Yeah bro I put it in my breakfast cereal it really gives me that extra kick I need in the morning. I then take a quick puff of my drywall dust inhaler then it's off to the saw mill to work for the day. I've never inhaled a single harmful particle and I'm proud to say I turned 150 years old today 👍
For anyone not wanting to pay someone to spay it for them it’s super easy to do yourself. I purchased a kit on Amazon. Used my little pancake compressor and did my entire truck in 2 hours. Was under $200 for spray gun and the fluid film. P.S I used “wool wax” on the underbody and fluid film inside doors. Wool wax is thicker fluid film that won’t wash off as easy. Used fluid film inside doors and frame because it gets in all the hard to reach places better then wool wax. TIP: make sure to do it when it warm out so film “creeps” better geting the metal.
It similar what Chevy uses it sucks when you have to work on it a pain to get off I’ve used a rust converter from Eastwood then a rust protector paint and been doing great so far
Has anyone tried the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector - Amsoil MP Heavy Duty? It does pretty much dry, but leaves a good waxy film. Have heard it is a pretty good undercoat as well and doesn't need to be reapplied very often. So I did my used Lincoln crossover with it a couple few years ago, sprayed it up in the drain holes in the doors and rocker panels and stuff too. I'm up in the salt belt and so far so good.
Correct me if I’m wrong: Undercoating an already rusting frame does nothing, but looks great..? The rust is still there eating away at steel like auto paint fender bubbles starting from rusting steal underneath? Don’t you wanna sand first…
Once fluid film touches rust it pretty much stops it. It’s an oil based product so it’s hydrophobic, it prevents moisture and air getting to the rust which is what causes it to spread, it’s always “wet” so it’s self healing if a rock chips into it. Rubberized undercoatings are the kind you DONT put on an already rusty vehicle as the rust and moisture is sealed in and unable to dry out. I would personally use fluid film, surface shield, wool wax or similar products before ever using a rubberized product.
The first thing I do to any new vehicle is spray the inside of the rockers, corners, and doors with this. Then redo it every couple of years when I think about it. Too many cars and trucks rusting from the inside out, but never had a problem on mine.
Oh hey you guys are in Logan too! I was thinking about buying a truck tomorrow and I noticed all the rest on the bottom and then I looked up how to protect your truck from rust and then I saw your video and you're in Logan that's where I live. Cool. How much for the service?!
You can still hose off stuff, but if you truly want to clean everything, a standard power washer can knock everything off including the fluid film, then you can give it a fresh coat of film afterwards.
It's crazy I live in New England and I only found one place in New England Massachusetts this place is a huge market that could use this product I don't understand why you don't have locations in this area
Overtime it becomes a lot less messy as it catches every spec of dirt is touches. Eventually when it gets dirty enough and enough coats are applied, it wont even get on your finger when you touch it. You have to dig your finger in it to actually get it on you. In the beginning however? Yeah, it's a fucking disaster.
What @Deleteguest said is correct. What's more, the stuff acts to some degree as a penetrating oil and helps prevent, and ease, corrosion seized parts. All-in-all, it makes working under the vehicle easier, particularly in areas with waster and salt exposure.
Looks great, I would use it if I were back up living in the rust belt. The under coat I used back in the 80’s hardened and water was retained underneath causing rust through. I do hope, being your personal Jeep, that you went back into the frame and hit those spots you missed.
@@ElChris86 i believe it was 12 or 13 times based on what he said in another video, a few of them had to go to the hospital because they didnt wear masks, pretty interesting
Sprayed fluid film but it attracts dust and minor dirt. Under truck looks dirty and going to reapply but water hose wont remove that grime before I reapply
What is more funny is that metal surface is still reacting with whatever H2O particles under a sealed surface 😂 Basically preventing your eyes from seeing the rust
You can apply over some of the rust seen in the seems and surfaces on your Jeep and it be effective despite the presence of rust? Does it help to stop rust progression? Thank you!
As another commenter pointed out oil and water don't mix. Rust needs oxygen and water to work. If it has a direct contact oil application on it such as this stuff then water and oxygen can't reach the rust.
