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PEX A vs PEX B: What's the Difference?
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
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Exactly what I want. Clearly, concise information in 4 minutes and 9 seconds. All done without a blaring soundtrack. Bravo sir. Thank you.
4 minutes? It was perfect at 2x speed in 2 mins ;) Great video!
Amen.
Double Bravo. Ought to be youtube Law
Exactly
ok now I'm confused I was always told that PEX A was more resistant to bursting as it has the ability to expand and then memory retract hence the expansion tool is needed to add couplings or valves into it. PEX B is much more rigid and I would there fore expect to to be more prone to bursting in a freeze situation
A couple of things I would add. The inner diameter can be different on Pex-A and Pex-B. For instance we sell Uponor pipe with Wirsbo fittings. The fittings themselves have less restrictions than other types that we sell, so there is more flow. Also, the cold expansion products are forever trying to close and are less likely, if ever to have a leak. So our plumbers really like that.
So much more straight forward and to the point. Better then most other videos.
Thanks a lot Bob
Best video on the difference between the two pipes! Un-biased, providing a fair evaluation of the characteristic of both pipes…all in just a few minutes.
Except he failed to mention the most important difference! PEX-B has flow restrictions from fitting being smaller diameter, whereas PEX-A uses expansion fittings and does not have loss of flow...
Good video with no wasted time talking about irrelevant stuff or some sound track that no one wants to hear. I only have experience with Pex A. I find that most professional plumbers I know use Pex A but that might be a regional thing. Couple of other differences - Pex A has a larger inside diameter for the same corresponding size (more water flow) and the expansion fittings from Uponor are quick to install and once connected the pipe can actually be rotated around the fitting without leaking. On the down side, Pex A is not as readily available as Pex B which is sold in the big box stores like HD & Lowes
I think you forgot to mention that PEX A with expansion fittings have very little loss in line diameter at the fittings ; where PEX B has a greater line loss diameter do to fittings. Other than that I found your video very informative and in my opinion one of the best videos out there on this subject. Keep up the good work and thanks.
Have you ever tried looking up to find out exactly what those head losses are and how they compare?
you say that but if you are connecting each to the same fitting neither will be smaller or bigger than the fitting itself because they go on the outside not the inside.
@@HyperPiperunscripted You are correct. The uponor system is best. You don't have the volume and friction reduction as you would in crimp pex. Half inch crimp pex fittings will reduce to three eighths at all connection in half inch.
@@HyperPiperunscripted not all fittings go on the outside. expansion and crimp go inside and last longer and expansion has a larger inner diameter.
How do the newest shark bite connections work with pex. Good yes? Hope so. Just wanna get rid of all copper in my houses, sick of the pin holes and the panic when we have several freezing days in a row.
Most my plumbing is retrofit / replacement. Usually do 2-4 bedroom two stories with a basement. I use PEX B 10' sticks, I don't even bother with the coil. It might cost a couple bucks more but there's no hassle of the coil, especially when it's cold out. I'm not doing new builds, if I have to splice a couple together it's no big deal. So much easier to work with the sticks. I've used enough coil in my day you might have less splicing but you spend far more time trying to straighten it out.
yeah for simple repairs that probably the way to go . As DIY , just made a repair on galvanized pipe and it was tough . never again hopefully . Just too unforgiving galvanized . And it was section with three close nipples , two unions , two tees and an elbow . Three lines geez
most of what i have done is 10 foot sticks of pex B never had any issues are call backs.
Wow, I’ve watched two of your videos and both professional and to the point, clear concise, thanks I appreciate the education!
My compliments, PEX Universe, outstandingly well done!!! No BS, clear, concise. Only comment is a repeat of a previous comment that the pressure drop with A is less (better) than with B, because the fittings do not reduce the effective diameter, not an insignificant difference, especially when the copper tube community points this out accurately and repeatedly. Keep up the good work. Bill
Thank you very much Bill! Great comment, next video where we talk about that difference we'll be sure to mention it!
One of the biggest differences that you didn't mention was throughput and pressure drop.
