I love your videos. I was a “Conventional Machinist” in my working life. I loved being in a “JOB SHOP”, every day brought new challenges, and different opportunities to make something cool. I really enjoyed using my Vertical Bridgeport Milling Machine!! I MISS it terribly!!
I've only removed one arbor from a chuck in my short life. It's a cute idea that all you need are those tapored wedges. In reality the distance between the back of the chuck and the shoulder on the arbor will dictate the thickness of the shim you will have to make. I had to make one in my case to get the wedges to exert just enough force without the force distorting the wedges. Nice video and use of Tom's video as comedy!
I’ve just restored a 20N Jacobs Super Chuck…10-25.5mm capacity…fitted with a Mt4-JT5 arbor. The chuck was quite rusty and rough looking round the tapered nose cone…The arbor was very damaged and heavily rusted, to the point where wedges could not be fitted… I first drilled a 12mm hole through the chuck body until I hit the arbor….then I used a 12mm drift and a lump hammer to knock out the arbor, which inside the chuck was luckily in perfect condition.. I managed to resurface the nose cone by turning on the lathe, using a carbide tipped tool and a diamond file….the cone is case hardened and it took some time…. I found a new arbor on EBay at a very reasonable price, fitted the chuck, and then spun it in the lathe and used emery cloth to remove the rust on the body…I then used a circular wire brush, which leaves a superior finish and gets in any small nooks and crannies that the emery didn’t reach…it has a micro planishing effect on the surface….. The chuck now looks like new…the jaws do have some minor marks on them, so I will first check for accuracy and grind if necessary…that is when I’ve found a Jacobs K5 chuck key at a reasonable price….the cheapest I’ve found on EBay is £25…it’s big!…. BTW…I paid £40 for the chuck….I saw it had potential…and I love restoring tools..
Thanks to both you and Tom L. I have one of those old ball bearing chucks to take apart and clean. I was surprised to see that with all of the other "neat" stuff you have, no press to be found!
Nice demo of taking apart a Jacob's chuck. A good vise can substitute for a big press in many cases. I was a bit concerned about putting pressure on the ends of the jaws. That puts a lot of pressure on that cast bearing race. Retracting the jaws lets you put the pressure directly on the chuck body, which is what needs to be pressed out.. Look online for [ pearl tweezers ] to hold those tiny balls securely. (The have little cups at the tips of the jaws to keep little round things from slipping away.) You can get rebuild kits (jaws and cast ring) for Jacob's chucks, but they are fairly pricey. A lot less than a new chuck, though.
Don't EVER press apart a Supper Chuck on the jaws! Use a socket or some other tool to press on the body. The second Supper Chuck I rebuilt was pressed on the jaws and I broke off the threads on the jaws and nut. This did not mater as the jaws needed to be replaced but it made gitting the chuck apart very difficult. I had to some cleanup with needle files to get the new jaws to work smoothly but in the it worked like new. Also I only use white lithium grease.
Kevin. I also told him at the start, but I have been "Shot Down In Flames" by several people including Dale as being wrong. They even pointed out to me that Jacobs website shows pressing directly on the jaws !!! I repaired these chucks for over 30 Years and never ever pressed on a jaw, but hey, some people will not be told. Hope you will not get "Told Off" to by all the know it all's on UA-cam.
Can you just wind the chuck so that the jaws are level with the nose, and then no one can complain as you are pressing on both body and jaws, but neither excessively?
Before putting it back on an arbor I suggest drilling a 3/8 hole thru the bottom. It makes future arbor removal a snap by being able to press thru the hole.
i have always drill a hole through the center of the chuck and pressed the arbor out that way. i couldn't believe how much trouble he was shaving for such a simple job
Wow you kept your cool with taking that chuck apart, I hope you turned a new shaft for it. It looks like you took a lot of material away when you cut that groove in it. Nice work!
I have a Jacobs chuck on a drill press I bought new in 1983. It's still doing fine and is smoother than the no-name chucks on my newer machines. Once every couple years I squirt some lube in the jaws.
OUCH!!! At 5:32 you got very lucky. Always retrack the chuck jaws all the way into the body before pressing the sleeve off of the body or you could damage the jaws.
I may have to consider doing that someday with some chucks for my father. Long ago a bottle of nitric acid was brought into my father's shop for storage, the cheap plastic cap on the bottle deteriorated and the nitric acid slowly evaporated. The unfortunate thing is the nitric acid vapors rusted tools though out the whole shop.
