Thank you for your tips. I myself tried the sand propagation method as you described it and it worked a 100%. Now I`ve got over 80 baby fig trees. I love your work and your videos. Thanks from Austria.
Your best one so far! Thank you! 🙏 you are very generous to provide this. I’m almost 80 years old and have been rooting cuttings since I was a child. My career as a research engineer has taught me that development of any kind can be a lonely place with the naysayers barking at you. Right now I’m rooting bougainvillea, plumeria, oranges, and roses. You are bringing new technology to the world! Keep your chin up and keep going and growing.
Spot on! I just took 180 fig cutting yesterday, they are in the fridge right now. Planning to prop them in groups of 50 or so using the sand method. Thanks for the vid!
Hey, I know I was one of those impatient first timers....and you are right about time....we must work with the natural laws of the harvest!!! Thanks for that reminder 👍 I will keep you posted and thanks for giving another way to look at what we're doing ie opening it 20 times a day Any ways Thanks for all your efforts to help us😁 Very grateful!!! Stay with us
Hello again, today is January 17th Just an update. No complaints, just info. I am getting signs of growth on the cuttings. However, only from the stubs of branches, but no sign of roots at either end of the cuttings... might be an issue with the cuttings.... don't know. I've started another container with 3 different fruits about a week ago. Branch stubs are already sprouting. I would like to send you images for your comments. I do believe your method works... just not sure if I'm doing anything wrong here. The newer batch I just mentioned of course, needs more time, and hopefully this works out as planned and not concerned about it at the moment. It's about the first batch I am hoping to get your comments on. If there's a way to send you images and you could have a look would be greatly appreciated Thanks Mike Innisfil Ontario
Added video shot of my rooting box- Just wanted to share current status since Jan 12 peach branches... appreciate your comments or thoughts. Two seem to be starting root. The others did earlier but turned brown and appeared to stop... not sure what is going on Thanks Mike
I have a “volunteer” fig tree growing right up the middle of a tall grapefruit tree. It’s about 10’ tall. I took 4-node cuttings from a side branch, trimmed the large green leaves, and placed them to root in your sand propagation method. YeeHaa! That was 10 days ago and I see roots! My first attempt and I love it! Thank you! Reg
Fig will root laying on the ground and root quickly! Probably the easiest to get to grow out of anything! Don't compare fig to any other cuttings you will be disappointed!
Have you ever experimented with misting them with liquid seaweed instead of water? A side by side experiment would be cool to try to see which gets better root growth.
I don't think you would want to add nutrients! Not sure if liquid seaweed has nutrients but if it does don't use it, you need neutral medium to propagate ( sand)! Can't stress this enough! Don't fertilize cuttings!
I have a wood frame that is half full of sand with a glass top and I propagate my landscaping plants I stick them in midsummer and as long as I see moisture on the top I leave them alone until spring . You can’t make them grow on your schedule they just do what they do
What kind of landscape plants?? Im curious because the cost of a plant at the nursery is so expensive it makes me mad! I tried to propagate black and blue salvia....only one in 24 has grown and not sure now how to keep it alive!
@@dvssayer5621 I have some I don’t have any idea what they are but the ones I know are spiraea,blueberry,hydrangeas five different varieties,weigla,honeysuckle vine I worked for a school for a year before I retired and my buddy worked in the grounds department he was out trimming plants and I got him to bring me a couple of bags. I was able to get some good cuttings . In the spring I pot them up and in the summer I trim the plants in my yard and it all starts over I have seen landscaping companies in store parking lots and they are happy to give you some cuttings and I never buy a plant that doesn’t need a little trimming 😊
We have this video showing the step by step process. You just continue spraying it every so often and in a few weeks you have roots and up pot into soil. ua-cam.com/video/QKZYmz6k0go/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PlantFanatics
Coming up on 3 weeks now. About 110 fig cuttings, all shapes and sizes. On 78 degree heat mats. Two cuttings molded, one rotted. Not a single root. Most of the cuttings were in a damp paper towel for two weeks before going on the sand bed. They've formed callus, but no lenticels visible to my crappy vision, and no sign of a single root. So much patience is required...
Thanks for the sand propagation tips! I mail-ordered a Black Madeira KK, a Italian 258, and 5 Col de Dame Noir fig cuttings. Hope this sand technique works.
I discovered a fig tree growing volunteer right in the middle of a large grapefruit tree in my orchard. After seeing this video I prepared cuttings and followed your process. WOW! After only 20 days I have roots all over! 🎉 The cuttings I purchased from you are ALSO rooting!
Just a heads up on this method.. You have to slowly acclimate them to less humidity. I do this with potting soil and lightly buried don't have to spray them if water content is right from beginning.
Very good method for Figo Preto or black madeira. I started propagate 10 Figo Preto cuttngs at 12th November and at 22 November I had the first roots by one and I planted it in transparent plastic cup 0.3 L with normal soil 30 % sand, 30% gardenground and 30% pinebark humus at 12th Dezember were 9 of 10 cuttngs rooted. Only 1 cutting took longer to 7th January because he was very thin. As rooting hormon I took honey (1 teaspooon honey in 0,5 L warm water) and put the cuttings for 24 hours in this honey water. If cuttings got mold I put cinamon powder. This method with play sand in plastic Box is the best for me, better than paper towels.
I presently have a few fig cuttings on 11.5 months now. They are still as fresh and alive as when I got them. I just had 2 send up leaves after 10.5 months, so some just take longer than others!
Correct! Though I have to say that’s a long time for cuttings to propagate even for the most patient individual. You may consider grafting whatever plant it is you’re rooting.
