Something I recently learned is that I can move my eyes! Back in high school I was taught to pick my one mark and that’s it. Only adjust your feet. Now with help from your videos, I know that eye movements are crucial to adjusting properly for different conditions.
I must say after watching this video I bowled in my state doubles tournament this past weekend and used my Parallax Effect on a long pattern and shot 930 for 4. My partner and I finished 3rd...Thanks for doing these vids!!!
In generall I agree about urethane on THS, but for higher skilled players, especially on the left side, it can absolutely work. I'm left handed and use urethane a lot on THS as it blends out the front to back WAY better than reactive. Throw in balls like the Purple Hammer and UC3 and it's completely viable.
My bad advice was to not bowl two-handed! I got a lot of hate from my dad, my teammates and now I'm the highest average on the team, have 2 300s to my credit, and a much better game overall. As always, thanks for the videos guys!
I like to throw the Fast Pitch on house shot for spares. Dump it down and the rotation dies quick. So the ball don't move to much really at all down lane.
I do agree if your intention on the first misconception is to "destroy" bowling as a secret formula, I mean, strong balls equals long oil patterns, and weaker balls equals short oil patterns. But, as a non native english speaker, I understood that the first idea is false, and you should think it the other way around, and that's also false; because as you said it in the end, there's lots of variables that may cause you to change the way you play; duller stronger balls on the long... and it will work, as it would work on a short as well. (Based on the shots you've shown, particularly on the long, a little surface adjustment, or a little movement with the feet would have worked as well, I think) In the end you should use whatever works to knock out the pins in the most effective way, and one day, the stronger duller ball will do the work on a "heavy long oil" pattern, as well on a "short light oil" pattern, and vice versa with the lighter weaker balls with less surface, because as I said, there's no secret formula and you need to be prepared for everything that'll do the work. In the end, the idea is that every ball has a reaction that would work on every condition that may be successful, and there is not a limit on where to use those reactions.
Excellent video as usual. Especially liked the urethane part. I bowl strictly on THS. The worst challenge is finding that the house hasn't oiled the lanes for our senior league. Still not sure what to do with burned up lanes. Tend to go with less reactive shiny balls like a Surge, Hustle RAP or the Electrify Hybrid. Did very well with the Venom Shock one week by moving way left and targeting way right.
For me, I polished the heck out of my Brunswick Rhino for dry lane conditions. Being an entry level ball, I've found that it doesn't overreact on dryer lanes and the polish helps it save energy for the flip. Of course, when it gets really dry, I just switch to a polyester spare ball. I don't usually encounter it that dry unless I've been burning up a pair for a 10 game practice session.
My coach told me to move right went the lanes were fried and when I did I completely missed the headpin. I went back to where I was playing and went dead flush
I agree with some of this i can use my PH pretty much all night during leauge. I can use urathane on just about anything pretty well and consistent all night long its all on how you move and adjust to the lanes.
When I started bowling league where I bowl I listed to a guy that said their house shot was only 30 ft long... So I went out and bought the pitch black, turns out it's 42 ft with light oil...
I was in the junior gold this year and my grandpa said if it's overlooking I should move right (I'm right handed) so I ended up going almost 200 under that day
Bowling coach for high school Told me (back in 2004 ish) that bowling with only 2 fingers is the wrong way to bowl. I wasn’t allowed to play unless I used 3 fingers. As a kid, I was devastated, but wanted to play. Ended up changing over to 3 fingers and continued that through high school into adult life. Looking back at it now, he was just an old guy who couldn’t coach someone bowling differently than the normal way.
Using thumb is more fun. Trust me. There’s lots more you can do when you use thumb. That’s the down side and disadvantage of using 2 finger and 2 handed bowling without thumb. Those 2 styles become boring after a while.
My worst advise I got was using shined up Pearl Halo on a short pattern. It was my own advise. This is by far the best informative video on how to play patterns and how urethane works. I was totally confused when I started to play on patterns and had to search for answers and experiment. It was a pain in the hoo hoo.
Great video, learning a lot. For the beatup house pattern, if urethane is not a good choice what would be a good ball to go to? How would a dull strong ball look and a shiny weak ball look on a beat-up house shot?
So what your gonna notice about beat up house shots is rlly early hook and not a ton of hook down lane, in my experience I’ve had to move left out of the early friction with something a little stronger and cleaner on the backend and slow it down to give it time to hook. But you aren’t gonna get as much miss room as you do on the fresh because of all the transition
More often than not the answer is a midrange resin balls and move in towards the middle of the lane. Dull strong ball would probably roll too early (like the boys saw on long), while the weaker ball with some shine might not be a bad option, particularly if you don't want to move your feet too far inside
One thing I was taught when I was younger from my dad. To curve my ball, rotate my wrist. Rotating wrist gives the curve. I found out more recently on my own bowling with friends (and from Kyle and brads UA-cam) is the curve happens more with fingers. And some with wrist. Like staying behind ball keeps it straighter. All I'm getting at is I was taught somewhat wrong from a young age and it took me 14 years to start bowling correctly and get my average up
My young teammate Zack, is a 2hander, throws the new Pink Hammer Widow Urethane for 1st game. THS at our house. Maybe can still use it 2nd game depending on the type of team we bowl that day. Then switches to his Fast Pitch Urethane for game 2/3! His avg has gone up, but hes more consistent overall. Which is helping our team win more, especially in the 10th frame! So I beg to differ. Urethane is just fine on THS! We shall see how he does this upcoming tournament next weekend though! :)
I would state there could be more then one misconception happening. For instance, on dragon one week my proton worked fine playing inside but the following week it just didn’t shape right. Could have been the breakdown of the lane but probably more to due to topography of the lane. Pull out a halo pearl at 2k and move out and the shape is back. Another is a ball that stops hooking. I’ll use dragon again. After practice and three balls into the game the reaction. Is gone. Ball stops hooking. Try all different balls and lines with uneven success. Team mate suggested lofting it and the reaction was back. Back in the pocket. Lack of carry kept the game under 200 but it was a clean game - no opens. That’s worth a point! This was an example where some people would bring out a ball with more teeth all it does is make the ball roll out sooner. Now, I ask myself carry down or are the heads going away.
