Because of your awesome video, I was able to do this on my 2012 Corolla today (also gray!). I have 124K miles on the Corolla and was having no problems with the transmission at all. The dipstick says NO NEED TO REPLACE ATF UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS so I put it off until I watched your video. Fluid on the dipstick was a little dark, but not bad. I used Toyota ATF WS fluid, a genuine Toyota pan gasket, a Toyota drain plug gasket, and a WIX filter. Total parts cost was $90 compared to $270 at two local Toyota dealerships, and that price is just a drain and fill, no filter change! You saved me a bunch of money and I got the satisfaction of getting dirty and doing a more complete job. I bought a torque wrench because of you, it worked great, and gave me some piece of mind. Great camera angles and commentary in your video. Thank you for the inspiration, Vance!
I've had no "trouble" with my 2012 Corolla except for one area-- I have had to replace 3 of the 4 door lock actuators. Have you experienced any trouble with yours? They don't fail completely all at once, they start to have intermittent problems locking and unlocking. I have had good luck with rebuilt actuators on ebay for $50 to $60. Also, just verified that my VIN number is included in the recent air bag recall involving ECUs that need a noise filter. I already did the front passenger airbag inflator recall.
@@daver5934 Luckily I haven't had any issues with door lock actuators. I'll keep the rebuilt option in mind in case it happens, though. I did get an airbag recall service done a while back. I don't remember anything about an ECU though. I'll check in to that on mine.
@@daver5934 Interesting about your door actuators - I have a 2002 Corolla (same as 2003 US Corolla model, 9th gen) and the rear left door doesn't operate on command with the central locking. But occasionally, like once a week or so, I'll find the damn thing unlocked. I guess it's mostly broken but intermittently does unlock with the rest of the doors - but never locks itself again. So I have to walk around and make sure it's locked any time I go anywhere lol (it's a right-hand drive vehicle). Been on my list to learn how to pull apart the door trim for a long time and see if it's just a bad connection or something. Figured I'd have to replace the actuator though.
I agree the video is very well done BUT the Haynes manual does have the torque specs. which DO NOT agree with the ones he used on his 2012. He also didn't mention the fact you should be doing a hot oil change for maximum benefit of draining away sediments. That is also stated in the Haynes Manual and i have never done anything but hot oil changes in anything i own. Every mechanic will tell you the same thing.
Good video. Quite similar to the earlier Corollas, mine is a 1996 AE102 and has the different length strainer bolts you mentioned. A couple of things we did differently, one was tightening the internal bolts ( above the strainer ) to 10 Nm ( 7 ft/lbs) and all were loose, and when securing the pan the bolts were done in a crisscross pattern.
Great video, I am by no means a mechanic, but after watching your video I'm positive I can change both oil/trans fluids +filters. Probably save about 300$ in the process, and I'm also positive I will need to watch again while doing them😁...Thank You Sir👍👍🔧
By far the best how to video man! Aside to the fact that tomorrow morning I’ll be doing the same things to my car, you kept it plain and simple but with enough info and dialogue. Great job man
And no modern bone head music. Thank you for that too. Also, do not torque oil filter cap nut too tight, probably less than you think, if you do not use a torque wrench. I did and had to buy an impact wrench to get it off. Kind of a Mickey mouse clip to hold it in place, I ended up using a piece of metal and a big adjustable hose clamp.
I change the synthetic engine oil every 5,000 miles, the transmission fluid/filter every 50,000, and replace antifreeze every 60,000 miles. Keeps my 2012 Corolla running perfectly! Changing antifreeze protects the water pump and prevents head gasket leaks too!
I was searching for corolla transmission oil change and found your video I like the way you do and I love your work.keep good work. Greetings from Egypt
Nice video, thanks! I’ve found Toyota WS gets very dark very fast. I did a complete flush on my Highlander at 45k miles and it was as dark as yours. Now I change do a drain and fill every year, which is only a few quarts (not the full 12 for a flush). Also, I like the idea of a quick drain valve! I stripped the transmission plug on my Lexus (despite using a torque wrench) and let me tell you, paying $145 for a new pan (parts only) from the dealer down the street is not something I ever wish to repeat!