@@PlantFanatics You are not going to believe this, but I just checked my old cuttings again this evening while watering them, and there is a brand new one that just in the last day popped out a couple tiny, baby leaves! I struck it on 2/19/23, just over a year ago! It is pencil thick, 9" in length with 3 nodes. It was not a tip cutting and I had the top cut wrapped in parafilm the whole time. I did change one thing from my norm a couple months ago. I never fertilized unrooted cuttings. If it had no leaves and I could not see any roots in the clear cup, it did not get fertilizer, as it was considered to be a waste. But since these cuttings have sat there for so long, not dying, not growing, not changing, I thought I might try something different. They are obviously metabolizing the water somehow or else they would have dried out long ago. So half the indoor strength miracle grow became their regular Sunday feeding routine. I have another one I struck 2/18/23 that I had put in my "probably dead" section as it did not look much alive, ("mostly dead" as Miracle Max said in The Princess Bride) that just tonight I found a 4" beautiful white root growing around the plastic cup. This one is pen sized, 8.75", 4 nodes and parafilm on the top cut. So while yes, grafting would have given me a nearly year head start, I just never figured it would take so long when I struck them. After that, life went on with so many other things that grafting did not become an option ever thought of.
I do this with dormant second year grape canes. They take months. Patients folks. Sand method is also an excellent way to start sweet potatoes. Just bury a whole organic one half deep and park it in a sunny window. My storage tote with two taters looks like a jungle after two months. The whole vines are root covered.
Haters gonna hate lol. Don’t worry about them. I propagate for a living and hardwood cuttings no matter what take 4 months to root out . Soft wood 4-6 weeks. Takes time, just stick and wait lol. Thanks for sharing
@@mariomene2051yes typically with that genus/group of plants/trees typically are incredulously hard to propagate from cutting if it's even possible at all so the best way to propagate them is to dig up some large thick roots from the tree and then graft branches onto those roots called a rootstock cutting. And it's not just stone fruit trees that are almost impossible to propagate its almost all common fruit trees like apples avocado's citrus
This method works so well. I put them on top of fridge and open once a day and mist every couple of days . The roots shoot out all over r the place with the fig cuttings. Currently trying oleander and rose cuttings .
Love your tactic and directness ! I was able to get a Myers and fig going using root starter and soil ( mixed with perlite) but I’m so excited to give this method a try as well . Thank you for all the informative instructions 😊
Hello! Just swinging by to ask a question. First and foremost this rooting method is excellent. If you’re impatient like myself do not skip out on the heat mat. Vivosun makes a great mat and you can purchase separately their temperature probe that will consistently keep the temperature around 75°, which is optimal. Now, for my question, do you have any special recommendations for planting the newly rooted cuttings? Or is it just as simple as putting it in potting soil and setting it in the sun? Thanks!
I'd love to hear your take on the significance of a heat mat vs no heat mat. None the less, great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge with the general public.
You must also tell us what options are available, such as rooting hormone, which dip n grow is not available in my country,, and also other than this sand, what can we use? Is it in the dark or is it better in the light? It must be more specific so that we avoid mistakes as much as possible.
We have many many videos in our profile pertaining to all of this subject matter. Probably more than most of my followers would like. But any rooting hormone you can get will be fine. Sand is a must for this method. You could use river sand as opposed to playsand. No beach sand though. No light until after they root.
Can you suggest a few varieties of figs & mulberries which would fruit & flourish in the Tropics? And would you sell the cuttings for those suggested varieties as well?
Dude I’m so stoked to try this method out before spring. Took a bunch of cuttings from my Chicago Hardy a couple weeks back. Have them chilling in the fridge will early spring. Thanks for the advise brotha man
I have been experimenting with sand propagation for a couple years now. I agree, sand is quicker at rooting, but there are variables to it. For instance, you propagate in an open, large Garage area guessing your humidity level is around 30 to 40%, whereas I do it in a smaller GreenHouse with humidity in the 80 to 85% range. Since sand attracts moisture, i I let my bins sit for 2 months, the sand will attract enough water to literally cover the sand in standing water. I usually propagate my cuttings till I see root callous or very small roots, then transfer to soil. But there is a failure rate doing that. I have thought about leaving them in the sand till they get massive roots, but myself, as with most of your viewers, we propagate multiple varieties at one time, with different rooting times. I don't want to disturb the sand removing a cutting variety with massive roots, if it's next to a variety that is slower to root as it may kill it. Whats your suggestion on that? Would love to see a video of up potting these cutting to see your method. By the way, non of what I say should be construed as bashing at all. I agree with this method, use this method, just don't have the success when it comes to up potting. I would like to learn if there is such a thing as to early to up pot, or too late to up pot......
What has really helped me is to 'transfer to icu'😂 after up potting into potting soil from sand propagation. This entails moving the pot to Northside of my shed. I place the recently uppotted cutting in a 10-20 tray and I water from the bottom. I don't go crazy with the watering, perhaps just 2 in high in the 1020 tray. If the plant really looks terrible, I might tie an opaque grocery bag over it. I mentally put a note in my head that when I round on my new plants I stopped by the shed. Add water, take the bag off, inspect etc. I keep the plant in 'ICU' for a week and a half. If I see new growth push out and the plant looks healthy I rotate to it's spot in my backyard. Just sharing what works for me, cheers! Happy growing and happy holidays 😊
Any number of things could be happening here… For example, do you keep it in the same 80% humidity in your greenhouse after potting up or move it to a place with less humidity? If so, try keeping it in similar humidity levels and gradually reducing it. Do you use soil with compost in it or a potting mix? The compost could attract mold or bacteria in such a humid environment. Try an inert potting mix till you have sufficient growth then fertilize with slow release. Do they shrivel up and die? Do they go black from the bottom or the top? All these will give you hints on what’s going wrong.
