Thank you, I'm hoping that these videos help those that are wanting to get into customizing. Back when I started there wasn't many resources to learn from.
@@CollectorExpress I know these videos will because when I started I found only pictures of finished customs or w.i.p.s to go from. Since then I have learned from mistakes and my own projects and others who have been helpful in sharing knowledge. Please keep sharing and helping people to grow. Ive started to post more on my UA-cam channel but mainly I use IG as a platform.
That's one of the reasons that I use the marker. Once you grind off all of the mark on the joints it should be enough clearance. On the disc hinges you should be able to see a gap between the disc and the opening of the part. When smoothing the joints I try to make them as smooth as the texture on rest of the figure.
What do you mean by totally disassembling? Popping the joints out of the torso, and heating popping the biceps off? Or cutting out the disc hinges? Just let me know which, and I'll try to help.
@@CollectorExpress i mean disassemble the hinges of the shoulder. Because i cant find a way to pop it out or heat it..my only option is to cut it. Idk what you call it shoulder disc???..thanks
It's a Dremel 3000. They usually come with an assortment of different bits to get you started. I've used cheaper ones, but usually just burn out after a short time.
What’s the best dremel tip to use when trying to get rid of excess plastic in the joints to avoid paint rub? I don’t tend to take my figs apart as you do
So I need to spray after paintings and before ? Becasue I have painted with model color on a venom figure and after dry if I make with nail a scrath comes off. Why is that ???
@@CollectorExpress can you give my a good spray brand name and colors? Becasue i make orders only on Amazon. And there I find only model colors and citadel
I do paint them broken down like this. I use a blow dryer to heat the parts back to reassemble them. The heat can affect some paints, but I rarely have any issues with reassembling them.
I do indeed paint them before reassembly. When putting them together I use a blow dryer to heat the areas where the pins go and carefully push the pins back in using pliers and rounded tool to push them in which can be something like the end of a paint brush.
@@CollectorExpress Thank you for your response, and great video. How do you reassemble joints such as elbows after painting them without marring them, as they have to be bent and flexed to get them back into place?
On some instances that is true, but on this it wouldn't have been possible since I was going from maroon to bright red. This is more for when it's not possible to dye the parts the color that you need.
What about the ankles? Those are the ones that always give me fits. They don't pop out, and trying to dremel them as is, makes for a choppy looking mess... that never seems to NOT rub.
I modify the ankles on this project when I start working on the boots. On my Instagram I have some pictures of prepping the shoulders and wrist on one of the Hulk customs. I use a similar method on ankle and shoulders as in this video but of course those can't be removed on most cases. I start with marking the joints with a marker and with a course bit grind off material with the peg pushed as far as it will go to one side, and then repeat that after moving it the other direction. Then I use a smoother bit to clean up the grinding marks. instagram.com/p/CXXKxH7spGE/
The use of the marker to see the depth of the grind is great
The Sharpie idea is brilliant! Thanks for sharing this!
Everyone loves tutorial videos, awesome job!
Really looking forward to seeing more of these, keep up the great work!!
More to come!
CHECKIN IN , VERY INFORMATIVE THANKS FOR THE PRO TIPS!
I'm glad that you found it helpful. 🙂
Excellent tutorial! These are some of my favorite videos that you do! Thanks for sharing this and keep 'em coming! 👍
Thank you very much. I'm planning on adding more tutorials 🙂
Subscribed, looking forward to more customizing content!
Awesome, thank you!
Badass !
Thanks!
Good tips! I should try that sandpaper method. Also thanks for the eye protection shout out it’s so important to protect the optics!!
Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful. And like you said it's very important to protect your eyes when doing this kind of stuff.
Excellent job😄
Thank you 👍
Great video for those who are beginning or wanting to increase skills. Bravo!
Thank you, I'm hoping that these videos help those that are wanting to get into customizing. Back when I started there wasn't many resources to learn from.
@@CollectorExpress I know these videos will because when I started I found only pictures of finished customs or w.i.p.s to go from. Since then I have learned from mistakes and my own projects and others who have been helpful in sharing knowledge. Please keep sharing and helping people to grow. Ive started to post more on my UA-cam channel but mainly I use IG as a platform.
