Hubby and I watched your video for help with our Whirlpool wall oven. Yours was the only one I could find to help with a locked door, screwed into the wall. Unfortunately, your trick to open the door did not work for us. I’ll try sending Whirlpool tech a message. A huge thank you for your careful explanations. Very helpful!
A few others remark about that in the thread here. Presumably more modern ovens have more complex locking mechanisms. Some describe coming at it from the top to get at the solenoid that controls the door.
@@spelunkerd That cliff hanger trick worked fine on my old Whirlpool wall oven (model # GMC305PDB6). That saved me a few headaches as the problem was a bad latch. Definitely, go at it from the top with a stiff strong push, and it will open. Thanks...
Mike-Jeezy Nice job on trouble shooting and what to look for. Got my door open with your help. Now the fun begins. One of the best DIY's I've seen in awhile...... Thanks
Thanks very much for the video - well done. A few minutes in I decided I was well out of my depth, but I'm really glad that I'm not calling a repairman to throw a breaker back and forth!
Re md007: That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Very useful video spelunkerd. One thing I CANNOT figure out is how to get the doors off! Mine have no latch levers on the hinge to swing over or pins to push in like some have. I tried opening 6" and lifting up and out and nothing. Also, tried removing two screws on inside bottom of door, then lift up and out. Nothing. Very frustrating.
+Mike Comport There are a few remarks from others with the same problem in this thread, and I recall one of them got the door off by removing the cover on the panel above. He said that his door was controlled by a solenoid, presumably a newer model oven. If you scroll down the discussion thread you should find his comment, and he may be able to offer more details if you can find him. Also have a look at the pdf document that I link to in the video description, which might have more detail. For the benefit of others, please stop back here and leave notes that may help others. good luck!
From thermal fuse table at the top right of page 5 of the tech sheet, I was confused which part# to order. spelunkerd's fuse was 4452223 but mine didn't have pink/white striping, instead it had a blue dot. Then I noticed 9759242 impressed on the underside, a Whirlpool part# for a blue dot thermal fuse, confirmed for my model#. Also table shows reclose temp = -31F max so I put bad fuse in ultra low temp freezer, didn't fix it, even at -80C for an hour.
I've come to the conclusion that you can't wait for the next thing to break down be it an appliance or a vehicle or whatever. You enjoy fixing such failures (as do I). The fact that your presentation mimics a college professor just adds to my enjoyment of the videos. I wish you enough breakdowns in the future to keep us both entertained!
Had the same problem with my whirlpool which is notorious for the upper rear thermal fuse blowing, especially when you use the self cleaning feature. The bottom oven not so much. also, two years after I purchased, there was an electronic component on the circuit board went bad. Spotted it by the burn mark. Repair guy wanted $150 just to look at it and $250 to replace the board. found the part online $2.50. That was 21 years ago. It still works great now.👨🔧
Agreed. This has the right amount of detail, logical presentation, and avoids loud talk and loud music. Other repair videos on UA-cam could learn from this.
Truly one of the best self help videos I have seen. The time you took to highlight and magnify potentially difficult areas was so helpful. Thanks for what you did.
9 years later just saw this video, my upper oven does not heat and both lights went out, replaced thermal fuse did not work, going to try the control thermal fuse, thanks
In response to the question from R Young, when a thermal fuse fails it usually blows completely and in that case resistance is so high it's unrecordable, not 0.3 ohms. I would be looking elsewhere. However remember that to properly test any fuse it needs to be removed from the circuit, to prevent false negatives when current can find an alternate path to ground.
+spelunkerd - Thank you! -Yes the control thermal fuse was isolated and 0.3 was what appeared on the meter. I retested it in put the meter on resistance with tone and got 000
A compatible thermal fuse can be purchased for as little as a dollar, but it must be crimp-connected. If you solder it, it will be heated above its cutout temperature, then it will be useless. I found that although KitchenAid didn't originally sell the part (nor does it appear on diagrams or in the tech sheet found inside the oven), they are now owned by Whirlpool, which offers thermal fuse part #4456654 already crimped and ready to install. Prices vary in the $10 to $20 range.
In response to the question by Serafin Silva, I think the design is poor, and specifically the unit is not made to be enclosed in cabinetry that significantly limits air flow. It may have performed well on the factory floor during product testing, but when you enclose them in cabinets they overheat.
You might be right about that. When I had it apart I identified a channel that connects that front vent to a large squirrel cage fan at the top back of the oven. My impression at the time was that it was designed to draw cool air in from the front of the oven to the hot back, cooling the backside and top of the oven. When I did it I held a tissue against it and flow seemed to be to the back, but I suppose flow could be the opposite way. Evidently it's not strong enough. Thanks for your comment!
Hello ladies and gents, Before you buy a new control board please, try the following first. Sometimes the Control board may go into a shutdown safety mode, so "Press and Hold the Start button for five seconds" I blew the control board while Speed cooking rice and it boiled over and the control board got wet. My husband quickly killed the power and opened it up and dried it out! My KAid range top worked, but the oven didn't work for four months and a few days ago out of the blue, I decided to pressed the Start button but apparently I didn't hold it long enough. The next day I heard a BEEP! I pressed Start again... Again not long enough... It Beeped again with- Connection Lost. I went to press Start again and I noticed the little Pad Lock noted to " Unlock... Press and Hold for five seconds" and what do you know? The control board works! My oven works too. Just in time for the Holidays! Good luck! I hope it works for you as it did for me ☺️
Had this same issue - had to flatten the clothes hanger to get to the latch but it did work. This is on a 2014 model KEBS109BSS. Just need the part to arrive so we can fix it. By the way, there's a class action lawsuit addressing this fuse issue.
Poor design. If you punched out a vent hole high up in that air cavity behind the unit would there be anywhere to duct the heat to? Thinking of a duct in the overhead cabinet or through the wall.
