That's Why Your Handheld Photos AREN'T Sharp
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
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In this week’s episode, we discuss why your handheld photos aren't sharp and how you can fix them moving forward. I just returned home from my Greenland Workshop where we were photographing in some of the most difficult handheld conditions imaginable - low light during blue hour on a moving sailboat all handheld, doesn't get more difficult than that! And in this video, I'll walk you through the techniques I worked with the participants on in order to get sharp handheld photographs. I hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.
💥VIDEO CHAPTERS
First: OIS & IBIS 1:10
Second: Strap Tension 1:35
Third: Elbow Tuck 2:56
Fourth: Face Brace 4:27
Fifth: Elbow Platform 6:05
Sixth: Best Camera Settings 6:42
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🌟QUICK QUESTION: Do you mostly photograph handheld or on a tripod?
Carrying a tripod is a nuisance for ordinary people who have difficulty taking time to take pictures. So I put my d750 into my ruckack during commuting to work.
* I forgot to thank you for uploading a valuable video. =)
99% handheld, but then I'm a casual opportunist snapper and rarely set out with specific shots in mind. Mostly aiming for wildlife, but if a nice view catches my eye...
Only exception is my occasional experimentation with astro.
Mostly shoot with a tripod but am starting to try more hand held after getting a mirrorless camera that can handle higher ISO. Lr DeNoise has also been helpful.
Handheld
I have a tripod that just sits and hold a bird cover daytime 😂 yea I like handheld and my eye at the viewfinder
Will try the shoulder trick and see how that works
As a one legged photographer that gets around on crutches only, I utilizes all these techniques. I would add one more, I find it helpful to use the 2 second shutter delay to settle, relax, stop breathing etc. I also just sit down a lot. I use a tripod about half the time.
There's a sixth technique that pros often use to ensure sharp photos, assuming your shutter speed is at or above 1/4sec, and that is to set the camera to 4 or 5 frames per second. Typically, it's when someone first pushes the shutter release that the most shake takes place-for a variety of reasons from the physical press itself to anxiety jitters at the moment of release. If you shoot at 4-5fps you have a far greater chance of capturing a frame that gets past those issues as your body settles in to the shooting process, and simultaneously ensures a shot that comes in between natural inhales or exhales (which is also helpful).
It’s also helpful to lean against something like a fence, pole or tree to stabilize the camera.
Very informative video. Thanks. I want to add one more point. After I started using back button focus, my photos are much sharper than before.
One more suggestion - use burst mode to shoot. It will increase the chance of getting sharper images.
In planetary astrophotography, we call that “lucky imaging”! A very long time ago, a Nikon DSC (Coolpix 950? maybe) had this built in. It had a mode that automatically took a burst of images and automatically selected the sharpest one. That was a cool way to take a sharp pix!!!
Also the first shot when you press the shutter is often blurry because you pressed the shutter, so the other pictures are definitely going to be sharper.
I do this a lot, “continuous high” on Nikon
Spray and pray is not the way
@@ozarksdigitalcreations9254 I would disagree. Search for “Lucky Imaging Astrophotography” on UA-cam. The very first video on my search results is from a guy who shot 2500 frames to make a single sharp photo of the Ring Nebula. There are countless videos like this. The principle is well proven. For this case, when a person is on a boat that is moving, it is completely obvious that if they take a bunch of shots, some of them will be sharp and some will be blurry. If the exposure time is long, it might take a whole lot of shots. But eventually, if they are persistent, one will be sharp. I speak from proven experience for both the boat and the lucky imaging astrophotography.
Thanks mark. In low light conditions (would not work on a boat) I use trees (including stumps), walls, fences, rocks, my car etc as supports. Now days I rarely use a tripod. I have found as I have got older carying a heavy tripod on a steep, long hikes takes a lot of the pleasure away from the walk. I have also become more tolerent of a little bit of noise. Recently I have bought a micro 4/3 camera for day walks. I know its limitations and work within these. Sure its dynamic range is not as good as my full frame canon, but its IBIS and lack of weight more than counter these. I kid you not I can get sharp images up to 2 seconds (some people claim they get up to 3 seconds) hand held.
