2010 Ford F150 - Replacing the rear brake pads and rotors
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- In this video, I replaced the rear brakes on my personal 2010 Ford F150. Torque specs for the rear caliper bolts 22ft/lb, noise damper bolt 12.5ft/lb, wheel lug nuts 150ft/lb.
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I like the way you think and work; it gives credence to the old saying, "Why is it we never have time to do a job right the first time, but we always have time to do it over again". Your explanations as you go through your work is also excellent. I'd let you work on anything I own sir, and I tip my hat to you, well done! I own the same vehicle and will have no problem replacing my brakes after watching your video. Thank you.
Very thorough video and your workmanship is impeccable. Really explained everything well and it was a big help to me. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
@@AKJeeper 0⁹
Thanks for making this video, you perfectly explained how to do it and I was able to successfully change my own brake pads , no problem
The vibration dampener unscrews from the bolt so you can put a 6pt socket on it. The 'V.D.' has a rubber plug with a torx hole inside or vise grips, luckily mine wasn't tight.
Seeing I'm kind of old school and I have always had to deal with drum brakes on the back in the past. Having just bought a 2010 F-150 and it definitely needs a set of new rear rotors. I just wanted to see if there was anything I was unaware of, there was that top bolt. You were precise and to the point, a very usable video. So, I see no major complications going forward! Thanks.
Very well done and easy to follow. Thanks
Thanks brother... excellent tutorial
Excellent video. I would only add a step of spraying down the rotors with brake cleaner to get the packing oil/grease removed. Great info on that upper caliper sound dampening bolt...had I not watched this video I wouldnt have had any idea what that thing was or why it was there!
Great, it was very helpful, very grateful
Great job 👍
You are very thorough love the video I learned alot
Glad it was helpful!
Very good
Great video. I couldn’t find my 10mm wrench so as a welder/fabricator I cut that rubber thing off the bolt with my angle grinder and used my 10mm socket wrench. Haha
There's a cap on the back of that rubber thingy (it's a vibration dampener) and pull that cap open and there's a torx head in there 🤓
Very useful
Very helpful thanks
Very helpful video, you increased my comfort level to attempt my DIY project.
Awesome video. I love how concise you are with these steps. Looking to attempt this job myself. You mentioned checking the level of the brake fluid before compressing the piston all the way. What should one do if the fluid is at max level?
Hmm, I guess I must have forgotten to add the info in the video. If the brake fluid reservoir is full, compressing the piston will cause it to overflow. Typically, I will use a suction device like a Turkey baster to lower the level in the master cylinder prior to compressing the pistons. Be sure not to use the Turkey baster on any food later, if you go that route. Buy a new one to replace the one you grabbed out of the kitchen 😂
Good video and I sure can't fault having that wrench but I've never used one. I just put my vise grips on that shoulder just below the hex head. Works fine.
I was curious about service of the emergency brake shoes and to make sure the mechanism wasn’t frozen with rust. Great information on doing those rear brakes though. I have a 2009 with 83,000 miles and I believe it’s due for a brake job. Thanks
Never seen a vibration dampener. Thank you
Kind of hit and miss finding these on the F150s. I haven't found a rhyme or reason as to which ones were equipped with them or not.
@@AKJeeper replaced my rear brakes and rotors with ceramic pads due to a slight squeak occasionally. Thought it would cure the noise but it is still happening. Any suggestions? Doesn’t affect performance, just irritating. Lol
@@danielpowell8022 Does the noise change or go away if you barely touch the brake pedal (indicating the noise is coming from the brake system)? Also, when you installed the new pads, did you put any brake grease on the caliper and piston (contact surface between the pad and caliper)? I've found that the brake grease does quite well to suppress brake noises, but please apply it to the correct side of the pad - in other words, on the back side of the pads, not where the friction material contacts the rotor. You'd be surprised how many vehicles have come into the shop where someone did a DIY brake job and applied the grease to the wrong side...
@@AKJeeper only squeaks occasionally. When it does I release slightly on the pressure and it stops. I did not use any grease. I will definitely try some and will not apply it to the stopping side. Lol. I’m sure it is a specific type. What do I ask for? Thank you for the insight and for your time.
@@danielpowell8022 usually marketed as brake parts grease, or something along those lines. The one I used on this truck can be seen at 11:06. Sorry, I’m on my phone right now, otherwise I’d post a link to some.
I have a new to me 2011, see where the hard brake line crosses the axle flange? The PO hit something and it was almost fully crushed! Had to fab up a line!
Great video , but you can also remove that device from that bolt in case you have to, that way you'll be able to use any tools.
Absolutely true. There’s more than one way to deal with the vibration dampener, and other people’s videos show the other methods. I just showed what works best for me and in my shop environment. One inexpensive tool saves a lot of time - I no longer need to disassemble the dampener and its additional components to remove the bolt.
