I'm not surprised that it was getting hot with your 120W amp, since this PS1 is only rated for 100W. I've played my cranked 100W Orange Rockerverb through the PS1 for 2 hours without a break and it just stays warm, so I'd recommend not going over 100W. I have to say the PS1 is really great for the money. Of course you can getting the top of the line like the Fryette ps2 or ps100, or an Tone King Iron Man II, but those are going to cost 8-10x the price. You still get killer tone through the Bugera at a fraction of the cost.
I bought my PS1 second hand and it came without a manual. I watched 15 other videos on YT on this product and this is the first and only one with clear and concise explanations on how to properly connect it (even though you went over the 100W limit on power 😂 - as you noticed that’s why it became so hot!). Congratulations and thank you for that.
Got one. Most tube amps reach their rated power at about 1/2 or even less [3 to 5] on the volume. Many 100watt Marshalls have been known to reach about 135watts. Voltage/input adders like distortions add to the PS1's resistance because of the load it sees. To compensate, the PS1's wire-wound ceramic coated resistors dissipate more [get hotter] the same way they dissipate more heat for more amp watts as the amps volume is increased. Your metal zone, if going through the effects loop goes directly to the power section exacerbating the PS1's problem in dissipating power and even worse than if used before the amp [preamp] because it's getting double loaded. You're overloading both preamp and power-amp at that point in a way that the PS1 will ultimately fail due to its design limitations. Also, not great for your amps tranny's and lots of other stuff because the lead channel gain already overdrives, plus now your post phase-inverter section [power tubes] are overdriven as well [using the loop]. It barely gets warm on myDSL-20 [that puts out closer to 30watts]. It gets warm on my 50watters. It gets pretty hot on my 100watters. Always use the balanced direct-out when possible, even when using cab sims. I recommend this as a home practice solution more than live. Because ceramic resistors can crack rather easily if mishandled. Don't drop or roughhouse it especially while it's hot. Let it cool like your amp 1st. Remember this is a "passive" power soak. It reduces output by dissipating watts [power] as heat. Just like a toaster. A 100+ watt amp can be run at 30watts and still be pushed to 100+ watts [clipping] via more at the input by various pedals, etc. Also, the PS1 cuts your amps power by HALF even when all the way up. Just by being hooked up. So, know that the resistors are engaged from the git-go. That your 50watt is now a 25 or your 100watt is now a 50 just by hooking this up. The more you reduce the PS1 from there is up to you. The more PS1 reduction, the more heat.
It's actually A great item when used correctly meaning don't use it on an amp rated more than 100 watts. I use it on my 50 watt head in my bedroom and love it been working strong for 4 years so far never an issue.
I just bought the Bugera soak, hooked it up with my 30w Luker tube amp. Cranked it, recorded all evening . No detectable heat, it was cool. Used new speaker cable, heavy duty Jumperz brand…. And, really liked the tone!
I was using a JHS Little Black Box with my Marshall DSL100H which does not have a master volume. And even at 50 watts setting the volume to 2 is very loud, let alone 6+ which would sound the best with natural tube breakup. I bought this, there are so many positive reviews it made sense. Great price too, about the cost of a decent pedal.
Dude, THANK YOU for showing the setup. I’ve got one coming in for my combo amp and I’m tripping trying figure out how to set it up properly. You’re the man!
Never ever use an instrument cable on the amp cab output. You will burn the tiny wires inside when you play at high volume. Could cause a fire or a short which damages your amp.
@@t.sewell1513a guitar or instrument cable is only made to be used for a signal from the instrument to the input of the amplifier. The amplifiers output does carry too much power for the thin wires of an instrument cable. Thats why speaker cables exist. Much thicker wires.
I love this product for home practicing and home recording. I tried using it live. It overheated. I thought my amp had blown. Once I took it out of the chain, my amp worked fine. I was using a 40 watt Marshall DLC.
That is the amp I was running. I did have it on the 40 watt settings though. I have a gig tomorrow and I want to try it again but I think I'll use my reverb deluxe instead. without the PS1@@GeorgeHeil-gg6wv
I echo the sentiments of a few others - thank you for showing the setup. I just got mine to dial back my Fender 65 Deluxe Reverb (or really to crank it up without killing my pets). Still not sure about the Emulated Mic… is that an out signal? Thanks again!!
