This got me thinking. Definitely don't want to cause undo stress in this area. On the other hand, most of the weight is up front and also the primary jack points behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels is the primary spot for the typical scissor-type in the trunk jack. Those spots intended for the general-purpose jack, typically equipped with most cars. This is definitely something I need to look into for greater detail. One viewer pointed out that the manual states that the rear diff is a preferred floor jack location for the rear. I found this online that confirms alt garage floor jack locations which lists #4 the rear diff base: www.infinitiq50.org/attachments/lifting-point-on-q50-jpg.28402/
the indy500 is a good street tire but its not a drag radial, its a 340tw tire. the end. nittos are a little better but still not all that great. theyre a budget drag radial and really popular with low hp guys. they just dont work if you make any kind of real power. R888R is a great tire overall but its not a drag radial. the reason it hooks at all is solely to the soft rubber. the carcass is meant for road course use which also makes it a good street tire, albeit a short lived one due to the tw rating.
The Nitto NT555R II rears were night and day better in a straught line than the Indy 500 tires. Downside for me is I have two sets of 19" wheels. At the current time I'm not in the market for the17" wheel or 18". Next tire I'd like to try for a daily street and straight line traction could be the Goodyear F1 supercar tire or the R version for the rear but that's after I wear out my R888R tires. In addition, I don't consider 440-450 whp to be big power but it no slouch either. This 3.0t Q50-60 tuned with it's instant 115-120 whp gain and 150+ Tq drives no differently then the factory 300 whp car and that's a good thing. Still very smooth, comfortable and gets 33 -34 mpg highway and 22-24 mpg city.
The Firestones didn't work out cuz you were trying to fit a 275 in a 19x8.5. There's a reason why a rim width range exists. Maybe next time listen to the people who made the tire not someone in a forum.
You're crazy but since I never tested/drove the 275 width Firestone tire on a 9.5-10" wide wheel I can't for 100% certain say it would or wouldn't have changed the traction outcome difference. I honestly can't see 1 inch making that grand of a difference but likely very small benefit. I'd bet a few $$ the Firestone Indy 500's grip level would not have changed if it was mounted to either a 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 wheel.
They are built as a road course tire but to do that means grippy rubber compound. They are a Dot legal 100 treadwear street tire which is the same TW rating as some drag radials like a Nitto NT05 or NT555R. The Toyo NT888R have a stiff sidewall construction. They are not meant or intended to be air'd down to unsafe levels. They are not a purpose built straight line drag strip tire but on the street they are liked by many and I have driven with mine in huge downpours at 65-70mph on the highway and not flown off the road. Try that with a drag radial tire. What's a lot better than the R888R for acceleration 0-60mph and 30-80mph for cars with power to spin tires at 30mph is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R tire or the Pro E.T. street version. Downside is if you get caught in the rain with the M.T. ET street R, you wont be making it home without a crash unless you drove 5-10mph.
You should upgrade your calipers, pads and rotors.. put the sport 4 and 2 piston on, help with stopping power and heat. Especially living down there when its hot.
I already upgraded to the front R1 Concepts slotted Geomet rotors and their ceramic pads many months ago. Definitely improved my braking feel and stopping distance for what I need. If I had an unlimited budget to spend, I'd get the 2 piece rotors and larger brakes F&R but in my situation I consider it overkill. My brakes work very good for what I need. I don't push my car's brakes on a road course or track this car. The 2 piece rotors do save some serious weight though but cost a pretty penny.
@@GettingthruLife so get them after those rotors and pads finish.. by that time things should be a little cheaper and gives you time to save.. definitely a huge difference with the 2 piece. Had them over a year now no complaints, and im sure will last a while. You will get to a point where you dont waste time on people cars unless its hellcat status or better. I just ignore most ppl on the road now, and driver regularly things last longer.
I'm running the 305 width 555R2 and they hook in 3rd with 940 rwhp and full BMR suspension 1st and 2nd is a joke even at low boost. Not much of an improvement over the NT05R. The R888 is not as good as the Nittos.
Having owned and run the Toyo R888R now for a year, I'm not that impressed with their traction. I don't know if it the time I've owned them and the tire compound got harder but I can't really feel a difference over my 280 treadwear Pirelli everyday summer average tires. I think if I would have had my wider wheels at the time and I had gone 285 with the Pirelli tires then I could have been happier, more pleased with rwd traction. Downside now, the wide tires with so called good/best rubber compound are hard to get and cost close to $400 a tires. Consensus is the best 17-18" tires for straight line traction is the Mickey Thompson ET Street R's. For a 19" wheel many are saying the best is the ET Street the same rubber compound but with some tread grooves so drive on the street and see some water.
I dud not do extended smoking burnout but I would do 8 to 10 runs back to back and that added up to burnout. My car will spin 90% of first gear with launch control and I still achieved my fastest 0-60 while doing so. TC on or modulating the gas pedal kills 0-60 times.
As people have pointed out many times in my videos throughout this last year, remind me got to bite the bullet and typically buy the good stuff to get the results. The good stuff is expensive. I usually try to do my homework and see how I can buy less and get more but tires seem to be one of those areas that you get what you pay for. Sad thing is the Nitro's I had were just released in that size when I bought them. They were $335 per tire but have come down in price over the last couple months to 295.00. Hopefully these are my last tires I need for the next year or so. Thanks for responding and sharing a nice comment!
I had talked with you about a year ago on these tires glad you finally got them all my research and testing with friends in Louisiana showed really great results. Also that mustang video showing 800whp plus hooking up ment alot lol
I've learned what you see on youtube doesn't necessarily carry over to my experience but it's a gauge/ some thing that gives us an idea. I saw that same video and watched it a few times. I didn't get to run my car Sat so the verdict is still out but I have the hopes the Toyo will deliver. If it works for me then it's a safe bet that it will work for almost everybody. All my car's compared to the internet cars fall short. There's a super interesting video by a Texas Dodge enthusiast here who clearly knows his shit and recently he's been making video with his dodge 392 and a 2019 GT 5.0 10 speed auto. I don't know if it just Texas related, real world stuff but on the streets he could manage any traction with those cars both with upgraded 275 street tires. Best, real world he could manage on the general purpose street was like 4.9 fastest and 5 sec or above. Those cars are as fast or faster than your average Red Sport. He's also made a video on burnouts and street tires. I'll post them. Not fantasy land that some internet people live in. Anyways, appreciate you continuing to watch my context. I enjoy hearing from many people like yourself. A few are just really troubled people but that's life and the times we are going through.