It picked up a bit of a wobble. The drills don’t center properly and I don’t have any idea how to make them center correctly. It’s given me years of good service with no trouble
I found a rust remover that works better than anything else I’ve tried, it is caller Metal Rescue by Workshop Hero, they also make a water base rust preventative that has been working very well for me also. They can be found on Amazon or at Home Depot. I think since you live in the Bay Area with all the fog and moisture in the air you might give some thought to using this stuff!
I was faced with removing a stubborn arbor like this from an old Jacob super check and I tried all the usual techniques but it wouldn't budge. I then clamped the arbor in a vice and applied some heat to the chuck while hitting the chuck with a soft mallet. Bingo! I couldn't believe how easy that worked.
OK, so the cookie sheets are brilliant, gotta get some for my shop now! But you need a selection of sardine cans, & tuna cans with magnets glued to the bottom for parts sorting as you disassemble!
Great video. I look for the discolored and slightly rusted Jacobs ball bearing chucks. Put in a little sweat equity, and a rebuilt kit, if necessary, and your bargain chuck is now a high dollar chuck.
Nice video. It seems to me though that you were using those wedges wrong. Instead if using the 90 degrees to each other, shouldn't they be 180. The tapered arms should ride on each other thereby increasing their thickness and exerting more pressure on the shaft. Much like adjustable parallels work. Thanks for sharing your talent.
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
So I have a 3/4 inch Jacobs chuck that's on a old drill that has enough torque to break arms n the chuck is set up tight from sitting for years n spending some time outside n pb blaster n liquid wrench have done nothing to free it up even with big ass pipe wrenches so what I'm wondering is that wd40 really that good to where it'll get my chuck moving so I can get inside of it n get it cleaned up
Nice video, looking forward to the jaw grinding, I've got a Jacobs chuck to restore, and this video popped up in my suggested! UA-cam being random! Just subscribed.
Guess this is the NEW style 14N as it has the bearing races? I had a different chuck that I though was good until tested in the mill (using both a 1/2 collet and then R8) and the run out was much more than expected about 9 thousands if I remember right. Did, or can you, test the run out on the one you did and post result. I really have little idea what to expect on used chucks, but 9 seems poor. Perhaps I should start looking for the jaw video you mentioned. Thanks,
If chucks are as easy to find as you say then I must be looking in the wrong places. I have been looking for a half inch chuck with a #2 MT without having to buy a new one.
I rebuilt one not too long ago, didn't have the wedges so drilled out the center and pressed the MT3 shaft out on my 20 ton press, it shot out sounding like a gun shot and I'm pretty sure I soiled my undies.
@@BuildSomthingCool hello, I'm from Belgium in Europe, good continuation in your project, it's always a pleasure to watch your work ... cordially Thierry.
Be sure you clean that cup out with some trichlor or brake clean, then rinse with diesel or kerosene and you'll be golden!! Before you use it for coffee that is..... I have that same drill press, and it looks just like your's.... I'll grab some of that super juice and give is whirl. Thanks for the info!!
Yikes!! "Trichlor"!!? We used to use it to clean aluminum after machining. Did a great job, however that stuff has been on the EPA "bad guy" list for years. Be careful with it and be sure to dispose of it properly. It has been linked to various cancers and is known to be one of the worst polluters of ground water there is. Bad stuff to have around the shop.
I don't know, I used to find the Build Something cool videos more interesting, but not so much any more. I think the videos are very well done - well produced, but certainly not very original. Someone levels a lathe, Dale levels a lathe. someone rebuilds a drill chuck, Dale rebuilds a drill chuck. Just getting fairly boring to be honest.
I recently used those same wedges to get a LoveJoy coupler off of a hydraulic pump. Tapped the wedges in there to put some good pressure on the coupler, walked to the tool chest and back and right when I get to the pump, the coupler pops off. I was like "wow, that was easy." Pick the coupler off the floor and it turns out the pump shaft &*^*%9 broke off and was still in the coupler. UGGGGHHHH!!!!
I would add, I found great more value in the creative videos, such as making the low speed grinder, grinder stands, weld cabinets, and metrology cabinet. It would be my preference to see more creative videos. I realize the video editing is intense and time consuming, but I wouldn't invest so much into basics like rebuilding a chuck, these videos seem plentiful already.
