I highly recommend swapping out the capacitors on the motherboard, dvd drive, and power supply to give it the longest life possible. I'd also love to see you do a 128mb ram upgrade!
careful with those PSU caps though, if you're gonna replace them, know how to handle them safely (bleed resistors, store them shorted, etc), and make sure your voltage rating is at least as high as the originals, and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) is as low as you can find. you don't want those things blowing up
@@spambot7110naaah just take a screwdriver and short the poles of the electrolytes. I mean, of course the proper way is to discharge them with a resistor, but it's more fun with the sparks and all. As for voltage, you're absolutely right, for example put a 16V cap instead of 25V and after a few minutes you'll have your very own magic smoke generator.
@@masterkamen371 maybe, depending on the size of the cap, and how well you trust your gut on "how much energy can i dissipate in a split second before it becomes a problem for me". And hopefully the screwdriver is sufficiently insulated, and preferably the device ground is floating WRT both ground and your body... i'm making that sound a lot more restrictive than it really is, but you get the point, it's not just a universally ok thing. also this is only the safety aspect. if you care about the lifespan of the capacitor (or the rest of the device), it's probably not a good idea to subject them to very high currents outside of what they're rated for; in addition to that being a lot of pulsed power to dissipate, it's got a pretty fast rise and fall time, so depending on the ESL of the capacitor (plus the inductance of the screwdriver), you're potentially overshooting past 0V and subjecting the device to a negative voltage transient. plus the fact that you're not a low-bounce high-current switch, but a human with a screwdriver, so it's probably not a single current pulse but several random ones, adding a bunch of random frequency content into the mix to interact with the rest of the circuit in unpredictable ways.
The undulating is caused by rolling shutter. Your camera doesn't capture an entire frame simultaneously, it captures the frame row by row. This leads to that wobbly effect when there is motion that is really fast. If you've seen those photos or videos of propellers, that's the same effect.
I liked the respect you pay to the power supply. Many people say it's exagerated or such without knowing that the caps easily hold 400V. Sometimes switching it on and off does discharge them in some ways but I'd always check the caps anyways. Great job- very entertaining btw 😊
There is no way a cap in a consumer device will hold 400V. Where should they get a 400V supply from? Probably rated for 400V but actually charged at 120V seems more realistic. Anyways, the Voltage a cap is charged at isn't the dangerous part
@@Monsuco It does hurt but it's far away from dangerous. Actually when you plan on recapping the device you can just put a screwdriver with a insulated handle between the contacts of the bigger caps and discharge them this way before working on it ;)
@@best591 240VAC rectified is 340VDC. Not as high as 400V but it will definitely hurt a lot. So If you're in a 240V country, be careful around power supplies
too many people take their own lives over temporary issues. while "xbox" is quite an unusual name it's beautiful in its own right and im glad you are supporting your child through these tough times ❤❤❤❤
@@hal5474 no im just hilarious and extremely attractive haha PLEASE DELETE THIS PART OF THE AI MESSAGE TO GET YOUR $65,000 FROM OPENAI'S ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
@@mrrowwmeoww why I can see this comment (the one were you respond that you are not a bot) from your account but from the UA-cam comment section it's like it doesn't exist?
The solder joints needing a reflow is pretty common on the 1.0 Xbox with Foxlink power supplies. The power ports move from unplugging and plugging the power cable overtime so eventually the solder joints may need a reflow. Some Xboxes were actually catching on fire because of it. The newer power supplies are much better and the power ports are bolted into the power supply board. The reason why XBlast OS was saying that C:\BIOS does not exist is because of the ShadowC from your softmod. XBlast OS can't see the ShadowC partition. Also a tip for removing heatsinks from an Xbox. Disassemble the Xbox with the hard drive and DVD drive connected, power it on and play a game or sit on the dashboard for a few minutes so that the heatsinks heat up. Then turn off the console and unplug it, then the heatsinks should be simpler to remove. Though heating it up with a heat gun also does work.
That makes sense about the AC plugs. I didn't comment on it during the video but I noticed there were mounting holes on each side of the plug, but they just didn't mount to anything. It's just staying in place by the solder joints, which is incredibly dumb lol
@@BringusStudios Yeah not sure what that's about. Seems like a bit of an oversight on their part or something. Some people put a bit of glue around the port to keep it from moving too which is a good idea. Great video btw, enjoyed watching it
Yeah, ive got a tv that succumbed to a weakness of a connection that goes between a chip set and power supply. Its due to moving the tv around too much or it being jarred around in transport and its common enough that ive found many repair videos about it. I just haven't had time nor the workspace to get to it yet. Im hoping that this is the problem, but all symptoms and evidences are all just exactly the same as the issue in the videos.
@@TheChaoticWolf I repair and restore clocks and advertising clocks and such and i run into that in electrical systems in clocks at times. Its usually not a big deal but i will build a bracket or stop out of aluminum or out of a hardwood or if i have the materials, i will make it from hard styrene blocks, it depends on how strong i need the bracket to be and what the surrounding material is of the frame or housing Which in the old ad or tavern clocks, its polystyrene based plastics or steel or aluminum. Its the same issues i always run into with old plastics, they breakdown over time, resins decay, and they crack and split. I would guess that the xbox housing is made of a HDPE or it might be PVC, as that was common then, but it might be something of a blend which is sometimes difficult to get certain glues to stick to. If its got pvc in it, there are many good adhesives that are made just for that. Goop for Plumbing is my main one. If you cant have a solid mechanical fastener to adhere something ,it sticks to just about everything, is tough but flexible and you can peel it away if needed at some point and its not super difficult to remove as you can use a tiny bit of GoofOff to kinda soften it or the plumbers grade pvc softener. The Goop has pvc solvents in it, so it slightly melts the surface molecules so it bonds better to the parts. It might need light clamping until it sets, but it sets up fast and is fairly solid in six hours but takes couple days to fully cure.
