Working on the Bunker Dehumidifier, to be Smarter - 1404
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- I am still battling the humidity in the bunker. The tiny Dehumidifier, does work and does a good job. But it does also use like 22-24Watt when it runs, and it will just keep running,, as long as there is power. so in this video I try to fix that, by joining different component to it. I do get really close to a good working result,,, but then!!
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Link CH - Digital Humidity Controller XH-W3005 12V - s.click.aliexp...
I have this one in order, to solve ALL my problems :-)
Link CH - 5A DC to DC Step down Converter - s.click.aliexp...
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/ myplayhouse
For 3$ a month, you get an extra weekly "What's UP" update video. Just for my Patrons. The Support I resave on patreon is all used on stuff to make interesting videos on UA-cam.
My PlayHouse is a channel where i will show, what i am working on. I have this house, it is 168 Square Meters / 1808.3ft² and it is full, of half-finished projects.
I love working with heating, insulation, Servers, computers, Datacenter, green power, alternative energy, solar, wind and more. It all costs, but I'm trying to get the most out of my money, and my time.
I love when you take things apart like this because it reminds me so much of my dad tinkering with some house thing when I was growing up. Lost him 23 years ago so thank you ❤
Thank You,, lost my dad 30 years ago,, long time,,,,
That first breath you took onto the sensor sounded like you were a 4 pack of cigarettes a day person… lol 🤣
:-) it was meant too :-)
I would check if overfilling sensor still works. Your modification could cause running it infinitely.
Was thinking the same
Well there is 2500 Liters of air,, the tank is 650ml. if no new air is added.. do let me know if it can run infinitely. :-)
Use a FingerBot to press the on/off switch linked to humidity sensor. No need to modify the humidifier
Not a bad sugestion,, would look fun..
@@MyPlayHouse they work great and look cool 😁
i think you got 7 options for the Dehumidifier
1. bypassing the controller and loosing all the other options
2. replacing the ATTINY85 on that thing, guess here are many fallows that can make you an firmware for that.
3. making a new firmware for the controller that's already on there, (you should be able to detect what chip it is)
4. make an timer for the button with an NE555 that holds the button to ground for some seconds after start up, you can replace the pull-up/pull-down resister which is already in there with that button
5. replace the board completely and integrate all sensors on it.
6. throwing the whole thing away and getting a new one with everything included.
7. tell in a video that someone could send you a new board or something similar.
I am going for option 1. as "tank full" and blue led, I can work around.
@@MyPlayHouse im not sure what option i would pick, but yea i think 1 is the simples and cheapest
Hi Morten,
You should take the peltier element out and look at the numbers. Maybe it is already a 12V peltier. But you could also run a 9V peltier at 12V, it just loses some efficiency (and gain some performance). Just check beforehand how much the peltier draws at 12V. So I would throw out that original controller board and wire in the humidity controller directly. Also you seem to have a floater on the table.
12V DC from the power bank -> floater -> humidity controller -> fan/peltier.
When the tank is full the floater will cut the power to the controller.
Ahh the floater is for something else,, I do not get that high humidity in the bunker.
Morten, HA, ESPhome, ESP8266, humidity sensor and relay should be everything you need (and wifi to connect in the bunker)
Well maybe it can be made smarter along the way.
Do what you want, I will watch anyway and viewer engagement will be better than if you run homeassistant :)
But the tank full-sensor does not work now. I saw you having the floaty thingie on the work bench so I think you'll take care of that issue
Yes I bypassed the "tank full" sensor,, I do not know what else to do.
Those dc to dc converters are rated for approximately 2 Amps - however they can work in parallel. Removing the anti static and anti corrosion nitrogen filled protective bags? Did you now also bypass the reservoir full switch? only the fan needs to be on 9 volts for noise reduction right?
Yes I bypassed the "tank full" sensor,, the way that click button works, makes it difficult,, in my head.
The easy way of doing all of that, at least now that you've got the soft switch on the dehumidifier bypassed... Just get an old Netbotz 200 and a temperature / humidity sensor off ebay. It has a switched outlet that you can configure to turn on / off based on whatever thresholds you set from the sensors. :D Added benefit - it has a neat little web interface so you can keep an eye on the readings in your bunker remotely. ^_^ I'm using a similar setup on my home lab to control a fan that pushes the hot air from behind my rack if the temperature gets too high.
That is a bit much... :-)
peltier based dehumidifiers are very inefficient. compressor based ones are 5 to 8 times more efficient and basically all of them have a humidity sensor build in.
I know,, but this is like 2,5 M3 of air that need dehumidifying,, it is like 1M2 of a house. The compressor based ones are bigger more expensive and uses more power (when they run,, over all they use less)
replace the on/off button with a small relay, and controller it with the humidity monitor or small arduino board
ahh putting a controller to do a simple task seems like overkill.
Use Home Assistant.
To do what?
I bet you just broke/briged the water level sensor circuit with your mod.
How does the Peltier now get disconnected if the tank is full if you strapped the power mosfet/Transistor to be permanently enabled?
Your Humidity Controller has a Relay output right? Just cut the Peltier wire and insert the Controller-Relay there. Of cause the Humidifier has to be still turned on once and the LEDs will always light up.
I can't get a good look but I think the relay is wired to be a 12V output only and not a switching output. but you can just solder two new wires on the relay to use as a switching output and remove the old 12v connection to the relay (switched side of cause)
Yes I have probably bypassed the "tank full" sensor. I think I will just live with that.
Hello Morten, recently found your channel after searching for a server to run my homelab/NAS box. i ended up purchasing an x3650 m5 LFF and am learning my way around it. i was trying to figure out how to get a graphics card working in it to pass through to VMs that would need it. i have the riser cards that have the x16/x8 slots and recently got a pcie power cable to get more board power for the card. i installed an rt5600xt. it lights up and the fans spin but the server doesn't recognize it's installed. do you know what else i might need to do to get it working? i've updated to the latest IMM and believe i have the latest firmware for everything as well. any hep would be greatly appreciated!
I believe the rt5600xt needs a PCIe 4.0,, and the X3650 M5 is only PCIe 3.0 might be it..
@@MyPlayHouse it is Gen 4 but shouldn't it be backwards compatible?
👍
Thank You.
how about a resistor based voltage divider?
The de humidifier uses 22W,,, that is a lot of power.
You're like Mario
I do not see how or why..
@@MyPlayHouse It was you coming out of the ground through a pipe like super mario does in the video game :)
👍👀🌟
Thank You!
@@MyPlayHouse and I'm already watching