Everytime I watch your videos, first I decide to buy an airbrush. Then your little moves with airbrush come in, and I say no I can't do that :D So I am still using brush and spray. One day I will have the courage.
Love your work, love your videos.....great job, James....amazing paint job and some really great tips throughout....thanks again for showing your work.
So it's 2:30 am on Sunday morning and I'm tired after a busy day. Just about to close down my PC and retire for the night when I notice an LPJ Models video I have not yet watched. Time to pour another whiskey and settle back down for an entertaining 18 minute treat! Cheers James.
Loving this series! Watching this and building my Academy 1/32nd Sopwith Camel. Not a nice kit, needs so,e love and detailing but represents the look of a camel so it’s not all bad! Looking forward to the next vid!
@@lpjmodels I’ve accepted that the cockpit is wrong but the external does a far impression of the shape and look of the camel so am working through it. Currently I’m painting the cockpit interior, base coated sand colour and going to do the oils trick. Can post pics on discord if your interested?
The Bf-109 is my favorite WWII aircraft. I know it's not very original, but it definitely has something other aircrafts don't. You are doing an amazing job and I have been following you for some time on your UA-cam channel. The good news now is that you have one more Patron !!! I really want to encourage you because you are by far one of the most inspiring and accessible modelers.
Another tip for "black basing" yellow is by using a pink base coat and then putting down a yellow marble coat with the yellow blend coat on top. Not sure what it is about the pink but it keeps the Yellow from desaturating whilst letting you play with the opacity. Gives a really good "beaten up" yellow effect.
Interesting video, thanks. Chipping the prop blades; keep in mind chipping will be far less on the blade face ( a high pressure area) than on the rear of the blade.
You literally make the best vids, hombre 🙌 All elements of your craft and production are top quality. 😯👌 And you are most certainly living on the edge... ✌😎 Can you do a workshop tour vid for us, please??? 🙏🙏🙏 I am wondering if you use that snazzy lamp you did a vid on? 🤔 Cheers bruva!
Thanks Mate, very kind ! I did a workbench tour a little while back and not much has changed. I'm finding the lamp to be a good supplement to my other one, it sits to the side ( eating up a lot of space) while the other is desk mounted. I think without both of em my vids would be too dark. 😀
So far so good! 😀 The shade of green is indeed unusual... Not impossible, since this color was used by the Germans in earlier camos and then mostly for export airplanes, but quite uncommon at that time. However the RAL6003 (RLM 62) was later used by the ground troops as a complementary color over dunkelgelb (from 1943 onwards)... And, according to the latest theories, under another designation, again by the Luftwaffe in the last years of the war. I'll stay tuned for the next episode. 🙂
Thanks mate, the green was supposed to be rlm 80, but mission models have 2 rlm 80's a field grey and an olive green, I needed a olive ish green so went for 6003 but it could have been a bit darker to be 100% accurate.
Nice tight camo there James, although it really looked like you were struggling with the MM paints. To be honest I've only ever heard how difficult they are to use and most people just seem to bin them. Nevertheless, you've turned out a really great-looking 109 so far. Cheers!
Thanks Scott! like all water based acrylics there is a trade off. They have a learning curve, and can be temperamental, for acrylics I prefer them the vallejo model air because I can get them down relatively smoothly, much prefer laquers these day but I am penny pinching and used what I had 😁 Thanks for the kind words mate
@@lpjmodels Yes, acrylics can be temperamental for sure. I’m pretty much using acrylic lacquers or Tamiya mixed with MLT for spraying these days… you just can’t beat it for a flawless smooth finish.
Black basing.....you need to be really good at airbrushing! I tend to post shade and mix it up with a splatter template. But your job exceeds anything I can do!
It looks really good. My Iwata airbrush doesn't have a stop for the paint lever. Yours looks like it does. I have made a stop for it now and when wanting to detail spray like you were with the green I set the stop so I don't blob any paint on but if the airbrush stops spraying rather than disturb the setting to fully open the needle I spray a little carb cleaner from its aerosol on the tip of the nozzle while the airbrush needle open to spray It clears any blockage. Obviously this is done away from the model and let the airbrush clear any carb cleaner, you don't want that on the model. I also find carb cleaner a good and cheap way of initially cleaning an airbrush. Finish off with some proper airbrush cleaner.
Thanks Allan, you're right the h&s has a needle limiter but it's rarely used on my end. I used to use them all the time but they ended up getting in the way. I think you can buy custom parts for iwatas with a needle stop for the models that don't have them ( I remember seeing them some years ago in a magazine)
Not that I'm aware of, most acrylics have this already in the ingredients list. MM gives you the option. If you want a bit of a sheen pop in a little gloss varnish with your paint mix.
