Indoor Rowing Technique | Proper Handle Position at the Catch
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- You can support my efforts to educate the rowing community (and enjoy some nice benefits) by becoming a Patron at
/ travisgardner
For more information about my coaching and consulting work, visit
Website: gtsrowing.com
Instagram: / gtsrowing
MOST VIEWED VIDEOS FROM MY CHANNEL:
○ Understanding Aerobic Capacity and How it Contributes to Competitive Performance - • UNDERSTANDING AEROBIC ...
○ A Basic OUTLINE for ROWING TRAINING in the Aerobic Base Building or General Conditioning Phase - • A Basic OUTLINE for RO...
○ The TRUTH about ZONE 2 HEART RATE training for ROWERS - • The TRUTH about ZONE 2...
○ Thoughts on Dynamic vs Static Ergs (Concept 2 Indoor Rower on Slides) - • Thoughts on Dynamic vs...
○ HOW TO USE DRAG FACTOR and Damper Setting Effectively on the Concept 2 Indoor Rower - • HOW TO USE DRAG FACTOR...
○ Footwear and Foot Placement on the Concept2 Indoor Rowing Machine | Rowing at 38 Vlog #17 - • Footwear and Foot Plac...
○ Zone 2 Heart Rate is NOT THE SAME as Oxygen Utilization 2 (UT2) Training - • Zone 2 Heart Rate is N...
○ Power Curve 101 for the Concept 2 Indoor Rower - • Power Curve 101 for th...
○ UNDERSTANDING UT1 STEADY STATE FOR ROWING and How to Execute a UT1 Training Session - • UNDERSTANDING UT1 STEA...
○ WORLD RECORD 100 METERS Concept2 Indoor Rowing Machine on Slides (30-39 Lightweight) - • Travis Gardner WORLD R...
○WORLD RECORD ONE MINUTE Concept2 Indoor Rowing Machine on Slides (30-39 Lightweight) - • Travis Gardner WORLD R...
ROWING RESOURCE (MY EDUCATION CHANNEL):
UA-cam: / @rowingresource
Instagram: / rowingresource
Facebook: / rowingresource
Twitter: / rowingresource
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS!
Periodization Training for Sports by Tudor Bompa - amzn.to/2XXQS37
Practical Programming for Strength Training by Mark Rippetoe - amzn.to/2XXQS37
The Carnivore Diet by Dr. Shawn Baker - amzn.to/3aZ64So
Running with Lydiard by Arthur Lydiard - amzn.to/2IPxfTu
Concept2 Indoor Rower - amzn.to/3aTHWQQ
Smartphone Holder for the Indoor Rower - amzn.to/3d2hA16
ARSE (CorePeform) Seat for the Indoor Rower - www.ps-sport.ne...
And make sure you subscribe to my channel!
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting this channel so that I can continue to produce free content!
Music credit - The Stork by Ketsa ketsa.uk/
I think your videos are very informative and helpful. There are loads out there, but I like the detailed explanations and examples you give. I watched your foot-plate and damper setting videos yesterday; after decades of this stuff I was questioning my settings and positioning, and you explained it wonderfully. I'm instigating those changes and will see how things pan out.
Couch i tray yor method ut2 training my god ur right i head best results and i hawe fun rowing thank you for your couching
Algo ciment
Great as far as it goes, but this misses the essential difference between indoor and outdoor rowing.
On an erg, there's no reason for your hands to descend below the cog-shoulder drive axis at any point in the stroke. On the water, that's for not catching crabs. Perhaps there's a small efficiency on the erg for letting your arms droop on the return (as if you are rowing on water), taking Frankenstein-monster grope tension out of the shoulder, but then you have a whole extra technique to master (this 'helium' business).
Also, I think this video should have illustrated how the rowing handle and the seat of the rower should move in absolute synchrony right from the first drop of power (there was even a mirror handy to demonstrate this).
This is hard to achieve if you don't get the inside of your shoulder set properly. I prefer the flaccid technique, where I let my shoulder joint extend out in front of my chest to where it hasn't got any further ability to extend once the power commences. Or you can brace your shoulder joint in a more natural position by tensing up shoulder muscles. In terms of physics, if your tensed shoulder doesn't move against the tension, no work is performed. They also say this about pushing on a cement wall. When a metal spring pushes on a cement wall, and the wall doesn't move, no physical work is performed, as advertised. But when a human arm pushes on the same wall, due to inefficiency in the human musculature system, there is a constant energy input required (does not create work against the wall, but does create heat within the muscle). I've long assumed that letting the tendons internal to the shoulder act as the shoulder brace is more physically efficient. It changes the arm pull slightly, since you arm pull now includes a couple of inches of what I presume is clavicle movement (which probably also contributes to pull length).
