I literally JUST finished developing with this product literally 5 minutes ago. I finished three rolls. Two Ilford HP5+ 400 and one Rollei RPX 100. These rolls will be my first ever rolls of B&W film shot through my first SLR camera (a Pentax P3N). I've shot color before, but only on a point and shoot. This video has been up on my screen and was a HUGE help. Could not have done it without you. The negatives look like they turned out great! I'll be using a v600 and silverfast with lightroom to get the finished editied images. THANK YOU so so much. You are a legend.
I love using Kodak HC-110. Incredibly long shelf life. I've had my 1L bottle for years and still use it with no issues. Compatible with many film stocks and the dilution makes it super cost effective. It lasts forever and I save a lot of money by using water as a stop bath. HC-110 is my favorite developer, by far.
i use Rodinal which is basically the same thing, i read somewhere that someone even used a 30yrs old opened bottle and it worked, you can even make extremes dilutions to save it even more
I’m new to developing. If I develop two films in the same tank is that considered two uses for chemicals or one use? Idk if it makes sense but if I developed both film at the same time in the same tank should that be one use?
No. (1) Plastic bottle are subject to penetration by oxygen (slowly) and the degree of such depends on the surface area of bottle exposed to air. All of those little folds give the flex bottle a huge increase in such surface area. (2) Developers and fixers produce by-products which adhere to the inside walls. They have to be scrubbed to clean, and the flex bottle are practically imposable to scrub out. (3) They cost about four times as much as a same volume bottle designed for chemical storage in amber glass. Photoflo mixed down to use dilution is inert. You can store it in anything clean. However, it is so cheap, and its main virtue is its cleanliness, so I'd just mix for use and toss after use to avoid contamination and grit.
I really struggle with this product and my negatives are always underexposed and foggy. I follow the instructions but sadly have not had a decent set of negatives. For something so simple I am lost at what I’m doing wrong 😢
@@film_friends sweet, thank you! I’m about to order all the supplies to do my own developing so I’ve been watching all your vids for tips! I did a bit of developing in college but I’m excited to try it out on my own!
Yay! That’s so great! I’m so glad I could help! If you use any of my links it supports the channel :) every little bit helps you are the best! Please hit me up on IG DMs if you need any direct help!
Hey! I’ve shot on fresh Lomo earlgrey 100 35mm film, and tried to develop using cinestill monobath DF96, And then I’ve developed it for 6 minutes at 70F temperature With minimal agitation of 4turns every 30 seconds. As I checked online and it said Lomo earlgrey 100 and Arista EDU Ultra 100 are equivalent films, So I’ve developed it according to Arista EDU. But the film got underdeveloped! I can barely see the images and the image numbers too. Any idea what’s the cause? The last time I’ve developed Tmax 100 expired film for 12 mins at 70F according to the chart sheet Cinestill shows and it’s developed properly, and Yes it’s been like 15 days since I’ve mixed the chemicals and yeah I’ve added 45sec more to the dev time which is 6.45 mins as this is my 4th time developing
Great video mate. I tried monobath and really didn't have much luck. I think maybe I ballsed up dissolving the chemicals, or something. I just didn't have any luck with it. I've been developing with paranol now, it seems much better! Great video mate!
Hi, you increase time by 15sec every roll or every tank? Because a tank can take 2 or more films. So if you have a double tank you should increase by 30sec every time?
Monobath is easy to use and highly reliable for results, which tends to attract new folks to B&W photography. That alone justifies its existence IMO. Once those newbies get comfortable with processing, they will probably move on to conventional developers and process to attain the flexibility and control over density and contrast unavailable with monobaths. dF96 give a result similar to D-76, which is good, but costs about four times as much as conventional chemistry on a cost per roll basis, which is bad, and it has a short shelf life in use. All of this means that most folks who start with it will move on unless they drop out all together.
