The bridge is a Guyker W1003 headless tremolo. I wish it had some sort of floyd-esque clamping system instead. Beware that the threads for the locking nut are easy to strip which is why I repaired them.
I can you tell you know what you're talking about.. How does this compare to a Floyd rose or a licensed Floyd rose by Ibanez like they had/have on there RGs. I guess my question is does it stay in tune.
I have this same bridge on a guitar I bought used - thanks to your vid, I now understand that it's missing the latch to block the trem. I'm guessing it'll be impossible to find a replacement. Otherwise, the trem works great. Once the strings are in tune, they do a pretty good job of staying in tune.
@@CoryMura It shouldn't be too hard to make one. I have an old skeleton key that almost fits. But I'll probably put a piece of wood in there - I'm more interested in a Bigsby-style "shimmer", I don't do much dive-bombing.
@@CoryMura Guyker makes this same bridge - they sent me a replacement part! In the meantime, I bought a nickel/chrome version, it looks better on my guitar.
Is there a way to block the tremolo? YES, the latch blocks it, but it is sharp and annoying and exactly where my hand is. I smoother it a little, but it still in the wrong place!
Any thoughts on the proper way to string this bridge? How long should the strings be (i.e., how many times should they wrap around the spool)? Thanks to your video, I've got the bridge set up, but I'm still have some issues with strings slipping (especially the G string).
They slip? On the bridge? That's weird. I cut the string on the end of the tuner and put it inside the spool hole. That makes around 2-3 windings on the spool i guess. Are the strings moving inside the spool if you use the trem or bend?
@@CoryMura The tuning's more stable now that I have the bridge set properly. I'm just wondering what's the best way to string up the guitar with this kind of bridge.
Excellent! Speaking of the trem and the guitar: I can't find a GW-1 here in the USA. It seems there's inventory in the EU warehouse and that's for the European market only.
I had this guitar for a while, but ultimately returned it because the trem's pulleys lost too much sustain when using the arm. Also, tuning up was in the wrong "natural" direction for right-handers. Everything else was great though.
Even though the little "arm" fits perfectly to go into hardtail mode without having to detune the bridge, the whole thing still heavily goes out of tune once I drop tune the low string (drop D in my case). Thought it would be cool to play in Standard with the trem and switch to drop D every now and then by using the little arm, however there still seems to be a tiny bit of play for it which makes it impossible to drop tune without having to retune the whole guitar
That means it isn't setup right. It shouldn't move when you tune the low E to D. Your trem still "falls" a tiny tiny bit if you lower the overall string tension. Readjust the spring tension a tiny tiny bit until it doesn't go out of tune
@@CoryMura I think is not actually intended/designed to swap between hardtail and tremolo so often...you just decide how to set it up and probably leave it so until the next setup... nothing you can safely do between to songs XD
That could be true and this arm is nothing super strong indeed. Maybe it isn't intended to work against the spring tension at all.its just how i use it.
It is actually possible to do this! The problem comes from one or both of two issues. One is that in hard-tail mode (at least on mine, but I expect it's with all of them), there actually is a little play in the up-down movement of the trem. I think if they cut the male and female pieces to really lock into each other, like an interference fit, you wouldn't be able to easily unlock it, and then some play would probably develop from wear anyway. So bringing the 6th string from E to D makes the trem pull down just a bit and makes the other strings go sharp. The other issue is that perhaps the neck moves a little with the reduced string tension of drop-D. I don't think there are any reinforcement bars or anything to make these necks exceptionally stiff. I have to say that I do get away with it using a tremol-no on a Floyd-equipped Kramer, and the neck can't be too much stiffer, so I attribute this problem on the Eart bridge to the bridge itself. How to solve it: Since the trem gets sucked down a bit with drop-D, sharpening the rest of the strings, you just have to set the spring tension so engaging the lock just barely pushes the trem up and makes the strings go very slightly flat when you're in standard. Rather counter-intuitively, this means slightly tightening the spring (compared to the tension it needs to lock completely neutrally in standard tuning). This means that the male part of the bridge will slightly pull the trem up (flatter) through the lock arm. It's such a small difference that (at least on mine) I don't even need to help the lock engage by pushing down on the bar at the same time. Now this does mean that if you want to play in lock mode in standard tuning, you'll be a few cents flat. But the beauty of this trem to me is that due to the overall geometry and the mechanics of the thick, short spring, double-stop bends don't go noticeably out of tune in the full-floating mode.