Terrific video presentation! It was the 2nd thermal fuse that was the my problem and you diagnosed it beautifully to be able to help me find my faulty component and save a visit by the appliance tech.
VERY VERY nice video, thanks...Our Whirlpool oven would not unlock after self clean (lock shoot). Your detailed video showed to go in thru the top and how to get the oven out of the casing. Now all I need are the parts. :-)
Thank You for posting this! I found the 2 fuses on the back of the unit pretty easily and they were good. I saw the tech sheet showing a 3rd fuse but I couldn’t find it because it wasn’t sure what it looked like. You nailed it. Mine was bad too after self clean. Saved me a ton of time and probably several hundred. Jacks in calling a repairman.
Thanks for the tip to replace the door gasket. Regarding the front vent, I believe the outlet is not a snorkel but a outflow vent. If you look inside the oven on the roof below the vent you'll see a round perforated screen that I'm sure vents through that front opening. What function this is for, I don't know but I wish I could block it so cooking smells don't vent into the kitchen. If you have any insight into this I would love to hear it. Thanks again for this very useful video!
Thank you for the excellent repair video. My problem is slightly different , the failure occurrence took place after the Self Cleaning Cycle however, the door did not lock. I tested the broiler element and oven element both had continuity. The thermostat failed the continuity test and I replaced it . No change problem still exists. Moving on to the two Thermal Fuses. Again, Thank you for your excellent video, it seems too have helped many in the same situation.
I recently posted another video repair involving this same oven that some may find interesting. One of the fans became noisy, prompting a diagnosis and motor teardown shown in the video. Along the way I discuss the design of shaded pole motors, the most common AC motor design in modern homes. ua-cam.com/video/J1wKmTko0qw/v-deo.html
I had that problem, the door is stuck and the lights don’t turn on, you can hear sound coming out from the panel but don’t turn on and I had this F2-E1 thing, my model KERC607HBL1 KitchenAid oven, what should I do?
Huuuge shout-out, high-five, and possibly a bear hug one of these days for making this video. A video, I might add, that is still saving people time and misery 11 years after the fact. Well done. Can't thank you enough.
Sometimes slamming that thermal switch down will reset it. The ones with buttons are the same, but this type is made so you have to buy one. Sometimes you find a small hole under the label and a pin can reset it. Planned obsolescence.
Most built in ovens install instructions call for a hole in the floor of the oven or runners and an open bottom to vent out the hot air. I fixed a few with a 10x10 hole and a path for the air out from there. Also never use self cleaning mode.
Thanks for posting the video my oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode. I found the fuse that's beside the circuit board to be bad straight away so I replaced it and the power came back on but it wouldn't heat up at all. After watching ur video I now know of the second fuse lower down the back of the oven that tells the oven when to heat up. Thanks very much tomorrow should be a smooth easy repair Thanks to this video.
I accidentally connected my neutral wire for my KitchenAid oven to the red wire and it didn't blow the breaker but it made a whole bunch of clicks and then a pop and of course my oven door locked I lost the display just like you did however I don't have one of those fuses in my unit which really sucks so I'm not sure if I blew my Transformer or if I destroyed my display board.
Thank you for a very informative video - I got as far as the second fuse but I'm not sure how to disconnect the black end. Do I just pull it out of the white connector? thanks for any help you can give me.
Hello, Thanks for the thorough video. Other videos had drawn my attention to the thermal fuse on the rear of the oven, but yours also addressed the fuse near the control panel. Replacing both was just what I needed and now my oven appears to be working.
just about to pull out my "Whirlpool" single wall oven. It did the same thing exactly buy shutting down during the cleaning cycle and locking the door. thanks for all the advice, will have to try and unlatch the door first..
Smashing repair :-) I have seen some fan assisted ovans get a sticky fan and shut down because its going too slow, but yours was having a heart attack. They could have done with another vent above the unit to blow/suck the heat out of the back area, designers, shoot them lol :-)
spelunkerd, thanks for this video. I recently purchased the KEBC208KSS02 used. it didnt come with the side trim rails (left or right) that i see you removing at 3:36 into your video. These rails seem to no longer be available (parts# 4452081 & 4452082). Can you tell me if these rails are one continuous piece and is the left side unique and not interchangeable with right? Anyone want to sell me theirs? Thanks. Tom
They look generic, I'd find something at the hardware store. Note that they may get hot, avoid plastic or anything else that could burn. A sheet metal fabricator could make these easily, they are the same companies that make roof drains, I would look for thin stainless sheet metal.
Oh yes, we are out here :-) Ahh but the ones that said "you cant fix it" havnt got your intellegence and logical diagnostic ability. Any how, you had to fix it, dinnertime was calling your stomach lol :-)
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
The first fuse is well described. The second one, I'm not sure if I have that detail any more. The second fuse had some microprinting on the side, visible with a magnifying glass after I cut the plastic cover off. When I googled that serial number I came out with a good description of the fuse. I just took it to a well equipped professional electronics shop and they gave me a replacement. You should replace the fuse that is specific for your equipment, after you verify that it is bad. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
really liked the video. I am having similar problems with my kitchenaid double oven, except i have replaced both fuses as you did and still have nothing, sadly i am thinking that my control board may have been fried in the self clean as well. Where did you find your second fuse that is connected to BK P-19? I can't find it anywhere. Kitchenaid doesn't even list it as a part??
It's been a while since I did this repair, but the second fuse that I replaced was on your upper right if you are facing the oven, just plugged into a connector adjacent to and behind the control panel. It doesn't really look like a fuse, it had a short piece of clear plastic tubing that was covering and protecting it. I actually tested it for resistance before I cut the tubing and pulled it apart since I wasn't sure it was a fuse. Resistance was infinite so I became more confident that there was my problem. Good luck!