I actually got a comment from a user who pointed out that the torque values I used were for the 2003-2008 Corolla (with 1.8L 1ZZ-FE engine). According to his service manual, the 2009-2013 Corolla (with 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine), has different values: Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 8 ft-lb Transmission Pan Bolts - 5.75 ft-lb Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 36 ft-lb So the values in my video are a little off: Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 7 ft-lb Transmission Pan Bolts - 4 ft-lb Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 13 ft-lb
Great pace of instruction, nice video clarity and HD crispiness. Thank you for the torque specs and quality of instruction. This was encouraging. I'm out to tackle my 2011 Corolla. Thank you sir!
While the filter is out you could as well tighten the bolts that hold the transmission valve body. They could loosen overtime and tightening them to spec (8 ft-lbs) will improve shifting.
Great video I have seen others with oil splashing everywhere. I just changed mine. One step I did forget was putting a little oil on the o ring. Good idea. Thanks for the tips!
Great video, just did the work. Strainer/good practice worked out well. Nice to do a complete job. Looking forward to more 2012 Corolla videos. Especially rear drum brakes if you happen to need to service or replace them. Thanks for sharing.
Would recommend when doing this to flush cooler out, by finding the cooler return line and putting that into a drain pan and overfilling the trans fluid by around 3 qts and run it until clear
Very nice video , I have a 2012 Corolla and I'm researching this so thanks... as an FYI and possibly a cautionary note, the Haynes repair manual for 2003 thru 2013 Toyota Corolla specifies a torque for the transaxle pan bolts of 69 inch pounds for 2009 thru 2013 vehicles. It specifies 48 inch pounds for 2005 and earlier. Also it specifies for the transaxle drain plug a torque of 36 foot pounds for 2009 and later; and it specs 156 inch pounds (13 foot pounds) for 2003 -2008. (BTW,it gives no specs for the torque on the strainer bolts, other than to tighten them).
Thanks for watching! The link below is what I found when I researched the tightening torque values. Not sure if I would trust a Haynes manual or not; its up to you. Good luck with the project! www.tcorolla.net/transmission_valve_body_assy_atm_-1180.html
Nice work, Vance! You make it look easy. There is one tip I read about on one of the car forums. Just before you put the gasket on the transmission pan, you can smear the edge with a thin layer of grease or motor oil. This holds the gasket in place. So it's not moving away from where it is supposed to be, as you lift the transmission pan and put the screws in. Has anyone tried this trick? Ferris Bueller, Ferris Bueller, anyone?
That is a transsmission failure filter (its purpose is to stop chunks of metal from spreading through the tranni if there is a failure). It doesnt need to be replaced. You can just spray it out with some brake cleaner if you want and re install or just leave it alone. It has a steel screan in it.
Completed the atf drain and fill with zero problems. Your video was super helpful! I bought the same filter from Amazon and fluid from Toyota. Saved me over $290 for what the dealership would have charged! Thank you!!
Well done. Choice of oil filter cap wrench is right on (although the Motivx MX2321 may fit better). And drawing attention to the torque spec is a plus. I would trust you to change my oil and that earns you a thumbs up. Only thing that I can mention is that the official instructions say not to use a pick or screwdriver to remove or install the o-ring. While I feel that is a bit anal, it's probably worth mentioning that if a person is going to use one of those be careful not to damage that plastic oil filter cap. 😉 I would also fill the engine oil up to closer to the full mark on the dip-stick. And I would take the car for a 20 minute drive to warm up the transmission hopefully to operating temperature and check that transmission fluid dipstick to see if it was in the hot zone as it should be. Technically the transmission fluid is suppose to be between 158°F and 176°F but since Toyota doesn't give you a gauge to read that, you kinda have to cross your fingers. 😉😏
You may want to inform us how many QTS you put in , and where to it should be when it gets hot the mark on the dip stick thanks for that demonstration also everyone should know that to change out the trans fluid ,all of it the cost is 300 dollars at Toyota dealer 15 QTS just FYI guys and should be done every 60,000 miles
Looks like the torque spec info you got were for the previous generation (03-08) Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE engine and automatic transmission. That's why the strainer bolts were the same length instead of different lengths like you had read and why only three quarts got drained out instead of the 4 you had read should have drained. Also the reason why you thought the transmission fluid drain pan bolt was so low, It's supposed to be torqued tighter to crush and seal the aluminum gasket/washer. Here are the correct torque specs for that U341E Automatic transmission from the service manual for your car with the 2ZR-FE 1.8 Motor. Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 8ft-lbf 19 Pan bolts for the transmission - 69in-lbf Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 36ft-lbf
Vance, that petcock drain valve has a very low flow as compared to removing the regular drain plug. I feel the quick rush of the oil is better to flush out the oil pan. Petcock could also be knocked off if road debris flys up and hits it.