Looking the mechanism, it looks to me that the following procedure should be much easier 1. Set the spring tension very high 2. Go into hardtail mode 3. Tune the strings 4. Release hartdail pin (spring will pull a bit whole thing) 5. Now decrease spring tension until the perfectly flat position (strings now should be almost in tune again) 6. Do the fine tuning
That hardtail pin/lever or whatever we will call it is very delicate and can't take too much tension in any direction. It will break. I wouldn't recommend your way because of that. But maybe it works.
@@CoryMura Thanks for the answer. That I didn't know. Anyway, normally, the strings are perfectly tuned both in free floating and in hardtail mode. So, for me, always is the best way to tune the string in hardtail position and after that just adjust the spring. It is valid for all floating bridges. That is years of playing cheap Floyd roses experience :-)
Oooh that’s a cool system. I like how the intonation points are fixed. Very cool info thanks Sir.
Great demo Cory, I have been playing for more years than I would like to remember but this has taught me something new thank you
You're welcome.
Great demonstration, I bought this exact model used and had to set it up. I also repaired the stripped threads on the head and swapped the pickups.
How do you like it after doing that?
great demonstration, i might pick on of these up. the little arm lock is a cool idea
The bridge is a Guyker W1003 headless tremolo. I wish it had some sort of floyd-esque clamping system instead. Beware that the threads for the locking nut are easy to strip which is why I repaired them.
How didyou repair it, what did you do?
Great system! I’ve had a Floyd Rose equipped guitar for 30 years, and I still find it to be a pain to adjust.
Its the same system like here but this one is more forgiving.
I can you tell you know what you're talking about.. How does this compare to a Floyd rose or a licensed Floyd rose by Ibanez like they had/have on there RGs. I guess my question is does it stay in tune.
I have this same bridge on a guitar I bought used - thanks to your vid, I now understand that it's missing the latch to block the trem. I'm guessing it'll be impossible to find a replacement. Otherwise, the trem works great. Once the strings are in tune, they do a pretty good job of staying in tune.
I haven't find a replacement at least
@@CoryMura It shouldn't be too hard to make one. I have an old skeleton key that almost fits. But I'll probably put a piece of wood in there - I'm more interested in a Bigsby-style "shimmer", I don't do much dive-bombing.
@@CoryMura Guyker makes this same bridge - they sent me a replacement part! In the meantime, I bought a nickel/chrome version, it looks better on my guitar.
Is there a way to block the tremolo? YES, the latch blocks it, but it is sharp and annoying and exactly where my hand is. I smoother it a little, but it still in the wrong place!
Any thoughts on the proper way to string this bridge? How long should the strings be (i.e., how many times should they wrap around the spool)? Thanks to your video, I've got the bridge set up, but I'm still have some issues with strings slipping (especially the G string).
They slip? On the bridge? That's weird.
I cut the string on the end of the tuner and put it inside the spool hole. That makes around 2-3 windings on the spool i guess.
Are the strings moving inside the spool if you use the trem or bend?
@@CoryMura The tuning's more stable now that I have the bridge set properly. I'm just wondering what's the best way to string up the guitar with this kind of bridge.
Thank you very much for the review . I gonna try to buy one
thank. thats genius. I gonna by one of these guitars.
Excellent! Speaking of the trem and the guitar: I can't find a GW-1 here in the USA. It seems there's inventory in the EU warehouse and that's for the European market only.
The GW1 was discontinued, I got mine used on craigslist. They have some new models which look cool but are more expensive and don't have a trem.