Ok, I've now watched a couple of your vids and they have some great things I'd never considered. Am subscribed.
Great to hear this - thank ya!
Great tips for a difficult shooting situation. I would add to take a breath and slowly exhale while pressing the shutter - holding your breath is actually LESS stable.
I'm kicking myself for not adding that one as well - it's helped me a ton over the years! I might make a follow up to this video, theres some great suggestions in the comments here.
Very beautifully covered these points Mark. Thanks and have a lovely weekend
Many thanks, Mark. Great video.
Excellent video Mark
Another thought on the tripod/hand held debate. This is not just regulated to camera stability. For some like me, it is helpful for slower thinking processes. I took up photography three years ago at age 50. I've always been a slower, more methodical thinker and it is getting slower as I age. I found the tripod gave me time to think about my newely learned camera settings for the first couple of years. I could fiddle with the settings without also holding the camera. Sounds silly, but it worked great for me.
Now that I'm a tiny bit more experienced, I'm becoming much more comfortable with hand held and I'm using that probably 70% of the time.
Finally, I'll often use the back screen when on tripod and the view finder when hand held.
Great videos as always Mark. You were the first UA-cam photographer I found and I've always enjoyed your insights.
You presented some very good tips. Thank you and I enjoy your videos.
Recently went Whale watching in Iceland out of Húsavík, obviously on a moving boat and tripod was out of the question. Used all of your suggested stable platform tips but also raised the ISO up to 800 even though the light was very bright which gave a shutter speed of 1/800 sec, f14 @300mm. The images were really sharp and very little noise despite using an elderly Nikon D3300. As another person has suggested, I used burst mode (5 frames per sec) and it really helped 😉 got some great Whale fluke shots even at 300mm handheld
For something like walking around town or the fairgrounds on a sunny day, your last resort should be first: put the shutter speed up. Then lower it as the light dims and start using those techniques.
Had a camera in my hand since I was 10 ! Never went anywhere ... trying to take pics at ISO 100 without a tripod ! Who does that?
Doing a parade? Start off at 800 & check that shutter speed at the 1st few shots ! It's not 1980 anymore.
'Grainy' pics only come into the equation, if you're shooting for a Nat Geo magazine cover.
Some great tips there Mark, thank you. Another way I find that extra platform stablisation is to try and find something solid to lean up against, in your case on the boat, maybe leaning up against the main mast or the cabin top. I often lean up against a solid object, such as street post, brick wall, edge of a building etc. Keep the tips coming.
I do this all the time. Either lean my head using eyefinder on camera, not the live view, or actually lean camera lens against tree. Building wall corners can work well. Elbows on car hoods. Lots of options work very well. Other approaches is monopod, with a ball head attached to get convenient height and angle. Same with a Platypod. Tripods are my last resort, usually only in very dark environments. So inflexible, so slow to adjust/move in dynamic conditions.
Nicely explained for beginners
Great video as always
I was on a Mediterranean cruise in 2019, and was shooting with my little Canon G5X II. Our ship left Venice just about dark. I went on the balcony of our stateroom and started shooting pictures. I was really surprised at how well the pictures turned out. My favorite shows St. Mark’s and that area with light reflections in the water. I like it so well that I had it framed and mounted. Friends in two other states have copies hanging on their walls. I realize that a cruise ship is more stable than a sailboat, but I was still impressed getting good results in low light from a moving ship. I don’t recall the ISO of this particular shot, but probably 3200. The only noise problem was in the expanse of very dark blue sky, where there was no detail anyway. Moderate noise reduction was enough to make it not show up in 13” x 19” prints.
Very helpful suggestions!
I wonder at the crossover between rifle shooting and photography. I always learned when target shooting off-shoulder to brace, breathe all the way in, breathe out halfway and gently squeeze the trigger. I do a similar process for my camera work these days. I know sometimes you just need to snap-snap-snap and not all situations allow for a few seconds to mellow out and take the shake and tension from the body, but when I can it works for me and the breathwork helps to keep me calm and agile for longer.
