Ah yes, I remember looking at that model (from TwoTrees) before buying the Tronxy. They seem a nice machine in many ways, linear rails and a strong-looking frame. I reckon you should be able to get good results. The standard hotend looks horribly cheap. I think some versions have the Z screws linked by a belt, and some don’t. Seems best to link them. If it’s still using a remote extruder/Bowden tube then I reckon start with the direct extruder (like the NF Sunrise), I think that makes printing a lot more reliable (gets rid of all the stringing and gaps or blobs, clogging, etc.) Then tackle the mechanicals - belts tensioned and idlers running smoothly, that sort of thing - and finally run it with Klipper. Gives better results for the same hardware, as the print moves are all calculated pre-emptively (it looks ahead) - can use input shaper tuning to cancel out resonances.
as you said, because it's a flawed printer. People who don't like to tinker don't buy a printer that needs tinkering, and people who like to tinker buy a printer that works first of all, and then tinker with it
@@HitLuca94 you’re right. I think everyone should own a Prusa as their first machine (Mk3 or the latest-and-greatest Mk4) - or maybe even the Bambu Lab machines - yes, they are expensive to buy, but they work, and they give you a baseline experience and the ability to print parts which you can then use to modify some other flawed, cheaper printer like the Tronxy. To put it another way, everyone needs a small (reliable) printer before they take on a large (unreliable) printer :) My Tronxy in the end has printed parts the others cannot. It’s been worth it, but it would never have worked as my only machine. It also printed all the parts for my Voron 2.4, which has proved to be a fine replacement for the Tronxy but again, could never have worked unless I’d had another working printer first.
i have had my x5sa pro about 3 weeks now. getting the z axis to remain the same at the start was a pain then i did the belt on the z axis and the backlash nuts. which has helped a lot as the z will not drop at all now when sitting idle. it has tronxy version of marlin on it but it ain't right prints are good but do a auto level even with the bed and hot end heated or just one or even not at all. it will do it but redo it again and not adjust anything and it will give a different result. i just do a z offset and manual level then print. going to build up a VzBot from scratch then convert the x5sa after. and yes watch that great film of Burt and i think his records still stand to this day.
Ahoi Alex, your video gave me the last push, just bought a X5SA Pro kit for 320€ 🙂. They come with the glas plate per default now. I bought a Prusa Mini Clone kit from FYSETC previously, at the time you had to wait 3 month for a Mini from Prusa himself, turns out the kit is very high quality and really cheap (200€ with shipping, 3D printed parts ordered in Spain for 40€). I bought a second kit, to faster iterate on my models (parts for vintage computers mainly). Every once in a while i feel the urge to print something larger, but didn't want to go Voron 2.4 because of costs. That is when i saw your video. I'm not doing all your upgrades, just direct extruder, some bracing of the frame, Z synchronization and a frame. I plan to do mine on wheels, since i don't have a basement, everything has to happen in the living room or kitchen ;-). Would love another update on your rail, or other experiences you had. Cheers😊
Very good! The only thing I would suggest beyond what I showed in the video is to consider a newer hotend design - the OMG H2 looks clever because it can bolt onto the same mounting holes, but you do need an extruder as well, so the NF Sunrise might still be the neater solution. The Tronxy rails are still working fine and I think without spending lots of extra money, your setup will get you good quality for large prints up to a speed of about 100mm/s. The frame bracing aluminium corners are the most effective, also consider doubling up the vertical rod bearings as I have (it is cheap and easy) as it stops the bed from wobbling. My next move is going to be a VZ-bot build, I just haven’t got around to it yet. There are many parts to order - lightweight rails (if you want smooth movement they are expensive), new controller board, better stepper drivers, so when you look at the double-cost to go that little bit faster, I think you will find that the standard X5sa Pro with the three modifications I said in the video - NF Sunrise, sync belt, and Klipper - will be a good-value setup for you. Running Klipper and Mainsail makes a big difference to the usability of the printer, it makes it just like a Voron to control. I really recommend that. You don’t have to use a touchscreen, you can control it through the Web