Jeff, just want to take a moment to say thanks for taking the time to put out these videos. Very very helpful for newer riders like me playing catch up on the learning curve.
@@slaverace1 You really offer so much value and we all appreciate it! I placed an order last month with you and those caraway pegs are so fricken awesome Jeff. Staff was amazing too!
No ego problems here, 57 and using every cheat I can afford ! Rekluse and LHRB out east are game changers....and that JX8 let's me tackle rock gardens I never could before on my measly 200xcw! Thanks for more great info.
Tubliss and good suspension (MX Tech Lucky) has become priority for me. I'm 65 and having a well set up bike makes life good. Thanks Jeff for all the good videos!
Another great video Jeff It's so fascinating how little "real" information is shared on the shallow UA-camr's and Instagram guys vs the solid, foundational, quality information from experienced guys like Jeff.
Gosh it’s good to hear what I’ve been experiencing from someone who is as good as you are. I’m 6’3” tall and weigh 340 pounds. I’ve said over and over there’s no point in me trying to crank the bejeebus out of suspension that isn’t going to work for me anyway. I’ve had two bikes resprung from my weight. Each time it was like riding a new bike and you CANNOT get that from a spring made for half of your weight. I found this video because I just picked up a 2018 300 xcw and will be ordering a spring set next Tuesday. After I can put all my gear on and get on a scale.
So being this was basically a "basic's" vid for mostly newer riders on suspension mistakes, the one thing I got out of it was that your web site has suspension spring rates!! Who knew. It was also an eye opener that you mentioned using the riders TOTAL weight with gear where other sites I've used (RT, etc) only mention riders weight and I always thought that was off. Even with progressive spring rates mentioned by others, it still feels too soft for me. I'll be going to your site right away and see what it says my rates should be for my ride level, TOTAL weight and types of terrain. Thanks again.
Hello: It is a "basics" video but applies to all levels of riders. I see plenty of upper level riders with horrible suspension set-up. Our website has anything and everything you could possibly need for a KTM, HQV, GasGas, including accurate spring rate charts. The RT calculator is a joke as are other calculators. The purpose of springs is to support the combined weight of the bike and rider (including gear) and has little to do with rider skill level or types of terrain. If you are an advanced rider you might need stiffer valving but not stiffer springs than recommended on the charts.
Jeff really hitting the head on this topic. I also don’t ride other guys bikes or let anyone ride mine. When they do insist and I take a quick spin. I can’t give their bike back fast enough. Many suffer from moditis. If they had a stock bike they would be miles ahead. Guessing many never rode their bike when it was new. Immediately they tear it apart and get the suspension all tricked out. Bar risers and do dads that mimic the biker gang in Every Which Way but Loose. Don’t even start on tire selection and air pressure. I am just out to ride my bike and maximize my time. Good video Jeff.
Excited for another suspension balance video. Your last one was excellent. I am a HUGE (old and half crippled) dude. I struggle getting the chassis balanced.
I'll try to provide helpful content in my upcoming suspension balance video BUT being a heavy duty guy makes little difference in getting a balanced set-up.
I had a 'professional' change my fork springs. On a whim I decided to check his work(always do that). I had to buy a huge breaker bar to loosen the triple clamp bolts. Stop over tightening everything, you'll be glad you did in the future.
Some very thought provoking stuff, thank you. One thing I don’t grasp well is REBOUND clicker adjustments., especially on the rear,( but both really). I can seem to settle on a good setting w/ my 21 KTM 300 xc-w. Stock components…
@@slaverace1 170lbs. in a bathing suit; full gear on a local 1/2 day ride = 210lbs and on a long distance all day ride up to 220lbs (full packs on back).
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your video's. Question: why the Blackjack front shocks? Suggestion: you should do a shop tour of your home shop there. Us gear heads would appreciate it
Jeff another excellent and informative video! I think it’s awesome that you have been successful and have paired back your workdays for riding! Good for you sir!
Head bearings have no play, but steering feels really "loose" at 50mph plus. For example, If I am riding along and I initial a slight wobble (terrible idea) the steering feels like it might escalate in to a high speed wobble… BUT it doesn’t, it settles back to straight. Is this normal? My other bikes don’t seem to steer so freely at speed. This is a 2024 FE501s for the record. I bought new fork and shock spring from you guys as well as preload spacers, oil, 50mm fork tool. That all went great by the way, suspension feels very nice :). I am just a little sketched out about the steering at speed.
Love the videos, very informative. I have a ‘20 300XCW that I bought 2nd hand. Love the bike and have done several mods through you guys. One question I have is what would the characteristics be of having too lightweight of a rear shock spring be? While I have sag set properly I have always felt my bikes rear kicks me up over whoops instead of soaking them up. Maybe I have too light of a spring and have it compressed too much to set sag correctly. I’m ~190lbs and wear another 25-30lbs of gear.
