Same happened to me with the Sony A7IV and a Sigma 24-70 F2.8 ART Lens. I’m like almost 4K in camera equipment and what the hell is this banding. I thought the camera was broken. Lol
In the U.S. the power grid is 60 Hz (On/Off 60 times per second) 1/60 shutter speed fixes this problem or if your camera has variable shutter you can run 1/60 and/or 1/119.9 and it gets rid of the banding. Think in multiples of 60. 🤙🏻 We recently shot some videos for a client inside of a car painting booth with fluorescent bulbs EVERYWHERE. Not only do they flicker like mad but, they cast a green hue. We fixed all the problems by punching two Amaran 200D at the ceiling to get some clean light in there and then ran both Sony FX cameras at shutter 1/60. The camera filming in 59.94 fps we ran it at 1/119.9 shutter speed and that worked great. Also, in Davinci Resolve there is a tool in the effects panel which De flickers footage if you ever have flickering footage. Happy shooting! 🤙🏻😎
I'm new to photography and video and I was worried that my camera wasn't working properly.. this resolved my issue perfectly.. lighting is so important. Thank you Jordan.
@@动漫区漫哥 In Hollywood they spent millions of budget on light technicians to get it all right, so they can stick to the 180 rule. If you are shooting events, the lighting is aimed at providing an experience to visitors, not with a focus on the photo- or videographer, meaning we have to get creative and play with the toolset we have at hand that is not costing us a fortune, nor settles us up with the need of putting bulky lights in the way of the guests and especially the bride and groom, for capturing non-forced, natural shots.
omg i thought my phone camera was broken, but it was just my night lamp wtf, first setting everything is fine but second setting that is less bright of the lamp this started happening on my phone camera rapidly
I'm a photographer but I used to be a nuclear engineer and work on power plants so we were trained in electrical systems. So I have an interesting blend of knowledge on how electronics interact with shutter speed. If the lights flicker at 1/60 Hz and you shoot 1/50 SS you'll get banding because each scan of your sensor scans a full cycle of the lights plus another 20% of your sensor will scan a second light cycle creating a band by about 1 stop brighter (if that's the only light) that is as big as 20% of your screen. The more lights that are in sync with your camera the less pronounced the band will be. Most likely the circuitry wasn't made for US electrical systems that operate at 60Hz. If you're in Europe 50Hz is more common but really bad circuitry has variable frequencies and it may be that no shutter speed syncs with it perfectly. So there are times when 1/60 or 1/120 will give you less banding than 1/50. If the lights cycle at 60Hz. So you might consider using 30fps because it gives you the 180 degree rule and syncs better with US electronics. Another way is you could use a global shutter or 1/30 shutter speed.
Yeah - it's a weird concept if the shutter speed is longer than the frame rate. I think for many types of shooting - in particular live music videos in low light, 24fps and 1/25th shutter speed works well. With two mirrorless cameras I like to select an aperture that is the widest on the slowest lens and use it on both cameras. So f6.3, 24fps, 1/25th second - then, in manual mode, simply find the ISO results in the exposure you want as you view it through the electronic viewfinder.
Thank you for your video, however going down to 1/25 of a sec when people are actively moving around.... isnt that asking for blurry videos?? correct me if am wrong ... anyone, thanks in advance
i have the problem where i don't see the lines on my camera when i'm shooting but when i check my pictures on my computer or even on my camera image gallery i see them. Anyone have any tips?
Apparently it’s caused by the rolling shutter in the camera as it updates the image of each frame from top to bottom. That’s why you get a jello effect when you pan quickly from left to right. Cameras which use a global shutter do not have this side-effect.
I just bought a used g7x Mark II and had a problem with this in my house. I thought the camera was faulty. Thanks for the video! Also, it only happens in the kitchen. No matter what I do. Lights on or off, it still happens in that room only. As soon as I exit that room, it's fine. Wierd, lol.
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
Thank you for this video. I was pretty damn scared, because I am starting to learn how to use cameras properly, and I hadn't had these issues until recently. Thought I broke the camera
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
Here’s my issue with switching between NTSC and PAL, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting. Definitely could’ve included that aspect of this in the video, so appreciate you explaining this!
@@JordanNelson no yeah i compltely understand where your coming from, ive pretty much just stuck to 1 now though! after a bit more use in differnt lighting conditions, ive found, that just sticking to the multiple rule, whilst in reference to whatever your Hz your areas Alternating Current, it should help a lot.