interface from a tablet or phone (it seems odd at first to have a printer with no control panel, but it does work). I have a Voron 2.4 as well as my Tronxy. You can never have too many printers. The Voron is good but it is not really any faster than the Tronxy nor any better print quality, because the moving parts are heavy. It’s only advantage is that the first layer levelling is a bit more reliable with the quad gantry setup and heavy, flat buildplate (but again, more expensive as you know). I am running a Rapido hotend in the Voron which heats fast and is easy to change the nozzle on. But I think the most important is to use good-quality plated nozzles, like you can get from the Mellow Store (AliExpress) where you find the NF Sunrise. Consider that with a large printer you are probably optimising for prints with a 0.6 nozzle (strength and speed) - PETG or ABS, enclosing the printer is necessary, but part cooling is not as important - for detailed small prints, you have your Prusa-Mini clone. Thanks for your comments :)
Well, seems i was unlucky and lucky at the same time. The seller sent me a X5SA-400 Pro instead of the X5SA Pro i ordered. I already constructed a nice table with wheels, bought and cut plastic glass sheets, so this larger one should go back, but the seller is making it complicated. I may have to use Ebay to get this fixed. At the same time i saw the X5SA Pro at Amazon for 250€, comes with the Z synchronization kit too. Bought it, should be here soon. I may end up with a spare X5SA-400 Pro if Ebay decides it so, but in that case i figure i can sell it myself, got it for 320€. 😅 Since there isn't much to do right now i keep printing flexi rexis for christmas on the Prusa Mini clone and read up on Klipper, extruders and hotends.
@@citronski I think you’re making the right choice. Giant printers are a nuisance in three ways; the expense of the print surface (and heating a large bed), the lack of frame stiffness, and the space they take up in your workroom, garage, etc. I hope you manage to return it, if it was not as described - it shouldn’t be up to you to resell it
@@alexshepherd The seller was uncooperative, i went to Ebay for help. Ebay decided to just give me my money back. When i asked what to do with the wrong printer, they suggested to throw it away! So now i have two, a X5SA-400 Pro and a X5SA Pro, for 250€! I'll keep the 400 for a few weeks, in case the seller wants it back, but after that I'm selling it. 😅 What a muppet that seller was! So i built the X5SA Pro, no problems so far, if you have built a printer before it's easy. I think even a newbie could do it. Printed a benchy, it's acceptable, far from what i get on a Prusa Mini clone, like what i got from the Ender 3 back in the day. The long bowden tube is a real problem. Klipper is next on the agenda. I have decided to go for a Volcano clone hotend and a Mellow Sherpa Mini direct extruder, both are ordered, as well as a bunch of nozzles and different heatbreaks. That's it from me for now, Cheers. 😄
Great to see your getting a reliable 100mm/s+ out of the machine. Is anyone with a modified Tronxy X5sa Pro getting reliable speeds nearer 200mm/s thought? I'm looking for a CoreXY specifically to print lots of parts with a build volume near to 400x400x400mm. Potentially I could buy three X5sa and all the upgrade parts for the price of one Voron/RatRig
I think you’re better off going down the Voron path which will get you to 200mm/s easily in a 350x350x350 size, but otherwise you need to build a VZ-bot. There is now a kit for the VZ-bot - approx. US$1250. I suspect the only way to get 400x400x400 will be to start with a regular Tronxy X5sa 400 (non-Pro version without the metal wheels) and fit linear rails, VZ-bot parts, new control board, Klipper etc. The modifications I’ve shown here will only get you to about 150mm/s max. Good luck with your build :)
Going down the voron path... go Vzbot. It started as a modified x5sa... it's the fastest printer on the planet of its size. And yes, I get well over 200mms on several modified x5sa. Go linear rails, simple hotend, move the z rods apart as fast as you can, and move them in to the frame a little so you can enclose the frame easy. Also I've got 350x350x420, in the standard x5sa frame. My highly modified x5sa gets 20k acceleration and 1000mms travel speeds. I can print up to 40mms³/s throughout on my hotend, at whatever speed I like. 100. Not a vz, but my own design. Of course with a highly tuned slicer profile.
Hey could you help me out, i followed your route with my tronxy x5sa pro and got the nfsunrise extruder installed, however i am haveing issues with part cooling, I printed a similar fanduct as you have however there are clearance issues with it hitting the x rail top plates. Can you post a link for the fan duct you used?