@@slaverace1 I never changed them since I bought it used so I assume they’re stock but I don’t know for sure. I feel like they’re too lightweight if anything, hence why I’m asking the question.
I fully rebuild my chassis bushings, seals, and bearings every 400-500 hours. Forks get a full rebuild every 200 hours. Shock every 300-400 hours. Top end refresh and simple head job on the ktm 4 strokes every 400-500 hours as well. Every 1000-1200 hours I will rebuild the crank, and new transmission bearings. The fuel pumps seem to last me around 500 hours with being serviced around every 100 hours. My "used" bikes very well maintained. Now this has worked fine for me and what I use my bikes for but your mileage may vary.
@@slaverace1 yeah I do change the fluid every 50 hours in the forks. The fluid gets bad quick. But they don't see new bushings and seals until 200 hours. The rear shock I don't notice a decrease in preformance until about 300 hours. I used to rack up a ton of hours in a short time on my excf 450. You're right I do let somethings go overdue the biggest one I shortened the interval on was the shock hiem joints and swingarm bearings and bushings. My numbers are also based of dual sport use the 450 sees quite a bit of road.
Could you go into detail in the next sag video on the "preload" please. You said 5mm in front I believe, not sure how to come up with that measurement. And any more info pds on rear.
Suspension setup is #1 on my list. I can deal with a whole host of issues on a ride as long as I am happy with the suspension. I wont ride a bike with poor suspension.
Have you heard of Kreft Moto for suspension on a Husqvarna? I've got a TE300i and have used a lot of your components on it, i've absolutely loved you guys. curious about your recommendation on their suspension?
Hello: My name is not Chuck. ALL parts on my bike are listed below the video in the description. slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/
I noticed 2 handles on your clutch side of handlebars, is one a hand brake? Sorry getting back into riding after a back injury years ago and looking into setting up a soft suspension 300. Thanks
Thanks Jeff. One area that is not covered anywhere is what are the symptoms of a bad setup and what do I do to correct it. For example my bike understeers and climbs out of ruts. I always thought that was just my bad technique. Maybe I was not putting enough pressure on the outside foot peg. But maybe it is a bad setup. So how do I recognize that and how do I fix it? Do I go stiffer, softer, more or less?
Thanks Jeff - but I have to admit, I’d rather just buy your bike when you go to get the next one… sounds like the dream rig. What are you, 6’2” and around 210lbs? If so, you’ve already set it up for me…
Good tips Jeff although it does give me pause that some of these things need mentioning 😂 It takes all types I guess. My question is about lowering a 300 pds for a light shorter rider trail riding for fun, not doing big jumps nor hard enduro stuff. A couple inches would be awesome mainly for having to get a foot down in rutted, washed out, dips, and otherwise uneven terrain. The lost travel and ground clearance wouldn't be a concern. I know I could send off the shock and forks to a trusted outfit and not be worried about the details. But I don't have the budget for that. Do you have any suggestions for componentry and procedures for a mechanic doing it myself? If that's too much for a quick comment answer, could you maybe please do a video on the topic? Much obliged sir, good people! Cheers!
We have DIY lowering kits in stock and videos on how to install them. slavensracing.com/shop/front-fork-lowering-inner-kit-for-wp-xplor-by-zeta/ slavensracing.com/shop/rear-suspension-lowering-kit-for-kyb-wp-showa-by-zeta/
@@slaverace1 This is awesome, thanks Jeff! I see a fitment for my rear shock. 👍 These remind me of spacers a guy in Australia was machining I saw years ago, but he never responded and I couldn't find them elsewhere. The forks however aren't listing a fitment for my *'15 300xc-w* that was pre-explor. I even checked the other fork lowering kits for kyb/showa just in case, no fitment listed there either. Am I missing something??? Thanks and cheers!
@@slaverace1 I will Jeff, thanks! I just need a few days to tend to other projects first but this is exciting, I'm gonna make this happen. Meanwhile please let me ask you personally this about the springs: if I use just the spacers only with my stock springs, will it essentially just increase the preload? I have an ims 5.3gal tank putting more weight on the forks, currently have the preload adjustment at max, and my gut feeling like more wouldn't hurt. Or would the stock springs then touch coils and limit stroke at compression with the spacers and preload adjustment backed out to min? Me with my gear and the extra fuel is below the max weight for the chart in the manual referencing rear spring rates (my manual doesn't mention front spring rate options, only rear). It doesn't feel like I need higher rate springs. It just feels like it's usually operating a little compressed in the stroke where the damping is greater. And I've tried opening the rebound valve fully but to no apparent avail. That's why I'm thinking more preload. I wish I had a way of measuring the parameters instead of going by feel. 😂☮️
Jeff, thank you for the videos you put out! I’m looking at both the Raven and blackjack cartridge kits for my 19 250sx. I currently have a pro action/pr2 hybrid now, but looking to do away with air completely. Is the blackjack insert worth the extra few hundred over the Raven and or why? The bike sees just as much moto as it does woods. Thanks!
thanks jeff very informative. can you share some thoughts about fork height settings in one of your upcomnig videos? fork height changes on my 22 350 xcf-w made big differences. i run 2nd line from the top for high speed stuff, most trails here in wi are 2nd-4th gear
I always put a little anti-seize on the pinch clamp bolt threads and shoulders to get the most accurate torque on them. good idea? or over kill? thanks for the video by the way!
