Good instruction and resolution vid. Kudos. One real problem with carbon ring is having cases that are too short, creating the ring, say firing 150-200 rounds where the ring is closer to the shoulder than the barrel throat. Next time you shoot, if the case neck is longer than where that ring is at, then you can really get pressure spikes. That's a bad, dangerous occurrence especially in very tight chambers like match reamed chambers usually are. This is one reason us F-Class and BR shooters clean our barrels and chambers every time we fire the rifle. Many of us run a little hotter on our handloads for more velocity. Lou Murdica did a test on this condition and found it can increase pressure up to 10k psi. That's enough to cause a catastrophic failure in older or worn-out barrels. Most of your modern, centerfire rifle chambers and bolts are rated in CUPS or psi. Roughly, 50 - 62k psi is most common. There's a lot more in the 55k - 60k psi rating. A more worn out throat and barrel will deposit carbon and other contaminants a lot faster. Shooting a case that's cut too short will also result in wearing out the throat closer to the shoulder of the case as well. This creates and uneven surface most especially in your smaller diameter cartridges which run hot faster and have higher velocity, lighter bullets. Seriously, great PSA and love the short format. Really do appreciate all the information and how quickly the community is responding to the desire of easy to digest all the way to wickedly complex info. I like how you're using your own experiences as a guide for the topics you are sharing. I think folks like F-Class John, Applied Ballistics, T-Rex, Tiborosaurus Rex, Winning in the Wind, Witchdoctor, Eric Cortina, and Ultimate Reloader have changed the face of video--based (CBT) training in the sport. I have watched the industry and community go from closely guarded top-secret wive's tales and anecdotal statements to sharing the most coveted and protected everything in order to keep the shooting sports alive, healthy, and friendly. Great work! Keep it up, because I love where this is going!!
The missing section in this video is how to remove carbon ring. With that said, this is the best explanation of carbon ring i've seen thus far, and mitigation steps are solid in this video. Well Done!!!
Thanks! This is my process: foam wipe out for 24 hours. Patch it out. Inspect with bore scope for pressure ring present. If so, proceed with drill chucked up with a bore brush and C4 bore tech and go to town. Patch it out. If it’s REALLY stubborn after that, Parker hale jag, patch, kroil, JB bore paste and do some passes. Should be gone then.
That's great to know, thanks. I will turn up a bullet blank in brass and thread it to fit my Hornady straight O.A.L. gauge. That way I can measure the full case length in my rifle and trim accordingly. Thanks.........Richard T.
nice one 👌 I bought a used m24 clone Short action though in 7mm-08. I guess the chamber was too long of the trimming was too short. I have to deal with a super hardcore carbon ring even iosso bore cleaner bronze brush corded drill don't have any significant impact on it.
Had a mate who got hold of a BSA 5round 22lr it was very tight to get a round in as it was an old 22 we thought it may have been a standard 22 a mate had a barrel scope and we looked down the breach OMG it looked as thick as the carbon on a diesel truck exhaust we put a rubber plug at the opening of the breach closed the bolt firm and poured carbon cleaner down the barrel till it was full and let it soak for a couple of hours first lot came out like black motor oil and we got it like chrome now it puts a bullet in the breach and close the bolt with one finger an now shoots 1/2inch at 50m we asked the original owner and he said his farther bought it in1951 and was told never clean the barrel of a 22. and i don't think he did the carbon ring near the lands was like a Oring
So you're saying to trim when you're .005 away from max OAL. However, you didn't state what you should be trimming down to? What would be the recommended trim to length after determining your max chamber OAL?
Ex: 2.500 is max chamber length Your brass grows to 2.495 Trim to 2.494 if you want, or more. Just understand the more area that’s exposed is more are for carbon ring to grow.
Hey! Completely up to you. Our ballistician has recommended when you are within .005” of max chamber length. Ex; 2.500 is max chamber length. Brass is currently at 2.495, then trim to desired length (whatever it may be that you want)…2.494, 2.493, 2.492, etc. The more you trim down, the more area of exposure for carbon ring.