@@PlantFanatics Absolutely, thank you for the response! I'll try this method one of these days, I saw a guy rooting a one node fig plant using this method!
I personally know people who use this method for roses with success. But I myself am not a rose person and therefore don’t qualify myself as the best source of knowledge in rose propagation. Light is unnecessary in propagation until there is leaf formation. I do not use peat moss as a rooting substrate because gnats love it. After all, most potting mixes utilize peat as their main substrate makeup.
I planter a black mission fig last year about this time and yesterday discovered that something girded it 100% at the base just above the graft. I hope it will come back. I should have put a screen around the trunk. hind sight is 20/20
Absolutely. Of course this is a consequence of modern conveniences. But plants have their own timelines. The gardener has to mold to its pace, not the other way around.
Thanks for your videos. I have a few fig cuttings i am waiting on to root with this method. It’s been 6 weeks, no sign of roots so far. I do see lots of condensation drops forming under the lid though. Is it too humid maybe? If sprayed once a week at the beginning now do not spray
I watched one of your other videos where you cut the original tree down to small nubs, does that original tree grow quick enough to fruit in the summer? We always pull our trees over and cover them with carpet and tarp to get through the winter.
I’m giving it a try with my Smith, Black Madeira and an unknown fig cutting I took from my son‘s plant. I think part of the upset you’re seeing comes from the fact that your original video says that you got roots in one week. That’s not the common experience for most of us. Maybe you should edit the video to reset the expectations
I’m giving it a try with my Smith, Black Madeira and an unknown fig cutting I took from my son‘s plant. I think part of the upset you’re seeing comes from the fact that your original video says that you got roots in one week. That’s not the common experience for most of us. Maybe you should edit the video to reset the expectations
@@PlantFanatics Jujube are famous for being very difficult to root. If someone can have a method that's proven to have above 90% success rate, it would change jujube rooting history.
Nice video sir. Thanks for the info. If you wouldnt mind giving me a few minutes of your time. Do you think this method would also work with perlite? And would i be able to stick it vertically so i can get the roots to sprout on the bottom
Yes, it will work with perlite, no problem. You can stick them up and down, but it’s the humidity that causes roots to form. Dip the end you want to root in a nice rooting hormone and you’ll get the to form wherever you want, regardless if they are upright or not.
I’ve never thought of putting the cuttings on their side and on top of the sand like that. This is brilliant! 👍 I’m going to try this, just to try it lol. Looks fun. I’ve used sand in a dome before but I was sticking them in the sand standing up. And I was using the bigger containers and lining them up like soldiers. It works too but this method will put my smaller containers to work. Thanks for the tip! Cheers!
Thanks for the video. I’ve tried to root cuttings several times and I’ve had poor success, even with elderberry which should be able to root in just water! But I’m trying again with your method. Question: does the time of year that you take the dog cuttings make a big difference? I’m guessing that if the plant is dormant when you take the cuttings then it will be a little longer for them to wake up, and maybe lower success rates?
Hi there! I was wondering do you shut the Tupperware lid completely or just set it on top? I was thinking air tight was not correct so i just laid the lid on top and pressed one corner down. Its a little thing but could be important. Also thank you for the encouragement because none of my fruit trees got any fruit after 3 yrs....got to be patient😊
Thanks for watching! Yes, the containers are closed all the way. The thing with these bins is that even when they are closed, there’s still gaps around the edges. It’s not a perfect seal. But we want controlled humidity levels by using a spray bottle. Don’t over water.
Just One Question. I Know That Fig Trees Root In Play Sand In Containers But What About Other Fruit Trees Such As Apple, Plum, Apricot, Peach, Nectarine, Cherry,Etc.? 🤔 Do You Know If They Will Too?
Hi my friend, can you ship any of those cutting ✂️ to Thailand. . Dhl can work, i believe in the sand, method, i used to use soil, but its safer to use Sand
Love the video. You got a new subscriber here friend! I definitely will be trying this out and from what I can tell, one will be able to potentially get head start in the spring and what a wonderful thing to do in the winter time while you're waiting a month or two for your roots to develop versus waiting quite a bit longer if the cuttings are outside, which is my method. It takes awhile to warm up outside. Cool method and thank you for sharing; people hate because it's either to new and now the old way or too damn impatient 😂
Question; if you are laying down the stems like that couldn't the top of the stems root just as the bottoms? When both ends do (or just the top) root what do you do? just tear off the roots on the top?
The driving force of rooting at the bottom of the cuttings is the rooting hormone. The roots will form faster wherever the hormone is. In the rare occurrence of upper roots, simply remove them once potted or let them dry and whither on their own. No big deal.
This isint about rooting figs but just wondering if you grow LSU Purple fig I am thinking about growing it, if so how well does that variety do and taste
How many other varieties if plants (besides figs) have you successfully rooted cutting like this.? And which varieties of plants have been your most successful?
My fig cuttings rooted ridiculously fast in sand and now it’s still too cold . Will they be ok if I pot them up and leave them growing in basement for the meantime?? Basement remains above 65 degrees but no sun only a bright artificial light 💡
Thanks for the video. Can you help me with varieties of seeds from your country. I want to try them in my country but I need seeds not cuttings or seedlings.
Chad, any comments about leafy growth with no rooting taking place? Many times my cuttings start developing leafs before rooting and typically end up dying back.
This can happen from time to time. I’ve definitely had it happen. I find that once the roots do develop and I pot them up, new growth occurs and they end up just fine.
