I know this is old but Well done on your first engine. My first was a Prelude B20A. They are a rare, very lazy big old motor that made as much torque as they did Horsepower. I changed out the B20A rods for F22B rods which were stronger and USDM pistons which had lower compression than the JDM counterparts. It made just shy of 400HP on a self built Megasquirt 1 using evo 3 coilplacks and staged injection (Honda STD primaries and evo 3 as secondaries). It was an absolute weapon but every single thing apart from cam gears had to be custom made and it would regularly blow head gaskets as they were carbon (before Honda changed them to MLS) and Cometic replacements at the time were not available, in the end I changed it to a modern B series and the Prelude now sits in our storage depot in Japan, waiting for me to build it up and let it rip once again.
@TURBOTRISTO as budget allows, right now we are in Cairns, our place in Japan is on the backburner for when we get closer to retirement. I have a little EK1 hatch I'm waiting to take delivery on here in the meantime, it's a sad little automatic but it's untouched and I might kick off the channel using that one, build it up like your then start on the Prelude next year..
I know I’m late to the party on this video, but at 23:00 I watching and hoping you’d try spinning the crank before torquing the bolts on the girdle! I know a lot of people have needed to notch that part as well. Awesome content as usual though. The mistakes are what make us learn and improve!
Exactly what I have been looking for. Have watched a few d16 build videos and yours is up there with one of my favorites. Definitely going to be coming back to this as a reference when I do mine!
@@TURBOTRISTO ahh man work, life and money are getting in the way! Still gathering my parts but within a month I'll have some VTEC. I got some sweet eye candy to make er look pretty when it's done. Thanks for checking in man! Cheers
love the series mate did notice a problem putting main bearings back in you lubed the face of the block then put bearings in u need to keep the the face clean. I would highly recommend pulling out and cleaning the back side of those bearings and block i love the vids tho and well done on giving it a go. :) BTW love the zip tie trick hahaha
Yeah I pulled them Out and re did them I explained it in a later video I was pulled up pretty fast on that one haha thanks for looking. Out though I appreciate it and thanks for the support
Hats off to you for your first build! Liked the bush mechanic technique for compressing the springs. Noticed the missus swinging by in the time lapse.. guessing you got an ear full for working so late lol
P2P vitara spec means the rod length center to center measures at 138.633mm as opposed to the factory conrod length 137.00mm. These p2p rods bump the compression using vitara pistons because they push the pistons up closer to the deck vs using a stock rod length with vitara pistons you would have a very low comp ratio. The compression height or crown height of the pistons is the reason why the aftermarket made a adjustment to the length of the conrods.
sorry for picking your brain on older vid did your p2p0 rod bolts come with washers for arp bolts the instructions say to use washers however definitely didnt come with them and i havent seen others with our rods use washers lastly you remember what you torqued the rod bolts too for checking oil clearence it says 55lbs stretched
A late comment but a question or two :) - torque spec of rod bolts - torque spec of main cap bolts - torque spec of girdle - desirable clearances for rods and main caps using the gauge plastic - with the clearance measurement, did you lube and torque everything up and then undo all of it to find the gaps? Would that over-stretch any bolts?
I did all the torque specs as recommended by the manufacturer of the items I used, I did plasti gauge everything to make sure they were all the same tolerances , where factory parts were re used I followed factory toque specs
@@TURBOTRISTO ok so with the plasti gauge it was more to see that everything was even rather to a specific clearance measurement? And I'm guessing you had to torqud everything to get accurate plastigauge readings?
@@TURBOTRISTOOk, so, if I improve the flow, port match, clean the ports if needed and add a less restrictive exhaust, should I see an improvement in the economy along with a handful (I'm expecting 5-10) more power?
@TURBOTRISTO hey mate I hear alot about the head lifting from timing, I'm building my Y4 at the moment and don't want to deal with that happening. How do you know when to stop adding timing? Usually you go until knock and take out a few degrees, how do you know what will make the head lift? Cheers!!
noticed that too! altaugh i also made that mistake a few years ago with my own build, for me it didn't gave any problems with spinning bearings.( lucky enough ) ran that for almost 2 years with a lot of abuse untill my oilpump diceded he had enough. ( reused it after rodknock ) it seemed fine, but at the end it still F*cked the engine. i'll guess it also has to do with luck.