Hello is it better to leave the film in tank longer or shorter? bcs when i stick to the time written on the bag it sometimes happens to me that i wash away the picture like its not fixated (i used the powder kit twice with the foma fompan 100)
@@ShawnMKnox yeah i got one, tho i didn't ship it from cinestill directly, it'd've been about the same price, i luckily had a friend in the states that bought me one and brought it here
Is the df96 worth it as a hobby photographer maybe doing 6-8 rolls/4x5s a month? Any issues? I’ve seen some muddy results on UA-cam and can’t tell if it’s processing or photo taking. Thanks
I think so. I think of B&w is all you do and you have an intensive workflow, then maybe you should have something more professional. I like the look of it
Hello Will, reat video, I was no aware, such a B&W developer existed . I'll have to check it out. Question on agitation , I'm photograph g fall colors this year on film. Watched your video on c41 processing , and that convinced me to give it a go. Coming from processing B&W, many years, I prefer to agitate , using the twister stick . With c41, my Paterson tank will be in and out of the warm water bath, so I'd want to continue using the twister stick , versa the iinversion method. Any issue here ? Let's say, I'm a little obsessed with sloppiness. I know the Cinestill instructions reference inverion method, but does it really matter, as long as it is done in the proper time frame ? KEEP the great development video coming . KB
After 56 years of darkroom experience. Big tip. Do not use photoflo when film is on reels and or in tank. It cause after a while foaming of developer from a sticky residue left on reels or tank. It Will Cause major problems with film development in the future
That is a fun experience comment. I really dont know of a way to apply it if youdont do it in the tank. should you spray it on or somehow wipe the film hung?
My problem with this developer is that it leads to more grain (not an issue if you love grain but I don't). Also, the edge sharpness is not a good as D76 or XTOL. This leads to the negatives looking softer.
yeah, i just dont think about it. the film leader retriever works really well. its good to go all the way in so you cont confused a used roll with a new one
According to the directions printed on the bottle...you can develop uo to 16 rolls of film. Not use it 16 times that would mean 32 rolls of film. The chemicals would be used up after the 16 rolls and your film would be ruined. The instructions also state you have two months to use the chemicals after it's been opened. When the air contacts the chemicals it begins to degrade it. That's why you must use it within two months after opening the bottle. Read the directions carefully. If you don't understand any of it call the customer service number and ASK. There's nothing worse than ruining the negatives because you didn't read or understand the instructions.
@@samuelvodicka8441 advice I've seen is to count every 35mm roll as 1 and 120 rolls as 2. So start with your initial 16 developments allotted and for every roll of 35mm you develop subtract 1 and for every 120 roll subtract 2. Add 15 seconds to the total development time for each 35mm roll and 30 seconds for each 120 roll.
Good presentation! But... My advice is to refrain from wearing a watch in the change bag. One call, one incidental touch of one knob and the films will be ruined.
I am unable to share the enthusiasm for this stuff. At first it sounds great of course, developer and fixing in one step. But the results are less than commendable, lots of grain, lack of sharpness, short shelf life, expensive. D76 or Rodinal for low iso film is the way to go, sorry, nothing better yet.
This video was nice but it's profoundly annoying that you just continue repeating to go watch the other video and talk about leaving details out. Like I'm not gonna lie, this video helped me. But I'm not being gimmicked into watching more ads for you when I'm here to learn.
I made an hour long video about developing film. this covered how to use this specific chemical. You learning adventure is up to you. These videos are free to watch. Comments like this make me laugh so much. I get questions all the time on stuff and I redirect them to a video I have already made on the topic and people get mad about watching a second video. makes no since. I can't make a video on every edge case. maybe someone is mad that i showed developing but didnt show the final product in scanning? or maybe i shoulda showed how i shot these photos? or maybe this video should have talked just about what the chemical does and not show you anything else. haha i can please everyone, but i can help direct you through your learning journey in developing film on this channel.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I literally JUST finished developing with this product literally 5 minutes ago. I finished three rolls. Two Ilford HP5+ 400 and one Rollei RPX 100. These rolls will be my first ever rolls of B&W film shot through my first SLR camera (a Pentax P3N). I've shot color before, but only on a point and shoot.
