Before you place metal, I would suggest you bring your truck or another piece of heavy equipment in and do a complete peridoc maintenance (oil change, hydraulic fluid change, filters, lubrication, etc.) It will give you a better idea of any shadows or dark spots when working and if you need an extra light fixture in the area where you are maintaining your equipment (generators, lifts, tele-handler, etc. ) The fewer portable lights (and power cords) you need across the floor the better. (You can never have enough light.) You may consider dropping a couple of (retractable) 20A power outlets from the ceiling between your working bays. I had two in my shop and used them more than any wall outlet when working on vehicles and equipment. Granted, with all of the battery operated tools available today, the dropped outlets from the ceiling not be as critical. My compliments to you on the process. Well done.
Check out Wago 221 lever nuts next time! For most every situation, they’re easier to use (and in my opinion safer) than wire nuts. Especially when working overhead, I’ll usually clip the ground of the fixture into a Wago and that’ll hold the fixture in place until the other conductors are completed. Check out Everyday Home Repairs for any concerns around load ratings and safety concerns. Shop is looking awesome! 🎉
NICE!!! I also did the lights in my shop in Romex before the ceiling steel went up, same as you. Looks so much more tidy than having conduit all over the ceiling! 4K lights in the shop are the best temperature I agree. No worries from the armchair electricians, you did great!
what you can add, at the side where the RV is, are some lower wall lights to illuminate the cargo bays, and add some light to the back wall to get some "work" lights when you need to check engine stuff, also adding a big curtain to divide the RV space from the rest of the shop would be awesome
I'm not an electrician, I *am* DIYer, and I know traditional wire nuts are still widely popular, but especially with the rework you know you're going to be doing as the steel goes up, I'd really recommend the Wago "221" Lever Nuts instead..
I wouldn't worry too much about online electricians, Kyle! I'm a licensed electrician now and have been doing it for 12 going on 13 years, and one thing I've observed about people with a license is they are often wrong about things and don't like to admit it! Even when I show in the NEC code book that they are wrong about some of the things they say, they still are stubborn and won't admit they are wrong. Personally, I think you do great work on your builds, especially your remodel work you sometimes throw in, and I know you probably received some good knowledge from the electricians you have used on your buildings. That's the only thing I have to say, Kyle! oh, and at frame 0:38,, Greg is looking like Captain America the way he is standing in the background behind you lol! He really does! You should check out 0:38, and you'll see what I'm talking about hahaha
I'm sitting here watching you open a 12-2wg 250 NM and 12-3 coil of wire and doing some nice long runs and not even complaining about the cost of copper wire. Amazing. Do you remember the prices in the 80's-90's?
There can almost never be too much light in a shop. I was working in the Huckleberry RR shop when a new bay was added; Dennis wanted those sodium lights in the ceiling instead of the fluorescents that were in the rest of the shop. What a difference they made. I concur with others about installing the air compressor outdoors or in a separate room for noise control and running a 1-inch airline in a complete loop around the building with drops every 10 to 15 feet with shutoff valves to each drop and possibly additional valves to be able to isolate part of the loop if the need arises. Consider adding an air drier if you are considering using air to paint with as painting needs dry air. Retractable power drops are a good way to keep extension cords off the floor. Installing a few extra circuits now will allow easier options later. One addition that someone suggested is to have one or two lights stay on for safety and security when all of the other lights are turned off. I operated a laundromat for about 15 or 16 years and had one light fixture stay on for security; it was worth it.
Having critiqued the electrical work on this channel before, I’ll give it to you this time. Looks good and got yourself some quality looking lights! Even got the 3 way right the first time! Just make sure to install a grounding pigtail in each of those metal boxes when you go back and do the final wiring ;)
Electrician for 20+ years now, noticed this right away. He did not ground any of his metal boxes. The metal boxes could become energized and never trip the breaker - VERY DANGEROUS!
I'm an electrician and I can say you guys did a good job. It's pretty much the same way I would have wired it myself and I've been doing electrical for 30 years. My dad has owned his own business since I was 3 years old. Started helping him on the job when I was around 7 year old.
Having backed a large RV into a garage in daylight, I strongly recommend lights along the wall so you can see in your camera and mirrors. With the ceiling lights alone your mirrors will be usesless until they are inside the door during daylight.