Great advice! I just started doing something that has helped me out a bit when it comes to hand holding my camera. I don't have in body stabilization in my camera and I was using a 50-100mm with no stabilization in it either, so I started using the 2 second timer, and it allowed me to be extra still before the shutter opened. Now I know you can't use this with every scene, but if you are shooting something that's not moving, it works very well. Thanks!!
I've had success screwing a 1/4" eye bolt into the camera's tripod/accessory mount and tied to a cord that I'd step on with a good amount of tension. And I've had to get it into my head that ISO >100 is not evil! Gone are the days when you were stuck with whatever film speed you had in your camera, or switching from 100 to 400 for dusk or dawn shots.
I keep a piece of paracord in all my bags for this reason. Weighs next to nothing. I also use the Black Rapid type 1/4 D-ring eye in the tripod hole of my grip or on longer tele lenses for carrying so I usually have one with me and thus have a spot to tie to. The paracord is super useful for a foot brace with a tripod too.
Another great video and advice. Thanks
Great tips! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I shoot in auto ISO while I manually adjust my aperture and shutter speed. This may not always be ideal for landscape shots, but if the conditions are not great or you or the subject is moving around a lot, it works wonders
if it is very windy and the leaves and branches are moving, you have to also lower with the closing time, also with tripod
Great video Mark, I shot for years handheld, because I didn't wan to lug around a tripod . I used to have a Canon 6 D and a 24-27 2.8 l lenses ! this is an amazing lenses , pricey but no Image stabilization. The 6 D certainly didn't have IBS . My EOS R doesn't have IBS either and I can't pony up 2500.00 dollars to buy one that does. So I would say practice ,practice, practice !
I never shoot with a tripod unless I’m doing longe exposure. Never saw the need for it.
Same
Great video. "It's better to have a noisy photo that is in focus than an out of focus image with no noise."
This. And do experiments to see how high of an ISO is acceptable on the camera being used. It's amazing how high gives good results.
Rarely use my tripod outdoors. I found that using the 'burst mode' is effective. Nice video. Thanks , Mark.
Real good points made in this video. I have learned a ton and plan on trying the arm tuck to see how that works. I like tripods but they are cumbersome. A lot of times I like to take off with just a couple of lenses packed and keep the gear down. So I need to develop a better posture for creating stability.
One thing that was left out in this video though (I'm surprised as you by a bunch of trees) was to try leaning on a structure. In a forest, there are plenty of trees to lean on. By me there are some big rocks to lean against also. I have leaned on both and found my camera stability improved, and I got decent shots.
Also, if one is in the woods, don't be afraid to get closer to the ground. The shots are usually interesting at lower levels, and there's a ton of stability to be found. I love shooting prone to the ground! Can't always do this though, so this video gives a lot of good things to try when standing up!!
Really great, Mark. Our annual vacation is on a sailboat. So not only do I usually have only a couple of minutes to get a composition set, I am on a rolling deck in lower light, or bright Caribbean sunshine. Always a challenge.
Thanks Mark. I have never been good at getting really sharp photos handheld below 1/250 sec. I will make sure to use these great tips!
As always, the greatest 10 minute of the week! It’s clear that, to go to the next level, I need to leave my comfort zone as depending too much on the aperture priority mode. As a learning experience, it doesn’t matter what I shoot, I’ll put an hour aside just to focus on making images extra sharp this weekend. Thanks, Mark!
Many thanks - glad you enjoyed it!
I never thought about putting one hand on the opposite shoulder. Thanks for the tips!
I never thought about the camera strap idea. That’s a great idea!! I don’t use a camera strap, but I may have to buy one for just that reason. Thanks for sharing!!
I have two more techniques: 1) For your left hand that supports under your lens, rather than hold it near the camera body, hold/support your lens near the front element. This also works when holding binoculars to your face, but then put both hands near the front for a steadier view. 2) Attach your tripod or monopod and extend it, but then hold you camera up so your tripod (or monopod) is not touching the boat’s deck. It’s a poor-man’s steady cam. It works by making a longer moment of rotational inertia, so your camera movement is slowed at least in some of the rotational axises.