Cool tutorial! Will definitely be using these tips going forward. Thanks!
I'm glad that they were helpful 🙂👍
How do you know when the plastic is sanded or smoother enough
That's one of the reasons that I use the marker. Once you grind off all of the mark on the joints it should be enough clearance. On the disc hinges you should be able to see a gap between the disc and the opening of the part. When smoothing the joints I try to make them as smooth as the texture on rest of the figure.
@@CollectorExpress wow thank for replying so fast. I really love action figures and want to get into customizing them so those video really helped
Do you have any video of totally disassembling the shoulder of caliban???thanks
What do you mean by totally disassembling? Popping the joints out of the torso, and heating popping the biceps off? Or cutting out the disc hinges? Just let me know which, and I'll try to help.
@@CollectorExpress i mean disassemble the hinges of the shoulder. Because i cant find a way to pop it out or heat it..my only option is to cut it. Idk what you call it shoulder disc???..thanks
@felixcalaguasiii8134 3 years later and he didn't answer back 😭
Subscribed man.
Awesome, thank you 👍 I subscribed to your channel as well.
Which Dremel model are you using? Do I need any additional Dremel accessory parts?
It's a Dremel 3000. They usually come with an assortment of different bits to get you started. I've used cheaper ones, but usually just burn out after a short time.
Thanks dude
What’s the best dremel tip to use when trying to get rid of excess plastic in the joints to avoid paint rub? I don’t tend to take my figs apart as you do
I use small diameter grinding and sanding bits for cases like that. As for the exact name of the bits, I'm not sure. I buy my bits in multi-pack sets.
So I need to spray after paintings and before ? Becasue I have painted with model color on a venom figure and after dry if I make with nail a scrath comes off. Why is that ???
A sealer is necessary to make the paint more durable. Testors and Mr Hobby clear and dull coats work great.
@@CollectorExpress can you give my a good spray brand name and colors? Becasue i make orders only on Amazon. And there I find only model colors and citadel
@@CollectorExpress you use this sealer before painting the figure or after??
Do you paint the figure broken down like this? if so how do you get the joints back on after painted? wouldn't heated up affect the paint?
I do paint them broken down like this. I use a blow dryer to heat the parts back to reassemble them. The heat can affect some paints, but I rarely have any issues with reassembling them.
Do you paint these before reassembly? If so, how do you get the pieces back together without marring the paint?
I do indeed paint them before reassembly. When putting them together I use a blow dryer to heat the areas where the pins go and carefully push the pins back in using pliers and rounded tool to push them in which can be something like the end of a paint brush.
@@CollectorExpress Thank you for your response, and great video. How do you reassemble joints such as elbows after painting them without marring them, as they have to be bent and flexed to get them back into place?
So can this technique be applied to figures from any series?
Pretty much it can be if they use similar style joints, and of course pinless joints you will only be able to modify the exposed areas.
You could also dye the plastic if you could find a dye that was the color you wanted.
On some instances that is true, but on this it wouldn't have been possible since I was going from maroon to bright red. This is more for when it's not possible to dye the parts the color that you need.
( I pose my figures a lot) does the paint rub off?
I haven't had any issues with the figures that I prepared like this. You just have to make sure to removed enough material for clearance.
What about the ankles? Those are the ones that always give me fits. They don't pop out, and trying to dremel them as is, makes for a choppy looking mess... that never seems to NOT rub.
I modify the ankles on this project when I start working on the boots. On my Instagram I have some pictures of prepping the shoulders and wrist on one of the Hulk customs. I use a similar method on ankle and shoulders as in this video but of course those can't be removed on most cases. I start with marking the joints with a marker and with a course bit grind off material with the peg pushed as far as it will go to one side, and then repeat that after moving it the other direction. Then I use a smoother bit to clean up the grinding marks.
instagram.com/p/CXXKxH7spGE/
IM MAKEING A CUSTOM DEAD POOL AND THIS IS REALY HELPFUL
And people wonder why customs are soo expensive.
👍 there can be a lot of work and hours that can go into making customs.
@@CollectorExpress I know. I'm a customizer too.