Expansion fittings (only safe to use with PEX-A) have a wider inner diameter, meaning less flow loss than inserts with metal-crimp fittings. Of course, you want to use as few fittings a possible in any case, but with crimp fittings you lose significant throughput and to some degree, pressure with each one. When using expansion fittings on PEX-A, this is much less. This is particularly important if you are working with on-side water systems (i.e. wells) which are often set for lower water pressure than city water systems.
There are many videos on UA-cam demonstrating that expansion fittings work with both Pex-a & Pex-b-------therefore, your advice is spurious.
Zurn Industries makes cold expansion fittings for PEX B pipe.
This is probably the most important difference between the two and he completely missed this.
I measured the inside diameter of the pex a expansion fittings and the pex b crimp ring fittings and they are the same so same flow.
@derrickm9808 How is that possible? Think about it for a moment. Both pipes, Pex A & B, have the same inner diameter (ID). You use an expansion tool to widen the ID of a Pex A pipe and ring so you could insert the fittings into the pipe. Notice that pushing those fittings into Pex A pipe without the expansion tool is impossible. Conversely, when you push a Pex B fitting into a Pex B pipe it goes in easily because then you'd use the crimp ring to achieve the tight grip. This just tells you that Pex B fittings are smaller than Pex A fittings since they do not require expanding the pipe in order to be able to insert them. Without a larger OD fitting of type A than the ID of the Pex A pipe there would be a huge design flaw and a guaranteed leak every time. The fittings therefore have got to be larger than those of the Pex B type. It's really a no-brainer.
I had all my old iron piping which was pretty must closed up on the inside and reducing water flow replaced with pex B. Love it
We have that problem it sucks
This channel is probably the best-all-around videos for people new to PEX (like me). Informative, clear, concise, and not 25 minutes long. MAGA...
Much appreciated James
yes true
MAGA, you idiot.
MAGA FOR SURE!
MPEA. MAKE PLUMBING EASY AGAIN.
I’d love to replumb with copper K but the hard water from the Colorado River and the chloroamine treatments here in Southern California have the reputation of causing pitting and leaks in as little as a decade. So for the main line from the street I’m probably going with 1 inch Pex A with expansion fittings and then as much manifold pex A piping inside the house as I can. But while I’ve got the trench open, I’m going to install a backup CPVC Schedule 80 1 inch line, capped at both ends. Cheap insurance in case of problems with the primary line.
Clear, concise, informative and to the point. Well Done!
My question I bought a roll of pex A 1/2× 300' to replumb my home. Also plumb cabin. My brother has the yellow Appollo ratcheting stainless steel cinch tool. They said at big box hardware store can only use expansion power pex fittings . They said stainless chinch rings and copper squeeze ring will leak on type A.
Good information!! I’m a do it yourself guy. I started working with PEX about a year ago. I thought all PEX was the same. Thanks!!
1:57 PEX-a has the highest level of cross linking...correct. However, the amount of cross linking is not the only factor to do with pipe strength and durability.
I'm using PEX-B to make art pieces but now I really want to try PEX-A. I never even knew there was a difference. I'm especially interested in the heat-treatment and heat-resistance aspect since I'm using heat to make my pieces. Thanks for the info!
Didn’t catch it if you mentioned that Pex A is more resistant to freeze damage which could result in a lot of other damages in a home.
What about the chemical leaching from these pipes? Harmful? Can be filtered out?
Love this! Give us the facts and your points of view up front and with quick explanations. I like very few videos. However, this is worth
PEX-A was developed and used in German in the 1940’s and has the longest history. PEX-B started in the 1970’s,
One of the PEX’s, probably PEX-B, had and may still have a problem with leaking fittings from too much zinc in the brass alloy.
There is also PEX-C and PEX-D.
PEX has three weak links:
It become brittle and crazed by UV light, a couple months in the sun, or maybe a couple years under fluorescent lights.
It’s chewable by rodents who want to enlarge a pipe hole
It is slowly destroyed by oxygen and maybe other chemicals dissolved in potable water over a century
Hello it looks like you made a point I heard years ago when PEX was new on the Market. I heard talk about rodents mice could shoot through the pipes and cause problems leaking. Now many years later I haven't heard of one person claiming to have a problem with rodents chewing through the pipes. Do you have first-hand knowledge of rodents causing damage to PEX pipe? I'm not trying to be smart I'm just looking for information thank you.