The temperature matters for this method... as long as you understand that you can start at any time. Assume 3-6 weeks to root, and have a space ready for them when it's time to pot up. Good luck
I only use coarse sand, no bacteria or fungus. Clean the cuttings in rubbing alcohol or a fungicide. I don’t trust dirt for rooting too much chance in rot and fungus not enough drainage.
We use this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B08NB4PX9Y?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzdan0855a-20&creativeASIN=B08NB4PX9Y&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1ELBYSYL37T8X&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfplantfanatics_9EYAKBGK6QAN772490Z6_asin
I typically remove them once the roots get 2-3 inches long. You should be able to pull the cuttings out and the roots are strong enough to take it. Some of that just comes with experience. Once you know you know.
Apple tree seeds are easy to start so you can easily grow some for rootstock and might get a good variety on that, then learn how to graft your cuttings onto it. If you're buying apples from the supermarket I recommend Pink Lady/Cripp's Pink, delicious, floral with a nice sweet / tart acid balance. Puts other varieties like Honeycrisp, Gala etc. to shame.
The trouble with this method is the transplanting. Most people will hurt badly the fragile roots when picking from the box. The stress on the cuttings is huge. Few will survive.
I'm trying this method for the first time and am having a problem with mold. I've used a very weak bleach spray and H2O2 spray, but it keeps coming back.
I always use isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle. I then let the cuttings air dry. After they dry I mist them again with water and close the lid. If your cuttings have mold on them the thing to do moving forward is make sure your pre-washing is on point before the rooting process ever begins. Wash them with a clean sponge in warm water with dish soap. That pretty much always does the trick for me.
Question: now that my cuttings are rooting at multiple nodes in the horizontal position; how should I plant them in my pots? Vertically? How many roots do I need before potting? Thank you!
Fig roots tend to be more shallow than deep so if you have the space I would plant them horizontally. How many roots you would need before potting would depend on the cutting size, the humidity, temperature, airflow, sunlight etc. in the environment they're potted in, etc. The more roots they have the more water they can uptake so be patient because with too little roots and too much heat, airflow, low humidity and the other factors, if you put them in an environment like that for too long they could die. You want to slowly introduce them to new environments over a week or so to be safe, start with an hour the first day then bring them back to a safe spot, and increase by an hour each day. If you have a mother tree you can get an endless supply of cuttings from do your own experiments with how little roots you can have and still safely pot them up.
I'm a Japanese person who always watches videos.
I tried using your video as a reference.
I think your method is excellent for rooting.
Thanks for the comment!
Koneechiwa! Sorry if I spelled this wrong 😊
@@cinderellie8
Konnichiwa! Dear plant lovers,😄
@@niconico39tank 😃😄🥰
Sugoi
Thank you for your tips. I myself tried the sand propagation method as you described it and it worked a 100%. Now I`ve got over 80 baby fig trees. I love your work and your videos. Thanks from Austria.
I’m so glad this content could help you be successful in your propagation journey! Good luck!
Your best one so far! Thank you! 🙏 you are very generous to provide this. I’m almost 80 years old and have been rooting cuttings since I was a child. My career as a research engineer has taught me that development of any kind can be a lonely place with the naysayers barking at you. Right now I’m rooting bougainvillea, plumeria, oranges, and roses. You are bringing new technology to the world! Keep your chin up and keep going and growing.
Spot on! I just took 180 fig cutting yesterday, they are in the fridge right now. Planning to prop them in groups of 50 or so using the sand method. Thanks for the vid!
Hey, I know I was one of those impatient first timers....and you are right about time....we must work with the natural laws of the harvest!!! Thanks for that reminder 👍 I will keep you posted and thanks for giving another way to look at what we're doing ie opening it 20 times a day
Any ways
Thanks for all your efforts to help us😁
Very grateful!!! Stay with us
Thanks for the kind words!!
Hello again, today is January 17th
Just an update. No complaints, just info. I am getting signs of growth on the cuttings. However, only from the stubs of branches, but no sign of roots at either end of the cuttings... might be an issue with the cuttings.... don't know. I've started another container with 3 different fruits about a week ago. Branch stubs are already sprouting. I would like to send you images for your comments. I do believe your method works... just not sure if I'm doing anything wrong here. The newer batch I just mentioned of course, needs more time, and hopefully this works out as planned and not concerned about it at the moment. It's about the first batch I am hoping to get your comments on. If there's a way to send you images and you could have a look would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Mike
Innisfil Ontario
Added video shot of my rooting box-
Just wanted to share current status since Jan 12 peach branches... appreciate your comments or thoughts. Two seem to be starting root. The others did earlier but turned brown and appeared to stop... not sure what is going on
Thanks
Mike
I love your approach on "just be patient" reality is hard swallow. Thank you for this new method. I can't wait to try it.
I have a “volunteer” fig tree growing right up the middle of a tall grapefruit tree. It’s about 10’ tall. I took 4-node cuttings from a side branch, trimmed the large green leaves, and placed them to root in your sand propagation method. YeeHaa! That was 10 days ago and I see roots! My first attempt and I love it! Thank you!
Reg
Fig will root laying on the ground and root quickly! Probably the easiest to get to grow out of anything! Don't compare fig to any other cuttings you will be disappointed!
Figs are known to be easy to root.
Have you ever experimented with misting them with liquid seaweed instead of water? A side by side experiment would be cool to try to see which gets better root growth.
We are wanting to do some experiments so we’ll keep this in mind!
I don't think you would want to add nutrients! Not sure if liquid seaweed has nutrients but if it does don't use it, you need neutral medium to propagate ( sand)! Can't stress this enough! Don't fertilize cuttings!