Hi SO, I agree with you. I’m trying to get back to Build projects, but with the move across the county and trying to set up a new shop I have had a hard time getting to do bigger projects. Soon that will be changing. I have a 2x72 belt grinder that I’m working on that will change how everyone looks at those machines😀😀😀. Thanks for your comment. 😀
I don't want to sound negative but I really don't like the video going fast in parts. It is too fast. I would really like to see what you are doing and with better close ups. Longer videos are fine with me. Just my opinion and not being negative.
Hi Pubster, Your not being negative, just honest. I wish I could make them longer, but I don’t have enough time. For every minute of video it takes me 2 hours of work. So a 10 minute video takes 20 hr to make. Most of that time is spent sitting at a computer, not working in the shop buildings something cool. Thanks for your coment😀
I put up one slide show on YT, and it took a couple hours to edit.... and I hate it. I tried a video, and it wasn't even amateur in quality. I've come to realize that you guys don't need to sleep.... ever. And you never spend any time outside of the shop or video editing. I think Abom and Mr. Pete are actually triplets.... Love your channel. Keep showing us your cool projects.
The Quid pro quo product placement can only hurt your credibility and the true value of what you’ve been doing with this channel. Please be a teacher not a salesman. Thanks for all the help.
I love your videos. I was a “Conventional Machinist” in my working life. I loved being in a “JOB SHOP”, every day brought new challenges, and different opportunities to make something cool. I really enjoyed using my Vertical Bridgeport Milling Machine!!
I MISS it terribly!!
Those Cookie trays are the handiest things. I have one and it has saved me hours of looking around on the shop floor.
I've only removed one arbor from a chuck in my short life. It's a cute idea that all you need are those tapored wedges. In reality the distance between the back of the chuck and the shoulder on the arbor will dictate the thickness of the shim you will have to make. I had to make one in my case to get the wedges to exert just enough force without the force distorting the wedges. Nice video and use of Tom's video as comedy!
Well said and could not agree more!
Nice job, glad you explained the failures. I'm looking forward to how you regrind the jaws.
I’ve just restored a 20N Jacobs Super Chuck…10-25.5mm capacity…fitted with a Mt4-JT5 arbor.
The chuck was quite rusty and rough looking round the tapered nose cone…The arbor was very damaged and heavily rusted, to the point where wedges could not be fitted…
I first drilled a 12mm hole through the chuck body until I hit the arbor….then I used a 12mm drift and a lump hammer to knock out the arbor, which inside the chuck was luckily in perfect condition..
I managed to resurface the nose cone by turning on the lathe, using a carbide tipped tool and a diamond file….the cone is case hardened and it took some time….
I found a new arbor on EBay at a very reasonable price, fitted the chuck, and then spun it in the lathe and used emery cloth to remove the rust on the body…I then used a circular wire brush, which leaves a superior finish and gets in any small nooks and crannies that the emery didn’t reach…it has a micro planishing effect on the surface…..
The chuck now looks like new…the jaws do have some minor marks on them, so I will first check for accuracy and grind if necessary…that is when I’ve found a Jacobs K5 chuck key at a reasonable price….the cheapest I’ve found on EBay is £25…it’s big!….
BTW…I paid £40 for the chuck….I saw it had potential…and I love restoring tools..
Thanks to both you and Tom L. I have one of those old ball bearing chucks to take apart and clean. I was surprised to see that with all of the other "neat" stuff you have, no press to be found!
I do have a new/used press, but it’s sit on a pallet in back in peaces.lol you will see it an up coming video.😀
Enjoyed Dale!
ATB, Robin
Nice demo of taking apart a Jacob's chuck. A good vise can substitute for a big press in many cases.
I was a bit concerned about putting pressure on the ends of the jaws. That puts a lot of pressure on that cast bearing race. Retracting the jaws lets you put the pressure directly on the chuck body, which is what needs to be pressed out..
Look online for [ pearl tweezers ] to hold those tiny balls securely. (The have little cups at the tips of the jaws to keep little round things from slipping away.)
You can get rebuild kits (jaws and cast ring) for Jacob's chucks, but they are fairly pricey. A lot less than a new chuck, though.
Starting to wonder. A jacobs chuck restoration, sporting a stylish black apron, level fetish. Dale whats going on over there at BSC?
All the best,
Tom
Just trying to be like my favorite UA-camr. I was going to shave my head and take a job at Princeton Labs, but Jen said that was going to far😂
He stole your apron
Sleep with one eye 👁 open Tom.......