hey would you happen to know if the differential is lubed by transmission oil? i am trying to find out if the differential takes a different type of oil but cannot seem to get a direct answer. From what im getting so far is that once you perform a transmission oil change you are also doing differential oil change as well
Like the tutorial on the transmission oil and filter change! Now, How well the after market drain plug (engine oil) works? Did you trust on it? 2010 Corolla owner
You're actually supposed to do a star pattern when putting the transmission pan back on never torque down those bolts n a counter clock position that could throw your pan off, and or push your gasket out. And then it would leak and your transmission would be ruined due to low transmission fluid it could even damage the transmission just an FYI guys but all in all he did a good job, just remember guys all the torque specs are correct just remember to do that star pattern and you'll be good later.
Good catch! Well, I'm not perfect :-). In general, you are correct to use a criss-cross tightening pattern. In this case I went around the perimeter multiple times, adding more torque each time, which is also a good method. In reality, the final round would have been better with criss-cross, but I didn't want to miss one, so I went around the perimeter. It was a reliable method to ensure I didn't forget to tighten one of them. Another reason why its ok in this case is because the torque is so low. Criss-cross is more important when the torque values are high. About 30K miles since this job with no leaks, so in this case my method was certainly ok. Thanks for watching!
One thing you didn't mention was the importance of doing a hot oil change for both the engine and transaxle because hot oil is more effective than cold oil in carrying away suspended sediments. The Haynes Manual for 2003-2013 Corollas states there is also a drain plug in the differential to be removed, which makes sense because the same oil is being used to lubricate both the transaxle and differential. As far as torque specs. it says 2009 and later models the transaxle pan bolts are 69 in. lbs. and it gives the pan drain plug as being 36 Ft-Lbs. At least in bold italics it says Torque Specs. are in Ft-lbs unless otherwise stated. There is nothing after the 36. Then again Toyota had 2 different transmissions in those years, a 4 SPD and a 5SPD so was the pan made of different materials? For 2008 and earlier it says the drain plug is 156 in-lbs. As far as the pan bolts for 2005 and earlier 45 in-lbs., 2006 through 2008 156 in-lbs. As far as torque specs. for the filter it doesn't say.
Nice video, i have a remaining of 1 quart of fresh transmission fluid, should i drain only 1 quart and fill it with the remaining quart of the new trans fluid?
Hi this video you did rocks . I have a ? My daughter corola just hit 100k dealership wanted $549 for transmission Oil change I was what lol so I just purchase the oil and filter the service guy told me I should get a 1 gal of ANTIFREEZE/coolant pink color he said I have to change that too have you hurt or find out any inf bout that
To be honest, I noticed no difference at all. Like a lot of preventative maintenance, you're not actually getting an immediate change in performance, you're getting longevity / reliability. Thanks for watching!
I just changed transmission fluid in a Honda CR-V yesterday - I don't know how long the fluid had been in there (a long time!) but I can tell you there was an almost immediate difference. I wasn't trying to fix any driving issues so I had no real expectations, but after a few minutes driving just to mix up the new/old fluids (was doing multiple drain/fills procedure) I realised it was really driving very differently. I was pretty amazed to be honest. It sounds cliched but shifts seemed faster and smoother. When you gave it some gas the revs just seemed to appear, rather than feeling the jolt of a gear shift first. Well worth the effort to drain/fill in that Honda. But as Vance says if you're changing fluids before they deteriorate too much you likely won't ever notice. That was actually just a warm-up to doing my 2003 Corolla which of course includes the extra steps with the replaceable strainer, and why I'm watching this video :-)
@@VancesHowTo You are AWESOME!!! Thank you. Toyota wants $250 for the job, and I think it may be a bit much. I'd pay $150 for the sake of a "dealer job", but I've done transmission filter/fluid changes before and this isn't so bad.
Hello Vance question: is changing the transmission fluid really necessary? Well my Corolla is 106,435 miles and it’s running perfectly let me know please thanks
Hey i have corolla altis 2010 automatic i replace my gear box becz old one was taking jerks on shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. Now after changing i used normal automatic gear oil should i change to WS?