@@barrett9631 ua-cam.com/video/2PzkV4JTRUY/v-deo.html
Well, from now I will change my plumbing materials to pex A, good video!
Yes what Bob y commented, type A has a true size diameter as to which type B using compression fitting loses size. Another type type A manufacturer also includes "Apollo" and also has atleast a 3x faster connection to fitting speed with no effort compared to a ring crimper. Another note is the fittings used in type A can be turned even after installed inside the collar rings when using a T or 90, not sure if type B has that ability. I am certified by uponor which also comes with 100% lifetime warranty on their products and the damages that are ever caused when installed.
you seem to know your stuff... why did he say pex a has a lower bursting pressure... as I previously learned it had a higher burst pressure which makes sense since it expands so well.
No effort if you have a $400 expander.
What sold me on PEX-A is the fittings. Its immediately obvious when one is installed incorrectly. Poor crimps to PEX-B can sometimes be missed. I've also seen videos of corrosion on the crimp rings leading to leaks years later.
I've learned that metal fatigue also eventually leads to leaks with PEX-B. Less than 5 years in some cases.
What do you guys recommend to use?
If you use pex B the fittings will down size the pipe diameter one pipe diameter, very noticeable on an outside faucet, a tub ect
yeah, he didnt mention the MOST important factor of bottleneck capacity reduction.
I will also would like to echo all the comments about this video. Straight to the point, without all the BS. I am going with Pex A for my retro fitting of my old house. Two reasons are that Pex A fittings are cold expansion and does not restrict the flow volume. But I was also lead to believe Pex A would expand in freezing situations more than Pex B. But after watching a lot of videos. They both have close to 1000 PSI before they burst. And both have similar freeze burst rate. Pex B doing slightly better than Pex A. But not a significant difference. I will be using pipe insulation on all my Pex A pipe that will be under my old house. That was built in 1905. On pier and beam foundation. Pex A is more expensive, but the big box stores are now carrying most of the Pex A pipe and fittings. Just make sure to Use Pex A fittings on Pex A pipe. There is a difference. That is the main thing I disagree with the video. There is a difference between Pex A and Pex B fittings.
Nice to see a concise and to the point video on UA-cam
Biggest difference is pex a is full true Id when using the expansion tool. This is very important in well systems where pex b with crimp rings reduces flow a good amount.
Sounds like PEX-A is good for larger diameter main lines (3/4") and PEX-B is better for smaller single runs (!/2") off a manifold.
@@DevilTravels Half inch Pex B off a manifold is roughly 3/8"... I do not understand the attraction of Pex B for this fact. I want water flow. My water pressure, and more than likely everyone else here is good on that, be it well or city water. The water flow is what makes the difference.
No theatrics just facts...luv it
I've worked for all three types of PEX manufactures, some of your information is correct and some not enough information. PEX A, B and C, have Pro's and Con's, but all three meet the strict NSF guidelines.
theres no pros to PEX-B other than cost. inferior in every other way
Excellent video, concise and to the point without goofy nonsense and fluff. Well done!
Pex is manufactured with some UV resistance however, Pex was intended to be used indoors only.
Zurn makes pex-b tubing that works with expansion fittings.
I am having a hard time understanding that and I even looked at zurn's site. Always thought A was expansion, B crimp
@@FixthisCD Zurn B can use them
Interesting comment about bursting pressure vs freezing. I would think that flexibility in the PEX A is the answer to possible freezing, not absolute burst pressure of PEX B.
Exactly what concerned me about this video.
So does he mean that pex A would be more likely to burst as opposed to B?
I used to use pexA for crimping but then the suppliers stopped carrying it . Really was was softer and easier to work with than those damn rolls of pexB , especially in the colder temps. Its almost impossible to straighten out PexB below 40 degrees.
Regarding cross linking degree , I do agree with you that A has higher degree ,, but its not an advantage, as there are standards that governs the minimum cross linking degree to enable the pipe to do its function.