Cool video, but would have been much faster and better if you just got right to it and did a draggy of all 3 tires 60-130 if you don't have power to spin at 60... Go down to do another custom test like 20-80 so that it will directly correlate to numbers.
Making videos isn't my job or what i was trained with my degree/ education to do. Easy to coach from the couch as making videos isn't as easy as many who dont make videos think. Appreciate you watching and all comments are welcomed and read by me. If I had done things better I wouldn't have bought any of these. I could have saved a lot of money and time by buying the much better 60ft and 0-60 mph tire the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R or the Pro R tire. I blew my wad buying these, not a good decision. Just put the real drag radials on for pure fun when no rain in the forcast and have no regrets. .
I think that when driving on the typical street or highway that these really smoothe type tires dont do nearly as well as they do on a track with lots of rubber laid down and an overall smoother surface. Treadwear rating has zero meaning when it comes to traction. I am not trying to tell you to buy it but a Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus has rediculous traction on the street and it is a 560 treadwear all season tire. I have cut a 2.07 60ft on the street launching in 2wd with a small 255/50 r20 DWS in a 5000lb Supercrew 4x4 2.7 Ecoboost truck that also does not have a limited slip differential. It has cut a 1.76 60ft launching in 4wd. I recently tried a well thought of Yokohama Geolander X-CV, another high performance all season tire and it has a marginally lower treadwear rating. In 2wd this thing just wont go, averages about 2.45 60ft. I am betting that you would be shocked what kind of results you would get with the DWS on the street. Also I cut a 4.89 0-60 launching in 2wd on this tire and a 4.07 in 4wd. Again this is a 5000lb Supercrew F150 with a 2.7 Ecoboost. Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus tires are back on! Oh and by the way they are very light per size. But tough. I ran them on rough mountain roads all fall and winter, never a flat, puncture or problem.
What were you using to measure your times? Treadwear rating is an indication of the wear a tire will see due to durability of the rubber compound. Softer and more plyable tires typically wear down faster therefor tires with more grip/lower tread wear don't last as long. The rubber gets transferred to the road surface or get converted to rubber dust. Keep in mind temperature has a lot to do with how a specific tire performs. A UHP summer tire works pretty much on a warm road in the summer. UHP summer tires are not 400-500+ treadwear. They are usually below 300 treadwear more 100 to 250. The tire from Continental the DWS tire is an all season tire and that means its tread compound stays soft and payable at colder temps plus the tread design is better for winter weather where summer specific tires get hard and under hard use in the cold can get damaged as I've seen summer tires that were used in cold for burnouts/donuts the tread blocks can get broken off and traction is severely decreased. In the cooler situation the "all season" tire is likely to outperform the superior summer tire because it's not Sumner. I have three sets of tires now. I have Pirelli summer uhp tires 245 width and they are geat for summer general driving and ok for winter but by no means a racing tire due to their width limitations. I also have Toyo UHP rated all season tires proxies and they stay soft and grippy at 30-40 degrees but they are not wide either at 245. Lastly, I have the legendary street/track tire the Toyo R888R tires in 285 on 10" wide proper wheels. By far better than any other street tire for drag racing in the hot summer. When its 70 degree below they become as hard a brittle plastic. So with this all pointed out the best street tire to achieve the best 0-60 mph and possibly the best 60foot for a turbo car is when it's cold. A UHP (ultra high performance) clasified, all season tire is likely the best tire to have. Turbo cars make tge most power when it's cold outside because cool air means more fuel and bigger combustion explosion/more hp. With this stated anything below 1.8 -1.9 60foot on the street is impressive. For reference, a track racing friend with his dodge 392 Scat Pack on pure drag M&H tires typically pulls 1.59-1.72 60 foot with a prep track surface and that's with dragstrip rollout subtracted. I know another person with a 500 plus rwhp Q50 set up for e30 and he runs Mickey Thompson $470 per tire E.T. Street R 305 width pure drag racing radials and he's told me he's seen 1.65 60foot per his dragy gps on the concrete street.
@Getting thru Life All of my times are dragy times. I have tried several tires with the same basic statistics as the DWS but not the same results. That X-CV spins to 60mph...lol. Rubber is very soft to the touch. Its shearing off. The DWS works on dry, wet and ice. Simply amazing tire. Id like to try the Extreme Contact Sport but doesn't come in 255/50 20. I am not willing to go below 30 inch diameter so that being said its hard for me to buy UHP tires for my truck. If it was slammed it would not look odd with a 28 or 29 inch tire but it does live a truck life. I lowered it a little, 2wd oem front strut assemblies, removed 4wd rear spacers, added 2 inch rear drop shackle, 2wd bump blocks and shocks. So it sets identical to a 2wd F150 up front, 2 inches lower than oem 2wd in the rear. 30 inch tire is on the fringe of funny looking...lol.
@Lil 2.7 I don't race around anymore. Since the pandemic days and expensive premium fuel i have chilled out lost interest. My best 0-60 mph was 3.82 sec and best 60 foot summer 1.87 dragy. Traffic in Texas is nightmarish as other states people move here and border crossing reaches highest numbers in history. Driving fast is risky and could mean if you are caught and or you kill/injure someone while police think you were driving dangerously means you can go to prison.
I smoke mine all of first gear back to back to back runs on concrete (summer heat) while using LC. Trying to launch hard is disappointing. I've run these for a few years now (take them off for cooler months/winter). In my experience the R888R tire are not enough but where better than the Nitto NT555R II tires. Per data from my dragy for my application/road/D.A. The only tire worth having for launching 500+ crank hp and 500+ torque at 3k rpm is the 275 to 305 M.T. E.T. Street R tires. If I had a bunch of money sitting on the table I'd buy two ET street R tires and likely hit 60ft 1.7 sec on the street and 0-60 mph at between 3.65 and 3.70 sec. My best currently with these R888R 285 tires is 1.87 60ft and 3.85 sec 0-60 mph with really just a 93 octane tune. Spinning the tires 90% of first gear too.
