I know this isn't my channel but if you think you need a fuse there,put 1, u can't put to many but u can put not enough. Come off a battery put a fuse, Come to a battery put a fuse. Great channel Steve ❤
Good video, but I believe OFC wire is better because of its lower impedance. Which higher impedance would create more heat. yes your correct.... but heat just the byproduct. What your getting OFC for is to reduce loss of amperage at the end of the wire. That loss of amps as the energy passes through the wire create heat.
I’m only using an audiocontrol 1500.1 amplifier in my 2013 Silverado I’ve already upgraded to a 300 amp alternator and I’m going to run 2 Optima red top batteries and do the big three upgrade . Thank you for being very thorough with your explanation I see so many videos on here and people have no clue what they’re talking about.
I actually change my mind I went with the XS power D 4800 one battery over double the power plus I have been hearing that the optima batteries are not that great like they used to be
Electrical system all loops once you connect the dots. And totally off the subject but I highly recommend wix oil filters instead of that lower brand🤙🏾
I had a new 240a alternator installed in my Sequoia. I plan to do the big 3 upgrade with 1 gauge ofc cable. What size fuse should I use from alternator to battery? I appreciate all your content!
I'm new to this. I been trying to figure out what brand of wire to get for speaker wire and 0 guage but the good brands price is high and the cheaper brands be having bad reviews. So will welding wire or cable be good for subwoofers
@@blackghost2848 For power and ground if you use welding go for the 2/0. Welding wire is not oversized and true AWG so the 1/0 will resemble a typical 4ga audio wire. For long runs as well as upgrading your big 3 or 4, the cost savings will be worth it. The jacket itself is also beefier and designed to take the abuse of daily shop use. As far as speaker wires I just use any 100% copper spool you can find for cheap on amazon. Unless you are running some competition high power subs generally speaking 14ga is more than fine for most applications and thats what I like. You can also buy an all copper terminal connectors box kit on amazon fairly cheap. I use the hammer type crimper which IMO does an excellent job. The welding wire I have is from TEMCo I used amazon. But next time I'm going to order from wireandsupply dot com. Better selection and fair prices. Good luck mate.
@@BudgetBassHead you can run safely under an impala The frame is a square center is hollow with many different areas open for you to pop in n out of. Even if you follow the framerail you can still keep it away from anything lower then other parts of the vehicle such as the exhaust. Wire is tight it wont sag. There is multiple spots in trunk that leads in trunk. I know personally, have a friend with a 2016 impala who had to being he had several 0/2 skyhigh runs, n the firewall wasn't cutting it
Was it easier to run your wiring down the left or right side if the car? Did I hear you say a single run was almost 30ft? Was that from your distribution block or including the alternator run also? Great build again
The longer run is always going to be the run that is opposite the battery the battery and the amplifier should be on the same side of car in order to make the run shorter
I have a 2014 v6 Camaro with 2 battery’s in the trunk, I want to do the big 3, and I was wanting to know how many fuses I would need to run the from the alternator to the 2 battery’s in the trunk
Thanks for the info !! I want to do a Big 4 Upgrade on my 07 Cadillac DTS !! Battery is under the back seat so I have more wire to run from the alt to the battery . Where did you get all that wiring from?? Because I’m going to need a good amount of it .
I just got done doing my big three upgrade in my 18 impala lt everything went good but my driver window won’t roll up or down and I’m confused as to why please help me!!!
I put a 300 amp alt in my 07 cadiliac dts my battery is under rear seat so I upgraded negative to chassis I also did positive wire from alternator to battery and there is stock wire that goes from alternator bolt to chassis I added to that as well I can not find my engine to chassis ground or is the alternator being grounded to chassis enough already?