The poly is an additive that makes Mission Models stronger and gives it a slight sheen. For example when not using the poly with MM, if you agitate it with water it can start to break down. With the poly this stops thay from happening. It also works as a retarder.
What techniques did you use to reduce the impacts of tip drying when spraying the MMP paints? I can’t seem to good results with it at such low pressure in my H&S airbrush. Watching you get such great success with it is rather humbling.
I use about 15 psi and above a lot of the time, where are you based, humidity and atmosphere can affect any paint and how it lays down. This is one of the reasons the "I never had a problem " comments you get aren't very valid. Someone in the uk will have different luck than someone in India. Let's troubleshoot a little bit and see if we can get somewhere. Are you using the poly mixative? This is one thing that helps a lot if the poly hasn't gone bad. Have you tried different thinner? I have been using vms airbrush thinner with great success, it is slightly self levelling so must affect the drying time a bit. Is your nozzle clean? Sometimes leftover dried acrylic deep in the working of the AB can really speed up tip drying by blocking a minor section and causing a backup e.t.c. I thin them a little more than you're supposed to as well. I have moved more towards laquers or the "hybrids" like AK real colour for ease of spraying at the trade off for the smell as they are more durable, and definately more consistent but laquers aren't for everybody. I hope this helps at least a little !
@@lpjmodels I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. I definitely use the poly, and have a shining clean AB. I strip it down and look into the nozzle with a glass and bright light to make sure it’s always clean. I haven’t tried the VMS thinner, but certainly have some and will give it a go on one of my paint mules. I have been using Mr Color, Tamiya and AK RC on everything and am pretty spoiled by the ease of use and bulletproof durability. I do still use Stynlrez as a primer sometimes. It would be nice to use up all that MMP paint I have in the basement. I bought a bunch and had such mixed results, I gave up.I do like the look of some of the colors. Thanks again!
Hi James, Yesterday during the premiere I was asking about paints and put MRP instead if Mission Models. This is what happens when trying to watch the video on the TV and comment on the laptop at the same time. What I meant was that Mission Model paints seem to difficult to get hold of in the UK. I know of a few suppliers but they don't have all paints meaning having to order from more than one, meaning two lots of postage, i'm getting mean lol. Where do you get them from? Great video as always. Can't believe the quality you get just using your phone. All the best, Mark
Hi Mark, I get ya , I use scale model shop pretty much exclusively, although I haven't needed to buy any MM for months. I'm not sure what their stock levels are like . I'm getting a pc soon so hopefully things will get get better. Pc first, then I'm saving for a camera. I'm eager to up the quality even more and hopefully provide more professional and refined content ! Thanks for the support mate 😀
I used to have this problem and I'm not sure what caused it. Do you degrease the surface with alcohol before spraying? I have started giving my models a wipe with 99% ipa first
Blown away by your airbrush skills. You are the airbrush master...
Thanks Sera ! 😊
Everytime I watch your videos, first I decide to buy an airbrush. Then your little moves with airbrush come in, and I say no I can't do that :D So I am still using brush and spray. One day I will have the courage.
Once you get used to it it's a breeze, I'm dead sure you'll be fine 😁
Truly one of the best model paintjobs i have seen.
Thanks Jan !
Love your work, love your videos.....great job, James....amazing paint job and some really great tips throughout....thanks again for showing your work.
Thanks Robbo, you're welcome, I'm glad your still sticking around !
Always!!
So it's 2:30 am on Sunday morning and I'm tired after a busy day. Just about to close down my PC and retire for the night when I notice an LPJ Models video I have not yet watched. Time to pour another whiskey and settle back down for an entertaining 18 minute treat! Cheers James.
Ferbie, that comment made me smile, I'm glad you enjoy the videos my freind !
Thanks for the canopy advice. A really nice build.
Thanks Wade !
Beautiful result! Great airbrushing skill with that camo too - very impressive. Looking forward the final part!
Thanks my freind :)
Hi James, that was a outstanding paint finish on the 109, your skill is flawless, always a pleasure to watch, take care and keep safe.
Thanks Les much appreciated! Hope alls well on your end
Loving this series! Watching this and building my Academy 1/32nd Sopwith Camel. Not a nice kit, needs so,e love and detailing but represents the look of a camel so it’s not all bad! Looking forward to the next vid!
For a while that academy camel was the best game in town, where are you with the build so far?
@@lpjmodels I’ve accepted that the cockpit is wrong but the external does a far impression of the shape and look of the camel so am working through it. Currently I’m painting the cockpit interior, base coated sand colour and going to do the oils trick. Can post pics on discord if your interested?
The Bf-109 is my favorite WWII aircraft. I know it's not very original, but it definitely has something other aircrafts don't. You are doing an amazing job and I have been following you for some time on your UA-cam channel. The good news now is that you have one more Patron !!! I really want to encourage you because you are by far one of the most inspiring and accessible modelers.