That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That is certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Hi Dave, yes, you can get a thermal fuse for a lot less money, and I understand your thinking of the safety factor that in substituting another device may not be compatible or safe. On your spec for the fuse, it opens at 266°F +-10°F. Other thermal fuses could have been used which are cheaper and would be safe. Check out ntein dot com. Also thermal fuses for efficiency should operate at 30°C less than the opening temp or 180°F in your case. You'll need to vent some of that heat off.
You are very clear on how to service your oven, we have a single oven identical as your .But we never received schematic diagram of the unit, when we bought the house , to trouble shoot the problem .I have code F1E2 on the clock display .Plus the number key 5 and 9 do not register plus bake key. I suspect the printed flex cable coming from the keypad may not have bad connection . Now to trace the circuit I have to delaminate the key pad with the other touch keys Now if I can get a schematic of the card and keypad connection, it would help me greatly . Been trying from kitchen aid and no avail. call service repair and they charge me just to look at it . Karl
Most older appliances had the schematic hidden inside, somewhere. It may be unavailable in new appliances, and some manufacturers are reluctant to offer schematics to non certified repair centers or amateurs. Mine was at the top, found after removing the metal cabinet skin. Otherwise I'd do as you're doing. The US has right to repair legislation that might help you, but elsewhere, not so much.
One of the best and thorough how-to-videos I've seen. Great explanation, demonstration and camera work; and addresses a possible root of the problem for prevention of future problems. Thank you, Bob Ross!
I have a similar oven, model number kebc247vss02. My problem no display reading. I hear tones when some of the buttons are pushed so I know there’s power but the display does not light up I can’t get it to come on and cook. Any suggestions?
That sounds like a board problem, but I can't say for sure. New models may have trouble codes that can help to decipher the issue, but the problem is to find a dealer repair manual that goes into appropriate detail. For some reason some companies tend to guard that information from amateur eyes, which is annoying. If you want to solve this yourself, you may have to commit hours of research, starting with the company website. I'd start there, and maybe take it apart enough to find the wiring diagram and fuses, and have a general look at the electronics for evidence. Early in your effort I'd open the circuit breaker to the oven to do a 'hard boot' of the electronics to see if that helps.
I took the old fuse into a professional electronics supply shop and they replaced it with a nearly identical thermal cutout fuse. If you look at your fuse using a magnifying glass, you will find microscopic printing that describes the manfuacturer, the cutout temp and other details. The fuse was less than $10.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
Very helpful. Your instructions on removing the control panel thermal fuse was a bit off. I tried and tried to insert something, “behind and parallel” to the line to remove it, with no luck. After further inspection, I noticed the shiny connector on the side of the plug, and I pressed in on it gently while applying slight pressure to remove it and it came out easily. You mentioned where you purchased this part generally, can you provide a specific dealer. I have not found a source.
I just plugged in the part number with the word "kitchen aid" in the google search bar and a series of options came up. All the options I found were overpriced, in my opinion, so I'll be searching again if I have to do it in the future. As these ovens age I expect the number of options with available parts to sag. Thanks for outlining your experience with the lock. Others mentioned in this thread that their door lock was designed a little differently, which will help those who stop by in the future.
It depends on how comfortable you are with a multimeter and how much time and effort you are willing to spend. If it were me I would find the wiring diagram and start hunting down the problem. Yes, one of the fuses is quite possible, since the plumber may have shorted wires and hopefully a fuse protected devices downstream. Note that if he cut across power supply wires (220V), any splicing needs to pass NEC electrical code, inside an approved junction box.
A CORDIAL GREETING, EXCELLENT VIDEO. I AM A TECHNICIAN IN ELECTRONICS AND A CUSTOMER ASKED ME TO REVIEW HIS DOUBLE MODEL KEMS308SS00 OVEN (OR KEMS378S) AND I HAVE NOT KNOWED THAT THE TRANSFORMER OF DISPLAY CONTROL IS MISSING. CAN YOU INDICATE WHERE CAN I BUY IT ONLINE?
Yeah. I was thinking about hooking my shop vac to the hole, but then I realized that there is a cover plate that limits flow where I really want cooling to happen. That's why I instead decided to focus on what I am calling a snorkel, that directs cool air exactly where I want it to go. Thanks for your remark.
That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
What bothers me the most is the frequent lack of effort to design a lasting repair after it becomes known as a common point of failure. I get the idea that engineers don't necessarily anticipate problems to come, but for common points of failure you would think they would invest effort to try and preserve reputation. On the other hand, there may not be an easy and safe fix for this problem. Thanks for your feedback!
One other thing Dave and I'm sure you and your viewers know this. When you're checking resistance in a circuit it's not necessary to remove both wires from a component. Removing just one wire takes the component out of the circuit electrically. Just a little time saver.
My theory why the oven blows 2 fuses: agree hardened oven door gasket allowed too much heat to rise to control panel, blew control panel microfuse. That cut all power while elements were red hot. Without interior ventilation, oven overheated without power, the heat melted down thermal fuse at rear of cabinet even though no current was flowing through it.
I"m sorry, if it didn't open the way I opened mine, it must have a different design. But it can't be too far off -- there are only so many ways this can be designed. Perhaps it won't work because you are pulling on the door too hard, restricting motion of the gate. You ca either keep trying, or ask for professional help. There's nothing wrong with calling a pro -- when you factor in the amount of time to research this, and the risk, asking for professional help seems like a wise choice.
Great Video helped me out! I watched all the other videos and those refer to the other models. You should write KEBC207KSS as the model for this oven so it's easier to search. Thank you
Microwaves have a large fuse that sometimes blows. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the fuse, it doesn't visibly blow, it just shows infinite resistance. Also, sometimes the latch on the door doesn't close all the way, or the door switch fails and the machine won't start because it thinks the door is open. Unplug it, then open it up and have a look, find and test the fuse. As I recall there are large capacitors in there, hands off those because they can hold a charge and shock you.