I got a dumb ? I have a yellow top battery that has both side and top post can i hook my car wires to side post and hook up my big 3 and amp wire to the top post? Thanks for any info
Good job on the wiring on the car But u still have a stock alt So it's starving The factory alt will give enuf to run car But now your asking it it to power your car and system
I wouldn't recommend that unless you have proper fusing. Remember to fuse immediately before entering and after exiting the secondary battery. And try matching the fuse to that of your primary (stock) battery-alt wire.
very funny to see your fuses box is the worst place you can install it because the water of rain can enter very easy in your box 😁 just look at the dry sand left from the rain
@@BudgetBassHead I just got a Rockville 12.2B sub with 1200watt amp. I also plan on running L.E.D. lights under the car and behind the rims. Its going in a 99 Cadillac Deville. I'll be replacing the factory speakers with after market OME fit upgrade speakers. Any tips or advice for this application.
@@emersontucker9237 it is best to get an alternator before buying a battery, but alts can be expensive, so most people get second batts. Regardless, you should get an Deep Cycle(AGM) battery at least. AGM = Absorbed Glass Matt battery.
I got a lexus es350 I want to get 2 ddx 12 skars i currently have 2 p2s running a 2000 watt skar amp what do i need to upgrade any of the big 3 if I get the ddx12s
None. That's like limiting how much power your alternator gives your batteries. From the batteries to the amp, you'd use the fuse(s) that your amp(s) suggests.
If he did the Alt he would have completed the Big4. You are right he did a proper Big3. He also forgot the Body to Battery Ground! He should jump from the block to the frame, from the frame to the battery. You can chain link the block,body,batt!
When he aint doing "Family Fued", Steve Harvey is deep in the car audio game..
😆
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂💀
Lol very accurate
Now I can't unhear it 😅
Lmao!!!!
U sound like Steve Hurvey lol doing budget stereos
I know this isn't my channel but if you think you need a fuse there,put 1, u can't put to many but u can put not enough. Come off a battery put a fuse, Come to a battery put a fuse. Great channel Steve ❤
I swear this video hits every point for someone's first build. Love it.
I would of thought Steve Harvey had a Bentley or something but seriously nice wiring job in the engine. Thank you for sharing.
Hands down... You have the best detailed car audio videos. Very well explained 💪🏾😎
Awesome! Thank you!
Good video, but I believe OFC wire is better because of its lower impedance. Which higher impedance would create more heat. yes your correct.... but heat just the byproduct. What your getting OFC for is to reduce loss of amperage at the end of the wire. That loss of amps as the energy passes through the wire create heat.
I’m only using an audiocontrol 1500.1 amplifier in my 2013 Silverado I’ve already upgraded to a 300 amp alternator and I’m going to run 2 Optima red top batteries and do the big three upgrade . Thank you for being very thorough with your explanation I see so many videos on here and people have no clue what they’re talking about.
I actually change my mind I went with the XS power D 4800 one battery over double the power plus I have been hearing that the optima batteries are not that great like they used to be
@@christopherblack6607 so just one xs power 4800?
@@kgj7102 Yes and a Mechman 300 amp alternator
Electrical system all loops once you connect the dots. And totally off the subject but I highly recommend wix oil filters instead of that lower brand🤙🏾
Thanks for the info!
Great information and explained very well. Thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Never knew Steve Harvey was into car audio
Now you know 😁
Very very educational!! Thank you for the info!!
I went batt to alt positive, batt to chassis and block, alt to chassis negative.
I had a new 240a alternator installed in my Sequoia. I plan to do the big 3 upgrade with 1 gauge ofc cable. What size fuse should I use from alternator to battery? I appreciate all your content!
With the Big 4 double runs, what size fuse or how many fuses should I use?
Thanks Steve!
Bro love ur vids but this was to complicated should've done a simple explanation you got too much into it but keep up the awesome vids
Use welding wire. It's ofc and much less expensive. The flexibility argument is a non issue.
My new speaker wires are 8 gauge welding cable.
That's what's up. No more overpriced audio wire!
