Fantastic and informative video! I just finished a swingarm bearing replacement on a 2003 350 Rancher. Then I watched your video and realized I missed a couple of things, but now I can correct them. Great tool you made for removing the locking collar. I also discovered I had engine oil in the drives haft tube. Engine runs great, but I should probably replace the seal you mentioned before it's to late.
I wasn't looking for it, but this is exactly what I needed! Boy 17mm Allen, thought it looked funny. I think this seal was my problem as well. I had to rebuild my upper.
Thank you thank you for your video! Been putting this off for weeks because I couldn't find and good info on how to do it. I been trying like crazy to take the rusted up lock nut off thinking it needed to come off before the bolt. Had it apart in no time.
Saved my ass again, tor mine apart months ago, finally got around to putting it back together, had locking nut on wrong side, couldnt understand why swing arm wasnt centering up for me.
i'm in the process of taking off my cam cover to replace the chain and stuff. i got to the last cover bolt and realized the output shaft it holding it on haha. now i'm wondering if its easier to remove the swingarm, or remove the engine. maybe not worth it with the specialty tools required
Thanks for the video. I just bought a used 09 Foreman 500 and one of my first tasks is to replace the swing arm bearings. I was envisioning having to remove most of the plastic to gain access to the nuts, Will I be able to work around the fenders as you did on the 350? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hey I have a honda like this where the swingarm has tons of play in it. I can email you a photo if you'd like. Wondering if you know what I can do to fix it? It moves side to side
Yes if it moves side to side up by where the pivot bolts are then your swingarm bearings are bad. You can fix them but it's tough to get the outer race out of the swing arm. You almost have to have a welder and a blind bearing puller in order to get those out.
We’re are u getting ur info in my 350 rancher manual no we’re does it say to tighten the right side at 30 something inch lbs Install the grease holder into the swingarm pivot.Drive in a new bearing squarely until it is fullyseated.TOOLS:DriverAttachment, 3740 mmPilot, 17 mmPack 3 g (0.1 oz) of grease into each bearing cavityand grease holder.Apply grease to new dust seal lips and install theminto the swingarm pivot until they are flush with thepivot end, using the same tools.INSTALLATIONApply molybdenum disulfide grease to the outputshaft spline and install the universal joint onto theoutput shaft.Set the swingarm into the frame and install the leftand right pivot bolts.Tighten the left pivot bolt.TORQUE:118 N·m (12.0 kgf·m , 87 lbf·ft)Tighten the right pivot bolt.TORQUE:4 N·m (0.4 kgf·m , 2.9 lbf·ft)Move the swingarm up and down several times toseat the pivot bearings.Retighten the pivot bolts to the same torque
Thanks for watching man and yeah I agree with you cameras pretty rough. This is one of my first videos and I was just learning so I was just trying to get the information out there. I thought about going back and remaking some of these old ones to make the camera movement less sporadic.
So I got an 07 Honda Trx 250ex with the shaft drive, now I’ve just replaced the bearings into the swing arm, upon putting the swing arm up to the frame pivot points there seems to be a gap in between the bearing seal and pivot bolt housing. Is that normal or does that sound like it’s been tweaked? I want to make it right and not do the job twice.
There will often times be a small gap less than a quarter inch. if you have a gap bigger than that make sure your pivot bolts have slid inside the bearings. Also make sure the torque on the right pivot bolt is not too much.
So do you not have to remove the lock but first before removing the 17mm hex? The lock nut can stay on there and then be pulled off after the fact on the bench? No damage done that way? I thought the whole point of the luck but is so that the hex can’t be undone?
@@FourwheelerDoctor thank you. Did the trick. Pulled it off and did my repair. When reinstalling and following the torquing of 83ft left, then 7ft right, move swingarm up and down and then do the lock nut at 83ft lbs. I noticed a gap between swingarm and frame on right side. I would assume this is normal? I can’t recall what it was before as I never checked.. doh
@@TheSponge945 yes sometimes they do have more gap on one side more than the other. If you got it torqued to spec and locked the lock nut you should be good.
my swing arm bearings are slightly moving back and fourth no noises or weird driving it runs and drives good but they need to be replaced can i still ride if they need to be replaced ? ill replace them but in the mean time want to still cruise arojnd
They can fall apart pretty quickly some times. I have seen the bearings fall out and the swingarm move to one side far enough for the pivot pin to clear the swingarm and the rear end fall off. As you can imagine it tore up a bunch when this happened. I wouldn't ride yours much if you have much movement.
