Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner Engine Removal How To - 2.5 Liter - Low Compression - Through the Top
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2021
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In this video, I bring you along my venture of removing a 2.5 liter engine from a Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner through the top. Let's get to it! - Авто та транспорт
The exhaust manifold and axle carrier bearing bracket should be removed after the passenger axle &carrier bearing assembly is removed. The axle can be quickly removed by taking off the axle nut, lower ball joint pinch bolt, and outer tie rod from the steering knuckle. At this point, tap the end of the threaded end of the axle shaft with a rubber mallet. Then lift up on the lower portion of the brake rotor some while wiggling and pulling the axle out of the steering knuckle/wheel hub/bearing assembly. IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't use a metal hammer here because you can damage the threads easily and if that occurs more time and money are required.
Appreciate you taking the time to show how to do this. I will be swapping my 2010 Ford Escape engine later this week. And will definitely use this video as a guideline. Thanks again
@13:59 this is the PCV system. That rubber tube is notorious for developing a crack and then there will be a lean code that you can not track down. @14:52 you can see the oil/air separator that houses the PCV valve. (Big yellow barcode sticker) it is a replaceable part from Ford/Mazda and comes with a new PCV valve.
My 2011 escape has same problem running on 3 runs really rough has 244,000 miles my trany shifts fine so im preparing for the job an this video is what i needed I appreciate it so much
A salvage yard just delivered a 2.5 to my shop today for a customer's 2010 Mariner. These vehicles are made so that the mechanic can and, IMO should. pull the engine and transmission together in one assembly. Then they separate them & ship the engine w/ the wiring harness in tact.
So, for those who are interested YES the entire engine can be easily removed without removing the intake or any other engine part.
If you are planning to only remove the engine you'll need to remove the air compressor, and power steering pump and starter will need to be removed.
Hi Michael. Are you saying that the engine and transmission can be pulled out the top or do they need to come out another way? (Front, bottom) Thank you!
Starter doesn't need to come out, just the writing to it. But otherwise, I agree. Also, the axles come out very easily, rather than messing with that bracket. Wheel, hub nuts, strut to knuckle bolts and they come right out. Don't even need to disconnect the ball joint or tie rod ends
Good job, thanks for the video. I'm starting to have cylinder 1 misfire issues with my 2009 Escape 2.5 with 178K miles. It has great compression, new Motorcraft plugs and coils. Still misfires on cylinder 1. I'm moving on to the injector. I MIGHT be noticing LITTLE coolant consumption.
Hey man Happynewyear! thank you for taking your time to upload this video, I'm planning on swapping the engine on my 2009 ford escape. Do you have a video on reinstalling the engine?
Is this the same engine as a 2008 escape?
Great job amigo
Hey when I put a new engine in it how do I know which sensor goes where
Hey did you take the engine apart and find out what went wrong? I have a 2010 escape that has cyl 2 misfire and loss of compression
@ChadWilliamsFixesAll do you think engine swap from top is possible with manual transmission as well?
hey everyone you can just uninstall the the motor by taking off the front end leave transmission and tires and axels just by removing the front clip and the motor will comput by leaving everything intact
How many hours to swap the engine in a 2009 Ford escape XLS 4 cylinder.
Easier to just pull the axles out, and the engine tranny as a unit. AC compressor needed to come off, but intake, alternator and harmonic balancer did not. But otherwise very helpful to see where everything is, thank you!
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Where is the pcv valve on this engine. I want to replace it but I cannot locate it.
You wouldn't happen to know if a 2.5 from a hybrid is a good donor for a non hybrid 2.5 do you? My gut tells me they are the same motor but how can I know for sure?
How about the removal of all those leaves. Lol... .. my 2008 Ford Escape has at least 175000 miles, so I need a new engine maybe soon. Thanks for video. I'm sure I will be referencing this video alot.
You don't need to remove the alternator. Ac compressor must be removed from its bracketry and set against the lower radiator support bar out of the way of the engine.
My 2010 Fusion has 234,000 miles on it. It has the loud crack block noise and low compression in cylinder #1. Time for an engine or send it to the junkyard.
Mines all bound up between the bellhousing and the transaxle, how did you pull yours out with ease?
I did remove the harmonic balancer which did give more room
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll I hear the harmonic balancer does not have a key hole, or that it has to back on a secial way. Did you come across that?
@@josh3810 What was outcome of the balancer? Is it keyed or does it need to be precisely indexed? I have a 2009 Escape with the 2.5L with a persistent misfire.
Who cares about the old engine,s timing, BUT Make marks on the flex plate before removing the balancer to ensure that the crank did NOT move while reinstalling the new engine. Once the new engine is lower in place, reinstall the balancer. Only the flex plate getting hung up on something can cause the crank to rotate. Keep the spark plugs installed (engine won’t spin as fee. If the crank moves, you’ll have to re-time the engine. Not a big deal. I re-time them with a flat piece of steel and the valve cover and timing cover off.
Can Ford escape V6 engine can be replaced by V4 ?
No
Is yours an awd version or fwd version. I’m having an issue with hitting transfer case to the rear driveshaft
On the 4WD Escape Im working on the mounting for the oil pan is hitting the transfer so the engine cant be moved far enough to the right to clear the flex plate from the bell housing . Did you find a solution? Appears the transfer will have to be unbolted and moved or removed for clearance.
Same. Any luck when you did it?
@@tobysirus4996 how’s you get around the issue?
@@ethanjohnson3606 Had to remove the transfer.Theres some good videos on YT. One thing I wish i didnt do was loosen the crank damper bolt. It has no keyway and you must use a special tool and align the timing marks again. the damper bolt is a pain to retorque ! The tool is only for holding time not for the retorque of the damper bolt. Severe block damage can result if the tool is used to hold the crankshaft.Hopes this helps.
@@tobysirus4996 that’s really unfortunate to hear. You wouldn’t happen to have any links to good resources concerning the removal of the T case. I’m having difficulty finding anything that’s thorough and clear.
Did you make a video on reinstalling the engine?
I did! But not done editing yet :( I will try to get to it tonight or tomorrow
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll perfect! I just started pulling mine out yesterday. I suspect a spun rod bearing. It was making a light knocking sound for a week and then it seized up
You finish that video up yet?
Where did you buy the engine from?
according to the screen shots......... in the video..... Grand Valley Auto Parts in Jenison, MI.
Ironically this was what I owned, before the Matrix. Engine was a ticking timebomb, when oil started mixing with coolant at 205k miles
Oh geeze, hopefully this doesn't happen to the engine I put in. Did you have the 2.5 or the V6?
@@ChadWilliamsFixesAll I had the 2.5L
No one seems to wanna talk Bout how big pos the esapes are and how it has to be retimed when u replace it when it makes no sense at all cant find it anywhere online doesnt exsist for a 2012 model
Unless I am mistaken, if you loosen the bottom pulley and take it off, it will put the engine out of time, and when you bought that pulley back on it seeing it has no keyway in it you’ll end up bending valves. This guy is not a mechanic. Take this video with a dose of salt.
This is correct. The crank pulley needs to be aligned to make sure the crank sensor reluctor is in the right place, AND the timing sprocket has no keyway, the only thing that keeps the timing from moving is the bolt squeezing a "friction washer" between the balancer and timing sprocket. If you take the balancer bolt out and don't have the tools to time this engine, YOU ARE FUCT. LOL
More proof that ford builds absolute garbage.