Short answer, no fluid film does not harden. It will tack up a bit but it will not fully dry. Longer answer, all lanolin/wax based undercoatings, at least those I’m aware of do not fully harden. Some will get harder then others but they won’t fully harden like a paint or rubberized undercoating will. This is actually good because Fluid Film in particular will creep into areas which you can’t get to easily. It will move and cover places that didn’t get directly sprayed and it’s also self healing. Meaning if a rock strikes the frame and knocks a chunk of the Fluid Film off, Fluid Film in the surrounding area will creep in to the gap and restore the protection. Obviously there is a limit as to how much it can do this before there’s not enough left to go around but that’s when touch up is required. For most vehicles, after they’ve got a good first coating on them, touch up will usually only be needed in certain spots of the undercarriage that are more exposed than others. Depending on where, what, and how you drive will obviously play a significant role in how often touch ups are required. Maybe a yearly touch up is needed for certain parts of your undercarriage, or maybe you can go several years before reapplication is necessary. The main competitors to Fluid Film that I know of are Wool Wax and Cosmoline. In my experience Fluid Film stays the wettest and is thinner but creeps better. Cosmoline is the thickest and really won’t creep too much but is also that hardest to remove. Wool Wax kinda splits the difference between Fluid Film and Cosmoline. I used Fluid Film on my heavily rusted 20 years old truck because I wanted it to really creep and penetrate everywhere. On my wife’s car and my daily driver, both of which aren’t nearly as rusted as my beater truck, I used Wool Wax. I did this because I wasn’t after the deepest rust penetration and I wanted something that was a little harder to wash off. In my opinion, all of these previously mentioned coatings are far superior then any fully hardening coating. This is because they will all self heal to an extent. Rubberized undercoatings and similar curing/hardening coatings will not self heal and if they get a chip in them, then the metal beneath may start to rust. The rust will spread beneath the coating and this is the worst possible outcome. Once the rust is set in and spreading beneath a coating, you usually won’t see it until it’s too late. Fluid Film Wool Wax and Cosmoline will not only self heal from a chip, but if rust does set in, they won’t hide it. The last major benefit to all three non fully hardening coatings is that they’re stupid easy to touch up. Technically you could literally just re-spray your coating of choice back onto the frame with ZERO prep work. However it is best to remove any large amounts of dirt and debris build up prior to touching up. But it’s usually sufficient enough to just wipe down the area you intend reapply with a rag or just blow it off with compressed air. Then you reapply and you’re done, fully protected until the next time you reapply. Hardening coatings require all kinds of substrate prep work before applying and even then you’re still stuck with the rest of their short comings. Sorry for the long winded answer, I hope it helped.
@@hobbyguy79 Generally it sucks! But I’ll take dirty oily working conditions over rusted beyond usability any day every day. Also, at least for my old truck, it is probably part of the reason the few undercarriage repairs I have done have gone halfway decently as opposed to everything breaking off as soon as a ratchet or impact is put to it.
@@2down4up Yeah, sometimes I spray Kroil on nuts and bolts before the FluidFilm. Doesn't hurt to seal the Kroil in to lube the threads for months or years in case you ever have to remove them. Like, you're going to have to change control arms or struts at some point so might as well keep the bolts healthy in advance.
Hegelian dialectic government causes the issues with sodium chloride on the streets in winter. The government inflates the money to make you spend 100,000$ on a new 4x4 truck. Then the government inspects your vehicle saying the rust has made it unsafe . Then a cousin of a government crony sells a oil to put on your vehicle every year to help it “last” 😂
Hi I’m hoping you would be able to help me out what extension are you using. I’m currently using woolwax gun with the 360 degree but it just doesn’t work. Thanks
I was told it’s a good idea to have the undercarriage coated in fluid film ONLY when the car is new. It it already has rust it’s to late and not worth it. Not sure if it’s true
Definitely not true! Fluid film drives out and repels moisture. Is it going to stop rust 100% forever? No, of course not. Is it best to do it from brand new? Absolutely! Many people buy used cars, and still want to protect their investment.
I've used it on stuff with heavy scaling and honestly I'm amazed how it just stops the rust and prevents it from getting worse. I'm sure there's a point or no return though
Yes. He didn’t mention using a rust neutralizer or anything. Fluid film will trap the existing rust and make things worse. Explains why his “personal” jeep was so rusty.
Fluid film is crap over a period of time salt water and moisture will get behind Fluid film and rust up the metal and before you know it there rust holes in the frame.....what I use is diesel fuel mixed with used engine oil and spray on my frame
@@DoublewideG it's not paint. It's oil and pigment and lanolin. It never gets hard, and it mixes with dirt to create an oily sludge of rust protection. It works.