Question: can you run 2 speakers with different impendance at the same time? I got a 8 and a 16 ohm speakers . Got one and I like it, does get a bit hot but not like crazy hot. And it does suck tone when its set on max but thats expected.
@@fuzzb0x436 I connected both speakers in parallel.Both 16 ohm. Its a plexi combo and a 112 greenback cab, turns out they sound better on their own. With a the greenback being better
Thanks for the video! Just bought this and can’t wait for it to come in. I want to connect it to a fender combo and need an extension as the jack is tucked behind the back panel. Where did you get your TS female to male extender? Thanks!
Kids - get the facts. Only use speaker cables between an amplifier output and either a soak and/or speaker. The difference is simple and if you can unscrew the plug to expose the wires you can easily identify. Instrument level cables have the ground as a braid which wraps around the center lead. Speaker cables use two independent wires running side by side without a braided ground wrapping around the wires. Speaker wires basically are like regular lamp cord or electrical power cords. In fact lamp cords make excellent speaker cords but just make sure you attach ground to ground and lead to lead when you attach the connectors.
Yeah, it’s boiling hot because you’re running a 120w amp into a 100w attenuator. Not to mention your cable situation is also pretty sketchy. I wouldn’t take any advice from this guy
They get pretty hot if you're pushing any amp that's over 50 watts at a high volume with the powersoak dialed down. I would recommend either modding them to have a pc case fan pushing air through them or just something as simple as buying a small desk fan and pointing it at the side of the powersoak. Anything that will get air pulling heat off the resistors. It's pretty common for ceramic cement resistor attenuators to get toasty (THD called theirs a hotplate for a reason).
@@countzero5150 rated for 100watts or less . . anything over 50 w i would suggest a small desktop fan to dissipate the heat . . nice video . . for the money this attenuator is great
This guy hasn't got a clue what he's talking about, if you use a guitar cable to hook up an amp and speaker you won't just ruin the cable, you will run a risk of killing your amps output transformer and having a very big repair bill. Basically do not listen to this guys advice if you like your amp.
Who gives a crap what you think. I've been a sound engineer for more than 20 years. By the way, I'm still using the same cable and guess what? Netiher the cable nor the amp have burnt! Go take your prozac, dork!
@@EmilKleinGearAndBeer well you shouldn't be a sound engineer if this is an example of your "knowledge" I feel sorry for any musicians performing at venues who hire you. Just because you've done a job for 20 years doesn't mean you know your trade and you clearly don't. Go and get educated about subjects before offering advice.
@@EmilKleinGearAndBeer no I'm not that stupid to follow the bad advice of a supposed "professional engineer". Do I know ppl who have had thier output transformer damaged by following bad advice like you give? Yes I do. 👍🏻speaker cables and guitar cables are different and serve different purposes. Learn your trade 😉
@@fuzzb0x436 So, it hasn't happened to you, but rather talk a lot of Sh*t! The amplifier signal goes OUT to the Power Soak, not the other way around you IDIOT!!! In any case you would burn the attenuator not the amp. Keep talking shit, no one cares!
You realise the PS1 is only designed for amps up to 100 watt, using it with a 120w amp will overload it and cause it to get very hot before eventually cutting out due to thermal loveerload.
Please read if considering. Do not let the “boiling hot” thumbnail dissuade you. It was hot because he was blasting 120 watts into a 100 watt attenuator. Furthermore, you want an attenuator this is at least twice the rating of your amp, otherwise you will likely be disappointed when you try to get the dirty cranked amp tones at reasonable volume, because muddy disappointment awaits. Like a lot of stereos/audio equipment, they generally do not sound great when pushed to the very max. This attenuator works great with 15-30 watt amps. You can crank the amp into its sweet spot and play a full gig and the Bugera will be cool enough to immediately pack up after the gig. Do not use an instrument cable to go from the attenuator and the amp or you will damage the transformer in your amp. You need a good quality speaker cable. Hosa makes very nice, very cheap cables…Amazon has them same day depending on where you live. Check with your manufacturer to be sure, but the ohm rating you need depends not only the speaker rating, but also the # of speakers you have. If you have a single 8ohm, you use 8. If you have 2 8ohm speakers you need to use the 4ohm output. It gets even more complicated depending on the attenuator because some manufacturers state that you can use whichever sounds best. It’s very straightforward with one speaker, but it’s worth contacting tech support to be sure. This unit at 100% does not mean the amp is getting the full output of the amp rating. At 100% it cuts volume roughly by half. This is why they work best with lower wattage amps. The lower you go in the dial, the more power it soaks and with that comes an EQ shift, or what a lot of people refer to as tone suck. Last piece of advice is to keep the volume at a max of 60%. That is plenty to drive the power tubes and get the amp to break up. Start with the attenuator at its lowest setting, 100 on this unit, and turn the amp up to the lowest volume that gives you the tone you want and then dial the attenuator get the volume you need. Cranking the amp all the way up and choking the volume out will have your amp running very hot and that will decrease the life of tubes and other components.