Tom, don't forget he also moved cross country to be closer to you. Love both your guys channels.Gary
@@BuildSomthingCool underqualified to work at PL
Great vid Dale. Glad to see you looking settled in at the new shop.
Thanks, it feels good to start building something cool 😎
well done, Im a tool and die maker apprentice. Crazy to see the inside of a jacobs chuck
Uff, that's an incredible work!!!
Between Dale and Tom, I've learned a lot.
Don't EVER press apart a Supper Chuck on the jaws! Use a socket or some other tool to press on the body. The second Supper Chuck I rebuilt was pressed on the jaws and I broke off the threads on the jaws and nut. This did not mater as the jaws needed to be replaced but it made gitting the chuck apart very difficult. I had to some cleanup with needle files to get the new jaws to work smoothly but in the it worked like new. Also I only use white lithium grease.
Kevin. I also told him at the start, but I have been "Shot Down In Flames" by several people including Dale as being wrong. They even pointed out to me that Jacobs website shows pressing directly on the jaws !!! I repaired these chucks for over 30 Years and never ever pressed on a jaw, but hey, some people will not be told. Hope you will not get "Told Off" to by all the know it all's on UA-cam.
Can you just wind the chuck so that the jaws are level with the nose, and then no one can complain as you are pressing on both body and jaws, but neither excessively?
chucks are soo cheap nowadays but this was a great tutorial. im amazed by the keyless mt2 chuck i just got for 21 shipped.
I know, I have several of those chucks😀
Nice job. I’ll send mine to you right away 😜. Thanks for the video, JB San Diego
Gday Dale, nice restoration, now I know what to do with mine, thank you. ATB Matty🇦🇺
Well sometimes it just takes some persistence. Job well done. Thanks for sharing Dale.
Thanks for your nice comment :-)
Ah, c'mon. That chuck wasn't even rusty, just dirty. However, grinding the jaws in is something I'd love to see. :-)
Great video Dale, Got to love those Jacob Super Ball bearing Chucks!!!
I know, but all of mine are in bad shape, and all the jaws are bell mouthed. Now I need to learn how to grid jaws. 😀
@@BuildSomthingCool You got this buddy!
Before putting it back on an arbor I suggest drilling a 3/8 hole thru the bottom. It makes future arbor removal a snap by being able to press thru the hole.
i have always drill a hole through the center of the chuck and pressed the arbor out that way. i couldn't believe how much trouble he was shaving for such a simple job
Wow you kept your cool with taking that chuck apart, I hope you turned a new shaft for it. It looks like you took a lot of material away when you cut that groove in it. Nice work!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Still have not made a shaft for it. Because I have 3 more chucks to rebuild.
I have a Jacobs chuck on a drill press I bought new in 1983.
It's still doing fine and is smoother than the no-name chucks
on my newer machines. Once every couple years I squirt some
lube in the jaws.
Lindo seu Trabalho!! Parabéns!!!!
Loved the video.
Dale - good to see you restore the chuck. If not restored, the chuck would end up in trash.
OUCH!!! At 5:32 you got very lucky. Always retrack the chuck jaws all the way into the body before pressing the sleeve off of the body or you could damage the jaws.
Jacob tell you to run them out about halfway. If you don’t the last tooth on the jaws will be sheared off. I know this personality 😀😀
I'm planning on trying out the CRC stuff.
I have used it. I like The Wd40 more, and I can get most places I shop.
Great video
I may have to consider doing that someday with some chucks for my father. Long ago a bottle of nitric acid was brought into my father's shop for storage, the cheap plastic cap on the bottle deteriorated and the nitric acid slowly evaporated. The unfortunate thing is the nitric acid vapors rusted tools though out the whole shop.
That happen to me once. Even with a good cap it will still get out.
Awesome Dale. kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Love the channel and thanks for all the great informative videos!
You sir, need an Arbor press.
Nice content 😊
Had one,
Tried to change the arbour,
Had a tantrum,
Things happened,
Bought a new chuck.
Expensive tantrum, but then aren't they always expensive.
Like my dad used to say. I knew when to just call it a day and come back the next day ---- but I didn't!!!
Somebody I once knew gave me a drill press too, still have it in my shop today as well....needs a new chuck😁
Colin Emsley I forgot about the drill press I gave you. I’m sorry to here the chuck isn’t working. What happened to it?