I made this video a while ago so it's not super fresh in my mind but I'm discussing more about grip/instant traction vs treadwear rating. The Toyo UHP tire is 100 treadwear meaning in the general sense, it's a grippier feeling rubber compound but wears down faster because the lower treadwear rating. The Firestone Indy 500 tire is the 340 rated treadwear tire and of course is less grippy with less traction. All 3 tires are summer only tires but just 2 are considered UHP tire due to low treadwear rating. Generally people claim this Firestone Indy tire to be better than it is, at least from my testing and personal use. It is not a good street racing tire option likely because of its higher treadwear rating. The Nitto NT555 R II tire is labeled a hybrid drag radial tire and it is rated close to 100 treadwear tire compound but for my specific driving, my road surfaces, my application, my weather the Toyo R8888R tire was better, resulted in the quicker acceleration every time measured by dragy gps. There are no 340 "width" tires discussed in this video so i never compared a tire of tgese extreme width. There are only 2, 275 width and one 285 width. The width difference is 10mm. Not enough in my opinion to skew my results or the video content.
What kind of exhaust did you go with? I just put on my stillen catback, ams intakes last weekend. Plan on doing lower downpipe this weekend. Im installing a tablet type top screen seeing as that the 2016 didn't come with android auto. I need a good tire also. What are the specs of your rims how wide are they? In the rear
I went with the 15310 street performance x-pioe Magnaflow CBE because of its low rumble, no drone, and quiet interior sound. I'm still very very happy with it. Has resonators and high flow muffler. The x-pipe smooths out the sound and provides extra low end grunt. My aftermarket Verde wheels I went with are 8.5 front and 10" wide rear. Absolutely nothing wider would fit with +42 offset. This 285 Toyo tire is the max that my car in the rear world can accept with out possible damage if the wheel&tire travel up far enough. I'm stock ride height so that gives me more clearance to work with.
I like the 285 tire look with the +43mm offset 10inch wide rear wheel. A proper fit and looks good from the rear view. In reality, a 305 tire looks funny or out of place on an Infiniti Q50 sedan.
My R888R rear tire allowed me to get faster 60foot and 0-60mph times than the Nittos. Now I never did standing burnouts but after trying many launches with both the tires got heat put in them. Now that years have passed and I have more experience in general, I'd skip the Nitto and Toyo. In winter you will get much better performance times because dry and cool temps. Problem is summer tires absolutly suck in temps under 70 degress. Better to buy all season UHP tires so way better traction in the 35-70 degrees. If you want the best race oriented tire pretty much avaliable, can do burn out to heat up too as it's designed for standing burnout. The downside, absolutly not highway trip tire and 100% not a rain tire. Best traction radial tire is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R and then there's a Pro E T. Street R. For pure street tire, summer tire id look at the new Bridgestones and of course Goodyear and Michelin UHP tires. (What I have observed with my R888R tires is in a short amount of time in the environment/weather, the R888R tire compound hardens over time. Allow these tires to see 20-40 degree temps even if sitting in your garage, they get in a sense damaged.
@davidoviedo664 from all my results and trial per my dragy I got into 1.87 60 foot and 3.85 0-60 rwd still spinning the tires. The toyo would spin but just translated into more forward drive. The Toyo R888R TIRES are really autocross tires. They shine when it's 90 and 100 dresses outside. They like a hot surface. All street tires are not made to endure standing burnouts. Drag slicks/drag tires are built with burnouts in mind. Why I don't do dry standing burnouts. My Nitto tires were in the mid 4.3-4.5 sec 0-60mph. 60 foot at the drag strip on their street strip and tune night, Nittos got a 2.1 60foot. I'm at about 450 whp current. Back then during the video I was running about 433 whp.
All were 19" dia. Nitto NT555R II was 275/40R19 width, brand new just available the month I bought them from Nitto for 19". The Firestone Indy 500, way inferior tire to the other 2 plus cheaper, Firestone's were 275/40R19. The Toyo Proxes R888R was a 285/35ZR19. The Toyo (summertime only) provided the best 0-60mph and 60 foot (3.85sec 0-60 / 1.87 60ft no rollout) Just a 93 tune, AMS airbox kit with Magnaflow CBE 500hp/500+ torque.
There is no short answer here. Out of the three tires in my video the Toyo R888R provided me the best Dragy GPS 0-60mph and 60 ft by a sizeable margin. Everything I say here is based on my car, my weather/D.A. and the surface here which I try for concrete where all concrete is not the same. For performance numbers the Firestone brand offered the least traction per dragy data by a lot. My non-professional recommendation from my own data and research plus let's say 500+ hours of youtube videos over years and research, I say this: (Tires have gotten way way more expensive in last 2 years) For daily driving with normal level of spirited driving in a busy large city buy any one of the good, brand name HP tire (summer/winter) based on your seasons and weather. *dont need UHP tires (Ultra high performance) if you want to get your fastest acceleration times in the cooler weather shoot for a top tier UHP (ultra high performance) all season tire in climates 75 degree and below. Cooler temps going into the motor mean more power and most of the time lower D.A. verses a warm/hot day. For pure summer heat & weather spend the big bucks and go UHP summer 100 -200 treadwear rated. For curve carving, g-force in the terms and for more spirited drivers with more hp. (These types of tires with sizes 255 - 285 width generally rwd won't hold traction below 30mph 430+ whp and 500+ torque at 2700-3000 rpm) Better grip for corners and road course use. For pure traction/acceleration (street-strip) during dry only the pretty much only option is the Mickey Thompson E.T. street R "radial" tire. Very expensive and now harder to get. For all-out drag strip racing on a closed street or at the dragstrip and not recommended drive 65-75mph on the highway to and from the track are pure drag spec tires radial and bias ply from Mickey Thompson, Hoosier and M&H. From what I've learned with 5 different sets of street tires (some 2 tires only (rwd) and some all four front and rear) with my tuned 445whp/512 torque 3.0T Q50) is the Toyo R888R's are fairly good but I would not buy again for what I specifically wanted to do. Only good for a 90+ degree day. They don't work as designed or stay soft in 75 and below degree weather. [also each car/truck platform is different: suspension, linkage, diff, transmissions, weight distribution and gearing to name a few. What works on one vehicle likely doesn't work as well for another so people love to chime in with their ignorance]. I would not buy the Nitto NT555R II tires again unless you are talking 305 to 315 width which don't work for me or in my opinion look right on my car. 305 rear tires with just the right -50 wheel offset can work but it's a compromise. Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R drag radials 275/285 are near the best on either a 10" or up to 11" wide wheel.