Hello - I remember the fan only just clearing the Y-axis carriage, I think my favourite was the Prusa-style fan mount/duct that you can get from here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5150173
Cheers, I appreciate it :) I have no need to push for ‘likes’ and ‘subscribes’, will never have enough views or followers for UA-cam to care. All I like to know is that someone, somewhere might get better results out of their Tronxy :) In original form they’re not really much good, but with the three main modifications shown here (the sync belt, the direct-feed extruder, and Klipper firmware) they work much better. Then, an enclosure makes it possible to print in ABS (or large prints in PETG) without warping, and suddenly it’s a useful machine!
i dont know when you made this video but i love your set up i have the v6 board and i cant get klipper on it for nothing would be great if you could make a video of how you did all this
Thanks. I don’t have time to make a video about the Klipper install, but I suggest you do a basic setup of the Raspberry Pi OS (Lite, without desktop) and then use KIAUH (the Klipper Installation And Update Helper); just go to the KIAUH page on your PC, then copy and paste the supplied commands into a PuTTY terminal window that’s logged in to your Raspberry Pi. From KIAUH, you can then install Klipper and Mainsail (or Fluidd if you prefer) really easily. For setting up the printer, see gist.github.com/cab404/b7bcbb0cd592a14515493694719de59b
Hello - I’m using Gates-branded 2GT belts; I think they are genuine. Good-quality belts are flexible enough to wrap around 20mm pulleys without creating a load of friction, while also having the teeth surfaces treated with a fabric (in this case a brown material) to improve their wear resistance. Make sure to order enough length! a.aliexpress.com/_m02BG1O
Thanks - yes that’s fair I suppose, it’s the equivalent of a Prusa or Voron setup, with about 20mm of Teflon tube between the filament feeder and the top of the heatbreak. It would be hard to get it any closer
That was the Tronxy TR sensor (black), which came with the coated glass bed. It was a capacitive type (detects anything). The blue sensor that came with the printer was an inductive type (detects aluminium, not glass). I’ve built a VZBot now - I just use a Z-stop microswitch on the frame and level the bed manually. No probe at all :)
@@alexshepherd as a mainly PETG user there is real no good solution for this stuff haha, cannot use PEI, glass you have to use gluestick or hairspray and other bed materials either grip way too little or are far too expensive, maybe i will have to get one and see if it works with my glass bed.
I looked up the photos on the scales for you - 112g off the X rail, 16g off each of the three carriages (one X and two Y) so about 160g saved all-up by drilling holes
Direct extruder motor, with original hotend, bracket and fan was 377g, NF Sunrise with fans is 258g (so another 119g saved by changing to the NF Sunrise)
Thank you, wanted to share what’s worked for me :) designs for the parts I used are www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240585 and from there you can browse my other items, not sure what you mean by ‘loops’ sorry!
@@alexshepherd Alex, thanks for the link, I meant door hinges on the leaves, this is the sixth photo on the list. Probably do it yourself, but if there is a ready-made solution, I will be grateful to you. Shake your hand.
Pretty well - Klipper shows a Heightmap where you can see the shape it’s seen. If it’s a saddle-shape, check that the top frame sides aren’t over tightened down onto the smooth rods - that will bow the frame sides and make the bed levelling think the middle of the bed is ‘high’. Add washers to take up the gap between the smooth rods and the top frame. Pre-warm the printer for half an hour before probing the bed. Adjust the bed manually to get it as flat as possible on the visualisation. Check the vertical scale - 0.15mm variance is OK, the auto-levelling will take care of that, and shouldn’t need re-probing before each print
You’re very kind; it’s hard to make a good video in one take when there is no editing possible :) I think the maximum practical acceleration is similar to the Voron 2.4, about 5000m/s^3
- Tronxy lattice glass and TR sensor - Gates belts - Additional LM8UU bearings for Z rods - Tronxy Z-sync belt kit with pulleys - Mellow NF Sunrise, extension wiring for extruder motor - 5015 fan, also replacement 4010 fan for the controller box (use ball bearing fans) - Raspberry Pi 3B+ back when they cost NZ$80, 7” HDMI display - several sheets of ‘twinwall’ polycarbonate (sold as verandah roofing) - various printed parts and brackets to relocate spool holder etc. which are listed on my Thingiverse page www.thingiverse.com/alexgsofnz/designs That’s about all I can think of right now
Wow! Thats exactly how far i want to be with my Standard X5SA-400 (not pro, with v-Slot rollers). But with klipper i will wait. The original Chituh Software is realy easy and also good to Customizing in the Config. But one question: are you happy with the OCR-Rails from tronxy? Worth the Upgrade and are the better than MGN12H Rails?
