Carrying a tripod is a nuisance for ordinary people who have difficulty taking time to take pictures. So I put my d750 into my ruckack during commuting to work. * I forgot to thank you for uploading a valuable video. =)
99% handheld, but then I'm a casual opportunist snapper and rarely set out with specific shots in mind. Mostly aiming for wildlife, but if a nice view catches my eye... Only exception is my occasional experimentation with astro.
Mostly shoot with a tripod but am starting to try more hand held after getting a mirrorless camera that can handle higher ISO. Lr DeNoise has also been helpful.
I have a tripod that just sits and hold a bird cover daytime 😂 yea I like handheld and my eye at the viewfinder Will try the shoulder trick and see how that works
As a one legged photographer that gets around on crutches only, I utilizes all these techniques. I would add one more, I find it helpful to use the 2 second shutter delay to settle, relax, stop breathing etc. I also just sit down a lot. I use a tripod about half the time.
There's a sixth technique that pros often use to ensure sharp photos, assuming your shutter speed is at or above 1/4sec, and that is to set the camera to 4 or 5 frames per second. Typically, it's when someone first pushes the shutter release that the most shake takes place-for a variety of reasons from the physical press itself to anxiety jitters at the moment of release. If you shoot at 4-5fps you have a far greater chance of capturing a frame that gets past those issues as your body settles in to the shooting process, and simultaneously ensures a shot that comes in between natural inhales or exhales (which is also helpful).
In planetary astrophotography, we call that “lucky imaging”! A very long time ago, a Nikon DSC (Coolpix 950? maybe) had this built in. It had a mode that automatically took a burst of images and automatically selected the sharpest one. That was a cool way to take a sharp pix!!!
Also the first shot when you press the shutter is often blurry because you pressed the shutter, so the other pictures are definitely going to be sharper.
@@ozarksdigitalcreations9254 I would disagree. Search for “Lucky Imaging Astrophotography” on UA-cam. The very first video on my search results is from a guy who shot 2500 frames to make a single sharp photo of the Ring Nebula. There are countless videos like this. The principle is well proven. For this case, when a person is on a boat that is moving, it is completely obvious that if they take a bunch of shots, some of them will be sharp and some will be blurry. If the exposure time is long, it might take a whole lot of shots. But eventually, if they are persistent, one will be sharp. I speak from proven experience for both the boat and the lucky imaging astrophotography.
Save your time, nothing substantial here, every thing is repeated 3 different times, and everything is basic common sense being presented like as if man just landed on the moon 🙄
Thanks mark. In low light conditions (would not work on a boat) I use trees (including stumps), walls, fences, rocks, my car etc as supports. Now days I rarely use a tripod. I have found as I have got older carying a heavy tripod on a steep, long hikes takes a lot of the pleasure away from the walk. I have also become more tolerent of a little bit of noise. Recently I have bought a micro 4/3 camera for day walks. I know its limitations and work within these. Sure its dynamic range is not as good as my full frame canon, but its IBIS and lack of weight more than counter these. I kid you not I can get sharp images up to 2 seconds (some people claim they get up to 3 seconds) hand held.
Recently went Whale watching in Iceland out of Húsavík, obviously on a moving boat and tripod was out of the question. Used all of your suggested stable platform tips but also raised the ISO up to 800 even though the light was very bright which gave a shutter speed of 1/800 sec, f14 @300mm. The images were really sharp and very little noise despite using an elderly Nikon D3300. As another person has suggested, I used burst mode (5 frames per sec) and it really helped 😉 got some great Whale fluke shots even at 300mm handheld
Topaz would argue with you re can't sharpen out blurred photos. But I'm with you. Whether Sharpen AI or Photo AI, I don't like the way either sharpens. I can't say I have ever seen a sharpened image that looks as good as an out of camera sharp one. Noise reduction is great though.
Great video Mark, I shot for years handheld, because I didn't wan to lug around a tripod . I used to have a Canon 6 D and a 24-27 2.8 l lenses ! this is an amazing lenses , pricey but no Image stabilization. The 6 D certainly didn't have IBS . My EOS R doesn't have IBS either and I can't pony up 2500.00 dollars to buy one that does. So I would say practice ,practice, practice !
Great video. "It's better to have a noisy photo that is in focus than an out of focus image with no noise." This. And do experiments to see how high of an ISO is acceptable on the camera being used. It's amazing how high gives good results.
For something like walking around town or the fairgrounds on a sunny day, your last resort should be first: put the shutter speed up. Then lower it as the light dims and start using those techniques.
Had a camera in my hand since I was 10 ! Never went anywhere ... trying to take pics at ISO 100 without a tripod ! Who does that? Doing a parade? Start off at 800 & check that shutter speed at the 1st few shots ! It's not 1980 anymore. 'Grainy' pics only come into the equation, if you're shooting for a Nat Geo magazine cover.
You were standing next to a tripod that looked like a tree. I’ve used a tree as a brace a few times. I’ve also placed my camera on the ground to minimize camera shake.
I shoot in auto ISO while I manually adjust my aperture and shutter speed. This may not always be ideal for landscape shots, but if the conditions are not great or you or the subject is moving around a lot, it works wonders
I've had success screwing a 1/4" eye bolt into the camera's tripod/accessory mount and tied to a cord that I'd step on with a good amount of tension. And I've had to get it into my head that ISO >100 is not evil! Gone are the days when you were stuck with whatever film speed you had in your camera, or switching from 100 to 400 for dusk or dawn shots.
I keep a piece of paracord in all my bags for this reason. Weighs next to nothing. I also use the Black Rapid type 1/4 D-ring eye in the tripod hole of my grip or on longer tele lenses for carrying so I usually have one with me and thus have a spot to tie to. The paracord is super useful for a foot brace with a tripod too.
Another thought on the tripod/hand held debate. This is not just regulated to camera stability. For some like me, it is helpful for slower thinking processes. I took up photography three years ago at age 50. I've always been a slower, more methodical thinker and it is getting slower as I age. I found the tripod gave me time to think about my newely learned camera settings for the first couple of years. I could fiddle with the settings without also holding the camera. Sounds silly, but it worked great for me. Now that I'm a tiny bit more experienced, I'm becoming much more comfortable with hand held and I'm using that probably 70% of the time. Finally, I'll often use the back screen when on tripod and the view finder when hand held. Great videos as always Mark. You were the first UA-cam photographer I found and I've always enjoyed your insights.
Some great tips there Mark, thank you. Another way I find that extra platform stablisation is to try and find something solid to lean up against, in your case on the boat, maybe leaning up against the main mast or the cabin top. I often lean up against a solid object, such as street post, brick wall, edge of a building etc. Keep the tips coming.
I do this all the time. Either lean my head using eyefinder on camera, not the live view, or actually lean camera lens against tree. Building wall corners can work well. Elbows on car hoods. Lots of options work very well. Other approaches is monopod, with a ball head attached to get convenient height and angle. Same with a Platypod. Tripods are my last resort, usually only in very dark environments. So inflexible, so slow to adjust/move in dynamic conditions.
