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Why is My Gibson Girl Hair such a Struggle?
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2022
- Watch me overheat and struggle to create a Gibson Girl updo this week as part of my attempt to recreate an 1899 Bicycle ensemble. This is not knitting related, but still an important part of getting the look ~just right~
The main hairstyle tutorial I followed: archive.org/de...
Other resources I used:
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www.loc.gov/re...
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Engineering knits is a place for people who enjoy all kinds of vintage and antique crafts - from sewing to knitting, crochet to embroidery I like to try it all. I definitely have a preference for historical fibre crafts, and it is my dream to one day make an entire outfit from sheep to sweater. I hope you enjoy watching me and my favorite companion, Nutella, struggle through some fascinating projects!
A few tips from someone who wears historical styles regularly. For “dry shampoo” or hair powder try using cornstarch or arrowroot powder. It is finer and won’t weigh the hair down as flour can have a tendency to do but will allow it some grip and body. The starch will also give some stability. Day old hair or older is best for historical hairstyles. Freshly washed hair doesn’t have enough grip to it. If curling the hair for grip and volume, I suggest combing it out slightly before proceeding with the hair style as to flood it and give it even more body. For homemade hair rats, I suggest collecting the hair in the receiver and once you have a fair amount, use a fine hair net to contain the hair until the rat is the desired size. I do recommend these types of hair rats as they are easier to pin through than some other varieties can be. Hat pins- hat pins are not a necessity with hats such as tams or looser styles. Hat pins are more useful for flat styles which have no ability to be “pulled” down onto to one’s head. If you feel it is a necessity for security, you could use a pin that is shorter in length just at the top. Remember when using hat pins to “dig” into the hair underneath the hat thus securing the hat to the head. If you are concerned about the end of the hat pin protruding on the other side and taking someone out, you can purchase modern “end caps” for stick pins that work with hat pins also. Hope this helps!
The Gold Bond babypowder makes a heck of a dry shampoo because it has some kayolin in it as well as the starch but don't use it on fresh hair as it will suck out ALL the moisture. Which comes to the second part, these styles won't work on modern "shampoo daily" hair.
I have alopecia and the idea of collecting my fallen hair to put back on my head is very exciting to me lol
This video is SO encouraging for those of us trying our novice hand at vintage hairstyles. We only ever see the effect of people who have practiced and practiced over and over again. It can be a stink bomb in the toilet of our self-esteem when we see people getting it perfect time and time again on their "first try". Thank you so much for showing us the process that is going to net you (pun intended) a terrific hairstyle!
Yes absolutely! It can be so discouraging when I try to do vintage hairstyles from the 80s and I can’t seem to get them right, but then see other people getting them perfect on the first try. It can be eye opening to realize they have probably been doing their hair like that for 35 years though😅
I think you did a pretty good job for a first attempt! It took me ages to master the Gisbon girl poofy hair, but once you get the technique down it’s a fairly quick and simple style. I see many other commentors have had similar recommendations to mine, but here are my tips as someone who regularly does such styles:
Your hair looks a bit too greasy to get a good poof. I find clean (or nearly clean) hair works best for the initial curl-set. You can use a bit of a historical setting lotion (such as a gum acacia based concoction or a tiny bit of oil) to give a bit of extra grip if you find your clean hair is too slippery. I always have better results from overnight curler sets vs with a curling iron. Modern irons make the curls too smooth to get a good fluff. I use a handmade set of replica kid curlers, but any small curler will work. The smaller the better.
When if comes to styling, you are right about needing a bigger rat. I’ve experimented with a few different supports, but find a faux braid wrapped around the head works best for me. It’s easy to secure and provides a smooth, even shape to drape the hair over.
My favourite trick is to take a curling iron after the hair has been styled and just curl the wispy bits around the face and neck. It gives the final style a softness and I think a more finished look.
A rat tail comb might come in handy, too. Not only do they make parting easier, but you can use the “tail” to lift hair that hasn’t poufed up enough. It looks like you’re on the right track, though!
Hat pins have to come out the other side, or they don't stay on; that's why Edwardian pins are so long, the hair and the hats were HUGE! I usually pin the front portion of the hat, so about 2 inches forward from center, into the fullest part of my hair, or wherever feels most secure. Pin at a downward angle, in to the hair and towards your scalp (be careful not to stab yourself in the head, it HURTS!) and then up again and out the other side of the hat. It's similar to when you're pinning thick fabric together.