I'm new to this. I been trying to figure out what brand of wire to get for speaker wire and 0 guage but the good brands price is high and the cheaper brands be having bad reviews. So will welding wire or cable be good for subwoofers
@@blackghost2848 For power and ground if you use welding go for the 2/0. Welding wire is not oversized and true AWG so the 1/0 will resemble a typical 4ga audio wire. For long runs as well as upgrading your big 3 or 4, the cost savings will be worth it. The jacket itself is also beefier and designed to take the abuse of daily shop use. As far as speaker wires I just use any 100% copper spool you can find for cheap on amazon. Unless you are running some competition high power subs generally speaking 14ga is more than fine for most applications and thats what I like. You can also buy an all copper terminal connectors box kit on amazon fairly cheap. I use the hammer type crimper which IMO does an excellent job. The welding wire I have is from TEMCo I used amazon. But next time I'm going to order from wireandsupply dot com. Better selection and fair prices. Good luck mate.
@@hippo-potamus thank you for the info and the quick response.
Gotta teach you the under the vehicle runs. Its easy, its safe, n it use's less wiring. Especially these new vehicles
I wish I would've thought of that. Typically that's for vehicles with a higher ride height than the Impalas though.
@@BudgetBassHead you can run safely under an impala
The frame is a square center is hollow with many different areas open for you to pop in n out of.
Even if you follow the framerail you can still keep it away from anything lower then other parts of the vehicle such as the exhaust. Wire is tight it wont sag. There is multiple spots in trunk that leads in trunk.
I know personally, have a friend with a 2016 impala who had to being he had several 0/2 skyhigh runs, n the firewall wasn't cutting it
I like the sound of that but wires are already ran
I have a torrent and it was so much easier to run it under its been on there over a year no problems at all
And I do the same to all my customers cars
thank you! added more to my info
My 04yukon gave me the middle finger when I tried to up grade larger wire .
Was it easier to run your wiring down the left or right side if the car? Did I hear you say a single run was almost 30ft? Was that from your distribution block or including the alternator run also? Great build again
The longer run is always going to be the run that is opposite the battery the battery and the amplifier should be on the same side of car in order to make the run shorter
Hey man nice job, but where is the ground point or bolt of alternator my car has only 1 wire the pozitive one on alternator
I have a 2014 v6 Camaro with 2 battery’s in the trunk, I want to do the big 3, and I was wanting to know how many fuses I would need to run the from the alternator to the 2 battery’s in the trunk
Did your low battery light and battery saver light ever come on?
Thanks for the info !! I want to do a Big 4 Upgrade on my 07 Cadillac DTS !! Battery is under the back seat so I have more wire to run from the alt to the battery . Where did you get all that wiring from?? Because I’m going to need a good amount of it .
Knu Koncept kolossus Flex
Are all your wiring 0 gauge? Cause I have a 14 LTZ and I want her to be put together with no issues. What kind of fuses will I need?
I just got done doing my big three upgrade in my 18 impala lt everything went good but my driver window won’t roll up or down and I’m confused as to why please help me!!!
How did you get all those ground wire on there without your ( battery saver active) display! Also have you upgraded your Alternator?
Wait, is this the same dude from the junkman detailing channel?
What about the big 3/4 on a nissan juke ? Alternator is controlled/ regulated by the ecu
I put a 300 amp alt in my 07 cadiliac dts my battery is under rear seat so I upgraded negative to chassis I also did positive wire from alternator to battery and there is stock wire that goes from alternator bolt to chassis I added to that as well I can not find my engine to chassis ground or is the alternator being grounded to chassis enough already?
Hey did you run a wire from ur alternator to your second battery
Hey you forgot tinned copper
Also forgot dnf wire as well
This video only covers the basics. I plan to do an in-depth one later.
CCA and OFC is really all anyone needs to know.
@@downhilldaddy5282 some people don't know about tinned copper which is available in ofc for marine use to prevent corrosion.
Brick 20 that’s cool
I got a dumb ? I have a yellow top battery that has both side and top post can i hook my car wires to side post and hook up my big 3 and amp wire to the top post? Thanks for any info
Shouldn't be a problem
Are you running a stock alt?
Steve Harvey schooling car audio folks 😝
Amp in back is it on fuse battery r just battery
Man is this Steve ?
Hey... you got me! …just kidding.😉
Can I do this upgrade on my 2018 Chevy Malibu LT with Auto Start-Stop? Mine uses an AGM battery from the factory.