One other thing you might consider lighting wise is 1 or 2 lights on a light sensor so that you shop is never 100% dark light a night light. My local farm supply sells some 300w equivalent LED's that only burn about ~20 watts.
Your comment about inspections is spot on! In Maine, you have to have permits for just about everything. They require inspections of Electrical and Plumbing, but not much inspection for construction! Anyone can call themselves a "Contractor" in Maine... no license required! It's weird!
I've personally rewired several shops over the years, and unless the light requires a hard wire, I'm a big fan of using outlets. Makes it easier to swap to newer in the future.
Those light are amazing! Definitely use the high bay type lights in the wood shop area and make it where you don't have to have them all on at once. I'd use softer lights in the loft.
Wagos better than wire nuts Plus the wiring in the zones should be a thing, even if you are never going to sell up and move But it's good to see how you've done it and run it around the back of the wood
Looks great. When I built my pole building, I had to run my electric in conduit if I was putting it on top of the purlins like you did. And they said it was for that exact reason you mentioned...😅
I have the same high bay lights in my shop that you used over the RV & I love them! It was a big change from used 4’ fluorescent light fixtures! RRHQ2.0 is looking sweet!
@4:00 lmao at Greg being the low-key MVP I came up with an idea while watching this. If I think ahead a little bit, I could just grab a small palm router to put a channel on the back side of the girts that need one when running the wires. No need to take the board down to the ground and fight with the miter saw.
Looks awesome guys! Get yourself some of the Wacos when you do the final connection, it's so much faster. The whole system might even be brighter depending on what you do on the floor. I love all my Hyper-lights, I installed 24 in my ceiling, it looks like an operating room and is perfect for detailing cars! Take care and don't work too hard. By the way, very nice motor coach!
I think the light will work great, Kyle. Just with the 4 lights up, it gives a good idea how much light it will give the rest of the shop. Using what you already have to see how you like it is smart. It's your RRHQ, so the light only needs to be good for what you need, Kyle
I know metal is harder to surface mount electrical but that is what I did in my woodshop I built a few years ago, main reason it's easier to add more later and no wires in the walls at all and seal is not broken for air to move.
If you do decide to install receptacles in the ceiling and willing to spend a few more dollars I would install twistlock plugs and recepts, at least in the high bays to reduce the chance of them becoming loose over time. That's what I would recommend to a customer but most customers don't have a lift.
I would do dual receptacles and put plugs on the lights. That way you are a future owner can change out the lights easily. I would also do 6000K to me 4K is too yellow. Thanks Kyle!
Suggestion: Before you close up the ceiling, install some cord reels on separate circuits down the center so you can plug things in without extension cords on the floor.
It must have been hurting Greg to watch you up there without a pouch with tools in it too! Kyle looks down and all of the sudden, there's his tool pouch extended to him on the end of one of those awesome Stabila levels hahaha
Good job on the electric,. If the RV is gonna be inside all winter, why not make the cieling a feature"", you normally use Black, Grey or White for Ceiling metal, how about finding a colour that will reflect Down onto the RV to make it stand out. Good Job Kyle & Greg!!.
the only thing I would caution you on is when you pull the wire through the "middle" of the stud is that you have 1and 1/4" clearance in both sides! those clearances are to avoid nails or screws being able to pierce the wire jacket and cause a potential short and fire in the future! That would be one safety tip on that. nail plates they sell for covering the places that don't have that 1-1/4" clearance on the face of a stud or the top plate where it comes down into the wall cavity, Kyle! Definitely a safety practice to follow my man. and where you have three and for wires coming down into a two gang box. they have stacker wire keepers to hold them to avoid them being too close to the face of your studs and plates. That's all I'll say
Those look like hyper lights which is what I put in my barn, they work great and look good in RR 2.0... hyper lights come with a plug already on them so it's just a receptacle on the ceiling to plug them in ..
You may consider installing plugs for your lighting. If you need to change or add a light it will be easier. You could also up-grade the the wire to 12 awg this will make it possible to have 20amps available if you want to drop power to a work station without running it across the floor.