With the urethane on a dry house shot the moves were so extreme between the two examples each bowler threw. There was definitely a much wider margin to the pocket then you guys tried to demonstrate. I get what you were going for and I did enjoy the video!
Love these videos, guys. Informative and entertaining - what more could a guy ask for? I'd really like to see a video or four showing you guys in competition. I'll cheer for you!
For me when I did play league decades ago it was in an after school league at my local bowling center. I only had one ball and shot around 175 average. The first year my team got third and the next year we got first. Even after I no longer was on the league I still used the same ball everywhere I went bowling and still kept around a 175 average. My ball was a really old rubber Brunswick Black Beauty 16 pound ball. My style would be very unusual for a lot of players to watch. I was like a golfer that has multiple clubs for a variety of shots. Which mean I had developed different styles of bowling that I copied from the professional bowlers that I watched. I had a version of pros that I would regularly use like Marshall Holman, Earl Anthony (right handed), Mark Roth, Walter Ray Williams Jr., Dick Weber, etc... each gave me what I needed to get the job done. For single pin spares I used a modified Marshal Holman straight ball shot to pick up the spares when a straight ball was needed. For oily lanes I would start off with Holman version because I could easily lower the loft and still hit my target. For the time when I needed more loft I went with Brian Voss version or any other mid range holding the ball around the waist level shot that I had. For the lanes that were dry and I need to control the break point Earl Anthony was what I used. If I just needed a down and end shot I used Dick Webet. Doing that is what allowed me to keep a consistent 175 average. Sure I had games over 200 and IIRC my highest was 279.
I watched this again because I struggle when I go into a center and it's not fresh like league or I don't know the pattern so this is key for when I practice on a Sat or Sun in the dead of summer like now or in the winter...and the pattern is a beat up house or sports shot...Thanks Boys! Hey also what is one to look for in the Hot Humid weather and Dry cold winter months, how does that effect how the lanes play in "General"
Last time I shot on the Broadway pattern every idiot in the house started with urethane 🤦🏼♂️. By game 4 or 5 you were hosed because 90% of them were terribly inconsistent and shredded the lanes.
Almost anything under 39 feet for me I need urethane or something with surface either works, but normal on fresh short its urantane then a ball with surface later on when carry down happens, and longer patterns its shiny stuff for the most part, and sometimes a ball with surface not often tho, I just started getting into sport shot stuff so I got alot of learning to do, but this video is very helpful
Video Idea: what corrections to make (or what went wrong) when you leave pins after hitting the pocket say you leave 10 pin, how do you change your shot to correct for that you leave certain splits, or the 5 pin, or 9 pin, or 7/10 split, etc. worst part of hitting the pocket (and not carrying) is not knowing why the pins didn't fall keep up the content!
If you consistently leave pocket 10 pins your either hitting to high or low on the pocket. You can add or decrease speed, move your feet up or back on the approach or target a board right or left. There are videos on adjustments like this out there.
The worst advice I have received is that I need to change my entire style to do well. I'm a left handed, no thumb bowler in my 50's. Well.... I think I have my good days and bad. But I carried a 179 average last league season. So I'm not changing a thing except to make more seven pin spares. Lol
im a little late, but i was a sub for a handicap league and a group of very "seasoned" bowlers i was against, one accidentally hit her hip with the ball, but suprisingly it went straight. so she told the other ladies in her team to hit their hips.... i was begging them to stop 😂🤦
I use urethane on Sport Patterns and Short Patterns, and I use my Solid on a house Shot, and weak shiny on dry lanes, and Strong Dull Balls On Higher Volumes, and use my asymmetrical shiny ball on Longer patterns. my Worst advice from my dad is throw the purple Hammer on a house shot.
I don't get why people even think that pin down would make it roll earlier. But I hear the misconception being corrected all the time. To me it's common sense that pin up will be earlier and more aggressive...
Hey Jungo I am getting a iq tour pink drill pin down 4/3.5/3.5 what sort of reaction will that give me. I’ve never had an iq and I have recently learnt it’s a remake of the iq tour fusion.
Good video. Kind of shows me what was going on with my Reality on a 42' THS. Still going to use it next league night. I am going to progress through my arsenal by using a ball for 2 weeks before switching.
The worst piece of advice I have received was from my coach in high school. He told me to move 5 left with my feet and 3 with my eyes. (We we’re bowling on house and it was drying up) (we were down by 19 pins and needed too strike out in the 10th to win) the previous ball was a light mixer and carried the 2-8. Then coach proceeds to tell me this correction. I listen and make the move and you would never believe what happened. Didn’t even touch the pocket. Left a washout. Not even close. So thanks to coach for making me look like a stud on the lanes 😎
Thank you for explaining the difference between pin-up and pin-down balls. Also, when it's wisest to use my urethane and reactive balls. For relatively new bowlers like me, who bowl on senior leagues twice a week, the information you provide in simple language is truly appreciated.
@@tylerwill5250 I have to admit, house shots were a real pain in the ass for me. Tried everything, then I started using a 1989 Brunswick Grizz urethane ball at 1000 grit down and in from the right the way they did it back then. Wow! Never scored better in my life. I continue to use just that one old pancake, zero dynamics ball in all house leagues.
Thanks for responding. Ive see. You around bowling videos on here. The biggest misconception that gets me is people telling me “oh, If you like urethane, just drill a weak low pin/short pin reactive and it will do the same.” Well ive spent 100’s and 100s of dollars trying to do just that. Closest ive got, and my favorite reactive ball i use on my HS is the remake of the brunswick phantom. It doesn’t work that way. Reactive and urethane will never have the same look or shape. They roll different. So i choose to ignore those who tell me so now(been bowling for 20 years).
My high school coach gave the best and worst advice at the same time..."just trust your ball." Yeah, ok coach, thanks. No 2 -1 move, no changing zones, no changing equipment, no changing hand position....got it.