#2 is interesting. I've not ever thought of that before. I live about as far on planet earth from oceans that you can do the boat platform rarely pops up in my experience but I do have a lot of windy days. I wonder if that would work in wind?
Thanks for these tips Mark, as I have 'essential tremor' in my right hand/arm, so handheld can be an issue of course. I tend to double my shutter speed for that reason, and as mentioned keep my aperture where I want it, and use 'auto ISO' which has been a godsend. After checking my image, I can then re-take using exposure compensation.
Good stuff as usual. One of the things I'd like to change is to go from a "tripod first" to a "tripod if handheld won't suffice" mindset. Mirrorless stabilization is so good these days that I probably can get by with handheld more often than I could with my DSLR. Also, I find using a Hoodman loupe in the field greatly helps me in checking for focus.
Most of my work is done in an ice rink, dance studio, or during a stage performance so it's almost all handheld for me. when I do landscape I usually have my tripod because I like to do long exposure photos. As far as ISO goes I've learned not to fear pushing it. Thanks for the great video.
Brilliant.
A matching camera strap and T-shirt, lovely :-)
Hey Mark. Great subject. Thanks for sharing. I mostly shoot handheld and I have been doing so since my first 35mm SLR a long time ago so I am familiar with most of the techniques but I when I need to change camera settings I usually only increase ISO to about 800 and then make adjust aperture and/or shutter speed depending on what I'm trying to do with the photo. I am going to your approach on camera settings when I go on vacation next month when I will not be able to take a tripod with me. Thanks again.
Very good thought: Better some noise (more ISO) which can be reduced later than a photograph that is not sharply focused.
When I shoot handheld in low light for wildlife, I find shooting in burst-mode will give me at least one sharp image out of the burst (also using the three points of contact). For me, I can shoot 1/50 at 400mm and still get a sharp shot (for those animals just hanging around like moose before sunrise).
I shoot both with and without my tripod-- Usually without on things like birds- insects- flowers etc-- I almost always use auto ISO and set my shutter speed to 2 times my focal length. I really do not worry about noise with Topaz Denoise and LR Denoise programs. I never shoot through the back LCD when I hand hold I always use the view finder-- At almost 70 I am not steady enough to hold it away from my face and since I wear glasses and sunglasses I can't see on the LCD well enough to get a proper shot.
I shoot hand held most of the time, but I use the viewfinder exclusively. That way I have the camera against my face, both hands supporting it and elbows tucked in for stability. I often sit on the ground, or even lie prone, depending on the subject and the conditions. Naturally I use as high a shutter as I can, but that isn't always the ideal shutter speed for my situation. That's when technology comes to the rescue. My Canon R5 with in body stabilization combines with stabilized RF lenses to give me more freedom than ever before.
Nice tips Mark! I sometimes use a technique with breathing in tandem to your tips. I’ve found that while inhaling, at the moment just before exhaling, I’ll release the shutter.
This is a deliberately long smooth breath which helps me to relax and be in the moment.
Yes I do the same and which I would’ve mentioned that in the video as well
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Ha, I can think of many times I wish I could have gone back and added something to my videos that I overlooked. 🤔
I too find the breathing technique to work well. Sqeeeeeze the shutter right at the point where you switch from inhale to exhale or vice versa. I particularly use it if I'm at a slow shutter speed. For me, the act of taking longer, slower breaths also seems to keep my body more quiet.
@@briangalipeau8933 Definitely something to be said about quieting the body and mind. I always felt there’s more than just the photograph, there’s an experience.
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Mark this was a very informative video, thanks. I've been shooting handheld more. Recently on a multi-day rafting trip in Idaho, I brought a very light kit and I didn't bring my tripod. I was able to get sharp images at 1/6 and 1/5 of a second. I wanted this shutter speed to semi-blur rapids, waterfalls, and rain. My kit was a Nikon Z6 with the 24-70mm f/4 S-line lens. As many of the comments below indicate I turned on IBS, got into a stable and self-supporting position, leaned against something stable when I could, held my breath, rolled my finger over the shutter release button, and shot short bursts. My hit rate was about 50% with images in the middle of the bursts generally being the most sharp. In Lightroom, I used "Auto-stack by Capture Time" to group the bursts to make reviewing and culling easier. I was able to get a few portfolio-worthy results.
