I changed mine today (all 3) took about 4 hours taking it easy while on lockdown and doing a few other bits along the way. To do the gearbox mount is easier if you take the bracket that attached to the gearbox by 3 bolts and also doubles as the gear shifter linkage holder off ( you can re-bush or lube it whiles it's off too), and also take the other top bracket that comes forward and it attached at the front by two bolts. You dont need to touch the suspension control arm.
excellent video, I'd recommend doing the front mount, transmission mount and end with the rear mount. Transmission mount is probably the hardest one to do so be careful!
You should mention in your Title, if not your description also, the Make, Model, & Year Range of car you are working on. I found this video searching for "how to vw rabbit scirocco jetta motor mount", I'd have liked to find an A1 chassis tutorial to pass on someone who asked "How do I...".
hi we got the mounts from veedubmachine.co.uk as they were the cheapest on this occassion. this engine is 1.8 carb, and it has driven better since changing them, far less clunking now. (this car needs choke sorting though). back when we did them on a mk2 1.3, that car was really bad, everytime you pulled out into traffic, you wondered if you had enough gap to get out as the car seemed to have no power, or sudden loss of power when trying to pull out. On that car we replaced most parts, including a new clutch (and cable prior to that), but weeks after any new bits went on probs would come back, then I remebered about 1 lad who we had to change his mounts on his GTi, so we did the 1st one on the 1.3 and it was a great improvement, then we did the others on the 1.3 and it was sorted from then on. No more risking your life pulling out into the road. Engine was pretty solid in the bay once they were changed, beforehand the 1.3 would wobble like jelly if you tried to shake it by hand. only trouble with the cheap mounts is they are much wobblier than originals to start with as the rubber used is only cheap. but still if you don't know when they were changed on the car then it is worth changing them. I have seen some suggest filling the gaps with a silicone/filler, to make the mounts stiffer. This might work too. Thanks.
Could you provide the links to purchase these mounts and what engine they are for. Also could bad motor mounts = great loss of power? How did the car drive before and after the job was done?
Classickid21 hi this is not too bad a job to undertake. It normally takes more time thinking about how to do these jobs and getting up and down to get different tools out all the time than it does doing the actual work. Seeing it here makes it look quite easy and as long as you can undo all those bolts and line them up easily enough again which they should do then it is quite straightforward to do. Hopefully a couple of hours and you should have it done after you have got all your tools out. If you have a helper to pass tools then you should enjoy this little challenge. Make sure you use axle stands as well as a jack as jack's on their own are dangerous. The gearbox mount I never did manage to fit as I never could work out an easy way. Have fun. Golfs always drive better on fresh mounts.
ifitsgotwheels thanks for the comment, I am. Not even going to. Bother doing the mount haha, I have front and rear finally fed up the carb mixture vibrating loose I am hoping this solves it
No sorry, as we no longer have the car or paperwork for it. The car got written off and now we have a newer Polo now instead. Just seen in previous answers we got them from www.veedubmachine.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=2&q=Golf+mk2+engine+mount as found them cheapest on that occasion. from their pages you might be able to work out the part numbers and what's correct for your car. Where there are no pics shown you will be able to google the part numbers shown to find pics elewhere to double check they are right ones. Hope this helps! Thanks.
Hi Rebuild them if you have too. I have even seen mounts filled with silicone in the gaps to help stiffen them back up, but try a company called Rock Auto as they may be able to supply or have something in the warehouses to suit your vehicle. I know from the USA they will ship worldwide, although they now have a UK site too. Worth a try.
ifitsgotwheels . Thanks for your replying. But I live in Tunisia . I have taken them to company specialising for ( polyurethane. Caoutcho and silicones )
Hi it's always easier if you can give them all a good soaking in WD40 a day or two beforehand. We did have to undo the front mount last week to replace the starter motor and the top bolt through the stater motor we had to spend an hour or two cutting the nut off by hand with a padsaw. Nightmare. Use a strongbar rather than a ratchet to start them off with as well. Makes it that much easier and saves busting a ratchet. Best of luck.
+ifitsgotwheels Yea Ive sprayed some Plusgas on them now. Thing is theres not alot of room around the top bolt to use a longer bar because of the distance from the engine to the rad. Thanks
I changed mine today (all 3) took about 4 hours taking it easy while on lockdown and doing a few other bits along the way. To do the gearbox mount is easier if you take the bracket that attached to the gearbox by 3 bolts and also doubles as the gear shifter linkage holder off ( you can re-bush or lube it whiles it's off too), and also take the other top bracket that comes forward and it attached at the front by two bolts. You dont need to touch the suspension control arm.