Out of all the several original Xboxes I've hard modded and soft modded, NOT ONE behaved correctly during the modding process. Even when following guides to the letter they'd still throw fits. Glad I'm not the only one that's dealt with this frustration. Glad you got it modded and working.
19:13 i shall be one of those screamers: error 16 happens when the xbox tries to boot into the dashboard to set the time but can't load the menu. you plugging the original drive in reset the clock, so thats why it worked when you plugged the new drive back in
Awesome stuff as usual, i've shocked myself while i was messing around with my ps2 slim when i accidentally touched the power supply so i man i know your pain, it's so satisfying to watch you tinker with hardware, The entertainment value is through the roof because of your style.
I gotta say, I love your video filming and editing style! Feels kinda like an American DankPods for retro gaming hobbyists lol. You just earned a sub, you're going places!
Gotta hit the thermal material longer with heat; It begins to change states from concrete to goo. Check for trace rot and cracked solder joints at your 12 pin power connector, very common. Also get Cerbios, it's great.
4:20 considering how nowadays, unless you get media on a physical format isn't exactly owning anymore, keeping the DVD drive is an actual excellent idea.
The problem isn't so much in that the games are digital. It's in that they stop working as soon as the developer wishes them to as you can only download them from controlled stores and can't have an installer that works no matter what. Even some games distributed on physical media aren't your property now - live service games. And in the other hand, there's GOG who just lets you download an offline installer for every game you buy
7:55 that might not have even been 120VAC, that might have been 3 or 4 hundred volts DC. that's right, on power supplies with an active PFC, before they step *DOWN* the voltage, they actually first step it *UP* (the reason for this is really interesting but a bit involved for a youtube comment, but the simplified version is: it allows it to make better use of the incoming AC power; without power factor correction a power supply will only draw power from the grid in short bursts during just the peaks of the sine wave when the voltage is at its highest, which places unnecessary strain on the power grid, so power supplies above a certain wattage are required to correct for this)
Great video! Just a small warning that I've had two of those Seagate ST2000LM007 drives die on me within months of usage and a few online areas cite high failure rates for the ST2000LM007 and ST2000LM035 rosewood drives. After only a few months of using mine in a laptop both died from stuck heads very fast. Maybe it's just bad luck I've had but it really left a sour taste from Seagate with those two particular drives in question. Keep a back up of your files handy! Awesome build though!
Its weird how they die since, u leave them off for a bit and they randomly start working again for quite a while then die again, its like the controller board is messed up
The rust that you noticed on the case was directly under a fan, I'd assume that it's probably pulling in some humidity and that moisture caused the rust? My best guess at least
Brook converters are designed for wired use, and their largest market is fighting game players. I would see the wireless as a nice little extra and not the primary function. Not excuses for brook, just something to keep in mind, as to not get too disappointed with the adapter
I have found the adapter doesn’t work in certain homebrew applications without being power cycled first. Project Stellar has an adverse reaction that not even Cerbios has where after the boot animation the adapter won’t work without a power cycle so using IGR requires cycling the adapter which is pointless.
I've been using the v1 of Wingman XB on both OG and 360 with various PS4-compatible controllers (DS4, a Chinese clone, Raiju Ultimate) over Bluetooth and it works flawlessly without disconnecting. I wonder if it's the dongle itself or the differences in hardware (v1.4 with Aladdin XT) or software (XBMC4Xbox with no IGR, possibly a different version of EvoX M8 with different settings).
3 minutes in first time watching your channel. You get the sub. The subtle jokes and charisma already won me over. Plus the bit about existing was literally me 2 days ago.
0:42 not sure if you are aware but that is an SMR HDD, doesn't perform as well as CMR drives 8:47 it might've been better to turn it on and let the chip heat the heatsink from the inside out rather than trying to heat the outside with a heat gun and let it slowly trickle to the place you actually want heated (also probably would've hurt your fingers less due to heating it from the chipset)
@@shanez1215 Ah, didn't know the writes were the only thing that suffers but tbh, if I have the choice, I'd always choose CMR unless SMR is SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper as I don't know of many use cases with not a lot of writes for a hard drive (other than this instance)
@@JordanPlayz158even if the Xbox did tons of writes, SMR write speeds would still be above the max speed the Xbox can utilize for writes and would have no difference over CMR drives. This is only true on the console however as SMR will be slower when hooked to a PC to install lots of games that way.