Can the emergency brake be set when changing the front and rear brakes? I didn’t used to have to worry about it due to my old driveway was flat but now I have one that has a slight slope.
Setting the parking brake will do nothing for you if you are working on the rear brakes, since the parking brake is on the rear axle only. I don’t advise working on a vehicle on a sloped driveway, but if you have to, only jack up one axle at a time, and have good wheel chocks on the wheels still on the ground. Do not rely on the parking brake to keep the vehicle from rolling.
Thanks for the advice. That’s what I was planning on doing but was thinking of going the extra mile.
Thanks this was really helpful ✌️
I thought you had to loosen you bleeder valve because with abs your not to push the fluid back though the system it could mess up your abs
On some vehicles this is true (GM trucks w/ 4WABS from the 90s). Ford does not mention the need to open the bleeder when doing pad replacement on these trucks which is why I did not do it. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for your particular year and model of vehicle.
Grasias
So for the rear brakes you don’t have to loosen the bleeder screw to compress the caliper piston?
I don’t feel that it’s necessary to open the bleeder screws when pushing the piston back into the caliper. Definitely an optional step.
@@AKJeeper As a head up, Ford Motor Company recommends that the bleeder screw is cracked open during compression of the caliper piston to relieve backwards pressure into the ABS module and also to drain the old heat "cooked" brake fluid from the piston. They warn this is important to prevent brake fluid from flowing backwards under pressure and damaging the ABS module which can be a $1,500-2,000 repair!
@@fhiggenbottom Ford has mentioned opening the bleeder before compressing the pistons on other models in the past…but none that I’ve seen in quite a while. For this particular application, Ford factory service info makes no mention of needing to do that. The only things they mention: make sure the brake hose is not twisted on installation of the caliper, and when compressing the piston - protect the piston and bolts to avoid damage to those components. Interestingly, Ford factory service info even shows the use of a c-clamp and an old brake pad as a backer as an acceptable means for compressing the pistons.
Doesn’t hurt to take the extra precaution of opening the bleeders prior to compressing the pistons, and it’s always a good idea to flush out the brake fluid and replace with new whenever doing a brake job.
@@AKJeeper As you know Brian (from FordTechMakuloco) is a recognized UA-cam star and after years of working in a Ford Dealership he’s an acknowledged expert in the proper maintenance and repair of Ford F-150s.
He made a video about the importance (and financial incentive) for bleeding the brake bleeder screws before compressing the caliper pistons during a brake job. A1A emphasized the same thing but unlike Brian just used gravity to bleed the caliper. Here are the two links.
ua-cam.com/video/83H1uxQhdgI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/B1A2gTWqbfE/v-deo.html
Is this the same process for a 2010 f150 lariat?
Quick question I have a 2010 f150 do I have to open the bleeder valve when pushing the piston back in?
The Ford factory service data for this truck does not mention anything about opening the bleeder valve when pushing the piston back in.
I am changing out my caliper on my rear passenger side. The new caliper comes with new bolts, do i need to install the old Vibration dampener, or can i replace it with just a regular bolt?
You can replace it with a regular bolt. Ford was rather hit and miss whether these trucks came with the vibration dampener. I’ve personally never noticed any difference between having the dampener in or not, as far as brake noise is concerned.
PRO TIP: The vibration dampener is actually THREADED onto the caliper bolt
IN OTHER WORDS: If you dont have the grippy/grooved/serated wrench referenced in the video, put a pair of vice-grips on the dampener neck (just past the 10mm bolt head) and unscrew the dampener off the caliper bolt. Now you can just use a deep 10mm socket on the bolt head.
~*~*~ YOU'RE WELCOME! ~*~*~
Was the procedure exactly the same on the opposite side?
Yes. The other side is just a mirror image of the side shown on the video.
Are you selling wrenches or changing brakes
That anti vibration piece comes off just thread on like a nut
On the back of the dampener there is a cap you pop off with a torx, just loosen that right off the stud, then socket on the caliper bolt
Did you have to bleed them?
There was no need to bleed them as I did not open the bleeder screw or loosen the brake hose from the caliper.
As a head up, Ford Motor Company recommends that the bleeder screw is cracked open during compression of the caliper piston to relieve backwards pressure into the ABS module and also to drain the old heat "cooked" brake fluid from the piston. They warn this is important to prevent brake fluid from flowing backwards under pressure and damaging the ABS module which can be a $1,500-2,000 repair!
You forgot to show how to install the pads to the caliper and you didn't lubricate the pins
Not gonna lie I only watched to get the wrench and socket size then I came back and watched the rest after I did mine. You'd be a good instructor I liked the way you went through the steps. You'd definitely be able to have someone doing it that's never done work like that before.
Thanks so much for the kind words, and also for taking the time to leave a comment. Have a great day!
You forgot to clean the new rotor with brake cleaner 😅
Not necessary on these coated rotors - they come out of the packaging “ready to install”. Normal rotors, yes - you absolutely need to clean the oil off of them.