I like your tip about raising ISO, Mark. I use a Canon 6D DSLR which gives great results for landscape up to 3200 and I have obtained satisfactory results at up to 6400. It's difficult to persuade fellow landscape photographers to raise ISO much above 100, and in making this decision they are effectively tethering themsleves to a tripod most of the time. Using manual mode with auto ISO and restricting the auto ISO range to suit your preference is a great idea. This means that you can take advantage of spontaneous photo opportunities as they arise which would be lost whilst setting up the tripod. Mostly this just means shooting at up to ISO 1600, which will give great results on most modern DSLRs and mirrorless. I have recently started to use a lightweight (1 kg) carbon fibre tripod which is easily transportable in the side storage of my camera bag, because tripods are undeniably useful in low light conditions. The problem was that I had a bigger, heavier tripod but could never be bothered to take it on photo hikes, so either I left it at home or I would photograph fairly close to where my car was parked...
Great tips for a difficult shooting situation. I would add to take a breath and slowly exhale while pressing the shutter - holding your breath is actually LESS stable.
I'm kicking myself for not adding that one as well - it's helped me a ton over the years! I might make a follow up to this video, theres some great suggestions in the comments here.
I shoot both with and without my tripod-- Usually without on things like birds- insects- flowers etc-- I almost always use auto ISO and set my shutter speed to 2 times my focal length. I really do not worry about noise with Topaz Denoise and LR Denoise programs. I never shoot through the back LCD when I hand hold I always use the view finder-- At almost 70 I am not steady enough to hold it away from my face and since I wear glasses and sunglasses I can't see on the LCD well enough to get a proper shot.
When I shoot handheld in low light for wildlife, I find shooting in burst-mode will give me at least one sharp image out of the burst (also using the three points of contact). For me, I can shoot 1/50 at 400mm and still get a sharp shot (for those animals just hanging around like moose before sunrise).
I have two more techniques: 1) For your left hand that supports under your lens, rather than hold it near the camera body, hold/support your lens near the front element. This also works when holding binoculars to your face, but then put both hands near the front for a steadier view. 2) Attach your tripod or monopod and extend it, but then hold you camera up so your tripod (or monopod) is not touching the boat’s deck. It’s a poor-man’s steady cam. It works by making a longer moment of rotational inertia, so your camera movement is slowed at least in some of the rotational axises.
#2 is interesting. I've not ever thought of that before. I live about as far on planet earth from oceans that you can do the boat platform rarely pops up in my experience but I do have a lot of windy days. I wonder if that would work in wind?
Hi Mark, This is from a relatively new photographer and I'm not sure this even applies to this video. What are your thoughts on putting the camera in manual then estimating the aperture and speed settings then selecting auto ISO? Thanks
I wonder at the crossover between rifle shooting and photography. I always learned when target shooting off-shoulder to brace, breathe all the way in, breathe out halfway and gently squeeze the trigger. I do a similar process for my camera work these days. I know sometimes you just need to snap-snap-snap and not all situations allow for a few seconds to mellow out and take the shake and tension from the body, but when I can it works for me and the breathwork helps to keep me calm and agile for longer.
Nice tips Mark! I sometimes use a technique with breathing in tandem to your tips. I’ve found that while inhaling, at the moment just before exhaling, I’ll release the shutter. This is a deliberately long smooth breath which helps me to relax and be in the moment.
I too find the breathing technique to work well. Sqeeeeeze the shutter right at the point where you switch from inhale to exhale or vice versa. I particularly use it if I'm at a slow shutter speed. For me, the act of taking longer, slower breaths also seems to keep my body more quiet.
@@briangalipeau8933 Definitely something to be said about quieting the body and mind. I always felt there’s more than just the photograph, there’s an experience.
If only this video was released one year early when I started landscape photography as hobby it was going to save me a lot of troubles figuring out why most of my photos are out of focus when I am shooting handheld, because I was trying shooting in very slow shutter speed and my Nikon D7100 doesn't have IBIS making things even worse...😅😅😅 Anyway very practical video for newly starting phootographers!
This is why you never shoot in auto. Camera will set your shutter speed to some ridiculous low number. Shoot in shutter priority, with auto Iso, max 6400
I shoot hand held most of the time, but I use the viewfinder exclusively. That way I have the camera against my face, both hands supporting it and elbows tucked in for stability. I often sit on the ground, or even lie prone, depending on the subject and the conditions. Naturally I use as high a shutter as I can, but that isn't always the ideal shutter speed for my situation. That's when technology comes to the rescue. My Canon R5 with in body stabilization combines with stabilized RF lenses to give me more freedom than ever before.
It appears you are left eye dominant, I am too. I believe we are in the minority, and it makes for a greasy LCD screen from the nose contact. Ever notice that?
As long as it fits with your desired composition never overlook the use of an immovable object as a body support , tree , fence post, wall, doorway , pole and perhaps even the boat, it might be easier to adjust for subtle boat moments with your hands rather than your feet . 😀 These days I only use a tripod either for ND shots, focus stacking or when there just isn’t enough light 😀
I’m agree . . . I hardly use my tripod because I find it limits my flexibility in getting the best angle for my shot. I also find that leaning against a stationary object, if available, allows me to be more relaxed when I’m shooting.
An old school tip that I used in my days as an archaoelogical site photographer on urban 'rescue archaeology' excavations (1980s and 1990s) where the photographic record was often the primary source for archaelologists creating the academic reports after the event when the archaology had destroyed the physical elements. It was often impossible or impractical to set up a tripod, and small apertures were required to record the necessary levels of detail, using film cameras and slow speed films (typically ISO 125 mono or ISO100 transparency), so I would employ all the methods suggested by Mark, but additionally always carried a small bean bag that could be used to support the camera - the bag would readlly mould onto most surfaces and provide a stable support for the camera. In the absence of a bean bag, a rolled up jacket or somesuch can be used as a temporary support. I also learned to master the art of balancing on camera flashguns with the existing daylight for objects and scenes within the range of the flash discharges. This can be a great help with low-light/high-contrast scenarios, translating to today's workflows this can be a very helpful technique to add a flexible image file that's easier to manipulate in image editors. Apology that this is longer than intended.
The strap thing I dint try it but a couple of times when I was trying a lens I put the lens against my neck righ below the ear and moved it with the head. I think it is the same concept as the strap or the elbow and it definitely helped. It was 10 times better than the tripod I had. But that only worked cause I was seeing the image on another screen close to me
Two other methods to get sharp images and video. 1. Lean against a solid object 2. Sit down and place your elbows on your knees while using the face brace. This is the absolute most stable method I use. Works especially well for video.
Though loath to cite advantages to being wheelchair bound, I find bracing my elbows on the chair armrests confers a tripod-like stability, which is hard to beat. It also works extremely well for video.
I was on a Mediterranean cruise in 2019, and was shooting with my little Canon G5X II. Our ship left Venice just about dark. I went on the balcony of our stateroom and started shooting pictures. I was really surprised at how well the pictures turned out. My favorite shows St. Mark’s and that area with light reflections in the water. I like it so well that I had it framed and mounted. Friends in two other states have copies hanging on their walls. I realize that a cruise ship is more stable than a sailboat, but I was still impressed getting good results in low light from a moving ship. I don’t recall the ISO of this particular shot, but probably 3200. The only noise problem was in the expanse of very dark blue sky, where there was no detail anyway. Moderate noise reduction was enough to make it not show up in 13” x 19” prints.