I have a wood frame that is half full of sand with a glass top and I propagate my landscaping plants I stick them in midsummer and as long as I see moisture on the top I leave them alone until spring . You can’t make them grow on your schedule they just do what they do
What kind of landscape plants?? Im curious because the cost of a plant at the nursery is so expensive it makes me mad! I tried to propagate black and blue salvia....only one in 24 has grown and not sure now how to keep it alive!
@@dvssayer5621 I have some I don’t have any idea what they are but the ones I know are spiraea,blueberry,hydrangeas five different varieties,weigla,honeysuckle vine
I worked for a school for a year before I retired and my buddy worked in the grounds department he was out trimming plants and I got him to bring me a couple of bags. I was able to get some good cuttings .
In the spring I pot them up and in the summer I trim the plants in my yard and it all starts over
I have seen landscaping companies in store parking lots and they are happy to give you some cuttings and I never buy a plant that doesn’t need a little trimming 😊
Now we need a video of you actually putting them in media & showing how to continue growing them to keep rooting & growing leaves.
We have this video showing the step by step process. You just continue spraying it every so often and in a few weeks you have roots and up pot into soil. ua-cam.com/video/QKZYmz6k0go/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PlantFanatics
Liked and saved.👍
The temperature was the most important item.😊
Coming up on 3 weeks now. About 110 fig cuttings, all shapes and sizes. On 78 degree heat mats. Two cuttings molded, one rotted. Not a single root. Most of the cuttings were in a damp paper towel for two weeks before going on the sand bed. They've formed callus, but no lenticels visible to my crappy vision, and no sign of a single root. So much patience is required...
And at 4 months, how many rooted? Let me guess, in the high humidity bins, they all rotted.
Thanks for the sand propagation tips! I mail-ordered a Black Madeira KK, a Italian 258, and 5 Col de Dame Noir fig cuttings. Hope this sand technique works.
I am using this method currently and am VERY happy with it.
I discovered a fig tree growing volunteer right in the middle of a large grapefruit tree in my orchard. After seeing this video I prepared cuttings and followed your process. WOW! After only 20 days I have roots all over! 🎉 The cuttings I purchased from you are ALSO rooting!
Just a heads up on this method..
You have to slowly acclimate them to less humidity. I do this with potting soil and lightly buried don't have to spray them if water content is right from beginning.
Very good method for Figo Preto or black madeira. I started propagate 10 Figo Preto cuttngs at 12th November and at 22 November I had the first roots by one and I planted it in transparent plastic cup 0.3 L with normal soil 30 % sand, 30% gardenground and 30% pinebark humus at 12th Dezember were 9 of 10 cuttngs rooted. Only 1 cutting took longer to 7th January because he was very thin. As rooting hormon I took honey (1 teaspooon honey in 0,5 L warm water) and put the cuttings for 24 hours in this honey water. If cuttings got mold I put cinamon powder. This method with play sand in plastic Box is the best for me, better than paper towels.
I tried all the different ways. This is far best so far based on my experience.. Thank you..
I presently have a few fig cuttings on 11.5 months now. They are still as fresh and alive as when I got them. I just had 2 send up leaves after 10.5 months, so some just take longer than others!
Correct! Though I have to say that’s a long time for cuttings to propagate even for the most patient individual. You may consider grafting whatever plant it is you’re rooting.
@@PlantFanatics You are not going to believe this, but I just checked my old cuttings again this evening while watering them, and there is a brand new one that just in the last day popped out a couple tiny, baby leaves! I struck it on 2/19/23, just over a year ago! It is pencil thick, 9" in length with 3 nodes. It was not a tip cutting and I had the top cut wrapped in parafilm the whole time.
I did change one thing from my norm a couple months ago. I never fertilized unrooted cuttings. If it had no leaves and I could not see any roots in the clear cup, it did not get fertilizer, as it was considered to be a waste. But since these cuttings have sat there for so long, not dying, not growing, not changing, I thought I might try something different. They are obviously metabolizing the water somehow or else they would have dried out long ago. So half the indoor strength miracle grow became their regular Sunday feeding routine.
I have another one I struck 2/18/23 that I had put in my "probably dead" section as it did not look much alive, ("mostly dead" as Miracle Max said in The Princess Bride) that just tonight I found a 4" beautiful white root growing around the plastic cup. This one is pen sized, 8.75", 4 nodes and parafilm on the top cut.
So while yes, grafting would have given me a nearly year head start, I just never figured it would take so long when I struck them. After that, life went on with so many other things that grafting did not become an option ever thought of.
I do this with dormant second year grape canes. They take months. Patients folks. Sand method is also an excellent way to start sweet potatoes. Just bury a whole organic one half deep and park it in a sunny window. My storage tote with two taters looks like a jungle after two months. The whole vines are root covered.
Haters gonna hate lol. Don’t worry about them. I propagate for a living and hardwood cuttings no matter what take 4 months to root out . Soft wood 4-6 weeks. Takes time, just stick and wait lol. Thanks for sharing
It works. AT MINIMUM, you're waiting 3-4 weeks prior to cuttings setting roots.
Thank you for sharing!
Amen. Patience is truly a virtue. I have read rooting this way can take 30 to 100 days to produce roots. Just depends on what is being rooted.
I plan to try this method with my 16yo Apricots, which I have to prune pretty hard in the coming few seasons (and I don't want to waste the cuttings).
Typically apricots should be grafted. But perhaps you’ll have some luck. 😀
@@PlantFanatics Grafted? You mean the cuttings shouldn't be used to make more trees?