I'm not surprised that it was getting hot with your 120W amp, since this PS1 is only rated for 100W. I've played my cranked 100W Orange Rockerverb through the PS1 for 2 hours without a break and it just stays warm, so I'd recommend not going over 100W. I have to say the PS1 is really great for the money. Of course you can getting the top of the line like the Fryette ps2 or ps100, or an Tone King Iron Man II, but those are going to cost 8-10x the price. You still get killer tone through the Bugera at a fraction of the cost.
I love that you show details on how the device is connected to the amp. Great job!
I bought my PS1 second hand and it came without a manual. I watched 15 other videos on YT on this product and this is the first and only one with clear and concise explanations on how to properly connect it (even though you went over the 100W limit on power 😂 - as you noticed that’s why it became so hot!). Congratulations and thank you for that.
Got one. Most tube amps reach their rated power at about 1/2 or even less [3 to 5] on the volume. Many 100watt Marshalls have been known to reach about 135watts. Voltage/input adders like distortions add to the PS1's resistance because of the load it sees. To compensate, the PS1's wire-wound ceramic coated resistors dissipate more [get hotter] the same way they dissipate more heat for more amp watts as the amps volume is increased. Your metal zone, if going through the effects loop goes directly to the power section exacerbating the PS1's problem in dissipating power and even worse than if used before the amp [preamp] because it's getting double loaded. You're overloading both preamp and power-amp at that point in a way that the PS1 will ultimately fail due to its design limitations. Also, not great for your amps tranny's and lots of other stuff because the lead channel gain already overdrives, plus now your post phase-inverter section [power tubes] are overdriven as well [using the loop]. It barely gets warm on myDSL-20 [that puts out closer to 30watts]. It gets warm on my 50watters. It gets pretty hot on my 100watters. Always use the balanced direct-out when possible, even when using cab sims. I recommend this as a home practice solution more than live. Because ceramic resistors can crack rather easily if mishandled. Don't drop or roughhouse it especially while it's hot. Let it cool like your amp 1st. Remember this is a "passive" power soak. It reduces output by dissipating watts [power] as heat. Just like a toaster. A 100+ watt amp can be run at 30watts and still be pushed to 100+ watts [clipping] via more at the input by various pedals, etc. Also, the PS1 cuts your amps power by HALF even when all the way up. Just by being hooked up. So, know that the resistors are engaged from the git-go. That your 50watt is now a 25 or your 100watt is now a 50 just by hooking this up. The more you reduce the PS1 from there is up to you. The more PS1 reduction, the more heat.
Thank you so much. I only have combos and a ‘65 Twin Reverb. You showed me exactly what I needed to understand. Truly appreciate this.
It's actually A great item when used correctly meaning don't use it on an amp rated more than 100 watts. I use it on my 50 watt head in my bedroom and love it been working strong for 4 years so far never an issue.
Loved your video man, very well explained everything that I was looking to know. Thanks
I just bought the Bugera soak, hooked it up with my 30w Luker tube amp. Cranked it, recorded all evening . No detectable heat, it was cool. Used new speaker cable, heavy duty Jumperz brand…. And, really liked the tone!
I was using a JHS Little Black Box with my Marshall DSL100H which does not have a master volume. And even at 50 watts setting the volume to 2 is very loud, let alone 6+ which would sound the best with natural tube breakup. I bought this, there are so many positive reviews it made sense. Great price too, about the cost of a decent pedal.