Brand new truck in this condition? Let me guess, its a Jeep, the worst on rust brand ever existed. This coating is useless crap that will be washed off by abrasive road particles in a few months and salt will continue destroying the truck.
I was so glad when the black Fluid Film came out. I couldn’t wait to try it!
It looks so nice!
@TJ-qz6hr whats the point of getting the black one when eventually the clear coat one turns black as well with dirt and crap.
Your lungs will be well protected from rust
@@aasimovski another safety Sally....
@@thomasmeagher4801 You'll reach 60 and be able to retire then it'll hit man.
@thegeneral1955 Thanks for the heads up 👍
@@aasimovski non toxic
@@Aaaaa69999 would you eat it?
I HAVE BEEN USING IT FOR ABOUT 25 YEARS. GREAT STUFF
Ready to go 💪
I never once saw fluid film used during my time in the Navy
might as well breathe all that shit in while you’re at it, lol.
It's made with wool wax (from sheep). It's non-toxic.
Yeah bro I put it in my breakfast cereal it really gives me that extra kick I need in the morning. I then take a quick puff of my drywall dust inhaler then it's off to the saw mill to work for the day. I've never inhaled a single harmful particle and I'm proud to say I turned 150 years old today 👍
@@JOIHIINIthis is a lie.
@@JoeBuck-uc3bl I don't lie anymore.
@@SlickerNShiet Sissy
hello, could you share with us what Graco sprayer machine do you use for this application. ?
@@chanlidavid their website says Grace fireball at 2000 psi
The Graco sprayer just needs to be able to achieve the psi required. Just as important will be the tip number/orifice size you need.
How much is this cost
I swear by this stuff. My old chevy colorado was falling apart everywhere but the frame was solid 😂. I put it on everything now
Awesome!
I use NH Oil, my bro uses Fluid Film. Both are awesome! The only thing that can save a northeast car.
My bro thinks it is nonsense while his GM is rusting away and the stock GM coating is flaking off everywhere.
For anyone not wanting to pay someone to spay it for them it’s super easy to do yourself. I purchased a kit on Amazon. Used my little pancake compressor and did my entire truck in 2 hours. Was under $200 for spray gun and the fluid film. P.S I used “wool wax” on the underbody and fluid film inside doors. Wool wax is thicker fluid film that won’t wash off as easy. Used fluid film inside doors and frame because it gets in all the hard to reach places better then wool wax. TIP: make sure to do it when it warm out so film “creeps” better geting the metal.
@AlwaysBeSmart674 but how hard is it to not have it lifted in the air
@@chase5896better wear a respirator and glasses along with some old clothes if you're doing this laying on the ground
It similar what Chevy uses it sucks when you have to work on it a pain to get off I’ve used a rust converter from Eastwood then a rust protector paint and been doing great so far
Literally this application applied, is what i look for when staying away from a truck
Has anyone tried the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector - Amsoil MP Heavy Duty? It does pretty much dry, but leaves a good waxy film. Have heard it is a pretty good undercoat as well and doesn't need to be reapplied very often. So I did my used Lincoln crossover with it a couple few years ago, sprayed it up in the drain holes in the doors and rocker panels and stuff too. I'm up in the salt belt and so far so good.
Correct me if I’m wrong: Undercoating an already rusting frame does nothing, but looks great..? The rust is still there eating away at steel like auto paint fender bubbles starting from rusting steal underneath? Don’t you wanna sand first…
I was wondering the same thing
Fluid film is not paint. This is like a cavity wax
Once fluid film touches rust it pretty much stops it. It’s an oil based product so it’s hydrophobic, it prevents moisture and air getting to the rust which is what causes it to spread, it’s always “wet” so it’s self healing if a rock chips into it. Rubberized undercoatings are the kind you DONT put on an already rusty vehicle as the rust and moisture is sealed in and unable to dry out. I would personally use fluid film, surface shield, wool wax or similar products before ever using a rubberized product.
@@RL69420 Glad to know!! Just bought a new truck. Thanks!
Hydrochloric acid neutralize the rust then you FF over when dry. It works much better
Hydrochloric acid first to neutralize the rust. Then you coat it
How do you apply that thoroughly?
Fluid Film is Fantastic, used it for years.
Nice spray gun. Grayco?
Wow you actually listened to
The first thing I do to any new vehicle is spray the inside of the rockers, corners, and doors with this. Then redo it every couple of years when I think about it.
