So many project Kermit videos so close to Christmas is like Santa coming early! 😂 Really glad that even though they are close together, the quality is the same as everything else you produce!
Are you going to fishplate all these sections of chassis where you butted two sections together? Going to be a weak spot in the chassis due to all the heat at the welds.
Seems like Land Rovers where built to "close enough", there is a fellow in New Zealand that is going through similar issues. He is Geoffrey Croker, great videos and funny guy.
I really enjoy watching your videos. What I really like is following your thought process, like figuring out where the rear cross member or the out riggers are supposed to go. Keep up the enthusiasm for the restoration, I think I would have panicked by now. I need a cuppa before the next episode 👍🏻
Still watching! 😉 Great work. I’m glad you rebuilt the original dumb irons. The Britpart replacements I used on mine were horribly inaccurate and thin. I was glad to replace the chassis with new a few years later (though that Marsland unit had misaligned components all over, including the spring bolt holes on the dumb irons, which needed a lot of rectification during the rebuild). I hope the outriggers you used are better than my dumb irons; a lot can change in 15 years, and Britpart are supposed to be trying to up their game.
I am starting a 1959 S2 2 litre diesel in the autumn for use on the farm. This has been really helpful as I thought I would rebuild my chassis, but having seen how much work has gone into this I have decided to get a Richard’s chassis as mine is in far worse condition. Brilliant video that made me laugh, especially when you were trying to work out the correct positions. Land Rover at its best, give or take 1/2 inch!
When I did my chassis, because I hoped to be towing, I took the opportunity to make up some diamonds, which I welded on, top and bottom to the rear cross member to give it a bit of extra strength...T B H I also welded on a drilled heavy plate, to spread the toad behind the tow hook attachments points....all stuff that it is easy to do while the chassis is on the bench.
Land rovers are like the story of the old family axe it's had a new shaft and the steel has been replaced and fixed many times but it's the axe that's been passed down for generations. Original Aluminium Landies are mostly still on the road upto 70%
Dear Mr Thumper. Excellent work as usual. I eagerly await further progress on this job. My Early Fords have open channel chassis. I can't help thinking Land Rover made a bad decision by utilising a boxed frame. So much potential for trapped moisture. It will be great when you get it all done and prepared and can start to put the various components back onto it. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Max you've spoken about your generator before, I'm sure, but as you mentioned the earth rod I'd be really interested in how you've dealt with earthing for each of your buildings. An often overlooked issue on off grid setups! Edit: power is one of my bigger headaches and its easy to fall into having generators in different places when looking at the price of heavy cable and whether or not to run 3 cables or link the neutral and earth or whether to isolate the earths between buildings/zones.
Earthing is a complicated subject and I'm certainly not expert enough to give any advice on it! I bought the books from the IET and did a lot of reading. Check out John Ward on youtube for some good videos on earthing (and everything else electrical).
@@maximusironthumper Max I've just tried a lengthy reply which in essence covered practicality of earthing / equipotential bonding and making a case for traditional 110V hand tools and distributed RCD protection on your fixed circuits etc Failed to post! Edit more time now. With EEBAD (Earthed Equipotential Bonding and Automatic Disconnection) you are relying on a high fault current to blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker and the bonding to prevent high touch Voltages between 'extraneous' conductors like hot and cold taps, metal benches etc which are strategically connected together (with "safety earth, do not remove !" tags). Trouble starts in fast fuse blowing with high resistance faults and with low power generators that struggle with making enough fault current (field collapse and maybe the engine bogs down), making RCDs a much better idea, but 32mA is not a lot to leak through damp old induction motor windings. So lots of localized RCDs are helpful in reducing the scale of outage events. And then, on portable tools while today's "double insulated" ( plastic bodied) hand tools are safe until they fall in the water butt, 110 Volt CTE have the mid point of the secondary winding earthen, giving a maximum 55V shock risk to earth. In perspective, that tickle from a wet welding glove changing a welding electrode is I think about 40 Volts. So, outright earthing of generators is important to help rapid fuse blowing or circuit breaker tripping during earth faults, but can arguably be a hazard under some fault conditions producing a touch Voltages and some installations including grid tied inverters need isolating transformers. On earth rods, sandy soils can be a problem needing conductive Bentonite clay adding and the measurement of earth resistance is in itself a drama needing several test electrodes and a Wheatstone bridge gadget. Summing up: stay safe with RCDs and 110V tools !
Chassis-in-white looking magnificently better than chassis-in-rust ! On metrology troubles; maybe Solihull's draughtsman managed a misprint in the manual after dropping his Woodbine, or else the comptometer operator had a bad day on the arithmetic? You may well be the first user of the data ! Perhaps a good case here for comparing with another vehicle or mocking up against pieces of your vehicle's body to avoid future disappointment before galvanizing ?