Thanks, I never did work that one out.
excellent video, I'd recommend doing the front mount, transmission mount and end with the rear mount. Transmission mount is probably the hardest one to do so be careful!
very helpful, thanks alot from germany !!!
You should mention in your Title, if not your description also, the Make, Model, & Year Range of car you are working on. I found this video searching for "how to vw rabbit scirocco jetta motor mount", I'd have liked to find an A1 chassis tutorial to pass on someone who asked "How do I...".
hi we got the mounts from veedubmachine.co.uk as they were the cheapest on this occassion.
this engine is 1.8 carb, and it has driven better since changing them, far less clunking now. (this car needs choke sorting though).
back when we did them on a mk2 1.3, that car was really bad, everytime you pulled out into traffic, you wondered if you had enough gap to get out as the car seemed to have no power, or sudden loss of power when trying to pull out. On that car we replaced most parts, including a new clutch (and cable prior to that), but weeks after any new bits went on probs would come back, then I remebered about 1 lad who we had to change his mounts on his GTi, so we did the 1st one on the 1.3 and it was a great improvement, then we did the others on the 1.3 and it was sorted from then on. No more risking your life pulling out into the road.
Engine was pretty solid in the bay once they were changed, beforehand the 1.3 would wobble like jelly if you tried to shake it by hand.
only trouble with the cheap mounts is they are much wobblier than originals to start with as the rubber used is only cheap. but still if you don't know when they were changed on the car then it is worth changing them.
I have seen some suggest filling the gaps with a silicone/filler, to make the mounts stiffer. This might work too. Thanks.
Thank you very much.
Hello what year is this and I have a vw mark 3
Hi it was a 1991 J-reg VW Golf mk2 1.8 Driver
Shit, the one I am stuck with is the one he didn't do!!!
me too
Could you provide the links to purchase these mounts and what engine they are for. Also could bad motor mounts = great loss of power? How did the car drive before and after the job was done?
thank you for the video this helped me alot, how long will this usually take, i am going to do my rear and front mount this weekend :D no engine hoist
Classickid21 hi this is not too bad a job to undertake. It normally takes more time thinking about how to do these jobs and getting up and down to get different tools out all the time than it does doing the actual work. Seeing it here makes it look quite easy and as long as you can undo all those bolts and line them up easily enough again which they should do then it is quite straightforward to do. Hopefully a couple of hours and you should have it done after you have got all your tools out. If you have a helper to pass tools then you should enjoy this little challenge. Make sure you use axle stands as well as a jack as jack's on their own are dangerous. The gearbox mount I never did manage to fit as I never could work out an easy way. Have fun. Golfs always drive better on fresh mounts.
ifitsgotwheels thanks for the comment, I am. Not even going to. Bother doing the mount haha, I have front and rear finally fed up the carb mixture vibrating loose I am hoping this solves it
Hello,
Nice video, can you also give the vw part numbers for each part?
Thank you 👍🏼
No sorry, as we no longer have the car or paperwork for it. The car got written off and now we have a newer Polo now instead. Just seen in previous answers we got them from www.veedubmachine.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=2&q=Golf+mk2+engine+mount as found them cheapest on that occasion. from their pages you might be able to work out the part numbers and what's correct for your car. Where there are no pics shown you will be able to google the part numbers shown to find pics elewhere to double check they are right ones. Hope this helps! Thanks.
Did you change the third motor mount?
The one by the transmission. Did you upload a second video?
No sorry, I never figured it out.
Hello mr . I have land rover. The support mount engine is very expensive. Do you advise me to rebuild them ?
Hi Rebuild them if you have too. I have even seen mounts filled with silicone in the gaps to help stiffen them back up, but try a company called Rock Auto as they may be able to supply or have something in the warehouses to suit your vehicle. I know from the USA they will ship worldwide, although they now have a UK site too. Worth a try.
ifitsgotwheels . Thanks for your replying. But I live in Tunisia . I have taken them to company specialising for ( polyurethane. Caoutcho and silicones )
Hi. I tried changing my front mount on my mk2 today but could not get the bolts of the mount undone. Any tips on how you got them loose? Thanks
Hi it's always easier if you can give them all a good soaking in WD40 a day or two beforehand.
We did have to undo the front mount last week to replace the starter motor and the top bolt through the stater motor we had to spend an hour or two cutting the nut off by hand with a padsaw. Nightmare.
Use a strongbar rather than a ratchet to start them off with as well. Makes it that much easier and saves busting a ratchet. Best of luck.
+ifitsgotwheels Yea Ive sprayed some Plusgas on them now. Thing is theres not alot of room around the top bolt to use a longer bar because of the distance from the engine to the rad. Thanks