Great advice! I just started doing something that has helped me out a bit when it comes to hand holding my camera. I don't have in body stabilization in my camera and I was using a 50-100mm with no stabilization in it either, so I started using the 2 second timer, and it allowed me to be extra still before the shutter opened. Now I know you can't use this with every scene, but if you are shooting something that's not moving, it works very well. Thanks!!
I mostly shoot landscape and likely do 75% of my shots in late golden hour well into blue hour. I almost never use a tripod for this only really using it for astro or for long exposures of water. Looking back at shutter speed getting in the range of 1/10 of a second is not a big issue. I also dont have much issue shooting HDR stacks usually with a 1EV3 setting. Between 3 shots its a much longer effective shutter speed though I know lightroom corrects for some of that in the HDR merge but only between images not for individual images in the stack. If I set zoom in LR to 200 % or so I start to see lack of sharpness but not before that. I think your techniques mentioned are good, I always use the view finder so have the face point of contact and had not realized it before your video but nearly always shoot with my arms tucked as well. If its getting way too dark I also will kind of loop my strap around my elbow in a way that it really holds the camera tight to my body and face sometimes. If it works for the shot angle and is getting quite dark I also sometimes sit and lock my ankles together and rest the lens on my knee is a similar technique to how you would stabilize a rifle for long range shooting from a seated position. I never really understood why I see so many landscape photogrophers shoot from a tripod in lighting conditions where they have very fast shutter speeds. I am planning to make a point of using a tripod a little more this fall, though I tend to move around and shoot a similar shot with so many variations on composition that I would end up trying far fewer shots if using a tripod so I feel like it would be a real limitation outside of scenarios where you really want a long exposure to smooth out clouds or water. Upgrading to a better tripod might make me want to use it more as well, my Vanguard is ok but not good, considering a RRS TFC-24L, if nothing else it will help my nightscape shots. Anyway, as always great video!
Monopods are dead handy for when you can't or don't want to use a tripod. They're light, don't take up much space and don't get in other peoples' way. With your feet set apart and a monopod your three points of contact are not limited to your body, one of the 'struts' is completely rigid and you could still use most of your other techniques (for which thanks!).
Most of my work is done in an ice rink, dance studio, or during a stage performance so it's almost all handheld for me. when I do landscape I usually have my tripod because I like to do long exposure photos. As far as ISO goes I've learned not to fear pushing it. Thanks for the great video.
Wonderful tips for taking sharp pictures with handheld cameras all the points have been discussed with exceptional clarity! The idea of taking a grainy picture rather than an unsharp picture is invaluable! The shutter speed combination with the focal length and different stances of shooting handheld have been so important know-hows few people know about! Lastly I want to add to is to take a slightly under exposed picture cranking up the shutter one or even two stops while taking being pressed to compromise the iso and aperture would make the pictures easier to adjustment without getting a grainy picture; I don't know how to manage graininess because I know very little about light room techniques to improve a picture! Thank you for all the valuable knowhows for pictures being unshrap!
Not all cameras have in-camera stabilization. The Nikon D850, for example. Another critical thing that helps with stabilization is to have strong arms and legs, especially if using long, heavy lenses. Make your own body the strongest tripod in the world! So, hit the gym, if you don’t already!
Thanks Mark for very informative and practical tips. If I am using 100-400 mm lens and photographing hand held at 100 mm , shall I set 1/100 shutter speed or 1/400 shutter speed.
I use a tripod but that is also because im have to record video for my youtube videos. If i want to show what im doing i just need it. And i think it works better to get the best compositions. Look at those details on the edges is much easyer on a tripod. But shooting without it is much more fun thats for sure. In just wondering mark why do you use a QR code on the side of your video. I recently read that more then 70 percent of youtube video are watched on mobile devices so most people wont be able to scan the code. Just a little tip do with it whatever younwant 😊 ow and just one thing to add if you dont want a tripod to carry around considder a monopod. I dont use it myself but i kbow some friend find it realy good to work with and easy to carry around. Great video btw as always! Grt guido
Good stuff as usual. One of the things I'd like to change is to go from a "tripod first" to a "tripod if handheld won't suffice" mindset. Mirrorless stabilization is so good these days that I probably can get by with handheld more often than I could with my DSLR. Also, I find using a Hoodman loupe in the field greatly helps me in checking for focus.
My wife gave me a very nice Milano tripod that can also be used as a monopod....compact, light, quick and very portable. I use it that way mostly for video, but it's also quick & handy for stills
Thanks for these tips Mark, as I have 'essential tremor' in my right hand/arm, so handheld can be an issue of course. I tend to double my shutter speed for that reason, and as mentioned keep my aperture where I want it, and use 'auto ISO' which has been a godsend. After checking my image, I can then re-take using exposure compensation.
Real good points made in this video. I have learned a ton and plan on trying the arm tuck to see how that works. I like tripods but they are cumbersome. A lot of times I like to take off with just a couple of lenses packed and keep the gear down. So I need to develop a better posture for creating stability. One thing that was left out in this video though (I'm surprised as you by a bunch of trees) was to try leaning on a structure. In a forest, there are plenty of trees to lean on. By me there are some big rocks to lean against also. I have leaned on both and found my camera stability improved, and I got decent shots. Also, if one is in the woods, don't be afraid to get closer to the ground. The shots are usually interesting at lower levels, and there's a ton of stability to be found. I love shooting prone to the ground! Can't always do this though, so this video gives a lot of good things to try when standing up!!
Good tips! I generally rely on my OM-1 IBIS, which gives pretty good results even for exposures of more than 1 second. However, there might be a few other options. How useful would a gimbal mount be for stills? Or a gyro-stabiliser (e.g. Kenyon Gyro Stabilizer KS-4×4)?
Hey Mark, thanks for this. I’m new to using a DSLR and tips like this are getting me going. Question regarding your “one over” rule of thumb. I assume you’re talking about the effective focal length of the lens? I’m using a Canon EOS Rebel with a crop sensor, so my 50mm prime lens gives me more like an 80mm focal length. Would you recommend 1/80 or 1/160 shutter speed in this case?
just get used to shooting always as in step 4. Step 5 I can't do due to a bad left shoulder/titanium implant. An extra tip that works for me hold your breath and shoot at least 3 shots in quick succession, at least one of them will come up sharper than the other two as vibrations from multiple sources have the tendency to cancel each other.
The sharpness of a photograph is of very limited importance. It makes no sense to enlarge an image by 200 or 400% on a screen, and if it's a paper print, no one is going to put their eye to the image. The quest for sharpness is nothing more than a sales pitch by photographic equipment manufacturers, constantly and unreflectively repeated on the networks.
Elementary on a boat: Use your viewfinder. And as you can do nothing about the moving platform, you can least make sure you don't overcompensate the movement. So lean onto a wall or other fixed structure. And of course you need the right shutter speed to freeze the movement! If your pictures are noisy at ISO 3200, you might want to consider getting a newer camera...