@@mariomene2051yes typically with that genus/group of plants/trees typically are incredulously hard to propagate from cutting if it's even possible at all so the best way to propagate them is to dig up some large thick roots from the tree and then graft branches onto those roots called a rootstock cutting. And it's not just stone fruit trees that are almost impossible to propagate its almost all common fruit trees like apples avocado's citrus
This method works so well. I put them on top of fridge and open once a day and mist every couple of days . The roots shoot out all over r the place with the fig cuttings. Currently trying oleander and rose cuttings .
Keep us up to date on the progress!
Love your tactic and directness ! I was able to get a Myers and fig going using root starter and soil ( mixed with perlite) but I’m so excited to give this method a try as well .
Thank you for all the informative instructions 😊
Hello! Just swinging by to ask a question. First and foremost this rooting method is excellent. If you’re impatient like myself do not skip out on the heat mat. Vivosun makes a great mat and you can purchase separately their temperature probe that will consistently keep the temperature around 75°, which is optimal. Now, for my question, do you have any special recommendations for planting the newly rooted cuttings? Or is it just as simple as putting it in potting soil and setting it in the sun? Thanks!
Hello, I love your videos. 2 Qs:
1- does the age of the tree matter?
2- do the length of the cuttings matter?
Thank you 🙏
Lenght ALWAYS matter.... I know my exgirlfriend said, now shes my wife
I'd love to hear your take on the significance of a heat mat vs no heat mat. None the less, great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge with the general public.
Thank you for the videos . Have you tried this with Crepe Myrtle ? If not would you consider it ? Thanks
Thanks! We’ll look into it
Can I propagate apricot cuttings this way
You must also tell us what options are available, such as rooting hormone, which dip n grow is not available in my country,, and also other than this sand, what can we use? Is it in the dark or is it better in the light? It must be more specific so that we avoid mistakes as much as possible.
We have many many videos in our profile pertaining to all of this subject matter. Probably more than most of my followers would like. But any rooting hormone you can get will be fine. Sand is a must for this method. You could use river sand as opposed to playsand. No beach sand though. No light until after they root.
Agree. Videos have covered every aspect of this methodology. Great instructions on his UA-cam channel. Due diligence.
Great info here and appreciate how you handled the unproductive comments!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing this with us 💜❤️💜❤️💜❤️💜❤️ you saved our lives, my friends and I
I am going to try this now. I been using moist paper towel methhod after watching your video last year and its been working for me. 😅
Can you suggest a few varieties of figs & mulberries which would fruit & flourish in the Tropics? And would you sell the cuttings for those suggested varieties as well?
Have you ever tried water rooting, and if so please share your results and how it compares to this method
This method works great. Patience is a virtue. Thanks. Great video as usual!!
Thank you for the kind words! Much appreciated.
Dude I’m so stoked to try this method out before spring. Took a bunch of cuttings from my Chicago Hardy a couple weeks back. Have them chilling in the fridge will early spring. Thanks for the advise brotha man
can you go over specifics like how moist the sand is starting and if you have to clean it first and do you spray with undiluted alcahual?
i done hydrangeas and so many other items
Would this work for mulberry cuttings as well?
I have been experimenting with sand propagation for a couple years now. I agree, sand is quicker at rooting, but there are variables to it. For instance, you propagate in an open, large Garage area guessing your humidity level is around 30 to 40%, whereas I do it in a smaller GreenHouse with humidity in the 80 to 85% range. Since sand attracts moisture, i I let my bins sit for 2 months, the sand will attract enough water to literally cover the sand in standing water. I usually propagate my cuttings till I see root callous or very small roots, then transfer to soil. But there is a failure rate doing that. I have thought about leaving them in the sand till they get massive roots, but myself, as with most of your viewers, we propagate multiple varieties at one time, with different rooting times. I don't want to disturb the sand removing a cutting variety with massive roots, if it's next to a variety that is slower to root as it may kill it. Whats your suggestion on that? Would love to see a video of up potting these cutting to see your method. By the way, non of what I say should be construed as bashing at all. I agree with this method, use this method, just don't have the success when it comes to up potting. I would like to learn if there is such a thing as to early to up pot, or too late to up pot......
What has really helped me is to 'transfer to icu'😂 after up potting into potting soil from sand propagation. This entails moving the pot to Northside of my shed. I place the recently uppotted cutting in a 10-20 tray and I water from the bottom. I don't go crazy with the watering, perhaps just 2 in high in the 1020 tray. If the plant really looks terrible, I might tie an opaque grocery bag over it. I mentally put a note in my head that when I round on my new plants I stopped by the shed. Add water, take the bag off, inspect etc. I keep the plant in 'ICU' for a week and a half. If I see new growth push out and the plant looks healthy I rotate to it's spot in my backyard. Just sharing what works for me, cheers! Happy growing and happy holidays 😊
Any number of things could be happening here…
For example, do you keep it in the same 80% humidity in your greenhouse after potting up or move it to a place with less humidity? If so, try keeping it in similar humidity levels and gradually reducing it.
Do you use soil with compost in it or a potting mix? The compost could attract mold or bacteria in such a humid environment. Try an inert potting mix till you have sufficient growth then fertilize with slow release.
Do they shrivel up and die? Do they go black from the bottom or the top? All these will give you hints on what’s going wrong.
Questions: 1st - Do you have any grow hormone on those cuttings? 2nd: - was the sand sanitized before using it?
Yes, I use DipNGrow rooting hormone. And no, I buy Playsand which is pre-washed. So I just open and use.
@@PlantFanatics Absolutely, thank you for the response! I'll try this method one of these days, I saw a guy rooting a one node fig plant using this method!