You may have already mentioned doing it in an earlier video and I dont remember. But if you're not already planning on it, the two large rectangle spaces in the truss for the upstairs would be a good place for a couple large windows and you could see down into the shop when upstairs.
If you’re planning on keeping your rv parked there, you may want to consider moving the lights closer to the walls so that when you’re beside your rv you’re not in its shadow. In other words, place the lights above the walkin area, not the rv.
Are you going to put outlets on the ceilings for drop down extension cords, with a power switch at floor level (to turn the outlet on). For your wood shop, are you gonna put in a dust collector system? Have you considered a separate room for the dust collector (noisy things). Air compressor? With air lines around your shop. This way the noise is away from your shop area, keeping it more quiet. Are you gonna enclose the wood shop, dust sucks, especially if dust makes it to the middle shop area and RV. You should think about getting air filtration for the wood shop to keep the air clean. 220 volts for machinery around your shop (2-3 separate lines). Depends on the type of woodworking equipment you put in (table saw, bandsaw, sanders, jointers, thickness planers). Also for your middle floor Area and any type of machinery you use. Welding machinery?? Also emergency shut off switches for power in the wood shop and in the middle shop (metal fabricating area).
Nice bus. I work at an rv repair shop. I have to work on those things every day. Hope yours isn't a POS like most out there. Love the content. Keep it up.
I would suggest when you reinstall the light fixtures after the ceiling is up that rather than tying your fixture leads directly to the feed & fed lines you tie them together with a pigtail to attach to the fixture leads. This is code required in some jurisdictions and, while it may take a few more minutes to do this, it is, in my experience, makes for a better installation. And, when those "lifetime" LED fixtures turn out to have shorter lives than we have all been led to believe, you (or your son) will appreciate how much easier it is to change the fixtures. Kudos, though, on using all 12 gauge wire! Better to overbuild than underbuild - in all aspects.
You’re attempting to reference NEC 410.71. And that rule really only applies to fixtures with double ended lamps (tube style LEDs and fluorescents) that are designed to be serviceable. The rule also doesn’t state where the disconnect has to be. One can argue that the wall switch is satisfactory. Best practice when discussing electrical requirements is to have knowledge of the code and be able to reference the articles you’re talking about. Otherwise you’re just stating your opinion on something that a professional can tell you don’t really understand. But hey, this is UA-cam, everyone is a pro.
@@wm79198 I am well aware the requirement is not code required in all applications, but it is required per a number of local codes and my comment was to that effect. Regardless, it is (in my opinion and apparently also in the opinions of a number of professionals in a number of jurisdictions around the country) a good and proper practice. On a related note, it is also my considered opinion based on a lifetime of experience that the cheap "residential" grade duplex outlets should actually carry the moniker, "residential firestarter" grade. As has always been the case, there is code and there is good professional practice and on many issues the latter is preferable to the prior.
If you make all your lights, a plug connector when one fails or if you decide to go another way, it should be a quick and easy uninstall install process .
I think that these look amazing! My only thought is that the RV bay should have 3 rows of 3 lights instead of 2 rows. Only reason I'm thinking this is because when the RV is parked inside, how much of the light will be simply shining on top of it and not be broadcast out into the space (I hope this is making sense).
I'm no electrican or even an amateur, but from an ergonomic standpoint, the plugs you mentioned possibly putting in each box is exactly what I was thinking. But I'm not sure why you didn't just do it right then. It would be done. just plug the lights in, and when steel goes up, simply unplug and plug back in. No actual wiring involved. not to mention in the future if you decide on new lights (the vast majority are plug-in style these days), it's already done.
Here in Texas we inspection's for every phase from foundation steel to finished roof insulation and plumbing electrical have to have a master license you can do it yourself which I've always done but they have to sign off on it the guys with the licenses anyways it's looking good man for me the layout for lighting along with the ceiling steel is a headache but I've never installed any steel except for galvanized roof didn't care for it
if possible how about for the high bay area if you can wire in a seperate switch for changing the 4k and 5k lighting for the lights, just in case you want more light you can change when you need it.
I'm interested in seeing the radiant heat in the floor being hooked up and finished. Kyle, is that all you plan to do for heat on the bottom floor is the floor radiant heat? Curious how the walls and ceiling are going to turn out on your new shop now that you have most of your lighting installed.