But what about that rule who says your shutter speed should be double than your fps. I always follow this rule & got some banding in dark light situations. I was shooting on 30 fps with 1/60th of shutter speed.
That's exactly the type of scenario I was testing for in this video - because ideally you would have your own lighting setup to avoid breaking that shutter speed rule. However, the test here was to determine how much I could break that shutter speed rule without noticeably downgrading the quality of the video.
it is normal that ive never a waving horizontal banding before, whatever the type of light and the shutter speed and it's appear just like that ? It is my sensor broken ?
At 1/50 I could barely tell on my monitor. Depending on where in the reception hall I was point my camera, it was more or less noticeable. Was holding out hope that it wouldn’t look too bad. Wasn’t terrible, but this alternative seems better to me!
just had this problem today & it was hard to see on the camera screen, like you would really need to look carefully, maybe aim the camera at a wall or something
I don’t think it’s necessarily specific to the Sony a7iii or Tamron lens. I think a lot of it just has to do with the type of lighting you’re shooting under.
Love this! I have my very first wedding this November and I am SO nervous but SO excited. Just bought myself a Canon 5D Mark IV and a 24-70, but Ive heard I should definitely rent another camera... any tips on a first wedding would be amazing! (shots to look out for, gear, communication, what to bring, anything at all!!)
You got this!! I have a whole playlist of wedding filmmaking tutorials you can check out and see what sparks your interest! ua-cam.com/play/PLFFMBJfSwsOynFQX1XEDx72Cl7Z-sAmx6.html I also created an interactive PDF guide titled "The Beginner's Guide to Wedding Filmmaking" that I hope will be helpful! www.jordannelsonproductions.com/wedding-filmmaking-guide/the-beginners-guide-to-wedding-filmmaking
Awesome video man. Just ran into this problem this past weekend shooting a wedding. Have you had any problems come up shooting at 24fps below 1/50 shutter speed? (Ex. 1/40, 1/30, 1/25)?
1/60 doesn’t work either (that was one of the tests at the very beginning of the video)- no matter what shutter speed I use in NTSC at or faster than 1/50, banding shows up under certain types of lighting. I have heard folks say to switch to PAL instead of using NTSC. But here’s my issue with that, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting.
The Panosonic GH5 has a great feature called syncro scan which lets you adjust the shutter speed in small amounts- very helpful for these types of issues!
One question. If I use the Ar7 ii with a lightning trigger (for lightning photography) do you thing that I will get banding? I'm thinking about using f10 exp 1/10 iso 100. With the efcs (because it has the lowest shutter lag).
good test thank you,,,I just encountered this problem while making New Years Eve vid at 1/50th SS ,,,, guess should of watched this first :) liked,,thx again
I'm trying out 1000 FPS (and 1/1000s I guess..?), so I have to look for another video :-). Thanks anyway. Good video. Good explanations and presentation.
some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
NOT What I asked Google About. I am Talking about While Watching A Video On UA-cam or Any Other Site and you get what looks like a Digital Compression Strip going Horizontal.. Specially while Scrolling Up/Down but even just as the Video plays.. Even If No Video. Google was doing it while I was Scrolling..
Hi.... God and informative video... But 180 degree shutter rule??? You could call it the 'times two' shutter rule... The 180 degree rule is a rule used to position the camera one one side of (180 degree) the scenes line of action... Lije in football or tennis. If you move the camera to the other side of the action line (goal to goal) your favorit team suddenly score a goal in their own end...
Haha yeah I agree the ”times two” rule would be a simpler, more intuitive name for it! But the “180 degree shutter rule” is the industry standard naming convention for it - here’s a good explanation: www.polarprofilters.com/blogs/polarpro/how-shutter-speed-affects-video And yes there’s also that 180 degree rule as you explained as well. Just two different concepts with similar names.
@@JordanNelson Hi Jordan... No it's No 'industri standard' name for it. It's just youtubers misinterpretation of something they obviously know nothing about, multiplying factor n on YT and social media. Just because a few people can't tell an eagle from a sparrow and misuses ones name for the other, doesn't make the sparrow an eagle 😉🤪... No matter how many picks up the misunderstanding.... 😁🤠
@@JordanNelson some science behind it.. that may help you Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,. Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you. you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa. Camera HZ PAL = 50hz NTSC = 60hz UK AC = 50hz America AC = 60 hz So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
That's largely due to the AC electric frequency....for Europe the Electric power is at 50Hz while in US it's 60Hz. So, if you use 1/50 shutter speed in Europe (or any other PAL region) , and 1/60 in US (NTSC region) the banding disappears.