Is sand the best medium? Could I use peat moss? I find the acidity in peat resistant to mold. How much light? Have you tried this with roses?
I personally know people who use this method for roses with success. But I myself am not a rose person and therefore don’t qualify myself as the best source of knowledge in rose propagation. Light is unnecessary in propagation until there is leaf formation. I do not use peat moss as a rooting substrate because gnats love it. After all, most potting mixes utilize peat as their main substrate makeup.
Please put me on your calendar to buy Black Madeira KK cuttings when they become available
Thank you!
Could you also in another video explain how there are some kinds of plants that cant be propagated through cuttings like most fruit tree varieties
Great job and information. is river sand suitable ? what month is best for mulburry tree cutting to root ? thank you.
We prefer play sand to limit microbial life
You can do it any time but most take it on as a winter project
I planter a black mission fig last year about this time and yesterday discovered that something girded it 100% at the base just above the graft. I hope it will come back. I should have put a screen around the trunk. hind sight is 20/20
May I ask why the tree is grafted?
Well said sir. people nowdays are so impatient they want the results in a blink of an eye
Absolutely. Of course this is a consequence of modern conveniences. But plants have their own timelines. The gardener has to mold to its pace, not the other way around.
Thanks for your videos. I have a few fig cuttings i am waiting on to root with this method. It’s been 6 weeks, no sign of roots so far. I do see lots of condensation drops forming under the lid though. Is it too humid maybe? If sprayed once a week at the beginning now do not spray
do we need any special lights?
We live in Montana. Can I start my cuttings now in the Autumn and possibly plant them in the Spring?
Yes, 100%
Grapes for me .. I prune in early March ..and by end of May I have roots .. I root outdoors
I watched one of your other videos where you cut the original tree down to small nubs, does that original tree grow quick enough to fruit in the summer? We always pull our trees over and cover them with carpet and tarp to get through the winter.
I tried it because I saw it from you showing it on tiktok, It works 100%, I had mine in for 5 weeks
Thank you so much for sharing your experience! I’m so glad it worked well for you. That’s why I make these videos.
I’m giving it a try with my Smith, Black Madeira and an unknown fig cutting I took from my son‘s plant. I think part of the upset you’re seeing comes from the fact that your original video says that you got roots in one week. That’s not the common experience for most of us. Maybe you should edit the video to reset the expectations
I’m giving it a try with my Smith, Black Madeira and an unknown fig cutting I took from my son‘s plant. I think part of the upset you’re seeing comes from the fact that your original video says that you got roots in one week. That’s not the common experience for most of us. Maybe you should edit the video to reset the expectations
This is my first time doing this I’m using the same method in a clear container
Thank you for the video I'm going to try today
Would you try your method on rooting a jujube cutting? I would like to see if you can get that to work.
I think it’s worth the experiment! I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
@@PlantFanatics Jujube are famous for being very difficult to root. If someone can have a method that's proven to have above 90% success rate, it would change jujube rooting history.
Nice video sir. Thanks for the info. If you wouldnt mind giving me a few minutes of your time. Do you think this method would also work with perlite? And would i be able to stick it vertically so i can get the roots to sprout on the bottom
Yes, it will work with perlite, no problem. You can stick them up and down, but it’s the humidity that causes roots to form. Dip the end you want to root in a nice rooting hormone and you’ll get the to form wherever you want, regardless if they are upright or not.
@@PlantFanatics thank you!
Please comment on the hours of application of grow lights versus hours of darkness
BTW I’m having great success with your cuttings!
Thank you
How many hours of light does a fig cutting need per day?
Thanks for the video. Great method that really works!
I’ve never thought of putting the cuttings on their side and on top of the sand like that. This is brilliant! 👍 I’m going to try this, just to try it lol. Looks fun.
I’ve used sand in a dome before but I was sticking them in the sand standing up. And I was using the bigger containers and lining them up like soldiers. It works too but this method will put my smaller containers to work. Thanks for the tip! Cheers!
How do you know when it's time to put them in the ground?
Thanks for the video.
I’ve tried to root cuttings several times and I’ve had poor success, even with elderberry which should be able to root in just water!
But I’m trying again with your method.
Question: does the time of year that you take the dog cuttings make a big difference? I’m guessing that if the plant is dormant when you take the cuttings then it will be a little longer for them to wake up, and maybe lower success rates?
3 days settles, 3 weeks starts growing , 3 months nice product
well said video..truth is best.
Hi there! I was wondering do you shut the Tupperware lid completely or just set it on top? I was thinking air tight was not correct so i just laid the lid on top and pressed one corner down. Its a little thing but could be important.
Also thank you for the encouragement because none of my fruit trees got any fruit after 3 yrs....got to be patient😊
Thanks for watching! Yes, the containers are closed all the way. The thing with these bins is that even when they are closed, there’s still gaps around the edges. It’s not a perfect seal. But we want controlled humidity levels by using a spray bottle. Don’t over water.
What’s the light💡 situation you have happening on the containers ??
Nothing, I just use them for lighting when I work with the cuttings. These areas also double as seed starting shelves. Hence the grow lights.
do you put the heat temperature node in the box or underneath it?
Would you heat sterilize your rooting sand before using?
You can. I don’t.
Can you provide a link to your heating mats?
Are you using distilled water or plain tap water in the spray bottle to moisten the sand and cuttings?
Just One Question.
I Know That
Fig Trees Root In
Play Sand In Containers But What About Other Fruit Trees Such As Apple, Plum,
Apricot,
Peach,
Nectarine,
Cherry,Etc.?
🤔 Do You Know If They Will Too?