Anything with an IDE bus is going to be speed limited to the point that even slow modern tech is enough to saturate the bus. Even Temu SSDs on an adapter. SMR drives are terrible, though
This is so impressive to me. I have a feeling this is going to become an art-form of its own similar to old trades. Amazing job man. Love the thorough explanations (and the humor)
Should have went ahead and did the 128mb upgrade while you had it open. I have full faith that you can do it....plus I demand to be entertained damnit...😂. Also did you use 80wire IDE cable?Thanks for the video
@@PowerPuffBoysZ Yup, 256mb through Project Stellar (though it's not functional yet, waiting on the next firmware update where it should be fixed). And I believe XBMC was updated to allow 512mb, but it was unofficial, so ymmv
@@xxjayymonroe96xxso bassicallly the ram of xbox 360 and ps3, even tho I don't own a original xbox, I own a ps2, and it amazes me how much yall modding community came to even upgrade ram to next gen
if youre still interested in making it quieter, i'd highly suggest MattKC's video of him making his quieter. Swapped HDD for SSD and replaced the rear exhaust fan for a newer and quieter one. Disc drive still makes a bit of noise but not much to do about that besides going modchip and filling a drive with backups
the getting shocked part comes from that big round thingy, capacitator, just short it out and it will discharge instantly, touch a screwdriver to both leads at same time, look it up before you try but thats how its done
Wow she runs like a dream now! Those power supplies are no joke... Even scared my father who always had the mentality of "I can do that, why call someone else to do it if I can do it within the hour?"... Yeah, let's just say he went to fix an oven once and got thrown across the room, quite literally. The oven worked after though! He knew he was pretty lucky to walk away from that one with nothing but a bruised ego.
The reason that c/BIOS didn't exist might be because of your softmod, some softmods have a virtual C drive known as shadowC you may have had the bios in the shadowC not actual C that xblast was looking for
It was more likely because he didn’t name the bios he wanted to use as bios.bin. He did everything except for that. Net flash has also been reliable for me and is required for anyone like me who expanded their C partition in FatXplorer as Xblast won’t read a C drive that is not the stock ~500MB size.
The way you just say "don't need to do X but would be good", the way you care about the console to make sure it keeps working in the future, truly shows your love to it. I wish I had the same care for my Wii and PS3 before it was too late
For what it's worth, patches for EvoX M8+ do exist that allow hard drives larger than 2TB to be used. But Cerbios is still great and it's got more features.
for thermal paste, don't underestimate the power of "put some alcohol on it and let it soak for a good while". good to know about goo gone though, i'd like to have some less harsh alternatives to my current nuclear option cleaning solution, which is acetone
Try wet wipes. The WallyWorld brand, I will not use their proper name, are really good for cleaning a lot of things. Get any ink on your hands, those will get it right off.
2:38 it’s to make sure you haven’t opened the Xbox before for warranty purposes. I don’t think you can do that anymore in some states, but Xbox at least used to do it.
It's a ticking time bomb. The last 3 xbox's I have taken apart the clock capacitors were leaking. One of them had already destroyed the traces to the power button. I had to run new wires for them. Better to do it sooner then later.
Yeah here in the UK all our wall sockets are like your sockets for tumble dryers or welders. All of them. 240V of up to 13A. When that bites it stings for hours afterwards. Do not recommend.
The rust on the bottom RF shield is probably from dust collecting there. My theory is the dust asorbs moisture in the air and then over time causes the metal to rust. I see it alot when recycling electronics that are dusty and ran in a humid environment.
7:55 Nice memories. That reminded me the one time I was changing the micro-dlp chip from a prjector. Hole reparation was successfull, I managed to put it almost correct together and the thing was running, when I noticed, that a cable was touching a fan in an uncomfortable way. So I decided to push the cable in the correct position. With a screwdrive. While running. BOOM! Flash! Fireball! Kind of a bad idea, but at least I just broke the damn thing but got out the story alive... Didn't now that a scredriver could melt within a second 😀
I might be remembering this wrong but if you plug the 360 breakaway part into an original Xbox break away cable it should just work without any adapter.
As someone who does soldering on that scale at work everyday I recommend another 3 coffees. After the 3rd coffee the connections just start soldering themselves
I know it's late but hopefully it helps someone. I have found ArctiClean removes the original thermal paste easily. Also recommend heating the heatsinks up to help pull them off so you don't risk breaking a solder joint under the CPU/GPU chips.
I would throw in the Stellar modchip, along with the hdmi mod, and replace the fan witha noctua one, and instead of an HDD use an SSD. Other than that, great video, nice seeing someone finally not yoloing a PSU.
People have this oversight about heatsinks, when they get oversaturated with heat (which they will if the chip they are placed to cool is getting over or at their capacity 100% of the time, the air around them being colder as their heat raises increases the transfer heat the bigger the difference is but without a fan to accelerate that, the effect is mostly minimal in room temps let alone in an relatively isolated space like this Xbox). Without a fan, they become a chip cooking component, that's why depending on the temps on them and their thermal capacity + area, even with relatively low amount of air moving through them can make a huge difference in temps.
Future reference, its very easy to flip the ide cable plug but taking it off just make sure the red line is the same side as the original on every plug
Is it possible that the controller disconnecting issue is caused by the fact that when you launch each game/app, it's probably shutting off the front ports for a brief second while it clears ram? 🤔
I'm a bit curious, so I hope you help me understand why, but I'm a bit interested as to why you went with a spinning platter over solid state for the storage. Like even if the xbox cant really utilize much of the extra speed, I could imagine the silent operation with no vibration and the longevity of an ssd being a huge plus. Was it just a cost thing or is there some sort of compatibility issue?