Hello Vance, I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla LE. The online manual says it need between 2.7-3.3 quarts. I have about 3 quarts. The dip stick has the fluid level between the too marks of cold when the fluid is cold. When the fluid is hot it is at the tip of the dip stick below the cold. If I add more to where the fluid is on hot, the fluid will be above the cold marks when the fluid is on cold. I check the dip stick while the car is running(on parked) I’m confused on what to do. Any suggestions?
Vance, may I know that is it a filter at the transmission side and a filter at the oil change side? They are served at different areas? To fill up the transmission, is it 4 bottles of the ATF WS that put back to transmission?
Hey Vance, thank you for the tutorial. Can you please send me the link on where you purchased the tranny filter. I would really appreciate it. I’m planning to change mine pretty soon. Thanks.
Here is the one I bought. It came with the filter and a new pan gasket. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8NTXK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When you took the oil pan off theirs a part thats grayish, like a cylinder, do you know what's that called...I went and hit a curve and broke th oil pan and that cylinder looking part and I don't know if I should replace what broke or the whole transmission, if you can help il appreciate it.
I do my own oil changes but after watching your video I've got the confidence to try the transmission fluid change......thanks for that! Did you end up using 3 or 4 quarts of fluid?
@@VancesHowTo Wow, no wonder it was so black. Ours (2009 RAV4) was black at 28,000 miles. I plan on every 30,000 miles for simple drain and fill and dropping the pan at 90,000 miles.
Because of your awesome video, I was able to do this on my 2012 Corolla today (also gray!). I have 124K miles on the Corolla and was having no problems with the transmission at all. The dipstick says NO NEED TO REPLACE ATF UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS so I put it off until I watched your video. Fluid on the dipstick was a little dark, but not bad. I used Toyota ATF WS fluid, a genuine Toyota pan gasket, a Toyota drain plug gasket, and a WIX filter. Total parts cost was $90 compared to $270 at two local Toyota dealerships, and that price is just a drain and fill, no filter change! You saved me a bunch of money and I got the satisfaction of getting dirty and doing a more complete job. I bought a torque wrench because of you, it worked great, and gave me some piece of mind. Great camera angles and commentary in your video. Thank you for the inspiration, Vance!
That's great! Glad it helped you out!
I've had no "trouble" with my 2012 Corolla except for one area-- I have had to replace 3 of the 4 door lock actuators. Have you experienced any trouble with yours? They don't fail completely all at once, they start to have intermittent problems locking and unlocking. I have had good luck with rebuilt actuators on ebay for $50 to $60. Also, just verified that my VIN number is included in the recent air bag recall involving ECUs that need a noise filter. I already did the front passenger airbag inflator recall.
@@daver5934 Luckily I haven't had any issues with door lock actuators. I'll keep the rebuilt option in mind in case it happens, though. I did get an airbag recall service done a while back. I don't remember anything about an ECU though. I'll check in to that on mine.
@@daver5934 Interesting about your door actuators - I have a 2002 Corolla (same as 2003 US Corolla model, 9th gen) and the rear left door doesn't operate on command with the central locking. But occasionally, like once a week or so, I'll find the damn thing unlocked. I guess it's mostly broken but intermittently does unlock with the rest of the doors - but never locks itself again. So I have to walk around and make sure it's locked any time I go anywhere lol (it's a right-hand drive vehicle). Been on my list to learn how to pull apart the door trim for a long time and see if it's just a bad connection or something. Figured I'd have to replace the actuator though.
I’ve seen many videos about how to change transmission fluid, this is the most useful video . Very organized and clean work !!!!!
Thanks Ameer!
I totally agreed with you this the best DIY by far...
Superb video with the best details of any video/documentation I have seen. Thank you for this. Even the Haynes manual does not have these details.
I agree the video is very well done BUT the Haynes manual does have the torque specs. which DO NOT agree with the ones he used on his 2012. He also didn't mention the fact you should be doing a hot oil change for maximum benefit of draining away sediments. That is also stated in the Haynes Manual and i have never done anything but hot oil changes in anything i own. Every mechanic will tell you the same thing.
Good video. Quite similar to the earlier Corollas, mine is a 1996 AE102 and has the different length strainer bolts you mentioned. A couple of things we did differently, one was tightening the internal bolts ( above the strainer ) to 10 Nm ( 7 ft/lbs) and all were loose, and when securing the pan the bolts were done in a crisscross pattern.