Worst advise? More revs, plant your slide foot and "start a chainsaw" Actually the best/worst... never change your release. Never change timing. By keeping everything "perfect" all you have to do is adjust. Move marks, move feet, change balls. Repeat. Pounded into my head from 6years old. Now at 43 years old, 18.3mph like clockwork, but I CANT slow down. I can't speed up. Same release, same hook. 806 best and 1 300, one baker 300, and 217 average it's a blessing and a curse. Tourneys I struggle because when I need that change.... I just can't. I'm coming back to the sport after 5 years off because I destroyed my shoulder (let heavy stuff fall). Time for some new gear that covers ALL conditions (thinking 6 ball arsenal, leading with my Jackel LE) It's time to come back and wreck some people's day! Keep up the good work gentlemen, I wish you were closer, I'd come visit! If you're ever in southern MN, give me a shout!
Worst advise when I used to hook into all my spares about a year and a half ago. I missed a bucket hooking into it. And an adult bowler came up to me and said I need to bend the ball.
Same recommendations for a speed dominate player on the long oil? Also do you have trouble with orange and yellow reflections on those lanes in your target area? One center I started shooting at a lot has those almost same backdrops which cast orange and yellow reflections making picking out a particular board almost impossible at times. Targeting can be tricking. Any compensation tricks?
Speed dominant, you'll have to move your breakpoint closer to the head pin. Yea sometimes the reflection is annoying, maybe just move your target closer to you
“That ball is dead too many chips” brand new Fatal venom that got chipped from the ball return. It had many tiny chips and the PSO said I could get it polished but that getting it resurfaced to get rid of the chips would “kill” the ball.
One of the worst pieces of advice I got from my old coach is too try to bring the ball up at my backswing. This is terrible and makes bad habits. The backswing should always be natural. Many people just want their backswing to look cool but this is not what you should do to try to make it look cool. Bowling isn’t about to look cool. It’s about to do what’s natural and to develop a style for you. Now that doesn’t mean that you don’t fix your style. Because you have too in order to make a great style.
2:40 he said "when the truth is it hooks TOO early and runs out of energy." Maybe we should change our words? Maybe when it "hooks" is better described as when it "reads" the lane? Or I guess "begins" to read the lane as the implication is the ball is responding to the lane surface too much and wasting energy without changing direction.
I recently had a well-meaning guy tell me not to bend my elbow at all during my backswing (two hander). I almost pulled up a UA-cam clip of Belmo in slow motion, but decided to just let him have his little victory.
I bowl 2 handed and I took out the elbow bend in my back swing (for the most part) and I have a lot more power and consistency...I am also really tall with long arms... If you watch videos of Kyle Troupe or Jesper you'll see they don't bend their elbows much at all
@@bobwan420 You're not wrong! I try to keep it as straight as I can, but it ultimately comes down to flexibility for me. I have almost no backswing at all if I don't bend my right arm (kind of like Troup). When I do that, I end up muscling it a lot more to compensate. Too much elbow bend creates other inconsistencies, but a little isn't that bad IME.
@@Jackal_Blitz Def... Everyone is different...I don't think there's a "right" answer just whatever works for the individual bowler...I see some younger guys that have crazy elbow bend and they seem to lose so much speed that they constantly have to play really deep to match the revs...I was that way too... Since I took out the elbow bend I went from 190s to 220s and can play anywhere on the lane... It helped a lot with my sport shot league this summer too because my consistency was better because my arm swing was straighter without the elbow bend... Again though I am tall and have really long arms so it works well for me doesn't mean it would work for everyone
I'm a new two-hander, and I find my arm swing to be right in between the Troup/Jesper straight arm and the "traditional" Belmo elbow bend. I've tried bending my elbow more, and the extra motion of getting my elbow bent is causing some inconsistencies with my timing.
I use my bowling ball Brunswick igniter soild 14 pound bowling ball and my Brunswick rhino 14 pound bowling ball 2 bowling ball I like those bowling ball
I was told to aim for the 6 pin to pick up the 10 pin because I throw Storm balls "and Storm balls run big" as in they are bigger all the other ballS????
Pro at proshop here told me not to waste my time with the plastic ball I got from joining league and that it isn't worth drilling "seriously"...That "those free balls are just bookends". I used this ball as my main ball (was a 12lb as it was only one left in what I wanted so it was light) through entire league..using it as both my 1st throw and spare throw. I averaged a 171 with it by end of league(s) 2x 12 week leagues... and a 241 high game throwing in my very unorthodox style. When I was in the market for another ball, he still shot me down for having plastic and that the balls I was interested in were "not what I want" because I got used to throwing plastic and screwed myself up. He also said the balls I needed were the ones he had in stock... Having never seen me bowl or even ask me any questions..he somehow was able to tell me everything I was doing wasn't good enough. when I told him I had my rev rate etc., he said none of it matters bc I throw plastic. They also never measured my fingers when they drilled the ball and the holes actually cross into each other halfway into the ball. since it is was a viz-a-ball...it can't be plugged without ruining the surface from sanding. My new Black Widow Ghost and Purple Hammer (that I did NOT get from them) arrive Tuesday and will be taking them to a new shop. I also rolled a 246 with this ball recently (video is on my channel). I used to roll it with a single hole drilled but had them add another as I am going 2-handed this year (2022). The end lol.
As a two handed, worst advise from another bowler that has now become a running joke between friends when you’re not doing so hot is, “Put your thumb in it!” When we have no thumb hole.