OK... After using our Whirlpool GBD277PD-Q1, we blew one of the thermal fuses. We were baking potatoes. Watching this video, I was able to fix it. Thanks. Fast forward two weeks. We used the cleaning feature on the oven and it quit working again. Same symptoms, but this time the oven was locked. I got online and purchased another new thermal fuse. When I got it in the mail, I took the oven apart and replaced it again. This time that wasn't the problem. This time it was the long enclosed fuse on top. After replacing this one, the oven worked again. This time before I reinstalled the oven, I checked the fans to make sure they are working. All three fans seem to work fine (the upper, lower and convection) What, in your opinion, can be causing these to blow?
Thanks, David. Do you mean that for your oven, the control panel fuse, the one I found no part number for, was as you state above? That's helpful info. How much did it cost? Mine was just a few dollars from an electronics store, but Sears was not the middleman. I suspect that generic fuses would be considerably less. You've added a couple of important points here. Thanks for contributing to the thread.
I am so delighted to have stumbled across this video with the exact symptoms as mine. Nobody posted how to get the door open without power to the panel. I can't imagine that the inventor of the wire hanger knew how many other uses it would be used for, perhaps worthy of it's own top 50 video. Should I presume that because the panel has no display, that it's control fuse(s) have blown? In addition to the shutdown thermal fuse of course. The 321K+ views speak for itself about this issue and the self-cleaning function. Mine is only a couple of years old, so I guess no update to the design. Big like and subscribed!
The only experience I have with this oven is the repair shown. If it were me I would first look for diagnostic codes. Failing that, I would check to see if the oven thermostat is sending an accurate message back to the microprocessor. Maybe it's somehow reading too high, shutting the unit down too soon. With a double oven you might be able to swap sensors bottom to top and see if the problem moves down to the lower unit. Good luck!
Those were my thoughts, too. The two vents, one for each oven, seem to both funnel air to the back two squirrel cage motors. You can only do self-cleaning on one oven at a time, so I'll plan to adjust the fan position to the most appropriate vent depending on which oven is doing the self clean. I'm not sure if air going to the lower will cross over to the upper -- from what I saw the vents just go their respective fans with no crossover. Thank you for your thoughtful remarks.
very good video. I am replacing a kenmore pro double oven that cnat decide if it wants to work or not. I have a new double oven ready to go in. The self clean cycle also seems to a problem for me in the old oven as it is so terrible hot. I think it messes with the electronic board. I will not start doing the messiest roasting in the bottom oven, away from the electronic board. In the old oven I could open the upper oven as the lower oven self cleaned and that seemed to do the trick. The upper oven could never go over 30 min with out an error on self clean. again, great video!
If there is some way you could increase air flow around the back of the oven, many of these problems would disappear. Physical space can't normally be changed but perhaps a vent or fan in the back might help. You could use some kind of bathroom fan....
Very nice video. A friend of mine has the Kitchenaid Superba KEMC308kss01 combo micro/oven wall unit. She had a power failure and since power was restored the display is completely blank and no buttons function.I have checked the main inline fuse and it's good. There is power going to it. I found a small fuse that is soldered to the back side of control panel that is bad. Is this the control panel fuse? I didn't see an inline fuse like you show in the video.She told me she didn't self clean the oven. Just that there was a power failure and then power restored. Any help would be much appreciated.
Mark, my whirlpool double oven has power and makes all the beeping noises but the control panel is not lighting up and when I turn the oven on it stays on for 2 minutes and then turns off. Any ideals of whats wrong? Great video by the way.
Yes, when I searched the problem of overheating after self cleaning whirlpool or kitchenaid ovens, I found a lot of angry posts about recurrent failure after self cleaning. Most said you can't fix it yourself, and so I hope this video is a useful addition for those with this problem. Thanks for watching, it's nice to know somebody is out there, ha ha.
Great video. Especially showing how the other end of thermal control wire is removed. Could you name the source to get the replacement thermal control fuse? I have not been able to locate a vendor who carries it.
I believe the first fuse is still widely available. I took the second fuse in the video to a local electronics repair shop and they were able to read the tiny numbers written on the fuse and replace it for me.
We can't fix Whirlpool's pathetic designs - of the electronics, the lack of insulation, or the stupid wiring that kills the blower along with the heat and therefore heat-soaks the electronics - but I wonder if MicroTemp makes a similarly sized & rated switch with an AUTO-resetting bimetal button... At least that would save the wasted time, labor & expense of replacing that stupid thermal cutout.
Hubby and I watched your video for help with our Whirlpool wall oven. Yours was the only one I could find to help with a locked door, screwed into the wall. Unfortunately, your trick to open the door did not work for us. I’ll try sending Whirlpool tech a message. A huge thank you for your careful explanations. Very helpful!
A few others remark about that in the thread here. Presumably more modern ovens have more complex locking mechanisms. Some describe coming at it from the top to get at the solenoid that controls the door.
@@spelunkerd That cliff hanger trick worked fine on my old Whirlpool wall oven (model # GMC305PDB6). That saved me a few headaches as the problem was a bad latch. Definitely, go at it from the top with a stiff strong push, and it will open. Thanks...
Mike-Jeezy
Nice job on trouble shooting and what to look for. Got my door open with your help.
Now the fun begins. One of the best DIY's I've seen in awhile...... Thanks
Thanks, man. Good luck!
Thanks very much for the video - well done. A few minutes in I decided I was well out of my depth, but I'm really glad that I'm not calling a repairman to throw a breaker back and forth!
Thanks. I'm seeing the same symptoms but on a different model. This is incredibly helpful for me as a starting place.
I'm glad it helped. Make sure you read through the comments and the video description for further details that might help you.
Re md007: That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Very useful video spelunkerd. One thing I CANNOT figure out is how to get the doors off! Mine have no latch levers on the hinge to swing over or pins to push in like some have. I tried opening 6" and lifting up and out and nothing. Also, tried removing two screws on inside bottom of door, then lift up and out. Nothing. Very frustrating.