I've been running the rear 285x19x35, Nitto R888R and I spin them most of first with LC set 3.1-3.2k rmp but at least i'm moving forward to still get 3.8 sec 0-60 street 93 tune and 60 foot 1.8 best I have been able to do but done on the regular old street.
So far the Toyo R888R tire has been the best performer for 60ft, 0-60mph and 20/30mph punches. Only tire that i hear is more grippy/better is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R. I've heard some using and liking the Goodyear F1 Supercar 3 tire. With this said I'm not blown away with the R888R tire and I would not generally buy again. The M.T. E.T. Street R is the best tire for the specific job per a radial tire.
since you have 245/40/19 fronts those should be 26.7 outer diameter. So say if you went with Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS you would pick the 275/35R19 that's 26.6 outer diameter. This way you are .2-.3 with in size difference. My go-to tires size online website to check tire ratios is tiresize.com
They could fit on Q50 sport wheel rear 9.5" but my factory 8.5" wheels officially can't run a 275 width tire. The big tire shops with bigger liability won't install 275 tire on anything smaller than a 8" wide wheel. 285 tires like the Toyo R888R require a 9.5" or maybe a 10" wide wheel like I have when I bought my rear Verde VFF01 wheels.
@@GettingthruLife I have the 2021 sig with the 19 in 8.5 what's the widest I can go keeping the stock chrome wheels I just want the tires to go outside the fender a Lil bit u know
@@NYCQ50 legally per a good tire shop they can only mount a 255 wide tire on a 8.5" wheel. You can find smaller shops that don't follow the guidelines, I did find a couple independently own shops that would mount 275 with tires on my factory dark- chrome wheels. To get the wheels and tire to stick out past the fenders you will need to buy a wheel with less positive offset like +20. My rear 10" wheels are +42 offset with 285x19×35 and in the rear just ride outside the body. My front are 245×19x40 at +38 offset and the wheel and tire do not protrude outside of fenderwell, still sit inside the front fender.
@@NYCQ50 max I would go personally with 8.5 wheels front an rear is 255×40 front and 275x35 rear. I think the 40 series front and 35 series profile rear would be close in outer diameter as you want them front and rear pretty similar.
I sold the two NT555RIi's on Facebook Market place for $400. Nitto lowered the price on these about $35 per tire after about 2 months after I bought them so I had to sell my used ones for a little less.
Tire prices went up so much during and after covid sham. To now buy the only set of 0-30-0-60 tires, M.T. ET Street R, nearly $500 a tire. All three of these tires in this video are inferior now and where. I still have my Pirelli 245x19 summer 240 TW and they are good daily tires.
The Verde VFF01's with my 2 x 8.5" +38 offset fronts and 2 x 10" +42 offset rear cost 1,415 + $105 shipping + 125 tax = $1,646 plus they gave me a $80 discount included in that amount.
I like you man, you show appreciation for things, unlike most content creators, I love my Q as well and I like the fact that you show care and precaution when working on your car is tight! Keep up the good work! Do you have an insta?
I appreciate this. I seem to get a fair amount of people who don't like me, my car or just life in general. There's always a few good comments and positive feedback so thanks again. Maybe I've lost some enthusiasm for making car videos because of this. Plus there is so little return or no return that you, the person sending the money for mods will ever see again. if I had a better income source there would be many cool things I'd like to have done or do. One of them would have been to buy these +50 offset Weld racing Belmont Drag S157 10" wide wheels and likely 285 Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R drag radials. This would have been the biggest gain next to the Ecutek 93 octane tuning. Wheels are 410.00 a piece and the M.T. E.T tires likely $390 a piece and then $200 mount/balance. A lot of money that I cant afford to spend now. I currently have 10" wide rear wheels Verde VFF01's but they have my Toyo R888R mounted and mated to front new Toyo UHP all season tire plus my 4 other wheels with Pirelli P-zero summer tires but 245 width all four.
That’s because you aren’t the typical nonchalant “oh I don’t care about anything and I have free money because I don’t pay rent and live in my parents basement and have a 24% apr but it doesn’t matter because I’m just gonna total my car in a g*y ass takeover anyway” attitude, you’re a real guy, don’t be discouraged by the hate, that’s how you know you’re doing something worth while. What’s your Facebook? Or is it personal, no worries either way I’ve already subbed
@@nahfam1285 Yep there seem to be people that might be older too but never grew up to adulthood or they just have a horrible life. One joker replied simply, You talk too much and then one person said my face looked fat. That's all they said. Out of the blue one individual hinted he was looking at Redsports but from my 500hp dyno video and 513 torque said he was so glad he went with his much better and faster used BMW. This is what you get for trying to have fun and just make content to share. Crazy world we have been living in for years now.
I always jack on the subframe that way I avoid putting strain in the differential. Congratulations on the new tires.
This got me thinking. Definitely don't want to cause undo stress in this area. On the other hand, most of the weight is up front and also the primary jack points behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels is the primary spot for the typical scissor-type in the trunk jack. Those spots intended for the general-purpose jack, typically equipped with most cars. This is definitely something I need to look into for greater detail. One viewer pointed out that the manual states that the rear diff is a preferred floor jack location for the rear.
I found this online that confirms alt garage floor jack locations which lists #4 the rear diff base: www.infinitiq50.org/attachments/lifting-point-on-q50-jpg.28402/
the indy500 is a good street tire but its not a drag radial, its a 340tw tire. the end.
nittos are a little better but still not all that great. theyre a budget drag radial and really popular with low hp guys. they just dont work if you make any kind of real power.
R888R is a great tire overall but its not a drag radial. the reason it hooks at all is solely to the soft rubber. the carcass is meant for road course use which also makes it a good street tire, albeit a short lived one due to the tw rating.