A combination of general lighting and special lighting will often be appropriate. For most types of work, the required values are 200 or 500 lux, while 1,000 or 1,500 lux are required for more light-demanding tasks. The requirements for illuminance are calculated based on people with normal vision. don't know if you work with lux as well
Any plans to add a "shore power" outlet for the RV? Would be super useful if you ever plan to use your RV as living/guest space while it's parked in your shop.
I would have ran conduit because i like the look on metal walls/ceilings and can always add different stuff later. Regardless you did a good job wiring from what I've seen.
Definitely do cans with LED trims or led wafer lights in the lower ceiling and office. You can have more of them to have an even spread of light without bright spots
For the porch lights I would put in a switch and a photocell so that when the outside light gets to a certain level it comes on. The switch is to control the electricity.
@21:00 the plug option would make future upgrades much more straight forward and also open up unknow future options. and Replacements because of faluire on the fixture would be much more straight forward.
Consider caseta by lutron smart switches instead of hard-wired 3-ways. Saves a TON of time pulling wire. The M12 cable stapler is also amazing, even for just one job like this.
I would have put a thin rigid plastic plate over the nail plates before running the wires over them. There will a small amount of movement of the wires in use, creating the potential for abrasion of the outer and even the inner sleeving.
Did I miss it? I am looking to find what lights he used in this video, I'm building one soon and looking for lights for a 12' high machine shop and auto shop. Very nice work they are doing, I only hope in my lifetime I can see a shop like this. Thanks
Having both 4k and 5k lights simulate sunlight to some degree. May be worth considering leaving a few of each in strategic points if you need accurate color specs on stuff. Something to think about since it's easy enough to adjust.
I would add Kasa switches for your lights (single pole, 3-way, motion detection). You would have access to all your switches via wifi. They also offer a doorbell camera. I would drop one at each entrance.
you could always sleeve your Romex where it runs on top of your 2x4 for protection. It doesn't have to be continuous from the source when you are just using some conduit to protect your wire. You aren't going to own that building forever Kyle and something may or may not happen! It's a minimum safety National Electrical Code standard for a reason, Kyle!
Before you place metal, I would suggest you bring your truck or another piece of heavy equipment in and do a complete peridoc maintenance (oil change, hydraulic fluid change, filters, lubrication, etc.) It will give you a better idea of any shadows or dark spots when working and if you need an extra light fixture in the area where you are maintaining your equipment (generators, lifts, tele-handler, etc. ) The fewer portable lights (and power cords) you need across the floor the better. (You can never have enough light.)
You may consider dropping a couple of (retractable) 20A power outlets from the ceiling between your working bays. I had two in my shop and used them more than any wall outlet when working on vehicles and equipment.
Granted, with all of the battery operated tools available today, the dropped outlets from the ceiling not be as critical. My compliments to you on the process. Well done.
Great idea! May want some lights around the edges of bigger equipment
Great tips!
Definitely put plugs and receptacles up for the lights. Makes it very easy to change if one goes out
Milwaukee Insulated staple gun. Game changer over the hand staples.
Check out Wago 221 lever nuts next time! For most every situation, they’re easier to use (and in my opinion safer) than wire nuts. Especially when working overhead, I’ll usually clip the ground of the fixture into a Wago and that’ll hold the fixture in place until the other conductors are completed. Check out Everyday Home Repairs for any concerns around load ratings and safety concerns. Shop is looking awesome! 🎉
NICE!!! I also did the lights in my shop in Romex before the ceiling steel went up, same as you. Looks so much more tidy than having conduit all over the ceiling! 4K lights in the shop are the best temperature I agree. No worries from the armchair electricians, you did great!
what you can add, at the side where the RV is, are some lower wall lights to illuminate the cargo bays,
and add some light to the back wall to get some "work" lights when you need to check engine stuff,
also adding a big curtain to divide the RV space from the rest of the shop would be awesome
That’s a thought
Great suggestions
@@Ty1on3twelve thanks !
@@RRBuildings thanks !
I'm not an electrician, I *am* DIYer, and I know traditional wire nuts are still widely popular, but especially with the rework you know you're going to be doing as the steel goes up, I'd really recommend the Wago "221" Lever Nuts instead..