This video has been up on my screen and was a HUGE help. Could not have done it without you. The negatives look like they turned out great! I'll be using a v600 and silverfast with lightroom to get the finished editied images. THANK YOU so so much. You are a legend.
That’s awesome dude!! So glad I could help! Thanks for the support!
I never thought of pre loading the reel. What a great idea!!
Preloading makes it soooo easy
That film leader finder is the coolest thing I've ever seen!
It rocks
@ once’s it a little out can you pull the whole thing out of the canister when you are in a dark bag?
I’ve found that constant agitation at 80 degrees avoids streaks.
Some machines roll constantly. this is just the recommended for this tank
I love using Kodak HC-110. Incredibly long shelf life. I've had my 1L bottle for years and still use it with no issues. Compatible with many film stocks and the dilution makes it super cost effective. It lasts forever and I save a lot of money by using water as a stop bath. HC-110 is my favorite developer, by far.
Great to hear!
i use Rodinal which is basically the same thing, i read somewhere that someone even used a 30yrs old opened bottle and it worked, you can even make extremes dilutions to save it even more
I’m new to developing. If I develop two films in the same tank is that considered two uses for chemicals or one use? Idk if it makes sense but if I developed both film at the same time in the same tank should that be one use?
It would count as 2 uses but you shouldn’t really change anything about times due to that.
Great video , thanks . Daughter is looking to try 35mm b&w , just found I can buy the Monobath here in the UK , should make life easier . Subscribed
Go for it! its so easy!
Is it possible to over develop with DF96
yeah
What backdrop do you use and very knowledgeable appreciation it dude
So glad I could help! This is just some simple paper backdrop from b&h. This is like a neutral sand color
I did order the Film Leader Retriever, you're right, using a bottle opener on 35mm film is dumb.
hahaha yes. idk why i did it for a few months when I started haha
Hello, can this developer work with fomapan 35mm 100,, I am waiting for a response, thank you..
They have a list of the associated filmstocks on their website
@1willcobb do you recommend using the collapsable bottles for the photoflo and the Monobath?
You don’t need them for those two but if you like fun bottles then yes!
No. (1) Plastic bottle are subject to penetration by oxygen (slowly) and the degree of such depends on the surface area of bottle exposed to air. All of those little folds give the flex bottle a huge increase in such surface area. (2) Developers and fixers produce by-products which adhere to the inside walls. They have to be scrubbed to clean, and the flex bottle are practically imposable to scrub out. (3) They cost about four times as much as a same volume bottle designed for chemical storage in amber glass. Photoflo mixed down to use dilution is inert. You can store it in anything clean. However, it is so cheap, and its main virtue is its cleanliness, so I'd just mix for use and toss after use to avoid contamination and grit.
I really struggle with this product and my negatives are always underexposed and foggy. I follow the instructions but sadly have not had a decent set of negatives. For something so simple I am lost at what I’m doing wrong 😢
yeah, I don't think it nails it as much as a full cycle through black and white chemicals but I think tit works well for what it is.
Have you ever used the lab box? I’d be I treated in a video in that. I just ordered one used for $100 so hopefully it works
No I really want to though! I might get one in the summer!
I did but could not get it to work. Followed the instructions but the film was blank. Went back to a tank.
Is it okay to use the same tank for both color and b&w chemicals?
YeAh! Just not at the same time, good rinse in between and your good!
@@film_friends sweet, thank you! I’m about to order all the supplies to do my own developing so I’ve been watching all your vids for tips! I did a bit of developing in college but I’m excited to try it out on my own!
Yay! That’s so great! I’m so glad I could help! If you use any of my links it supports the channel :) every little bit helps you are the best! Please hit me up on IG DMs if you need any direct help!