I ordered this chamber length gauge for my 6.5CM and my 22-250. Reading the instructions, they suggest drilling a hole through the primer pocket into the case interior. I didn’t see you mention that specific step in your video. The drilled hole is supposed to allow you to reuse the gauge insert. Guess it’s a good idea if you have more rifles in the same caliber.
Hey! You can just pull the gauge out with your fingers and reuse it. Write down the measurement for the correct trim length so you don’t lose it. That way, you can reuse the same gauge.
I know this is an old video but fundamentals are timeless. I believe I’ve been trimming too short… ie…hornady book would state max and minimum. For my 7mm prc the max is 2.280 and minimum is 2.270. I’ve have been experiencing stuck and ripped cases in my ar15 .223 and LR308, could this be a part of my problem?
Thank you, sir! I would recommend trimming when you are within .005” of your max chamber length. Brass still needs some room to expand. So, I’d trim just under that. EX: max chamber length is 1.500” and your brass is currently 1.495. Trim just under 1.495…so, 1.494 or 1.493 etc.
To highlight more on your question of too short, depends entirely upon your chamber length. You shouldn’t be seeing build up of carbon in the neck region of your chamber. If you do, make sure to properly remove it with whatever method necessary and let your cases grow out.
To make the gauge slide a bit easier, I cut a slot in the side wall of my test case as I do when finding the jam point for a bullet. Still holds the gauge in the case and is repeatable, but makes it a lot easier to get the gauge back out.
Great informative video 👍🏻
Good instruction and resolution vid. Kudos. One real problem with carbon ring is having cases that are too short, creating the ring, say firing 150-200 rounds where the ring is closer to the shoulder than the barrel throat. Next time you shoot, if the case neck is longer than where that ring is at, then you can really get pressure spikes. That's a bad, dangerous occurrence especially in very tight chambers like match reamed chambers usually are. This is one reason us F-Class and BR shooters clean our barrels and chambers every time we fire the rifle. Many of us run a little hotter on our handloads for more velocity. Lou Murdica did a test on this condition and found it can increase pressure up to 10k psi. That's enough to cause a catastrophic failure in older or worn-out barrels. Most of your modern, centerfire rifle chambers and bolts are rated in CUPS or psi. Roughly, 50 - 62k psi is most common. There's a lot more in the 55k - 60k psi rating. A more worn out throat and barrel will deposit carbon and other contaminants a lot faster. Shooting a case that's cut too short will also result in wearing out the throat closer to the shoulder of the case as well. This creates and uneven surface most especially in your smaller diameter cartridges which run hot faster and have higher velocity, lighter bullets.
Seriously, great PSA and love the short format. Really do appreciate all the information and how quickly the community is responding to the desire of easy to digest all the way to wickedly complex info. I like how you're using your own experiences as a guide for the topics you are sharing.
I think folks like F-Class John, Applied Ballistics, T-Rex, Tiborosaurus Rex, Winning in the Wind, Witchdoctor, Eric Cortina, and Ultimate Reloader have changed the face of video--based (CBT) training in the sport. I have watched the industry and community go from closely guarded top-secret wive's tales and anecdotal statements to sharing the most coveted and protected everything in order to keep the shooting sports alive, healthy, and friendly.
Great work! Keep it up, because I love where this is going!!
I’m loving this channel. I’m getting great info here that I don’t see anywhere else.
Great video I subscribed ;reminded me of shooting 38 special in a 357 or 22 short and a long rifle chamber and then going back. Problems from the 60s.
The missing section in this video is how to remove carbon ring. With that said, this is the best explanation of carbon ring i've seen thus far, and mitigation steps are solid in this video. Well Done!!!
Thanks! This is my process: foam wipe out for 24 hours. Patch it out. Inspect with bore scope for pressure ring present. If so, proceed with drill chucked up with a bore brush and C4 bore tech and go to town. Patch it out. If it’s REALLY stubborn after that, Parker hale jag, patch, kroil, JB bore paste and do some passes. Should be gone then.
Nice content that I have not seen anyone else outline like this.
That's great to know, thanks.
I will turn up a bullet blank in brass and thread it to fit my Hornady straight O.A.L. gauge.