At the shop we used pig tails wires and a plug to connect the lights. This makes it easier to connect and take it down if it needs to be removed.
I wouldn't worry too much about online electricians, Kyle! I'm a licensed electrician now and have been doing it for 12 going on 13 years, and one thing I've observed about people with a license is they are often wrong about things and don't like to admit it! Even when I show in the NEC code book that they are wrong about some of the things they say, they still are stubborn and won't admit they are wrong.
Personally, I think you do great work on your builds, especially your remodel work you sometimes throw in, and I know you probably received some good knowledge from the electricians you have used on your buildings.
That's the only thing I have to say, Kyle! oh, and at frame 0:38,, Greg is looking like Captain America the way he is standing in the background behind you lol! He really does! You should check out 0:38, and you'll see what I'm talking about hahaha
I'm sitting here watching you open a 12-2wg 250 NM and 12-3 coil of wire and doing some
nice long runs and not even complaining about the cost of copper wire. Amazing.
Do you remember the prices in the 80's-90's?
There can almost never be too much light in a shop. I was working in the Huckleberry RR shop when a new bay was added; Dennis wanted those sodium lights in the ceiling instead of the fluorescents that were in the rest of the shop. What a difference they made.
I concur with others about installing the air compressor outdoors or in a separate room for noise control and running a 1-inch airline in a complete loop around the building with drops every 10 to 15 feet with shutoff valves to each drop and possibly additional valves to be able to isolate part of the loop if the need arises. Consider adding an air drier if you are considering using air to paint with as painting needs dry air. Retractable power drops are a good way to keep extension cords off the floor. Installing a few extra circuits now will allow easier options later.
One addition that someone suggested is to have one or two lights stay on for safety and security when all of the other lights are turned off. I operated a laundromat for about 15 or 16 years and had one light fixture stay on for security; it was worth it.
Having critiqued the electrical work on this channel before, I’ll give it to you this time. Looks good and got yourself some quality looking lights! Even got the 3 way right the first time! Just make sure to install a grounding pigtail in each of those metal boxes when you go back and do the final wiring ;)
Most non-electricians don't understand the importance of grounding and bonding, so good call.
Imagine he’s sweaty,dirty, barefoot and wet from washing a car and he flips a switch that’s hot and not grounded 😮
Nothing like becoming one with a ground!!@@johnscott2076
Electrician for 20+ years now, noticed this right away. He did not ground any of his metal boxes. The metal boxes could become energized and never trip the breaker - VERY DANGEROUS!
@@johnscott2076good thing switches aren’t metal
I'm an electrician and I can say you guys did a good job. It's pretty much the same way I would have wired it myself and I've been doing electrical for 30 years. My dad has owned his own business since I was 3 years old. Started helping him on the job when I was around 7 year old.
Having backed a large RV into a garage in daylight, I strongly recommend lights along the wall so you can see in your camera and mirrors. With the ceiling lights alone your mirrors will be usesless until they are inside the door during daylight.
I love all your content. This has been one of my favorite builds to watch. Btw, that is a beautiful motor home.
One other thing you might consider lighting wise is 1 or 2 lights on a light sensor so that you shop is never 100% dark light a night light. My local farm supply sells some 300w equivalent LED's that only burn about ~20 watts.
Hey guys you can use wago lever connectors awesome product not sure if you have seen them.
that DJI action looks and sounds great in those lighting conditions, Great video as always Kyle
Your comment about inspections is spot on! In Maine, you have to have permits for just about everything. They require inspections of Electrical and Plumbing, but not much inspection for construction! Anyone can call themselves a "Contractor" in Maine... no license required! It's weird!
I've personally rewired several shops over the years, and unless the light requires a hard wire, I'm a big fan of using outlets. Makes it easier to swap to newer in the future.
great lighting, Kyle and a nice RV too
Nice job!!! Man, the thought process is amazing.!!!
The ASMR of the wiring squeezing between the framing and the SIGA layer… I can feel the success of the blower test.
Wow, dream shop is right. Killer work, lets see that RV!
2nd that !!!
Those light are amazing!
Definitely use the high bay type lights in the wood shop area and make it where you don't have to have them all on at once.
I'd use softer lights in the loft.
