Just a tip for you Tom, as you discovered, trying to get those Carbys out and back in is a real bytch of a job on the DRZs but, you can make it ..slightly easier, if you first undo and remove the top bolt, that attaches the rear-subframe, to the mainframe, ie, the ‘horizontal’ bolt just behind the rear, of the fuel tank. That will then allow you to pull the sub-frame ‘rearwards’ which will result in ‘dropping’ the rear-subframe downwards by an inch or two, towards the top, of the rear tyre, which will help to ‘pull’ the airbox, away from the rear of the Carby, and gain you a bit more wriggle-room. Another way to do it is to leave the top sub-frame bolt, in place, and instead, remove the two bottom bolts, that attach the sub-frame, at the bottom, to the mainframe, just behind the foot-pegs, and then ‘lift’ the rear, of the sub-frame and ‘rotate’ it, ‘upwards’ by as much as you like to go, in fact, you can pull it all the way up until it’s almost vertical, which will pull the airbox, right away, from the rear of the Carby, and gain you ‘lots’ of wriggle room in the process. Cheers. 😉👍
Havent watched the whole video yet. But bet you its the float valve. I work on a ton of these bikes. I work for free so I always have one im working on for club members. Guy just bought a used 2008 SM with 2700 miles on it with extra set of dirt wheels all for $3000. Steal of a deal. But needed work. Oil had just as much gas as it did oil. Which told me bad float valve. Took massive work to even get it too come out. Corroded bad. Rebuilt carb noticing at some point someone did a jet kit, but didnt install the spacer on the needle so it was wobbling around a bunch and was stuck in the jet. Also he lost the ball bearing and spring that holds the choke it certain spots. As the choke would not stay out. Replaced that since I have 3 spares. This bike will rip when im done. Has MRD full exhaust as well. I have 53,000 miles on my heavily modded 2011 S model. Has been the most reliable bike I have owned in 35 years of riding.
Flooded those carbs leaving it on prime, gas is all gone. For the float bowl its good to replace the phillips head screws with some allen keyed ones. If you get a JD rebuild kit itncomes with them. 🎉 Good video!
Mainly the head gasket or the water pump. If it's running well, without any white smoke I'd probably skip the head gasket for now and head to the water pump. There's a seal or seals (mechanical seal and oil seal most likely) between the water and oil sides, which may have failed. I'd certainly not be running this engine at all and draining the coolant, discarding it, flushing the radiator completely clean along with the entire cooling system circuit; and figuring out the issue. If it were me, I'd be heading to the water pump and checking that first. Cheers.
It helps to heat the rubber intake from the air filter.. Be carful not to over heat the rubber.. Much easier to remove the carb especially in a cold garage in the winter..
Yea, it does. I have done it before and especially works on these single carbs, where you don't have to deal with multiple carb holders. These thumpers have large carb bores thus fat holders.
Without looking at part 2, I bet the idle needs to be higher. BTW, it would help to have the link to part 2 in the description so we don't have to go hunting for it.
Couldn't tell you, this is an older video. Just look online and Google it, I am sure that's what I did. Those links never stay active for long anyway, you'll need to find a good one.
decent bike, which all riders know, needed a 6 speed transmission, properly spaced. Suzuki could make it a 6 speed, but they simply don't understand motorcycling enough to have spaced the gearing correctly.
@@HelloThere-ez6rb do you own one? mine has 26k miles. i know something about them. the stock petcock fails and causes the carb to fill to overflowing and then it runs into the piston causing vapor lock. i almost burned to death as a result. the carb float bowl is notorious for not shutting off the gas. rebuild kits dont work all the time. over the winter my one year old suzuki vacuum petcock failed and 4 gallons of gas went into the engine and completely displaced all the oil. i ran the engine for 35 seconds before draining the oil revealed that all the oil was gone and on my shed floor!! How could that even happen? And then there is the obvious need of a 6th gear, but not the same spread of gearing, NO, it needs a lower first gear and then 4th, 5th and the new 6th gear to be end up being so tall that the bike can easily maintain 80mph. that would allow you to change the front and rear sprockets, allowing for a confidence inspiring first gear and a nice tall final gear for cruising. the bike gets good mileage, i dont know if fuel injection would make it worse. most every bike i hear that went from carb to FE always suffers major loss in gas mileage. So, those are my gripes. and i'm not the only one.
Just a tip for you Tom, as you discovered, trying to get those Carbys out and back in is a real bytch of a job on the DRZs but, you can make it ..slightly easier, if you first undo and remove the top bolt, that attaches the rear-subframe, to the mainframe, ie, the ‘horizontal’ bolt just behind the rear, of the fuel tank.
That will then allow you to pull the sub-frame ‘rearwards’ which will result in ‘dropping’ the rear-subframe downwards by an inch or two, towards the top, of the rear tyre, which will help to ‘pull’ the airbox, away from the rear of the Carby, and gain you a bit more wriggle-room.