Superb again Max, I couldn't see how you were going to get it all back together when you were chopping everything out/off! but just shows what a bit of vision, passion and professionalism does! Saved yourself a ton of money too, Cheer Max.
Always the case with old cars, having to put back the metal that isn't there any more, but it's all part of the fun really, and the satisfaction that comes when it's all back together and on the road, that'll be worth it... :D
Max, are you on fire with all the videos?!! I know it's content you've had for a while but it's cool to see all the vids coming out in quick succession!!
I really admire your enthusiasm for your Land Rovers. I have several of my own all needing attention but I always seem to find an excuse to do something else...
Look at that shiny new red blaster, also looks like there's some other new tools in the workshop too, that chassis really is coming along nicely, congrats.
Coming along nicely mate. The only thing that concerns me is all of the transverse heat affected zones you're putting across high stress areas, like those dumb irons. Ideally they would have all been fish mouth joints, but that's obviously not going to happen now. To deal with that I would highly recommend you put 30 degree diamond doublers across them to improve the sheer stress they will take before fatiguing and falling off.
All I can think regarding the half inch discrepancie with them measurements is maybe it was not taken from the hole centre but the edge of the hole. In the end it looked like the outriggers landed straight on the factory welds so I recon your plain sailing from here.
I've never had to try and find somewhere to galvanize something as big as a chassis - are there plenty of options near you? Have you already scoped out someone to do it? I can barely contain my excitement to see it all nice and shiny!
Any unsure measurements you could get off another Landy. I shall continue watching the video to see if you have overcome this problem anyway. :-) I see you did.
mmn, the chassis measurements dont match the manual, that is a little worrying, de-ja-vu for me. i think a dry build [along one side] before galvanising is a worthwhile delay, just in case why did you decide on the extra bracing on the front outriggers? keep up the excellent vids
It allowed me to put a lot more weld into the area and make the joint stronger in an area I felt would get a lot of sideways forces. **edit** Jon is correct they are standard. I was answering the wrong question!
I worked on hundreds of S2s and S3s, 88"s and 109"s. I cannot remember one with out the diagonal brace. All the Marland chassis we fitted (and still do) have the brace.
@@jonpatchett425 majority of stuff i work on have coil springs, including my 75 RR, it must be a leaf spring thing, the few i worked on must have rotted off, or left off after outrigger renewal learning all the time....
I don't think the chassis saga will conclude at part 15 . Be interesting see the hot dipping results. Also interesting seeing bulk head fitment and rear body to rear member and door alignment . Generally they a right cock get decent, hopefully yours going be super close . Amazed how minimal rust was on that chassis as it been knocked about and had some shabby repairs that normally escalate the rot . Can't wait see the progress in 2022, keep at it Max ... Have a good xmas .
Does the life of the chassis improve after so much rebuilding or is it weak - considering weld sutures ? How is the safety point evaluated .. thanks !!!
I can only give you my opinion - the finished welded chassis is as good as it was when new 40+ years ago, once galvanised should last at least another 40 years. I'd say that is an improved chassis life.
Does your sums and measuring mean that the rear cross member is 1/2 inch too far forward. Thinking here about the front outrigger measurement discrepancy, measuring from a known original and a replaced part. Completing the phrase, "near as dammit is to swearing" cheers
@Tik Nesla Just shows how difficult it is when working on stuff that has been repaired many times. Plenty of thinking time needed and it's even more difficult when filming and taking to camera, cheers
Why not just drop the tub, seatbox, doors and bulkhead on and weld on the outriggers to suit? I guess we’ll find out how well you did when you are trying to get the door gaps right.
Pardon my ignorance here, but aren't the dumb iron's supposed to be WITHIN the front chassis rails and then welded?? On an entirely separate note--when, oh WHEN am i going to see an ENTIRE Landrover restoration, from start to finish, and can any one direct me to such a video please? I have watched firstly, Forman and Wilms--(a series 1 restoration)--16 vids then the ''break'' Geofrey Croker--(another series 1 resto, THEE go to guy imho, EVERY nut and bolt zinc plated by himself!!)--now a break. Maximusironthumper, one of a series 3 Landrover.....a break after 15 vids. Does anyone out there know of any Landrover restorations that last longer than 16 videos? Only reason i am asking is because of a very long term sickness, which is not going away any time soon. It seems i have caught up with all of them!! My 'go to guy' is ''Halfasscustoms'', a Canadian guy who restores custom cars/trucks in the style of 'customising' from the1920's onwards. He posts every five days. Hope someone is able to help!! Mikky.