@@FourwheelerDoctor it’s a 03 honda rancher 350es 2x4 when i life rear end up and move side to side it’s really not horrible there’s just a little bit of play but i don’t want to rag on it i’m saying like night cruises and just riding 15-20 mph down dirt roads and stuff it’s not making and noises and it doesn’t after the driving or pull to any side but what bearing kit would you recommend for my model
@@tdaman6417 you really don't have to loosen it. If you put the 17 mm hex in there with a big ratchet it will break it loose backing it off. Once you get it out make sure it will screw in and screw out easily. Put it back on and tighten down the the pivot bolt to spec. Then spin the lock nut with a screwdriver or a pair of needle nose pliers until it tightens up. Then you can take a chisel and hit the edge of the lock nut until it is very tight. I used to do that on the old ones I did before I had the tool
You can but I have found it easier to loosen the center bolt first. I have messed up the lock nut before just trying to get them loose then I figured out it could be loosened later
Fantastic and informative video! I just finished a swingarm bearing replacement on a 2003 350 Rancher. Then I watched your video and realized I missed a couple of things, but now I can correct them. Great tool you made for removing the locking collar. I also discovered I had engine oil in the drives haft tube. Engine runs great, but I should probably replace the seal you mentioned before it's to late.
I wasn't looking for it, but this is exactly what I needed! Boy 17mm Allen, thought it looked funny. I think this seal was my problem as well. I had to rebuild my upper.
Thank you thank you for your video! Been putting this off for weeks because I couldn't find and good info on how to do it. I been trying like crazy to take the rusted up lock nut off thinking it needed to come off before the bolt. Had it apart in no time.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad I could help
Saved my ass again, tor mine apart months ago, finally got around to putting it back together, had locking nut on wrong side, couldnt understand why swing arm wasnt centering up for me.
Glad I could help!!
Thanks much for posting this video!
Thank you, your videos are a tremendous help
Thanks and Thanks for watching.
A LOT OF GOOD INFORMATION
i'm in the process of taking off my cam cover to replace the chain and stuff. i got to the last cover bolt and realized the output shaft it holding it on haha. now i'm wondering if its easier to remove the swingarm, or remove the engine. maybe not worth it with the specialty tools required
What’s that seal part number mines leaking and need a part number can’t find it anywhere
That seal that you replaced what is it called? I cannot find it. Thanks.
Nice video will this work for a 2005 Honda foreman 500
Yes this is the same process for a straight axle foreman 500.
do you have link for the seal and the boot by chance?
Thanks for the video. I just bought a used 09 Foreman 500 and one of my first tasks is to replace the swing arm bearings. I was envisioning having to remove most of the plastic to gain access to the nuts, Will I be able to work around the fenders as you did on the 350? Thanks in advance for any advice.
You may have to unbolt the rear of the floor boards but that should be it. That is if you can't work around them
Great video
Thanks! Keep checking back, I will posting many more.
Ty for sharing. Question. I'm assuming when tight. There are zero gaps on swingarm, as my is loose and has big gap.
Great video!!
Thanks and thanks for watching
Hey I have a honda like this where the swingarm has tons of play in it. I can email you a photo if you'd like. Wondering if you know what I can do to fix it? It moves side to side
Yes if it moves side to side up by where the pivot bolts are then your swingarm bearings are bad. You can fix them but it's tough to get the outer race out of the swing arm. You almost have to have a welder and a blind bearing puller in order to get those out.
We’re are u getting ur info in my 350 rancher manual no we’re does it say to tighten the right side at 30 something inch lbs Install the grease holder into the swingarm pivot.Drive in a new bearing squarely until it is fullyseated.TOOLS:DriverAttachment, 3740 mmPilot, 17 mmPack 3 g (0.1 oz) of grease into each bearing cavityand grease holder.Apply grease to new dust seal lips and install theminto the swingarm pivot until they are flush with thepivot end, using the same tools.INSTALLATIONApply molybdenum disulfide grease to the outputshaft spline and install the universal joint onto theoutput shaft.Set the swingarm into the frame and install the leftand right pivot bolts.Tighten the left pivot bolt.TORQUE:118 N·m (12.0 kgf·m , 87 lbf·ft)Tighten the right pivot bolt.TORQUE:4 N·m (0.4 kgf·m , 2.9 lbf·ft)Move the swingarm up and down several times toseat the pivot bearings.Retighten the pivot bolts to the same torque
35 inch pounds converts to 2.91 ft lb. My ft lb torque wrench will don't go that low but I have an inch lb torque wrench that would.