Another way to do it is to leave the top sub-frame bolt, in place, and instead, remove the two bottom bolts, that attach the sub-frame, at the bottom, to the mainframe, just behind the foot-pegs, and then ‘lift’ the rear, of the sub-frame and ‘rotate’ it, ‘upwards’ by as much as you like to go, in fact, you can pull it all the way up until it’s almost vertical, which will pull the airbox, right away, from the rear of the Carby, and gain you ‘lots’ of wriggle room in the process. Cheers. 😉👍
Yep. Just like on the CRF’s. Cheers.
Thanks for the excellent diagnostics...
Havent watched the whole video yet. But bet you its the float valve. I work on a ton of these bikes. I work for free so I always have one im working on for club members. Guy just bought a used 2008 SM with 2700 miles on it with extra set of dirt wheels all for $3000. Steal of a deal. But needed work. Oil had just as much gas as it did oil. Which told me bad float valve. Took massive work to even get it too come out. Corroded bad. Rebuilt carb noticing at some point someone did a jet kit, but didnt install the spacer on the needle so it was wobbling around a bunch and was stuck in the jet. Also he lost the ball bearing and spring that holds the choke it certain spots. As the choke would not stay out. Replaced that since I have 3 spares. This bike will rip when im done. Has MRD full exhaust as well. I have 53,000 miles on my heavily modded 2011 S model. Has been the most reliable bike I have owned in 35 years of riding.
Flooded those carbs leaving it on prime, gas is all gone. For the float bowl its good to replace the phillips head screws with some allen keyed ones. If you get a JD rebuild kit itncomes with them. 🎉 Good video!
They’re actually not Phillips head, they’re JIS (Japanese industry standard) which is why they’re so easy to strip with a Phillips head.
Hi thanks for your video its help me a lot i have a question what and where did you buy the jet kit? Thank you in advance
I did what you said not to do, still not sure if the larger bore jet is the main or the enricher jet. Great video
Main
Cool show. Any tip on what might be the cause of oil water mix ..have noticed milk like mixture in the radiator. Regards from 🇰🇪
Mainly the head gasket or the water pump. If it's running well, without any white smoke I'd probably skip the head gasket for now and head to the water pump. There's a seal or seals (mechanical seal and oil seal most likely) between the water and oil sides, which may have failed. I'd certainly not be running this engine at all and draining the coolant, discarding it, flushing the radiator completely clean along with the entire cooling system circuit; and figuring out the issue. If it were me, I'd be heading to the water pump and checking that first. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL Thank you 🙏
i always replace the 4 JIS screws on the bottom of the float bowl with metric allen screws. you can always coax them out.
It helps to heat the rubber intake from the air filter.. Be carful not to over heat the rubber.. Much easier to remove the carb especially in a cold garage in the winter..
Yea, it does. I have done it before and especially works on these single carbs, where you don't have to deal with multiple carb holders. These thumpers have large carb bores thus fat holders.
Without looking at part 2, I bet the idle needs to be higher. BTW, it would help to have the link to part 2 in the description so we don't have to go hunting for it.
Thanks for the great content keep up the great work 👍
When you use the ultrasonic what fluid do you use to soak the parts in ?
water and simple green. 80% water 20% cleaner. So for a 1 liter amount, 200ml's of cleaner.
@@MotoRestoFL thank you so much
Loved the music segment
Hello, what is the link you use to get to the service manual?
Couldn't tell you, this is an older video. Just look online and Google it, I am sure that's what I did. Those links never stay active for long anyway, you'll need to find a good one.
decent bike, which all riders know, needed a 6 speed transmission, properly spaced. Suzuki could make it a 6 speed, but they simply don't understand motorcycling enough to have spaced the gearing correctly.
Suzuki that makes iconic bikes, such as the unchanged DRZ, doesn't understand motorcycles enough? 😂😂😂😂😂😂 ok....
@@HelloThere-ez6rb do you own one? mine has 26k miles. i know something about them. the stock petcock fails and causes the carb to fill to overflowing and then it runs into the piston causing vapor lock. i almost burned to death as a result. the carb float bowl is notorious for not shutting off the gas. rebuild kits dont work all the time. over the winter my one year old suzuki vacuum petcock failed and 4 gallons of gas went into the engine and completely displaced all the oil. i ran the engine for 35 seconds before draining the oil revealed that all the oil was gone and on my shed floor!! How could that even happen? And then there is the obvious need of a 6th gear, but not the same spread of gearing, NO, it needs a lower first gear and then 4th, 5th and the new 6th gear to be end up being so tall that the bike can easily maintain 80mph. that would allow you to change the front and rear sprockets, allowing for a confidence inspiring first gear and a nice tall final gear for cruising. the bike gets good mileage, i dont know if fuel injection would make it worse. most every bike i hear that went from carb to FE always suffers major loss in gas mileage. So, those are my gripes. and i'm not the only one.
I’ll never think my carbs are hard to get in or out again (VF750f).
So, it was b battery thing then.
when a bike wont start, trust me, jiggle the throttle a little. might start.