In my previous Land Rover restoration series I went from pulling it out the hedge to roadworthy in about 24 episodes. I'm doing a much better job on this one (both in work and filming) and I do try and work on it at least a bit most days, unfortunately my work is not interesting enough to post every five days though.
Hello! **The chassis saga concludes tomorrow with Kermit Part 15** Cheers!
So many project Kermit videos so close to Christmas is like Santa coming early! 😂
Really glad that even though they are close together, the quality is the same as everything else you produce!
Yes brilliant
The Advent Chassis
Are you going to fishplate all these sections of chassis where you butted two sections together? Going to be a weak spot in the chassis due to all the heat at the welds.
This is what You Tube should be all about, learning new skills and fixing old shit.
“All we need to do is put back the metal that isn’t there”. The story with every Land Rover!
jesus you arent kidding around when you say restoration you put in more work then almost any other restoration channel ive seen...bravo
Seems like Land Rovers where built to "close enough", there is a fellow in New Zealand that is going through similar issues. He is Geoffrey Croker, great videos and funny guy.
His videos are very entertaining. His work is meticulous.
Thank you for taking us along. It is so nice to hang out with you in your garage.
The chassis is looking fantastic.
I won't be restoring a Land Rover any time soon. But I'm glad you are so I don't have to worry about it.
I really enjoy watching your videos. What I really like is following your thought process, like figuring out where the rear cross member or the out riggers are supposed to go. Keep up the enthusiasm for the restoration, I think I would have panicked by now. I need a cuppa before the next episode 👍🏻
Still watching! 😉
Great work. I’m glad you rebuilt the original dumb irons. The Britpart replacements I used on mine were horribly inaccurate and thin. I was glad to replace the chassis with new a few years later (though that Marsland unit had misaligned components all over, including the spring bolt holes on the dumb irons, which needed a lot of rectification during the rebuild). I hope the outriggers you used are better than my dumb irons; a lot can change in 15 years, and Britpart are supposed to be trying to up their game.
I am starting a 1959 S2 2 litre diesel in the autumn for use on the farm. This has been really helpful as I thought I would rebuild my chassis, but having seen how much work has gone into this I have decided to get a Richard’s chassis as mine is in far worse condition. Brilliant video that made me laugh, especially when you were trying to work out the correct positions. Land Rover at its best, give or take 1/2 inch!
Buy a plasma cutter , you honestly will never regret it . They are bloody amazing
Loving the Kermit Saga
You’re spoiling us Max!
When I did my chassis, because I hoped to be towing, I took the opportunity to make up some diamonds, which I welded on, top and bottom to the rear cross member to give it a bit of extra strength...T B H I also welded on a drilled heavy plate, to spread the toad behind the tow hook attachments points....all stuff that it is easy to do while the chassis is on the bench.
Happy days and well done.
I’ve woken up to a new MightyCarMods, Ronald Finger, Project Blinky, AND your latest! Best Sunday morning ever!
Land rovers are like the story of the old family axe it's had a new shaft and the steel has been replaced and fixed many times but it's the axe that's been passed down for generations. Original Aluminium Landies are mostly still on the road upto 70%
I would watch this guy build a walkie talkie out of a piece of string and two tin cans 👍
So much better than the previous land rover resto. 👍
You're a superb fabricator Max thanks for sharing
Dedication right there 👍🏻
Very calming to watch these episodes 🙂
Dear Mr Thumper. Excellent work as usual. I eagerly await further progress on this job. My Early Fords have open channel chassis. I can't help thinking Land Rover made a bad decision by utilising a boxed frame. So much potential for trapped moisture. It will be great when you get it all done and prepared and can start to put the various components back onto it. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Fantastic work its no nice to see a 'proper' job on a land chassis, so many bodged ones out there and just as many needlessly scrapped. Top work 👍
Max you've spoken about your generator before, I'm sure, but as you mentioned the earth rod I'd be really interested in how you've dealt with earthing for each of your buildings. An often overlooked issue on off grid setups!
Edit: power is one of my bigger headaches and its easy to fall into having generators in different places when looking at the price of heavy cable and whether or not to run 3 cables or link the neutral and earth or whether to isolate the earths between buildings/zones.
Earthing is a complicated subject and I'm certainly not expert enough to give any advice on it! I bought the books from the IET and did a lot of reading. Check out John Ward on youtube for some good videos on earthing (and everything else electrical).