Gotta say man i watch this video in particular alot. im trying to build my d15b7 with a y8 head so a mini me here in the us. And im gonna out it together myself building it to hold 500 gonna run 300-400 or u til the headlifts. Plus uts calming and its a good watch before bed. Preciate it
Truthfully it's quite relaxing so I do fall asleep sometimes but for the most part I finish the video Im praying that I won't have any problems and since it'll be my first I just watch alot of build videos but yours is the best @@TURBOTRISTO
@@nathanlevander1867 it’s a miss matched set because you will need an under and an over sized kit so when you are checking clearances you can swap out bits and peices and mix and match until you get all the clearances correct
Yeah man it’s moved on to a new home now, the thing that stuffed up was the it lifted the head, and that is a common D series thing from adding too much timing , not an issue with the backyard build on the motor
I know this is old but Well done on your first engine. My first was a Prelude B20A. They are a rare, very lazy big old motor that made as much torque as they did Horsepower. I changed out the B20A rods for F22B rods which were stronger and USDM pistons which had lower compression than the JDM counterparts. It made just shy of 400HP on a self built Megasquirt 1 using evo 3 coilplacks and staged injection (Honda STD primaries and evo 3 as secondaries). It was an absolute weapon but every single thing apart from cam gears had to be custom made and it would regularly blow head gaskets as they were carbon (before Honda changed them to MLS) and Cometic replacements at the time were not available, in the end I changed it to a modern B series and the Prelude now sits in our storage depot in Japan, waiting for me to build it up and let it rip once again.
@@Mike-ry4ti you should do it!
@TURBOTRISTO as budget allows, right now we are in Cairns, our place in Japan is on the backburner for when we get closer to retirement. I have a little EK1 hatch I'm waiting to take delivery on here in the meantime, it's a sad little automatic but it's untouched and I might kick off the channel using that one, build it up like your then start on the Prelude next year..
I know I’m late to the party on this video, but at 23:00 I watching and hoping you’d try spinning the crank before torquing the bolts on the girdle! I know a lot of people have needed to notch that part as well. Awesome content as usual though. The mistakes are what make us learn and improve!
So true man so so true
Thanks tristan im building my d16y8 right now and this video helps a ton i am running the p2p0 rods ycp pistons 75.5 fresh bore hone and deck
Nice man upgrade to the biggest srt4 head studs now and don’t run any extra timing, mine lifted the head several times before I gave up and went kswap
It’s so relax to watch building☺️
Next b and k series build pls 😚
They will happen soon my man
Exactly what I have been looking for. Have watched a few d16 build videos and yours is up there with one of my favorites. Definitely going to be coming back to this as a reference when I do mine!
Thanks man hopefully you have subscribed heaps more to come
How did you go with your build bro
@@TURBOTRISTO ahh man work, life and money are getting in the way! Still gathering my parts but within a month I'll have some VTEC. I got some sweet eye candy to make er look pretty when it's done.
Thanks for checking in man! Cheers
@@amek2066 no worries man
4:25am and cant sleep...... and there is a new vid on a D16👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Arthell Strobles thanks man please subscribe to my channel
9:57 🤔 nice comparison 🤣🤣
Thanks haha
Awesome Ep, love the guest star 🐈. Keep up the awesome work!!
Stuart Howitt haha yeah I didn’t even notice her til I was editing
Stuart Howitt what did you think about the overall engine making, sketchy AF?