The Nitto NT555R II rears were night and day better in a straught line than the Indy 500 tires. Downside for me is I have two sets of 19" wheels. At the current time I'm not in the market for the17" wheel or 18". Next tire I'd like to try for a daily street and straight line traction could be the Goodyear F1 supercar tire or the R version for the rear but that's after I wear out my R888R tires.
In addition, I don't consider 440-450 whp to be big power but it no slouch either. This 3.0t Q50-60 tuned with it's instant 115-120 whp gain and 150+ Tq drives no differently then the factory 300 whp car and that's a good thing. Still very smooth, comfortable and gets 33 -34 mpg highway and 22-24 mpg city.
The Firestones didn't work out cuz you were trying to fit a 275 in a 19x8.5. There's a reason why a rim width range exists. Maybe next time listen to the people who made the tire not someone in a forum.
You're crazy but since I never tested/drove the 275 width Firestone tire on a 9.5-10" wide wheel I can't for 100% certain say it would or wouldn't have changed the traction outcome difference. I honestly can't see 1 inch making that grand of a difference but likely very small benefit. I'd bet a few $$ the Firestone Indy 500's grip level would not have changed if it was mounted to either a 8.5, 9.0, 9.5 wheel.
The R888's are a hard tire made for autox and road race tracks not drag strips or street grip .
They are built as a road course tire but to do that means grippy rubber compound. They are a Dot legal 100 treadwear street tire which is the same TW rating as some drag radials like a Nitto NT05 or NT555R. The Toyo NT888R have a stiff sidewall construction. They are not meant or intended to be air'd down to unsafe levels. They are not a purpose built straight line drag strip tire but on the street they are liked by many and I have driven with mine in huge downpours at 65-70mph on the highway and not flown off the road. Try that with a drag radial tire. What's a lot better than the R888R for acceleration 0-60mph and 30-80mph for cars with power to spin tires at 30mph is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R tire or the Pro E.T. street version. Downside is if you get caught in the rain with the M.T. ET street R, you wont be making it home without a crash unless you drove 5-10mph.
You should upgrade your calipers, pads and rotors.. put the sport 4 and 2 piston on, help with stopping power and heat. Especially living down there when its hot.
I already upgraded to the front R1 Concepts slotted Geomet rotors and their ceramic pads many months ago. Definitely improved my braking feel and stopping distance for what I need. If I had an unlimited budget to spend, I'd get the 2 piece rotors and larger brakes F&R but in my situation I consider it overkill. My brakes work very good for what I need. I don't push my car's brakes on a road course or track this car. The 2 piece rotors do save some serious weight though but cost a pretty penny.
@@GettingthruLife so get them after those rotors and pads finish.. by that time things should be a little cheaper and gives you time to save.. definitely a huge difference with the 2 piece. Had them over a year now no complaints, and im sure will last a while. You will get to a point where you dont waste time on people cars unless its hellcat status or better. I just ignore most ppl on the road now, and driver regularly things last longer.
I'm running the 305 width 555R2 and they hook in 3rd with 940 rwhp and full BMR suspension 1st and 2nd is a joke even at low boost. Not much of an improvement over the NT05R. The R888 is not as good as the Nittos.
Having owned and run the Toyo R888R now for a year, I'm not that impressed with their traction. I don't know if it the time I've owned them and the tire compound got harder but I can't really feel a difference over my 280 treadwear Pirelli everyday summer average tires. I think if I would have had my wider wheels at the time and I had gone 285 with the Pirelli tires then I could have been happier, more pleased with rwd traction.
Downside now, the wide tires with so called good/best rubber compound are hard to get and cost close to $400 a tires. Consensus is the best 17-18" tires for straight line traction is the Mickey Thompson ET Street R's. For a 19" wheel many are saying the best is the ET Street the same rubber compound but with some tread grooves so drive on the street and see some water.
@@GettingthruLife Did you ever try warming the Nittos up?
I dud not do extended smoking burnout but I would do 8 to 10 runs back to back and that added up to burnout. My car will spin 90% of first gear with launch control and I still achieved my fastest 0-60 while doing so. TC on or modulating the gas pedal kills 0-60 times.
Awesome video. Even though I have a lot of knowledge on tires; I still learned more. Great job. Expensive sets of tires though lol.
As people have pointed out many times in my videos throughout this last year, remind me got to bite the bullet and typically buy the good stuff to get the results. The good stuff is expensive. I usually try to do my homework and see how I can buy less and get more but tires seem to be one of those areas that you get what you pay for. Sad thing is the Nitro's I had were just released in that size when I bought them. They were $335 per tire but have come down in price over the last couple months to 295.00. Hopefully these are my last tires I need for the next year or so.
Thanks for responding and sharing a nice comment!
I had talked with you about a year ago on these tires glad you finally got them all my research and testing with friends in Louisiana showed really great results. Also that mustang video showing 800whp plus hooking up ment alot lol
I've learned what you see on youtube doesn't necessarily carry over to my experience but it's a gauge/ some thing that gives us an idea. I saw that same video and watched it a few times. I didn't get to run my car Sat so the verdict is still out but I have the hopes the Toyo will deliver. If it works for me then it's a safe bet that it will work for almost everybody. All my car's compared to the internet cars fall short. There's a super interesting video by a Texas Dodge enthusiast here who clearly knows his shit and recently he's been making video with his dodge 392 and a 2019 GT 5.0 10 speed auto. I don't know if it just Texas related, real world stuff but on the streets he could manage any traction with those cars both with upgraded 275 street tires. Best, real world he could manage on the general purpose street was like 4.9 fastest and 5 sec or above. Those cars are as fast or faster than your average Red Sport. He's also made a video on burnouts and street tires. I'll post them. Not fantasy land that some internet people live in.
Anyways, appreciate you continuing to watch my context. I enjoy hearing from many people like yourself. A few are just really troubled people but that's life and the times we are going through.
Burnout on street tires or other tires ua-cam.com/video/FziGOFF-cgk/v-deo.html
0-60 times dodge charger and 5.0 on the real street: ua-cam.com/video/fkK3LF_ehJQ/v-deo.html
Cool video, but would have been much faster and better if you just got right to it and did a draggy of all 3 tires 60-130 if you don't have power to spin at 60... Go down to do another custom test like 20-80 so that it will directly correlate to numbers.