Thanks
I'd like to see an actual freeze test of pex A vs B. The bursting pressure is lower but ice only expands so far and pex A is more forgiving upon expansion. So in a freeze situation I'm wandering if A would just expand where B might crack? Let's say if freezing water expands 9% but from what I understand can push 30,000 psi of force then stretchy pipe is better than strong pipe when neither can hold the force correct? Those are the actual figures of expansion from water to ice I've found so far. So wouldn't pex A be far better if the pipes froze?
@TerraTN if so I'd recommend using the same copper crimps as other pex which can be used as well on pex A. Metal shrinks as it gets colder so that should solve that
Matt Reisinger on UA-cam has a few great videos on these subjects. Check out his page
Brandon Bailey ua-cam.com/video/WMEbIxj4kRs/v-deo.html&feature=share
Sorry her is one of the right direct links ua-cam.com/video/fT2ftQ_ab-w/v-deo.html&feature=share
ua-cam.com/video/OOeBJ8mDr8Q/v-deo.html
According to "Integrity Repiping" Pex B also has expansion fittings but he admits that it's stiffer and a bit more difficult to work with. In his video he does NOT seem to be using Pex A expansion fittings because he shows using a special expansion adapter head on a regular electric expander tool.
Brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know in 4 minutes! Thanks.
I plumed my 3,000 sqft house with copper in 98', all the cons you mentioned about Pex B is nothing compared to working with copper. Cons with Copper: hand rotation cuts with pipe cutter, sanding each end, adding flux, heating just right, sticking solder in the joint, sniffing out leaks, hoping your house don't burn down, dealing with stiff straight tube that can not be bent, undoing solder joints, I had a burst water pipe from a freeze, wrong cut? Cha-Ching $$$ screwing up can be expensive. So I'm really looking forward to all the cons with Pex B on my next project.
Other thing to consider is the cost of the crimping tool versus the expanding one, of course I talking about a battery one, you will hate the manual expanding one very early In to you day.
Ya, but you don't have to got to the gym after day of expanding with a hand tool!
Very professional introduction on PEXA and PEXB. Recently years PEXa is increasing , the PEXa pipe extrusion machinery seems available in more and more machinery manufacturers.
Very informative fast facts without any slow chatter. Deciding if A or B for my DIY jobs. I like A with expansion fittings(less restrictive) & flexible pipe. I don't trust the Shark oring connectors so would not use. Chemical leaching on A is a concern. I don't understand what problems the less chemical bonding with B would be?
Really good video. Straight to the point.
"Up-on-'er" Bwahahahahaha!!! Damn... that was great. Best thing you've ever said kiddo.
Also check out PE-RT and expansionable Zurn Pex B piping.
PE-RT pipe is recyclable, and allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramine.
Very nice! So, all connection fittings can go on A or B Pex. Except for expansion fittings which can only go into Pex A. Did I get that correct?
It's very critical to me about your mentioning of chemical leaching! I can only imagine greatly and bad things such as Cancers from getting chemicals onto a person's body after many years of getting showers...!
As soon as I heard chemical leaching I drew back a bit. Now I'm not so sure I want to use PEX just for that reason alone.
I cancelled a repipe job once I learned about the chemical leaching in PEX A. We are replacing copper pipes with lead solder and no point in replacing with more troublesome pipes. Have any scientific studies been done?
Thanks so much for this information I really appreciate it.
Yo, thank you, my guy! got right to the point and answered every question I had. Dayum Boyeee!!
THANK YOU I LEARNED A LOT WATCHING THIS .
Thanks so much... I wasn't sure which pex was installed in my house and as I tinker, I've been using Nibco from Menards but was concerned about whether I was using the right fittings or not. Good to know you can use the same fittings regardless of the A or B originally used.
PEX A is "Real PEX" in my book and many pro installers who started using it for radiant jobs in the '80's... this is the stuff that can withstand slabs jutting, freeze/thaw, concrete trucks running over it, etc. etc. Expensive and well worth it if you're installing something you can't easily access later. To me, the current "Big box" craze of homeowners running PEX B all over the place with dozens of crimp/barb fittings is a future disaster waiting to happen. Every one of those crimp sleeves represents a potential leak IMO. I hope I'm wrong, but history repeats LOL. Furthermore there are now concerns about PEX B supporting all kinds of microbial growth on the inside of the pipe. Another time-bomb waiting to bite everyone IMO. If you're going to run PEX B for domestic plumbing then use a 'home run" system and manifold, and avoid as many fittings as you can. Just my .02. Me - I'd probably still run copper.