Have those same lights you put in the RV stall. In our shop. Absolutely love them. That's with a 24' peak
Wagos better than wire nuts
Plus the wiring in the zones should be a thing, even if you are never going to sell up and move
But it's good to see how you've done it and run it around the back of the wood
Looks great always impressed with the quality of your build, great stuff
Looks great. When I built my pole building, I had to run my electric in conduit if I was putting it on top of the purlins like you did. And they said it was for that exact reason you mentioned...😅
I have the same high bay lights in my shop that you used over the RV & I love them! It was a big change from used 4’ fluorescent light fixtures! RRHQ2.0 is looking sweet!
@4:00 lmao at Greg being the low-key MVP
I came up with an idea while watching this. If I think ahead a little bit, I could just grab a small palm router to put a channel on the back side of the girts that need one when running the wires. No need to take the board down to the ground and fight with the miter saw.
Looks awesome guys! Get yourself some of the Wacos when you do the final connection, it's so much faster. The whole system might even be brighter depending on what you do on the floor. I love all my Hyper-lights, I installed 24 in my ceiling, it looks like an operating room and is perfect for detailing cars! Take care and don't work too hard. By the way, very nice motor coach!
You don't want to get Wacos.
I think the light will work great, Kyle. Just with the 4 lights up, it gives a good idea how much light it will give the rest of the shop. Using what you already have to see how you like it is smart. It's your RRHQ, so the light only needs to be good for what you need, Kyle
You gotta give us a tour of the motorhome Kyle. That thing is sweet.
Very nice looking shop quality work
I know metal is harder to surface mount electrical but that is what I did in my woodshop I built a few years ago, main reason it's easier to add more later and no wires in the walls at all and seal is not broken for air to move.
If you do decide to install receptacles in the ceiling and willing to spend a few more dollars I would install twistlock plugs and recepts, at least in the high bays to reduce the chance of them becoming loose over time. That's what I would recommend to a customer but most customers don't have a lift.
No critique, but an idea. Put a box/setup in the middle for a Big Arse fan or large fan. Trust, you will want one and need one.
I would do dual receptacles and put plugs on the lights. That way you are a future owner can change out the lights easily. I would also do 6000K to me 4K is too yellow. Thanks Kyle!
I always give a thumps up before i watch the video, the lights look great👍😎
Your use of a drill (or anything not a hammer) as a hammer confirms you know electrical. 😀
Everything in the toolbox is a hammer except the flat screwdriver because it’s the chisel.
Suggestion: Before you close up the ceiling, install some cord reels on separate circuits down the center so you can plug things in without extension cords on the floor.
It’s code. 😊 your shop is coming along great. Definitely doing it right.
It must have been hurting Greg to watch you up there without a pouch with tools in it too! Kyle looks down and all of the sudden, there's his tool pouch extended to him on the end of one of those awesome Stabila levels hahaha
Good job on the electric,. If the RV is gonna be inside all winter, why not make the cieling a feature"", you normally use Black, Grey or White for Ceiling metal, how about finding a colour that will reflect Down onto the RV to make it stand out. Good Job Kyle & Greg!!.
Looks great Kyle, great work
the only thing I would caution you on is when you pull the wire through the "middle" of the stud is that you have 1and 1/4" clearance in both sides! those clearances are to avoid nails or screws being able to pierce the wire jacket and cause a potential short and fire in the future! That would be one safety tip on that. nail plates they sell for covering the places that don't have that 1-1/4" clearance on the face of a stud or the top plate where it comes down into the wall cavity, Kyle! Definitely a safety practice to follow my man. and where you have three and for wires coming down into a two gang box. they have stacker wire keepers to hold them to avoid them being too close to the face of your studs and plates. That's all I'll say
Nice bike on the back.
Canada has electrical inspections for rough in and final. You can run the wires but you have to have a licensed electrician hook it up to your panel.
Those look like hyper lights which is what I put in my barn, they work great and look good in RR 2.0... hyper lights come with a plug already on them so it's just a receptacle on the ceiling to plug them in ..
great work.
what kind of lights are they? and whats the output of each??
It's looking awesome! Nice job.
Lots great!! With LED's and their usage cost the more lights the better. Be creative with the fixture in the rest of the build -- so many new choices.