It picked up a bit of a wobble. The drills don’t center properly and I don’t have any idea how to make them center correctly. It’s given me years of good service with no trouble
It would be interesting to see how you go about grinding in the drill chucks.
I found a rust remover that works better than anything else I’ve tried, it is caller Metal Rescue by Workshop Hero, they also make a water base rust preventative that has been working very well for me also. They can be found on Amazon or at Home Depot. I think since you live in the Bay Area with all the fog and moisture in the air you might give some thought to using this stuff!
I was faced with removing a stubborn arbor like this from an old Jacob super check and I tried all the usual techniques but it wouldn't budge. I then clamped the arbor in a vice and applied some heat to the chuck while hitting the chuck with a soft mallet. Bingo! I couldn't believe how easy that worked.
OK, so the cookie sheets are brilliant, gotta get some for my shop now! But you need a selection of sardine cans, & tuna cans with magnets glued to the bottom for parts sorting as you disassemble!
Great video. I look for the discolored and slightly rusted Jacobs ball bearing chucks. Put in a little sweat equity, and a rebuilt kit, if necessary, and your bargain chuck is now a high dollar chuck.
Where do you get a rebuild kit for a jacobs ball bearing Chuck. I have one that needs a new set of jaws but haven't been able to find them.
Where, what name is used when searching for the rebuild kits ?
TIA !
@@WeAreNotAlone69 McMaster Carr.
Try Jacobs Chuck rebuild.
Nice video. It seems to me though that you were using those wedges wrong. Instead if using the 90 degrees to each other, shouldn't they be 180. The tapered arms should ride on each other thereby increasing their thickness and exerting more pressure on the shaft. Much like adjustable parallels work. Thanks for sharing your talent.
Thanks for the comment Dave. I think I did but I can’t remember why it didn’t work. 🤔
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
What are the little black wedges you used to get the shaft out?
they're just called drill chuck wedges www.amazon.com/Wedge-Sets-Set-No-WEDGE/dp/B0067BSG9S
Ryan Thanks for replying. Don’t forget to mention they come in different sizes for different size chucks.
05:31 what kind of tool you used ??
So I have a 3/4 inch Jacobs chuck that's on a old drill that has enough torque to break arms n the chuck is set up tight from sitting for years n spending some time outside n pb blaster n liquid wrench have done nothing to free it up even with big ass pipe wrenches so what I'm wondering is that wd40 really that good to where it'll get my chuck moving so I can get inside of it n get it cleaned up
Nice video, looking forward to the jaw grinding, I've got a Jacobs chuck to restore, and this video popped up in my suggested! UA-cam being random! Just subscribed.
Guess this is the NEW style 14N as it has the bearing races? I had a different chuck that I though was good until tested in the mill (using both a 1/2 collet and then R8) and the run out was much more than expected about 9 thousands if I remember right. Did, or can you, test the run out on the one you did and post result. I really have little idea what to expect on used chucks, but 9 seems poor.
Perhaps I should start looking for the jaw video you mentioned.
Thanks,
Nice rebuild. Looks fabulous! Great video. Aloha : )
If chucks are as easy to find as you say then I must be looking in the wrong places. I have been looking for a half inch chuck with a #2 MT without having to buy a new one.
Looks a lot like my old Sears drill press...except mine has dual tables. Mine also has a taper fit arbor, but it also has screw lock collar.
I've also got an old Craftsman drill press, chuck has a threaded collar and the head has a split so quill clearance can be taken up. I like it.
Great job, sir! Any chance you'd say why you didn't use a press to disassemble and reassemble?
Video excitement.
@@paulcopeland9035 I'm hoping that by using a press, it's more efficient, however, by using a vise, it may simply be easier
@@Justone177 ....Yep, I understand. BTW, further into the comments he mentioned he has a press, but it is not set up yet in his new shop
I rebuilt one not too long ago, didn't have the wedges so drilled out the center and pressed the MT3 shaft out on my 20 ton press, it shot out sounding like a gun shot and I'm pretty sure I soiled my undies.
😂😂😂😂
excellente vidéo comme toujours 👍👌
What country are you in?
@@BuildSomthingCool hello, I'm from Belgium in Europe, good continuation in your project, it's always a pleasure to watch your work ... cordially Thierry.
Great video! Where did you get your apron from?
Be sure you clean that cup out with some trichlor or brake clean, then rinse with diesel or kerosene and you'll be golden!! Before you use it for coffee that is.....