Long ago I rowed for a term with the UVic novice team at Elk Lake (also Canada's national training center). We got excellent training on the erg, but they never covered the shoulder joint in detail (not that I recall). But they covered pretty much everything else.
By far the most severe error was shooting your slide for 2 or 3 inches before the chain started to move. Unrecoverable. You've lost inches off the most powerful component of your entire stroke.
Next worst error was excessively compressing the knees at the catch, so that you have to start your drive with no significant leg power.
Third worst error was the wrong amount of layback from the hips at stroke completion. You get a longer stroke from laying way back, but then you waste a lot of energy doing a crunch with your core musculature to regain verticality.
Fourth worst error was excessive speed (especially with the seat) as you went back up the slide. On the erg I tend to use a quick return of the hands over the thigh, and a slow return of the seat. With a real oar, you'd be fighting momentum a bit to change speed to that degree in the middle of the return.
Because we were training for water rowing, they also fussed a lot about handle position at the chest, but this doesn't matter too much in a pure erg setting. For slow sets on the erg, I still use a low return path with my hands (and the quick downward motion at the release which initiates this). But for higher-paced power sets, I just use a pure linear hand position between cog and shoulder at all times to simplify matters.
(continued)
(continued)
When I'm really focused, I can achieve no chain bounce at all. As far as I'm concerned, every little bit of chain bounce reflects a technical error.
For the catch, I tend to use a perfectly vertical shin position as a good proxy.
What I actually don't know is how hard to lean over my knees. At 6'5"-with a long torso even for my height-if I lean somewhat hard over my legs I've only got about 4" of exposed chain remaining at the catch. This puts me slightly more compressed in the abdomen than I think prudent (or rounder in the back). I can actually overreach my catch all the way to the handle's rest position without my shins much past vertical (or my knees much past 90° which goes along with this).
A real coach would fix my hand position at the catch by a couple of inches forward or backward (and slap me around a bit over maintaining an optimal knee angle). I definitely tend to overreach when I'm pulling power strokes at a 1:30 pace. I think I achieve a more proper reach at paces slower than 1:45. But it's now been thirty years since I was last coached.
A funny thing is-once you become smooth enough-you can pull a 1:50 and people walking their chihuahuas on the treadmills think you're engaged in light exercise. Seven years ago I used to pull 1:25 for 20 s as part of a max power HIIT workout (with 1.5 minutes rest × 5 or 6, which left me about ready to keel over). Nobody ever mistook _that_ for light exercise, especially not with my already greying hair. I had to use quite a high drag factor or the chain was too ballistic to handle. Also, because I have spaghetti arms (no meatball), I was catapulting myself back up the slide in a horribly inefficient way to achieve this output. But the goal was quick exhaustion, not efficiency, and it seemed to work. At my peak, I could manage three strokes at 1:19 which is 700 W. Not bad for my early fifties, or so I told myself.
In my HIIT protocol, I was lifting right off my seat so regularly, I finally had to rig something to keep my seat under my butt. With my long torso and high shoulder joint, my feet were too close to the wheel (design flaw for oversized humans), causing my chain angle at the catch to be too steep, creating a lot of torque around my heels, rotating my butt up off my seat. If I was lucky, I landed on it again. If I was unlucky, I came down on the steel track, guaranteeing that my next stroke-after fumbling back up onto my seat-would not be another 1:25.
We had a few of those on the water, too, when someone crabbed off the start.
Now there's this new(ish) fad about zone 2 training. Bah, humbug. Don't think I can do much of that on a Concept 2. Boring. Maybe on a recumbent e-bike, over a 2.5 hour round-trip into town, with large portions at the Canadian e-bike assist limit of 32 kph. Then back to the erg to bust my nuts in zones 3-5.
By my rough fitness estimation, I'm presently good for about 150 W in zone 2 (on no training other than pickleball). According to a wonky bike calculator, another 150 W from the motor gets a body my size to 32 kph on level ground with no wind (heavy recumbent trike with 1.75" tires). Around 100% is a standard assist ratio in "tour" mode. A standard 400 W-hour battery would be somewhat marginal for that trip, especially as it de-rates over age.
Would be darn nice to be able to get my zone 2 in a wheeled hammock without the obnoxious butt burn I always got after a few hours on regular bike seat back in my touring years.
But is this worth dropping CDN $8k?
Mirror, mirror beside the erg,
Help me ponder if to splurge.
Holding the handle within the shoulder/cog vector once the draw begins would be awkward and biomechanically inefficient. This instructional video does not cover that phase of the drive. I have others that do.