I never thought about the camera strap idea. That’s a great idea!! I don’t use a camera strap, but I may have to buy one for just that reason. Thanks for sharing!!
Hey Mark. Great subject. Thanks for sharing. I mostly shoot handheld and I have been doing so since my first 35mm SLR a long time ago so I am familiar with most of the techniques but I when I need to change camera settings I usually only increase ISO to about 800 and then make adjust aperture and/or shutter speed depending on what I'm trying to do with the photo. I am going to your approach on camera settings when I go on vacation next month when I will not be able to take a tripod with me. Thanks again.
But what are the Camera Settings to start with the for the scenario that you have just described? That would give a benchmark from where the camera settings can be changed? thanks
learn form the mistakes and use the lessons, Mark these may be reminders for us long timers (and we need to be reminded) they are invaluable to learners and mid range. thanks for the tips. situation promotes tripod or handheld.
I occasionally use auto ISO but awareness is critical imo, because you may set it, then really forget it only to later discover unfavorable ISO captures. Especially if the light is dramatically changing.
Most cameras allow you to set a max iso when in auto, it’s funny as a landscape photographer I always insisted on a tripod and iso 64. I was so rigid with this. I have started doing street photography and use auto iso as default, just keep an eye on your shutter speed, where you can lower it to lower your iso. I’m totally comfortable now shooting handheld with a higher iso. I even shot at iso 18,000 (should have lowered my shutter speed) after denoise in Lightroom perfectly useable sharpe image
@@minus1db The max iso feature actually works well. I have to agree minus1db, todays cameras handle iso very well, and it’s not so much a concern to bump it up and still maintain reasonable noise. Although 18,000 is a bit too high for me. 😜
ISO is almost unimportant anymore. Even entry level cameras today can handle 3200 or 5000 and make clean images, especially with the noise reduction software availble. Shutter speed and aperture are the two creative settings. Set those and let the camera worry about ISO! If you freak out at a certain ISO, set a max.
@@alansach8437 Overall, the blacks and shadows seem to suffer the most at higher iso settings. I.e. if shooting astro, or if a person favorably shoots to the left-side of the histogram as a style. I still feel it’s best to get it right in camera under these circumstances, and I personally still favor lower iso settings as part of my decision making but Lr’s recent noise reduction is certainly a game changer.
Mark this was a very informative video, thanks. I've been shooting handheld more. Recently on a multi-day rafting trip in Idaho, I brought a very light kit and I didn't bring my tripod. I was able to get sharp images at 1/6 and 1/5 of a second. I wanted this shutter speed to semi-blur rapids, waterfalls, and rain. My kit was a Nikon Z6 with the 24-70mm f/4 S-line lens. As many of the comments below indicate I turned on IBS, got into a stable and self-supporting position, leaned against something stable when I could, held my breath, rolled my finger over the shutter release button, and shot short bursts. My hit rate was about 50% with images in the middle of the bursts generally being the most sharp. In Lightroom, I used "Auto-stack by Capture Time" to group the bursts to make reviewing and culling easier. I was able to get a few portfolio-worthy results.
If your shutter speed is about 1/focal length (time in seconds, length in mm in the ramge approx. 35-135 mm), your images should be sharp even without any stabilisation. For shorter lengths, use double time, for 200-400mm, use half the time. I've been taking handheld photos of flying birds without stabilisation and with manual focus and manual aperture using 30+ years old lenses for quite some time. Also, when using vintage lenses with IBIS, you need to set the focal length properly. If you set it too high, it will make opposite effect. And if you use IBIS with vintage zoom lenses, set it to lowest focal length.
Hi Mark, Thanks for sharing, all good tips. I guess you travelled with James, Mads Peter and Nigel ? I usually shoot handheld during daylight unless I need longer exposure for a waterfall or so. When you're in a landscape or city, you can also use an object to put the camera onto. Also poles or trees can help by firmly hold the camera against while taking the photo with a longer exposure than would be possible handheld
As some have likely written, trees, walls and rocks really have helped me in low light emergencies. Hadn't thought of cradling my camera. I recently shot at ISO 5000 with my Canon R5. That setting with post noise reduction software is changing the game for me. Good session. Question answe: my old Manfrotto 055MF4 is a well designed companion and I have it for many of my outdoor sessions. Half with, half hand-held. Thanks
This video could not have come at a better time for me. I'm about to shoot in some seriously harsh changing and low light conditions and I'm not allowed to bring a tripod. I really want to nail this. So despite my hatred of camera straps, I'm going to bring it and hope it'll be enough to nail the shots. So thanks for this!
I use a Canon R7, mostly for birding. The relatively light weight of the camera body makes it susceptible to shutter shock, and images are considerable sharper when using the electronic shutter or the first-curtain electronic shutter (which avoids rolling shutter). Though I was initially surprised, the difference is dramatic even with fast shutter speeds.
@@gumpoyler I love my R7, especially for birding, which is my principle application. But shutter shock with the mechanical shutter is significant; in fact, I'm surprised that it doesn't get cited more often and curious as to your impression? Fortunately, it's easy to avoid, with the first-curtain electronic shutter, which still allows for 15 fps. Despite significant rolling shutter, I still use the electronic shutter about 80% of the time, switching to first-curtain mainly for birds in flight.
🌟QUICK QUESTION: Do you mostly photograph handheld or on a tripod?
Carrying a tripod is a nuisance for ordinary people who have difficulty taking time to take pictures. So I put my d750 into my ruckack during commuting to work.
* I forgot to thank you for uploading a valuable video. =)
99% handheld, but then I'm a casual opportunist snapper and rarely set out with specific shots in mind. Mostly aiming for wildlife, but if a nice view catches my eye...
Only exception is my occasional experimentation with astro.
Mostly shoot with a tripod but am starting to try more hand held after getting a mirrorless camera that can handle higher ISO. Lr DeNoise has also been helpful.
Handheld
I have a tripod that just sits and hold a bird cover daytime 😂 yea I like handheld and my eye at the viewfinder
Will try the shoulder trick and see how that works
As a one legged photographer that gets around on crutches only, I utilizes all these techniques. I would add one more, I find it helpful to use the 2 second shutter delay to settle, relax, stop breathing etc. I also just sit down a lot. I use a tripod about half the time.
Very informative video. Thanks. I want to add one more point. After I started using back button focus, my photos are much sharper than before.
There's a sixth technique that pros often use to ensure sharp photos, assuming your shutter speed is at or above 1/4sec, and that is to set the camera to 4 or 5 frames per second. Typically, it's when someone first pushes the shutter release that the most shake takes place-for a variety of reasons from the physical press itself to anxiety jitters at the moment of release. If you shoot at 4-5fps you have a far greater chance of capturing a frame that gets past those issues as your body settles in to the shooting process, and simultaneously ensures a shot that comes in between natural inhales or exhales (which is also helpful).
One more suggestion - use burst mode to shoot. It will increase the chance of getting sharper images.
In planetary astrophotography, we call that “lucky imaging”! A very long time ago, a Nikon DSC (Coolpix 950? maybe) had this built in. It had a mode that automatically took a burst of images and automatically selected the sharpest one. That was a cool way to take a sharp pix!!!