Thanks Mark - I'm going handheld a ton more than I used to. I had visited Greenland last year and low and behold ran into the same issues you just went through. Very thorough/instructive video (as usual) - do you have any suggestions on practice other than just getting out in the field and shooting? Hope things are well.
If only this video was released one year early when I started landscape photography as hobby it was going to save me a lot of troubles figuring out why most of my photos are out of focus when I am shooting handheld, because I was trying shooting in very slow shutter speed and my Nikon D7100 doesn't have IBIS making things even worse...😅😅😅
Anyway very practical video for newly starting phootographers!
I like your tip about raising ISO, Mark. I use a Canon 6D DSLR which gives great results for landscape up to 3200 and I have obtained satisfactory results at up to 6400.
It's difficult to persuade fellow landscape photographers to raise ISO much above 100, and in making this decision they are effectively tethering themsleves to a tripod most of the time.
Using manual mode with auto ISO and restricting the auto ISO range to suit your preference is a great idea. This means that you can take advantage of spontaneous photo opportunities as they arise which would be lost whilst setting up the tripod. Mostly this just means shooting at up to ISO 1600, which will give great results on most modern DSLRs and mirrorless.
I have recently started to use a lightweight (1 kg) carbon fibre tripod which is easily transportable in the side storage of my camera bag, because tripods are undeniably useful in low light conditions. The problem was that I had a bigger, heavier tripod but could never be bothered to take it on photo hikes, so either I left it at home or I would photograph fairly close to where my car was parked...
I'm definitely with you on the points you made 👌
Thanks for the overview!
Using a 2s delay on the shutter for still compositions gives me a combination of:
- moving camera because of pushing the shutter button is reduced (+IBIS/IS doesn't kick in and possibly overcompensates)
- it gives you time to push and then hold your breath while not doing anything else which helps on its own
- it gives me time to be 'in' my scene, so that's not a technical but a mental reward
Better to exhale and stop breathing for a moment than to hold an inhale. Holding an inhale will induce more shake. Learnt that at the Marine Corps rifle range shooting 500 yds with no scope and it works.
My wife gave me a very nice Milano tripod that can also be used as a monopod....compact, light, quick and very portable. I use it that way mostly for video, but it's also quick & handy for stills
Thanks great stuff. I’ll be shooting photos on a moving train next week in Alaska. Hope some of this will help out. Keep up the good work.
Use a monopod, legs not extended against your chest. The fluditity of your body, with isolate a lot of vibrations from the train.
@@1donyt thanks. Great idea and I am taking a monopod.
Great tips! I also sometimes lean against a tree, pole, or other stable structure.
Thank ya!
learn form the mistakes and use the lessons, Mark these may be reminders for us long timers (and we need to be reminded) they are invaluable to learners and mid range. thanks for the tips. situation promotes tripod or handheld.
As long as it fits with your desired composition never overlook the use of an immovable object as a body support , tree , fence post, wall, doorway , pole and perhaps even the boat, it might be easier to adjust for subtle boat moments with your hands rather than your feet . 😀 These days I only use a tripod either for ND shots, focus stacking or when there just isn’t enough light 😀
I’m agree . . . I hardly use my tripod because I find it limits my flexibility in getting the best angle for my shot. I also find that leaning against a stationary object, if available, allows me to be more relaxed when I’m shooting.
An old school tip that I used in my days as an archaoelogical site photographer on urban 'rescue archaeology' excavations (1980s and 1990s) where the photographic record was often the primary source for archaelologists creating the academic reports after the event when the archaology had destroyed the physical elements. It was often impossible or impractical to set up a tripod, and small apertures were required to record the necessary levels of detail, using film cameras and slow speed films (typically ISO 125 mono or ISO100 transparency), so I would employ all the methods suggested by Mark, but additionally always carried a small bean bag that could be used to support the camera - the bag would readlly mould onto most surfaces and provide a stable support for the camera. In the absence of a bean bag, a rolled up jacket or somesuch can be used as a temporary support.