You mentioned tire weight . . . thoughts on UHD Bridgestones or mousses in regards to suspension working harder? I'm a few months behind you in age riding / racing Southeastern US on locally tuned suspenders. Most people comment how soft it is. Too soft and it affects turning, too stiff and it feels like it's going to break loose (probably in my head). Always a compromise (XPLOR / DelSagio + stock / modified valving).
Hello C Bob: UHD tubes are extremely heavy and the gyroscopic effect of that weight seriously downgrades how the bike turns and how quickly it changes direction. It also drastically reduces suspension performance. UHD tubes are one of the worst things you can do to your bike. The current Nitro mousses are too heavy but Michelins are not too bad.
Bought two used 2022 ktms and the owners had 35 psi in both tires. They had the clickers on forks 35 clicks out, similar numbers on all clickers way off. No wonder they didn't have a good time riding and only put 4hrs on them.
I have loose bearings on my '21 501s, 4k miles, I torqued to spec but it's still loose. I don't feel any notching. Tighten some more and make sure steering is not binding? Or replace? I had a fork issue due to my own mistake during springs install that was causing head bobbing until I fixed it. Maybe that shot my bearings?
Hey Jeff, awesome video as always! I wonder if you have any experience with Kreft Suspension's work? They seem to specialize in the KTM WP suspension, and I've heard good things about them from a few people. Thanks!
Hello: I personally know Adam Krefting. He's a good, honest, skilled guy but I don't think he works in the suspension shop much anymore. I've heard good and bad and it's not fair to judge his work off of others comments. Greg at www.factorysuspensionworks.com does excellent work and I have used and tested his work. It is excellent in the rocks and roots.
Really good and helpful video. I just want to confirm a beginner question. When people say that they have a bike with suspension for say 80kg (Europe) or 90kg and so on, is this weight including all the gear?
I see on your bench two intercomp spring rate checkers. Is one for fork springs? Also have you had experience with front fork springs going set (wearing out not holding rate) without the rate checker what is a good way to measure fork springs rate?
Hello: Yes, one is for fork springs. I've been in the MC industry for 50+ years, tested 1000s of springs and have yet to see a spring not hold the rate. Yes, they can settle a little but the rate remains true. Regards, JS
On every bike, new or new to me, l grease everyting, check oil/air level in each fork, get right springs, get chain tension right and go from there. Never amazed by the lack of grease in a new bike!
Hello: You're on the right track however the fork oil level on modern dirt bikes cannot be checked. Oil gets trapped between the inner and outer tubes and therefore you must refill and reset.
@@slaverace1 yes - completely agreed - l should have clarified that l changed fork oil - usually after an 1hr to clean it up. I forgot to add that here in a wet climate its good to ACF50 your electrical connections whilst its all apart. Cheers.
With the air forks, being a beginner at 190lbs without gear, I've found that I need the psi to be at around 120. I ride mx though but if I go up to even 133psi, if I don't make it to the landing of the tabletop, the forks feel like they clank hard instead of being plush. I have the clickers on fork and rear on comfort setting. These are small tabletops and I'm not jumping high.
that pressure is way too low for your weight. Air forks are the most plush in the upper part of their stroke. you'll want your cold pressure in the 140-150psi range.
@@LocalGarage that's not what I've found. Tried on 2 different huskies, an 2017 and 2022. Both I tried comfort clicker settings at 148psi and on 133psi, same result. Rode two ktms, 2019 125sx and 2022 150sx. They both felt plush and they were set at around 120psi and on comfort setting. So yeah if i was faster I would need more air but I've felt uncomfortable on the bikes for past 6 months and it's bc suspension was too stiff. Now I'm riding much better and faster.
On my 2021 250 xc TPI I run the stock forks at 141 cold and 12 clicks out comp. Stiffer rebound too but can’t remember number. I’m 10 pounds lighter than you. When riding sandy areas I turn the comp in to about 7 out. Extremely rocky rides I will spin the comp clicker to about 25 clicks out. My revalved rear shock rides a little higher in the stroke putting a little more pressure on the front than stock requiring 2 pounds more in the fork compared to 139 with stock shock.
@@riders.oregon4474 so your riding woods? What happens when you go out closer to 17 clicks on compression on fork and lower psi? If you have ever tried it that is.