Also the first shot when you press the shutter is often blurry because you pressed the shutter, so the other pictures are definitely going to be sharper.
I do this a lot, “continuous high” on Nikon
Spray and pray is not the way
@@ozarksdigitalcreations9254 I would disagree. Search for “Lucky Imaging Astrophotography” on UA-cam. The very first video on my search results is from a guy who shot 2500 frames to make a single sharp photo of the Ring Nebula. There are countless videos like this. The principle is well proven. For this case, when a person is on a boat that is moving, it is completely obvious that if they take a bunch of shots, some of them will be sharp and some will be blurry. If the exposure time is long, it might take a whole lot of shots. But eventually, if they are persistent, one will be sharp. I speak from proven experience for both the boat and the lucky imaging astrophotography.
I never shoot with a tripod unless I’m doing longe exposure. Never saw the need for it.
Same
It’s also helpful to lean against something like a fence, pole or tree to stabilize the camera.
Save your time, nothing substantial here, every thing is repeated 3 different times, and everything is basic common sense being presented like as if man just landed on the moon 🙄
Thanks mark. In low light conditions (would not work on a boat) I use trees (including stumps), walls, fences, rocks, my car etc as supports. Now days I rarely use a tripod. I have found as I have got older carying a heavy tripod on a steep, long hikes takes a lot of the pleasure away from the walk. I have also become more tolerent of a little bit of noise. Recently I have bought a micro 4/3 camera for day walks. I know its limitations and work within these. Sure its dynamic range is not as good as my full frame canon, but its IBIS and lack of weight more than counter these. I kid you not I can get sharp images up to 2 seconds (some people claim they get up to 3 seconds) hand held.
Recently went Whale watching in Iceland out of Húsavík, obviously on a moving boat and tripod was out of the question. Used all of your suggested stable platform tips but also raised the ISO up to 800 even though the light was very bright which gave a shutter speed of 1/800 sec, f14 @300mm. The images were really sharp and very little noise despite using an elderly Nikon D3300. As another person has suggested, I used burst mode (5 frames per sec) and it really helped 😉 got some great Whale fluke shots even at 300mm handheld
Use the Sony A7RV - you never need a tripod anymore... 😅
Topaz would argue with you re can't sharpen out blurred photos. But I'm with you. Whether Sharpen AI or Photo AI, I don't like the way either sharpens. I can't say I have ever seen a sharpened image that looks as good as an out of camera sharp one. Noise reduction is great though.
Great video Mark, I shot for years handheld, because I didn't wan to lug around a tripod . I used to have a Canon 6 D and a 24-27 2.8 l lenses ! this is an amazing lenses , pricey but no Image stabilization. The 6 D certainly didn't have IBS . My EOS R doesn't have IBS either and I can't pony up 2500.00 dollars to buy one that does. So I would say practice ,practice, practice !
if it is very windy and the leaves and branches are moving, you have to also lower with the closing time, also with tripod
Great video. "It's better to have a noisy photo that is in focus than an out of focus image with no noise."
This. And do experiments to see how high of an ISO is acceptable on the camera being used. It's amazing how high gives good results.
For something like walking around town or the fairgrounds on a sunny day, your last resort should be first: put the shutter speed up. Then lower it as the light dims and start using those techniques.
Had a camera in my hand since I was 10 ! Never went anywhere ... trying to take pics at ISO 100 without a tripod ! Who does that?
Doing a parade? Start off at 800 & check that shutter speed at the 1st few shots ! It's not 1980 anymore.
'Grainy' pics only come into the equation, if you're shooting for a Nat Geo magazine cover.
You were standing next to a tripod that looked like a tree. I’ve used a tree as a brace a few times. I’ve also placed my camera on the ground to minimize camera shake.
I'm curious... When using the elbow method, do we need big guns and shoulders like yours?😂
I shoot in auto ISO while I manually adjust my aperture and shutter speed. This may not always be ideal for landscape shots, but if the conditions are not great or you or the subject is moving around a lot, it works wonders
I've had success screwing a 1/4" eye bolt into the camera's tripod/accessory mount and tied to a cord that I'd step on with a good amount of tension. And I've had to get it into my head that ISO >100 is not evil! Gone are the days when you were stuck with whatever film speed you had in your camera, or switching from 100 to 400 for dusk or dawn shots.
I keep a piece of paracord in all my bags for this reason. Weighs next to nothing. I also use the Black Rapid type 1/4 D-ring eye in the tripod hole of my grip or on longer tele lenses for carrying so I usually have one with me and thus have a spot to tie to. The paracord is super useful for a foot brace with a tripod too.
Another thought on the tripod/hand held debate. This is not just regulated to camera stability. For some like me, it is helpful for slower thinking processes. I took up photography three years ago at age 50. I've always been a slower, more methodical thinker and it is getting slower as I age. I found the tripod gave me time to think about my newely learned camera settings for the first couple of years. I could fiddle with the settings without also holding the camera. Sounds silly, but it worked great for me.
Now that I'm a tiny bit more experienced, I'm becoming much more comfortable with hand held and I'm using that probably 70% of the time.
Finally, I'll often use the back screen when on tripod and the view finder when hand held.
Great videos as always Mark. You were the first UA-cam photographer I found and I've always enjoyed your insights.
Some great tips there Mark, thank you. Another way I find that extra platform stablisation is to try and find something solid to lean up against, in your case on the boat, maybe leaning up against the main mast or the cabin top. I often lean up against a solid object, such as street post, brick wall, edge of a building etc. Keep the tips coming.
I do this all the time. Either lean my head using eyefinder on camera, not the live view, or actually lean camera lens against tree. Building wall corners can work well. Elbows on car hoods. Lots of options work very well. Other approaches is monopod, with a ball head attached to get convenient height and angle. Same with a Platypod. Tripods are my last resort, usually only in very dark environments. So inflexible, so slow to adjust/move in dynamic conditions.
I like your tip about raising ISO, Mark. I use a Canon 6D DSLR which gives great results for landscape up to 3200 and I have obtained satisfactory results at up to 6400.
It's difficult to persuade fellow landscape photographers to raise ISO much above 100, and in making this decision they are effectively tethering themsleves to a tripod most of the time.
Using manual mode with auto ISO and restricting the auto ISO range to suit your preference is a great idea. This means that you can take advantage of spontaneous photo opportunities as they arise which would be lost whilst setting up the tripod. Mostly this just means shooting at up to ISO 1600, which will give great results on most modern DSLRs and mirrorless.
I have recently started to use a lightweight (1 kg) carbon fibre tripod which is easily transportable in the side storage of my camera bag, because tripods are undeniably useful in low light conditions. The problem was that I had a bigger, heavier tripod but could never be bothered to take it on photo hikes, so either I left it at home or I would photograph fairly close to where my car was parked...
I'm definitely with you on the points you made 👌
Great tips for a difficult shooting situation. I would add to take a breath and slowly exhale while pressing the shutter - holding your breath is actually LESS stable.
I'm kicking myself for not adding that one as well - it's helped me a ton over the years! I might make a follow up to this video, theres some great suggestions in the comments here.