Too many cars and trucks rusting from the inside out, but never had a problem on mine.
Oh hey you guys are in Logan too! I was thinking about buying a truck tomorrow and I noticed all the rest on the bottom and then I looked up how to protect your truck from rust and then I saw your video and you're in Logan that's where I live. Cool. How much for the service?!
Ziebart was the original undercoating when I was a kid
So do you wash the underside of your vehicle during the winter after coated with fluid film or just wait till winter is over?
After the fluid film has been on for a 2-3 weeks it's still a good idea to wash the underside a few times throughout the winter
You can still hose off stuff, but if you truly want to clean everything, a standard power washer can knock everything off including the fluid film, then you can give it a fresh coat of film afterwards.
It's crazy I live in New England and I only found one place in New England Massachusetts this place is a huge market that could use this product I don't understand why you don't have locations in this area
What about using POR instead?
This stuff never dries? That has got to make doing work under your truck really messy...how long does an application of this last?
Overtime it becomes a lot less messy as it catches every spec of dirt is touches. Eventually when it gets dirty enough and enough coats are applied, it wont even get on your finger when you touch it. You have to dig your finger in it to actually get it on you. In the beginning however? Yeah, it's a fucking disaster.
@@Deleteguest do you have to get rid of the rust before hand? Or will it neutralize existing rust? The latter would make it an amazing product
@@felixhb12 it blocks oxygen from the rust so it will stop it but for best results you should scrap off any loose rust
What @Deleteguest said is correct. What's more, the stuff acts to some degree as a penetrating oil and helps prevent, and ease, corrosion seized parts. All-in-all, it makes working under the vehicle easier, particularly in areas with waster and salt exposure.
pb blaster and atf makes an excellent rust preventer
Toss in an oz of Dawn to help stick! Use it on everything… well, that I don’t mind being Super Red haha
Smells nice too.
Right Julio?
Looks great, I would use it if I were back up living in the rust belt. The under coat I used back in the 80’s hardened and water was retained underneath causing rust through. I do hope, being your personal Jeep, that you went back into the frame and hit those spots you missed.
Blows snot rockets of fluid film all over the shower when he gets home.
Wet all the time means never will dry harden? Each time some works under the vehicle will it be messy for them
How much?
Did you clean the metal first? Does that matter?
Doesn't matter with this stuff.
Info on the sprayer setup?
Stays wet? So are you saying it never dries? Or does it just always look wet?
What if there's already rust on it?
Do you have the rest of neutralizing stuff?
Where are you located, which state ?
How many time have you sprayed this vehicle?
@@ElChris86 i believe it was 12 or 13 times based on what he said in another video, a few of them had to go to the hospital because they didnt wear masks, pretty interesting
Bro thank you really need for my 2 cars 🤚🏽
Sprayed fluid film but it attracts dust and minor dirt. Under truck looks dirty and going to reapply but water hose wont remove that grime before I reapply
That’s just an added layer of protection, as long as the metal is coated it doesn’t need to be clean
Just coat over it.... that's how it continually builds layers of protection
Never trust a guy selling rust preventative that has a rusty truck
Clearly you have no idea what fluid film is….
@kenj.8897 the jeep was never coated before. Fluid film is fantastic and will greatly prolong the life of a vehicle in the saltbelt.
What is more funny is that metal surface is still reacting with whatever H2O particles under a sealed surface 😂 Basically preventing your eyes from seeing the rust
@@TheHaithamG oil and water don't mix last I checked
@@TheHaithamG you obviously have no idea what fluid film is or what it does...it's not paint..
Can Fluid film be put over Ziebart or should Ziebart be removed some how
That stuff really works.
Should you clean as much of the rust first before you spray it I figured I probably should but then again I’m no macanic 😂
You can apply over some of the rust seen in the seems and surfaces on your Jeep and it be effective despite the presence of rust? Does it help to stop rust progression? Thank you!
As another commenter pointed out oil and water don't mix. Rust needs oxygen and water to work. If it has a direct contact oil application on it such as this stuff then water and oxygen can't reach the rust.
Please tell me that you do NOT punch any holes into the vehicle?
🤔How much for a mid-size SUV?
This is a stupid question, but does it dry?
Short answer, no fluid film does not harden. It will tack up a bit but it will not fully dry.