Hello Marcus, thank you for your comments! I feel that you will definitely get better results with Klipper, especially with input shaping and pressure advance. But anyway, I would suggest the MGN12H rails for you as they are probably lighter than Tronxy’s rails. I will say, though, that the worst linear rails are sometimes gritty, where the Tronxy rails are relatively smooth. Anyway, I will be rebuilding mine with Hiwin rails (the best type). I hope you get nice results from your large 400-size machine!
There’s only one? It’s running on a Pi Zero 2W The interface is Mainsail and Klipperscreen I recommend KIAUH - the Klipper Installation And Update Helper. Go to the website, copy the command into a PuTTY terminal window (that’s logged into your Pi) and it’s pretty easy from there. The printer-specific config details can then be searched for and found (e.g. search for Tronxy X5sa Klipper)
Hello, I can’t reply with a photo here, but facebook.com/groups/169728600253557/permalink/1057215468171528/ - I used a step drill, holes are several sizes with the larger holes on the back. Weight of the X carriage rail went from 591g to 480g, total weight saving 19g off X moving mass and 162g off Y moving mass. You would save more weight by changing the design to use linear rails, but it is a wait for them to arrive :)
@@alexshepherd yeah, i planned to change into extrusion and linear rail instead. But it need to wait cause i want to change my extruder to nf sunrise first, then change my board to btt octopus, and after that i change my xy movement to linear rail.
You convinced me to build a voron 2.4 instead. Don't get me wrong, your work is impressive but I had a anycubic chiron on which I spent months working. I would sort one snag and get another shortly. So.... No. Better go for what is considered the best.
Fair enough, I’ve actually just finished building my own Voron 2.4. It’s much neater, works generally better… but of course, it was more expensive to buy :) consider the Trident too
do you or anyone else have a super slicer profile, RTG, I've lost a fully dialled in machine, due to computer virus/hacker, and i've since nuked the drive... irrelevant to you guys but explains why I'm asking. i have klipper, direct drive, range of nozzles, but if someone has a solid base for a leg up, i will dial it back further more and reshare it. took me over 300hrs to build my last profile, managed to make a crystal dragon at full scale to bed at 130mm/ps wit just the cooling fan running and no duct, variable heights from 0.01-.2 variance, came out immaculate, full print settings lost due a profile loss has absolutly gutted me
I’m sorry, I’ve only just started using Superslicer with my Voron 2.4, haven’t tried setting up the Tronxy yet. I reckon, though, that as long as your printer.cfg is safe and correct (in Klipper, in the Pi), the slicer settings won’t take you long to get right. Set retraction to 1mm and 40mm/s first… then set all the speeds to 80mm/s, and work your way from there - I don’t reckon it will take you 300hrs to get it working this time around, as you’ll remember what works and what doesn’t :) but I do sympathise, it’s very unsettling when all those carefully-refined settings are gone!
Seeing these kind of videos of modified printers is inspiring me to continue working on my Sapphire Plus but man does it need a lot of work.
Ah yes, I remember looking at that model (from TwoTrees) before buying the Tronxy. They seem a nice machine in many ways, linear rails and a strong-looking frame. I reckon you should be able to get good results.
The standard hotend looks horribly cheap. I think some versions have the Z screws linked by a belt, and some don’t. Seems best to link them.
If it’s still using a remote extruder/Bowden tube then I reckon start with the direct extruder (like the NF Sunrise), I think that makes printing a lot more reliable (gets rid of all the stringing and gaps or blobs, clogging, etc.)
Then tackle the mechanicals - belts tensioned and idlers running smoothly, that sort of thing - and finally run it with Klipper. Gives better results for the same hardware, as the print moves are all calculated pre-emptively (it looks ahead) - can use input shaper tuning to cancel out resonances.
Why isn't there more video's about the Tronxy X5SA Pro being uploaded. It's a flawed printer but ,after some love , it's great!
as you said, because it's a flawed printer. People who don't like to tinker don't buy a printer that needs tinkering, and people who like to tinker buy a printer that works first of all, and then tinker with it
@@HitLuca94 you’re right.