Great video, I am by no means a mechanic, but after watching your video I'm positive I can change both oil/trans fluids +filters. Probably save about 300$ in the process, and I'm also positive I will need to watch again while doing them😁...Thank You Sir👍👍🔧
By far the best how to video man! Aside to the fact that tomorrow morning I’ll be doing the same things to my car, you kept it plain and simple but with enough info and dialogue. Great job man
And no modern bone head music. Thank you for that too. Also, do not torque oil filter cap nut too tight, probably less than you think, if you do not use a torque wrench. I did and had to buy an impact wrench to get it off. Kind of a Mickey mouse clip to hold it in place, I ended up using a piece of metal and a big adjustable hose clamp.
Great video, thank you so much for making this video. I am not a Mechanic, but after watching this video I can do it. God bless you.
I change the synthetic engine oil every 5,000 miles, the transmission fluid/filter every 50,000, and replace antifreeze every 60,000 miles. Keeps my 2012 Corolla running perfectly! Changing antifreeze protects the water pump and prevents head gasket leaks too!
Thanks for posting the 2009-2013 torque values.
I was searching for corolla transmission oil change and found your video
I like the way you do and I love your work.keep good work.
Greetings from Egypt
Thanks!
love the vid! thanks for including the torque specs also
Excellent video and explanation with wonderful details. Especially appreciated the torque values.
Thank you!
Great video, the best part is the transmission pannel and filter replaced. Thanks for your lesson.
He's methodical... and that makes it much clearer.... Be absolutely sure it is well supported and stable on jacks !
The most useful video of changing transmission oil
Thanks!
Nice video, thanks! I’ve found Toyota WS gets very dark very fast. I did a complete flush on my Highlander at 45k miles and it was as dark as yours. Now I change do a drain and fill every year, which is only a few quarts (not the full 12 for a flush). Also, I like the idea of a quick drain valve! I stripped the transmission plug on my Lexus (despite using a torque wrench) and let me tell you, paying $145 for a new pan (parts only) from the dealer down the street is not something I ever wish to repeat!
The drain valve is for the engine oil pan not transmission oil pan.
Thanks. My toyota yaris looks the same. Torque specs i found: 5.75ft-lb for 19bolts, 8ft-lb for the strainer, and 36 ft-lb for the drain bolt
I actually got a comment from a user who pointed out that the torque values I used were for the 2003-2008 Corolla (with 1.8L 1ZZ-FE engine). According to his service manual, the 2009-2013 Corolla (with 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine), has different values:
Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 8 ft-lb
Transmission Pan Bolts - 5.75 ft-lb
Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 36 ft-lb
So the values in my video are a little off:
Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 7 ft-lb
Transmission Pan Bolts - 4 ft-lb
Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 13 ft-lb
Great pace of instruction, nice video clarity and HD crispiness. Thank you for the torque specs and quality of instruction. This was encouraging. I'm out to tackle my 2011 Corolla. Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching!
While the filter is out you could as well tighten the bolts that hold the transmission valve body. They could loosen overtime and tightening them to spec (8 ft-lbs) will improve shifting.
That's a great idea! Thanks for adding that info!
Great video I have seen others with oil splashing everywhere. I just changed mine. One step I did forget was putting a little oil on the o ring. Good idea. Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome! Glad it helped you out!
Excellent video! Greatly appreciated! Perfect amount of
detail and simplicity!
Great video, just did the work. Strainer/good practice worked out well. Nice to do a complete job. Looking forward to more 2012 Corolla videos. Especially rear drum brakes if you happen to need to service or replace them. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Last time I did brakes, the rear ones looked great, so I just did the fronts.
Awesome tutorial brother! Saved me time and money.
Would recommend when doing this to flush cooler out, by finding the cooler return line and putting that into a drain pan and overfilling the trans fluid by around 3 qts and run it until clear
Great job ! Well done, showing the necessity to use a torque wrench. You're good, buddy !
Thanks!
Great video. Very informative and easy to follow. thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
Very nice video , I have a 2012 Corolla and I'm researching this so thanks... as an FYI and possibly a cautionary note, the Haynes repair manual for 2003 thru
2013 Toyota Corolla specifies a torque for the transaxle pan bolts of 69 inch pounds for 2009 thru 2013 vehicles. It specifies 48 inch pounds for 2005 and earlier. Also it specifies for the transaxle drain plug a torque of 36 foot pounds for 2009 and later; and it specs 156 inch pounds (13 foot pounds) for 2003 -2008.
(BTW,it gives no specs for the torque on the strainer bolts, other than to tighten them).