I was hoping to see what it sounded like with the amp dimed and the attenuator reducing the sound levels. Maybe I missed it.
You also missed an 'm' in 'dimmed.' The amp's volume was set to 50%, which would have been too loud without the attenuator.
Dude, THANK YOU for showing the setup. I’ve got one coming in for my combo amp and I’m tripping trying figure out how to set it up properly. You’re the man!
Hell yeah man! I was not expecting you to jump straight into some Pantera and then strait into "Blackened" 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Never ever use an instrument cable on the amp cab output. You will burn the tiny wires inside when you play at high volume. Could cause a fire or a short which damages your amp.
🤣🤣🤣
What 😂
?
What would you use to go to another cabinet then….a guitar cable?
@@t.sewell1513a guitar or instrument cable is only made to be used for a signal from the instrument to the input of the amplifier. The amplifiers output does carry too much power for the thin wires of an instrument cable. Thats why speaker cables exist. Much thicker wires.
I love this product for home practicing and home recording. I tried using it live. It overheated. I thought my amp had blown. Once I took it out of the chain, my amp worked fine. I was using a 40 watt Marshall DLC.
No overheat with the 20 watt DSL C
That is the amp I was running. I did have it on the 40 watt settings though. I have a gig tomorrow and I want to try it again but I think I'll use my reverb deluxe instead. without the PS1@@GeorgeHeil-gg6wv
These passive attenuators are meant to get warm/hot. That is how they dissipate the power, it converts it to heat.
Beautiful piece of classic on Warlock =) thnx for sharing
Great Video, exactly what I was looking for!!! thx!!!
I echo the sentiments of a few others - thank you for showing the setup. I just got mine to dial back my Fender 65 Deluxe Reverb (or really to crank it up without killing my pets).
Still not sure about the Emulated Mic… is that an out signal? Thanks again!!
What’s the extension cable from the speaker to the attenuator? Does it need to be a female to make speaker cable? I can’t find anyone selling it …
Nice and the comment on the cab simulator made great sense, some people who demoed it said the line out is shit, I understand why know
This is High Art.
120 watt amp = 100 watt attenuator
There is your problem
Question: can you run 2 speakers with different impendance at the same time? I got a 8 and a 16 ohm speakers .
Got one and I like it, does get a bit hot but not like crazy hot. And it does suck tone when its set on max but thats expected.
Yes, you can. It might give you trouble at high volume, however, at low to mid volume is perfectly fine!
Do not run 2 cabs at the same time, it may work if you do it but you shouldn't do it, it's not designed to work in this way.
@@fuzzb0x436 I connected both speakers in parallel.Both 16 ohm.
Its a plexi combo and a 112 greenback cab, turns out they sound better on their own. With a the greenback being better
Really cool video!
What hapen if i put a different ohm cab on?
Thanks for the video! Just bought this and can’t wait for it to come in. I want to connect it to a fender combo and need an extension as the jack is tucked behind the back panel. Where did you get your TS female to male extender? Thanks!
Nice! I got the extender on amazon. Good luck and enjoy! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Kids - get the facts. Only use speaker cables between an amplifier output and either a soak and/or speaker. The difference is simple and if you can unscrew the plug to expose the wires you can easily identify. Instrument level cables have the ground as a braid which wraps around the center lead. Speaker cables use two independent wires running side by side without a braided ground wrapping around the wires. Speaker wires basically are like regular lamp cord or electrical power cords. In fact lamp cords make excellent speaker cords but just make sure you attach ground to ground and lead to lead when you attach the connectors.
It's an un-shielded cable which is what you'd use for speakers.
Yeah, it’s boiling hot because you’re running a 120w amp into a 100w attenuator. Not to mention your cable situation is also pretty sketchy.
I wouldn’t take any advice from this guy
I ran mine from my Origin 50 head on high output turned to 10 and the power soak got very hot.
Exactly, it's an inexpensive option, however; if you can save a bit more for a better one, you should. Cheers!
They get pretty hot if you're pushing any amp that's over 50 watts at a high volume with the powersoak dialed down. I would recommend either modding them to have a pc case fan pushing air through them or just something as simple as buying a small desk fan and pointing it at the side of the powersoak. Anything that will get air pulling heat off the resistors. It's pretty common for ceramic cement resistor attenuators to get toasty (THD called theirs a hotplate for a reason).