I think everyone should own a Prusa as their first machine (Mk3 or the latest-and-greatest Mk4) - or maybe even the Bambu Lab machines - yes, they are expensive to buy, but they work, and they give you a baseline experience and the ability to print parts which you can then use to modify some other flawed, cheaper printer like the Tronxy.
To put it another way, everyone needs a small (reliable) printer before they take on a large (unreliable) printer :)
My Tronxy in the end has printed parts the others cannot. It’s been worth it, but it would never have worked as my only machine. It also printed all the parts for my Voron 2.4, which has proved to be a fine replacement for the Tronxy but again, could never have worked unless I’d had another working printer first.
Great video and info and great way to keep your filament dry by storing it inside the printer.
I would be interested in the clip system that holds together the acrylic glass enclosure ...
i have had my x5sa pro about 3 weeks now. getting the z axis to remain the same at the start was a pain then i did the belt on the z axis and the backlash nuts. which has helped a lot as the z will not drop at all now when sitting idle.
it has tronxy version of marlin on it but it ain't right prints are good but do a auto level even with the bed and hot end heated or just one or even not at all.
it will do it but redo it again and not adjust anything and it will give a different result.
i just do a z offset and manual level then print.
going to build up a VzBot from scratch then convert the x5sa after.
and yes watch that great film of Burt and i think his records still stand to this day.
Ahoi Alex, your video gave me the last push, just bought a X5SA Pro kit for 320€ 🙂. They come with the glas plate per default now. I bought a Prusa Mini Clone kit from FYSETC previously, at the time you had to wait 3 month for a Mini from Prusa himself, turns out the kit is very high quality and really cheap (200€ with shipping, 3D printed parts ordered in Spain for 40€). I bought a second kit, to faster iterate on my models (parts for vintage computers mainly).
Every once in a while i feel the urge to print something larger, but didn't want to go Voron 2.4 because of costs. That is when i saw your video. I'm not doing all your upgrades, just direct extruder, some bracing of the frame, Z synchronization and a frame. I plan to do mine on wheels, since i don't have a basement, everything has to happen in the living room or kitchen ;-).
Would love another update on your rail, or other experiences you had.
Cheers😊
Very good!
The only thing I would suggest beyond what I showed in the video is to consider a newer hotend design - the OMG H2 looks clever because it can bolt onto the same mounting holes, but you do need an extruder as well, so the NF Sunrise might still be the neater solution.
The Tronxy rails are still working fine and I think without spending lots of extra money, your setup will get you good quality for large prints up to a speed of about 100mm/s. The frame bracing aluminium corners are the most effective, also consider doubling up the vertical rod bearings as I have (it is cheap and easy) as it stops the bed from wobbling.
My next move is going to be a VZ-bot build, I just haven’t got around to it yet. There are many parts to order - lightweight rails (if you want smooth movement they are expensive), new controller board, better stepper drivers, so when you look at the double-cost to go that little bit faster, I think you will find that the standard X5sa Pro with the three modifications I said in the video - NF Sunrise, sync belt, and Klipper - will be a good-value setup for you.
Running Klipper and Mainsail makes a big difference to the usability of the printer, it makes it just like a Voron to control. I really recommend that. You don’t have to use a touchscreen, you can control it through the Web interface from a tablet or phone (it seems odd at first to have a printer with no control panel, but it does work).
I have a Voron 2.4 as well as my Tronxy. You can never have too many printers. The Voron is good but it is not really any faster than the Tronxy nor any better print quality, because the moving parts are heavy. It’s only advantage is that the first layer levelling is a bit more reliable with the quad gantry setup and heavy, flat buildplate (but again, more expensive as you know). I am running a Rapido hotend in the Voron which heats fast and is easy to change the nozzle on. But I think the most important is to use good-quality plated nozzles, like you can get from the Mellow Store (AliExpress) where you find the NF Sunrise.
Consider that with a large printer you are probably optimising for prints with a 0.6 nozzle (strength and speed) - PETG or ABS, enclosing the printer is necessary, but part cooling is not as important - for detailed small prints, you have your Prusa-Mini clone.
Thanks for your comments :)
@@alexshepherd Nah, thank you. Lots of food for thought. 👍
Well, seems i was unlucky and lucky at the same time. The seller sent me a X5SA-400 Pro instead of the X5SA Pro i ordered. I already constructed a nice table with wheels, bought and cut plastic glass sheets, so this larger one should go back, but the seller is making it complicated. I may have to use Ebay to get this fixed.