@@maximusironthumper Max I've just tried a lengthy reply which in essence covered practicality of earthing / equipotential bonding and making a case for traditional 110V hand tools and distributed RCD protection on your fixed circuits etc Failed to post! Edit more time now. With EEBAD (Earthed Equipotential Bonding and Automatic Disconnection) you are relying on a high fault current to blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker and the bonding to prevent high touch Voltages between 'extraneous' conductors like hot and cold taps, metal benches etc which are strategically connected together (with "safety earth, do not remove !" tags). Trouble starts in fast fuse blowing with high resistance faults and with low power generators that struggle with making enough fault current (field collapse and maybe the engine bogs down), making RCDs a much better idea, but 32mA is not a lot to leak through damp old induction motor windings. So lots of localized RCDs are helpful in reducing the scale of outage events. And then, on portable tools while today's "double insulated" ( plastic bodied) hand tools are safe until they fall in the water butt, 110 Volt CTE have the mid point of the secondary winding earthen, giving a maximum 55V shock risk to earth. In perspective, that tickle from a wet welding glove changing a welding electrode is I think about 40 Volts. So, outright earthing of generators is important to help rapid fuse blowing or circuit breaker tripping during earth faults, but can arguably be a hazard under some fault conditions producing a touch Voltages and some installations including grid tied inverters need isolating transformers. On earth rods, sandy soils can be a problem needing conductive Bentonite clay adding and the measurement of earth resistance is in itself a drama needing several test electrodes and a Wheatstone bridge gadget. Summing up: stay safe with RCDs and 110V tools !
Chassis-in-white looking magnificently better than chassis-in-rust ! On metrology troubles; maybe Solihull's draughtsman managed a misprint in the manual after dropping his Woodbine, or else the comptometer operator had a bad day on the arithmetic? You may well be the first user of the data ! Perhaps a good case here for comparing with another vehicle or mocking up against pieces of your vehicle's body to avoid future disappointment before galvanizing ?
As ever amazing craftsmanship Max and thanks for making Christmas Cabin fever more bearable 😂👍🏼
Superb again Max, I couldn't see how you were going to get it all back together when you were chopping everything out/off! but just shows what a bit of vision, passion and professionalism does! Saved yourself a ton of money too, Cheer Max.
A lot of work! Thanks Max.
Always the case with old cars, having to put back the metal that isn't there any more, but it's all part of the fun really, and the satisfaction that comes when it's all back together and on the road, that'll be worth it... :D
Your getting there Max looking good looking forward to the next video 👍
Continued great work Max. I wonder if there were many others who said "make the noise" when you got the little spirit level out.
Well done max,you are a genius
We need an Ironthumper version of the Bat Signal so we can drop what we’re doing and go watch the next instalment as soon as it’s ready.
Loving the daily video's . Fantastic series. 👍👍
Max, are you on fire with all the videos?!! I know it's content you've had for a while but it's cool to see all the vids coming out in quick succession!!
Proper job!..
Great video once more! I am kind of addicted ... in a good way :)
I really admire your enthusiasm for your Land Rovers. I have several of my own all needing attention but I always seem to find an excuse to do something else...
Well done max you are a genius 😁👍👏👏👏
Sorry I have a stutter!!!😁
If the micrometer won't give a satisfactory result, use the 'eye-crometer'. 😉
It's looking good max 👌 can't wait for it to be put back together
Love it
Look at that shiny new red blaster, also looks like there's some other new tools in the workshop too, that chassis really is coming along nicely, congrats.
Coming along nicely mate.
The only thing that concerns me is all of the transverse heat affected zones you're putting across high stress areas, like those dumb irons.
Ideally they would have all been fish mouth joints, but that's obviously not going to happen now. To deal with that I would highly recommend you put 30 degree diamond doublers across them to improve the sheer stress they will take before fatiguing and falling off.
All I can think regarding the half inch discrepancie with them measurements is maybe it was not taken from the hole centre but the edge of the hole. In the end it looked like the outriggers landed straight on the factory welds so I recon your plain sailing from here.
I'd say it looked like his position was maybe 5 mm off the factory weld, which seems well within the tolerances specified in the manual.
Just the content I'm looking for on the tube, been binge watching all the episodes of Kermit. Can't wait for the next one, Cheers from Sweden :-)
fantastic max
Bloody hell Max, loads of videos, keep em coming.
Exciting stuff new landrover for Christmas 🎄 = (chassis of course) top job Thumps 😀
Very nice welding. Will you be allowed to film the dipping process & are you willing to say how much the dipping cost? Great video. 👍
Nice to see you back working on kermit
I've never had to try and find somewhere to galvanize something as big as a chassis - are there plenty of options near you? Have you already scoped out someone to do it? I can barely contain my excitement to see it all nice and shiny!
