Everything about Sailrite is great, you make it possible with these videos to “pull off” projects I would have never attempted. My only suggestion on this video is while making the zipper plaque with a material that has a finished side, like naugehide, pay close attention to the way it goes together, not quite as easy as with sunbrella
Got my new workerB machine and took on this project as a novice, and the outcome was really good, a few things learned on the first cushion (out of 4) that will make the others look pro. One thing that I did was to use basting tape to make sure all corners aligned before sewing, for me as a beginner that was very helpful. Also the workerB is worth it, perfect speed control just like in the video, perfect stiches, very happy with that machine.
That is great news! We are so glad that your first cushion project went well, good job! Glad you like your new Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machine with the WorkerB Power Pack.
Regarding foam - rain through is great for "live-in-the-cockpit" cushions because of its fast drying capability and comfort factor. However, it can be a bit squishy to walk on, especially if you go for 3 inch thick versus 2 inch. After having a full set of cushions made using rain through foam, we decide to replace the foam in the small square forward port and starboard cushions with 3 inch closed cell foam to give better footing when exiting and entering the cockpit. Floatation foam also allowed these two cushions to do double duty as life cushions. Other tips - for easy cockpit locker opening, we patterned the cushions to cover each locker making raising the locker seats easier. To keep the cushions in place, add short fabric strips with a snaps on the bottom box sides of the cushions. These snap onto the sides of the locker hatches - like a saddle - so when stepping in and out of the cockpit your foot force won't pull the snaps apart. (Don't add snaps to the rear seat coaming as your foot force will generate pressure against the snap shear and they will unsnap.) Strips of military velcro along the rear bottom edges of the cushions and seats will also help keep the cushions in place when heeling. Adhesive military velcro will stick to fiberglass, but be sure to sew the velcro onto the cushions.
Just finished my first cabin cushion using this video (for the piping) and the V-berth video (for irregular shapes) . My cushions are not square , but are irregular shaped and rounded . VERY difficult first sewing project , but I made it through and it looks decent ! I used one long strip of boxing, wrapped around and overlapped the zipper plaque on both ends to provide a bit of “housing “ (sorry , I’m not a sewer so i don’t know the terms yet ) Maybe the ultra-feed I just ordered will help things go smoother for my next 7 cushions! . One thing is for sure; I would have NEVER taken on this project without these videos. Sailrite gets you through it with just what you need to know ! Thanks @Sailrite!!
Another phenomenal video -- thank you guys! I have this exact project coming up so knowing what size to make the cover in relation to the foam was a huge help. Thanks again!!!
Great video, just curious, you say you sew across the zipper on both ends of the zipper, do you actually sew across the plastic zipper teeth or just next to the end of the zipper? If you sew across the plastic zipper teeth, how do you keep the needle from hitting the teeth? Thanks again.
We do sew right over the teeth of the zipper. You can do this by rolling the sewing machcine's balance wheel by hand so as to go between the teeth and not break a needle. Do is very slowly.
My project is bottom seat cushions. I want to cut the existing in half for two bottom cushions. I am adding the 5 mil batting. Do I have to make the foam smaller due to the batting on the new side seams in order for them to fit the seat opening?
Really torn between using Phifertex vs the underlining fabric for cockpit cushions. I believe that the underlining would be less slippery but would the phifertex hold up longer? Do they shed water equally as fast. thanks so much
Hi Ohanakai4, I wouldn't say there is a big difference in water drainage or lifespan since both would be used on the bottom of the cushion. If you are concerned about slippage there is also a non slip underliner I have attached a link to that one below. www.sailrite.com/Super-Grip-Non-Slip-Cushion-Underlining-Black-54
Great video, thanks. My first project was fender covers, now I am on to some additional cushions so I can convert my salon table to a bed. There is no mention in the video regarding zipper length. Is there a rule of thumb?