Worst piece of advice I got was from some guy that drilled lots of my stuff when I was more of a beginner. I bowl two handed and he had this weird idea that you should never have to put your fingers further than the finger tips into the ball so that's how he fitted all my stuff. No wonder I couldn't average higher than 190. Got a few of my balls refitted so I almost go down to my second knuckle now and I average closer to 220 now
@@shernandez300 Yeah lots of pros like Kyle Troup and Chris Via just put their fingertips in, but other two handed bowlers like Jesper Svensson and Anthony Simonson go just about to their second knuckle like me. It's really just preference
a little better of an angle while watching the ball go down the lane... could be a little higher, but this is still better than what you use to have on your videos
So im not sure if its bad advise because I haven't thrown one yet but my pro shop has advised against me getting any asymmetrical balls because im a no thumb 1 handed bowler kind of like a tom daugherty style
As a two hander I throw symmetrical balls most often but I have a couple asymmetrical balls when the time calls for it, one has a short pin layout. Asymmetrical balls are good if you need the ball to stand up and roll more forward instead of continuing off the end of the pattern, just a different shape and it’s good to have both options.
If I bowl with two fingers, how do I get my ball drilled? Do I have to plug the thumb hole or move it so I can use it? In order to bowl in tournaments?
If you’re not using your thumb for gripping purposes, then the hole would have to be plugged. Your balls from now on should just have the finger holes drilled.
In your Proton Physix ball review, you said it would suit longer oil patterns, any reasons why it didn't perform for Simoo? What adjustments can be made?
That’s due to the amount of oil on the lane and the surface of the ball. If there isn’t as much oil on the lane then a dull ball is going to grab the lane too early and lose all its energy before it hits the pins. So it’s a fantastic ball with there is a little more oil, not necessarily meaning long or short. Idk if that helps
Can you explain the oil at Rev’s? I’m a casual bowler but I notice my ball hooks A LOT more and early at Rev’s compared to the other bowling alleys in BC
Hmmm, the worst advice. I'd have to say when I was a junior bowler, I was told to throw the bowl around 13 mph and stand on 35(keep in mind I'm a two handed so slow isnt good)
If you are on an unknown pattern and the ball you are using is not getting to the pocket, how can you tell if you should move to a stronger ball or weaker ball?
You need to throw it to the right and to the left of your initial shot and see what it does. Also try a ball with more length. If that ball hooks more downlane, then your previous ball was waisting energy too early.
Worst piece of advice I ever got was to avoid lofting. Lofting solves practically EVERYTHING if you do it right. Trouble is no one is really able to know how to actually loft.
The original coach for my college's bowling team, upon one of the students going through the face, told him to "Move right and take your hand out of it"
My misconception is that you have to make the ball hook by rotating my hand on top of the ball but all that’s done is hurt my hand and thumb in the long run but now I’m fighting to get rid of that bad habit
Lots of release drills focusing on getting the thumb out 1st. You can practice at home by getting on 1 knee and rolling the ball on the floor into pillows stacked against a wall.
What's about the purple hammer on the THS? It's early and has more back-end shape than other urethane balls. This video is money and teach me a lot, btw.
If you score well with urethane on THS in your house, use it! Im an outcast at my house because i do so. But reactive resin gets me no where near my scores throwing thane.
Hey guys great video!!! Don’t know if anyone has asked this but what about if a bowler only has symmetrical bowling balls like a Phase 2 and a Phase 3?? Do the same principles apply or do they revert back to the basic principles. Dull on the long and shiny on the short??? Love your videos keep up the great work!!!
Dull balls are actually better on the short, and shiny is better on long. Because the oil is more concentrated in short patterns, a dull ball, like a Phaze 2, will hook earlier and be smoother off the end of the oil pattern. On long pattern, the oil is more spread out, so you should use a ball that stores energy for longer. So your Phaze 3 will be better on those types in conditions
Something I recently learned is that I can move my eyes! Back in high school I was taught to pick my one mark and that’s it. Only adjust your feet. Now with help from your videos, I know that eye movements are crucial to adjusting properly for different conditions.
I must say after watching this video I bowled in my state doubles tournament this past weekend and used my Parallax Effect on a long pattern and shot 930 for 4. My partner and I finished 3rd...Thanks for doing these vids!!!
Guys, thank you so much for this! I’m going to put this on repeat in my shop!
I was always told as a kid, or in youth, “you only need 1 ball.”
Thats just about complete bogus lol, anyone and everyone needs atleast a couple or even a few + to perform above average 🤷🏻♂️👌🏼
I was told the same. I would always try to force the one ball I had and it usually never worked out lol. Better to have a few options.
It’s true
In generall I agree about urethane on THS, but for higher skilled players, especially on the left side, it can absolutely work. I'm left handed and use urethane a lot on THS as it blends out the front to back WAY better than reactive. Throw in balls like the Purple Hammer and UC3 and it's completely viable.
^^ THIS THIS THIS!!! ^^
My bad advice was to not bowl two-handed! I got a lot of hate from my dad, my teammates and now I'm the highest average on the team, have 2 300s to my credit, and a much better game overall. As always, thanks for the videos guys!
Ball too heavy for you?
@@oginaz sore loser? Scared of change? What is it because two handed is here to stay.
@@oginazlol I bowl with two fingers no thumb but one handed. Lol I could never understand how to throw a ball with the thumb lol.
I like to throw the Fast Pitch on house shot for spares. Dump it down and the rotation dies quick. So the ball don't move to much really at all down lane.
It would be great if you had a .pdf summarizing all the information. Then we could put it in our bags until we got smart. Great info as always.
I do agree if your intention on the first misconception is to "destroy" bowling as a secret formula, I mean, strong balls equals long oil patterns, and weaker balls equals short oil patterns. But, as a non native english speaker, I understood that the first idea is false, and you should think it the other way around, and that's also false; because as you said it in the end, there's lots of variables that may cause you to change the way you play; duller stronger balls on the long... and it will work, as it would work on a short as well. (Based on the shots you've shown, particularly on the long, a little surface adjustment, or a little movement with the feet would have worked as well, I think)
In the end you should use whatever works to knock out the pins in the most effective way, and one day, the stronger duller ball will do the work on a "heavy long oil" pattern, as well on a "short light oil" pattern, and vice versa with the lighter weaker balls with less surface, because as I said, there's no secret formula and you need to be prepared for everything that'll do the work.
In the end, the idea is that every ball has a reaction that would work on every condition that may be successful, and there is not a limit on where to use those reactions.