Congrats on the build Tristan! Look forward to the start up! 👌
Look Inward thanks brother same here
love the series mate did notice a problem putting main bearings back in you lubed the face of the block then put bearings in u need to keep the the face clean. I would highly recommend pulling out and cleaning the back side of those bearings and block i love the vids tho and well done on giving it a go. :) BTW love the zip tie trick hahaha
Yeah I pulled them
Out and re did them I explained it in a later video I was pulled up pretty fast on that one haha thanks for looking. Out though I appreciate it and thanks for the support
Sorry the camera was grubby and lighting wasn’t the best I was focusing on not screwing up the motor build
Hats off to you for your first build! Liked the bush mechanic technique for compressing the springs. Noticed the missus swinging by in the time lapse.. guessing you got an ear full for working so late lol
Fokir Alomgir haha nah she was bringing me coffee, she’s a good one, thanks for the on going support it really drives me
@@TURBOTRISTO good on ya
Fokir Alomgir thanks mate
Nice work man. Love your channel!
Thanks bro it’s about to go nuts stay tuned because huge things happening in 3 weeks I got another civic and about 50 mods going on it
P2P vitara spec means the rod length center to center measures at 138.633mm as opposed to the factory conrod length 137.00mm. These p2p rods bump the compression using vitara pistons because they push the pistons up closer to the deck vs using a stock rod length with vitara pistons you would have a very low comp ratio.
The compression height or crown height of the pistons is the reason why the aftermarket made a adjustment to the length of the conrods.
Nice brother that is some great information
Nice build mate, I am doing the same very soon....keen to see what power it pushes when built
Me either!! Thanks for the support, please subscribe as I’m pulling the old motor this week
Hi mate, it’s impossible to find parts that say they fit the d16y4, with the bc valve springs did you order for d16y7?
Y4 and y8 parts are the same
Congrats on the build! Excited to see how this turns out. Looks like the Camry is going down in the rematch
😂
Cody camry will get smoked now
Is this a d16z6?? Great job btw for first time building a motor. You made it look super easy
this one was a d16y4, it is actually very easy i have since built 4 engines and a transfer case, thanks for watching
Wonderful video thank so much help me a lots
Amazing info and build thnx
Music ? 20:33
music is all from the youtube studio
Your collets are called keepers in the states.
Really haha
Did you lap the valves or just leave everything as is just changing thr springs retainers and valve seals?
@@jmillzthepimp27 all the above
When you said a bee's dick i lost it 😂
Great vid.
Greetings from Charleston SC usa
Haha thanks man please subscribe if you haven’t, 🇦🇺❤️
sorry for picking your brain on older vid did your p2p0 rod bolts come with washers for arp bolts the instructions say to use washers however definitely didnt come with them and i havent seen others with our rods use washers lastly you remember what you torqued the rod bolts too for checking oil clearence it says 55lbs stretched
@@jmillzthepimp27 there’s only washers on the headstuds it’s probably universal instructions
@@jmillzthepimp27 I don’t remember the torque what ever the instructions said
A late comment but a question or two :)
- torque spec of rod bolts
- torque spec of main cap bolts
- torque spec of girdle
- desirable clearances for rods and main caps using the gauge plastic
- with the clearance measurement, did you lube and torque everything up and then undo all of it to find the gaps? Would that over-stretch any bolts?
I did all the torque specs as recommended by the manufacturer of the items I used, I did plasti gauge everything to make sure they were all the same tolerances , where factory parts were re used I followed factory toque specs
@@TURBOTRISTO ok so with the plasti gauge it was more to see that everything was even rather to a specific clearance measurement? And I'm guessing you had to torqud everything to get accurate plastigauge readings?
@@moseseggmolesse7979 yes correct
@@TURBOTRISTO alright sweet, thanks 😁
I’m a fan bro 🤘😊
Cheers man
what rods are you running the no notch rods are worth a whole turbo kit for my civic is there another alternative?
P2P0 are what I used if you want good ones hit up maxpeeding they are actually best known for rods
HI,
what compression ratio you get? 7.8:1 or higher with this vitaras?
What's the height of the rod?
180psi across all cylinders
Should be 8:8:1 with those rods and pistons
So, I have a D16 with i-VTEC.. Is it the same thing as regular VTEC, just less aggressive?
@@simtalkayak it’s for economy
@@TURBOTRISTOOk, so, if I improve the flow, port match, clean the ports if needed and add a less restrictive exhaust, should I see an improvement in the economy along with a handful (I'm expecting 5-10) more power?