Grouperhound Yes, the zipper can be shorter than the side or it may be made to extend all along the side. That total length desired is up to the fabricator. I just always order a zipper the same length plus a few inches for each cushion I need, so I have enough. The bigger the zipper opening the easier it is to insert the foam.
I'm interested in making a cushion for the stern of a C&C 29 ... the kind with the bubble or saddle in the middle. A challenging first time project for a cushion I fear. Have any video on this?
I recall in your how to make a stadium cushion video you said for cushions to add 1/2" to the boxing and cut out the top and bottom plates the same size as foam. Is this the same as adding a 1/4" to all ???
Here is the rule for building cushions: No rules, just do what works best! I have made cushions in many different ways, some I like better than others. Here is my preferred method for cutting plates and boxing for cushions -- Patterning: Create a pattern or take your geometric measurements. These should represent what the expected finished size of the cushion is to be. Cutting Plates: Cut Top and Bottom plates to the pattern, plus ¼” all around. Determine Boxing Width: Determine boxing width by measuring foam thickness (include batting, if any, under slight compression during measuring). To this measurement add between ¼” and ¾”. Keep in mind that thinner cushions look best with more allowance added and thicker cushions look best with less. Basically adding less of an allowance will allow the seams to roll into the edging of the cushion. Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks, Eric
Is there a reason that the port and starboard cushions extend all the way aft so that the aft cushion is smaller than it would be if the aft cushion went all the way across and the other two were shorter? I think I want my aft cushion to go all the way across, but there may be a good reason not to do it that way.
Hi Amanda, That cushion is smaller so that when the cockpit is not fully occupied you can remove the cushion and go down into the cabin without stepping on the cushion and without the side cushions possibly moving around.
Thank You for an excellent video - I am going to sew new fabric for my cushions and I will use the existing foam i have - do I have to "shrink" my pattern according to your instruction for the new foam you are showing at the end of your video? ( 0.5 inch in the width and 1 % at the length - to get the same tight look as in your video)
+Ane Samuelsen The foam should be slightly larger than the plates for a good fit. The desired finished size pattern usually has a 1/4" added on all sides of the plates. The foam is 1% larger than the desired finished pattern (usually no less than 1/2") so your plates shoud be about a 1/4" smaller all around your old foam.
We are using a V-92 Polyester thread for this Sunbrella Marine Grade fabric. If you use a Sunbrella Upholstery fabric I suggest using a V-69 Polyester thread. I like to sew with a stitch length of 5 to 6mm.
Yes, layering foam in a cushion is common. For example most sleeping mattresses are made by using layers of different types of foam. Typically a base foam (bottom layer) is what is called a “support foam”. This base foam is usually a high density Polyurethane firm foam from 4 to 6 inches in thickness. The next layer is typically a “comfort foam” and is typically a high density Polyurethane medium or soft foam from 2 to 3 inches in thickness. Then the top layer (if desired) is sometimes a memory foam from 2 to 3 inches in thickness. The overall thickness of the matters ranges from about 9 inches to 11 inches when all the layers are combined.
@@meowzic If you are talking about the foam you would need to glue sections or layers together. If they are not glued they may move around in the cushion cover.
+cnvw974 Yes, we do! Check out these two links: www.sailrite.com/easearch#!How-To-Instructions-Videos/Videos&ea_d=_1_ALL&ea_a=How-To%3AEnclosures and www.sailrite.com/easearch#!How-To-Instructions-Videos/Videos&ea_d=_1_ALL&ea_a=How-To%3AWindow-Installation
6:24 A skipped stitch... 6:42 Another skipped stitch. This project will get another stitch later, but if it didn't, those skipped stitches can cause a poor look, and worse, a weakened product. Nice job, Sailrite!
This 1.0125 isn't 1.25% it is actually 101.25% ok now 1.25% should look like this numerically 0.0125. Example 100" of fabric as follows 100×0.0125=1.25+100=101.25 total inches of material needed. Sorry the land surveyor in me couldn't let it go. The way he was explaining it you'd wind up with 125 inches of fabric
Sailrite consistently makes excellent, to the point, clear sewing videos! Thank you.
