AEM makes a weldless bung all you do is drill a hole where you want the sensor and it clamps around the down pipe with a sealant that melts a seal around the clamp. It's worth the $30. Had mine for 7 years on my 3000gt vr4 so far so good.
At 20:20 "Its not calibrated" the sensor is giving the car a signal that is higher or lower than a value that the oem sensor would give the car for the same measurement. Aem says "20" when the oem would say "15" under the same conditions and the car "reads" it wrong.
your video has been the most helpful every other one skips the "boring" (pretty important) wiring part. i have a question i have the aem wideband but my instructions call for a 5a fuse ive noticed all the videos ive watched all call for a 10a fuse so should i stick with the 5 amp?
My friend had the same problem on his Aem wideband. The reason was that the Aem analog output had one to two seconds lag between measurement and output which is way too much latency for the ecu to do its thing. Hope this helps!
Not a very good idea to takeout the first O2 sensor... That"s the main sensor the car reads off of. Always take the second one out. The first is the most accurate. You'll run into more problems later on if kept your presented way on this video.
I used the setting u said for the wideband to read with kpro. But im having issues getting it to actually read. Did u ever get yours to read properly? My wideband reads normally 13-14 AF but on the kpro its reading and stuck at 19:64
Jay Beatz i figured it out. The brown wire that goes to the wideband, u ground that wire aswell. And then it should read and then u set the voltage offset. I have mines at -0.8 cuz thats the closest i can get it. Hope this helps!
hey man what header are you running and did you run into the issue of it hitting your front swaybar? just did mine and it smacks into it when going into reverse. its a little annoying but its something I can live with for now. I was trying to see if it might just be my brand of header I bought or all race headers. Thanks man!
Hey Serg, im running same setup where i have to use AEM wideband and tap into pin 15, is the settings you posted on the kpro manager (minute 23:05) still the same or accurate or could you give us an update on the updated settings your tuner maybe did. thanks!
@sergmotive I need to weld a bung for the wide band so I would have three wide band Nd both 02 sensors on ? Wouldn’t work if I substitute o2sensor bank 1 with the wide band with out splicing into ecu ? Ofc getting tune right after
I would order it off eBay. You get like 30 for the same amount of money you pay at your local auto parts store. Problem is just waiting for it to ship to you cause they come from China.
wrong. the standalone systems have controllers that use 0-5v analog inputs and you can tell it that it is a wideband....narrowband and wideband are way different
@@DillyGee I believe he meant the controller .. some controllers have a (emulate?) narrowband signal to connect to the ecu and replace the original signal ... (based of the wideband data they are receiving from the sensor ofc)...
Gned If spliced correctly no, but if not the fuse will be useless and become dangerous to the driver and the components of the car should it get too much power. The fuse saves your equipment
Clutch once again. You've built like half my car by now with all the videos 🤣
Best video on UA-cam so far on the AEM gauge install!
AEM makes a weldless bung all you do is drill a hole where you want the sensor and it clamps around the down pipe with a sealant that melts a seal around the clamp. It's worth the $30. Had mine for 7 years on my 3000gt vr4 so far so good.
Good to know thanks.
Or just weld it.... lol
Awesome to know, thanks bud
At 20:20 "Its not calibrated" the sensor is giving the car a signal that is higher or lower than a value that the oem sensor would give the car for the same measurement. Aem says "20" when the oem would say "15" under the same conditions and the car "reads" it wrong.
your video has been the most helpful every other one skips the "boring" (pretty important) wiring part. i have a question i have the aem wideband but my instructions call for a 5a fuse ive noticed all the videos ive watched all call for a 10a fuse so should i stick with the 5 amp?
My friend had the same problem on his Aem wideband. The reason was that the Aem analog output had one to two seconds lag between measurement and output which is way too much latency for the ecu to do its thing. Hope this helps!
says he wants to save money while using a $200 snap-on ratchet to installed the AEM sensor HAHA.
That was borrowed forever from an old neighbor 8 years ago
and the blue cable of the signal. Where did you connect it? I have seen 100 videos and no one shows the blue cable connected
Love the video man
Also great video. Subscribed
Not a very good idea to takeout the first O2 sensor... That"s the main sensor the car reads off of. Always take the second one out. The first is the most accurate. You'll run into more problems later on if kept your presented way on this video.