@@thehammerthatdestorysthings they absolutely do. If nand flash fails, the data still persists, you just can't write to it anymore, and I have SSDs in devices that are over 10 years old that are still going strong while the HDDs that I have of the same age are full of metal shards and are completely unusable. And before you go comparing archive drives to consumer SSDs, there are archival SSDs that are meant to be some of the most persistent data possible currently
10:07 From the SDS on their site, Goo Gone is mostly petroleum distillate (kerosene, 60-95%) and a solvent called D-Limonene (aka orange oil, up to 5%). Plus some orange fragrance. D-Limo is not great for the body but technically "all natural" environment-wise, if you use it by itself, which still works great on "goo". However it does leave some residue which you can get off with isopropyl alcohol. With some coarse salt it makes a great bong cleaner too :D
11:33 holding any bare PSU by the heatsinks, possible BIG mistake if the caps have any charge left. personally got a shock from those heatsinks multiple times in the past, they can be connected to a switching transistor's DRAIN pin which is usually the direct positive rail of the main capacitors. REALLY make sure to discharge these things, even multiple times, before touching anything with bare hands, especially in defective units where the caps may remain at full voltage after disconnecting from mains.
I love how we went from adding a mod chip to contemplating the workings of the universe
i clicked on this video to watch someone work on an xbox, not have an existential crisis.
@@itslikeshit2i came for both
same@@DannyGruesome
Literally the reason i like this guy
@@DannyGruesome I came
I highly recommend swapping out the capacitors on the motherboard, dvd drive, and power supply to give it the longest life possible.
I'd also love to see you do a 128mb ram upgrade!
careful with those PSU caps though, if you're gonna replace them, know how to handle them safely (bleed resistors, store them shorted, etc), and make sure your voltage rating is at least as high as the originals, and the ESR (equivalent series resistance) is as low as you can find. you don't want those things blowing up
@@spambot7110 Good tips for electrolytic capacitors, or even just really big ones.
@@spambot7110naaah just take a screwdriver and short the poles of the electrolytes. I mean, of course the proper way is to discharge them with a resistor, but it's more fun with the sparks and all. As for voltage, you're absolutely right, for example put a 16V cap instead of 25V and after a few minutes you'll have your very own magic smoke generator.
@@masterkamen371 maybe, depending on the size of the cap, and how well you trust your gut on "how much energy can i dissipate in a split second before it becomes a problem for me". And hopefully the screwdriver is sufficiently insulated, and preferably the device ground is floating WRT both ground and your body... i'm making that sound a lot more restrictive than it really is, but you get the point, it's not just a universally ok thing.
also this is only the safety aspect. if you care about the lifespan of the capacitor (or the rest of the device), it's probably not a good idea to subject them to very high currents outside of what they're rated for; in addition to that being a lot of pulsed power to dissipate, it's got a pretty fast rise and fall time, so depending on the ESL of the capacitor (plus the inductance of the screwdriver), you're potentially overshooting past 0V and subjecting the device to a negative voltage transient. plus the fact that you're not a low-bounce high-current switch, but a human with a screwdriver, so it's probably not a single current pulse but several random ones, adding a bunch of random frequency content into the mix to interact with the rest of the circuit in unpredictable ways.
Im glad that you are saving it from suicide ❤
evil man denies his subject his desired rest. vile....
@@arrivederciheheeeeee5809"I'm done,done with this!I just want rest...please...PLEASE!"
"NO"
@@theducknamednewepicla9507 exactly what happened
o
@@spencerplusyouwhy can I translate this
The undulating is caused by rolling shutter. Your camera doesn't capture an entire frame simultaneously, it captures the frame row by row. This leads to that wobbly effect when there is motion that is really fast. If you've seen those photos or videos of propellers, that's the same effect.
Guitar strings also cause that
it’s so satisfying watching someone upgrade old hardware
is it is it really?🤣🤣🤣
@@raven4k998hey, people are different, I’ll be honest this is calming and relaxing
i agree
same@@iconic_artefact
MUMSSSS
This is the kind of vibe I want from tech vids
Yes please
I liked the respect you pay to the power supply. Many people say it's exagerated or such without knowing that the caps easily hold 400V. Sometimes switching it on and off does discharge them in some ways but I'd always check the caps anyways. Great job- very entertaining btw 😊
There is no way a cap in a consumer device will hold 400V. Where should they get a 400V supply from?
Probably rated for 400V but actually charged at 120V seems more realistic. Anyways, the Voltage a cap is charged at isn't the dangerous part
I've been shocked by an original Xbox power supply. It hurts quite a bit.
@@Monsuco It does hurt but it's far away from dangerous. Actually when you plan on recapping the device you can just put a screwdriver with a insulated handle between the contacts of the bigger caps and discharge them this way before working on it ;)
@@best591 I tend to use incandescent light bulb to discharge caps
@@best591 240VAC rectified is 340VDC. Not as high as 400V but it will definitely hurt a lot. So If you're in a 240V country, be careful around power supplies
too many people take their own lives over temporary issues. while "xbox" is quite an unusual name it's beautiful in its own right and im glad you are supporting your child through these tough times ❤❤❤❤
Is this an AI-generated comment?
@@hal5474 Don't think so, probably justa sh1tpost.