+Mike Comport There are a few remarks from others with the same problem in this thread, and I recall one of them got the door off by removing the cover on the panel above. He said that his door was controlled by a solenoid, presumably a newer model oven. If you scroll down the discussion thread you should find his comment, and he may be able to offer more details if you can find him. Also have a look at the pdf document that I link to in the video description, which might have more detail. For the benefit of others, please stop back here and leave notes that may help others. good luck!
From thermal fuse table at the top right of page 5 of the tech sheet, I was confused which part# to order. spelunkerd's fuse was 4452223 but mine didn't have pink/white striping, instead it had a blue dot. Then I noticed 9759242 impressed on the underside, a Whirlpool part# for a blue dot thermal fuse, confirmed for my model#. Also table shows reclose temp = -31F max so I put bad fuse in ultra low temp freezer, didn't fix it, even at -80C for an hour.
I've come to the conclusion that you can't wait for the next thing to break down be it an appliance or a vehicle or whatever. You enjoy fixing such failures (as do I). The fact that your presentation mimics a college professor just adds to my enjoyment of the videos. I wish you enough breakdowns in the future to keep us both entertained!
Had the same problem with my whirlpool which is notorious for the upper rear thermal fuse blowing, especially when you use the self cleaning feature. The bottom oven not so much. also, two years after I purchased, there was an electronic component on the circuit board went bad. Spotted it by the burn mark. Repair guy wanted $150 just to look at it and $250 to replace the board. found the part online $2.50. That was 21 years ago. It still works great now.👨🔧
Without a doubt, the absolute best youtube video I've seen. Thanks! I followed step by step, at least up until I ordered the part....
Agreed. This has the right amount of detail, logical presentation, and avoids loud talk and loud music. Other repair videos on UA-cam could learn from this.
Harbor freight, or Princess Auto in Canada. Or, any auto parts store. The end I mostly use is shaped like a small jeweler's flat blade screwdriver.
Truly one of the best self help videos I have seen. The time you took to highlight and magnify potentially difficult areas was so helpful. Thanks for what you did.
Thanks!
9 years later just saw this video, my upper oven does not heat and both lights went out, replaced thermal fuse did not work, going to try the control thermal fuse, thanks
In response to the question from R Young, when a thermal fuse fails it usually blows completely and in that case resistance is so high it's unrecordable, not 0.3 ohms. I would be looking elsewhere. However remember that to properly test any fuse it needs to be removed from the circuit, to prevent false negatives when current can find an alternate path to ground.
+spelunkerd - Thank you! -Yes the control thermal fuse was isolated and 0.3 was what appeared on the meter. I retested it in put the meter on resistance with tone and got 000
oven lights are on and looks like everything ok except door open light is on when door closed. oven will not work.
A compatible thermal fuse can be purchased for as little as a dollar, but it must be crimp-connected. If you solder it, it will be heated above its cutout temperature, then it will be useless. I found that although KitchenAid didn't originally sell the part (nor does it appear on diagrams or in the tech sheet found inside the oven), they are now owned by Whirlpool, which offers thermal fuse part #4456654 already crimped and ready to install. Prices vary in the $10 to $20 range.
Great Video. I think I have same problem. I will check it out.
Good luck!
In response to the question by Serafin Silva, I think the design is poor, and specifically the unit is not made to be enclosed in cabinetry that significantly limits air flow. It may have performed well on the factory floor during product testing, but when you enclose them in cabinets they overheat.
I'm taking everything in order like you showed. I'll let you know an another week.
You might be right about that. When I had it apart I identified a channel that connects that front vent to a large squirrel cage fan at the top back of the oven. My impression at the time was that it was designed to draw cool air in from the front of the oven to the hot back, cooling the backside and top of the oven. When I did it I held a tissue against it and flow seemed to be to the back, but I suppose flow could be the opposite way. Evidently it's not strong enough. Thanks for your comment!
Hello ladies and gents,
Before you buy a new control board please, try the following first. Sometimes the Control board may go into a shutdown safety mode, so "Press and Hold the Start button for five seconds"
I blew the control board while Speed cooking rice and it boiled over and the control board got wet. My husband quickly killed the power and opened it up and dried it out! My KAid range top worked, but the oven didn't work for four months and a few days ago out of the blue, I decided to pressed the Start button but apparently I didn't hold it long enough. The next day I heard a BEEP! I pressed Start again... Again not long enough... It Beeped again with- Connection Lost. I went to press Start again and I noticed the little Pad Lock noted to " Unlock... Press and Hold for five seconds" and what do you know? The control board works! My oven works too. Just in time for the Holidays! Good luck! I hope it works for you as it did for me ☺️
Had this same issue - had to flatten the clothes hanger to get to the latch but it did work. This is on a 2014 model KEBS109BSS. Just need the part to arrive so we can fix it. By the way, there's a class action lawsuit addressing this fuse issue.
We're dealing with this problem for the 2nd time in as many years. What is happening with the lawsuit?
Poor design. If you punched out a vent hole high up in that air cavity behind the unit would there be anywhere to duct the heat to? Thinking of a duct in the overhead cabinet or through the wall.
Thank you very much, Mr. Spelunkerd!! I was able to fix my Kitchenaid Wall Oven (KEBS109BSS01) for $60 (Therm-fx and fuse parts). :-)
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup!
Terrific video presentation! It was the 2nd thermal fuse that was the my problem and you diagnosed it beautifully to be able to help me find my faulty component and save a visit by the appliance tech.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
VERY VERY nice video, thanks...Our Whirlpool oven would not unlock after self clean (lock shoot). Your detailed video showed to go in thru the top and how to get the oven out of the casing. Now all I need are the parts. :-)
Thanks you for this excellent video. It saved me several hundred dollars. All my oven repair cost me was $13 for an eBay purchased fuse!
Thank You for posting this! I found the 2 fuses on the back of the unit pretty easily and they were good. I saw the tech sheet showing a 3rd fuse but I couldn’t find it because it wasn’t sure what it looked like. You nailed it. Mine was bad too after self clean. Saved me a ton of time and probably several hundred. Jacks in calling a repairman.