Do I have to take the locking collar out to remove the swing arm?
No you can take the right side Allen out without unlocking the lock nut.
Good information but that camera action wow more than I can take.
Thanks for watching man and yeah I agree with you cameras pretty rough. This is one of my first videos and I was just learning so I was just trying to get the information out there. I thought about going back and remaking some of these old ones to make the camera movement less sporadic.
So I got an 07 Honda Trx 250ex with the shaft drive, now I’ve just replaced the bearings into the swing arm, upon putting the swing arm up to the frame pivot points there seems to be a gap in between the bearing seal and pivot bolt housing. Is that normal or does that sound like it’s been tweaked? I want to make it right and not do the job twice.
There will often times be a small gap less than a quarter inch. if you have a gap bigger than that make sure your pivot bolts have slid inside the bearings. Also make sure the torque on the right pivot bolt is not too much.
So do you not have to remove the lock but first before removing the 17mm hex? The lock nut can stay on there and then be pulled off after the fact on the bench? No damage done that way? I thought the whole point of the luck but is so that the hex can’t be undone?
You are correct. The hex can be removed first and can be done without loosening the lock first. Just try it, you will thank me later.
@@FourwheelerDoctor thank you. Did the trick. Pulled it off and did my repair. When reinstalling and following the torquing of 83ft left, then 7ft right, move swingarm up and down and then do the lock nut at 83ft lbs. I noticed a gap between swingarm and frame on right side. I would assume this is normal? I can’t recall what it was before as I never checked.. doh
@@TheSponge945 yes sometimes they do have more gap on one side more than the other. If you got it torqued to spec and locked the lock nut you should be good.
@@FourwheelerDoctor you got it doc. Thank you!
Why didn’t you just use a 23mm socket on brake lugs?
Are you talking about the adjuster nuts? I have never tried that before but I will.
my swing arm bearings are slightly moving back and fourth no noises or weird driving it runs and drives good but they need to be replaced can i still ride if they need to be replaced ? ill replace them but in the mean time want to still cruise arojnd
They can fall apart pretty quickly some times. I have seen the bearings fall out and the swingarm move to one side far enough for the pivot pin to clear the swingarm and the rear end fall off. As you can imagine it tore up a bunch when this happened. I wouldn't ride yours much if you have much movement.
@@FourwheelerDoctor it’s a 03 honda rancher 350es 2x4 when i life rear end up and move side to side it’s really not horrible there’s just a little bit of play but i don’t want to rag on it i’m saying like night cruises and just riding 15-20 mph down dirt roads and stuff it’s not making and noises and it doesn’t after the driving or pull to any side but what bearing kit would you recommend for my model
The oil that leaks out of the boot, is that engine oil?
It could come out of the engine or out of the differential. Most of the time it's the seal at the engine so it leaks engine oil into the swingarm.
Where exactly will your oil in your diff leak out of if you don’t drain the diff oil prior to doing the swingarm work
It will leak out the front of the diff where the drive shaft goes in.
@@FourwheelerDoctor if it’s tilted up will it leak from anywhere ?
?
@@tdaman6417 no it won't leak if tilted up.
@@FourwheelerDoctor alright thank you
What kind of Greece did you use
Wheel bearing grease for the swing arm bearings and 80 w - 90 gear oil for the differential
Do I absolutely have to tighten that pivot lock nut on the right side
Yes you do. The pivot bolts can work their way out as the swing arm moves up and down and could allow the swing arm to fall off.
@@FourwheelerDoctor wouldn’t want that to happen
@@FourwheelerDoctor is there anything I can use to loosen and tighten it without having to get that outrageously expensive tool
@@tdaman6417 you really don't have to loosen it. If you put the 17 mm hex in there with a big ratchet it will break it loose backing it off. Once you get it out make sure it will screw in and screw out easily. Put it back on and tighten down the the pivot bolt to spec. Then spin the lock nut with a screwdriver or a pair of needle nose pliers until it tightens up. Then you can take a chisel and hit the edge of the lock nut until it is very tight. I used to do that on the old ones I did before I had the tool
What size Allen head
17mm
So do you not need to loosen the locknut before loosening the pivot bolt?
You can but I have found it easier to loosen the center bolt first. I have messed up the lock nut before just trying to get them loose then I figured out it could be loosened later
@@FourwheelerDoctor OK thanks, great video
Ctrl
What is the part number/info for that seal you removed with the drywall screw?
It is 91203-HN7-003
Thank you so much!
How did you install that output seal? Mine didn't feel snug when I put mine in and is still leaking oil. Thanks