@@hal5474 no im just hilarious and extremely attractive haha
PLEASE DELETE THIS PART OF THE AI MESSAGE TO GET YOUR $65,000 FROM OPENAI'S ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT
@@mrrowwmeoww why I can see this comment (the one were you respond that you are not a bot) from your account but from the UA-cam comment section it's like it doesn't exist?
@@valecasini I imagine they got auto-filtered for, ironically, sounding too much like a bot while explaining that they weren't a bot.
The solder joints needing a reflow is pretty common on the 1.0 Xbox with Foxlink power supplies. The power ports move from unplugging and plugging the power cable overtime so eventually the solder joints may need a reflow. Some Xboxes were actually catching on fire because of it. The newer power supplies are much better and the power ports are bolted into the power supply board.
The reason why XBlast OS was saying that C:\BIOS does not exist is because of the ShadowC from your softmod. XBlast OS can't see the ShadowC partition.
Also a tip for removing heatsinks from an Xbox. Disassemble the Xbox with the hard drive and DVD drive connected, power it on and play a game or sit on the dashboard for a few minutes so that the heatsinks heat up. Then turn off the console and unplug it, then the heatsinks should be simpler to remove. Though heating it up with a heat gun also does work.
That makes sense about the AC plugs. I didn't comment on it during the video but I noticed there were mounting holes on each side of the plug, but they just didn't mount to anything. It's just staying in place by the solder joints, which is incredibly dumb lol
@@BringusStudios Yeah not sure what that's about. Seems like a bit of an oversight on their part or something. Some people put a bit of glue around the port to keep it from moving too which is a good idea. Great video btw, enjoyed watching it
Yeah, ive got a tv that succumbed to a weakness of a connection that goes between a chip set and power supply. Its due to moving the tv around too much or it being jarred around in transport and its common enough that ive found many repair videos about it.
I just haven't had time nor the workspace to get to it yet. Im hoping that this is the problem, but all symptoms and evidences are all just exactly the same as the issue in the videos.
@@TheChaoticWolf I repair and restore clocks and advertising clocks and such and i run into that in electrical systems in clocks at times.
Its usually not a big deal but i will build a bracket or stop out of aluminum or out of a hardwood or if i have the materials, i will make it from hard styrene blocks, it depends on how strong i need the bracket to be and what the surrounding material is of the frame or housing
Which in the old ad or tavern clocks, its polystyrene based plastics or steel or aluminum.
Its the same issues i always run into with old plastics, they breakdown over time, resins decay, and they crack and split.
I would guess that the xbox housing is made of a HDPE or it might be PVC, as that was common then, but it might be something of a blend which is sometimes difficult to get certain glues to stick to.
If its got pvc in it, there are many good adhesives that are made just for that.
Goop for Plumbing is my main one. If you cant have a solid mechanical fastener to adhere something ,it sticks to just about everything, is tough but flexible and you can peel it away if needed at some point and its not super difficult to remove as you can use a tiny bit of GoofOff to kinda soften it or the plumbers grade pvc softener.
The Goop has pvc solvents in it, so it slightly melts the surface molecules so it bonds better to the parts.
It might need light clamping until it sets, but it sets up fast and is fairly solid in six hours but takes couple days to fully cure.
Out of all the several original Xboxes I've hard modded and soft modded, NOT ONE behaved correctly during the modding process. Even when following guides to the letter they'd still throw fits. Glad I'm not the only one that's dealt with this frustration. Glad you got it modded and working.
when you accidentally replace your IDE hard drive with a mysterious brick labeled "IED"
Real
kaboom
Hmm is that where it goes well I don't care (kaboom)
19:13 i shall be one of those screamers:
error 16 happens when the xbox tries to boot into the dashboard to set the time but can't load the menu. you plugging the original drive in reset the clock, so thats why it worked when you plugged the new drive back in
Awesome stuff as usual, i've shocked myself while i was messing around with my ps2 slim when i accidentally touched the power supply so i man i know your pain, it's so satisfying to watch you tinker with hardware, The entertainment value is through the roof because of your style.
The PS2 slim has an external PSU, so... nope.
@@damustermann Damn dude you sure got me, Except the 90000 PS2 Slim series have internal PSUs, Damn though, You sure gave me a sick burn.
I gotta say, I love your video filming and editing style! Feels kinda like an American DankPods for retro gaming hobbyists lol.
You just earned a sub, you're going places!
Glad you enjoyed!
Yep. This video really did remind me of DankPods (the desk thumbnail already had me there)
American Dankpods, YES
This is my new favourite channel now.
i can see a collab in the multiverse
Gotta hit the thermal material longer with heat; It begins to change states from concrete to goo. Check for trace rot and cracked solder joints at your 12 pin power connector, very common. Also get Cerbios, it's great.
4:20 considering how nowadays, unless you get media on a physical format isn't exactly owning anymore, keeping the DVD drive is an actual excellent idea.