Got up early before work to watch this 🤙🏿
Benn Russ thanks heaps Ben!!! What did you think ? It was a bit rough but I got there in the end haha
TURBOTRISTAN nah was great I feel like I could do this now😅 really good work you explain things well
Benn Russ it’s honestly not hard now I’ve done it once was daunting though
TURBOTRISTAN yeah if I didn’t come across you Chanel I would have bought my civic last night to be honest gets me pumped to start working
Benn Russ quite simple cars great to learn on or to mess around with heaps of parts available
16:11 heuheu thrust
Slot1Gamer whaaaat?
He's a genius
Haha not at all
oh yeah you forgot to notch the gertle too lol shiiii
dw i notched it, check out my newer videos of me running and driving the car with this engine in it :) thanks for watching bro
please are the pistond 75 or 75.5 mm . thank you.
75
@@TURBOTRISTO thanks a lot was there any piston slap or a problem like that
What gaps are the piston rings
0.19 & 0.21
How well did this unit hold up.
It was fine until we pumped some timing into it and then the head lifted which is common on d series, bottom end and all that was perfect
@TURBOTRISTO hey mate I hear alot about the head lifting from timing, I'm building my Y4 at the moment and don't want to deal with that happening. How do you know when to stop adding timing? Usually you go until knock and take out a few degrees, how do you know what will make the head lift? Cheers!!
@joshjosh7748 the rule is pretty much keep timing at stock settings and add more boost
@TURBOTRISTO stock timing as in when you create a haltech basemap? If so that's great I'll be able to tune it myself
@joshjosh7748 yeah
what is the price of forged pistons and connecting rods
It used to be 900 for a whole kit now it’s nearly double, not worth it do a k swap
@@TURBOTRISTO nice tnx man i want be first in turbo bild d series in my cantry
uhhh far as im aware you dont put lube under the bearings? hopefully that didnt fk up on you. i could be wrong though?
you were right i fixed it up,
noticed that too! altaugh i also made that mistake a few years ago with my own build, for me it didn't gave any problems with spinning bearings.( lucky enough ) ran that for almost 2 years with a lot of abuse untill my oilpump diceded he had enough. ( reused it after rodknock ) it seemed fine, but at the end it still F*cked the engine. i'll guess it also has to do with luck.
I’m at it now :)
Yes boi
Gotta say man i watch this video in particular alot. im trying to build my d15b7 with a y8 head so a mini me here in the us. And im gonna out it together myself building it to hold 500 gonna run 300-400 or u til the headlifts. Plus uts calming and its a good watch before bed. Preciate it
Is it a good watch before bed because it puts you to sleep hahaha?
Truthfully it's quite relaxing so I do fall asleep sometimes but for the most part I finish the video Im praying that I won't have any problems and since it'll be my first I just watch alot of build videos but yours is the best @@TURBOTRISTO
What size o piston did u use
Vitara
@@TURBOTRISTO was it stock size piston
yep 75mm
ACL bearings ?
Not oem ?
Cheaper plus easier to find and I was able to chose the size and clearance , I still have a full set of tight clearance bearings at home
Nice !! They should work in any d16?
I have the mains not rods obvs
I’ll be happy to buy off you if I can man ?
@@nathanlevander1867 it’s a miss matched set because you will need an under and an over sized kit so when you are checking clearances you can swap out bits and peices and mix and match until you get all the clearances correct
@@TURBOTRISTO awesome man !
Does it still run?
Yeah man it’s moved on to a new home now, the thing that stuffed up was the it lifted the head, and that is a common D series thing from adding too much timing , not an issue with the backyard build on the motor
So much for the no-notch rods.
Yeah exactly
A bees dk lol
Habla demasiado 🤦
No comprende
Wait your suppose to lubricate the back of the bearing where it doesn’t make contact with the crankshaft???
I saw the comments and I pulled it apart and fixed it watch the next vid, also I have spoken to mechanics and they said it doesn’t matter
a musical instrument
Hahaha