It's also pretty period correct to use wool that matches your hair for a rat; you're going to need a pretty large rat to get the volume you want. They also sell modern plastic mesh hair rats; they're usually donut-shaped, but you can just cut them open to make a long tube. That's what I use, mostly.
Another issue is root lift and volume and a way to get more of that is to flip your hair over and do a braid right away from the top of your head (further forward than the crown, right around even with where your ears are) and sleep with it like that, even with maybe slightly damp hair. It lifts the lifts the hair from the roots instead of it tending to lie against your skull with gravity. I usually sleep with my hair like that to keep it out of my way and it adds a lot of volume to that part of my hair.
I don't know anything about styling straight silky hair, but I used to be very jealous of friends that had that type of hair. To have hair that doesn't knot straight away after styling is a dream. I'm onto my second Irish Crochet (IC) project. The first was some gloves with a IC wheel border. The second is a lace insert of roses, that I will attach to a dress.
My great grandmother used a homemade solution to get curls to stay and to be able to grip her hair into the Gibson girl bun. She mixed a little lemon and sugar together to give her hair texture. You most likely know about this…She also made sure her hair was real clean …if it wasn’t …it would not take and she would make a Psyche Knot..as she called it. Do you have any cornstarch? That would dry up the oils in your hair. It makes it easier to get it in a high bun. I love your videos on the Edwardian period. Thank you for this video. I think most housewives women who were home with children would have worn their hair exactly like you have it in this video. They would not have had the time to do the proper Gibson girl bun…unless they were upper middle class or wealthy women who had maids & nannies.
I usually do the bernadette banner updo but it never works for me on third day hair. I'll try the psyche knot the next time, thank you for the suggestion
Just like the clothing silhouettes of that era require specific underpinnings (and additions like bust improvers or hip rolls as needed based on one's natural shape), the hair styles require a certain foundation of hair volume. Crows Eye Productions did a couple of wonderful hair and makeup videos for the Gibson Girl and the model had really long and thick hair but they still added a substantial hair "donut" to get the height and volume needed for that look.
I think a few things that might help- you need a lot more dry shampoo. Either the modern stuff, or a starch, not flour. No one through history used plain flour because it clumps. See Abby Cox’s videos for a dry shampoo powder. It’s a lot older (18th century), but the reasoning remains the same, you just don’t want to pomade it first.
You might find it more useful to dry shampoo then do a bit of teasing at the root. Your parting was really good, so start there, dry shampoo the heck outta the hair (so spray or powder, massage into hair, let sit, then brush), and then tease starting from the back of the front part (just like how they said to approach curling). Then gently comb from the front to not have it look messy at the front, and pull back and pin.
Also, you can use dry shampoo on clean hair to give it volume too. The golden day for hairstyling straight hair is the second day, because it’s a bit dirtier, but not yet too greasy. If you find your hair is a bit oily, go to town with the dry shampoo. You can’t really get even, fluffy volume with oily hair. Curls don’t stay in oily hair either. And I think that was your biggest problem.
My grandma had antique hair curlers and it was a smaller diameter iron. You can make hair bumpers from wool. And lots of back combing for volume.
A great video. My husband doesn't normally watch costuming vids with me but he was completely fascinated by your trials and tribulations.
Its a good attempt. You may just need a more horse shoe shaped hair rat. For curling you may benefit from foam rolls or a slower method for rolling it. It will give it time to set the curl and theoretically should be easier to get close to the root. For the hat pin you can angle the pin so the none decorated part sits close to your head, like more of a in, out, straight down motion. But be careful and may be easier trying with a hair pin first as I'm not known for useful explains lol
I was thinking a horseshoe or circular hair rat may be better for this style. I believe I saw Rachel Maksy do some hair styles with hair rats a while ago. She may have said where she got hers or have them linked.
My First thought was that you need more ‘dry shampoo’ - your Hair was still very slippery and not as ‘moldable’ as it needed to be…
A bigger hair rat can definitely help - but until then maybe look in to teasing a small section into a ‘built in hair rat’ on the sides??
And the next thing I kinda thought could help was to build a base with your uncurled crown section - twist it up first and pin it in place, and then you can grab the outer sections and pin them on top and create your style ;)
Oh - and maybe invest in a boar bristle brush - even a smaller teasing brush with boar bristles can help a lot with giving that ‘floofy’ surface on the style…
Gonna echo everyone else. Slow curlers with some kind of pomade with help your hair hold the curl, tease the inside of the curls (the layer closest to your bun), bigger rat, looser grip when you’re smoothing your hair. Let it be a little messy- modern ponytails are usually supposed to be smooth and perfect but when you look at the pictures/photos from the time they’re usually a little messy. Plus practice will help!