Thanks for the tip to replace the door gasket. Regarding the front vent, I believe the outlet is not a snorkel but a outflow vent. If you look inside the oven on the roof below the vent you'll see a round perforated screen that I'm sure vents through that front opening. What function this is for, I don't know but I wish I could block it so cooking smells don't vent into the kitchen. If you have any insight into this I would love to hear it. Thanks again for this very useful video!
Thanks Harry.
Thank you for the excellent repair video. My problem is slightly different , the failure occurrence took place after the Self Cleaning Cycle however, the door did not lock. I tested the broiler element and oven element both had continuity. The thermostat failed the continuity test and I replaced it . No change problem still exists. Moving on to the two Thermal Fuses.
Again, Thank you for your excellent video, it seems too have helped many in the same situation.
Very thorough for the trouble-shooting aspects . . . Thanks.
great video. very informative.
I recently posted another video repair involving this same oven that some may find interesting. One of the fans became noisy, prompting a diagnosis and motor teardown shown in the video. Along the way I discuss the design of shaded pole motors, the most common AC motor design in modern homes. ua-cam.com/video/J1wKmTko0qw/v-deo.html
good job on the video. next time show how to open the door. i did it with a flexible spatula.
how do you. change the bottom oven door latch
I had that problem, the door is stuck and the lights don’t turn on, you can hear sound coming out from the panel but don’t turn on and I had this F2-E1 thing, my model KERC607HBL1 KitchenAid oven, what should I do?
Huuuge shout-out, high-five, and possibly a bear hug one of these days for making this video. A video, I might add, that is still saving people time and misery 11 years after the fact. Well done. Can't thank you enough.
Sometimes slamming that thermal switch down will reset it. The ones with buttons are the same, but this type is made so you have to buy one. Sometimes you find a small hole under the label and a pin can reset it. Planned obsolescence.
Most built in ovens install instructions call for a hole in the floor of the oven or runners and an open bottom to vent out the hot air. I fixed a few with a 10x10 hole and a path for the air out from there. Also never use self cleaning mode.
Thanks for posting the video my oven stopped working after using the self cleaning mode. I found the fuse that's beside the circuit board to be bad straight away so I replaced it and the power came back on but it wouldn't heat up at all. After watching ur video I now know of the second fuse lower down the back of the oven that tells the oven when to heat up. Thanks very much tomorrow should be a smooth easy repair Thanks to this video.
I accidentally connected my neutral wire for my KitchenAid oven to the red wire and it didn't blow the breaker but it made a whole bunch of clicks and then a pop and of course my oven door locked I lost the display just like you did however I don't have one of those fuses in my unit which really sucks so I'm not sure if I blew my Transformer or if I destroyed my display board.
At last! A how-to video that was enjoyable to watch! The suspense, the action, and the drama t kept me furiously grabbing my popcorn. More, more!
Very funny. Thanks!
Thank you for a very informative video - I got as far as the second fuse but I'm not sure how to disconnect the black end. Do I just pull it out of the white connector? thanks for any help you can give me.
+Hana Maquet Sorry I looked at the video again and realized that you told how to get it out.
Hello, Thanks for the thorough video. Other videos had drawn my attention to the thermal fuse on the rear of the oven, but yours also addressed the fuse near the control panel. Replacing both was just what I needed and now my oven appears to be working.
I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.
The second fuse! Thanks so much! Your video was great.
Remarks don't get any better than that! Thank you.
Great video. Thanks.
just about to pull out my "Whirlpool" single wall oven. It did the same thing exactly buy shutting down during the cleaning cycle and locking the door. thanks for all the advice, will have to try and unlatch the door first..
Be sure to read through the discussion thread for others' experience, and get the pdf linked to in the video description. Good luck!
OK thanks for that .. will let you know how it goes
Great video im dealing with the same problem can't wait to try this out..hopefully it works thanks alots
Smashing repair :-)
I have seen some fan assisted ovans get a sticky fan and shut down because its going too slow, but yours was having a heart attack.
They could have done with another vent above the unit to blow/suck the heat out of the back area, designers, shoot them lol :-)
spelunkerd, thanks for this video. I recently purchased the KEBC208KSS02 used. it didnt come with the side trim rails (left or right) that i see you removing at 3:36 into your video. These rails seem to no longer be available (parts# 4452081 & 4452082). Can you tell me if these rails are one continuous piece and is the left side unique and not interchangeable with right? Anyone want to sell me theirs? Thanks. Tom
They look generic, I'd find something at the hardware store. Note that they may get hot, avoid plastic or anything else that could burn. A sheet metal fabricator could make these easily, they are the same companies that make roof drains, I would look for thin stainless sheet metal.
Oh yes, we are out here :-)
Ahh but the ones that said "you cant fix it" havnt got your intellegence and logical diagnostic ability.
Any how, you had to fix it, dinnertime was calling your stomach lol :-)
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
The first fuse is well described. The second one, I'm not sure if I have that detail any more. The second fuse had some microprinting on the side, visible with a magnifying glass after I cut the plastic cover off. When I googled that serial number I came out with a good description of the fuse. I just took it to a well equipped professional electronics shop and they gave me a replacement. You should replace the fuse that is specific for your equipment, after you verify that it is bad. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
Excellent video Sir. Thanks
really liked the video. I am having similar problems with my kitchenaid double oven, except i have replaced both fuses as you did and still have nothing, sadly i am thinking that my control board may have been fried in the self clean as well. Where did you find your second fuse that is connected to BK P-19? I can't find it anywhere. Kitchenaid doesn't even list it as a part??
It's been a while since I did this repair, but the second fuse that I replaced was on your upper right if you are facing the oven, just plugged into a connector adjacent to and behind the control panel. It doesn't really look like a fuse, it had a short piece of clear plastic tubing that was covering and protecting it. I actually tested it for resistance before I cut the tubing and pulled it apart since I wasn't sure it was a fuse. Resistance was infinite so I became more confident that there was my problem. Good luck!