Excellent video. Great info w zero bs.
I'm not a fan of Type A, not only is it more expensive but sounds like Lego to me. Also there are no long-term studies on the grip between the expanded pipe/ring and the pipe itself and how it is affected by prolonged heat. If a heat gun can have that immediate effect of the pipe (I realize we are talking about high heat) then heat for longer periods might also have an effect. Those pipes are approved for hot water usage so anything could go wrong there over time.
The only advantages I see of a Pex A piping system are flexibility especially when working in narrow spaces and the lower pressure drop due to larger fittings.
Great presentation. Clear, concise and to the point.
Which would you use for 1) connection to lawn irrigation from well. 2) house plumbing with Culligan purification system.??
PEX is being considered more now for home made swimming pool solar heating. Which best resists higher concentrations of Chlorine and other chemicals not found in City water?
Expansion fittings are now available for Zurn Pex B
In all of the years i've been around these 2 products,I have never seen pex A have a hairline split down the side, unlike pex B.
one major benefit of pex A is the fittings for pex A have a larger radius for water flow...
Answered my question in the first minute, thank you!
I like the colored one better. Feel happy with colors while you work 👌😁
Which is better for underground installation?
Thank you for just getting to the point.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
My bad, I thought this vid was about PEZ....carry on.
PEX-a is harder to manufacture then PEX-b because the crosslinking process is done on the production line, thus the extrusion process is much slower the PEX-b or PEX-c, because you have to allow the needed time for the peroxide doing the crosslinking process under high pressure and heat to take place whereas PEX-b or PEX-c the crosslinking is done after the pipe is made either in steam of gamma radiation treatment. PEX-a is done in a "starving fed system" whereas PEX-b and PEX-c are flood fed system.
Zurn a manufacturer of pex b says you can use expansion fittings.
I like Pex A better and have the tools for the expansion fittings but I did not know about the leaching issues with pex a which concerns me. It would be nice if someone would come out with a version of pex b that allows me to use my expansion tool with either Uponor or Souix expansion collars.
It would be nice if someone would come out with a version of PEX A with a copper liner for portable water lines... Since they make PEX-Al-PEX tubing thats designed to be used in heating application, so a PEX-Cu is do able...until then use copper for portable water lines...
Recently watched a video by Integrity Plumbing claiming that Pex B made by Zurn is expandable and therefore compatible with Uponor fittings.
what is the difference between Pex pipe and black polyethylene and also which is better to use for underground use to outdoor faucets?
I want to make sure I bought the correct pipe how do I know if my pipe is pex B?
I found your website last night and the UA-cam channel today. You should mention the UA-cam channel somewhere in the top of the page header on the website. Some really good info on the website and UA-cam channel. And a good source for supplies.
Ron
The word temperature is not spelled correctly...good info though, thanks.
Can you tell me then why is Zurn claiming there Pex-B can be used with expansion ?
It can, it is pretty much like Pex A, expansion and all, including the battery operated tools, though with different heads than what comes with the Uponor tools. But, you can use the uponor expansion tool with the Zurn. Now, try to find Zurn Pex, I cannot find it, sticking with Uponor Pex A.
I’ve have used copper. Cpvc. Pex A and B they all have there limitations
Don’t be fooled by Advertising if installed right. They will all last a long time
Just dont put cpvc where it can be jostled at all.....CRACK....SPEWWWW...🙀🙀🙀
Very informative and straight to the key points. Great video and thank you!
Pex B connectors have very tiny inside diameters decreasing the water flow pressure. Expanding Pex A connectors don't cause dimension changes issue
i waa wondering, i saw in store 3/4” PEX pipe which were white and another one which was white but the interior was black. what’s the difference? does it use same crimping ring….etc.
Excellent information. Thank you..
Thanks for the information
Which is better for outdoor freezing weather?