The struggles are so relatable! My hair never does anything I want it to do! XD
Now I see that you wanted to go to the original resources to discover for yourself if you could follow them.
Excellent research!
Somewhat surprising that none of them offered advice or suggestions for different hair types, and augmentations of different sorts.
From what I noticed it seems you’re instinctively pulling your hair back as if in a ponytail which is pulling it too tight on the sides. I believe you need to pull each section up at a time and pin each section into place. Plus everything everyone else has been suggesting 😂
Hi yes, don't ever use flour as hair powder, you will hate yourself when washing it out, you need a starch for that. Wheat starch was the traditional but you can use corn or even potato starch, but please, don't use flour.
... as I recall, my grandma said they used to rat their hair in areas as needed to create volume.
And rag curls were put in for bed. Rag curls can create amazing waves in your hair. You could even braid the back of your hair and rag curl your bangs for more volume.
I feel your pain. I keep trying to get the lovely loose and flowy I-just-piled-this-on-top-of-my-head look but it needs SO MANY PINS just to stay in place that it ends up clamped to my head with weird tufty bits sticking out :P
And yes, you said chiropody correctly!
I got my Gibson girl pomp with a knee high nylon from my stepmum's stash. Yep. I made a large ring and stuffed it with wool from our sheep (well, I washed it well first, then carded it... of course) then sewed it closed. I rake my hair down everywhere, and then pull the hair over the ring rat... I adjust with a brush, then put it in a bun. Pins everywhere, hidden well. The hair rat is important for me because, while my hair is butt-length, it isn't thick. I think your hair style is great but I get being frustrated. I can't seem to get a 40s do for the life of me! I keep on as I'm sure the practice is the key. I love hanging out with you and Nutella.
I would use a narrower diameter curling iron to get tighter more voluminous curls and it will also get closer to your scalp. What you’re using gives you a nice wave
The struggle is real. We all need ladies' maids! I am going to try the crimping next time I do Edwardian hair.
I recently found out that they sell small flat boars hair smoothing brushes for the fly away hairs at the beauty supply store. Apparently, there are different types of brushes to do different jobs, who knew? Not me.
You can use brown wool roving to make a hair rat or brush out some yarn if you don't have roving. From what I understand, hair pieces weren't just made from human hair and collecting enough of your own might take a long time. Washing your hair with a bar of Ivory soap will make it not slippery, shampoos have a lot of smoothing agents in them. And I find corn starch easier to wash out than wheat flour, flour can get glue-like combined with hot water. Styling hair is definitely a frustrating work out, I always get sweaty lol. Sorry it didn't work out as well as you hoped.
Please don't use wheat flour, use rye flour, if you can get it. With rye flour you can also wash your hair naturally if you make a paste and let it sit for a while before you use it. But wash it really well out and comb your hair well afterwards, if you don't want that the flour is still in the clean hair. 😉
Awesome try. Dry shampoo is your friend. I have lighter brown/blond hair like you and tend to use a mixture of starch (corn, tapioca etc.) with a few spoons of cocoa powder to make it more brown. Start with the cocoa powder and add the white starch until it is the shade desired. Now that I have grey hair I add a few capsules of activated charcoal to get the mushroom brown color my greys are giving my brown hairs. Dry shampoo also works better if you do it the night before. Gives the starch time to absorb the oil and create the texture and volume. And helps get rid of the powdery look. An overnight set might give you better curls. Loepsie does a lot of vintage hair tutorials as well as how to set hair. Her hair is similar to yours.
My cheater method is using a ponytail holder at the location of the bun & make a loose ponytail. I then start the bun twist with the ponytail & on the bun in place. I have not done it for years but it worked really well.
I appreciate your valiant effort! And oh my god is doing hairstyles so difficult - the simple thing for me that made it hard is just holding my arms up in that position. I can't do it. I'm able-bodied but I guess I just have very weak and spindly arms and they get tired very quickly. When I had long hair, I could manage (not particularly even) pigtail plaits, a ponytail high or low and that was it. I never learned how to style my hair, couldn't braid it French or Dutch or milkmaid or anything else, and I couldn't plait it at the back because my arms would get too tired. I cut my hair short when I was about 17 and I haven't gone back (not that I am suggesting that everyone have short hair or anything but for me, I just get it cut in such a way that I brush it and let it dry and don't do *anything* else, because I am crap at styling my hair and don't enjoy the feeling of hair product!)
btw I did have the problem of bobby pins always falling out of my hair and not doing anything to hold my hair in place....turns out, as my fiancee informed me while doing her hair, I was putting them in the wrong way round. Apparently the bumpy bit is supposed to point down against your head, not up.