Longer answer, all lanolin/wax based undercoatings, at least those I’m aware of do not fully harden. Some will get harder then others but they won’t fully harden like a paint or rubberized undercoating will. This is actually good because Fluid Film in particular will creep into areas which you can’t get to easily. It will move and cover places that didn’t get directly sprayed and it’s also self healing. Meaning if a rock strikes the frame and knocks a chunk of the Fluid Film off, Fluid Film in the surrounding area will creep in to the gap and restore the protection. Obviously there is a limit as to how much it can do this before there’s not enough left to go around but that’s when touch up is required. For most vehicles, after they’ve got a good first coating on them, touch up will usually only be needed in certain spots of the undercarriage that are more exposed than others. Depending on where, what, and how you drive will obviously play a significant role in how often touch ups are required. Maybe a yearly touch up is needed for certain parts of your undercarriage, or maybe you can go several years before reapplication is necessary. The main competitors to Fluid Film that I know of are Wool Wax and Cosmoline. In my experience Fluid Film stays the wettest and is thinner but creeps better. Cosmoline is the thickest and really won’t creep too much but is also that hardest to remove. Wool Wax kinda splits the difference between Fluid Film and Cosmoline. I used Fluid Film on my heavily rusted 20 years old truck because I wanted it to really creep and penetrate everywhere. On my wife’s car and my daily driver, both of which aren’t nearly as rusted as my beater truck, I used Wool Wax. I did this because I wasn’t after the deepest rust penetration and I wanted something that was a little harder to wash off. In my opinion, all of these previously mentioned coatings are far superior then any fully hardening coating. This is because they will all self heal to an extent. Rubberized undercoatings and similar curing/hardening coatings will not self heal and if they get a chip in them, then the metal beneath may start to rust. The rust will spread beneath the coating and this is the worst possible outcome. Once the rust is set in and spreading beneath a coating, you usually won’t see it until it’s too late. Fluid Film Wool Wax and Cosmoline will not only self heal from a chip, but if rust does set in, they won’t hide it. The last major benefit to all three non fully hardening coatings is that they’re stupid easy to touch up. Technically you could literally just re-spray your coating of choice back onto the frame with ZERO prep work. However it is best to remove any large amounts of dirt and debris build up prior to touching up. But it’s usually sufficient enough to just wipe down the area you intend reapply with a rag or just blow it off with compressed air. Then you reapply and you’re done, fully protected until the next time you reapply. Hardening coatings require all kinds of substrate prep work before applying and even then you’re still stuck with the rest of their short comings.
Sorry for the long winded answer, I hope it helped.
@@2down4up so what's it like to work on things under there once all greased up like that?
@@hobbyguy79 Generally it sucks! But I’ll take dirty oily working conditions over rusted beyond usability any day every day. Also, at least for my old truck, it is probably part of the reason the few undercarriage repairs I have done have gone halfway decently as opposed to everything breaking off as soon as a ratchet or impact is put to it.
@@2down4up Yeah, sometimes I spray Kroil on nuts and bolts before the FluidFilm. Doesn't hurt to seal the Kroil in to lube the threads for months or years in case you ever have to remove them. Like, you're going to have to change control arms or struts at some point so might as well keep the bolts healthy in advance.
@@charvakkarpe Now that’s a dang good idea! I may have to steal that from you! Thanks for the good advice!
What’s that setup you are running to spray it?
It's a custom setup we had built, but based off a Graco Fireball
So good it hodes all pf your leaks as well! 😂
How do we get the US Navy, Nasa, John Deer information ?
www.fluid-film.com/about/
@@MountZionOffroad Thank you Sir, Bought a can yesterday lets do this.
Hegelian dialectic government causes the issues with sodium chloride on the streets in winter. The government inflates the money to make you spend 100,000$ on a new 4x4 truck. Then the government inspects your vehicle saying the rust has made it unsafe .
Then a cousin of a government crony sells a oil to put on your vehicle every year to help it “last” 😂
Frame welds are broken
Where you at?
Dover, PA
On the rust to. Like sweeping trash under the rug. Rust will still oxidize and will still continue. Just slower
Hi I’m hoping you would be able to help me out what extension are you using. I’m currently using woolwax gun with the 360 degree but it just doesn’t work. Thanks
Increase psi I run 90 psi working pressure with woolwax and it works great
What's the average cost for a pickup
either $400 for standard, or $500 for premium. Premium we remove things like the wheel well liners to get those hard to reach areas!
@@MountZionOffroadwish y’all were located closer to NC! I’m thinking about getting this done.