@@countzero5150 rated for 100watts or less . . anything over 50 w i would suggest a small desktop fan to dissipate the heat . . nice video . . for the money this attenuator is great
Great fingerstyle!
6:21 for test
Emil you are fucking awesome buddy ! Made my day your a super funny dude and an awesome guitar player
Thank you, Mark! Happy new year, man!
Do you realize what it does? It absorbs power... it's should get hot.
120 watt amp into 100 watt antennuator is a NO NO. plus adding pedals adds more gain.....you needed a 200watt antennuator my friend!
That's exactly what I said: 10:49
@@EmilKleinGearAndBeerlol that’s not exactly what you said
Barely warm with my 50w amp
This guy hasn't got a clue what he's talking about, if you use a guitar cable to hook up an amp and speaker you won't just ruin the cable, you will run a risk of killing your amps output transformer and having a very big repair bill. Basically do not listen to this guys advice if you like your amp.
Who gives a crap what you think. I've been a sound engineer for more than 20 years. By the way, I'm still using the same cable and guess what? Netiher the cable nor the amp have burnt! Go take your prozac, dork!
@@EmilKleinGearAndBeer well you shouldn't be a sound engineer if this is an example of your "knowledge" I feel sorry for any musicians performing at venues who hire you. Just because you've done a job for 20 years doesn't mean you know your trade and you clearly don't. Go and get educated about subjects before offering advice.
Has it happened to you? Did you have to fix your amp for using a normal cable? 🤣
@@EmilKleinGearAndBeer no I'm not that stupid to follow the bad advice of a supposed "professional engineer". Do I know ppl who have had thier output transformer damaged by following bad advice like you give? Yes I do. 👍🏻speaker cables and guitar cables are different and serve different purposes. Learn your trade 😉
@@fuzzb0x436 So, it hasn't happened to you, but rather talk a lot of Sh*t! The amplifier signal goes OUT to the Power Soak, not the other way around you IDIOT!!! In any case you would burn the attenuator not the amp. Keep talking shit, no one cares!
cool
🤘🏼
120w amp in an apartment!!! Wow😂 your neighbors musy hate you!
You realise the PS1 is only designed for amps up to 100 watt, using it with a 120w amp will overload it and cause it to get very hot before eventually cutting out due to thermal loveerload.
100 watt device! Lol
Please read if considering. Do not let the “boiling hot” thumbnail dissuade you. It was hot because he was blasting 120 watts into a 100 watt attenuator. Furthermore, you want an attenuator this is at least twice the rating of your amp, otherwise you will likely be disappointed when you try to get the dirty cranked amp tones at reasonable volume, because muddy disappointment awaits. Like a lot of stereos/audio equipment, they generally do not sound great when pushed to the very max. This attenuator works great with 15-30 watt amps. You can crank the amp into its sweet spot and play a full gig and the Bugera will be cool enough to immediately pack up after the gig. Do not use an instrument cable to go from the attenuator and the amp or you will damage the transformer in your amp. You need a good quality speaker cable. Hosa makes very nice, very cheap cables…Amazon has them same day depending on where you live. Check with your manufacturer to be sure, but the ohm rating you need depends not only the speaker rating, but also the # of speakers you have. If you have a single 8ohm, you use 8. If you have 2 8ohm speakers you need to use the 4ohm output. It gets even more complicated depending on the attenuator because some manufacturers state that you can use whichever sounds best. It’s very straightforward with one speaker, but it’s worth contacting tech support to be sure. This unit at 100% does not mean the amp is getting the full output of the amp rating. At 100% it cuts volume roughly by half. This is why they work best with lower wattage amps. The lower you go in the dial, the more power it soaks and with that comes an EQ shift, or what a lot of people refer to as tone suck. Last piece of advice is to keep the volume at a max of 60%. That is plenty to drive the power tubes and get the amp to break up. Start with the attenuator at its lowest setting, 100 on this unit, and turn the amp up to the lowest volume that gives you the tone you want and then dial the attenuator get the volume you need. Cranking the amp all the way up and choking the volume out will have your amp running very hot and that will decrease the life of tubes and other components.