Hay pothead it's bung not bong
Bryan Rothe it’s Hey not Hay country bumpkin
I used the setting u said for the wideband to read with kpro. But im having issues getting it to actually read. Did u ever get yours to read properly? My wideband reads normally 13-14 AF but on the kpro its reading and stuck at 19:64
Tekaile Davis yeah mine is too !! I don’t know what to do
Tekaile Davis let me know if you find a solution I will as well once I figure it out
Jay Beatz i figured it out. The brown wire that goes to the wideband, u ground that wire aswell. And then it should read and then u set the voltage offset. I have mines at -0.8 cuz thats the closest i can get it. Hope this helps!
hey man what header are you running and did you run into the issue of it hitting your front swaybar? just did mine and it smacks into it when going into reverse. its a little annoying but its something I can live with for now. I was trying to see if it might just be my brand of header I bought or all race headers. Thanks man!
Rene Gutierrez I'm using a ktuned k24 header with em2 sway bar.
It sounds like your bushings are a bit old
Hey Serg, im running same setup where i have to use AEM wideband and tap into pin 15, is the settings you posted on the kpro manager (minute 23:05) still the same or accurate or could you give us an update on the updated settings your tuner maybe did. thanks!
What version kpro you using for this?
Wideband reads about 7/1 all the way to about 17/1 ratios so different maps since stock is + or minus 1 ratio from Stoich. 14.7/1
@sergmotive I need to weld a bung for the wide band so I would have three wide band Nd both 02 sensors on ?
Wouldn’t work if I substitute o2sensor bank 1 with the wide band with out splicing into ecu ?
Ofc getting tune right after
Thank you!
help me I don't know where to connect the blue cable and the blue with black line where u garaje?
You have to calibrate the sensor while it's still outside the exhaust!
For my K20 EM2, could i use an rsx o2 sensor primary and secondary? or would kpro be fine?
I have the same question bro!
Galan Edwin I found out all you need is primary wide band o2, and then turn off the secondary in kpro.
And there is no check engine light?
Galan Edwin wasn’t for me! Should be fine! If not I think you can still turn it off
good detailed video
Could you just tap the wideband wires off the original 02 sensor and have both?
you should do a oil temp gauge install, just in case you run out of stuff to do lol
agreed
i might need a coolant temp gauge so we'll see what happens lol
This is the same pin (15 with green wiring?) with 05 rsx type s?
But i have ktuner
hey nice vid. where did you get that adapter for the fuse?
Josh Denoto you can find them at any auto parts store
I would order it off eBay. You get like 30 for the same amount of money you pay at your local auto parts store. Problem is just waiting for it to ship to you cause they come from China.
So basically we are only using 3 wires?
Hey if im just sticking with I/h/e, would you still recommend kpro or just stick with a reflash?
if thats all you plan to do, then a reflash is all you would need
SERGMOTIVE GARAGE is this kpro v2? Why can you not use the downstream bung and disable it in kpro?
the ktuned header im using has a built in defouler in the downstream bung, i would never get an accurate reading from there
SERGMOTIVE GARAGE I see what you mean.
Good job
What wire did you extend to get to the ELD wire
Good video man..
What Hondata do you have?
I have an ep3 and I want to use a wideband. Should I just weld another bung and install the wideband to pass inspection in Nj? What you think?
yea thats the easiest solution in my opinion
waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait how did you unbolt this sensor with this type of key? Did you cut out a portion of it to feed the sensor wire through?
It's an O2 sensor socket they sell them at every parts store
the stock O2 sensor is a narrow band, u cant replace it with a wideband.
CR2504life yes you can, wideband sensors have a wire that tells the ECU info like it's a narrowband, the wideband part is just going to the guage
wrong. the standalone systems have controllers that use 0-5v analog inputs and you can tell it that it is a wideband....narrowband and wideband are way different
@@DillyGee I believe he meant the controller .. some controllers have a (emulate?) narrowband signal to connect to the ecu and replace the original signal ... (based of the wideband data they are receiving from the sensor ofc)...
Is there any difference in result between tapping a fuse and splicing a wire?
Gned If spliced correctly no, but if not the fuse will be useless and become dangerous to the driver and the components of the car should it get too much power. The fuse saves your equipment
I would glue it would look a lot cleaner
Would be easier and cheaper to weld the bung.
A fusible link? Get the hell out of here dude.
Data logging and display only.
Where is the battery relocation video though
havent been able to make one because i have no car to do it on
Why the fuck you need to know you afr on a NA engine