I have that same drill press, and it looks just like your's.... I'll grab some of that super juice and give is whirl. Thanks for the info!!
I don’t need to clean the cup that’s what the coffee is for😉
Yikes!! "Trichlor"!!? We used to use it to clean aluminum after machining. Did a great job, however that stuff has been on the EPA "bad guy" list for years. Be careful with it and be sure to dispose of it properly. It has been linked to various cancers and is known to be one of the worst polluters of ground water there is. Bad stuff to have around the shop.
What is the capacity of the mug? it is not stated on the website.
8-12 ounce
You should do a colab with grind hard plumbing. They just got a lathe and they need someone to help them i think 👍😉
Holy random crossover buddy!!! GHPC FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually that was interesting. You certainly had a fight getting the little bugger apart.
Very cool restoration
I don't know, I used to find the Build Something cool videos more interesting, but not so much any more. I think the videos are very well done - well produced, but certainly not very original. Someone levels a lathe, Dale levels a lathe. someone rebuilds a drill chuck, Dale rebuilds a drill chuck. Just getting fairly boring to be honest.
I recently used those same wedges to get a LoveJoy coupler off of a hydraulic pump. Tapped the wedges in there to put some good pressure on the coupler, walked to the tool chest and back and right when I get to the pump, the coupler pops off. I was like "wow, that was easy." Pick the coupler off the floor and it turns out the pump shaft &*^*%9 broke off and was still in the coupler. UGGGGHHHH!!!!
Yup hammer was the way to go, I broke them jaws on the vise on the first try. Hammer on the second try pop it out.
tweezers and little balls, NICE
It's as if you moved and left your good content behind.... if Tom did the zombie chuck video what what posses you to make one of the same content...
If you are disappointed, I suggest you unsubscribe and get your money back. Oh,wait.....
@@paulcopeland9035 say whatever you will his channel isn't what it used to be, resorting to selling overpriced mugs and tshirts to stay afloat.
I would add, I found great more value in the creative videos, such as making the low speed grinder, grinder stands, weld cabinets, and metrology cabinet. It would be my preference to see more creative videos. I realize the video editing is intense and time consuming, but I wouldn't invest so much into basics like rebuilding a chuck, these videos seem plentiful already.
Hi SO, I agree with you. I’m trying to get back to Build projects, but with the move across the county and trying to set up a new shop I have had a hard time getting to do bigger projects. Soon that will be changing. I have a 2x72 belt grinder that I’m working on that will change how everyone looks at those machines😀😀😀. Thanks for your comment. 😀
haha snot rocket science i love that
Ha, that is what I did as well, make your own tool to remove it... through hammer didn't work - press did (or bench vice).
👍🏼
I don't want to sound negative but I really don't like the video going fast in parts. It is too fast. I would really like to see what you are doing and with better close ups. Longer videos are fine with me. Just my opinion and not being negative.
Hi Pubster, Your not being negative, just honest. I wish I could make them longer, but I don’t have enough time. For every minute of video it takes me 2 hours of work. So a 10 minute video takes 20 hr to make. Most of that time is spent sitting at a computer, not working in the shop buildings something cool. Thanks for your coment😀
I put up one slide show on YT, and it took a couple hours to edit.... and I hate it. I tried a video, and it wasn't even amateur in quality. I've come to realize that you guys don't need to sleep.... ever. And you never spend any time outside of the shop or video editing. I think Abom and Mr. Pete are actually triplets.... Love your channel. Keep showing us your cool projects.
Thanks for your comment and support 😀
Thanks for your reply Dale. I will keep watching your videos. I have been a subscriber from the start.
What happened I thought you had a press???
I gave the one away I had in Georga, and the one I just bought in California is still sitting on a pallet in pieces :-(
Spend $200.00. Get a 20 ton press from *arbor *reight. Or better yet look for one made in Taiwan.
or pick one up used from Craig's list, FB market place, or local classifieds. I agree a hydraulic press is well worth its shop space.
I had a coupon and got mine from HF for like $130. 20 ton, not the 12 ton.
Have a 12T from HF. Great tool.
He has a press, just not "installed" yet. Check out the comments. He explains.
why?
vel gert hjá þér vinur
The Quid pro quo product placement can only hurt your credibility and the true value of what you’ve been doing with this channel. Please be a teacher not a salesman. Thanks for all the help.