I shoot both with and without my tripod-- Usually without on things like birds- insects- flowers etc-- I almost always use auto ISO and set my shutter speed to 2 times my focal length. I really do not worry about noise with Topaz Denoise and LR Denoise programs. I never shoot through the back LCD when I hand hold I always use the view finder-- At almost 70 I am not steady enough to hold it away from my face and since I wear glasses and sunglasses I can't see on the LCD well enough to get a proper shot.
When I shoot handheld in low light for wildlife, I find shooting in burst-mode will give me at least one sharp image out of the burst (also using the three points of contact). For me, I can shoot 1/50 at 400mm and still get a sharp shot (for those animals just hanging around like moose before sunrise).
I have two more techniques: 1) For your left hand that supports under your lens, rather than hold it near the camera body, hold/support your lens near the front element. This also works when holding binoculars to your face, but then put both hands near the front for a steadier view. 2) Attach your tripod or monopod and extend it, but then hold you camera up so your tripod (or monopod) is not touching the boat’s deck. It’s a poor-man’s steady cam. It works by making a longer moment of rotational inertia, so your camera movement is slowed at least in some of the rotational axises.
#2 is interesting. I've not ever thought of that before. I live about as far on planet earth from oceans that you can do the boat platform rarely pops up in my experience but I do have a lot of windy days. I wonder if that would work in wind?
I would add using electronic shutter instead of mechanical.
Hi Mark, This is from a relatively new photographer and I'm not sure this even applies to this video. What are your thoughts on putting the camera in manual then estimating the aperture and speed settings then selecting auto ISO?
Thanks
One more suggestion, set ISO to auto, then you only need focus on aperture and speed settings.
I wonder at the crossover between rifle shooting and photography. I always learned when target shooting off-shoulder to brace, breathe all the way in, breathe out halfway and gently squeeze the trigger. I do a similar process for my camera work these days. I know sometimes you just need to snap-snap-snap and not all situations allow for a few seconds to mellow out and take the shake and tension from the body, but when I can it works for me and the breathwork helps to keep me calm and agile for longer.
Nice tips Mark! I sometimes use a technique with breathing in tandem to your tips. I’ve found that while inhaling, at the moment just before exhaling, I’ll release the shutter.
This is a deliberately long smooth breath which helps me to relax and be in the moment.
Yes I do the same and which I would’ve mentioned that in the video as well
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Ha, I can think of many times I wish I could have gone back and added something to my videos that I overlooked. 🤔
I too find the breathing technique to work well. Sqeeeeeze the shutter right at the point where you switch from inhale to exhale or vice versa. I particularly use it if I'm at a slow shutter speed. For me, the act of taking longer, slower breaths also seems to keep my body more quiet.
@@briangalipeau8933 Definitely something to be said about quieting the body and mind. I always felt there’s more than just the photograph, there’s an experience.
Thanks for the tips! What is that red camera strap that you have?
Ok, I've now watched a couple of your vids and they have some great things I'd never considered. Am subscribed.
Great to hear this - thank ya!
If only this video was released one year early when I started landscape photography as hobby it was going to save me a lot of troubles figuring out why most of my photos are out of focus when I am shooting handheld, because I was trying shooting in very slow shutter speed and my Nikon D7100 doesn't have IBIS making things even worse...😅😅😅
Anyway very practical video for newly starting phootographers!
This is why you never shoot in auto. Camera will set your shutter speed to some ridiculous low number. Shoot in shutter priority, with auto Iso, max 6400
Yeah Aperture Priority can do more harm than good, and get OFF ISO 100!
R5 can go 1/60 handheld. Tack sharp
I shoot hand held most of the time, but I use the viewfinder exclusively. That way I have the camera against my face, both hands supporting it and elbows tucked in for stability. I often sit on the ground, or even lie prone, depending on the subject and the conditions. Naturally I use as high a shutter as I can, but that isn't always the ideal shutter speed for my situation. That's when technology comes to the rescue. My Canon R5 with in body stabilization combines with stabilized RF lenses to give me more freedom than ever before.
It appears you are left eye dominant, I am too. I believe we are in the minority, and it makes for a greasy LCD screen from the nose contact. Ever notice that?
hahah yes!
As long as it fits with your desired composition never overlook the use of an immovable object as a body support , tree , fence post, wall, doorway , pole and perhaps even the boat, it might be easier to adjust for subtle boat moments with your hands rather than your feet . 😀 These days I only use a tripod either for ND shots, focus stacking or when there just isn’t enough light 😀
I’m agree . . . I hardly use my tripod because I find it limits my flexibility in getting the best angle for my shot. I also find that leaning against a stationary object, if available, allows me to be more relaxed when I’m shooting.
An old school tip that I used in my days as an archaoelogical site photographer on urban 'rescue archaeology' excavations (1980s and 1990s) where the photographic record was often the primary source for archaelologists creating the academic reports after the event when the archaology had destroyed the physical elements. It was often impossible or impractical to set up a tripod, and small apertures were required to record the necessary levels of detail, using film cameras and slow speed films (typically ISO 125 mono or ISO100 transparency), so I would employ all the methods suggested by Mark, but additionally always carried a small bean bag that could be used to support the camera - the bag would readlly mould onto most surfaces and provide a stable support for the camera. In the absence of a bean bag, a rolled up jacket or somesuch can be used as a temporary support.
I also learned to master the art of balancing on camera flashguns with the existing daylight for objects and scenes within the range of the flash discharges. This can be a great help with low-light/high-contrast scenarios, translating to today's workflows this can be a very helpful technique to add a flexible image file that's easier to manipulate in image editors. Apology that this is longer than intended.
The strap thing I dint try it but a couple of times when I was trying a lens I put the lens against my neck righ below the ear and moved it with the head. I think it is the same concept as the strap or the elbow and it definitely helped. It was 10 times better than the tripod I had.
But that only worked cause I was seeing the image on another screen close to me
Two other methods to get sharp images and video.
1. Lean against a solid object
2. Sit down and place your elbows on your knees while using the face brace. This is the absolute most stable method I use. Works especially well for video.
Yes, lean against a tree...like the one right next to Mark during the whole video. I was waiting for that suggestion but it never came!
Though loath to cite advantages to being wheelchair bound, I find bracing my elbows on the chair armrests confers a tripod-like stability, which is hard to beat. It also works extremely well for video.
I was on a Mediterranean cruise in 2019, and was shooting with my little Canon G5X II. Our ship left Venice just about dark. I went on the balcony of our stateroom and started shooting pictures. I was really surprised at how well the pictures turned out. My favorite shows St. Mark’s and that area with light reflections in the water. I like it so well that I had it framed and mounted. Friends in two other states have copies hanging on their walls. I realize that a cruise ship is more stable than a sailboat, but I was still impressed getting good results in low light from a moving ship. I don’t recall the ISO of this particular shot, but probably 3200. The only noise problem was in the expanse of very dark blue sky, where there was no detail anyway. Moderate noise reduction was enough to make it not show up in 13” x 19” prints.