Making videos isn't my job or what i was trained with my degree/ education to do. Easy to coach from the couch as making videos isn't as easy as many who dont make videos think.
Appreciate you watching and all comments are welcomed and read by me.
If I had done things better I wouldn't have bought any of these. I could have saved a lot of money and time by buying the much better 60ft and 0-60 mph tire the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R or the Pro R tire. I blew my wad buying these, not a good decision.
Just put the real drag radials on for pure fun when no rain in the forcast and have no regrets. .
I think that when driving on the typical street or highway that these really smoothe type tires dont do nearly as well as they do on a track with lots of rubber laid down and an overall smoother surface. Treadwear rating has zero meaning when it comes to traction. I am not trying to tell you to buy it but a Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus has rediculous traction on the street and it is a 560 treadwear all season tire. I have cut a 2.07 60ft on the street launching in 2wd with a small 255/50 r20 DWS in a 5000lb Supercrew 4x4 2.7 Ecoboost truck that also does not have a limited slip differential. It has cut a 1.76 60ft launching in 4wd. I recently tried a well thought of Yokohama Geolander X-CV, another high performance all season tire and it has a marginally lower treadwear rating. In 2wd this thing just wont go, averages about 2.45 60ft. I am betting that you would be shocked what kind of results you would get with the DWS on the street. Also I cut a 4.89 0-60 launching in 2wd on this tire and a 4.07 in 4wd. Again this is a 5000lb Supercrew F150 with a 2.7 Ecoboost. Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus tires are back on! Oh and by the way they are very light per size. But tough. I ran them on rough mountain roads all fall and winter, never a flat, puncture or problem.
What were you using to measure your times? Treadwear rating is an indication of the wear a tire will see due to durability of the rubber compound. Softer and more plyable tires typically wear down faster therefor tires with more grip/lower tread wear don't last as long. The rubber gets transferred to the road surface or get converted to rubber dust.
Keep in mind temperature has a lot to do with how a specific tire performs. A UHP summer tire works pretty much on a warm road in the summer. UHP summer tires are not 400-500+ treadwear. They are usually below 300 treadwear more 100 to 250.
The tire from Continental the DWS tire is an all season tire and that means its tread compound stays soft and payable at colder temps plus the tread design is better for winter weather where summer specific tires get hard and under hard use in the cold can get damaged as I've seen summer tires that were used in cold for burnouts/donuts the tread blocks can get broken off and traction is severely decreased.
In the cooler situation the "all season" tire is likely to outperform the superior summer tire because it's not Sumner. I have three sets of tires now. I have Pirelli summer uhp tires 245 width and they are geat for summer general driving and ok for winter but by no means a racing tire due to their width limitations. I also have Toyo UHP rated all season tires proxies and they stay soft and grippy at 30-40 degrees but they are not wide either at 245. Lastly, I have the legendary street/track tire the Toyo R888R tires in 285 on 10" wide proper wheels. By far better than any other street tire for drag racing in the hot summer. When its 70 degree below they become as hard a brittle plastic.
So with this all pointed out the best street tire to achieve the best 0-60 mph and possibly the best 60foot for a turbo car is when it's cold. A UHP (ultra high performance) clasified, all season tire is likely the best tire to have. Turbo cars make tge most power when it's cold outside because cool air means more fuel and bigger combustion explosion/more hp.
With this stated anything below 1.8 -1.9 60foot on the street is impressive. For reference, a track racing friend with his dodge 392 Scat Pack on pure drag M&H tires typically pulls 1.59-1.72 60 foot with a prep track surface and that's with dragstrip rollout subtracted.
I know another person with a 500 plus rwhp Q50 set up for e30 and he runs Mickey Thompson $470 per tire E.T. Street R 305 width pure drag racing radials and he's told me he's seen 1.65 60foot per his dragy gps on the concrete street.
@Getting thru Life All of my times are dragy times. I have tried several tires with the same basic statistics as the DWS but not the same results. That X-CV spins to 60mph...lol. Rubber is very soft to the touch. Its shearing off. The DWS works on dry, wet and ice. Simply amazing tire. Id like to try the Extreme Contact Sport but doesn't come in 255/50 20. I am not willing to go below 30 inch diameter so that being said its hard for me to buy UHP tires for my truck. If it was slammed it would not look odd with a 28 or 29 inch tire but it does live a truck life. I lowered it a little, 2wd oem front strut assemblies, removed 4wd rear spacers, added 2 inch rear drop shackle, 2wd bump blocks and shocks. So it sets identical to a 2wd F150 up front, 2 inches lower than oem 2wd in the rear. 30 inch tire is on the fringe of funny looking...lol.
@Lil 2.7 I don't race around anymore. Since the pandemic days and expensive premium fuel i have chilled out lost interest. My best 0-60 mph was 3.82 sec and best 60 foot summer 1.87 dragy. Traffic in Texas is nightmarish as other states people move here and border crossing reaches highest numbers in history. Driving fast is risky and could mean if you are caught and or you kill/injure someone while police think you were driving dangerously means you can go to prison.
There is no reason this car needs r888r 😂😂
I smoke mine all of first gear back to back to back runs on concrete (summer heat) while using LC. Trying to launch hard is disappointing. I've run these for a few years now (take them off for cooler months/winter). In my experience the R888R tire are not enough but where better than the Nitto NT555R II tires. Per data from my dragy for my application/road/D.A. The only tire worth having for launching 500+ crank hp and 500+ torque at 3k rpm is the 275 to 305 M.T. E.T. Street R tires. If I had a bunch of money sitting on the table I'd buy two ET street R tires and likely hit 60ft 1.7 sec on the street and 0-60 mph at between 3.65 and 3.70 sec. My best currently with these R888R 285 tires is 1.87 60ft and 3.85 sec 0-60 mph with really just a 93 octane tune. Spinning the tires 90% of first gear too.
Not sure how someone can compare a 340 tire to a wider 100 and compare grip?