I also learned to master the art of balancing on camera flashguns with the existing daylight for objects and scenes within the range of the flash discharges. This can be a great help with low-light/high-contrast scenarios, translating to today's workflows this can be a very helpful technique to add a flexible image file that's easier to manipulate in image editors. Apology that this is longer than intended.
Topaz would argue with you re can't sharpen out blurred photos. But I'm with you. Whether Sharpen AI or Photo AI, I don't like the way either sharpens. I can't say I have ever seen a sharpened image that looks as good as an out of camera sharp one. Noise reduction is great though.
Спасибо! Годные советы!
This video could not have come at a better time for me. I'm about to shoot in some seriously harsh changing and low light conditions and I'm not allowed to bring a tripod. I really want to nail this. So despite my hatred of camera straps, I'm going to bring it and hope it'll be enough to nail the shots. So thanks for this!
As some have likely written, trees, walls and rocks really have helped me in low light emergencies. Hadn't thought of cradling my camera. I recently shot at ISO 5000 with my Canon R5. That setting with post noise reduction software is changing the game for me. Good session. Question answe: my old Manfrotto 055MF4 is a well designed companion and I have it for many of my outdoor sessions. Half with, half hand-held. Thanks
Hi Mark I use my left arm with my left hand on my right shoulder, I have some good panos created this way. Thanks 😊
You were standing next to a tripod that looked like a tree. I’ve used a tree as a brace a few times. I’ve also placed my camera on the ground to minimize camera shake.
I think maybe a slightly better variation for #2 is to use a cable that you screw into the bottom of the camera tripod socket and a loop on the other end to put your foot through. The issue with extending your arms is that you are not necessarily stabilizing your camera with your arms. With the string/loop idea, you can keep tension on the camera, but keep your arms close to your body for more support. Of course this requires you to carry around a small piece of rope with a 1/4-20" bolt on the end of it but it's something that you can easily fit in your pocket. Some people call it a "string" pod because it's basically like a mono-pod but made out of a string and uses tension to create stability.
Another tip I was given a long time ago as to NOT hold your breath when you to to take a shot, which some people do t hinking that it will help them be more stable. Personally this may or may not be true for everyone, but it has helped me, and what I do is breath in, then exhale and then take the shot because I don't have to concentrate on holding my breath or trying to breath slowly or whatever while I'm shooting. Just take a (deep) breath, exhale, and fire.
Variation for #5 is to use the shoulder (which Joe McNally uses) but you have to be a bit flexible to do this, to be able to twist like that and rest the camera body on your shoulder. I believe he cups the lens with his left hand (bringing it up and around the camera from the right side of the lens to support the lens portion, since the body is already resting on his shoulder), and then holds body against his shoulder wit ha bit of pressure, and controls the camera with his right hand.
Thanks for the tips! What is that red camera strap that you have?
Hi Mark, This is from a relatively new photographer and I'm not sure this even applies to this video. What are your thoughts on putting the camera in manual then estimating the aperture and speed settings then selecting auto ISO?
Thanks
Amazing and Awesome tips , tnq Buddy, wishes from India 🇮🇳
Thanks so much!
I always use a tripod when I am taking macro photos or using ND filters for long pose or focus stacking but am always handheld for wildlife photos. Tripods today are really compact and light compared to a few years ago so are not so much of a problem to take with you. Even so, I am going to try the great tips from the video at the next outing.
Great tips. Perfect timing as I'm going to be shooting sunrise in Muir Woods Friday. Visitors not allowed to leave the busy paths so a tripod is almost unusable.
Thanks Ken!