At the same time i saw the X5SA Pro at Amazon for 250€, comes with the Z synchronization kit too. Bought it, should be here soon.
I may end up with a spare X5SA-400 Pro if Ebay decides it so, but in that case i figure i can sell it myself, got it for 320€. 😅
Since there isn't much to do right now i keep printing flexi rexis for christmas on the Prusa Mini clone and read up on Klipper, extruders and hotends.
@@citronski I think you’re making the right choice. Giant printers are a nuisance in three ways; the expense of the print surface (and heating a large bed), the lack of frame stiffness, and the space they take up in your workroom, garage, etc.
I hope you manage to return it, if it was not as described - it shouldn’t be up to you to resell it
@@alexshepherd The seller was uncooperative, i went to Ebay for help. Ebay decided to just give me my money back. When i asked what to do with the wrong printer, they suggested to throw it away! So now i have two, a X5SA-400 Pro and a X5SA Pro, for 250€! I'll keep the 400 for a few weeks, in case the seller wants it back, but after that I'm selling it. 😅 What a muppet that seller was!
So i built the X5SA Pro, no problems so far, if you have built a printer before it's easy. I think even a newbie could do it. Printed a benchy, it's acceptable, far from what i get on a Prusa Mini clone, like what i got from the Ender 3 back in the day. The long bowden tube is a real problem. Klipper is next on the agenda.
I have decided to go for a Volcano clone hotend and a Mellow Sherpa Mini direct extruder, both are ordered, as well as a bunch of nozzles and different heatbreaks.
That's it from me for now, Cheers. 😄
Great to see your getting a reliable 100mm/s+ out of the machine. Is anyone with a modified Tronxy X5sa Pro getting reliable speeds nearer 200mm/s thought? I'm looking for a CoreXY specifically to print lots of parts with a build volume near to 400x400x400mm. Potentially I could buy three X5sa and all the upgrade parts for the price of one Voron/RatRig
I think you’re better off going down the Voron path which will get you to 200mm/s easily in a 350x350x350 size, but otherwise you need to build a VZ-bot. There is now a kit for the VZ-bot - approx. US$1250. I suspect the only way to get 400x400x400 will be to start with a regular Tronxy X5sa 400 (non-Pro version without the metal wheels) and fit linear rails, VZ-bot parts, new control board, Klipper etc. The modifications I’ve shown here will only get you to about 150mm/s max. Good luck with your build :)
Going down the voron path... go Vzbot. It started as a modified x5sa... it's the fastest printer on the planet of its size.
And yes, I get well over 200mms on several modified x5sa. Go linear rails, simple hotend, move the z rods apart as fast as you can, and move them in to the frame a little so you can enclose the frame easy.
Also I've got 350x350x420, in the standard x5sa frame.
My highly modified x5sa gets 20k acceleration and 1000mms travel speeds. I can print up to 40mms³/s throughout on my hotend, at whatever speed I like. 100.
Not a vz, but my own design.
Of course with a highly tuned slicer profile.
Hey could you help me out, i followed your route with my tronxy x5sa pro and got the nfsunrise extruder installed, however i am haveing issues with part cooling, I printed a similar fanduct as you have however there are clearance issues with it hitting the x rail top plates. Can you post a link for the fan duct you used?
Hello - I remember the fan only just clearing the Y-axis carriage, I think my favourite was the Prusa-style fan mount/duct that you can get from here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5150173
good job and nice explanation .
Cheers, I appreciate it :)
I have no need to push for ‘likes’ and ‘subscribes’, will never have enough views or followers for UA-cam to care. All I like to know is that someone, somewhere might get better results out of their Tronxy :)
In original form they’re not really much good, but with the three main modifications shown here (the sync belt, the direct-feed extruder, and Klipper firmware) they work much better. Then, an enclosure makes it possible to print in ABS (or large prints in PETG) without warping, and suddenly it’s a useful machine!
i dont know when you made this video but i love your set up i have the v6 board and i cant get klipper on it for nothing would be great if you could make a video of how you did all this
Thanks. I don’t have time to make a video about the Klipper install, but I suggest you do a basic setup of the Raspberry Pi OS (Lite, without desktop) and then use KIAUH (the Klipper Installation And Update Helper); just go to the KIAUH page on your PC, then copy and paste the supplied commands into a PuTTY terminal window that’s logged in to your Raspberry Pi. From KIAUH, you can then install Klipper and Mainsail (or Fluidd if you prefer) really easily.