My friend rode all the same bikes I discussed and he is 230lbs. Said he couldn't ride the huskies bc they were too stiff. Maybe yall should try lowering psi or your just much faster and not going over big obstacles.
Hi Jeff, My KTM manual says that when retightening the upper triple clamp "use a plastic hammer and tap lightly on the upper triple clamp to avoid stresses". It doesn't really come across clearly to me what they mean, or when and where to tap. I wondered if you know anything about it? Thanks for all the great videos you post, always interesting and informative.
Hello: I have not seen that in a manual. I suppose they are implying that the clamp will stick on the tubes since the tightening is being done in the center of the top clamp. Wouldn't hurt to tap on the outside edges of the clamp when you tighten the middle.
@@slaverace1 Hi Jeff, thanks for getting back to me. In the manual it says it only applies to specific models, my bike is the KTM 350 EXC F Factory Edition (Euro model), which may be why you hadn’t come across it. Thanks again, and i’ll take your advice when I adjust them next.
Jeff how do you like that Rekluse LHRB? On my Alta MXR I run a Brembo master cylinder lrhb and it's simply amazing. Requires practically no one finger pressure to make that rear tire skid. On my 350 XC-F though I run the Ox-Brake Hydra Pro. I can lock up the rear wheel with it but it requires a lot more pressure, and over time it can really be tiring on the hand when racing at race pace speeds. I have read a lot of reviews and opinions about the Rekluse lhrb that are negative and it has always shied me away from getting one. Especially the bleeding process and the fact that people say it constantly needs to be re-bled. What are your thoughts?
I’ve had my Rekluse LHRB since 2019, never lost pressure. Tried the hydraulic OX brake and it lost pressure within weeks of the install and again after that.
The latest Rekluse LHRB slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/ is excellent! It has great stopping power, does not require excessive lever pressure and has excellent modulation. The bleeding is straight forward if you READ the instructions and watch the video. If bled correctly the first time, it never needs re-bled unless you are changing the fluid. The negative reviews I've seen have all been from guys that don't read the installation instructions. Some guys need to lock their toolbox and throw away the keys.
I use Apple Air Pods which work very well and the video is very loud on all of our computers. You are the only one that has mentioned and issue so maybe something on your end needs turned up.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Jeff, just want to take a moment to say thanks for taking the time to put out these videos. Very very helpful for newer riders like me playing catch up on the learning curve.
Glad you like them!
@@slaverace1 You really offer so much value and we all appreciate it! I placed an order last month with you and those caraway pegs are so fricken awesome Jeff. Staff was amazing too!
No ego problems here, 57 and using every cheat I can afford ! Rekluse and LHRB out east are game changers....and that JX8 let's me tackle rock gardens I never could before on my measly 200xcw! Thanks for more great info.
You're welcome.
Lhrb?
Left hand rear brake.
Great minds think alike! Excellent run down on making your ride safe and enjoyable. Thank you , Jeff! Keep on rockin'
Tubliss and good suspension (MX Tech Lucky) has become priority for me. I'm 65 and having a well set up bike makes life good. Thanks Jeff for all the good videos!
You're welcome.
Another very helpful video to remind me of ALL the things I need to keep an eye on in search of "the great ride" ... Thank you Jeff
Another great video Jeff
It's so fascinating how little "real" information is shared on the shallow UA-camr's and Instagram guys vs the solid, foundational, quality information from experienced guys like Jeff.
Glad you enjoyed it
Gosh it’s good to hear what I’ve been experiencing from someone who is as good as you are. I’m 6’3” tall and weigh 340 pounds. I’ve said over and over there’s no point in me trying to crank the bejeebus out of suspension that isn’t going to work for me anyway. I’ve had two bikes resprung from my weight. Each time it was like riding a new bike and you CANNOT get that from a spring made for half of your weight. I found this video because I just picked up a 2018 300 xcw and will be ordering a spring set next Tuesday. After I can put all my gear on and get on a scale.
Thank you.
So being this was basically a "basic's" vid for mostly newer riders on suspension mistakes, the one thing I got out of it was that your web site has suspension spring rates!! Who knew. It was also an eye opener that you mentioned using the riders TOTAL weight with gear where other sites I've used (RT, etc) only mention riders weight and I always thought that was off. Even with progressive spring rates mentioned by others, it still feels too soft for me. I'll be going to your site right away and see what it says my rates should be for my ride level, TOTAL weight and types of terrain. Thanks again.
Hello:
It is a "basics" video but applies to all levels of riders. I see plenty of upper level riders with horrible suspension set-up.
Our website has anything and everything you could possibly need for a KTM, HQV, GasGas, including accurate spring rate charts. The RT calculator is a joke as are other calculators.
The purpose of springs is to support the combined weight of the bike and rider (including gear) and has little to do with rider skill level or types of terrain. If you are an advanced rider you might need stiffer valving but not stiffer springs than recommended on the charts.