I made this video a while ago so it's not super fresh in my mind but I'm discussing more about grip/instant traction vs treadwear rating. The Toyo UHP tire is 100 treadwear meaning in the general sense, it's a grippier feeling rubber compound but wears down faster because the lower treadwear rating. The Firestone Indy 500 tire is the 340 rated treadwear tire and of course is less grippy with less traction. All 3 tires are summer only tires but just 2 are considered UHP tire due to low treadwear rating. Generally people claim this Firestone Indy tire to be better than it is, at least from my testing and personal use. It is not a good street racing tire option likely because of its higher treadwear rating.
The Nitto NT555 R II tire is labeled a hybrid drag radial tire and it is rated close to 100 treadwear tire compound but for my specific driving, my road surfaces, my application, my weather the Toyo R8888R tire was better, resulted in the quicker acceleration every time measured by dragy gps.
There are no 340 "width" tires discussed in this video so i never compared a tire of tgese extreme width. There are only 2, 275 width and one 285 width. The width difference is 10mm. Not enough in my opinion to skew my results or the video content.
What kind of exhaust did you go with? I just put on my stillen catback, ams intakes last weekend. Plan on doing lower downpipe this weekend. Im installing a tablet type top screen seeing as that the 2016 didn't come with android auto. I need a good tire also. What are the specs of your rims how wide are they? In the rear
I went with the 15310 street performance x-pioe Magnaflow CBE because of its low rumble, no drone, and quiet interior sound. I'm still very very happy with it. Has resonators and high flow muffler. The x-pipe smooths out the sound and provides extra low end grunt.
My aftermarket Verde wheels I went with are 8.5 front and 10" wide rear. Absolutely nothing wider would fit with +42 offset. This 285 Toyo tire is the max that my car in the rear world can accept with out possible damage if the wheel&tire travel up far enough. I'm stock ride height so that gives me more clearance to work with.
There are videos on everything I've done if you want to see more content.
Dang. I’m putting 285s. They will look sick!
I like the 285 tire look with the +43mm offset 10inch wide rear wheel. A proper fit and looks good from the rear view. In reality, a 305 tire looks funny or out of place on an Infiniti Q50 sedan.
Would you say R555RII have better traction/grip than R888R after using both?
My R888R rear tire allowed me to get faster 60foot and 0-60mph times than the Nittos. Now I never did standing burnouts but after trying many launches with both the tires got heat put in them.
Now that years have passed and I have more experience in general, I'd skip the Nitto and Toyo. In winter you will get much better performance times because dry and cool temps. Problem is summer tires absolutly suck in temps under 70 degress. Better to buy all season UHP tires so way better traction in the 35-70 degrees. If you want the best race oriented tire pretty much avaliable, can do burn out to heat up too as it's designed for standing burnout. The downside, absolutly not highway trip tire and 100% not a rain tire. Best traction radial tire is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R and then there's a Pro E T. Street R.
For pure street tire, summer tire id look at the new Bridgestones and of course Goodyear and Michelin UHP tires.
(What I have observed with my R888R tires is in a short amount of time in the environment/weather, the R888R tire compound hardens over time. Allow these tires to see 20-40 degree temps even if sitting in your garage, they get in a sense damaged.
@@GettingthruLife I am at 450hp was debating if going Toyo or Nitto. Guess Toyo it is! Thanks for the review
@davidoviedo664 from all my results and trial per my dragy I got into 1.87 60 foot and 3.85 0-60 rwd still spinning the tires. The toyo would spin but just translated into more forward drive. The Toyo R888R TIRES are really autocross tires. They shine when it's 90 and 100 dresses outside. They like a hot surface. All street tires are not made to endure standing burnouts. Drag slicks/drag tires are built with burnouts in mind. Why I don't do dry standing burnouts.
My Nitto tires were in the mid 4.3-4.5 sec 0-60mph. 60 foot at the drag strip on their street strip and tune night, Nittos got a 2.1 60foot.
I'm at about 450 whp current. Back then during the video I was running about 433 whp.
We’re all tired same size?
All were 19" dia. Nitto NT555R II was 275/40R19 width, brand new just available the month I bought them from Nitto for 19". The Firestone Indy 500, way inferior tire to the other 2 plus cheaper, Firestone's were 275/40R19. The Toyo Proxes R888R was a 285/35ZR19. The Toyo (summertime only) provided the best 0-60mph and 60 foot (3.85sec 0-60 / 1.87 60ft no rollout) Just a 93 tune, AMS airbox kit with Magnaflow CBE 500hp/500+ torque.
Nice bro , which tires you recommend for track and street
There is no short answer here. Out of the three tires in my video the Toyo R888R provided me the best Dragy GPS 0-60mph and 60 ft by a sizeable margin. Everything I say here is based on my car, my weather/D.A. and the surface here which I try for concrete where all concrete is not the same. For performance numbers the Firestone brand offered the least traction per dragy data by a lot.
My non-professional recommendation from my own data and research plus let's say 500+ hours of youtube videos over years and research, I say this:
(Tires have gotten way way more expensive in last 2 years) For daily driving with normal level of spirited driving in a busy large city buy any one of the good, brand name HP tire (summer/winter) based on your seasons and weather. *dont need UHP tires (Ultra high performance)
if you want to get your fastest acceleration times in the cooler weather shoot for a top tier UHP (ultra high performance) all season tire in climates 75 degree and below. Cooler temps going into the motor mean more power and most of the time lower D.A. verses a warm/hot day.
For pure summer heat & weather spend the big bucks and go UHP summer 100 -200 treadwear rated. For curve carving, g-force in the terms and for more spirited drivers with more hp. (These types of tires with sizes 255 - 285 width generally rwd won't hold traction below 30mph 430+ whp and 500+ torque at 2700-3000 rpm) Better grip for corners and road course use.
For pure traction/acceleration (street-strip) during dry only the pretty much only option is the Mickey Thompson E.T. street R "radial" tire. Very expensive and now harder to get.
For all-out drag strip racing on a closed street or at the dragstrip and not recommended drive 65-75mph on the highway to and from the track are pure drag spec tires radial and bias ply from Mickey Thompson, Hoosier and M&H.