I can't think Sailrite enough for posting all of these amazing videos.
I am a loyal buyer / supporter of your site!
I wish we could buy your products in Australia. Your whole organisation is incredibly organised, professional and best practice
Your video’s are amazing , this is the future of great company’s that take pride in their product and industry, thankyou
Everything about Sailrite is great, you make it possible with these videos to “pull off” projects I would have never attempted. My only suggestion on this video is while making the zipper plaque with a material that has a finished side, like naugehide, pay close attention to the way it goes together, not quite as easy as with sunbrella
Wow, complete and thoroughly informative regarding best materials to use. Thank you very much!
Got my new workerB machine and took on this project as a novice, and the outcome was really good, a few things learned on the first cushion (out of 4) that will make the others look pro. One thing that I did was to use basting tape to make sure all corners aligned before sewing, for me as a beginner that was very helpful. Also the workerB is worth it, perfect speed control just like in the video, perfect stiches, very happy with that machine.
That is great news! We are so glad that your first cushion project went well, good job! Glad you like your new Sailrite Ultrafeed Sewing Machine with the WorkerB Power Pack.
Excellent videos. They move slow enough to catch important details but fast enough to not be tedious.
Regarding foam - rain through is great for "live-in-the-cockpit" cushions because of its fast drying capability and comfort factor. However, it can be a bit squishy to walk on, especially if you go for 3 inch thick versus 2 inch. After having a full set of cushions made using rain through foam, we decide to replace the foam in the small square forward port and starboard cushions with 3 inch closed cell foam to give better footing when exiting and entering the cockpit. Floatation foam also allowed these two cushions to do double duty as life cushions. Other tips - for easy cockpit locker opening, we patterned the cushions to cover each locker making raising the locker seats easier. To keep the cushions in place, add short fabric strips with a snaps on the bottom box sides of the cushions. These snap onto the sides of the locker hatches - like a saddle - so when stepping in and out of the cockpit your foot force won't pull the snaps apart. (Don't add snaps to the rear seat coaming as your foot force will generate pressure against the snap shear and they will unsnap.) Strips of military velcro along the rear bottom edges of the cushions and seats will also help keep the cushions in place when heeling. Adhesive military velcro will stick to fiberglass, but be sure to sew the velcro onto the cushions.
Just finished my first cabin cushion using this video (for the piping) and the V-berth video (for irregular shapes) . My cushions are not square , but are irregular shaped and rounded . VERY difficult first sewing project , but I made it through and it looks decent ! I used one long strip of boxing, wrapped around and overlapped the zipper plaque on both ends to provide a bit of “housing “ (sorry , I’m not a sewer so i don’t know the terms yet )
Maybe the ultra-feed I just ordered will help things go smoother for my next 7 cushions! . One thing is for sure; I would have NEVER taken on this project without these videos. Sailrite gets you through it with just what you need to know ! Thanks @Sailrite!!
We are so glad that you like our video. Thanks for ordering a Sailrite Sewing Machine. I hope your next 7 cushions come out great!
Another terrific lesson. Thanks.
Another great instructional video. Thank you Sailrite.
Another phenomenal video -- thank you guys! I have this exact project coming up so knowing what size to make the cover in relation to the foam was a huge help. Thanks again!!!
Angela does beautiful work.
Yes, she does and so do many of our customers!
Sailrite Tomorrow
Sailrite curtains
thankyou once again from Aotearoa New Zealand
these videos are just great!
you guys are awesome! more videos are insipiration to me
We are glad you like our videos. We will keep them coming as long as customers find them useful and they still buy our products.