Jeff really hitting the head on this topic. I also don’t ride other guys bikes or let anyone ride mine. When they do insist and I take a quick spin. I can’t give their bike back fast enough. Many suffer from moditis. If they had a stock bike they would be miles ahead. Guessing many never rode their bike when it was new. Immediately they tear it apart and get the suspension all tricked out. Bar risers and do dads that mimic the biker gang in Every Which Way but Loose. Don’t even start on tire selection and air pressure. I am just out to ride my bike and maximize my time. Good video Jeff.
Thank you.
Great video! Let’s add one to the list. Banjo tight chains have a negative affect on swing arm travel and balance while riding.
Excited for another suspension balance video. Your last one was excellent. I am a HUGE (old and half crippled) dude. I struggle getting the chassis balanced.
I'll try to provide helpful content in my upcoming suspension balance video BUT being a heavy duty guy makes little difference in getting a balanced set-up.
I had a 'professional' change my fork springs. On a whim I decided to check his work(always do that). I had to buy a huge breaker bar to loosen the triple clamp bolts. Stop over tightening everything, you'll be glad you did in the future.
Hello R:
I don't over-tighten anything.
@@slaverace1 Wasn't referring to anyone in particular.
Some very thought provoking stuff, thank you. One thing I don’t grasp well is REBOUND clicker adjustments., especially on the rear,( but both really). I can seem to settle on a good setting w/ my 21 KTM 300 xc-w. Stock components…
Steve:
What do you weigh without and with gear?
@@slaverace1 170lbs. in a bathing suit; full gear on a local 1/2 day ride = 210lbs and on a long distance all day ride up to 220lbs (full packs on back).
@@stevebaum Oh, I may have mis-spoke, Its a stock shock w/ a 66 progressive spring. ( I have a Slavens Mule Lucky Cartridge going on the front soon. )
Awesome advice! Im only 55 and thank you Jeff! Life is good!
You're welcome.
Wow what an excellent video thank you Jeff!!! So much useful information in this!
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your video's. Question: why the Blackjack front shocks? Suggestion: you should do a shop tour of your home shop there. Us gear heads would appreciate it
I’m with you on the 1/16 of an inch. I always crank it down so it feels just a tad stiff. Super sensative
He means 1/16 of a turn, not inch
69! Humbled at 65; still riding but not anywhere near your level and self-preservation a top priority🙂
Keep riding!!!
Looking forward to the video on sag!!
Great video again, Jeff. Thanks for passing on the knowledge!
Any time!
Man your seat looks comfy Jeff.. good useful info👍👍
It's the most comfortable seat there is for dirt bikes. slavensracing.com/shop/complete-comfort-seat-for-ktm-by-seat-concepts/
"The list goes on and on and on" :) that about sums it up!
Jeff another excellent and informative video! I think it’s awesome that you have been successful and have paired back your workdays for riding! Good for you sir!
Thanks 👍
Head bearings have no play, but steering feels really "loose" at 50mph plus. For example, If I am riding along and I initial a slight wobble (terrible idea) the steering feels like it might escalate in to a high speed wobble… BUT it doesn’t, it settles back to straight. Is this normal? My other bikes don’t seem to steer so freely at speed. This is a 2024 FE501s for the record. I bought new fork and shock spring from you guys as well as preload spacers, oil, 50mm fork tool. That all went great by the way, suspension feels very nice :). I am just a little sketched out about the steering at speed.
Hello Jamie:
Try tightening the steering head bolt a little more. Be sure to loosen ALL pinch bolts including the one by the steering stem.
I love learning from you Jeff. This is good info. Will tell my friends
Please do!
Love the videos, very informative. I have a ‘20 300XCW that I bought 2nd hand. Love the bike and have done several mods through you guys. One question I have is what would the characteristics be of having too lightweight of a rear shock spring be? While I have sag set properly I have always felt my bikes rear kicks me up over whoops instead of soaking them up. Maybe I have too light of a spring and have it compressed too much to set sag correctly. I’m ~190lbs and wear another 25-30lbs of gear.
Craig:
What spring rates are you using front and rear?
@@slaverace1 I never changed them since I bought it used so I assume they’re stock but I don’t know for sure. I feel like they’re too lightweight if anything, hence why I’m asking the question.
I fully rebuild my chassis bushings, seals, and bearings every 400-500 hours. Forks get a full rebuild every 200 hours. Shock every 300-400 hours. Top end refresh and simple head job on the ktm 4 strokes every 400-500 hours as well. Every 1000-1200 hours I will rebuild the crank, and new transmission bearings. The fuel pumps seem to last me around 500 hours with being serviced around every 100 hours. My "used" bikes very well maintained.
Now this has worked fine for me and what I use my bikes for but your mileage may vary.
Hello Dakota:
Thanks for your post but your service intervals are extremely long. I rebuild my forks and shocks at 50 hours and the oil is trashed.