Hi Mark, Thanks for sharing, all good tips. I guess you travelled with James, Mads Peter and Nigel ? I usually shoot handheld during daylight unless I need longer exposure for a waterfall or so. When you're in a landscape or city, you can also use an object to put the camera onto. Also poles or trees can help by firmly hold the camera against while taking the photo with a longer exposure than would be possible handheld
I also use anything stable around me to rest my camera on, fence posts, tree stumps/branches, etc.
i always try to shoot with at least 1/100 ss (50mm 1.8) and auto iso in manual mode. this way i can concentrate on getting the perfect shot without thinking too much about shooting at the lowest iso possible. also i try to keep the photo a little under exposed instead of overexposed because i found that recovering a lil more details in the shadows is easier that in overexposed highlights... this has never failed me.
One thing I've had some success with is kneeling down and rest one of my elbows on my knee. Also you can put your elbows on the railings of the boat (if it's not rocking too much) or if on land find something to lean your shoulder or the camera against.
Hey Mark, thanks for this. I’m new to using a DSLR and tips like this are getting me going. Question regarding your “one over” rule of thumb. I assume you’re talking about the effective focal length of the lens? I’m using a Canon EOS Rebel with a crop sensor, so my 50mm prime lens gives me more like an 80mm focal length. Would you recommend 1/80 or 1/160 shutter speed in this case?
Elementary on a boat: Use your viewfinder. And as you can do nothing about the moving platform, you can least make sure you don't overcompensate the movement. So lean onto a wall or other fixed structure. And of course you need the right shutter speed to freeze the movement! If your pictures are noisy at ISO 3200, you might want to consider getting a newer camera...
I sometimes use my 2 second timer along with your other suggestions. Pushing the shutter button causes some motion. Pushing it and waiting 2 seconds removes some if that motion.
Could you tell what the red camera strap you are using in this video. I’m looking for a new strong wide one and this one looks great.
I mostly shoot landscape and likely do 75% of my shots in late golden hour well into blue hour. I almost never use a tripod for this only really using it for astro or for long exposures of water. Looking back at shutter speed getting in the range of 1/10 of a second is not a big issue. I also dont have much issue shooting HDR stacks usually with a 1EV3 setting. Between 3 shots its a much longer effective shutter speed though I know lightroom corrects for some of that in the HDR merge but only between images not for individual images in the stack. If I set zoom in LR to 200 % or so I start to see lack of sharpness but not before that. I think your techniques mentioned are good, I always use the view finder so have the face point of contact and had not realized it before your video but nearly always shoot with my arms tucked as well. If its getting way too dark I also will kind of loop my strap around my elbow in a way that it really holds the camera tight to my body and face sometimes. If it works for the shot angle and is getting quite dark I also sometimes sit and lock my ankles together and rest the lens on my knee is a similar technique to how you would stabilize a rifle for long range shooting from a seated position. I never really understood why I see so many landscape photogrophers shoot from a tripod in lighting conditions where they have very fast shutter speeds. I am planning to make a point of using a tripod a little more this fall, though I tend to move around and shoot a similar shot with so many variations on composition that I would end up trying far fewer shots if using a tripod so I feel like it would be a real limitation outside of scenarios where you really want a long exposure to smooth out clouds or water. Upgrading to a better tripod might make me want to use it more as well, my Vanguard is ok but not good, considering a RRS TFC-24L, if nothing else it will help my nightscape shots. Anyway, as always great video!
Thanks Mark for very informative and practical tips. If I am using 100-400 mm lens and photographing hand held at 100 mm , shall I set 1/100 shutter speed or 1/400 shutter speed.
One more suggestion, set ISO to auto, then you only need focus on aperture and speed settings.
Good info. The vast majority of my shots are handheld.
Two other methods to get sharp images and video.
1. Lean against a solid object
2. Sit down and place your elbows on your knees while using the face brace. This is the absolute most stable method I use. Works especially well for video.
Yes, lean against a tree...like the one right next to Mark during the whole video. I was waiting for that suggestion but it never came!
Though loath to cite advantages to being wheelchair bound, I find bracing my elbows on the chair armrests confers a tripod-like stability, which is hard to beat. It also works extremely well for video.