I thought i broke my camera in less than a day!! Thanks to you!!!
Yeah I thought my new ZV1 was broken
Saaaame lol
Ohh shit i got this with the zv1 too xD
I was like shittttt i pay too much money for this lol thank god 🤣🤣
Same happened to me with the Sony A7IV and a Sigma 24-70 F2.8 ART Lens. I’m like almost 4K in camera equipment and what the hell is this banding. I thought the camera was broken. Lol
LOL me too 😂
In the U.S. the power grid is 60 Hz (On/Off 60 times per second)
1/60 shutter speed fixes this problem or if your camera has variable shutter you can run 1/60 and/or 1/119.9 and it gets rid of the banding. Think in multiples of 60. 🤙🏻
We recently shot some videos for a client inside of a car painting booth with fluorescent bulbs EVERYWHERE. Not only do they flicker like mad but, they cast a green hue. We fixed all the problems by punching two Amaran 200D at the ceiling to get some clean light in there and then ran both Sony FX cameras at shutter 1/60. The camera filming in 59.94 fps we ran it at 1/119.9 shutter speed and that worked great.
Also, in Davinci Resolve there is a tool in the effects panel which De flickers footage if you ever have flickering footage.
Happy shooting!
🤙🏻😎
I'm new to photography and video and I was worried that my camera wasn't working properly.. this resolved my issue perfectly.. lighting is so important. Thank you Jordan.
Thank you for getting right to the point and not over-explaining like so many other tuts do. My problem is solved!
This video maker are totally wrong, in hollywood filmming, shutter angle should be locked in 180.
@@动漫区漫哥 In Hollywood they spent millions of budget on light technicians to get it all right, so they can stick to the 180 rule. If you are shooting events, the lighting is aimed at providing an experience to visitors, not with a focus on the photo- or videographer, meaning we have to get creative and play with the toolset we have at hand that is not costing us a fortune, nor settles us up with the need of putting bulky lights in the way of the guests and especially the bride and groom, for capturing non-forced, natural shots.
@@flyingbear_fpv9291 Yes, you are right, thank you for your information, I learned a lot.
Thank you. I was ready to return my 5D Mark IV assuming it was defective. This video is a life saver.
omg i thought my phone camera was broken, but it was just my night lamp wtf, first setting everything is fine but second setting that is less bright of the lamp this started happening on my phone camera rapidly
I'm a photographer but I used to be a nuclear engineer and work on power plants so we were trained in electrical systems. So I have an interesting blend of knowledge on how electronics interact with shutter speed.
If the lights flicker at 1/60 Hz and you shoot 1/50 SS you'll get banding because each scan of your sensor scans a full cycle of the lights plus another 20% of your sensor will scan a second light cycle creating a band by about 1 stop brighter (if that's the only light) that is as big as 20% of your screen. The more lights that are in sync with your camera the less pronounced the band will be. Most likely the circuitry wasn't made for US electrical systems that operate at 60Hz. If you're in Europe 50Hz is more common but really bad circuitry has variable frequencies and it may be that no shutter speed syncs with it perfectly.
So there are times when 1/60 or 1/120 will give you less banding than 1/50. If the lights cycle at 60Hz. So you might consider using 30fps because it gives you the 180 degree rule and syncs better with US electronics. Another way is you could use a global shutter or 1/30 shutter speed.
I 100% needed this explanation. shot something yesterday and my footage had horrible banding...
great explanation- just happened to me and i was shocked to that 1/50 it was giving me this. Thanks so much
Just came across this and found you. Thank for this little experiment. It was helpful! Appreciate you
Yeah - it's a weird concept if the shutter speed is longer than the frame rate. I think for many types of shooting - in particular live music videos in low light, 24fps and 1/25th shutter speed works well. With two mirrorless cameras I like to select an aperture that is the widest on the slowest lens and use it on both cameras. So f6.3, 24fps, 1/25th second - then, in manual mode, simply find the ISO results in the exposure you want as you view it through the electronic viewfinder.
Thanks. It happened to me at 125 speed. Wish I had access to this video when it was actually happening during my event.
My guy immediately knew why we clicked on this video 🙌🙌🙌
Thank you!! This was so helpful, you deserve more subs!!!
Thank you for your video, however going down to 1/25 of a sec when people are actively moving around.... isnt that asking for blurry videos?? correct me if am wrong ... anyone, thanks in advance
I have led light in my room and they are doing the same thing. Do you know how I can fix it on my phone ?