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Thank you for taking me along on the ride of your hair style. ❤️
I love that show the process. I've taken to cutting my hair short for a couple years now because it did seem like a workout to do something with my hair. I've seen heatless curl put out some impressive results since maybe your hair does not like to hold a curl. Mine never did. Also, texture spray might be a better hack than hair spray alone so that your hair can have some grip. Good luck on your hair adventures!
Practice makes perfection, just keep collecting hair and exercising your arms😉.
Can you pad out the hair rat with Nutella fuzz? No one needs to know.
A lot of people don't like me for saying this, but when I need my hair grippy I completely ditch the conditioner and even use baby shampoo to get my hair really frizzy. But to achieve that you need to wash your hair like that for at least 3-4 times so it isn't something you can do spontaneously :'D
I was watching a vintage hair tutorial and she mentioned hair memory. Once you have styled your hair in the same way for a while it naturally wants to go in that direction - as those of us with a regular side part know when we try to part in a different place! Also practice makes perfect I expect - for both the hands and the hair! 😁
Hat pins are tricky. U kinda weave them through the hair next to ur scalp and then out the other side of the hat. Its easier to use when ur hat is up vs down and loose
Youre hair is so fine. I think the only way youll get it is a hair donut and a ton of pins. Maybe make the donut from synthetics so you wont have to wait 4 years to save that much hair? I hope you get it worked out. Its going to be great to see the finished product. Edwardian is one of my favorite eras.
People with fine hair: carefully collecting their hair into a tiny dish. People with thick hair: OMG I just emptied the trash bin, how is it full AGAIN?
I always have my hatpin poking out at the other side. I find that makes it the most secure, and I’ve never stabbed myself or anybody else.
💖 this.
I remember Rachel masky did that same hairstyle
Your hair looks similar to mine (very very fine, not quite straight), and before I cut it I did play around with some 1910s stiyles, so...let's say this a half-educated, half-assed guess. Hope this helps!
For root volume: Brush all your hair UP towards your forehead while leaning over, then do your parts. If possible, brush your hair up and wear it in a bun overnight beforehand, or wash and dry it upside down. Basically, never brush your hair "down".
Move the rat: Use the rat to fill out your bun, and your own hair for the pompadour part.
Avoid bobby pins: They keep hair close to the scalp, which is the opposite of what you want. U-Pins only!
If you can, I recommend buying little pin-caps for your hat pins it'll keep the sharp end covered while being worn, as well as keep your pin from sliding out of your hat.
I think the style is looking pretty darn good, for a first try. Way better than mine would have been, for sure. For a little added *oomph*, try braiding your crown section of hair, and pinning that into place as an additional hair rat too.
PS
I watched the whole process.
Very wonderful work on your hair rat!
If you want a temporary hair rat faster, try stuffing a nylon stocking with something the texture of discarded hair, like carded wool, cotton balls, or, even clean & dry dryer lint. Get it to a shape that continues your natural hair rat, roll or fold the stocking excess *loosely* around the rat, and use the stocking-contained temporary rat as you would a natural hair rat. You are lucky and don't shed much hair, so, it may be months,perhaps a year or more before you get a whole rat of natural hair.
I recommend Sage Lilleyman's UA-cam video: I turned myself into a Gibson girl/Edwardian hair & Makeup. I couldn't believe how easy she made the style.
Not period correct but a little back combing or teasing would help.
You inspire me, again! I need to start saving my hair to make a hair rat, too. Can I add the cat hair to it too? LOL
You can get little pin caps for your hat pin in case you are scared you will stab yourself after you put the hat pin in. I also like the fact they stay in a little better it the other end in capped off.
Your front roll thickness will require brushing ALL of your hair forward, bending over from the waist. Grasp in all in one hand. You then put the horseshoe rat behind all that hair, forward right over your hairline. Pull your handful of hair over the rat, and distribute it over the rat. Then start twisting the hair until the coil starts collapsing on itself in a bun. Twist all of the hair into the bun and tuck the ends. You need a great many u-shaped hairpins, and you pin the bun into the rat, and the rat to the bun. Put the hairpins all around and through the top. I don't really think your hair is long or thick enough for this style, mine never was. Adding some cornstarch to you hair might help, it will at least thicken it and give it more grab.
thanks for the information greetings healthy and successful friends 🙏👍
Historical hairstyles are where having difficult-to-manage type 3 hair comes in handy, but my condolences to anyone who first needs to coax their hair into my hair type and then try to style that.