That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
That is certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
Hi Dave, yes, you can get a thermal fuse for a lot less money, and I understand your thinking of the safety factor that in substituting another device may not be compatible or safe. On your spec for the fuse, it opens at 266°F +-10°F. Other thermal fuses could have been used which are cheaper and would be safe. Check out ntein dot com. Also thermal fuses for efficiency should operate at 30°C less than the opening temp or 180°F in your case. You'll need to vent some of that heat off.
Very very very good, precise video. Thank You!! Jim in California
You are very clear on how to service your oven, we have a single oven identical as your .But we never received schematic diagram of the unit, when we bought the house , to trouble shoot the problem .I have code F1E2 on the clock display .Plus the number key 5 and 9 do not register plus bake key. I suspect the printed flex cable coming from the keypad may not have bad connection . Now to trace the circuit I have to delaminate the key pad with the other touch keys Now if I can get a schematic of the card and keypad connection, it would help me greatly . Been trying from kitchen aid and no avail. call service repair and they charge me just to look at it . Karl
Most older appliances had the schematic hidden inside, somewhere. It may be unavailable in new appliances, and some manufacturers are reluctant to offer schematics to non certified repair centers or amateurs. Mine was at the top, found after removing the metal cabinet skin. Otherwise I'd do as you're doing. The US has right to repair legislation that might help you, but elsewhere, not so much.
So useful. Very helpful. Thank you🙏🕺🙏🕺🏾
One of the best and thorough how-to-videos I've seen. Great explanation, demonstration and camera work; and addresses a possible root of the problem for prevention of future problems. Thank you, Bob Ross!
I have a similar oven, model number kebc247vss02. My problem no display reading. I hear tones when some of the buttons are pushed so I know there’s power but the display does not light up I can’t get it to come on and cook. Any suggestions?
That sounds like a board problem, but I can't say for sure. New models may have trouble codes that can help to decipher the issue, but the problem is to find a dealer repair manual that goes into appropriate detail. For some reason some companies tend to guard that information from amateur eyes, which is annoying. If you want to solve this yourself, you may have to commit hours of research, starting with the company website. I'd start there, and maybe take it apart enough to find the wiring diagram and fuses, and have a general look at the electronics for evidence. Early in your effort I'd open the circuit breaker to the oven to do a 'hard boot' of the electronics to see if that helps.
I took the old fuse into a professional electronics supply shop and they replaced it with a nearly identical thermal cutout fuse. If you look at your fuse using a magnifying glass, you will find microscopic printing that describes the manfuacturer, the cutout temp and other details. The fuse was less than $10.
Do you have step by step instructions on assembly of the kitchen aid door (or know where I night find them)? Model number YKEBC107KM. Thanks
Other than the two links I posted in the video description, I don't have anything more.
That's certainly a different problem than the one I solved. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are all intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated. Good luck!
Very helpful.
Your instructions on removing the control panel thermal fuse was a bit off. I tried and tried to insert something, “behind and parallel” to the line to remove it, with no luck. After further inspection, I noticed the shiny connector on the side of the plug, and I pressed in on it gently while applying slight pressure to remove it and it came out easily.
You mentioned where you purchased this part generally, can you provide a specific dealer. I have not found a source.
I just plugged in the part number with the word "kitchen aid" in the google search bar and a series of options came up. All the options I found were overpriced, in my opinion, so I'll be searching again if I have to do it in the future. As these ovens age I expect the number of options with available parts to sag. Thanks for outlining your experience with the lock. Others mentioned in this thread that their door lock was designed a little differently, which will help those who stop by in the future.
Excellent video, not too fast not too slow. Great detail! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the feedback!
It depends on how comfortable you are with a multimeter and how much time and effort you are willing to spend. If it were me I would find the wiring diagram and start hunting down the problem. Yes, one of the fuses is quite possible, since the plumber may have shorted wires and hopefully a fuse protected devices downstream. Note that if he cut across power supply wires (220V), any splicing needs to pass NEC electrical code, inside an approved junction box.
A CORDIAL GREETING, EXCELLENT VIDEO. I AM A TECHNICIAN IN ELECTRONICS AND A CUSTOMER ASKED ME TO REVIEW HIS DOUBLE MODEL KEMS308SS00 OVEN (OR KEMS378S) AND I HAVE NOT KNOWED THAT THE TRANSFORMER OF DISPLAY CONTROL IS MISSING. CAN YOU INDICATE WHERE CAN I BUY IT ONLINE?
Sorry. I can’t help.
Yeah. I was thinking about hooking my shop vac to the hole, but then I realized that there is a cover plate that limits flow where I really want cooling to happen. That's why I instead decided to focus on what I am calling a snorkel, that directs cool air exactly where I want it to go. Thanks for your remark.
Great work!
Thanks.
That is certainly a different problem than the one I had. As you know it's very unusual for the oven to be controlled exclusively by the circuit breaker and I would worry a little about the safety, since you can't assume the normal safety mechanisms are intact. Sounds like a switch or maybe the main circuit board. You can look for fried capacitors, but the board is normally replaced as a unit. A noisy fan suggests a mechanical issue there, perhaps unrelated.
What bothers me the most is the frequent lack of effort to design a lasting repair after it becomes known as a common point of failure. I get the idea that engineers don't necessarily anticipate problems to come, but for common points of failure you would think they would invest effort to try and preserve reputation. On the other hand, there may not be an easy and safe fix for this problem.
Thanks for your feedback!
One other thing Dave and I'm sure you and your viewers know this. When you're checking resistance in a circuit it's not necessary to remove both wires from a component. Removing just one wire takes the component out of the circuit electrically. Just a little time saver.