Great video, just curious, you say you sew across the zipper on both ends of the zipper, do you actually sew across the plastic zipper teeth or just next to the end of the zipper? If you sew across the plastic zipper teeth, how do you keep the needle from hitting the teeth? Thanks again.
We do sew right over the teeth of the zipper. You can do this by rolling the sewing machcine's balance wheel by hand so as to go between the teeth and not break a needle. Do is very slowly.
Thanks that was a great informative video.
Glad you liked it. Let us know if you have any questions about our videos or our products at www.sailrite.com
Are there an videos that discuss adding a snap flap to the back of cabin cushion to snap it to the cabin? Thank you
My project is bottom seat cushions. I want to cut the existing in half for two bottom cushions. I am adding the 5 mil batting. Do I have to make the foam smaller due to the batting on the new side seams in order for them to fit the seat opening?
Really torn between using Phifertex vs the underlining fabric for cockpit cushions. I believe that the underlining would be less slippery but would the phifertex hold up longer? Do they shed water equally as fast. thanks so much
Hi Ohanakai4,
I wouldn't say there is a big difference in water drainage or lifespan since both would be used on the bottom of the cushion. If you are concerned about slippage there is also a non slip underliner I have attached a link to that one below.
www.sailrite.com/Super-Grip-Non-Slip-Cushion-Underlining-Black-54
Very nice job. Was wondering what you charge for the cushions
Your videos are awesome
this is so easy.. ill start tomorow.. 😳😳😳
Great video, thanks. My first project was fender covers, now I am on to some additional cushions so I can convert my salon table to a bed. There is no mention in the video regarding zipper length. Is there a rule of thumb?
Grouperhound The length of the zipper should always be the length of the cushion plus a few extra inches.
Ok. Thanks. It's just that when viewing the video the zipper looks measurably shorter than the cushion, say by at least 8".
Grouperhound Yes, the zipper can be shorter than the side or it may be made to extend all along the side. That total length desired is up to the fabricator. I just always order a zipper the same length plus a few inches for each cushion I need, so I have enough. The bigger the zipper opening the easier it is to insert the foam.
I'm interested in making a cushion for the stern of a C&C 29 ... the kind with the bubble or saddle in the middle. A challenging first time project for a cushion I fear. Have any video on this?
Rupe51 At this time we do not have a video showing how to accomplish a cushions like that, sorry.
Sailrite I'll keep watching - I learned a whole lot from this one! Many thanks.
beautiful & teaching
I recall in your how to make a stadium cushion video you said for cushions to add 1/2" to the boxing and cut out the top and bottom plates the same size as foam. Is this the same as adding a 1/4" to all ???
Here is the rule for building cushions: No rules, just do what works best! I have made cushions in many different ways, some I like better than others. Here is my preferred method for cutting plates and boxing for cushions --
Patterning:
Create a pattern or take your geometric measurements. These should represent what the expected finished size of the cushion is to be.
Cutting Plates:
Cut Top and Bottom plates to the pattern, plus ¼” all around.
Determine Boxing Width:
Determine boxing width by measuring foam thickness (include batting, if any, under slight compression during measuring). To this measurement add between ¼” and ¾”. Keep in mind that thinner cushions look best with more allowance added and thicker cushions look best with less. Basically adding less of an allowance will allow the seams to roll into the edging of the cushion.
Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks, Eric
Thanks
Is there a reason that the port and starboard cushions extend all the way aft so that the aft cushion is smaller than it would be if the aft cushion went all the way across and the other two were shorter? I think I want my aft cushion to go all the way across, but there may be a good reason not to do it that way.
Hi Amanda,
That cushion is smaller so that when the cockpit is not fully occupied you can remove the cushion and go down into the cabin without stepping on the cushion and without the side cushions possibly moving around.