Hey! I’ve shot on fresh Lomo earlgrey 100 35mm film, and tried to develop using cinestill monobath DF96, And then I’ve developed it for 6 minutes at 70F temperature With minimal agitation of 4turns every 30 seconds. As I checked online and it said Lomo earlgrey 100 and Arista EDU Ultra 100 are equivalent films, So I’ve developed it according to Arista EDU. But the film got underdeveloped! I can barely see the images and the image numbers too. Any idea what’s the cause? The last time I’ve developed Tmax 100 expired film for 12 mins at 70F according to the chart sheet Cinestill shows and it’s developed properly, and Yes it’s been like 15 days since I’ve mixed the chemicals and yeah I’ve added 45sec more to the dev time which is 6.45 mins as this is my 4th time developing
I don’t personally know that film that well. It might have just been something with LOMOs processing of the film
Great video mate.
I tried monobath and really didn't have much luck. I think maybe I ballsed up dissolving the chemicals, or something. I just didn't have any luck with it.
I've been developing with paranol now, it seems much better!
Great video mate!
Sorry to hear that! I havnt mixed my own b&w yet just this already made stuff. It’s working okay!
@@film_friends I think most people have some pretty positive results- I did two rolls through it, so I think its user error rather then the monobath
Hmmmm try again! Haha
Hi, you increase time by 15sec every roll or every tank? Because a tank can take 2 or more films. So if you have a double tank you should increase by 30sec every time?
Yes
But it’s not an exact science. When you get to like 20-30 rolls the numbers get huge so it doesn’t have to be as big that later on
@@film_friends as always knowledge comes with experiments! Thank you for your help!!!
@@honda53cm Thank you!
Thank you!!!
Dumb question: if you develop two rolls at once it still counts as two rolls for the chemical life, right?
Yes! Good question
@@film_friends I was wondering the same thing. Do you have to add an extra 15 seconds the first time you do it if you use two rolls?
No. It’s kinda something you don’t really have to do until like 6-8 rolls have been done
Stuff is pretty great. Unfortunately it appears to be a sin to a lot of people to even consider a monobath to develop b&w. No clue why
Yeah idk why. Super weird.
Monobath is easy to use and highly reliable for results, which tends to attract new folks to B&W photography. That alone justifies its existence IMO. Once those newbies get comfortable with processing, they will probably move on to conventional developers and process to attain the flexibility and control over density and contrast unavailable with monobaths. dF96 give a result similar to D-76, which is good, but costs about four times as much as conventional chemistry on a cost per roll basis, which is bad, and it has a short shelf life in use. All of this means that most folks who start with it will move on unless they drop out all together.
Hello is it better to leave the film in tank longer or shorter? bcs when i stick to the time written on the bag it sometimes happens to me that i wash away the picture like its not fixated (i used the powder kit twice with the foma fompan 100)
shorter will be under exposed and longer over, I am not sure what is happening with yours, i would prob say it isn't mixed all the way
Great video, I just wish there was a Cinestill provider that brought Df96 where I live, shipping costs about $80USD for here
That’s so lame! Yeah so many small film companies ya know
There is a powered version. Should be cheap to ship.
@@ShawnMKnox yeah i got one, tho i didn't ship it from cinestill directly, it'd've been about the same price, i luckily had a friend in the states that bought me one and brought it here
Always good to have a friend ship it haha
@@film_friends yessss i saved 60 dollars lmao
Is the df96 worth it as a hobby photographer maybe doing 6-8 rolls/4x5s a month? Any issues? I’ve seen some muddy results on UA-cam and can’t tell if it’s processing or photo taking. Thanks
I think so. I think of B&w is all you do and you have an intensive workflow, then maybe you should have something more professional. I like the look of it
Hello Will, reat video, I was no aware, such a B&W developer existed . I'll have to check it out. Question on agitation , I'm photograph g fall colors this year on film. Watched your video on c41 processing , and that convinced me to give it a go. Coming from processing B&W, many years, I prefer to agitate , using the twister stick . With c41, my Paterson tank will be in and out of the warm water bath, so I'd want to continue using the twister stick , versa the iinversion method. Any issue here ? Let's say, I'm a little obsessed with sloppiness. I know the Cinestill instructions reference inverion method, but does it really matter, as long as it is done in the proper time frame ?