Thankyou Alain, the 109 is a guilty pleasure of mine 😀
I've been
looking forward to this part!!
Beautiful work!!!
Thankyou my Man 💪
Another fantastic build!!! Great job!!!!
Thanks mate !
Lovely paint job, James 😊👍
Another tip for "black basing" yellow is by using a pink base coat and then putting down a yellow marble coat with the yellow blend coat on top. Not sure what it is about the pink but it keeps the Yellow from desaturating whilst letting you play with the opacity. Gives a really good "beaten up" yellow effect.
That's really useful, got to try it thanks Ekmad!
Indeed! It has to do with the value of colours and due to the fact pink is complimentary to a prime colour like yellow!
@@chrtsi6912 not far off, purple is the complimentary to true yellow.
Incredible work brother! loving your videos
Thanks mate !
Nice painting and looks great.
As always mate a truly jaw dropping paint job,. Can't wait to see the finished work 👍😉😊stay safe guys👍
Thanks Dave ! Much appreciated, you stay safe too 🙏
Terrific work and great narration!!
Thanks Scale Model Maker !
Interesting video, thanks. Chipping the prop blades; keep in mind chipping will be far less on the blade face ( a high pressure area) than on the rear of the blade.
Thanks Rod ! That's a good tip
Another great video!!!! Beautiful airbrush work!
Thanks PP ! 😊
Very skilled airbrush work. Lovely to watch it coming together.
*Mission models paints give such a good result ... nicely done LPJ!*
Fair doo's, that looks gorgeous 😍
Nice job I love you work I just got my new phone to watch you work
Thankyou John much appreciated!
Excellent
You literally make the best vids, hombre 🙌
All elements of your craft and production are top quality. 😯👌
And you are most certainly living on the edge... ✌😎
Can you do a workshop tour vid for us, please??? 🙏🙏🙏
I am wondering if you use that snazzy lamp you did a vid on? 🤔
Cheers bruva!
Thanks Mate, very kind !
I did a workbench tour a little while back and not much has changed. I'm finding the lamp to be a good supplement to my other one, it sits to the side ( eating up a lot of space) while the other is desk mounted.
I think without both of em my vids would be too dark. 😀
On my recent eduard kit the canopy masks are amazing and such a timesaver
They help a tonne that's for sure
So far so good! 😀
The shade of green is indeed unusual... Not impossible, since this color was used by the Germans in earlier camos and then mostly for export airplanes, but quite uncommon at that time.
However the RAL6003 (RLM 62) was later used by the ground troops as a complementary color over dunkelgelb (from 1943 onwards)...
And, according to the latest theories, under another designation, again by the Luftwaffe in the last years of the war.
I'll stay tuned for the next episode. 🙂
Thanks mate, the green was supposed to be rlm 80, but mission models have 2 rlm 80's a field grey and an olive green, I needed a olive ish green so went for 6003 but it could have been a bit darker to be 100% accurate.
That looks amazing. Cant wait broseph
Nice tight camo there James, although it really looked like you were struggling with the MM paints. To be honest I've only ever heard how difficult they are to use and most people just seem to bin them. Nevertheless, you've turned out a really great-looking 109 so far. Cheers!
Thanks Scott! like all water based acrylics there is a trade off. They have a learning curve, and can be temperamental, for acrylics I prefer them the vallejo model air because I can get them down relatively smoothly, much prefer laquers these day but I am penny pinching and used what I had 😁
Thanks for the kind words mate
@@lpjmodels Yes, acrylics can be temperamental for sure. I’m pretty much using acrylic lacquers or Tamiya mixed with MLT for spraying these days… you just can’t beat it for a flawless smooth finish.
That does look good!!!!!,
Thanks Micheal !
Looks amazing so far mate, can't wait to see what you do with the weathering stage
I seen the picture from yesterday I thought you used a mask for that camo pattern…. Holy crap your airbrush skills are savage
Thanks Jeff !
Thats mint bro! I can imagine them green Splodges we a pain! Had a similar issue with a 108!
Thanks Sully ! ( that 108 was tasty man )
Black basing.....you need to be really good at airbrushing! I tend to post shade and mix it up with a splatter template. But your job exceeds anything I can do!
Thanks Paul, there's many ways to get to the end result and both are valid, don't sell yourself short !
@@lpjmodels OK James 😎. Oil filters are useful for us less skilled airbrushers too!
It looks really good. My Iwata airbrush doesn't have a stop for the paint lever. Yours looks like it does. I have made a stop for it now and when wanting to detail spray like you were with the green I set the stop so I don't blob any paint on but if the airbrush stops spraying rather than disturb the setting to fully open the needle I spray a little carb cleaner from its aerosol on the tip of the nozzle while the airbrush needle open to spray It clears any blockage. Obviously this is done away from the model and let the airbrush clear any carb cleaner, you don't want that on the model. I also find carb cleaner a good and cheap way of initially cleaning an airbrush. Finish off with some proper airbrush cleaner.