This has to be the best bowling video on you tube. We need more like this
Loving your videos !
You guys need to do more videos like this. There’s so much misinformation in bowling. This video was fantastic
Very useful for beginner bowlers looking to compete, thank you for sharing this!
Excellent video as usual. Especially liked the urethane part. I bowl strictly on THS. The worst challenge is finding that the house hasn't oiled the lanes for our senior league. Still not sure what to do with burned up lanes. Tend to go with less reactive shiny balls like a Surge, Hustle RAP or the Electrify Hybrid. Did very well with the Venom Shock one week by moving way left and targeting way right.
For me, I polished the heck out of my Brunswick Rhino for dry lane conditions. Being an entry level ball, I've found that it doesn't overreact on dryer lanes and the polish helps it save energy for the flip.
Of course, when it gets really dry, I just switch to a polyester spare ball. I don't usually encounter it that dry unless I've been burning up a pair for a 10 game practice session.
Thank you guys for all the tips in your videos. I love watching y'all and learning things even though I have bowled on a league for 14 years.
My coach told me to move right went the lanes were fried and when I did I completely missed the headpin. I went back to where I was playing and went dead flush
I agree with some of this i can use my PH pretty much all night during leauge. I can use urathane on just about anything pretty well and consistent all night long its all on how you move and adjust to the lanes.
When I started bowling league where I bowl I listed to a guy that said their house shot was only 30 ft long... So I went out and bought the pitch black, turns out it's 42 ft with light oil...
I was in the junior gold this year and my grandpa said if it's overlooking I should move right (I'm right handed) so I ended up going almost 200 under that day
you guys have helped me improve my game so much this pass year, I love the content. BTW what is that beat played in 9:31 that beat go HARD!!!!!!!
Thanks for the tips guys , really enjoy your vids all the way from here in New Zealand
Bowling coach for high school Told me (back in 2004 ish) that bowling with only 2 fingers is the wrong way to bowl. I wasn’t allowed to play unless I used 3 fingers. As a kid, I was devastated, but wanted to play. Ended up changing over to 3 fingers and continued that through high school into adult life.
Looking back at it now, he was just an old guy who couldn’t coach someone bowling differently than the normal way.
Using thumb is more fun. Trust me. There’s lots more you can do when you use thumb. That’s the down side and disadvantage of using 2 finger and 2 handed bowling without thumb. Those 2 styles become boring after a while.
My worst advise I got was using shined up Pearl Halo on a short pattern. It was my own advise. This is by far the best informative video on how to play patterns and how urethane works. I was totally confused when I started to play on patterns and had to search for answers and experiment. It was a pain in the hoo hoo.
I was told… not to have your follow through raise above the rings of the pins….lol😂😂😂😂
Great video, learning a lot. For the beatup house pattern, if urethane is not a good choice what would be a good ball to go to? How would a dull strong ball look and a shiny weak ball look on a beat-up house shot?
So what your gonna notice about beat up house shots is rlly early hook and not a ton of hook down lane, in my experience I’ve had to move left out of the early friction with something a little stronger and cleaner on the backend and slow it down to give it time to hook. But you aren’t gonna get as much miss room as you do on the fresh because of all the transition
More often than not the answer is a midrange resin balls and move in towards the middle of the lane. Dull strong ball would probably roll too early (like the boys saw on long), while the weaker ball with some shine might not be a bad option, particularly if you don't want to move your feet too far inside
So informative! You guys rock
One thing I was taught when I was younger from my dad. To curve my ball, rotate my wrist. Rotating wrist gives the curve. I found out more recently on my own bowling with friends (and from Kyle and brads UA-cam) is the curve happens more with fingers. And some with wrist. Like staying behind ball keeps it straighter. All I'm getting at is I was taught somewhat wrong from a young age and it took me 14 years to start bowling correctly and get my average up
well you turn the wrist when the balls flying off, your fingers cant carry the ball alone when playing inside
My young teammate Zack, is a 2hander, throws the new Pink Hammer Widow Urethane for 1st game. THS at our house.
Maybe can still use it 2nd game depending on the type of team we bowl that day. Then switches to his Fast Pitch Urethane for game 2/3!
His avg has gone up, but hes more consistent overall. Which is helping our team win more, especially in the 10th frame!
So I beg to differ. Urethane is just fine on THS!
We shall see how he does this upcoming tournament next weekend though! :)
I would state there could be more then one misconception happening. For instance, on dragon one week my proton worked fine playing inside but the following week it just didn’t shape right. Could have been the breakdown of the lane but probably more to due to topography of the lane. Pull out a halo pearl at 2k and move out and the shape is back. Another is a ball that stops hooking. I’ll use dragon again. After practice and three balls into the game the reaction. Is gone. Ball stops hooking. Try all different balls and lines with uneven success. Team mate suggested lofting it and the reaction was back. Back in the pocket. Lack of carry kept the game under 200 but it was a clean game - no opens. That’s worth a point! This was an example where some people would bring out a ball with more teeth all it does is make the ball roll out sooner. Now, I ask myself carry down or are the heads going away.
With the urethane on a dry house shot the moves were so extreme between the two examples each bowler threw. There was definitely a much wider margin to the pocket then you guys tried to demonstrate. I get what you were going for and I did enjoy the video!
The new purple hammer can be played on the right side of the lane but noticed they are only one directional... I would say focus on your entry angles
Love these videos, guys. Informative and entertaining - what more could a guy ask for?
I'd really like to see a video or four showing you guys in competition. I'll cheer for you!
My old coach said that where your thumb is pointed is where your ball goes... However I'm two handed thumbless
I have a rhino and black widow 2.0… when should I use each? First time having 2 balls… can’t seem to figure out when to grab which
For me when I did play league decades ago it was in an after school league at my local bowling center. I only had one ball and shot around 175 average. The first year my team got third and the next year we got first. Even after I no longer was on the league I still used the same ball everywhere I went bowling and still kept around a 175 average. My ball was a really old rubber Brunswick Black Beauty 16 pound ball.