But what are the Camera Settings to start with the for the scenario that you have just described? That would give a benchmark from where the camera settings can be changed? thanks
Rifle shooters have been looking for techniques to keep their gun steady for hundreds of years. Much of what we do, also works for photographers. You are standing next to a tree. Trees are wonderful things to assist you to keep steady.
Handheld with a few exceptions - extreme low light, moving water, bracketing, or panoramas. I find moving around and finding better angles/composition is way more important to getting good - and sometimes great - shots than trying to find the perfect spot to set up a tripod and taking a series of photos from the same position that only vary based on zoom in/out, waiting a few minutes for the light to change, etc. This is how I started shooting a long time ago with a 35mm SLR when I did not even own a tripod.
I use a Canon R7, mostly for birding. The relatively light weight of the camera body makes it susceptible to shutter shock, and images are considerable sharper when using the electronic shutter or the first-curtain electronic shutter (which avoids rolling shutter). Though I was initially surprised, the difference is dramatic even with fast shutter speeds.
Agreed I use r7 and am very happy with it
@@gumpoyler I love my R7, especially for birding, which is my principle application. But shutter shock with the mechanical shutter is significant; in fact, I'm surprised that it doesn't get cited more often and curious as to your impression? Fortunately, it's easy to avoid, with the first-curtain electronic shutter, which still allows for 15 fps. Despite significant rolling shutter, I still use the electronic shutter about 80% of the time, switching to first-curtain mainly for birds in flight.
Good tips! I generally rely on my OM-1 IBIS, which gives pretty good results even for exposures of more than 1 second.
However, there might be a few other options.
How useful would a gimbal mount be for stills? Or a gyro-stabiliser (e.g. Kenyon Gyro Stabilizer KS-4×4)?
Man!
IBIS is giving you 1" handheld?
@@prithvim7 yes!
I use a tripod but that is also because im have to record video for my youtube videos. If i want to show what im doing i just need it. And i think it works better to get the best compositions. Look at those details on the edges is much easyer on a tripod. But shooting without it is much more fun thats for sure. In just wondering mark why do you use a QR code on the side of your video. I recently read that more then 70 percent of youtube video are watched on mobile devices so most people wont be able to scan the code. Just a little tip do with it whatever younwant 😊 ow and just one thing to add if you dont want a tripod to carry around considder a monopod. I dont use it myself but i kbow some friend find it realy good to work with and easy to carry around. Great video btw as always! Grt guido
What about sitting or prone rather than standing, Mark?
just get used to shooting always as in step 4. Step 5 I can't do due to a bad left shoulder/titanium implant. An extra tip that works for me hold your breath and shoot at least 3 shots in quick succession, at least one of them will come up sharper than the other two as vibrations from multiple sources have the tendency to cancel each other.
What about getting rid of the heavy backpack to help your stabilisation
Surely the tip about how to hold a camera (no4?) Is lesson no1 for any photographer? I was taught that 50yrs ago, and it's never left me.
Tripods are for video (sometimes) and long exposures. Holding the camera out with strap tension is the wrong approach (I think), and certainly should be the first suggestion. If you are handholding, you should always be using the EVF, elbows in against your body with an additional anchor on your face eye ... the best/first option. I NEVER use the back LCD outdoors (except for video, sometimes). It is not very good in most lighting conditions. Likewise, you can't tell if a shot is sharp using the back LCD to review shots. The EVF is usually higher res AND you can actually see it.
Not everyone has full frame for the shoot at 1 over focal length, you need to add your crop factor or just Double SS over fl for crop sensor
If your shutter speed is about 1/focal length (time in seconds, length in mm in the ramge approx. 35-135 mm), your images should be sharp even without any stabilisation.
For shorter lengths, use double time, for 200-400mm, use half the time. I've been taking handheld photos of flying birds without stabilisation and with manual focus and manual aperture using 30+ years old lenses for quite some time.
Also, when using vintage lenses with IBIS, you need to set the focal length properly. If you set it too high, it will make opposite effect. And if you use IBIS with vintage zoom lenses, set it to lowest focal length.
I would add using electronic shutter instead of mechanical.