For setting up the printer, see gist.github.com/cab404/b7bcbb0cd592a14515493694719de59b
Would you please post more videos how to convert your printer ,I have the same printer.. I'm just want print abs thanks..
Hi Alex, can you advise which belts your using? - ive no idea what constitutes "good quality"!
Hello - I’m using Gates-branded 2GT belts; I think they are genuine. Good-quality belts are flexible enough to wrap around 20mm pulleys without creating a load of friction, while also having the teeth surfaces treated with a fabric (in this case a brown material) to improve their wear resistance. Make sure to order enough length! a.aliexpress.com/_m02BG1O
What backplate did you use for mounting and for the part cooling fan?
very nice! I prefer the term "Short coupled" and not direct drive... it doesn't feed directly, it still has a short tube.
Thanks - yes that’s fair I suppose, it’s the equivalent of a Prusa or Voron setup, with about 20mm of Teflon tube between the filament feeder and the top of the heatbreak. It would be hard to get it any closer
What non-contact bed probe are you using that it works on glass? got to get me one of those.
That was the Tronxy TR sensor (black), which came with the coated glass bed. It was a capacitive type (detects anything). The blue sensor that came with the printer was an inductive type (detects aluminium, not glass).
I’ve built a VZBot now - I just use a Z-stop microswitch on the frame and level the bed manually. No probe at all :)
@@alexshepherd as a mainly PETG user there is real no good solution for this stuff haha, cannot use PEI, glass you have to use gluestick or hairspray and other bed materials either grip way too little or are far too expensive, maybe i will have to get one and see if it works with my glass bed.
Can you connect the NF sunrise to stock tronxy motherboard ??
какой клиппер ты использовал?
Love the video, how thick was the sheeting for the enclosure as I'm looking to replicate it
Thanks! 8mm thick
www.bunnings.co.nz/twinwall-1200-x-610-x-8mm-clear-panel_p0165356
@@alexshepherd Appreciate the reply, still getting round to it! how tall are those side pieces of twinwall, not sure how much clearance to give
Hi, how much weight do you save with the holes?
I looked up the photos on the scales for you - 112g off the X rail, 16g off each of the three carriages (one X and two Y) so about 160g saved all-up by drilling holes
Direct extruder motor, with original hotend, bracket and fan was 377g, NF Sunrise with fans is 258g (so another 119g saved by changing to the NF Sunrise)
The holes are bigger than they look because they are drilled from the back, with a step drill - so the holes just touch each other
Hi Alex, great review! I also want to make a similar enclosure for my TRONXY, what loops do you use and can you share stl files?
Thank you, wanted to share what’s worked for me :) designs for the parts I used are www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240585 and from there you can browse my other items, not sure what you mean by ‘loops’ sorry!
@@alexshepherd Alex, thanks for the link, I meant door hinges on the leaves, this is the sixth photo on the list. Probably do it yourself, but if there is a ready-made solution, I will be grateful to you. Shake your hand.
@@alexshepherd Alex, I'm sorry, I did not immediately pay attention to your description, I found these at the link. Thanks again.
How’s the bed leveling process go?
Pretty well - Klipper shows a Heightmap where you can see the shape it’s seen. If it’s a saddle-shape, check that the top frame sides aren’t over tightened down onto the smooth rods - that will bow the frame sides and make the bed levelling think the middle of the bed is ‘high’. Add washers to take up the gap between the smooth rods and the top frame.
Pre-warm the printer for half an hour before probing the bed. Adjust the bed manually to get it as flat as possible on the visualisation. Check the vertical scale - 0.15mm variance is OK, the auto-levelling will take care of that, and shouldn’t need re-probing before each print
What top acceleration do you think the x5sa can handle with klipper and the stock guides? Excellent video!
You’re very kind; it’s hard to make a good video in one take when there is no editing possible :) I think the maximum practical acceleration is similar to the Voron 2.4, about 5000m/s^3
Do you happen to have a list of the parts you changed/added?