My style would be very unusual for a lot of players to watch. I was like a golfer that has multiple clubs for a variety of shots. Which mean I had developed different styles of bowling that I copied from the professional bowlers that I watched. I had a version of pros that I would regularly use like Marshall Holman, Earl Anthony (right handed), Mark Roth, Walter Ray Williams Jr., Dick Weber, etc... each gave me what I needed to get the job done. For single pin spares I used a modified Marshal Holman straight ball shot to pick up the spares when a straight ball was needed.
For oily lanes I would start off with Holman version because I could easily lower the loft and still hit my target. For the time when I needed more loft I went with Brian Voss version or any other mid range holding the ball around the waist level shot that I had. For the lanes that were dry and I need to control the break point Earl Anthony was what I used. If I just needed a down and end shot I used Dick Webet. Doing that is what allowed me to keep a consistent 175 average. Sure I had games over 200 and IIRC my highest was 279.
I watched this again because I struggle when I go into a center and it's not fresh like league or I don't know the pattern so this is key for when I practice on a Sat or Sun in the dead of summer like now or in the winter...and the pattern is a beat up house or sports shot...Thanks Boys! Hey also what is one to look for in the Hot Humid weather and Dry cold winter months, how does that effect how the lanes play in "General"
Last time I shot on the Broadway pattern every idiot in the house started with urethane 🤦🏼♂️. By game 4 or 5 you were hosed because 90% of them were terribly inconsistent and shredded the lanes.
Good job on the video, very high quality and good explanations.
Almost anything under 39 feet for me I need urethane or something with surface either works, but normal on fresh short its urantane then a ball with surface later on when carry down happens, and longer patterns its shiny stuff for the most part, and sometimes a ball with surface not often tho, I just started getting into sport shot stuff so I got alot of learning to do, but this video is very helpful
Video Idea:
what corrections to make (or what went wrong) when you leave pins after hitting the pocket
say you leave 10 pin, how do you change your shot to correct for that
you leave certain splits, or the 5 pin, or 9 pin, or 7/10 split, etc.
worst part of hitting the pocket (and not carrying) is not knowing why the pins didn't fall
keep up the content!
If you consistently leave pocket 10 pins your either hitting to high or low on the pocket. You can add or decrease speed, move your feet up or back on the approach or target a board right or left. There are videos on adjustments like this out there.
@@davidchamberlain5146 Quite possibly lots of videos out there, but seeing this channel do it would be great :)
The worst advice I have received is that I need to change my entire style to do well. I'm a left handed, no thumb bowler in my 50's.
Well.... I think I have my good days and bad. But I carried a 179 average last league season. So I'm not changing a thing except to make more seven pin spares. Lol
7 pin 😩😩 I'm a lefty and it's either I'm hitting them all day or missing them all day..
Also using a layout thats is 35x4x60 is not recommended when you have low rev rate…lol
im a little late, but i was a sub for a handicap league and a group of very "seasoned" bowlers i was against, one accidentally hit her hip with the ball, but suprisingly it went straight. so she told the other ladies in her team to hit their hips.... i was begging them to stop 😂🤦
I would love to see you guys travel and do a tour around the country of the world talking about bowling balls and giving coaching lessons
So you guys ever going to do that and come to lake Minnesota
I use urethane on Sport Patterns and Short Patterns, and I use my Solid on a house Shot, and weak shiny on dry lanes, and Strong Dull Balls On Higher Volumes, and use my asymmetrical shiny ball on Longer patterns. my Worst advice from my dad is throw the purple Hammer on a house shot.
I don't get why people even think that pin down would make it roll earlier. But I hear the misconception being corrected all the time. To me it's common sense that pin up will be earlier and more aggressive...
Very informative. Thanks
Get video guys, very informative for everyone!
Hey Jungo I am getting a iq tour pink drill pin down 4/3.5/3.5 what sort of reaction will that give me. I’ve never had an iq and I have recently learnt it’s a remake of the iq tour fusion.
Good video. Kind of shows me what was going on with my Reality on a 42' THS. Still going to use it next league night. I am going to progress through my arsenal by using a ball for 2 weeks before switching.
Nice, that Purple Hammer is SICK WITH IT BTW! ;) OH and Once again SPOT ON!!! Great Vid!
The worst piece of advice I have received was from my coach in high school. He told me to move 5 left with my feet and 3 with my eyes. (We we’re bowling on house and it was drying up) (we were down by 19 pins and needed too strike out in the 10th to win) the previous ball was a light mixer and carried the 2-8. Then coach proceeds to tell me this correction. I listen and make the move and you would never believe what happened. Didn’t even touch the pocket. Left a washout. Not even close. So thanks to coach for making me look like a stud on the lanes 😎
go 2 left with feet and 1 left with eyes
Thank you for explaining the difference between pin-up and pin-down balls. Also, when it's wisest to use my urethane and reactive balls. For relatively new bowlers like me, who bowl on senior leagues twice a week, the information you provide in simple language is truly appreciated.
Great vid guys!!!
One of your best videos ever!
Liked the part about why urethane does not work well on house shots.
A 279 and several 700’s last year with urethane in my house shot. Never ever get close to those numbers with reactive.
@@tylerwill5250 I have to admit, house shots were a real pain in the ass for me. Tried everything, then I started using a 1989 Brunswick Grizz urethane ball at 1000 grit down and in from the right the way they did it back then. Wow! Never scored better in my life. I continue to use just that one old pancake, zero dynamics ball in all house leagues.
Thanks for responding. Ive see. You around bowling videos on here.
The biggest misconception that gets me is people telling me “oh,
If you like urethane, just drill a weak low pin/short pin reactive and it will do the same.” Well ive spent 100’s and 100s of dollars trying to do just that. Closest ive got, and my favorite reactive ball i use on my HS is the remake of the brunswick phantom. It doesn’t work that way. Reactive and urethane will never have the same look or shape. They roll different. So i choose to ignore those who tell me so now(been bowling for 20 years).