That way I can measure the full case length in my rifle and trim accordingly.
Thanks.........Richard T.
Thank you for watching!
nice one 👌 I bought a used m24 clone Short action though in 7mm-08. I guess the chamber was too long of the trimming was too short. I have to deal with a super hardcore carbon ring even iosso bore cleaner bronze brush corded drill don't have any significant impact on it.
Had a mate who got hold of a BSA 5round 22lr it was very tight to get a round in as it was an old 22 we thought it may have been a standard 22 a mate had a barrel scope and we looked down the breach OMG it looked as thick as the carbon on a diesel truck exhaust we put a rubber plug at the opening of the breach closed the bolt firm and poured carbon cleaner down the barrel till it was full and let it soak for a couple of hours first lot came out like black motor oil and we got it like chrome now it puts a bullet in the breach and close the bolt with one finger an now shoots 1/2inch at 50m we asked the original owner and he said his farther bought it in1951 and was told never clean the barrel of a 22. and i don't think he did the carbon ring near the lands was like a Oring
Holy cow!
I'm doing research on this, and actually really like your vibes. I'll check out your other stuff.
One gun channel to another, solid sub from me.
Hey! Thank you for the kind words.
So you're saying to trim when you're .005 away from max OAL. However, you didn't state what you should be trimming down to? What would be the recommended trim to length after determining your max chamber OAL?
Ex: 2.500 is max chamber length
Your brass grows to 2.495
Trim to 2.494 if you want, or more. Just understand the more area that’s exposed is more are for carbon ring to grow.
Great info. Keep it up!
Thank you!
The Sinclair instructions say that it should be .024 inch clearance as any longer can cause higher chamber pressure. What are your thoughts on this?
Hey! Completely up to you. Our ballistician has recommended when you are within .005” of max chamber length.
Ex; 2.500 is max chamber length.
Brass is currently at 2.495, then trim to desired length (whatever it may be that you want)…2.494, 2.493, 2.492, etc.
The more you trim down, the more area of exposure for carbon ring.
Thank You very much. Subscribed!
Another gem... Thank You
Have you read Jeff Siewert's book "Ammunition Demystified"?
I ordered this chamber length gauge for my 6.5CM and my 22-250. Reading the instructions, they suggest drilling a hole through the primer pocket into the case interior. I didn’t see you mention that specific step in your video. The drilled hole is supposed to allow you to reuse the gauge insert. Guess it’s a good idea if you have more rifles in the same caliber.
Hey! You can just pull the gauge out with your fingers and reuse it. Write down the measurement for the correct trim length so you don’t lose it. That way, you can reuse the same gauge.
You could drill the primer pocket large enough to insert the tail leg of your calipers to get a better measurement
Dude your legit! Subbed
Haha thank you!
Great job! I’ll update my trimming from a lathe fine file to a better system! 😉
Buzz saw and WD40 as propellant works great! 😉
I know this is an old video but fundamentals are timeless. I believe I’ve been trimming too short… ie…hornady book would state max and minimum. For my 7mm prc the max is 2.280 and minimum is 2.270. I’ve have been experiencing stuck and ripped cases in my ar15 .223 and LR308, could this be a part of my problem?
Very interesting
Good stuff.
Thank you, Jason!
Thank you! Great info. So what is too short? .020" under max length? Or is just anything under .005"?
Thank you, sir!
I would recommend trimming when you are within .005” of your max chamber length. Brass still needs some room to expand. So, I’d trim just under that.
EX: max chamber length is 1.500” and your brass is currently 1.495. Trim just under 1.495…so, 1.494 or 1.493 etc.
To highlight more on your question of too short, depends entirely upon your chamber length. You shouldn’t be seeing build up of carbon in the neck region of your chamber. If you do, make sure to properly remove it with whatever method necessary and let your cases grow out.
To make the gauge slide a bit easier, I cut a slot in the side wall of my test case as I do when finding the jam point for a bullet. Still holds the gauge in the case and is repeatable, but makes it a lot easier to get the gauge back out.
Great tip!
0.005 it is.
Well said indeed!! 🐕
Great video! Very useful!
Thank you!