- Tronxy lattice glass and TR sensor
- Gates belts
- Additional LM8UU bearings for Z rods
- Tronxy Z-sync belt kit with pulleys
- Mellow NF Sunrise, extension wiring for extruder motor
- 5015 fan, also replacement 4010 fan for the controller box (use ball bearing fans)
- Raspberry Pi 3B+ back when they cost NZ$80, 7” HDMI display
- several sheets of ‘twinwall’ polycarbonate (sold as verandah roofing)
- various printed parts and brackets to relocate spool holder etc. which are listed on my Thingiverse page www.thingiverse.com/alexgsofnz/designs
That’s about all I can think of right now
can you post the thingiverse link for your enclosure standoffs
Hello, please see www.thingiverse.com/thing:5240585 - thanks
Wow! Thats exactly how far i want to be with my Standard X5SA-400 (not pro, with v-Slot rollers). But with klipper i will wait. The original Chituh Software is realy easy and also good to Customizing in the Config. But one question: are you happy with the OCR-Rails from tronxy? Worth the Upgrade and are the better than MGN12H Rails?
Hello Marcus, thank you for your comments! I feel that you will definitely get better results with Klipper, especially with input shaping and pressure advance. But anyway, I would suggest the MGN12H rails for you as they are probably lighter than Tronxy’s rails. I will say, though, that the worst linear rails are sometimes gritty, where the Tronxy rails are relatively smooth. Anyway, I will be rebuilding mine with Hiwin rails (the best type). I hope you get nice results from your large 400-size machine!
which clipper did you use?
There’s only one?
It’s running on a Pi Zero 2W
The interface is Mainsail and Klipperscreen
I recommend KIAUH - the Klipper Installation And Update Helper. Go to the website, copy the command into a PuTTY terminal window (that’s logged into your Pi) and it’s pretty easy from there. The printer-specific config details can then be searched for and found (e.g. search for Tronxy X5sa Klipper)
Hi alex, could you tell me the size of hole in x rail, and y carrier?
How much weight you save from doing this? Thanks
Hello, I can’t reply with a photo here, but facebook.com/groups/169728600253557/permalink/1057215468171528/ - I used a step drill, holes are several sizes with the larger holes on the back. Weight of the X carriage rail went from 591g to 480g, total weight saving 19g off X moving mass and 162g off Y moving mass. You would save more weight by changing the design to use linear rails, but it is a wait for them to arrive :)
@@alexshepherd yeah, i planned to change into extrusion and linear rail instead. But it need to wait cause i want to change my extruder to nf sunrise first, then change my board to btt octopus, and after that i change my xy movement to linear rail.
You convinced me to build a voron 2.4 instead. Don't get me wrong, your work is impressive but I had a anycubic chiron on which I spent months working. I would sort one snag and get another shortly. So.... No. Better go for what is considered the best.
Fair enough, I’ve actually just finished building my own Voron 2.4. It’s much neater, works generally better… but of course, it was more expensive to buy :) consider the Trident too
do you or anyone else have a super slicer profile, RTG, I've lost a fully dialled in machine, due to computer virus/hacker, and i've since nuked the drive... irrelevant to you guys but explains why I'm asking.
i have klipper, direct drive, range of nozzles, but if someone has a solid base for a leg up, i will dial it back further more and reshare it. took me over 300hrs to build my last profile, managed to make a crystal dragon at full scale to bed at 130mm/ps
wit just the cooling fan running and no duct, variable heights from 0.01-.2 variance, came out immaculate, full print settings lost due a profile loss has absolutly gutted me
I’m sorry, I’ve only just started using Superslicer with my Voron 2.4, haven’t tried setting up the Tronxy yet. I reckon, though, that as long as your printer.cfg is safe and correct (in Klipper, in the Pi), the slicer settings won’t take you long to get right. Set retraction to 1mm and 40mm/s first… then set all the speeds to 80mm/s, and work your way from there - I don’t reckon it will take you 300hrs to get it working this time around, as you’ll remember what works and what doesn’t :) but I do sympathise, it’s very unsettling when all those carefully-refined settings are gone!
Also, Twin-wall PC Sheets 2ft x 8ft from Home Depot for $48 (24 in. x 96 in. Polycarbonate Clear Multiwall Roof Panel)
Or 48$ for 4x8 abs panels from a local plastic company, or online 😏