You can do it on any car…
Chasis ground ? Going from where to where?
Question. Does it matter to put a fuse on the new positive wire from the alternator and battery?
You are absolutely correct my friend. Thanks for asking that question. Its guys like you, that keep guys like me from damaging something. 💯
Good job on the wiring on the car
But u still have a stock alt
So it's starving
The factory alt will give enuf to run car
But now your asking it it to power your car and system
Excellent point you make. But check my newer videos I have all updated electronics including a Super Capacitor by IOXUS.
My battery is in the trunk, can I add the wire from alternator to the positive jump post?
I wouldn't recommend that unless you have proper fusing. Remember to fuse immediately before entering and after exiting the secondary battery. And try matching the fuse to that of your primary (stock) battery-alt wire.
@@BudgetBassHead yeah I kind of figured. Better off running a wire directly although it would be far
Where’s the follow up video?
U need to clean that battery terminal up
I have new ones these days 🙂
@budegetbass do you have to upgrade your positive battery cable
No, just add an extra run of, whatever gauge wire you are running. Allow the factory power wire to remain there
Man can u help me? I need an amp under 100 bucks that can get 200w rms mono or dual bridgeable. Is it possible? What would you recommend?
Of course. Doesn't dual and power acoustic have those?
Skar Audio Has Great Budget Amps.
Want to do this on my Civic but it's going to be about 250 Watt total!!!
😀 hey, as long as you're enjoying it, right!
OMG it's steve harvey!
You funny.
I havent finished video but 1st thing is that ur hooked up to a lead acid battery the worst battery u can use
This is an AGM... the best lead acid to use.
Thought it was a wet acid and lithium is the best sir agm runner up
What brand power wire are you using
I forgot. I mentioned it in detail in my video on how to upgrade your alternator. I think its Kolossus. I forgot though. I do remember its oversized.
Jacket material 😂🤣😭😶🌫️ the "INSULATION"
very funny to see your fuses box is the worst place you can install it because the water of rain can enter very easy in your box 😁 just look at the dry sand left from the rain
At what point would you need to add a second battery?
Anything over a thousand Watts
@@BudgetBassHead
I just got a Rockville 12.2B sub with 1200watt amp. I also plan on running L.E.D. lights under the car and behind the rims. Its going in a 99 Cadillac Deville. I'll be replacing the factory speakers with after market OME fit upgrade speakers. Any tips or advice for this application.
@@emersontucker9237 it is best to get an alternator before buying a battery, but alts can be expensive, so most people get second batts. Regardless, you should get an Deep Cycle(AGM) battery at least. AGM = Absorbed Glass Matt battery.
@@BudgetBassHead
What about adding a capacitor vs a second battery or a deep cycle battery?
@EMERSON TUCKER capacitors are all but obsolete in car audio these days. they are not really respected.
Is that doubled up 4 gauage or double 0gauage
4 gauge wire
What are the benefit of big 3
improved power delivery. eliminates bottle-necks
I got a lexus es350 I want to get 2 ddx 12 skars i currently have 2 p2s running a 2000 watt skar amp what do i need to upgrade any of the big 3 if I get the ddx12s
Anytime you reach 1,000 watts, you should do the big 3 and upgrade either your battery or alternator.
What size anl fuse should I use for the big 3 set up, alternator to battery for a 2880 rms system?
None. That's like limiting how much power your alternator gives your batteries. From the batteries to the amp, you'd use the fuse(s) that your amp(s) suggests.
Those grounds look like shit man. Get terminals and clean that shit up.
🗑️ CCA - COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM
✔️ OFC - OXYGEN FREE COPPER
⭐⭐ TINNED OFC - TINNED OXYGEN FREE COPPER
"you said big 4, our survey says?"
That's not a big 4. It's a proper big 3 upgrade.
If he did the Alt he would have completed the Big4. You are right he did a proper Big3. He also forgot the Body to Battery Ground! He should jump from the block to the frame, from the frame to the battery.
You can chain link the block,body,batt!
I did + positive to alt -negative to alt -negative to chassis -negative to engine that's 4 guys.