@@slaverace1 yeah I do change the fluid every 50 hours in the forks. The fluid gets bad quick. But they don't see new bushings and seals until 200 hours. The rear shock I don't notice a decrease in preformance until about 300 hours. I used to rack up a ton of hours in a short time on my excf 450.
You're right I do let somethings go overdue the biggest one I shortened the interval on was the shock hiem joints and swingarm bearings and bushings.
My numbers are also based of dual sport use the 450 sees quite a bit of road.
Could you go into detail in the next sag video on the "preload" please. You said 5mm in front I believe, not sure how to come up with that measurement. And any more info pds on rear.
OK. Will do.
Suspension setup is #1 on my list. I can deal with a whole host of issues on a ride as long as I am happy with the suspension. I wont ride a bike with poor suspension.
Thank you Jeff.
Thanks a million, Jeff!!!👍👍
You're welcome.
You said, there isn’t any torque setting on the steering head bolt. Why does my service manual say 12nm then?
Hello Dave:
If you're a torque-a-holic, use the spec you found. Personally, I prefer to set it by feel, not a number.
Hi Jeff. Do you take into account the added weight of aftermarket bolt on parts when selecting a spring rate?
No.
Made me chuckle about spring rates how much do you weigh Jeff😁
Have you heard of Kreft Moto for suspension on a Husqvarna? I've got a TE300i and have used a lot of your components on it, i've absolutely loved you guys. curious about your recommendation on their suspension?
Hi Chuck, what’s the extra control lever under the clutch lever?
Hello:
My name is not Chuck.
ALL parts on my bike are listed below the video in the description. slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/
I noticed 2 handles on your clutch side of handlebars, is one a hand brake? Sorry getting back into riding after a back injury years ago and looking into setting up a soft suspension 300. Thanks
Yes, one is a Rekluse Left Hand Rear Brake kit, slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/
At what spring rate do you recommend getting re valved?
The stock valving leaves a lot to be desired for all spring rates. Greg at factorysuspensionworks.com does great work for a fair price.
About how many spring rates can you go up before you have to re-valve?
You can easily go up several sizes.
Thanks Jeff. One area that is not covered anywhere is what are the symptoms of a bad setup and what do I do to correct it. For example my bike understeers and climbs out of ruts. I always thought that was just my bad technique. Maybe I was not putting enough pressure on the outside foot peg. But maybe it is a bad setup. So how do I recognize that and how do I fix it? Do I go stiffer, softer, more or less?
Thane: Thanks for your response. I'll try to address your concerns in a future video.
Thanks Jeff - but I have to admit, I’d rather just buy your bike when you go to get the next one… sounds like the dream rig. What are you, 6’2” and around 210lbs? If so, you’ve already set it up for me…
Great vid, helped me a lot. Thanks for sharing!!
Glad it helped!
Good tips Jeff although it does give me pause that some of these things need mentioning 😂 It takes all types I guess.
My question is about lowering a 300 pds for a light shorter rider trail riding for fun, not doing big jumps nor hard enduro stuff. A couple inches would be awesome mainly for having to get a foot down in rutted, washed out, dips, and otherwise uneven terrain. The lost travel and ground clearance wouldn't be a concern.
I know I could send off the shock and forks to a trusted outfit and not be worried about the details. But I don't have the budget for that. Do you have any suggestions for componentry and procedures for a mechanic doing it myself? If that's too much for a quick comment answer, could you maybe please do a video on the topic?
Much obliged sir, good people! Cheers!
We have DIY lowering kits in stock and videos on how to install them.
slavensracing.com/shop/front-fork-lowering-inner-kit-for-wp-xplor-by-zeta/
slavensracing.com/shop/rear-suspension-lowering-kit-for-kyb-wp-showa-by-zeta/
@@slaverace1
This is awesome, thanks Jeff!
I see a fitment for my rear shock. 👍
These remind me of spacers a guy in Australia was machining I saw years ago, but he never responded and I couldn't find them elsewhere.
The forks however aren't listing a fitment for my *'15 300xc-w* that was pre-explor. I even checked the other fork lowering kits for kyb/showa just in case, no fitment listed there either. Am I missing something???
Thanks and cheers!
@@elgringoec
For your forks we have travel limiting spacers that go on the spindle and we have shorter springs. Please contact alec@slavensracing.com.
@@slaverace1
I will Jeff, thanks! I just need a few days to tend to other projects first but this is exciting, I'm gonna make this happen.
Meanwhile please let me ask you personally this about the springs: if I use just the spacers only with my stock springs, will it essentially just increase the preload? I have an ims 5.3gal tank putting more weight on the forks, currently have the preload adjustment at max, and my gut feeling like more wouldn't hurt. Or would the stock springs then touch coils and limit stroke at compression with the spacers and preload adjustment backed out to min?