Thanks for watching! The link below is what I found when I researched the tightening torque values. Not sure if I would trust a Haynes manual or not; its up to you. Good luck with the project!
www.tcorolla.net/transmission_valve_body_assy_atm_-1180.html
@@VancesHowTo thanks Vance!... I'll check out the link
Great video and very easy to follow your instructions steps by steps. Good job
I hope you will get more views from toyota fans. Please, keep doing great jobs :-) from Madagascar
Nice work, Vance! You make it look easy.
There is one tip I read about on one of the car forums. Just before you put the gasket on the transmission pan, you can smear the edge with a thin layer of grease or motor oil. This holds the gasket in place. So it's not moving away from where it is supposed to be, as you lift the transmission pan and put the screws in.
Has anyone tried this trick? Ferris Bueller, Ferris Bueller, anyone?
Yes, that works good. Done it many times.
Nice very similar to the avalon. Helps alot thanks. 👍👌
That is a transsmission failure filter (its purpose is to stop chunks of metal from spreading through the tranni if there is a failure). It doesnt need to be replaced. You can just spray it out with some brake cleaner if you want and re install or just leave it alone. It has a steel screan in it.
I didn't know that! Thanks!
Great video, you're very meticulous, thanks for posting.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you very much for filming and posting.
good; slow enough to show all the needed steps. With a secure lift method and a torque wrench, we can do it ourselves.
Thank you, this video was super helpful! Going to attempt it on my 2013 corolla.
Completed the atf drain and fill with zero problems. Your video was super helpful! I bought the same filter from Amazon and fluid from Toyota. Saved me over $290 for what the dealership would have charged! Thank you!!
That's great to hear! Thanks for your comments! Saving money is always a good thing!
Very clean work and useful
Good job man keep it up
Thanks!
Well done. Choice of oil filter cap wrench is right on (although the Motivx MX2321 may fit better). And drawing attention to the torque spec is a plus. I would trust you to change my oil and that earns you a thumbs up.
Only thing that I can mention is that the official instructions say not to use a pick or screwdriver to remove or install the o-ring. While I feel that is a bit anal, it's probably worth mentioning that if a person is going to use one of those be careful not to damage that plastic oil filter cap. 😉
I would also fill the engine oil up to closer to the full mark on the dip-stick. And I would take the car for a 20 minute drive to warm up the transmission hopefully to operating temperature and check that transmission fluid dipstick to see if it was in the hot zone as it should be. Technically the transmission fluid is suppose to be between 158°F and 176°F but since Toyota doesn't give you a gauge to read that, you kinda have to cross your fingers. 😉😏
Greta video. Thanks for sharing that information.
Excellent video. Thanks for producing.
Thanks!
Great video man
You may want to inform us how many QTS you put in , and where to it should be when it gets hot the mark on the dip stick thanks for that demonstration also everyone should know that to change out the trans fluid ,all of it the cost is 300 dollars at Toyota dealer 15 QTS just FYI guys and should be done every 60,000 miles
Appreciate your help.
good video! I learned much! I will try to do it!
Thanks brother great video
Well in Going to do it this week. Thanks for tutoriall
How did everything work out?
Looks like the torque spec info you got were for the previous generation (03-08) Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE engine and automatic transmission. That's why the strainer bolts were the same length instead of different lengths like you had read and why only three quarts got drained out instead of the 4 you had read should have drained. Also the reason why you thought the transmission fluid drain pan bolt was so low, It's supposed to be torqued tighter to crush and seal the aluminum gasket/washer.
Here are the correct torque specs for that U341E Automatic transmission from the service manual for your car with the 2ZR-FE 1.8 Motor.
Transmission Fluid strainer bolts - 8ft-lbf
19 Pan bolts for the transmission - 69in-lbf
Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 36ft-lbf
Thanks, Rob! That's great information. I'll post this in my video description for anyone else who needs it.
Great video, thank you!
Nice video i seen so far on ATF flush!
This was a atf CHANGE, NOT a flush. don't post what you don't know, you'll deviate people from the truth
Nice job!
Great video brother thanks
Very informative video! Thank you 👍🏻
Vance, that petcock drain valve has a very low flow as compared to removing the regular drain plug. I feel the quick rush of the oil is better to flush out the oil pan. Petcock could also be knocked off if road debris flys up and hits it.
Those are definitely good points. My only complaint is how long you have to wait for the oil to drain with that valve.