Yeah this happens with me too for some reason
Can you fix it in post though?
Do not think so.
I think you need to go up to 1/60 and shoot at 30fps. It has to do with AC electricity.
Why can't I adjust shutter speed for video footage? It only works in manual mode. I'm using a Canon eos rebel t3i
I have the same problem, any tips how to remove it? or tutorials? Thank you.
i have the problem where i don't see the lines on my camera when i'm shooting but when i check my pictures on my computer or even on my camera image gallery i see them. Anyone have any tips?
I ended up with banding and was only shooting with my aperture 200d, not sure how to avoid it.
Great vid.. You explained it very clearly compared to others videos i've watched. Thank you. Support ❤️
This deserve more subs
What if your trying to make sure you can slow footage down and have to stay at a higher Shutter speed?
Look into adjusting your frame rate/shutter speed on your camera to stop the flickering in your video👍
How do you get rid of the effect like that on your TV while filming? I want to record my TV screen with my phone camera
Apparently it’s caused by the rolling shutter in the camera as it updates the image of each frame from top to bottom. That’s why you get a jello effect when you pan quickly from left to right. Cameras which use a global shutter do not have this side-effect.
Did you manage to fix que footage in post? I'm that situation right now :(
happened to me yesterday. I saw it on my screen but does it record the footage like that or is it just an issue with the LCD Screen??
Unless you’re dealing with a totally different issue, it’ll show up in your footage unfortunately :(
UK is 50hz, USA 60Hz but aircraft interiors are 400hz. Do these low shutter speeds work for 400hz?
Can you use an ND filter?
Battery powered(DC) light should not be this issue right?
anyway to fix in post?
I just bought a used g7x Mark II and had a problem with this in my house. I thought the camera was faulty. Thanks for the video!
Also, it only happens in the kitchen. No matter what I do. Lights on or off, it still happens in that room only. As soon as I exit that room, it's fine. Wierd, lol.
a lot of kitchens use wall plug LED's which are awful for it
some science behind it.. that may help you
Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i
America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,.
Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you.
you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa.
Camera HZ
PAL = 50hz
NTSC = 60hz
UK AC = 50hz
America AC = 60 hz
So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc
if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
Thank you for this video. I was pretty damn scared, because I am starting to learn how to use cameras properly, and I hadn't had these issues until recently. Thought I broke the camera
Can I mix my B at 40 shutter speed with my camera A that will be at 60 shutter speed? What do you think? Thanks.
some science behind it.. that may help you
Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i
America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,.
Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you.
you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa.
Camera HZ
PAL = 50hz
NTSC = 60hz
UK AC = 50hz
America AC = 60 hz
So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc
if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
Here’s my issue with switching between NTSC and PAL, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting. Definitely could’ve included that aspect of this in the video, so appreciate you explaining this!
@@JordanNelson no yeah i compltely understand where your coming from, ive pretty much just stuck to 1 now though! after a bit more use in differnt lighting conditions, ive found, that just sticking to the multiple rule, whilst in reference to whatever your Hz your areas Alternating Current, it should help a lot.
You have solved my issue big time. Thank you thank you
Thank you so much man! you are a lifesaver
SIR WHEN I SHOT PICTURE IN JPEG FORMATE THIS LINES SHOWN BUT WHEN I SHOOT RAW PHOTOO THIS LINE DIDNT APPEAR ON SAME SETTI G
I thought there was something wrong with my camera. Saved my ass. Thanks.
If you have it on a tv... pwm.
Does it affect your eyes?
I think it does.
But i´m not certain
This helped a lot Thank you!!!
Thanks for this clear answer and explanation with examples. I'll try this out, though does it matter if I shoot at 25fps or go to 24fps at 1/25?
But what about that rule who says your shutter speed should be double than your fps. I always follow this rule & got some banding in dark light situations. I was shooting on 30 fps with 1/60th of shutter speed.
That's exactly the type of scenario I was testing for in this video - because ideally you would have your own lighting setup to avoid breaking that shutter speed rule. However, the test here was to determine how much I could break that shutter speed rule without noticeably downgrading the quality of the video.
Ehat camera you use?
it is normal that ive never a waving horizontal banding before, whatever the type of light and the shutter speed and it's appear just like that ? It is my sensor broken ?