Me with my gear and the extra fuel is below the max weight for the chart in the manual referencing rear spring rates (my manual doesn't mention front spring rate options, only rear). It doesn't feel like I need higher rate springs. It just feels like it's usually operating a little compressed in the stroke where the damping is greater. And I've tried opening the rebound valve fully but to no apparent avail. That's why I'm thinking more preload. I wish I had a way of measuring the parameters instead of going by feel. 😂☮️
Jeff, thank you for the videos you put out! I’m looking at both the Raven and blackjack cartridge kits for my 19 250sx. I currently have a pro action/pr2 hybrid now, but looking to do away with air completely. Is the blackjack insert worth the extra few hundred over the Raven and or why? The bike sees just as much moto as it does woods. Thanks!
what is the second lever on the clutch side?
Rekluse Left Hand Rear Brake. slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/
thanks jeff very informative. can you share some thoughts about fork height settings in one of your upcomnig videos? fork height changes on my 22 350 xcf-w made big differences. i run 2nd line from the top for high speed stuff, most trails here in wi are 2nd-4th gear
Ok, I'll add it to my long list.
I always put a little anti-seize on the pinch clamp bolt threads and shoulders to get the most accurate torque on them.
good idea? or over kill?
thanks for the video by the way!
Any lubricant will give a more accurate torque.
Thanks for sharing
You mentioned tire weight . . . thoughts on UHD Bridgestones or mousses in regards to suspension working harder? I'm a few months behind you in age riding / racing Southeastern US on locally tuned suspenders. Most people comment how soft it is. Too soft and it affects turning, too stiff and it feels like it's going to break loose (probably in my head). Always a compromise (XPLOR / DelSagio + stock / modified valving).
Hello C Bob: UHD tubes are extremely heavy and the gyroscopic effect of that weight seriously downgrades how the bike turns and how quickly it changes direction. It also drastically reduces suspension performance. UHD tubes are one of the worst things you can do to your bike. The current Nitro mousses are too heavy but Michelins are not too bad.
Envy you, I'm pushing 63 and want to retire from this factory job so I can concentrate on riding a lot more.
Hang in there!
Bought two used 2022 ktms and the owners had 35 psi in both tires. They had the clickers on forks 35 clicks out, similar numbers on all clickers way off.
No wonder they didn't have a good time riding and only put 4hrs on them.
Oh boy...lol....
Dangggg 😂
I have loose bearings on my '21 501s, 4k miles, I torqued to spec but it's still loose. I don't feel any notching. Tighten some more and make sure steering is not binding? Or replace? I had a fork issue due to my own mistake during springs install that was causing head bobbing until I fixed it. Maybe that shot my bearings?
I specifically said in the video to NOT use a torque wrench. Tighten it until the freeplay is gone then go riding.
Considering fork oil, should you stick to stock oil weight? Stock is 4w in my WP Xplor fork. Is it ok to change to 5w?
4wt Motorex or 5wt Maxima are fine to use.
Hey Jeff, awesome video as always! I wonder if you have any experience with Kreft Suspension's work? They seem to specialize in the KTM WP suspension, and I've heard good things about them from a few people. Thanks!
Hello: I personally know Adam Krefting. He's a good, honest, skilled guy but I don't think he works in the suspension shop much anymore. I've heard good and bad and it's not fair to judge his work off of others comments.
Greg at www.factorysuspensionworks.com does excellent work and I have used and tested his work. It is excellent in the rocks and roots.
@@slaverace1 thank you very much for the response! I really appreciate the info.
Really good and helpful video. I just want to confirm a beginner question. When people say that they have a bike with suspension for say 80kg (Europe) or 90kg and so on, is this weight including all the gear?
Should be with gear, ready to ride
@@videosbruno Thank you 👍
I see on your bench two intercomp spring rate checkers. Is one for fork springs? Also have you had experience with front fork springs going set (wearing out not holding rate) without the rate checker what is a good way to measure fork springs rate?
Hello:
Yes, one is for fork springs.
I've been in the MC industry for 50+ years, tested 1000s of springs and have yet to see a spring not hold the rate. Yes, they can settle a little but the rate remains true.
Regards,
JS
I just called you guys and told you my weight and then let you do the figures. I swear I told you my correct weight 😂!
On every bike, new or new to me, l grease everyting, check oil/air level in each fork, get right springs, get chain tension right and go from there. Never amazed by the lack of grease in a new bike!
Hello:
You're on the right track however the fork oil level on modern dirt bikes cannot be checked. Oil gets trapped between the inner and outer tubes and therefore you must refill and reset.
@@slaverace1 yes - completely agreed - l should have clarified that l changed fork oil - usually after an 1hr to clean it up. I forgot to add that here in a wet climate its good to ACF50 your electrical connections whilst its all apart. Cheers.
Great video 🏁🏁🏁.