Thank You for an excellent video - I am going to sew new fabric for my cushions and I will use the existing foam i have - do I have to "shrink" my pattern according to your instruction for the new foam you are showing at the end of your video? ( 0.5 inch in the width and 1 % at the length - to get the same tight look as in your video)
+Ane Samuelsen The foam should be slightly larger than the plates for a good fit. The desired finished size pattern usually has a 1/4" added on all sides of the plates. The foam is 1% larger than the desired finished pattern (usually no less than 1/2") so your plates shoud be about a 1/4" smaller all around your old foam.
Thanks for video I got a good idea!!!!
Perfect! Let us know if you have questions.
Any thought of posting the materials list found at the end of the video here, or above in the UA-cam info box where you have the chapters listed?
Rupe51 Great suggestion, it is done. Thanks!!!!
Sailrite Can't wait to get my big magnet... and all the other stuff I just ordered, lol !!
Oh boy Angela on right and left. I bet after a day of boating she wants to park her boat the rest of us Dock ours and park our cars lol
What type of thread and stitch length did you use to make the Marine cushions?
We are using a V-92 Polyester thread for this Sunbrella Marine Grade fabric. If you use a Sunbrella Upholstery fabric I suggest using a V-69 Polyester thread. I like to sew with a stitch length of 5 to 6mm.
thanks to your videos i was able to reappolster my car
Can you layer the boxing cushions, say if I want to layer it with a memory foam topper?
This will be an indoor cushion.
Yes, layering foam in a cushion is common. For example most sleeping mattresses are made by using layers of different types of foam. Typically a base foam (bottom layer) is what is called a “support foam”. This base foam is usually a high density Polyurethane firm foam from 4 to 6 inches in thickness. The next layer is typically a “comfort foam” and is typically a high density Polyurethane medium or soft foam from 2 to 3 inches in thickness. Then the top layer (if desired) is sometimes a memory foam from 2 to 3 inches in thickness. The overall thickness of the matters ranges from about 9 inches to 11 inches when all the layers are combined.
@@SailriteDIY would you need to stitch the cushions together, or do you just stack them inside the cushion cover?
@@meowzic If you are talking about the foam you would need to glue sections or layers together. If they are not glued they may move around in the cushion cover.
Do you have any videos making vinyl Windows? (I looked but didn't see any)
+cnvw974 Yes, we do! Check out these two links: www.sailrite.com/easearch#!How-To-Instructions-Videos/Videos&ea_d=_1_ALL&ea_a=How-To%3AEnclosures
and
www.sailrite.com/easearch#!How-To-Instructions-Videos/Videos&ea_d=_1_ALL&ea_a=How-To%3AWindow-Installation
Hi sailrite,if you dont mind what do u charge for a job like that?
Sorry, we do not sew custom jobs, we sell the materials, tools and show how to DIY only.
Hey@@SailriteDIYare those employee's boats?
Good thanks very
The sizes given by the calculator do not match the methodology in your video vis a vis the zipper boxing.
that sewing machine you use?
Giandomenico Fugazzotto tipple one sewing machine
6:24 A skipped stitch... 6:42 Another skipped stitch. This project will get another stitch later, but if it didn't, those skipped stitches can cause a poor look, and worse, a weakened product. Nice job, Sailrite!
Silicone spray the foam and it slides in!
Andre Laviolette Excellent suggestion. I have never tried that.
it works!
what sort of pencil are they using as they work?
We used a #2 pencil.
👍👍👍
I drool
Is this material cat proof?
If the cat's claws are removed, yes.
angela vous êtes géniale !
Merci!
@@SailriteDIY hi I am from pakistan .and bote upholstery work in dubahi in 5 year .I want to job sailrite .0521757448
You need to start selling your gear in the UK people....... Come to the UK..
This 1.0125 isn't 1.25% it is actually 101.25% ok now 1.25% should look like this numerically 0.0125. Example 100" of fabric as follows 100×0.0125=1.25+100=101.25 total inches of material needed. Sorry the land surveyor in me couldn't let it go. The way he was explaining it you'd wind up with 125 inches of fabric
🤔
port