Hi my friend, can you ship any of those cutting ✂️ to Thailand. . Dhl can work, i believe in the sand, method, i used to use soil, but its safer to use Sand
Thanks for sure !
Our pleasure!
Excellent video!!
Do you need light to help with growth or leave in dark place?
Light is not necessary until leaf development.
Thank you so much.
Love the video. You got a new subscriber here friend! I definitely will be trying this out and from what I can tell, one will be able to potentially get head start in the spring and what a wonderful thing to do in the winter time while you're waiting a month or two for your roots to develop versus waiting quite a bit longer if the cuttings are outside, which is my method. It takes awhile to warm up outside. Cool method and thank you for sharing; people hate because it's either to new and now the old way or too damn impatient 😂
Thanks so much for the kind words! Good luck with your rooting endeavors. Looking forward to hearing from you on how it goes.
Question; if you are laying down the stems like that couldn't the top of the stems root just as the bottoms? When both ends do (or just the top) root what do you do? just tear off the roots on the top?
The driving force of rooting at the bottom of the cuttings is the rooting hormone. The roots will form faster wherever the hormone is. In the rare occurrence of upper roots, simply remove them once potted or let them dry and whither on their own. No big deal.
@@PlantFanatics Understood, thanks for the clear answer.
Thank you !😊
This isint about rooting figs but just wondering if you grow LSU Purple fig I am thinking about growing it, if so how well does that variety do and taste
How many other varieties if plants (besides figs) have you successfully rooted cutting like this.? And which varieties of plants have been your most successful?
My fig cuttings rooted ridiculously fast in sand and now it’s still too cold . Will they be ok if I pot them up and leave them growing in basement for the meantime?? Basement remains above 65 degrees but no sun only a bright artificial light 💡
Also there are some the have growth but super pale
Thanks for the video. Can you help me with varieties of seeds from your country. I want to try them in my country but I need seeds not cuttings or seedlings.
If you’re referring to fig seeds I would not recommend propagating that way. They are not true to seed and large quantity won’t even be female
Chad, any comments about leafy growth with no rooting taking place? Many times my cuttings start developing leafs before rooting and typically end up dying back.
This can happen from time to time. I’ve definitely had it happen. I find that once the roots do develop and I pot them up, new growth occurs and they end up just fine.
Thank you for your instructive video I appreciate it bless you
Thanks for watching!
Whens the earliest i can start this method. Im located in the northeast?
The temperature matters for this method... as long as you understand that you can start at any time. Assume 3-6 weeks to root, and have a space ready for them when it's time to pot up. Good luck
Must the base of the sick always be completely out of the sand or is it fine to have it dug in a little?
It can be pressed into the sand slightly.
What type of heat matt do you use? Does it have a thermostat/rheostat? Thanks for the info.
I only use coarse sand, no bacteria or fungus. Clean the cuttings in rubbing alcohol or a fungicide. I don’t trust dirt for rooting too much chance in rot and fungus not enough drainage.
We use this one:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08NB4PX9Y?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzdan0855a-20&creativeASIN=B08NB4PX9Y&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.1ELBYSYL37T8X&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfplantfanatics_9EYAKBGK6QAN772490Z6_asin
high temperature and humidity promotes mold
It also promotes roots. Clean your cuttings well and mold shouldn’t be an issue. If it is, spot spray with isopropyl alcohol.
How do you determine when you have enough root mass to transplant the cuttings?
I typically remove them once the roots get 2-3 inches long. You should be able to pull the cuttings out and the roots are strong enough to take it. Some of that just comes with experience. Once you know you know.
@PlantFanatics when is the best time to prune fruit trees (for cuttings or just to thin and shape)?
Do the roots tangle when you separate them to up pot?
When they’re established enough you can pull them apart without the roots breaking.
Will this work for apple trees?
No, Apple trees are usually propagated by grafting onto specific rootstocks,
Apple tree seeds are easy to start so you can easily grow some for rootstock and might get a good variety on that, then learn how to graft your cuttings onto it. If you're buying apples from the supermarket I recommend Pink Lady/Cripp's Pink, delicious, floral with a nice sweet / tart acid balance. Puts other varieties like Honeycrisp, Gala etc. to shame.
The trouble with this method is the transplanting. Most people will hurt badly the fragile roots when picking from the box. The stress on the cuttings is huge. Few will survive.
I'm trying this method for the first time and am having a problem with mold. I've used a very weak bleach spray and H2O2 spray, but it keeps coming back.
I always use isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle. I then let the cuttings air dry. After they dry I mist them again with water and close the lid. If your cuttings have mold on them the thing to do moving forward is make sure your pre-washing is on point before the rooting process ever begins. Wash them with a clean sponge in warm water with dish soap. That pretty much always does the trick for me.
Will do! Your videos are very helpful. Thanks!
i tried the perlite method, and they went mouldy
Question: now that my cuttings are rooting at multiple nodes in the horizontal position; how should I plant them in my pots? Vertically?
How many roots do I need before potting?
Thank you!
Fig roots tend to be more shallow than deep so if you have the space I would plant them horizontally. How many roots you would need before potting would depend on the cutting size, the humidity, temperature, airflow, sunlight etc. in the environment they're potted in, etc. The more roots they have the more water they can uptake so be patient because with too little roots and too much heat, airflow, low humidity and the other factors, if you put them in an environment like that for too long they could die. You want to slowly introduce them to new environments over a week or so to be safe, start with an hour the first day then bring them back to a safe spot, and increase by an hour each day. If you have a mother tree you can get an endless supply of cuttings from do your own experiments with how little roots you can have and still safely pot them up.
Thank you for your generous response!