While all three PEX A, B, and C are able to withstand the cold, PEX A and B are the most commonly used. PEX C is not as durable as the other two but with either choice A or B they will work great.
Another downside to pex b is that the fittings go inside the pipe - which constricts the water flow.
Great videos. Concise and to the point. Thank you.
What ever you do don't use it outside where sun will be hitting on it . It will weather rot quick. l learned that the hard way . It is a inside tubing only.
I thought the red is the exact same as blue, just different colors to identify hot or cold domestic water, and that orange pex is for radiant heating...
Jgriffin0808081 you are correct about the red, blue and white pex.
The orange is oxygen Barrier pex used in heating it keeps the oxygen out of the system which will deteriorate your heating system if it can migrate through the pipe.
Extremely informative. I wandered here trying to figure out how to tee a pex pipe, and figured I'd better know the difference before I got started on my project (honestly didn't even know there were two different kinds til this video. Starting from scratch here). Thank you!
Thanks! great concise info
I’ve heard that Zurn also makes a superior PEX A and B. But you didn’t mention that name brand. Is it not available where you are at?
Very good video, now I understand the difference. We installed white PEX from Home Depot, they said it is PEX-B. Yes, it has a memory, our 25 foot coil was a bugger-bear working with. To allow us to unroll it we used our muscles and a heat gun, it took a long time getting it straight enough for our eighteen foot run, then used two Sharkbite connectors. Because of the PEX-B memory, at present my thinking is I will not again use PEX-B.
At 1:17, the graphic reads “pressure and tepmerature...”, it should read “...temperature...”.
It's sometimes not easy to find Pex-A at the consumer level, as it's often only stocked at plumbing supply stores, but now with all the online options, has become easier to source out. The installation tool is not cheap, but may be available to rent.
A few incomplete comment bits . Pex-a Will burst at a lower pressure (though higher than you would ever allow in home plumbing ) HOWEVER Pex -a will survive the expansion of a freeze much more likely than Pex-b . (you can't expand Pex-b to fit expansion fitting that Pex-a is primarily used with .)
That sounds intuitively correct, but do you have any empirical data about freeze performance of A-vs-B?
@@pterafirma The plastic itself is not going to crumble when frozen so the only force is the expansion of the freezing water . And water expansion will come no where near the expansion force of huge stretch that happens in putting pex A onto a fitting . (for sure Pex A exceeds Pex B and both far exceed the burst point of copper). (no empirical evidence but I am sure some one has some)
Where did you get your data that Pex-A leaches more chemicals than Pex-B. Could you post a reference please?
Great video, short, too the point, no useless visual or grating musical distractions.
Also, you look like a young Kai from Lexx, and not sure why the better cross-linking of Pex-A is of any use since overall Pex-B seems to have superior ratings on things like burst pressure. PS- Can you straighten out the Pex-B with a little heat from a heat-gun?
no it will melt. Collapse further.
thank you , way more help ! then the none helping LOWES employees
😆
My plastic Pex manifold is bogus. The plastic fittings get warm from the hot water and leak. Any advice? Female brass fittings on my plastic manifold OK?
So can I use pex A with standard pex fitings and can I use Pex A with CINCH rings/ clamps not using the expanding tool but just slipping on the pex A on the fitting and use a cinch clamp? thanks
I have not used pex so I have been doing some research. I initially was sold on Pex A but have come across some videos that make me hesitant to go with A. One thing, Pex A cannot be used with the cool Viega manifold system. Another reason, some of the fixtures like Delta or Kohler do not readily accept that expansion connections. Is there a work around to these problems?
You should be able to use pex a or b on the manifold since it's a compression connection. As for fixtures there is a 1/2" pex x 3/8 compression fitting. Take the compression nut and ring off and the supply line screws right to the fitting. You can get these for pex a or b, expansion, crimp, compression etc
Chlorinated water effects on A & B piping? discuss that too
Dear sir,
Would you agree that PexA is better in houses that suffer frost attacks yearly, ie that it is easier for pex A to 'bloat' due to ice expansion and then move back to its original size?
What if I use sharkbite push connector on a pex-a will it reduce the pressure ?
Do you have any details on PE-RT piping?
Great and concise summary. Thanks!