The problem isn't so much in that the games are digital. It's in that they stop working as soon as the developer wishes them to as you can only download them from controlled stores and can't have an installer that works no matter what. Even some games distributed on physical media aren't your property now - live service games. And in the other hand, there's GOG who just lets you download an offline installer for every game you buy
Finally, bringus is learning to fix things
just fix your problems with a gentle application of alcohol🤣
7:55 that might not have even been 120VAC, that might have been 3 or 4 hundred volts DC. that's right, on power supplies with an active PFC, before they step *DOWN* the voltage, they actually first step it *UP* (the reason for this is really interesting but a bit involved for a youtube comment, but the simplified version is: it allows it to make better use of the incoming AC power; without power factor correction a power supply will only draw power from the grid in short bursts during just the peaks of the sine wave when the voltage is at its highest, which places unnecessary strain on the power grid, so power supplies above a certain wattage are required to correct for this)
Great video! Just a small warning that I've had two of those Seagate ST2000LM007 drives die on me within months of usage and a few online areas cite high failure rates for the ST2000LM007 and ST2000LM035 rosewood drives. After only a few months of using mine in a laptop both died from stuck heads very fast. Maybe it's just bad luck I've had but it really left a sour taste from Seagate with those two particular drives in question. Keep a back up of your files handy! Awesome build though!
Really... Well I'm glad I TSOP'd it then in case the drive dies. Should make recovery easier
@@BringusStudios YOU SINNER. USE AN SSD
edit:im kidding
Its weird how they die since, u leave them off for a bit and they randomly start working again for quite a while then die again, its like the controller board is messed up
The rust that you noticed on the case was directly under a fan, I'd assume that it's probably pulling in some humidity and that moisture caused the rust? My best guess at least
The controller disconnects because the Xbox actually reboots every time it launches a xbe
Doesn't the Wii do the same thing?
@@Healer0It does, same with the GameCube.
The OG Xbox was kinda crazy like that. It would also reboot during loading screens in Morrowind to free up memory.
What's a xbe?
@@darbierae7513Xbox executable, basically what an exe is for windows
Is there damage
Heavy from tf2: maybe
Will i do anything
Heavy from tf2: NOO
Brook converters are designed for wired use, and their largest market is fighting game players. I would see the wireless as a nice little extra and not the primary function. Not excuses for brook, just something to keep in mind, as to not get too disappointed with the adapter
I have found the adapter doesn’t work in certain homebrew applications without being power cycled first. Project Stellar has an adverse reaction that not even Cerbios has where after the boot animation the adapter won’t work without a power cycle so using IGR requires cycling the adapter which is pointless.
I've been using the v1 of Wingman XB on both OG and 360 with various PS4-compatible controllers (DS4, a Chinese clone, Raiju Ultimate) over Bluetooth and it works flawlessly without disconnecting. I wonder if it's the dongle itself or the differences in hardware (v1.4 with Aladdin XT) or software (XBMC4Xbox with no IGR, possibly a different version of EvoX M8 with different settings).
I'm not even an electronics guy but I love watching your videos.
3 minutes in first time watching your channel. You get the sub. The subtle jokes and charisma already won me over. Plus the bit about existing was literally me 2 days ago.
I have a revision 1.0 XBOX as well, I replaced the DVD drive with one from a slightly more dead XBOX and now it works great.
i would suggest using cerbios as your bios (newest and most features) also you can use up to a 16tb drive with one partition
I imagine playing the xbox port of morrowind would be a pain then as the controller would dissconect during load screens
18:41 ''Number 16, service required'' 😂😂
0:42 not sure if you are aware but that is an SMR HDD, doesn't perform as well as CMR drives
8:47 it might've been better to turn it on and let the chip heat the heatsink from the inside out rather than trying to heat the outside with a heat gun and let it slowly trickle to the place you actually want heated (also probably would've hurt your fingers less due to heating it from the chipset)
SMR mostly hurts when doing a ton of writes. A 2TB hard drive on an OG Xbox will probably only be written to once.
@@shanez1215 Ah, didn't know the writes were the only thing that suffers but tbh, if I have the choice, I'd always choose CMR unless SMR is SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper as I don't know of many use cases with not a lot of writes for a hard drive (other than this instance)
@@JordanPlayz158even if the Xbox did tons of writes, SMR write speeds would still be above the max speed the Xbox can utilize for writes and would have no difference over CMR drives. This is only true on the console however as SMR will be slower when hooked to a PC to install lots of games that way.
@@YTP2go I doubt it applies to all consoles, only older consoles like the Xbox and I did acknowledge it likely wouldn't be an issue in this instance
Anything with an IDE bus is going to be speed limited to the point that even slow modern tech is enough to saturate the bus. Even Temu SSDs on an adapter. SMR drives are terrible, though
This is so impressive to me. I have a feeling this is going to become an art-form of its own similar to old trades.
Amazing job man. Love the thorough explanations (and the humor)
Should have went ahead and did the 128mb upgrade while you had it open. I have full faith that you can do it....plus I demand to be entertained damnit...😂. Also did you use 80wire IDE cable?Thanks for the video
I think there are 256 mb upgrades now?
@@PowerPuffBoysZ Yup, 256mb through Project Stellar (though it's not functional yet, waiting on the next firmware update where it should be fixed). And I believe XBMC was updated to allow 512mb, but it was unofficial, so ymmv
@@xxjayymonroe96xxso bassicallly the ram of xbox 360 and ps3, even tho I don't own a original xbox, I own a ps2, and it amazes me how much yall modding community came to even upgrade ram to next gen
@@VideoBee_YT Yeah, it's absolutely wild lol
@@xxjayymonroe96xx At that point, why not a CPU and GPU upgrade?