Great advice! I just started doing something that has helped me out a bit when it comes to hand holding my camera. I don't have in body stabilization in my camera and I was using a 50-100mm with no stabilization in it either, so I started using the 2 second timer, and it allowed me to be extra still before the shutter opened. Now I know you can't use this with every scene, but if you are shooting something that's not moving, it works very well. Thanks!!
I mostly shoot landscape and likely do 75% of my shots in late golden hour well into blue hour. I almost never use a tripod for this only really using it for astro or for long exposures of water. Looking back at shutter speed getting in the range of 1/10 of a second is not a big issue. I also dont have much issue shooting HDR stacks usually with a 1EV3 setting. Between 3 shots its a much longer effective shutter speed though I know lightroom corrects for some of that in the HDR merge but only between images not for individual images in the stack. If I set zoom in LR to 200 % or so I start to see lack of sharpness but not before that. I think your techniques mentioned are good, I always use the view finder so have the face point of contact and had not realized it before your video but nearly always shoot with my arms tucked as well. If its getting way too dark I also will kind of loop my strap around my elbow in a way that it really holds the camera tight to my body and face sometimes. If it works for the shot angle and is getting quite dark I also sometimes sit and lock my ankles together and rest the lens on my knee is a similar technique to how you would stabilize a rifle for long range shooting from a seated position. I never really understood why I see so many landscape photogrophers shoot from a tripod in lighting conditions where they have very fast shutter speeds. I am planning to make a point of using a tripod a little more this fall, though I tend to move around and shoot a similar shot with so many variations on composition that I would end up trying far fewer shots if using a tripod so I feel like it would be a real limitation outside of scenarios where you really want a long exposure to smooth out clouds or water. Upgrading to a better tripod might make me want to use it more as well, my Vanguard is ok but not good, considering a RRS TFC-24L, if nothing else it will help my nightscape shots. Anyway, as always great video!
Monopods are dead handy for when you can't or don't want to use a tripod. They're light, don't take up much space and don't get in other peoples' way. With your feet set apart and a monopod your three points of contact are not limited to your body, one of the 'struts' is completely rigid and you could still use most of your other techniques (for which thanks!).
Most of my work is done in an ice rink, dance studio, or during a stage performance so it's almost all handheld for me. when I do landscape I usually have my tripod because I like to do long exposure photos. As far as ISO goes I've learned not to fear pushing it. Thanks for the great video.
Wonderful tips for taking sharp pictures with handheld cameras all the points have been discussed with exceptional clarity! The idea of taking a grainy picture rather than an unsharp picture is invaluable! The shutter speed combination with the focal length and different stances of shooting handheld have been so important know-hows few people know about! Lastly I want to add to is to take a slightly under exposed picture cranking up the shutter one or even two stops while taking being pressed to compromise the iso and aperture would make the pictures easier to adjustment without getting a grainy picture; I don't know how to manage graininess because I know very little about light room techniques to improve a picture! Thank you for all the valuable knowhows for pictures being unshrap!
Not all cameras have in-camera stabilization. The Nikon D850, for example.
Another critical thing that helps with stabilization is to have strong arms and legs, especially if using long, heavy lenses. Make your own body the strongest tripod in the world! So, hit the gym, if you don’t already!
Thanks Mark for very informative and practical tips. If I am using 100-400 mm lens and photographing hand held at 100 mm , shall I set 1/100 shutter speed or 1/400 shutter speed.
I use a tripod but that is also because im have to record video for my youtube videos. If i want to show what im doing i just need it. And i think it works better to get the best compositions. Look at those details on the edges is much easyer on a tripod. But shooting without it is much more fun thats for sure. In just wondering mark why do you use a QR code on the side of your video. I recently read that more then 70 percent of youtube video are watched on mobile devices so most people wont be able to scan the code. Just a little tip do with it whatever younwant 😊 ow and just one thing to add if you dont want a tripod to carry around considder a monopod. I dont use it myself but i kbow some friend find it realy good to work with and easy to carry around. Great video btw as always! Grt guido
Rarely use my tripod outdoors. I found that using the 'burst mode' is effective. Nice video. Thanks , Mark.
Good stuff as usual. One of the things I'd like to change is to go from a "tripod first" to a "tripod if handheld won't suffice" mindset. Mirrorless stabilization is so good these days that I probably can get by with handheld more often than I could with my DSLR. Also, I find using a Hoodman loupe in the field greatly helps me in checking for focus.
My wife gave me a very nice Milano tripod that can also be used as a monopod....compact, light, quick and very portable. I use it that way mostly for video, but it's also quick & handy for stills
Thanks for these tips Mark, as I have 'essential tremor' in my right hand/arm, so handheld can be an issue of course. I tend to double my shutter speed for that reason, and as mentioned keep my aperture where I want it, and use 'auto ISO' which has been a godsend. After checking my image, I can then re-take using exposure compensation.
Real good points made in this video. I have learned a ton and plan on trying the arm tuck to see how that works. I like tripods but they are cumbersome. A lot of times I like to take off with just a couple of lenses packed and keep the gear down. So I need to develop a better posture for creating stability.
One thing that was left out in this video though (I'm surprised as you by a bunch of trees) was to try leaning on a structure. In a forest, there are plenty of trees to lean on. By me there are some big rocks to lean against also. I have leaned on both and found my camera stability improved, and I got decent shots.
Also, if one is in the woods, don't be afraid to get closer to the ground. The shots are usually interesting at lower levels, and there's a ton of stability to be found. I love shooting prone to the ground! Can't always do this though, so this video gives a lot of good things to try when standing up!!
I "chimp" quite often. My fiancee expresses frustration because I even do it when I'm shooting birds 😅😅.
Good tips! I generally rely on my OM-1 IBIS, which gives pretty good results even for exposures of more than 1 second.
However, there might be a few other options.
How useful would a gimbal mount be for stills? Or a gyro-stabiliser (e.g. Kenyon Gyro Stabilizer KS-4×4)?
Man!
IBIS is giving you 1" handheld?
@@prithvim7 yes!
Hey Mark, thanks for this. I’m new to using a DSLR and tips like this are getting me going. Question regarding your “one over” rule of thumb. I assume you’re talking about the effective focal length of the lens? I’m using a Canon EOS Rebel with a crop sensor, so my 50mm prime lens gives me more like an 80mm focal length. Would you recommend 1/80 or 1/160 shutter speed in this case?
Do you feel AUTO ISO is a acceptable aspect of Handheld Photography.??
just get used to shooting always as in step 4. Step 5 I can't do due to a bad left shoulder/titanium implant. An extra tip that works for me hold your breath and shoot at least 3 shots in quick succession, at least one of them will come up sharper than the other two as vibrations from multiple sources have the tendency to cancel each other.
The sharpness of a photograph is of very limited importance. It makes no sense to enlarge an image by 200 or 400% on a screen, and if it's a paper print, no one is going to put their eye to the image. The quest for sharpness is nothing more than a sales pitch by photographic equipment manufacturers, constantly and unreflectively repeated on the networks.
Surely the tip about how to hold a camera (no4?) Is lesson no1 for any photographer? I was taught that 50yrs ago, and it's never left me.
2:34 I'm shocked Look carefully You will see a ghost in the background.