What bars are you using
slavensracing.com/shop/acf-carbon-fiber-handlebars-by-protaper/
With the air forks, being a beginner at 190lbs without gear, I've found that I need the psi to be at around 120.
I ride mx though but if I go up to even 133psi, if I don't make it to the landing of the tabletop, the forks feel like they clank hard instead of being plush.
I have the clickers on fork and rear on comfort setting.
These are small tabletops and I'm not jumping high.
that pressure is way too low for your weight. Air forks are the most plush in the upper part of their stroke. you'll want your cold pressure in the 140-150psi range.
@@LocalGarage that's not what I've found. Tried on 2 different huskies, an 2017 and 2022. Both I tried comfort clicker settings at 148psi and on 133psi, same result.
Rode two ktms, 2019 125sx and 2022 150sx. They both felt plush and they were set at around 120psi and on comfort setting.
So yeah if i was faster I would need more air but I've felt uncomfortable on the bikes for past 6 months and it's bc suspension was too stiff. Now I'm riding much better and faster.
On my 2021 250 xc TPI I run the stock forks at 141 cold and 12 clicks out comp. Stiffer rebound too but can’t remember number. I’m 10 pounds lighter than you. When riding sandy areas I turn the comp in to about 7 out. Extremely rocky rides I will spin the comp clicker to about 25 clicks out. My revalved rear shock rides a little higher in the stroke putting a little more pressure on the front than stock requiring 2 pounds more in the fork compared to 139 with stock shock.
@@riders.oregon4474 so your riding woods? What happens when you go out closer to 17 clicks on compression on fork and lower psi? If you have ever tried it that is.
My friend rode all the same bikes I discussed and he is 230lbs. Said he couldn't ride the huskies bc they were too stiff.
Maybe yall should try lowering psi or your just much faster and not going over big obstacles.
Thanks Jeff
You're welcome.
Hi Jeff, My KTM manual says that when retightening the upper triple clamp "use a plastic hammer and tap lightly on the upper triple clamp to avoid stresses". It doesn't really come across clearly to me what they mean, or when and where to tap. I wondered if you know anything about it?
Thanks for all the great videos you post, always interesting and informative.
Hello: I have not seen that in a manual. I suppose they are implying that the clamp will stick on the tubes since the tightening is being done in the center of the top clamp. Wouldn't hurt to tap on the outside edges of the clamp when you tighten the middle.
@@slaverace1 Hi Jeff, thanks for getting back to me. In the manual it says it only applies to specific models, my bike is the KTM 350 EXC F Factory Edition (Euro model), which may be why you hadn’t come across it. Thanks again, and i’ll take your advice when I adjust them next.
What seatconceps seat are you running?
Tall comfort, not XL. slavensracing.com/shop/complete-comfort-seat-for-ktm-by-seat-concepts/
What rear tire is that?
slavensracing.com/shop/irc-jx8-gekkota-gummy-rear-tire/
Wright on🏁🏁🏁🏁👍
This applies to more than dirt bikes. Any racing vehicle, really.
Jeff how do you like that Rekluse LHRB? On my Alta MXR I run a Brembo master cylinder lrhb and it's simply amazing. Requires practically no one finger pressure to make that rear tire skid. On my 350 XC-F though I run the Ox-Brake Hydra Pro. I can lock up the rear wheel with it but it requires a lot more pressure, and over time it can really be tiring on the hand when racing at race pace speeds. I have read a lot of reviews and opinions about the Rekluse lhrb that are negative and it has always shied me away from getting one. Especially the bleeding process and the fact that people say it constantly needs to be re-bled. What are your thoughts?
I’ve had my Rekluse LHRB since 2019, never lost pressure. Tried the hydraulic OX brake and it lost pressure within weeks of the install and again after that.
@@salsarosdave what is the stopping power like compared to the Ox?
@@JoshStreetDesign about the same from what I remember
@@salsarosdave oh man then there's no reason to switch it them...
The latest Rekluse LHRB slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/ is excellent! It has great stopping power, does not require excessive lever pressure and has excellent modulation. The bleeding is straight forward if you READ the instructions and watch the video. If bled correctly the first time, it never needs re-bled unless you are changing the fluid. The negative reviews I've seen have all been from guys that don't read the installation instructions. Some guys need to lock their toolbox and throw away the keys.
That bike doesn't even look like it's been ridden.
I try to keep my bikes in top shape but I do ride almost every week.
is there not a barber shop in Co Springs!?! get a hair cut =0)
They all closed. Haven't you heard? Everyone in Colorado just sits around smoking weed, no time for haircuts. Ha!
Need to invest in a better mic this video was horrid to listen to.
I use Apple Air Pods which work very well and the video is very loud on all of our computers. You are the only one that has mentioned and issue so maybe something on your end needs turned up.
@@slaverace1 I can hear it just fine it's the quality.