NHOU is better lasts longer been using it for years
It's made from wool. I wonder why they don't call it liquid sheep.
Mustie1- bar oil and diesel mix...✨️
Any shops do this in Utah?
www.fluid-film.com/undercoating-locator/
Navy uses woolwax!
How can I do this in California in my Nissan titan 😢
@@brownieguzman502 you're allowed to own a Titan in California? Lol
Good stuff. Living by the ocean been using the original formula for years. Interesting what it's made out of.
Honestly it smells like rear dif oil
It's lanolin (sheep wool grease) based! has some petroleum and other rust preventative additives
We work with a lot of stinky rear diffs - this has an odor but nothing like a rear diff!
Living by the ocean can’t possibly be anywhere near as bad as driving on salted roads!
@@JoeBuck-uc3blNE atlantic and NW pacific coast, salt invasion from the air and ground.
I was told it’s a good idea to have the undercarriage coated in fluid film ONLY when the car is new. It it already has rust it’s to late and not worth it. Not sure if it’s true
Definitely not true! Fluid film drives out and repels moisture. Is it going to stop rust 100% forever? No, of course not. Is it best to do it from brand new? Absolutely! Many people buy used cars, and still want to protect their investment.
I've used it on stuff with heavy scaling and honestly I'm amazed how it just stops the rust and prevents it from getting worse. I'm sure there's a point or no return though
Reapply every year. The center of the differential is iron on my F150. It starts to get some rust, just spray again.
THEY ALSO USE IT AT THE ISS...INTERNATIONAL SPACE STATION...AN ENGINEER TOLD ME !!
I've never seen black fluid film. Do you tint it?
Fluid film makes Black and Opaque variants
They add graphite to add colour to it. Costs more than clear. Clear will darken on its own after time as it collects dirt and dust.
Black or brown, doesn't really matter, eventually both become black with dust and all debris attached
Who would do this kind of work? Mechanical? Auto body?
This goes along with auto body most times
I always trust sponsored content.
The stuff smells horrible for at least 3 weeks after application. But works great!
Move to south Texas, no snow. No rust. I would hate work on the truck with this crap on it.
Look no further than surface shield from PB Blaster… End Game here
MINE LEAkS SO BAD .. I'M GOOD
@@THEWEIM your Grayco system leaks ?
@@46GarageUSA NO.. MY TRUCK!!
Should you remove the rust first. If you just cover it. It will still rust, right?🤷♂️🤷♂️
Yes. He didn’t mention using a rust neutralizer or anything. Fluid film will trap the existing rust and make things worse.
Explains why his “personal” jeep was so rusty.
Fluid film is crap over a period of time salt water and moisture will get behind Fluid film and rust up the metal and before you know it there rust holes in the frame.....what I use is diesel fuel mixed with used engine oil and spray on my frame
I’m sure the stuff is all fine and dandy, but saying John Deere uses it isn’t the promotion you think it is.
It will rust underneath
Hes gonna trap all that rust on inside and it will continue to rust
State of the art... No mask needed. 😂
You should have used a painter's mask and goggles.
Another safety Sally....
@thomasmeagher4801 that stuff is vile
No mask or other ppe I just it's to coat your lungs to haha. It's ok get it in your eyes as well it will protect them from rusting ha
You didn’t wash the undercarriage and didn’t treat the areas that already has rust before applying you just don’t know what you’re doing
Too bad it doesn’t eliminate existing rust
It doesn’t eliminate it, nothing but physically removing it will do that. But it does deep creep and slow it significantly
From the rust I am seeing, the jeep is 30 days old. 😅. No one is spraying their vehicle every 6 months when they buy a new one every 3-4 years
You discredited fluid film when you mentioned NASA.
Remove the cab to do a real job
It's Ziebart.
Why are there 12 adapters on that gun?
Yep. Sealed that dirt right in there to rot the frame out. But at least it looks shiny and nice.
@@DoublewideG it's not paint. It's oil and pigment and lanolin. It never gets hard, and it mixes with dirt to create an oily sludge of rust protection. It works.
This isn't new.
Wear a face mask.
Gross
i used to do that back in Dominican Republic, I worked in the painting department, but now I need someone to paint my Cherokee
State of the art😂😂😂
Brand new truck in this condition? Let me guess, its a Jeep, the worst on rust brand ever existed. This coating is useless crap that will be washed off by abrasive road particles in a few months and salt will continue destroying the truck.