KEEP the great development video coming . KB
So it helps move the liquid over the film. Where as the stir stick just sloshes it a bit. Also, inversion make sure there is no air at the top
@@film_friends Ok, so ill use inversion for C41. Thanks.KB
After 56 years of darkroom experience. Big tip. Do not use photoflo when film is on reels and or in tank. It cause after a while foaming of developer from a sticky residue left on reels or tank. It Will Cause major problems with film development in the future
That is a fun experience comment. I really dont know of a way to apply it if youdont do it in the tank. should you spray it on or somehow wipe the film hung?
Can you preload 120?
No!
Don’t do it
My problem with this developer is that it leads to more grain (not an issue if you love grain but I don't). Also, the edge sharpness is not a good as D76 or XTOL. This leads to the negatives looking softer.
I do feel that way too
Don’t wind your film all the way into the cartridge when you rewind the film in camera.
yeah, i just dont think about it. the film leader retriever works really well. its good to go all the way in so you cont confused a used roll with a new one
According to the directions printed on the bottle...you can develop uo to 16 rolls of film. Not use it 16 times that would mean 32 rolls of film. The chemicals would be used up after the 16 rolls and your film would be ruined.
The instructions also state you have two months to use the chemicals after it's been opened.
When the air contacts the chemicals it begins to degrade it. That's why you must use it within two months after opening the bottle.
Read the directions carefully. If you don't understand any of it call the customer service number and ASK.
There's nothing worse than ruining the negatives because you didn't read or understand the instructions.
Totally 💯
Hey i don't quite understand the 16 rolls. Does it mean 16 rolls of 35mm and 8 rolls of 120mm?
@@samuelvodicka8441 advice I've seen is to count every 35mm roll as 1 and 120 rolls as 2. So start with your initial 16 developments allotted and for every roll of 35mm you develop subtract 1 and for every 120 roll subtract 2. Add 15 seconds to the total development time for each 35mm roll and 30 seconds for each 120 roll.
Good presentation!
But... My advice is to refrain from wearing a watch in the change bag. One call, one incidental touch of one knob and the films will be ruined.
great tip! i dont normally wear my watch anyways! and it gets in the way when developing.
I’ve checked the compatibility list but I didn’t see “Shanghai Gp3 100” 35mm film on it. Do you think it’ll work ?
I am not sure about that!
SO disappointed you didn't break into "once, twice, three times a lady...." at 9:13.
Dannng missed opportunity:(
I am unable to share the enthusiasm for this stuff. At first it sounds great of course, developer and fixing in one step. But the results are less than commendable, lots of grain, lack of sharpness, short shelf life, expensive. D76 or Rodinal for low iso film is the way to go, sorry, nothing better yet.
seems pretty great
This video was nice but it's profoundly annoying that you just continue repeating to go watch the other video and talk about leaving details out.
Like I'm not gonna lie, this video helped me. But I'm not being gimmicked into watching more ads for you when I'm here to learn.
I made an hour long video about developing film. this covered how to use this specific chemical. You learning adventure is up to you. These videos are free to watch. Comments like this make me laugh so much. I get questions all the time on stuff and I redirect them to a video I have already made on the topic and people get mad about watching a second video. makes no since. I can't make a video on every edge case. maybe someone is mad that i showed developing but didnt show the final product in scanning? or maybe i shoulda showed how i shot these photos? or maybe this video should have talked just about what the chemical does and not show you anything else.
haha i can please everyone, but i can help direct you through your learning journey in developing film on this channel.
Is he saying "fartography" on purpose?
What?