Great job thank you for the video
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Very useful. Thank you !
Damn your oil filter cap was so easy to come off 😲 wish mine was like that Lmao 😂 going to use a impact wrench soon when I do my maintenance
Make sure not to tighten it too hard. I made that mistake and it took me forever to get it off.
hey would you happen to know if the differential is lubed by transmission oil? i am trying to find out if the differential takes a different type of oil but cannot seem to get a direct answer. From what im getting so far is that once you perform a transmission oil change you are also doing differential oil change as well
Make sure to read the description for updated torque specs. The trans drain plug is 36 ft-lbs, not 13 ft-lbs.
Great video!!!!
Very professional, Thankyou.
Thanks!
Good job!
Fantastic thank you for sharing sir.
Like the tutorial on the transmission oil and filter change! Now, How well the after market drain plug (engine oil) works? Did you trust on it? 2010 Corolla owner
It works great. I have used these little valves on my cars and on my tractor for years. Never had a problem. They are a great product!
Hi. Didnt this transmission drain plug have another plastic drain plug within that needed a hex key to remove which in turn drains more fluid?😮
Very good video.
Outstanding video!!! Ty.
Thanks!
Buen Video - Excellent Video
You're actually supposed to do a star pattern when putting the transmission pan back on never torque down those bolts n a counter clock position that could throw your pan off, and or push your gasket out. And then it would leak and your transmission would be ruined due to low transmission fluid it could even damage the transmission just an FYI guys but all in all he did a good job, just remember guys all the torque specs are correct just remember to do that star pattern and you'll be good later.
Good catch! Well, I'm not perfect :-). In general, you are correct to use a criss-cross tightening pattern. In this case I went around the perimeter multiple times, adding more torque each time, which is also a good method. In reality, the final round would have been better with criss-cross, but I didn't want to miss one, so I went around the perimeter. It was a reliable method to ensure I didn't forget to tighten one of them. Another reason why its ok in this case is because the torque is so low. Criss-cross is more important when the torque values are high. About 30K miles since this job with no leaks, so in this case my method was certainly ok. Thanks for watching!
How is the transmission? I thought the fluid would be T-IV , it usually says what's required on the end of the transmission dip stick.
Thanks for the video but I have a question do we have change both oil at same time or we can change the transmission oil only?
Transmission Fluid Drain Plug - 36 ft-lb??
That is a lot of torque for that drain plug...are you sure?
36x12=432
Nice video 👏
Thanks!
Is there an alternative way to clean the oil strainer rather than replacing them?
One thing you didn't mention was the importance of doing a hot oil change for both the engine and transaxle because hot oil is more effective than cold oil in carrying away suspended sediments. The Haynes Manual for 2003-2013 Corollas states there is also a drain plug in the differential to be removed, which makes sense because the same oil is being used to lubricate both the transaxle and differential. As far as torque specs. it says 2009 and later models the transaxle pan bolts are 69 in. lbs. and it gives the pan drain plug as being 36 Ft-Lbs. At least in bold italics it says Torque Specs. are in Ft-lbs unless otherwise stated. There is nothing after the 36. Then again Toyota had 2 different transmissions in those years, a 4 SPD and a 5SPD so was the pan made of different materials? For 2008 and earlier it says the drain plug is 156 in-lbs. As far as the pan bolts for 2005 and earlier 45 in-lbs., 2006 through 2008 156 in-lbs. As far as torque specs. for the filter it doesn't say.
Nice tutorial
Thanks!
Toyota has the most reliable engine.
Very well done, thanks
Thank you!
Nice video, i have a remaining of 1 quart of fresh transmission fluid, should i drain only 1 quart and fill it with the remaining quart of the new trans fluid?
I would not. You never actually drain all of it out anyway. You end up mixing fresh fluid in with some old fluid. Its still an improvement.
Hi this video you did rocks . I have a ? My daughter corola just hit 100k dealership wanted $549 for transmission Oil change I was what lol so I just purchase the oil and filter the service guy told me I should get a 1 gal of ANTIFREEZE/coolant pink color he said I have to change that too have you hurt or find out any inf bout that
Great video, one question for you, did you notice a difference in the driving After you changed the fluid? Thank you.
To be honest, I noticed no difference at all. Like a lot of preventative maintenance, you're not actually getting an immediate change in performance, you're getting longevity / reliability. Thanks for watching!