I had this guitar for a while, but ultimately returned it because the trem's pulleys lost too much sustain when using the arm. Also, tuning up was in the wrong "natural" direction for right-handers. Everything else was great though.
Very good teacher.
Can i put floyd rose this guitar? Maybe?
I don't think so. There is already not much wood because the body is so small. Also the routing for the existing trem are different.
great demo, do you have a video on intonation of this guitar? thanks
What is the brand or name of this tremolo
i think the best way to adjust it would be to lock it, tune it, then keep adjusting the spring until its stable
No, that will break the lock. Its not made to work against a lot of spring or string tension.
I destroyed my lock this way the first time
@@CoryMura oooooh ok, thanks for telling me that since i will be buying one soon
Even though the little "arm" fits perfectly to go into hardtail mode without having to detune the bridge, the whole thing still heavily goes out of tune once I drop tune the low string (drop D in my case). Thought it would be cool to play in Standard with the trem and switch to drop D every now and then by using the little arm, however there still seems to be a tiny bit of play for it which makes it impossible to drop tune without having to retune the whole guitar
That means it isn't setup right. It shouldn't move when you tune the low E to D.
Your trem still "falls" a tiny tiny bit if you lower the overall string tension. Readjust the spring tension a tiny tiny bit until it doesn't go out of tune
@@CoryMura I think is not actually intended/designed to swap between hardtail and tremolo so often...you just decide how to set it up and probably leave it so until the next setup... nothing you can safely do between to songs XD
That could be true and this arm is nothing super strong indeed. Maybe it isn't intended to work against the spring tension at all.its just how i use it.
It is actually possible to do this! The problem comes from one or both of two issues. One is that in hard-tail mode (at least on mine, but I expect it's with all of them), there actually is a little play in the up-down movement of the trem. I think if they cut the male and female pieces to really lock into each other, like an interference fit, you wouldn't be able to easily unlock it, and then some play would probably develop from wear anyway. So bringing the 6th string from E to D makes the trem pull down just a bit and makes the other strings go sharp. The other issue is that perhaps the neck moves a little with the reduced string tension of drop-D. I don't think there are any reinforcement bars or anything to make these necks exceptionally stiff. I have to say that I do get away with it using a tremol-no on a Floyd-equipped Kramer, and the neck can't be too much stiffer, so I attribute this problem on the Eart bridge to the bridge itself.
How to solve it: Since the trem gets sucked down a bit with drop-D, sharpening the rest of the strings, you just have to set the spring tension so engaging the lock just barely pushes the trem up and makes the strings go very slightly flat when you're in standard. Rather counter-intuitively, this means slightly tightening the spring (compared to the tension it needs to lock completely neutrally in standard tuning). This means that the male part of the bridge will slightly pull the trem up (flatter) through the lock arm. It's such a small difference that (at least on mine) I don't even need to help the lock engage by pushing down on the bar at the same time.
Now this does mean that if you want to play in lock mode in standard tuning, you'll be a few cents flat. But the beauty of this trem to me is that due to the overall geometry and the mechanics of the thick, short spring, double-stop bends don't go noticeably out of tune in the full-floating mode.
Looking the mechanism, it looks to me that the following procedure should be much easier
1. Set the spring tension very high
2. Go into hardtail mode
3. Tune the strings
4. Release hartdail pin (spring will pull a bit whole thing)
5. Now decrease spring tension until the perfectly flat position (strings now should be almost in tune again)
6. Do the fine tuning
That hardtail pin/lever or whatever we will call it is very delicate and can't take too much tension in any direction. It will break.
I wouldn't recommend your way because of that. But maybe it works.
@@CoryMura Thanks for the answer. That I didn't know. Anyway, normally, the strings are perfectly tuned both in free floating and in hardtail mode. So, for me, always is the best way to tune the string in hardtail position and after that just adjust the spring. It is valid for all floating bridges. That is years of playing cheap Floyd roses experience :-)
Are you able to do flutters with it?
Imo no