Very good thought: Better some noise (more ISO) which can be reduced later than a photograph that is not sharply focused.
Hi Mark I use my left arm with my left hand on my right shoulder, I have some good panos created this way. Thanks 😊
Elementary on a boat: Use your viewfinder. And as you can do nothing about the moving platform, you can least make sure you don't overcompensate the movement. So lean onto a wall or other fixed structure. And of course you need the right shutter speed to freeze the movement! If your pictures are noisy at ISO 3200, you might want to consider getting a newer camera...
You forgot one important thing. Breath properly. It can help is stabilizing the camera.
I never thought about the camera strap idea. That’s a great idea!! I don’t use a camera strap, but I may have to buy one for just that reason. Thanks for sharing!!
Reason 158 why my photos aren’t sharp.
🤣
Hey Mark. Great subject. Thanks for sharing. I mostly shoot handheld and I have been doing so since my first 35mm SLR a long time ago so I am familiar with most of the techniques but I when I need to change camera settings I usually only increase ISO to about 800 and then make adjust aperture and/or shutter speed depending on what I'm trying to do with the photo. I am going to your approach on camera settings when I go on vacation next month when I will not be able to take a tripod with me. Thanks again.
A smaller lighter camera and lens wouldn’t hurt. I’d need to hire a porter to haul that gear. Thank heavens no one pays me for my pictures😊
But what are the Camera Settings to start with the for the scenario that you have just described? That would give a benchmark from where the camera settings can be changed? thanks
Could you tell what the red camera strap you are using in this video. I’m looking for a new strong wide one and this one looks great.
learn form the mistakes and use the lessons, Mark these may be reminders for us long timers (and we need to be reminded) they are invaluable to learners and mid range. thanks for the tips. situation promotes tripod or handheld.
Subject motion and breathing technique left the talk..........
Shooting a burst of 3-5 shots will generally yield one which is sharper than the rest.
What about getting rid of the heavy backpack to help your stabilisation
A matching camera strap and T-shirt, lovely :-)
You presented some very good tips. Thank you and I enjoy your videos.
I also use anything stable around me to rest my camera on, fence posts, tree stumps/branches, etc.
generally : thank you... but: way too long explanations....
Using your face as a third point of contact doesn't work if you wear glasses 😢
One very useful way is to lie against some fixed materials like a wall or a tree while still holding with your hands.
When having to bump up your iso can’t you just use auto iso?
I occasionally use auto ISO but awareness is critical imo, because you may set it, then really forget it only to later discover unfavorable ISO captures. Especially if the light is dramatically changing.
Most cameras allow you to set a max iso when in auto, it’s funny as a landscape photographer I always insisted on a tripod and iso 64. I was so rigid with this. I have started doing street photography and use auto iso as default, just keep an eye on your shutter speed, where you can lower it to lower your iso. I’m totally comfortable now shooting handheld with a higher iso. I even shot at iso 18,000 (should have lowered my shutter speed) after denoise in Lightroom perfectly useable sharpe image
@@minus1db The max iso feature actually works well. I have to agree minus1db, todays cameras handle iso very well, and it’s not so much a concern to bump it up and still maintain reasonable noise. Although 18,000 is a bit too high for me. 😜
ISO is almost unimportant anymore. Even entry level cameras today can handle 3200 or 5000 and make clean images, especially with the noise reduction software availble. Shutter speed and aperture are the two creative settings. Set those and let the camera worry about ISO! If you freak out at a certain ISO, set a max.
@@alansach8437 Overall, the blacks and shadows seem to suffer the most at higher iso settings. I.e. if shooting astro, or if a person favorably shoots to the left-side of the histogram as a style. I still feel it’s best to get it right in camera under these circumstances, and I personally still favor lower iso settings as part of my decision making but Lr’s recent noise reduction is certainly a game changer.
Good info. The vast majority of my shots are handheld.
Handheld except my 4x5 or medium format camera
I really like your videos. Remember to breathe 😀
Another great video and advice. Thanks
What about sitting or prone rather than standing, Mark?
How about using someone else’s shoulder.
Many thanks, Mark. Great video.
Nicely explained for beginners
Very helpful suggestions!
Mark this was a very informative video, thanks. I've been shooting handheld more. Recently on a multi-day rafting trip in Idaho, I brought a very light kit and I didn't bring my tripod. I was able to get sharp images at 1/6 and 1/5 of a second. I wanted this shutter speed to semi-blur rapids, waterfalls, and rain. My kit was a Nikon Z6 with the 24-70mm f/4 S-line lens. As many of the comments below indicate I turned on IBS, got into a stable and self-supporting position, leaned against something stable when I could, held my breath, rolled my finger over the shutter release button, and shot short bursts. My hit rate was about 50% with images in the middle of the bursts generally being the most sharp. In Lightroom, I used "Auto-stack by Capture Time" to group the bursts to make reviewing and culling easier. I was able to get a few portfolio-worthy results.
If your shutter speed is about 1/focal length (time in seconds, length in mm in the ramge approx. 35-135 mm), your images should be sharp even without any stabilisation.
For shorter lengths, use double time, for 200-400mm, use half the time. I've been taking handheld photos of flying birds without stabilisation and with manual focus and manual aperture using 30+ years old lenses for quite some time.
Also, when using vintage lenses with IBIS, you need to set the focal length properly. If you set it too high, it will make opposite effect. And if you use IBIS with vintage zoom lenses, set it to lowest focal length.
Hi Mark, Thanks for sharing, all good tips. I guess you travelled with James, Mads Peter and Nigel ? I usually shoot handheld during daylight unless I need longer exposure for a waterfall or so. When you're in a landscape or city, you can also use an object to put the camera onto. Also poles or trees can help by firmly hold the camera against while taking the photo with a longer exposure than would be possible handheld
As some have likely written, trees, walls and rocks really have helped me in low light emergencies. Hadn't thought of cradling my camera. I recently shot at ISO 5000 with my Canon R5. That setting with post noise reduction software is changing the game for me. Good session. Question answe: my old Manfrotto 055MF4 is a well designed companion and I have it for many of my outdoor sessions. Half with, half hand-held. Thanks
This video could not have come at a better time for me. I'm about to shoot in some seriously harsh changing and low light conditions and I'm not allowed to bring a tripod. I really want to nail this. So despite my hatred of camera straps, I'm going to bring it and hope it'll be enough to nail the shots. So thanks for this!
I use a Canon R7, mostly for birding. The relatively light weight of the camera body makes it susceptible to shutter shock, and images are considerable sharper when using the electronic shutter or the first-curtain electronic shutter (which avoids rolling shutter). Though I was initially surprised, the difference is dramatic even with fast shutter speeds.
Agreed I use r7 and am very happy with it
@@gumpoyler I love my R7, especially for birding, which is my principle application. But shutter shock with the mechanical shutter is significant; in fact, I'm surprised that it doesn't get cited more often and curious as to your impression? Fortunately, it's easy to avoid, with the first-curtain electronic shutter, which still allows for 15 fps. Despite significant rolling shutter, I still use the electronic shutter about 80% of the time, switching to first-curtain mainly for birds in flight.