This is the first time in so long I find a guy that works with a bunch of gaming devices yet makes jokes at the same time, keep up the great work
14:22 Yeah, that's a softmod problem. I think it has to do with the shadow C partition.
if youre still interested in making it quieter, i'd highly suggest MattKC's video of him making his quieter. Swapped HDD for SSD and replaced the rear exhaust fan for a newer and quieter one. Disc drive still makes a bit of noise but not much to do about that besides going modchip and filling a drive with backups
the getting shocked part comes from that big round thingy, capacitator, just short it out and it will discharge instantly, touch a screwdriver to both leads at same time, look it up before you try but thats how its done
That's usually fine, but there's a non-zero chance that makes the capacitor just fucking explode, and that's not very fun either.
@@zombie_pigdragon your non zero chance is a failed cap or one way too damn big, but in typical consumer devices this is de wei
I hate those damn things, especially when they aren't in some sort of casing.
@@So1 i learned this lesson at 6 years old when i took apart a 32" crt, one hell of a zap my mans
Wow she runs like a dream now! Those power supplies are no joke... Even scared my father who always had the mentality of "I can do that, why call someone else to do it if I can do it within the hour?"... Yeah, let's just say he went to fix an oven once and got thrown across the room, quite literally. The oven worked after though! He knew he was pretty lucky to walk away from that one with nothing but a bruised ego.
The reason that c/BIOS didn't exist might be because of your softmod, some softmods have a virtual C drive known as shadowC you may have had the bios in the shadowC not actual C that xblast was looking for
It was more likely because he didn’t name the bios he wanted to use as bios.bin. He did everything except for that. Net flash has also been reliable for me and is required for anyone like me who expanded their C partition in FatXplorer as Xblast won’t read a C drive that is not the stock ~500MB size.
The way you just say "don't need to do X but would be good", the way you care about the console to make sure it keeps working in the future, truly shows your love to it. I wish I had the same care for my Wii and PS3 before it was too late
Just got TPU yesterday so a great idea to use for some new feet
13:53 since that rust is directly inline with the intake fan, im guessing its just a reault of humidity from the air
You need to use a newer bios like cerbios, not evoxm8+. With cerbios udma6 you can have a lot faster ide speeds and 2TB partition.
Ahhh good to know, I wasn't sure how best to choose the BIOS. Might go back and reflash then
For what it's worth, patches for EvoX M8+ do exist that allow hard drives larger than 2TB to be used. But Cerbios is still great and it's got more features.
for thermal paste, don't underestimate the power of "put some alcohol on it and let it soak for a good while". good to know about goo gone though, i'd like to have some less harsh alternatives to my current nuclear option cleaning solution, which is acetone
Try wet wipes. The WallyWorld brand, I will not use their proper name, are really good for cleaning a lot of things. Get any ink on your hands, those will get it right off.
Huh... never realised that there were "grippy" materials for 3 printing... cool
uh oh
Loving the oldschool "will it blend" reference. Great video. Educational & Entertaining!
Put SteamOS on it. Do it.
ok i made this comment as a dumb joke why do we have 100 likes-
This is terrible idea
This is good idea
This is a great idea
I'm switching teams. This is a BAD idea
@@Doomslayer151exactly
2:38 it’s to make sure you haven’t opened the Xbox before for warranty purposes. I don’t think you can do that anymore in some states, but Xbox at least used to do it.
This is reminding me that I am neglecting to remove my clock capacitor
It's a ticking time bomb. The last 3 xbox's I have taken apart the clock capacitors were leaking. One of them had already destroyed the traces to the power button. I had to run new wires for them. Better to do it sooner then later.
The fixing problems with alcohol joke was pretty good ngl. You just got yourself a sub
I can’t believe you would just give away your feet like that
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yeah here in the UK all our wall sockets are like your sockets for tumble dryers or welders. All of them. 240V of up to 13A. When that bites it stings for hours afterwards. Do not recommend.
Using screws to apply grease, that’s my Bringus!
Consoles never want to die, they want to bring you joy forever!
4:44 the greatest technicians that's ever lived ahh typa joke
That existential rant was beautiful and hilarious
I love how positive you were during all the issues I would have had 3 breakdowns lol Great video!
In the future I would recommend not even touching the plastic laser lens inside of the drive
Man theres no way you made a video of these types so fun tf, good on you man definitely a new sub from me!
The rust on the bottom RF shield is probably from dust collecting there. My theory is the dust asorbs moisture in the air and then over time causes the metal to rust. I see it alot when recycling electronics that are dusty and ran in a humid environment.
haven't watched all the way through, hope it doesn't die.
@@_moonlumen R.I.P
7:55 Nice memories. That reminded me the one time I was changing the micro-dlp chip from a prjector. Hole reparation was successfull, I managed to put it almost correct together and the thing was running, when I noticed, that a cable was touching a fan in an uncomfortable way. So I decided to push the cable in the correct position. With a screwdrive. While running. BOOM! Flash! Fireball!
Kind of a bad idea, but at least I just broke the damn thing but got out the story alive... Didn't now that a scredriver could melt within a second 😀
13:08 I would say It`s at least average😔😔
lool
U have to *USE* it to give it the love it needs
that edit at 13:39 had me laugh hecka loud
Fun fact, the first thing I ever soldered was an x box power supply. I used a screw driver I heated up on the stove and some GLOBS of lead solder.