I just changed transmission fluid in a Honda CR-V yesterday - I don't know how long the fluid had been in there (a long time!) but I can tell you there was an almost immediate difference. I wasn't trying to fix any driving issues so I had no real expectations, but after a few minutes driving just to mix up the new/old fluids (was doing multiple drain/fills procedure) I realised it was really driving very differently. I was pretty amazed to be honest. It sounds cliched but shifts seemed faster and smoother. When you gave it some gas the revs just seemed to appear, rather than feeling the jolt of a gear shift first. Well worth the effort to drain/fill in that Honda. But as Vance says if you're changing fluids before they deteriorate too much you likely won't ever notice. That was actually just a warm-up to doing my 2003 Corolla which of course includes the extra steps with the replaceable strainer, and why I'm watching this video :-)
Thanks for sharing . Can you tell me that many quarters you used. It’s 3 or 4 ?
Can you add the kit you used and the type of fluid in the description? Great video BTW, well done and enjoyed the clarity.
Toyota 00289-ATFWS Lexus & Automatic Transmission Fluid WS ATF World Standard, Pack of 4
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTUSEMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ATP B-207 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8NTXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@VancesHowTo You are AWESOME!!! Thank you. Toyota wants $250 for the job, and I think it may be a bit much. I'd pay $150 for the sake of a "dealer job", but I've done transmission filter/fluid changes before and this isn't so bad.
@@MrKen59 Yes, its really only about $75 in parts, so you stand to save $175 if you do it yourself. Go for it!
Hello Vance question: is changing the transmission fluid really necessary? Well my Corolla is 106,435 miles and it’s running perfectly let me know please thanks
Hey i have corolla altis 2010 automatic i replace my gear box becz old one was taking jerks on shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. Now after changing i used normal automatic gear oil should i change to WS?
Hello Vance, I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla LE. The online manual says it need between 2.7-3.3 quarts. I have about 3 quarts. The dip stick has the fluid level between the too marks of cold when the fluid is cold. When the fluid is hot it is at the tip of the dip stick below the cold. If I add more to where the fluid is on hot, the fluid will be above the cold marks when the fluid is on cold. I check the dip stick while the car is running(on parked) I’m confused on what to do. Any suggestions?
非常专业！👍👍👍👍👍
Hi, ia your corolla transmission a Cvt K111 or a K311? Tanks!!!
Vance, may I know that is it a filter at the transmission side and a filter at the oil change side? They are served at different areas? To fill up the transmission, is it 4 bottles of the ATF WS that put back to transmission?
Yes, the transmission fluid filter is different than the engine oil filter. Transmission fluid needed for the fluid change is 4 quarts.
Nice video, thanks. Where did you buy all your parts?
Mr Vence thank you for the video. By the way do you know what it is the code p1602?
Hey Vance, thank you for the tutorial. Can you please send me the link on where you purchased the tranny filter. I would really appreciate it. I’m planning to change mine pretty soon. Thanks.
Here is the one I bought. It came with the filter and a new pan gasket.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8NTXK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@VancesHowTo Thanks
What is your opinoin of rtv sealant gasket maker in addition to the gasket?
Older model Corollas have 2 short 1 long bolt for the filter.
Hi dear, I have Axio 2013. Do we need to do any calibration after the transmission oil change..?
When you took the oil pan off theirs a part thats grayish, like a cylinder, do you know what's that called...I went and hit a curve and broke th oil pan and that cylinder looking part and I don't know if I should replace what broke or the whole transmission, if you can help il appreciate it.
Is it the part I replaced? That's the transmission fluid strainer. Otherwise, you may want to get it looked at by a mechanic.
thank for you video
I do my own oil changes but after watching your video I've got the confidence to try the transmission fluid change......thanks for that!
Did you end up using 3 or 4 quarts of fluid?
If I remember correctly, it was 3 quarts. I bought 4, and had one left over unused.
Thanks Vance!
Very detailed :):):)
Is it recommended to change out the transmission pan bolts? Thank you for the video too!
I've never heard of replacing the pan bolts before.
Very good vids Sir, keep it going. How many miles when transmission oil was change.
I did the fluid change at about 100K miles.
@@VancesHowTo
Wow, no wonder it was so black. Ours (2009 RAV4) was black at 28,000 miles. I plan on every 30,000 miles for simple drain and fill and dropping the pan at 90,000 miles.
if i drainout the torque conventer, how many liters does it take for corolla 2009???