Thanks Allan, you're right the h&s has a needle limiter but it's rarely used on my end. I used to use them all the time but they ended up getting in the way. I think you can buy custom parts for iwatas with a needle stop for the models that don't have them ( I remember seeing them some years ago in a magazine)
Nice work!
Great work. Can I use the Poly additive also for Tamiya and AK real colors?
Not that I'm aware of, most acrylics have this already in the ingredients list. MM gives you the option. If you want a bit of a sheen pop in a little gloss varnish with your paint mix.
Guessing you're a fan of the VMS airbrush thinner? I've used it recently for some brush painting and it's quite compatible with MMP (Mission Models).
What pressure did you use to paint the green? It looks great by the way!
About 15, thanks mate !
@@lpjmodels oh wow! I find it easier to spray thin lines at like 30+!
Just nudged your likes up to 500 :P
Also
sick painting bro
Thanks mate ! 🙏
Why does everybody use black primer instead of gray? Is it for that “Preshading technique”? Great job! A+++++
What does the poly mixative do? You're the only one I know of who uses it.
The poly is an additive that makes Mission Models stronger and gives it a slight sheen.
For example when not using the poly with MM, if you agitate it with water it can start to break down. With the poly this stops thay from happening.
It also works as a retarder.
Amazing
how did you keep the canopy at his place for the painting? later you opened the canopy kind regards
What techniques did you use to reduce the impacts of tip drying when spraying the MMP paints? I can’t seem to good results with it at such low pressure in my H&S airbrush. Watching you get such great success with it is rather humbling.
I use about 15 psi and above a lot of the time, where are you based, humidity and atmosphere can affect any paint and how it lays down. This is one of the reasons the "I never had a problem " comments you get aren't very valid. Someone in the uk will have different luck than someone in India.
Let's troubleshoot a little bit and see if we can get somewhere.
Are you using the poly mixative? This is one thing that helps a lot if the poly hasn't gone bad.
Have you tried different thinner?
I have been using vms airbrush thinner with great success, it is slightly self levelling so must affect the drying time a bit.
Is your nozzle clean? Sometimes leftover dried acrylic deep in the working of the AB can really speed up tip drying by blocking a minor section and causing a backup e.t.c.
I thin them a little more than you're supposed to as well.
I have moved more towards laquers or the "hybrids" like AK real colour for ease of spraying at the trade off for the smell as they are more durable, and definately more consistent but laquers aren't for everybody.
I hope this helps at least a little !
@@lpjmodels I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. I definitely use the poly, and have a shining clean AB. I strip it down and look into the nozzle with a glass and bright light to make sure it’s always clean. I haven’t tried the VMS thinner, but certainly have some and will give it a go on one of my paint mules. I have been using Mr Color, Tamiya and AK RC on everything and am pretty spoiled by the ease of use and bulletproof durability. I do still use Stynlrez as a primer sometimes. It would be nice to use up all that MMP paint I have in the basement. I bought a bunch and had such mixed results, I gave up.I do like the look of some of the colors. Thanks again!
Hi James,
Yesterday during the premiere I was asking about paints and put MRP instead if Mission Models. This is what happens when trying to watch the video on the TV and comment on the laptop at the same time.
What I meant was that Mission Model paints seem to difficult to get hold of in the UK. I know of a few suppliers but they don't have all paints meaning having to order from more than one, meaning two lots of postage, i'm getting mean lol.
Where do you get them from?
Great video as always. Can't believe the quality you get just using your phone.
All the best, Mark
Hi Mark, I get ya , I use scale model shop pretty much exclusively, although I haven't needed to buy any MM for months. I'm not sure what their stock levels are like .
I'm getting a pc soon so hopefully things will get get better. Pc first, then I'm saving for a camera. I'm eager to up the quality even more and hopefully provide more professional and refined content !
Thanks for the support mate 😀
Can’t wait for this video camo looks nice, I will admit you don’t see bf109s with that camo a lot do you?
Not a lot, people skip over the North African ( or in this case repurposed North African) schemes
Why not just mask with Blu Tak or something?
Ahh where the fun in that
surfacer 1500 isn't that durable for me. masking tape seems to rip out off for me despite using it on a surface several times before applying
I used to have this problem and I'm not sure what caused it.
Do you degrease the surface with alcohol before spraying? I have started giving my models a wipe with 99% ipa first
Nice Job, but very rare to have paint chips on the front of props
Thanks!
I used this for inspiration and reference
imgur.com/gallery/L2VNH37
I don't like it.
I love it
Looks fantastic.
That is all, but waiting for the next vid.
Cheers mate !
Bruh