Were you able to see this on your back monitor or did you discover this once you got home
At 1/50 I could barely tell on my monitor. Depending on where in the reception hall I was point my camera, it was more or less noticeable. Was holding out hope that it wouldn’t look too bad. Wasn’t terrible, but this alternative seems better to me!
just had this problem today & it was hard to see on the camera screen, like you would really need to look carefully, maybe aim the camera at a wall or something
Extremely helpful
yeah but what if i need to shoot hfr in a wedding venue? 120fps = ~240 shutter speed
Unless they let you setup your own lights, there’s really nothing much you can do but try to save it in post if it’s already been shot :/
Exactly what I needed
funny i have the same sony a7iii and tamron lens with the same banding issues. Should i just return and get a canon?
I don’t think it’s necessarily specific to the Sony a7iii or Tamron lens. I think a lot of it just has to do with the type of lighting you’re shooting under.
Love this! I have my very first wedding this November and I am SO nervous but SO excited. Just bought myself a Canon 5D Mark IV and a 24-70, but Ive heard I should definitely rent another camera... any tips on a first wedding would be amazing! (shots to look out for, gear, communication, what to bring, anything at all!!)
You got this!! I have a whole playlist of wedding filmmaking tutorials you can check out and see what sparks your interest! ua-cam.com/play/PLFFMBJfSwsOynFQX1XEDx72Cl7Z-sAmx6.html
I also created an interactive PDF guide titled "The Beginner's Guide to Wedding Filmmaking" that I hope will be helpful! www.jordannelsonproductions.com/wedding-filmmaking-guide/the-beginners-guide-to-wedding-filmmaking
if I can be your +1 to the wedding I'll hold your camera gear for you lol
Great content, but can we lower the background music? I'm here to find out information, not listen to music..
What about vertical?
Awesome video man. Just ran into this problem this past weekend shooting a wedding. Have you had any problems come up shooting at 24fps below 1/50 shutter speed? (Ex. 1/40, 1/30, 1/25)?
I was seeing this banding in the screen but not in the footage itself
*Update: it was in the footage. This was after accidentally dropping the camera off of my bed. I did a restart and that problem seemed to go away
I think you should be at 1/60th as you are in the US (NTSC region)
It has to do with the light frequently
1/60 doesn’t work either (that was one of the tests at the very beginning of the video)- no matter what shutter speed I use in NTSC at or faster than 1/50, banding shows up under certain types of lighting. I have heard folks say to switch to PAL instead of using NTSC. But here’s my issue with that, at least in my setup. Whenever I switch from NTSC to PAL, it formats all video currently on my SD card - at least thats what happens on my Sony A7iii. Even if I remove my SD card, switch from NTSC to PAL, then reinsert the card, it’ll make me reformat it. In the U.S, I use NTSC for the entire wedding day. For those few shots that are under PAL-compatible lighting, I would need to use brand new memory cards. That’s not super practical during the wedding day. I suppose a fix that I excluded in my video was using brand new memory cards that you only shoot PAL for that particular shoot. Or using a second camera that only shoots PAL for that shoot. Switching between the two on the same memory cards isn’t doable in my setup. But it sounds like other cameras may have the capability to switch between the two without formatting.
@@JordanNelson oh I see. I am on the canon side. Doesn't have to deal with switching cards :)
Anyways thanks for the insight!
Very useful thanks! New sub
What camera you use bro?
This is soooo helpful!! Thank you so much!
can I get any sort of filter for my lens to stop this happening? any advice would be great :)
This helped man thanks !
The Panosonic GH5 has a great feature called syncro scan which lets you adjust the shutter speed in small amounts- very helpful for these types of issues!
Everything I hear about the GH5 makes me want 12 of them 😂
@@JordanNelson Haha I have just the one and its a fantastic filmmaking camera! and I was using Sony before!
A7iv got the feature. You can pick the shutter speed you want to align with light. You can select 1/47 for exemple or 1/48
@@JordanNelson Sony also have this feature.
Thank you for the video!
Thanks that worked !!
Thanks brother❤
The sensor operates at 1/30 so anything slower than that will eliminate banding.
Ty!!
Sadly I found this video after my friend's wedding 😭
Me too
Waooo ima try it thanks
One question. If I use the Ar7 ii with a lightning trigger (for lightning photography) do you thing that I will get banding? I'm thinking about using f10 exp 1/10 iso 100. With the efcs (because it has the lowest shutter lag).
good test thank you,,,I just encountered this problem while making New Years Eve vid at 1/50th SS ,,,, guess should of watched this first :) liked,,thx again
Hope it helps for your future vids!!
sorry to say but I shot a footage with 120fps interior and I faced this problem even using 180°
very helpful! thank you
Thank you
Thanks man preciate it💯 liked and subbed
Thank you bro! helped me a lot!!!