From what I've learned with 5 different sets of street tires (some 2 tires only (rwd) and some all four front and rear) with my tuned 445whp/512 torque 3.0T Q50) is the Toyo R888R's are fairly good but I would not buy again for what I specifically wanted to do. Only good for a 90+ degree day. They don't work as designed or stay soft in 75 and below degree weather. [also each car/truck platform is different: suspension, linkage, diff, transmissions, weight distribution and gearing to name a few. What works on one vehicle likely doesn't work as well for another so people love to chime in with their ignorance]. I would not buy the Nitto NT555R II tires again unless you are talking 305 to 315 width which don't work for me or in my opinion look right on my car. 305 rear tires with just the right -50 wheel offset can work but it's a compromise. Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R drag radials 275/285 are near the best on either a 10" or up to 11" wide wheel.
@@GettingthruLife thank you
Wat size tire are u running?
I've been running the rear 285x19x35, Nitto R888R and I spin them most of first with LC set 3.1-3.2k rmp but at least i'm moving forward to still get 3.8 sec 0-60 street 93 tune and 60 foot 1.8 best I have been able to do but done on the regular old street.
R888R is more for looks than performance compared to the competition they look great but that is about it……
So far the Toyo R888R tire has been the best performer for 60ft, 0-60mph and 20/30mph punches. Only tire that i hear is more grippy/better is the Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R. I've heard some using and liking the Goodyear F1 Supercar 3 tire. With this said I'm not blown away with the R888R tire and I would not generally buy again. The M.T. E.T. Street R is the best tire for the specific job per a radial tire.
So if my tire is 245/40/19x9.5 a 275 would fit my rim?
since you have 245/40/19 fronts those should be 26.7 outer diameter. So say if you went with Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS you would pick the 275/35R19 that's 26.6 outer diameter. This way you are .2-.3 with in size difference. My go-to tires size online website to check tire ratios is tiresize.com
Z1 collar help with launching that much?
I'd say yes, they are a nice addition to cut down on wheel hop from launching hard plus they tighten up the rear end feel and response of the car.
Can't u put these on stock rims they look much. Enter than these
They could fit on Q50 sport wheel rear 9.5" but my factory 8.5" wheels officially can't run a 275 width tire. The big tire shops with bigger liability won't install 275 tire on anything smaller than a 8" wide wheel. 285 tires like the Toyo R888R require a 9.5" or maybe a 10" wide wheel like I have when I bought my rear Verde VFF01 wheels.
@@GettingthruLife I have the 2021 sig with the 19 in 8.5 what's the widest I can go keeping the stock chrome wheels I just want the tires to go outside the fender a Lil bit u know
@@NYCQ50 legally per a good tire shop they can only mount a 255 wide tire on a 8.5" wheel. You can find smaller shops that don't follow the guidelines, I did find a couple independently own shops that would mount 275 with tires on my factory dark- chrome wheels.
To get the wheels and tire to stick out past the fenders you will need to buy a wheel with less positive offset like +20. My rear 10" wheels are +42 offset with 285x19×35 and in the rear just ride outside the body.
My front are 245×19x40 at +38 offset and the wheel and tire do not protrude outside of fenderwell, still sit inside the front fender.
@@GettingthruLife so will a 255 stick out a Lil u think or not on stock 19 in chrome wheels
@@NYCQ50 max I would go personally with 8.5 wheels front an rear is 255×40 front and 275x35 rear. I think the 40 series front and 35 series profile rear would be close in outer diameter as you want them front and rear pretty similar.
Do you still have the. 2 nittos .can you put it on ebay so i can buy it. And give me item number
I sold the two NT555RIi's on Facebook Market place for $400. Nitto lowered the price on these about $35 per tire after about 2 months after I bought them so I had to sell my used ones for a little less.
$330 😂 man nowadays i cant find ones for me for less than $450-500
Tire prices went up so much during and after covid sham. To now buy the only set of 0-30-0-60 tires, M.T. ET Street R, nearly $500 a tire. All three of these tires in this video are inferior now and where. I still have my Pirelli 245x19 summer 240 TW and they are good daily tires.
how much were your set of wheels? without tires lol
The Verde VFF01's with my 2 x 8.5" +38 offset fronts and 2 x 10" +42 offset rear cost 1,415 + $105 shipping + 125 tax = $1,646 plus they gave me a $80 discount included in that amount.
I like you man, you show appreciation for things, unlike most content creators, I love my Q as well and I like the fact that you show care and precaution when working on your car is tight! Keep up the good work! Do you have an insta?
I appreciate this. I seem to get a fair amount of people who don't like me, my car or just life in general. There's always a few good comments and positive feedback so thanks again. Maybe I've lost some enthusiasm for making car videos because of this. Plus there is so little return or no return that you, the person sending the money for mods will ever see again. if I had a better income source there would be many cool things I'd like to have done or do. One of them would have been to buy these +50 offset Weld racing Belmont Drag
S157 10" wide wheels and likely 285 Mickey Thompson E.T. Street R drag radials. This would have been the biggest gain next to the Ecutek 93 octane tuning. Wheels are 410.00 a piece and the M.T. E.T tires likely $390 a piece and then $200 mount/balance. A lot of money that I cant afford to spend now. I currently have 10" wide rear wheels Verde VFF01's but they have my Toyo R888R mounted and mated to front new Toyo UHP all season tire plus my 4 other wheels with Pirelli P-zero summer tires but 245 width all four.
no instgram, FB and youtube are my onlyways to share. I don't vibe with Instagram and tic-tok (which might be going away soon) or twitter.
That’s because you aren’t the typical nonchalant “oh I don’t care about anything and I have free money because I don’t pay rent and live in my parents basement and have a 24% apr but it doesn’t matter because I’m just gonna total my car in a g*y ass takeover anyway” attitude, you’re a real guy, don’t be discouraged by the hate, that’s how you know you’re doing something worth while. What’s your Facebook? Or is it personal, no worries either way I’ve already subbed
@@nahfam1285 Yep there seem to be people that might be older too but never grew up to adulthood or they just have a horrible life. One joker replied simply, You talk too much and then one person said my face looked fat. That's all they said. Out of the blue one individual hinted he was looking at Redsports but from my 500hp dyno video and 513 torque said he was so glad he went with his much better and faster used BMW. This is what you get for trying to have fun and just make content to share. Crazy world we have been living in for years now.