My theory why the oven blows 2 fuses: agree hardened oven door gasket allowed too much heat to rise to control panel, blew control panel microfuse. That cut all power while elements were red hot. Without interior ventilation, oven overheated without power, the heat melted down thermal fuse at rear of cabinet even though no current was flowing through it.
I"m sorry, if it didn't open the way I opened mine, it must have a different design. But it can't be too far off -- there are only so many ways this can be designed. Perhaps it won't work because you are pulling on the door too hard, restricting motion of the gate.
You ca either keep trying, or ask for professional help. There's nothing wrong with calling a pro -- when you factor in the amount of time to research this, and the risk, asking for professional help seems like a wise choice.
Great Video helped me out! I watched all the other videos and those refer to the other models. You should write KEBC207KSS as the model for this oven so it's easier to search. Thank you
Thanks, will do.
Microwaves have a large fuse that sometimes blows. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the fuse, it doesn't visibly blow, it just shows infinite resistance. Also, sometimes the latch on the door doesn't close all the way, or the door switch fails and the machine won't start because it thinks the door is open. Unplug it, then open it up and have a look, find and test the fuse. As I recall there are large capacitors in there, hands off those because they can hold a charge and shock you.
OK... After using our Whirlpool GBD277PD-Q1, we blew one of the thermal fuses. We were baking potatoes. Watching this video, I was able to fix it. Thanks.
Fast forward two weeks. We used the cleaning feature on the oven and it quit working again. Same symptoms, but this time the oven was locked. I got online and purchased another new thermal fuse. When I got it in the mail, I took the oven apart and replaced it again. This time that wasn't the problem. This time it was the long enclosed fuse on top.
After replacing this one, the oven worked again. This time before I reinstalled the oven, I checked the fans to make sure they are working. All three fans seem to work fine (the upper, lower and convection)
What, in your opinion, can be causing these to blow?
Thanks, David. Do you mean that for your oven, the control panel fuse, the one I found no part number for, was as you state above? That's helpful info. How much did it cost? Mine was just a few dollars from an electronics store, but Sears was not the middleman. I suspect that generic fuses would be considerably less.
You've added a couple of important points here. Thanks for contributing to the thread.
I am so delighted to have stumbled across this video with the exact symptoms as mine. Nobody posted how to get the door open without power to the panel. I can't imagine that the inventor of the wire hanger knew how many other uses it would be used for, perhaps worthy of it's own top 50 video. Should I presume that because the panel has no display, that it's control fuse(s) have blown? In addition to the shutdown thermal fuse of course. The 321K+ views speak for itself about this issue and the self-cleaning function. Mine is only a couple of years old, so I guess no update to the design. Big like and subscribed!
The only experience I have with this oven is the repair shown.
If it were me I would first look for diagnostic codes. Failing that, I would check to see if the oven thermostat is sending an accurate message back to the microprocessor. Maybe it's somehow reading too high, shutting the unit down too soon. With a double oven you might be able to swap sensors bottom to top and see if the problem moves down to the lower unit. Good luck!
Those were my thoughts, too. The two vents, one for each oven, seem to both funnel air to the back two squirrel cage motors. You can only do self-cleaning on one oven at a time, so I'll plan to adjust the fan position to the most appropriate vent depending on which oven is doing the self clean. I'm not sure if air going to the lower will cross over to the upper -- from what I saw the vents just go their respective fans with no crossover. Thank you for your thoughtful remarks.
very good video. I am replacing a kenmore pro double oven that cnat decide if it wants to work or not. I have a new double oven ready to go in. The self clean cycle also seems to a problem for me in the old oven as it is so terrible hot. I think it messes with the electronic board. I will not start doing the messiest roasting in the bottom oven, away from the electronic board. In the old oven I could open the upper oven as the lower oven self cleaned and that seemed to do the trick. The upper oven could never go over 30 min with out an error on self clean.
again, great video!
If there is some way you could increase air flow around the back of the oven, many of these problems would disappear. Physical space can't normally be changed but perhaps a vent or fan in the back might help. You could use some kind of bathroom fan....
Very nice video. A friend of mine has the Kitchenaid Superba KEMC308kss01 combo micro/oven wall unit. She had a power failure and since power was restored the display is completely blank and no buttons function.I have checked the main inline fuse and it's good. There is power going to it. I found a small fuse that is soldered to the back side of control panel that is bad. Is this the control panel fuse?
I didn't see an inline fuse like you show in the video.She told me she didn't self clean the oven. Just that there was a power failure and then power restored. Any help would be much appreciated.
Mark, my whirlpool double oven has power and makes all the beeping noises but the control panel is not lighting up and when I turn the oven on it stays on for 2 minutes and then turns off. Any ideals of whats wrong? Great video by the way.
Not sure. Check the discussion thread, there is reference to a very good pdf document made for appliance techs with more detail.
ok will do thanks
Great self help video... wish there were more like this. Much Thanks
Yes, when I searched the problem of overheating after self cleaning whirlpool or kitchenaid ovens, I found a lot of angry posts about recurrent failure after self cleaning. Most said you can't fix it yourself, and so I hope this video is a useful addition for those with this problem. Thanks for watching, it's nice to know somebody is out there, ha ha.
Great video. Especially showing how the other end of thermal control wire is removed. Could you name the source to get the replacement thermal control fuse? I have not been able to locate a vendor who carries it.
I believe the first fuse is still widely available. I took the second fuse in the video to a local electronics repair shop and they were able to read the tiny numbers written on the fuse and replace it for me.
We can't fix Whirlpool's pathetic designs - of the electronics, the lack of insulation, or the stupid wiring that kills the blower along with the heat and therefore heat-soaks the electronics - but I wonder if MicroTemp makes a similarly sized & rated switch with an AUTO-resetting bimetal button... At least that would save the wasted time, labor & expense of replacing that stupid thermal cutout.
Trying to figure out how to take off the top.
Sheet metal screws around the outside perimeter, then the top cover lifts off.