I'm trying out 1000 FPS (and 1/1000s I guess..?), so I have to look for another video :-). Thanks anyway. Good video. Good explanations and presentation.
Big Ups to ya! Great informative tip👊❗
Much appreciated!!
hey jordan, are you based in phoenix? would love to collab
I’m based in Peoria, IL - as opposed to Peoria, AZ haha! When winter hits us I’m gonna wish I was based in Phoenix 😂
@@JordanNelson haha totally understand, be safe out there brotha
I really appreciate your help!!!
I thought a demon came into our bedroom and wanted sloppy seconds with my wife... damn ghosts possessing my recording devices again
I thought my phone camera was broken until i saw this.
Thank you ❤️
This happens to me with natural light and blue sky
THANKSSSS!!
THANK...YOU!!!
ATTENTION!!!! TRY GOING UP TO 1/60TH ON SHUTTER TO REMOVE BANDING & FLICKER
some science behind it.. that may help you
Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i
America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,.
Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you.
you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa.
Camera HZ
PAL = 50hz
NTSC = 60hz
UK AC = 50hz
America AC = 60 hz
So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc
if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
I tried that in the video and still had banding unfortunately :(
NOT What I asked Google About. I am Talking about While Watching A Video On UA-cam or Any Other Site and you get what looks like a Digital Compression Strip going Horizontal.. Specially while Scrolling Up/Down but even just as the Video plays.. Even If No Video. Google was doing it while I was Scrolling..
Hi.... God and informative video... But 180 degree shutter rule??? You could call it the 'times two' shutter rule... The 180 degree rule is a rule used to position the camera one one side of (180 degree) the scenes line of action... Lije in football or tennis. If you move the camera to the other side of the action line (goal to goal) your favorit team suddenly score a goal in their own end...
Haha yeah I agree the ”times two” rule would be a simpler, more intuitive name for it! But the “180 degree shutter rule” is the industry standard naming convention for it - here’s a good explanation: www.polarprofilters.com/blogs/polarpro/how-shutter-speed-affects-video
And yes there’s also that 180 degree rule as you explained as well. Just two different concepts with similar names.
@@JordanNelson Hi Jordan... No it's No 'industri standard' name for it. It's just youtubers misinterpretation of something they obviously know nothing about, multiplying factor n on YT and social media. Just because a few people can't tell an eagle from a sparrow and misuses ones name for the other, doesn't make the sparrow an eagle 😉🤪... No matter how many picks up the misunderstanding.... 😁🤠
@@JordanNelson some science behind it.. that may help you
Alternating Current or your AC,, is a big thing to take into account. Alternating current (anythign that plugs into the wall) i
America is 60hz, in the UK its 50hz,.
Battery powered lighting, which runs off Direct Current DC, doesnt alternate as its continuous direct light source. so this is why you wont get the bars when using certain lights you bring with you.
you want your hz of your camera to match the AC of whever light source you are using. you do this by changing the hz mode. from PAL TO NTSC or vice versa.
Camera HZ
PAL = 50hz
NTSC = 60hz
UK AC = 50hz
America AC = 60 hz
So if in america, try NTSC (60hz) with a shutter speed that multiples by 60, aswell as a the frame rate. eg, Shutter speed, 30/60/120 etc
if anywhere else like EUROPE or UK, Set to Pal (50hz) and also set shutter speed and frame rate to a multiple of 50. eg. 25/50/100 etc
@@uselesstv4787 Yes, you are right, and this video maker are totally wrong.
@MosquitoFilm hah 3 years later and i'd bet my life you still don't understand what you're talking about
Thanks.. had that with my DJI Inspire One X3 video cam. Thought the camera was at end of life. Much appreciated!
Thanks. I thought my camera is broken.
That's largely due to the AC electric frequency....for Europe the Electric power is at 50Hz while in US it's 60Hz. So, if you use 1/50 shutter speed in Europe (or any other PAL region) , and 1/60 in US (NTSC region) the banding disappears.
Pal what you when you need to shoot 120fps at wedding??? This isn't the solution for the problem.
Genius. Thank you mate!
Great thumbnail! Lol
Thanks dawg, haha!
I thought my cam was broken
0:14 😂
I have never noticed that 😂😂😂
1:05 well dude u just got a middle finger from the girl on the left 😝
she doesn't like the black banding