Nice diag and repair! Yup classic Ford takes 40 minutes to fall asleep. Even in the 90s they took 40 minutes with their smart Generic Electronic Modules lol 😂
@@autodiagyt yup and those are the ones with the most parasitic drain problems too so it takes a very systematic approach to diag the problem efficiently without waking the car up too many times haha
Keeping a battery on a maintainer set to 12.6V overnight will not charge that battery. It needs at least 14.0V for it to charge in a meaningful way, overnight. So your Pico battery judgement was accurate. Battery was deemed to be good but just at 20% state of charge. It would probably be able to provide its rated CCA if it were fully charged. Besides what your Pico tested, that battery's service life has been shortened considerably by those drains, so replacing it is a good idea. But not a necessity, in this case.
Hi, and yes I always get caught going from AMPs to Voltages on my multimeter with changing the positive lead back and then blowing slow draw fuse!! 😯😆😁
Nice catch and good confirmation diag. Just small tip, due to experience I've had with factory information, it's not surprising to have vehicles fall asleep after an hour or more, some 70mins.... just knowing that.... I always set up the draw and walk away and start checking after the hour mark and monitor amperage from there for possible draw. It's always a safe bet at that point if don't know the specific sleep time. Thanks for sharing as always.
Modren vehicles are computers on wheels.ivan(phad) had similar case and its nuts that you have to buy whole bunch of softwares to resolve just a plug and play stuff. Great detailed 👌 video.
a little tip on the meter fuse. get ya a male and a female banana plug and solder it onto an inline fuse holder and put a smaller fuse than whats in your meter in it. hook it inline with one of your leads. quick to change and no meed to pop the back of the meter off to change it. a lot cheaper too.
great video thanks .at work that we have IDS i wish it could back up all on pdf easy way all info we want .that print sceen was te only way .thanks for sharing
@@autodiagyt my favorite battery test is real world old school: with a fully charged battery leave the lights and key on for 10 minutes. If car cranks and starts fine after that draw then battery health is still acceptable 😁
I used to watch some others religious but after finding ur channel I like urs better. I think as techs our biggest hang up in electrical when testing is what is it we are supposed to c. And wiring is hard for alot of folks because of this.
At 7:00 into the video, you killed my theory of water intrusion in the trunk module - I guess that would be too easy 🙂Turned out to be the RGTM, but not for the reason I expected.
Seems risky to me, to leave a vehicle with parasitic draw, inside the garage. Amperage that isn't doing work, is creating heat, somewhere... Fire potential.
Nice diag and repair! Yup classic Ford takes 40 minutes to fall asleep. Even in the 90s they took 40 minutes with their smart Generic Electronic Modules lol 😂
@@autodiagyt yup and those are the ones with the most parasitic drain problems too so it takes a very systematic approach to diag the problem efficiently without waking the car up too many times haha
Keeping a battery on a maintainer set to 12.6V overnight will not charge that battery. It needs at least 14.0V for it to charge in a meaningful way, overnight.
So your Pico battery judgement was accurate. Battery was deemed to be good but just at 20% state of charge. It would probably be able to provide its rated CCA if it were fully charged.
Besides what your Pico tested, that battery's service life has been shortened considerably by those drains, so replacing it is a good idea. But not a necessity, in this case.
Hi, and yes I always get caught going from AMPs to Voltages on my multimeter with changing the positive lead back and then blowing slow draw fuse!! 😯😆😁
Jake thanks for sharing. Appreciate the way you show us your through troubleshooting procedures. Thanks again and waiting on the next video 👍 Artie
Nice catch and good confirmation diag. Just small tip, due to experience I've had with factory information, it's not surprising to have vehicles fall asleep after an hour or more, some 70mins.... just knowing that.... I always set up the draw and walk away and start checking after the hour mark and monitor amperage from there for possible draw. It's always a safe bet at that point if don't know the specific sleep time. Thanks for sharing as always.
Great walk through of this fix, Jake. Thanks for adding the FJDS software steps, too! 👍🏼
Another great job, Another great video, Please keep them coming,
Modren vehicles are computers on wheels.ivan(phad) had similar case and its nuts that you have to buy whole bunch of softwares to resolve just a plug and play stuff. Great detailed 👌 video.
loving the videos, i hope to see more programming videos, and the equipment your using.
Thanks for sharing Jake, I am really enjoying your diag videos & look forward to every new one.
Hey that was a great video! I got a couple of good pointers from this one. Thanks for sharing!
Enjoyed watching this Diagnostic video... Great job man
Cool video Jake enjoyed your thought process.keep the videos coming bro
Your IM608 has a replace module function that automatically transfers data to new module for Fords
I'm starting to do programming at my shop. What brand of battery maintainer would you recommend? Great vid as usual 👌
Fords were designed for diog work. 😁 Excellent video!! 👍
You'd think that software engineers would be able to program their PCM to recognize and flag what is keeping the system awake.
It would make our jobs a little more easy if they did. Knowing where to start with network problems is always the hardest for me
Another win. Thanks for sharing! What is acceptable v drop for a battery in pico test? 8.5?
a little tip on the meter fuse. get ya a male and a female banana plug and solder it onto an inline fuse holder and put a smaller fuse than whats in your meter in it. hook it inline with one of your leads. quick to change and no meed to pop the back of the meter off to change it. a lot cheaper too.
To fully charge standard acid battery they need to he charged with 16.2v and below 2A to be fully charged.
👍 thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir
I hope you aren't giving up on us. I need some work done.
great video thanks .at work that we have IDS i wish it could back up all on pdf easy way all info we want .that print sceen was te only way .thanks for sharing
nice job my friend, would have been nice to have had a key slot
I didn't know pico had that software that looks awesome
@@autodiagyt can you use the 2,000 series with it or do you need the newer version for it to work properly.
@@autodiagyt my favorite battery test is real world old school: with a fully charged battery leave the lights and key on for 10 minutes. If car cranks and starts fine after that draw then battery health is still acceptable 😁
Great content. Keep up the good work
Great job 👍
Why not load test battery old school with carbon pile? Disconnect from vehicle before load test. Never failed me yet.
great video and diag content, good job
Isn’t this a known issue with these? But you got skills always checking data lines if the busses are awake for a drain test
Good stuff!
good job bro
i have blown one or three lol not my fluke though she is my tool box queen 👍👍
Why did dash stay lit?
VERY COOL ,,,,,,,,,,,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Assume the dash went to sleep?
Where do you buy that ford software?
The ford motorcraft website. Sorry I don’t remember the specific sites you can find links to all OE software on nastf
@@autodiagyt thanks for pointing in the right direction.
What pass thru were u using
I used to watch some others religious but after finding ur channel I like urs better. I think as techs our biggest hang up in electrical when testing is what is it we are supposed to c. And wiring is hard for alot of folks because of this.
At 7:00 into the video, you killed my theory of water intrusion in the trunk module - I guess that would be too easy 🙂Turned out to be the RGTM, but not for the reason I expected.
@@autodiagyt Yep. Moral of the story: Not always is water the culprit in trunks 🙂
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
💖💖
Seems risky to me, to leave a vehicle with parasitic draw, inside the garage. Amperage that isn't doing work, is creating heat, somewhere... Fire potential.