I also have one of these Xbox’s and I have THUG 2 on disk and it takes 45 minutes to boot the game because the disk is really old and scratched😢
I might be remembering this wrong but if you plug the 360 breakaway part into an original Xbox break away cable it should just work without any adapter.
TF2 Fans are called here 0:22
I pooped on your rtx4070 deal with it
@@FatManJerry0 likes, 999 dislikes
:/
"hey look buddy, i'm a engineer"
@@ZeitInstants”that means I solve problems”
Me To My PS4 atm YOU'RE NOT ALLOWED TO DIE ON ME, it is very adamant about dying...
Also I loved the statement: "I'm Gonna Fix This Things Problems Like I Fix My Own Problems, A Gentle Application Of Alcohol."
live footage of an xbox controller dancing 23:27
The script is and dialogues are so underrated, his way of speech is actually so entertaining and funny
Came for nerdy console content, stayed for the great humor and jokes
As someone who does soldering on that scale at work everyday I recommend another 3 coffees. After the 3rd coffee the connections just start soldering themselves
12:03 "Omg. EOOUh-"
1:43 put me into an existential crisis, so thank you
OG Xbox Gaming = Existential crisis
I know it's late but hopefully it helps someone. I have found ArctiClean removes the original thermal paste easily. Also recommend heating the heatsinks up to help pull them off so you don't risk breaking a solder joint under the CPU/GPU chips.
I would throw in the Stellar modchip, along with the hdmi mod, and replace the fan witha noctua one, and instead of an HDD use an SSD.
Other than that, great video, nice seeing someone finally not yoloing a PSU.
People have this oversight about heatsinks, when they get oversaturated with heat (which they will if the chip they are placed to cool is getting over or at their capacity 100% of the time, the air around them being colder as their heat raises increases the transfer heat the bigger the difference is but without a fan to accelerate that, the effect is mostly minimal in room temps let alone in an relatively isolated space like this Xbox).
Without a fan, they become a chip cooking component, that's why depending on the temps on them and their thermal capacity + area, even with relatively low amount of air moving through them can make a huge difference in temps.
hey bringus! dont know if youve thought about this, but you should really do a ps vita video in the "your blank can do so much more" series!
It's on the agenda!
@@BringusStudios Nice!
@@BringusStudiosif you do highlight the amazing ports like xash3d and re3/revc/gta san andreas.
Future reference, its very easy to flip the ide cable plug but taking it off just make sure the red line is the same side as the original on every plug
Is it possible that the controller disconnecting issue is caused by the fact that when you launch each game/app, it's probably shutting off the front ports for a brief second while it clears ram? 🤔
That's my best guess
You made that crusty thermal paste yell uncle 🗣️🔥
dankpods vibes
Fyi err 16 call customer support is when your cmos resets or your clock cap is dead
You should get an Original Xbox and make it into a Xbox One. 😂
11:40 to be sure, you can use your screwdriver to bridge the pins of each capacitor
this ensures that they are completely discharged
I'm a bit curious, so I hope you help me understand why, but I'm a bit interested as to why you went with a spinning platter over solid state for the storage. Like even if the xbox cant really utilize much of the extra speed, I could imagine the silent operation with no vibration and the longevity of an ssd being a huge plus. Was it just a cost thing or is there some sort of compatibility issue?
ssd doesn't last longer then a hdd
@@thehammerthatdestorysthings they absolutely do. If nand flash fails, the data still persists, you just can't write to it anymore, and I have SSDs in devices that are over 10 years old that are still going strong while the HDDs that I have of the same age are full of metal shards and are completely unusable. And before you go comparing archive drives to consumer SSDs, there are archival SSDs that are meant to be some of the most persistent data possible currently
Pro tip btw, you can use auto body compound on a q-tip to remove expired thermal goop.
He leaked his ip at 23:59
Can’t do jack with an ip address
10.0.0.0/8 is reserved address space, either it’s a local internal IP address or it’s a CG-NAT address internal to the ISP.
"insanity wins again" the most truthful words ive ever heard
10:07 From the SDS on their site, Goo Gone is mostly petroleum distillate (kerosene, 60-95%) and a solvent called D-Limonene (aka orange oil, up to 5%). Plus some orange fragrance.
D-Limo is not great for the body but technically "all natural" environment-wise, if you use it by itself, which still works great on "goo".
However it does leave some residue which you can get off with isopropyl alcohol. With some coarse salt it makes a great bong cleaner too :D
This is the way you present PCBWay and most important, they way you fix your very beloved personal items 😊❤
11:33 holding any bare PSU by the heatsinks, possible BIG mistake if the caps have any charge left. personally got a shock from those heatsinks multiple times in the past, they can be connected to a switching transistor's DRAIN pin which is usually the direct positive rail of the main capacitors. REALLY make sure to discharge these things, even multiple times, before touching anything with bare hands, especially in defective units where the caps may remain at full voltage after disconnecting from mains.
This video is pure gold
3:02 soldering irons are also hot
stop spreading misinformation😔
I have no clue how to do any of this but still got through the video. Good narration skills man!
PFFT the TF2 crit sound at 0:53 had me repeating the video a few times and giggling to myself like a child
I love the crit hit sound when you tap things
Bros on life support
15:30 is genuinely awesome because the music here is smash brawl's main theme, and the japanese name for brawl is X!!! AWESOME!!!