Are you going to test fit the cab before you have it dipped ?
Nope!
👍💥
ooh , the lesser spotted engine room ( sorry , generator room )
I am sure someone must have said somwhere: measure six times and weld once!
"it's making some Interesting noises..." **Distant Cockerel**
I remember doing my 109 35 years ago and I rang land rover to ask what the tolerances where on the chassis.. The reply was we don't have any.
Any unsure measurements you could get off another Landy. I shall continue watching the video to see if you have overcome this problem anyway. :-)
I see you did.
good vid keep up the good vids thanks lee
👍🍻
😁👍👏👏👏
Hello
Any chance that we can see the chassis being galvanized please?
mmn, the chassis measurements dont match the manual, that is a little worrying, de-ja-vu for me.
i think a dry build [along one side] before galvanising is a worthwhile delay, just in case
why did you decide on the extra bracing on the front outriggers?
keep up the excellent vids
It allowed me to put a lot more weld into the area and make the joint stronger in an area I felt would get a lot of sideways forces. **edit** Jon is correct they are standard. I was answering the wrong question!
Land Rovers had that bracing as standard.
@@jonpatchett425 on which models? not on mine
I worked on hundreds of S2s and S3s, 88"s and 109"s. I cannot remember one with out the diagonal brace. All the Marland chassis we fitted (and still do) have the brace.
@@jonpatchett425 majority of stuff i work on have coil springs, including my 75 RR, it must be a leaf spring thing, the few i worked on must have rotted off, or left off after outrigger renewal learning all the time....
"IS AS NEAR AS DAMN IT" THE SAME ENGINEERING TERM AS "GOOD ENOUGH FOR JAZZ"?.
I don't think the chassis saga will conclude at part 15 .
Be interesting see the hot dipping results.
Also interesting seeing bulk head fitment and rear body to rear member and door alignment .
Generally they a right cock get decent, hopefully yours going be super close .
Amazed how minimal rust was on that chassis as it been knocked about and had some shabby repairs that normally escalate the rot .
Can't wait see the progress in 2022, keep at it Max ... Have a good xmas .
So ... Measure 20 times weld it in the ballpark area. Sounds like a Land-rover chassis.
Does the life of the chassis improve after so much rebuilding or is it weak - considering weld sutures ? How is the safety point evaluated .. thanks !!!
I can only give you my opinion - the finished welded chassis is as good as it was when new 40+ years ago, once galvanised should last at least another 40 years. I'd say that is an improved chassis life.
Hiya
make the noise...lol no thats binky.
did u find the number of this one?
Hiya is it possible you could show your welding setup
It's a GYS smartmig 160 - an ok machine - nothing special!
Does your sums and measuring mean that the rear cross member is 1/2 inch too far forward. Thinking here about the front outrigger measurement discrepancy, measuring from a known original and a replaced part. Completing the phrase, "near as dammit is to swearing" cheers
@Tik Nesla Just shows how difficult it is when working on stuff that has been repaired many times. Plenty of thinking time needed and it's even more difficult when filming and taking to camera, cheers
Why not just drop the tub, seatbox, doors and bulkhead on and weld on the outriggers to suit? I guess we’ll find out how well you did when you are trying to get the door gaps right.
Pardon my ignorance here, but aren't the dumb iron's supposed to be WITHIN the front chassis rails and then welded??
On an entirely separate note--when, oh WHEN am i going to see an ENTIRE Landrover restoration, from start to finish, and can any one direct me to such a video please?
I have watched firstly, Forman and Wilms--(a series 1 restoration)--16 vids then the ''break''
Geofrey Croker--(another series 1 resto, THEE go to guy imho, EVERY nut and bolt zinc plated by himself!!)--now a break.
Maximusironthumper, one of a series 3 Landrover.....a break after 15 vids.
Does anyone out there know of any Landrover restorations that last longer than 16 videos?
Only reason i am asking is because of a very long term sickness, which is not going away any time soon.
It seems i have caught up with all of them!!
My 'go to guy' is ''Halfasscustoms'', a Canadian guy who restores custom cars/trucks in the style of 'customising' from the1920's onwards.
He posts every five days.
Hope someone is able to help!! Mikky.
In my previous Land Rover restoration series I went from pulling it out the hedge to roadworthy in about 24 episodes. I'm doing a much better job on this one (both in work and filming) and I do try and work on it at least a bit most days, unfortunately my work is not interesting enough to post every five days though.
How much of your beard is filled with bits of metal?
Good job. But hope your tape measure tells the truth. I had one that lied to me and nearly cost my job as a very young worker.