On the rears you don't need to unhook sway bar links or suspension links. Just put a floor jack under bottom of shock to take off pressure and pry it off stud. Much easier.
This is definitely one of the better and clearer install video's I've come across, though there seems to be no mention of re-tightening certain parts once under load to avoid twisting bushes? - can you advise/comment please? Thanks
Neil that's a good point and was done after the fact. You want to leave the upper control arm loose, preload with a jack or drop the car down, then use a box end wrench to tighten them back up.
@@MotoTuned Thanks for the prompt reply - here's some instructions I saw somewhere else that I saved - what do you think? I'm just paranoid that when I remove my existing Mazda shocks with factory fitted Eibach springs, and replace with new coilovers, that I do it all properly... When refitting the upper control arms on the front you need to torque up at ride height to remove wind-up from the bushings, and in cases where the car has been lowered, then ALL control arms front and rear need to have crack-off and re-torque at height. Otherwise the care will not site level, the suspension will be bound up and the bushings won't last. Suggestion is to loosen all the bush fixings, then let the car sit on its new springs. Roll the car backwards and forwards a couple of car lengths to remove any camber thrust from the tyres. then put tape on the wing eyebrows and mark a height measuremement from wheel centre - this is where the car should sit and where you want zero wind-up in all the bushings. Then lift the car again, remove wheels and jack up each hub until reaching the measured height, then torque up all the control arm joints.
No, NC has camber and toe adjustment at the rear. Mine is only moderately lowered and has about 2° of camber on the rear wheels and about 2.5° at the front. If you want more you can start replacing suspension bits. There are eccentric bushes available for the front but they're a pain to install.
Thank you guys! Great tutorial.
On the rears you don't need to unhook sway bar links or suspension links. Just put a floor jack under bottom of shock to take off pressure and pry it off stud. Much easier.
Good stuff! Seems pretty straight-forward. Really appreciate the quick video so I have a better idea of what I'm getting into in the coming months.
Just A Couple Vagabonds glad you found it helpful!
This is definitely one of the better and clearer install video's I've come across, though there seems to be no mention of re-tightening certain parts once under load to avoid twisting bushes? - can you advise/comment please? Thanks
Neil that's a good point and was done after the fact. You want to leave the upper control arm loose, preload with a jack or drop the car down, then use a box end wrench to tighten them back up.
@@MotoTuned Thanks for the prompt reply - here's some instructions I saw somewhere else that I saved - what do you think? I'm just paranoid that when I remove my existing Mazda shocks with factory fitted Eibach springs, and replace with new coilovers, that I do it all properly...
When refitting the upper control arms on the front you need to torque up at ride height to remove wind-up from the bushings, and in cases where the car has been lowered, then ALL control arms front and rear need to have crack-off and re-torque at height. Otherwise the care will not site level, the suspension will be bound up and the bushings won't last. Suggestion is to loosen all the bush fixings, then let the car sit on its new springs. Roll the car backwards and forwards a couple of car lengths to remove any camber thrust from the tyres. then put tape on the wing eyebrows and mark a height measuremement from wheel centre - this is where the car should sit and where you want zero wind-up in all the bushings. Then lift the car again, remove wheels and jack up each hub until reaching the measured height, then torque up all the control arm joints.
Shouldn't you have loosened all of the bushings, including the alignment ones before retorquing under suspension load?
For he rears do I have to get in the trunk ?
2011 mx5
Yes you do!
Thanks for the reply
Should I losses the shock bottom bolt first cus u said something that it won't come out
Do you need to install the rear camber kit for the wheel alignment on this MX5?
No, NC has camber and toe adjustment at the rear. Mine is only moderately lowered and has about 2° of camber on the rear wheels and about 2.5° at the front. If you want more you can start replacing suspension bits. There are eccentric bushes available for the front but they're a pain to install.
Be mindful not to yank on the ABS sensor wire while manipulating the front hub. Some instructions recommend to disconnect it first.
Very poor video. Really bad camera angles, couldn’t see most of what you were doing. You need a lot of close ups.
lame