You may consider installing plugs for your lighting. If you need to change or add a light it will be easier. You could also up-grade the the wire to 12 awg this will make it possible to have 20amps available if you want to drop power to a work station without running it across the floor.
Well done Kyle! 😁👍🏼😁👍🏼
You may have already mentioned doing it in an earlier video and I dont remember. But if you're not already planning on it, the two large rectangle spaces in the truss for the upstairs would be a good place for a couple large windows and you could see down into the shop when upstairs.
If you’re planning on keeping your rv parked there, you may want to consider moving the lights closer to the walls so that when you’re beside your rv you’re not in its shadow. In other words, place the lights above the walkin area, not the rv.
When the walls go in there will be plenty of light reflected off of them.
Are you going to put outlets on the ceilings for drop down extension cords, with a power switch at floor level (to turn the outlet on).
For your wood shop, are you gonna put in a dust collector system? Have you considered a separate room for the dust collector (noisy things). Air compressor? With air lines around your shop. This way the noise is away from your shop area, keeping it more quiet. Are you gonna enclose the wood shop, dust sucks, especially if dust makes it to the middle shop area and RV. You should think about getting air filtration for the wood shop to keep the air clean.
220 volts for machinery around your shop (2-3 separate lines). Depends on the type of woodworking equipment you put in (table saw, bandsaw, sanders, jointers, thickness planers). Also for your middle floor Area and any type of machinery you use.
Welding machinery??
Also emergency shut off switches for power in the wood shop and in the middle shop (metal fabricating area).
Man RR done it again, I was about to do so many chores today……. now I’ll have to crack a few beers and watch this video. 👌🏻
At 9am? Approved. 🍻 (obviously this assumes some similar time zone, which it probably isn’t 😂)
@@raybiezeit's always noon somewhere 😂
@@raybieze ha ha no I’m in UK so it was about 2pm I think
Nice bus. I work at an rv repair shop. I have to work on those things every day. Hope yours isn't a POS like most out there.
Love the content. Keep it up.
I would suggest when you reinstall the light fixtures after the ceiling is up that rather than tying your fixture leads directly to the feed & fed lines you tie them together with a pigtail to attach to the fixture leads. This is code required in some jurisdictions and, while it may take a few more minutes to do this, it is, in my experience, makes for a better installation. And, when those "lifetime" LED fixtures turn out to have shorter lives than we have all been led to believe, you (or your son) will appreciate how much easier it is to change the fixtures. Kudos, though, on using all 12 gauge wire! Better to overbuild than underbuild - in all aspects.
You’re attempting to reference NEC 410.71. And that rule really only applies to fixtures with double ended lamps (tube style LEDs and fluorescents) that are designed to be serviceable. The rule also doesn’t state where the disconnect has to be. One can argue that the wall switch is satisfactory.
Best practice when discussing electrical requirements is to have knowledge of the code and be able to reference the articles you’re talking about. Otherwise you’re just stating your opinion on something that a professional can tell you don’t really understand. But hey, this is UA-cam, everyone is a pro.
@@wm79198 I am well aware the requirement is not code required in all applications, but it is required per a number of local codes and my comment was to that effect. Regardless, it is (in my opinion and apparently also in the opinions of a number of professionals in a number of jurisdictions around the country) a good and proper practice. On a related note, it is also my considered opinion based on a lifetime of experience that the cheap "residential" grade duplex outlets should actually carry the moniker, "residential firestarter" grade. As has always been the case, there is code and there is good professional practice and on many issues the latter is preferable to the prior.
If you make all your lights, a plug connector when one fails or if you decide to go another way, it should be a quick and easy uninstall install process .
Lights look great!!!!
Don't forget your 50A RV connection.
Definitely accomplished your goal looks fantastic
I think that these look amazing! My only thought is that the RV bay should have 3 rows of 3 lights instead of 2 rows. Only reason I'm thinking this is because when the RV is parked inside, how much of the light will be simply shining on top of it and not be broadcast out into the space (I hope this is making sense).
I'm no electrican or even an amateur, but from an ergonomic standpoint, the plugs you mentioned possibly putting in each box is exactly what I was thinking. But I'm not sure why you didn't just do it right then. It would be done. just plug the lights in, and when steel goes up, simply unplug and plug back in. No actual wiring involved. not to mention in the future if you decide on new lights (the vast majority are plug-in style these days), it's already done.