Oh and i love old
Pancake urethanes. They hit extremely hard for me! Hard to find them though! @nordattack
My high school coach gave the best and worst advice at the same time..."just trust your ball." Yeah, ok coach, thanks. No 2 -1 move, no changing zones, no changing equipment, no changing hand position....got it.
Worst advise? More revs, plant your slide foot and "start a chainsaw"
Actually the best/worst... never change your release. Never change timing. By keeping everything "perfect" all you have to do is adjust. Move marks, move feet, change balls. Repeat. Pounded into my head from 6years old. Now at 43 years old, 18.3mph like clockwork, but I CANT slow down. I can't speed up. Same release, same hook.
806 best and 1 300, one baker 300, and 217 average it's a blessing and a curse. Tourneys I struggle because when I need that change.... I just can't.
I'm coming back to the sport after 5 years off because I destroyed my shoulder (let heavy stuff fall). Time for some new gear that covers ALL conditions (thinking 6 ball arsenal, leading with my Jackel LE)
It's time to come back and wreck some people's day!
Keep up the good work gentlemen, I wish you were closer, I'd come visit! If you're ever in southern MN, give me a shout!
Worst advise when I used to hook into all my spares about a year and a half ago. I missed a bucket hooking into it. And an adult bowler came up to me and said I need to bend the ball.
Same recommendations for a speed dominate player on the long oil?
Also do you have trouble with orange and yellow reflections on those lanes in your target area? One center I started shooting at a lot has those almost same backdrops which cast orange and yellow reflections making picking out a particular board almost impossible at times. Targeting can be tricking. Any compensation tricks?
Speed dominant, you'll have to move your breakpoint closer to the head pin. Yea sometimes the reflection is annoying, maybe just move your target closer to you
“That ball is dead too many chips” brand new Fatal venom that got chipped from the ball return. It had many tiny chips and the PSO said I could get it polished but that getting it resurfaced to get rid of the chips would “kill” the ball.
One of the worst pieces of advice I got from my old coach is too try to bring the ball up at my backswing. This is terrible and makes bad habits. The backswing should always be natural. Many people just want their backswing to look cool but this is not what you should do to try to make it look cool. Bowling isn’t about to look cool. It’s about to do what’s natural and to develop a style for you. Now that doesn’t mean that you don’t fix your style. Because you have too in order to make a great style.
2:40 he said "when the truth is it hooks TOO early and runs out of energy."
Maybe we should change our words? Maybe when it "hooks" is better described as when it "reads" the lane? Or I guess "begins" to read the lane as the implication is the ball is responding to the lane surface too much and wasting energy without changing direction.
Can you go over ball drilling and where the pin is that changes the way the ball rolls.
I want to see the Hammer Infamous review and the Obsession Pearl compaired
I have a Halo Pearl, does that overlap with the Parallax Effect?
Yea it might be pretty close, parallax might hook a little earlier
Will you guys review the Zen Master?
Awesome vid …. I was told to turn my hand at the end of the throw …. And grab the head pin
What would happen if you put surface on a pearl coverstock? will it over-hook or will it be fine?
It will be fine. It will hook earlier and more
The worst thing I was told when I was young was there is only one way to bowl and I needed to learn how to lower my Rev rate to get better at bowling
I recently had a well-meaning guy tell me not to bend my elbow at all during my backswing (two hander).
I almost pulled up a UA-cam clip of Belmo in slow motion, but decided to just let him have his little victory.
I bowl 2 handed and I took out the elbow bend in my back swing (for the most part) and I have a lot more power and consistency...I am also really tall with long arms... If you watch videos of Kyle Troupe or Jesper you'll see they don't bend their elbows much at all
@@bobwan420 You're not wrong! I try to keep it as straight as I can, but it ultimately comes down to flexibility for me. I have almost no backswing at all if I don't bend my right arm (kind of like Troup). When I do that, I end up muscling it a lot more to compensate.
Too much elbow bend creates other inconsistencies, but a little isn't that bad IME.
@@Jackal_Blitz Def... Everyone is different...I don't think there's a "right" answer just whatever works for the individual bowler...I see some younger guys that have crazy elbow bend and they seem to lose so much speed that they constantly have to play really deep to match the revs...I was that way too... Since I took out the elbow bend I went from 190s to 220s and can play anywhere on the lane... It helped a lot with my sport shot league this summer too because my consistency was better because my arm swing was straighter without the elbow bend... Again though I am tall and have really long arms so it works well for me doesn't mean it would work for everyone
I'm a new two-hander, and I find my arm swing to be right in between the Troup/Jesper straight arm and the "traditional" Belmo elbow bend. I've tried bending my elbow more, and the extra motion of getting my elbow bent is causing some inconsistencies with my timing.
Can you hook a bowling ball with a conventional grip as well as a fingertip grip?
Yes, just not as easily with conventional
I was told as a two handed that pin downs work they do not I can’t get it to corner properly without it not responding
No thumb? Doesn't really have the same meaning without a thumb hole. What are the dual angles ?
I’m not sure the layout was under my ring finger the ball didn’t snap off backend it was so lazy
The worst advice I ever got was putting mustard in my bowling ball holes
Biggest misconception 2 hands hits harder than 1 hand. It all comes down to your release at the line.
No, 2 hands do. With the amount of revs and speed they can generate.
@@aidenjaxlol you can generate the same with 1 hand.
What would you say is the (on average) best type/coverstock of ball for house shots?
Solid cover stocks
@@jrproshop Ok 👍🏼. Thanks for the response.
I use my bowling ball Brunswick igniter soild 14 pound bowling ball and my Brunswick rhino 14 pound bowling ball 2 bowling ball I like those bowling ball
I was told to aim for the 6 pin to pick up the 10 pin because I throw Storm balls "and Storm balls run big" as in they are bigger all the other ballS????
