@@VoyageRC basicly I'm busy installing Bilstein B8s with a H&R -40mm lowering kit and while I'm at it I'm replacing the bearings, swaybar links and steering ball joints as well Edit: Superpro pn# TRC0003 allows for some camber adjustment.
Can you order replacement bolts that go from the ball joint to control arm? My ball joints are still good but just noticed one of my bolts is broken off
Worst case would be total failure and the joint separates, causing suspension failure. More common would be bad tire wear due to a bad alignment with the failing ball joint and some clunking noises.
They are technically torque yield bolts. You will get mixed opinions on getting new bolts or not. The way I see it is that it’s a pretty important bolt so why not just replace it as recommended by VW. Use the old bolts at your own risk.
@@VoyageRC I tried to do it without removing the axle. If it was just a regular nut, it probably would have been fine. But it's not; it's the kind that has a nylon locking ring. The threads on the ball joint stud seem like they get buggered up as you're trying to go back through the locking portion of the nut. I got the nut to turn a few full revolutions, but then there was so much friction that the stud started turning. Tried various things to get it to stop, but nothing worked until I cut the boot completely off and clamped down on the stud really hard with vise grips. PITA. The whole suspension seems like it was designed so everything is obstructed by something else, and to make working on it with normal hand tools as difficult as possible.
Why are you replacing your ball joints? The boots were cracked on mine. What vehicle are you working on?
Got inner tire wear so went with the ones from Superpro which are somewhat adjustable unlike oem. VW Caddy Maxi
@@Emily-ou6lq 👍🏻
@@VoyageRC basicly I'm busy installing Bilstein B8s with a H&R -40mm lowering kit and while I'm at it I'm replacing the bearings, swaybar links and steering ball joints as well
Edit: Superpro pn# TRC0003 allows for some camber adjustment.
@@Emily-ou6lq that’s the way to do it. Your already in there.
@@VoyageRC ...forgot to mention the sandblasting and powdercoating of the hub carrier....
Perfect amount of chats buddy
Actually the ball joint to knuckle nut does have a torque spec. It is 44 ft-lbs. Same as 3 nuts on the bottom (ball joint to control arm)
Top nut is 45 ft-lbs and bottoms are 52 ft-lbs. 2009-2014 Jetta.
Great video bro
Thank you bro!
Can you order replacement bolts that go from the ball joint to control arm? My ball joints are still good but just noticed one of my bolts is broken off
Should be able to. Look up a part number and check out FCPEuro dot com. They usually have the best price on hardware.
Hey I got a 16 gti - I know, different car. But what is the worse that can happen with a Bad balls joint
Worst case would be total failure and the joint separates, causing suspension failure. More common would be bad tire wear due to a bad alignment with the failing ball joint and some clunking noises.
2 garages are trying to charge me £300 for this it looks like a simple job tbh
I can not swing the control arm away from the ball joint. Any tips? I removed the 16mm bolts just the arm won’t come down.
It could be stiff in the control arm bushings or some rust on the arm where the ball joint mounts.
Is it necessary to remove the driveshaft bolt? Can it not just be left in? I have this job coming up.
Driveshaft has to be pulled away to gain access to the upper bolt.
@@VoyageRC You can do it without romoving the driveshaft. It's tight but doable. But I Think it is easier to just pop the driveshaft.
You can do it without taking in out
I did it without removing driveshaft. Had to cut it off though as thread started spinning.
In the included hardward (visible at 0:49) there is an extra nut that is not used whats this for?!
It’s exactly that, “extra”. No need to worry about that little guy.
First you take off the 3 bolts before the top one so the ball joint won't turn around and will be mich easier...well done mate!
Screwdriver in the rotor can end badly, I did that once before and that little screw holding the rotor snapped off
Indeed - which is why i put a couple of wheel bolts back in to take the load rather than that little screw
We can't see anything
How do you remove a studless ball joint?
Is it unwise to just use the same axle bolt? Seems kind of unnecessary (from a noob perspective) to put a new axle bolt in there. 🧐
They are technically torque yield bolts. You will get mixed opinions on getting new bolts or not. The way I see it is that it’s a pretty important bolt so why not just replace it as recommended by VW. Use the old bolts at your own risk.
It's not necessary to remove the axle from The Hub
Not necessary, but easier. You are right though.
@@VoyageRC I tried to do it without removing the axle. If it was just a regular nut, it probably would have been fine. But it's not; it's the kind that has a nylon locking ring. The threads on the ball joint stud seem like they get buggered up as you're trying to go back through the locking portion of the nut. I got the nut to turn a few full revolutions, but then there was so much friction that the stud started turning. Tried various things to get it to stop, but nothing worked until I cut the boot completely off and clamped down on the stud really hard with vise grips. PITA. The whole suspension seems like it was designed so everything is obstructed by something else, and to make working on it with normal hand tools as difficult as possible.
@@andrewthomason3857 always easier to remove the axle
You don't have to remove the axle😂