You will never achieve the hairstyle with the curler. You need to tease your hair from the root to half way down the hair. Thin you smooth over with your comb. This will give you the volume you lack. It is best to have dirty hair and not freshly washed soft hair. Don't use conditioner. To get the teasing out after use your conditioner so you don't break your hair when brushing through. Hope this helps. I was an international model for over 25 years so have a bit of experience in getting "the look". Really enjoy your channel even though your fashion is not mine but thick you are so cleaver and enjoy watching you create.
I love this but never have achieved anything more that you did... I think a hair ro would be better but I do not want to save my hair... lol... from this time frame women hard help getting dressed most of the time... you struck the point that you needed an extra pair of hands... thank you from showing just how hard it is to manage this style one's self... its just not me that struggles 😪... good luck with the rat... lol
That hair rat is about what I end up with in about 2 days...but my hair IS knee length, or thereabouts.😂 Want me to share??
IMHO you need to think like an engineer, not a hairstylist. I'm the daughter of an engineer who went to Beauty College, where I learned that the secret to a good up-do is 'dirty' hair. (Yeah, I know yeeuchh! LOL) Hair was shampooed far less frequently back then in favour of brushing, so it had more natural sebum & dry product distributed throughout, giving it more body & tooth with which to provide texture for styles to hold. Think of Fuzzy Felts, Velcro etc., texture equals grip & hold, but sadly smooth, clean glossy hair is the enemy of up-styling. We overcome this with a good spray of hairspray or dry shampoo (or both) to coat each hair, before brushing to distribute thoroughly. Equally important is structure; your roots are your foundations so they need all the help they can get. Back-combing at the roots only, (pls follow a qualified person's tutorial to do it safely) followed by hair spray will complement & assist your hair rat placement in to building a sound structure. Most historical hair volume is fake, achieved by back-combing curls/crimps or padding with hair rats/donuts. Overnight hair rags or noodle rollers at the roots can save you a lot of styling work on the day of the up-do. Hair rats will be more durable if wrapped in hair net or a piece of stocking or lace. I've also padded them out in the past by distributing unused hair extensions through them. Last thing - pins - millions of them & not just bobby pins, the old ones where you bend the leg when you want. Good luck :)
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🧐 . . . . I don't understand why you don't have a Lady's maid young lady
You can also make a fake hair rat which was also done during the time and wool fleece was used as well.
Corn starch instead of flour acted as hair spray, dry shampoo, and texturizer.
This voluminous har suddenly made you look like Scarlett Johansson
If you want a lot of curl, you might try a pin curl set. Pin them all tight to your head and sleep on them after a wash. It might help a little.
I think you need a 3 way mirror so you can see the back of your head better.
I think the curls weren't close enough to your scalp and didn't hold all that well because the curling iron is too thick. You might want to try a thinner one or simply curling your hair 'manually' (wet pincurls/rollers). Also, until your hair rat gets large enough you can pad your hair with many other things : tights stuffed with bits of fabric, rolled-up socks, etc.
Unfortunately I’m no help whatsoever. I’m horrible at hair and since the daughter grew up and moved out I’m left with a messy bun or a french braid for hair styles. Though I do love the Gibson girl look I’ve never been brave enough to try!
Tease the hair as well it will help with the slipperiness
Gibson girl hair is impossible in my fine greasy hair it's why I have a Bob. Looking at images of ancestors they just scraped if back into a bun. None of the fancy big hair.
I gave up and used wigs for big hair.
I use corn starch in my hair. It adds volume and also helps with my greasy hair. Until you get more hair for your hair rat try teasing your hair where your hair rat won't reach.
It always seemed to me that this hairstyle is just about pinning your hair as loosely as possible
I think that “real” curlers work better??
Have you thought about a crochet hair rat?
Chiropodist - shirropodist - a foot specialist, though not as qualified as a podiatrist
About half your fringe section is my entire hair. And I realise why when you show your hair rat. I get that amount out in a week. Pigging hopeless. And that is babying it to an extreme. Was already pathetic then I started on medication that makes it worse.
I would split it up into four sections after curling it. Clip the hair that would be used for bangs, up. Then slowly and loosely lift the sides by you your ears and pin to crown after all three are up and looking to your desired taste combine the rest of the hair with remaining top portion and rotate into loose bun. I have curly hair and never brush it out, I just pile it on top.