Pro at proshop here told me not to waste my time with the plastic ball I got from joining league and that it isn't worth drilling "seriously"...That "those free balls are just bookends". I used this ball as my main ball (was a 12lb as it was only one left in what I wanted so it was light) through entire league..using it as both my 1st throw and spare throw. I averaged a 171 with it by end of league(s) 2x 12 week leagues... and a 241 high game throwing in my very unorthodox style. When I was in the market for another ball, he still shot me down for having plastic and that the balls I was interested in were "not what I want" because I got used to throwing plastic and screwed myself up. He also said the balls I needed were the ones he had in stock... Having never seen me bowl or even ask me any questions..he somehow was able to tell me everything I was doing wasn't good enough. when I told him I had my rev rate etc., he said none of it matters bc I throw plastic. They also never measured my fingers when they drilled the ball and the holes actually cross into each other halfway into the ball. since it is was a viz-a-ball...it can't be plugged without ruining the surface from sanding. My new Black Widow Ghost and Purple Hammer (that I did NOT get from them) arrive Tuesday and will be taking them to a new shop. I also rolled a 246 with this ball recently (video is on my channel). I used to roll it with a single hole drilled but had them add another as I am going 2-handed this year (2022). The end lol.
The miss concept I got was open up my angles and fallen out my hand from playing on 20
As a two handed, worst advise from another bowler that has now become a running joke between friends when you’re not doing so hot is, “Put your thumb in it!” When we have no thumb hole.
Thanks, good stuff
OK Guys rookie question. What constitutes a long or short pattern? Is there a minimum and/or maximum measurement involved? Thanks
Yea general rule would be 37’ and less is short. 38-42 is medium. And 43+ is Long
Worst piece of advice I got was from some guy that drilled lots of my stuff when I was more of a beginner. I bowl two handed and he had this weird idea that you should never have to put your fingers further than the finger tips into the ball so that's how he fitted all my stuff. No wonder I couldn't average higher than 190. Got a few of my balls refitted so I almost go down to my second knuckle now and I average closer to 220 now
don’t most people go to their first knuckle with grips in the ball? that’s what i do as a two hander
@@shernandez300 Yeah lots of pros like Kyle Troup and Chris Via just put their fingertips in, but other two handed bowlers like Jesper Svensson and Anthony Simonson go just about to their second knuckle like me. It's really just preference
a little better of an angle while watching the ball go down the lane... could be a little higher, but this is still better than what you use to have on your videos
So im not sure if its bad advise because I haven't thrown one yet but my pro shop has advised against me getting any asymmetrical balls because im a no thumb 1 handed bowler kind of like a tom daugherty style
As a two hander I throw symmetrical balls most often but I have a couple asymmetrical balls when the time calls for it, one has a short pin layout. Asymmetrical balls are good if you need the ball to stand up and roll more forward instead of continuing off the end of the pattern, just a different shape and it’s good to have both options.
Does pin to cg distance matter?
Nope
If I bowl with two fingers, how do I get my ball drilled?
Do I have to plug the thumb hole or move it so I can use it? In order to bowl in tournaments?
If you’re not using your thumb for gripping purposes, then the hole would have to be plugged. Your balls from now on should just have the finger holes drilled.
In your Proton Physix ball review, you said it would suit longer oil patterns, any reasons why it didn't perform for Simoo? What adjustments can be made?
That’s due to the amount of oil on the lane and the surface of the ball. If there isn’t as much oil on the lane then a dull ball is going to grab the lane too early and lose all its energy before it hits the pins. So it’s a fantastic ball with there is a little more oil, not necessarily meaning long or short. Idk if that helps
Guys for someone who throws like Simoo who is almost a full roller, how would you pitch his fingers to lower his track?
Can you explain the oil at Rev’s? I’m a casual bowler but I notice my ball hooks A LOT more and early at Rev’s compared to the other bowling alleys in BC
Less oil and a much different lane surface at Revs. It’s much closer to what wood lanes would be like
Hmmm, the worst advice. I'd have to say when I was a junior bowler, I was told to throw the bowl around 13 mph and stand on 35(keep in mind I'm a two handed so slow isnt good)
Is a rubicon ok for a house shot im a low rev stroker?
The Rubicon is a great ball!
If you are on an unknown pattern and the ball you are using is not getting to the pocket, how can you tell if you should move to a stronger ball or weaker ball?
You need to throw it to the right and to the left of your initial shot and see what it does. Also try a ball with more length. If that ball hooks more downlane, then your previous ball was waisting energy too early.
The first shiny bowlers were forcing the ball too, not letting the ball do the job.
Worst advice was someone said why do you throw rotogrip? Storm owns them and is just better. Here he's with a 170 avg and I'm 210
Worst piece of advice I ever got was to avoid lofting. Lofting solves practically EVERYTHING if you do it right. Trouble is no one is really able to know how to actually loft.
The original coach for my college's bowling team, upon one of the students going through the face, told him to "Move right and take your hand out of it"
My misconception is that you have to make the ball hook by rotating my hand on top of the ball but all that’s done is hurt my hand and thumb in the long run but now I’m fighting to get rid of that bad habit
Lots of release drills focusing on getting the thumb out 1st. You can practice at home by getting on 1 knee and rolling the ball on the floor into pillows stacked against a wall.
What's about the purple hammer on the THS? It's early and has more back-end shape than other urethane balls. This video is money and teach me a lot, btw.
If you score well with urethane on THS in your house, use it! Im an outcast at my house because i do so. But reactive resin gets me no where near my scores throwing thane.
Using the 3-6-9 method to pick up the 10 pin.
Hey guys great video!!! Don’t know if anyone has asked this but what about if a bowler only has symmetrical bowling balls like a Phase 2 and a Phase 3?? Do the same principles apply or do they revert back to the basic principles. Dull on the long and shiny on the short??? Love your videos keep up the great work!!!
Dull balls are actually better on the short, and shiny is better on long. Because the oil is more concentrated in short patterns, a dull ball, like a Phaze 2, will hook earlier and be smoother off the end of the oil pattern. On long pattern, the oil is more spread out, so you should use a ball that stores energy for longer. So your Phaze 3 will be better on those types in conditions