Definitely doing well with the 300k motorhome!
By a romantic stapler you'll love it and they make a flat mud ring Wor.
Ks great with steel
Very nice lights looks awesome 👌
Here in Texas we inspection's for every phase from foundation steel to finished roof insulation and plumbing electrical have to have a master license you can do it yourself which I've always done but they have to sign off on it the guys with the licenses anyways it's looking good man for me the layout for lighting along with the ceiling steel is a headache but I've never installed any steel except for galvanized roof didn't care for it
The lighting is kicking butt!
if possible how about for the high bay area if you can wire in a seperate switch for changing the 4k and 5k lighting for the lights, just in case you want more light you can change when you need it.
I'm interested in seeing the radiant heat in the floor being hooked up and finished. Kyle, is that all you plan to do for heat on the bottom floor is the floor radiant heat? Curious how the walls and ceiling are going to turn out on your new shop now that you have most of your lighting installed.
A combination of general lighting and special lighting will often be appropriate. For most types of work, the required values are 200 or 500 lux, while 1,000 or 1,500 lux are required for more light-demanding tasks. The requirements for illuminance are calculated based on people with normal vision. don't know if you work with lux as well
Any plans to add a "shore power" outlet for the RV? Would be super useful if you ever plan to use your RV as living/guest space while it's parked in your shop.
Already ran the wire!!!
I would have ran conduit because i like the look on metal walls/ceilings and can always add different stuff later. Regardless you did a good job wiring from what I've seen.
Definitely do cans with LED trims or led wafer lights in the lower ceiling and office. You can have more of them to have an even spread of light without bright spots
Looking good!
CONSIDER WAGO CONNECTERS...MAKES INSTALLATION MUST FASTER.
I love the overhead doors, now that you have lights in there, can you show what they look like from the outside at night? Curious how they look.
Nice
Beautiful
Work 👍
For the porch lights I would put in a switch and a photocell so that when the outside light gets to a certain level it comes on. The switch is to control the electricity.
@21:00 the plug option would make future upgrades much more straight forward and also open up unknow future options. and Replacements because of faluire on the fixture would be much more straight forward.
Run some conduit for future power needs. Even a pipe into the attic so you can pull some home runs in future needs.
Good idea
Consider caseta by lutron smart switches instead of hard-wired 3-ways. Saves a TON of time pulling wire. The M12 cable stapler is also amazing, even for just one job like this.
I would have put a thin rigid plastic plate over the nail plates before running the wires over them. There will a small amount of movement of the wires in use, creating the potential for abrasion of the outer and even the inner sleeving.
4,000 K lights are my personal preference to avoid eye strain. It seems to look good on screen too, and free is the best price
Did I miss it? I am looking to find what lights he used in this video, I'm building one soon and looking for lights for a 12' high machine shop and auto shop. Very nice work they are doing, I only hope in my lifetime I can see a shop like this. Thanks
Nice work....my old wood bother me with lights being different! Ha
4k is the way to go..🤩
motorhome? Thats a band tourbus!!!! Thing is massive.
Damn thing is an actual motorized HOME
Wish I could afford that. Not really. Big waste of money
amazing video guys. thank you
Having both 4k and 5k lights simulate sunlight to some degree. May be worth considering leaving a few of each in strategic points if you need accurate color specs on stuff. Something to think about since it's easy enough to adjust.
Nice RV bro!❤❤
Did you consider installing solar on workshop roof plus add battery storage and install heatpump for heating and cooling ????
Good morning Kyle. I'm #24 this morning in the 'Like This' column.
Good job!
I would add Kasa switches for your lights (single pole, 3-way, motion detection). You would have access to all your switches via wifi. They also offer a doorbell camera. I would drop one at each entrance.
Man.. I want your shop something bad!!! P.S. That RV... Very nice!!
you could always sleeve your Romex where it runs on top of your 2x4 for protection. It doesn't have to be continuous from the source when you are just using some conduit to protect your wire. You aren't going to own that building forever Kyle and something may or may not happen! It's a minimum safety National Electrical Code standard for a reason, Kyle!