Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and questions. I appreciate them (even though the volume is quite overwhelming). Just a few points to clarify… I didn’t say these new engines are not run at the factory. I know they are started and checked for leaks, etc…, but that is not breaking in the engine. Also, this car was built in Japan. I am not speculating that because it is a Toyota. I know it was built in Japan because all of the paperwork with the car said it was built in Japan. Also, the 0W-8 is an indication it was built in Japan because that is what Toyota recommends in Japan. Here in the US, 0W-8 was still not available when she got the car. I hope that clears up any confusion.
A HUGE debate online is the weight war. One debate in the VB WRX community is the 0w20 vs 5w30 crew. Subaru was recommending 0w20 when the 2022 WRX was released but now Im hearing they are switching back to 5w30. As you probably know Ford switched back to 5w30 from 0w20 a couple years ago. I do all my own oil changes and I changed mine out (2022 WRX) at 1k miles with 5w30.
@@chrischarles9218 for Mustang Coyote 5.0L V8, Ford specifies from 5w20 all the way to 5w50 for "track" use. So it's easy to get the point. IIRC, there is a video here that describes the relation of engine oil operating temperature and viscosity. Modern cars lacking oil temp gauge (apart maybe from a few VW/Audi TSI cars) makes this whole thing even more frustrating.
@@xynostasos9022 I was actually referring to their Eco Boost engines as Ford found out 0w20 was a little light for a turbo vehicle. Oh Im happy to say my 2022 wrx does come with an oil temp gauge.
I bought a new 2005 Camry 2.4. The dealer had some gimmick of "the first one is on us" oil change at 3500 miles. I asked about the 500 - 700 mile "break-in" oil change. They told me that was "old fashioned technology." I changed the oil myself at 700 miles and when I held my trouble light over the 700 mile oil in the drain pan...there were millions of tiny metal particles floating in the oil. I felt good about getting rid of all that metal at an early life of the engine. I owned the car for 15 years and racked up 218,000 miles before I sold it. The engine ran like it was "brand new" for all those miles. Fast forward to 2020...I bought a new Camry 2.5. I did the same thing but, this time I didn't see millions of metal particles in the oil. Still...I felt good about that first oil change. I totally agree with the first early oil change. BTW...while purchasing my new 2020 Camry the financing clown told me they break in the engines at the factory. I knew it was total bullshit because...how can they have the time and resources to break in millions of engines at the engine factory? Many of these dealership clowns will lie to anyone about anything...even their own mother!
It would be impractically impossible to break in all those engines. They'd need to actually drive the cars for the break-in period. Even if they were able to run the engines for all those hours, it's not the same as the engines being under load.
Absolutely. In my experience the financing person is the least trustworthy person in that building. They will willfully and knowingly lie to you for their benefit and to your detriment, dig in further when presented with evidence that contradicts them, and have no qualms about any of it whatsoever.
I’ve been saying that about modifications for years. Yes the engineers are smarter than me. They are constrained by different rules and have to please a wider variety of people. I only have to please me.
@@wagz_madness Engineers often have to deal with the accountants. $0.02 I'm production cost is far more important than having to drop the entire drivetrain out of the car to do timing belts every 30,000 mi.
Absolutely. The dealers k ow most engines will last past the warranty and have most of its problems after it has expired. Most people want their motor to last.
I just got a new Ford Maverick (Fx4 and tow package). The dealership did not tell me about break-in. When reading the owners manual I found that a 1,000 mile break-in period with a mix of highway and in-town driving is recommended before off-roading, towing, or "aggressive driving".
I really hope you did some research on the engine in those before buying one. I can’t understand why people keep buying the (newer) Ford products with all of the content provided out there on the tremendous issues they are having. Pray you don’t have the engine with an oil soaked timing belt turning the oil pump. Steel vs Rubber wins every time. You could change the oil every 1000 miles and it won’t matter as in time and from what I’ve seen as early as 20k miles the belt is shredding itself and clogging up the oil pick up tube and you know the rest of that story. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 another round of applause to Ford for taking the cheap route.
@@chrisurban2866 I think we all hope that our cars are reliable when we purchase them. Engine problems in mid-size and small pickups seems to be common to many manufactureres right now (Toyota, Nissan, GM, and Ford) Wasn't into the Santa Cruz or the Jeep Patriot. Apparently there is a company called Ineos making a mid-size pickup for North America, but I don't know anything about them and was not willing to get a truck I may have trouble getting serviced later if I moved away from their HQ. Thos are all the mid-size and compact pickups I compared. It seems that if you are looking for a reputation of reliability for modern builds, there are no real options.
I've always done my first oil change at 500 mile, 1000 miles and then 3000 miles from then on. I've never had an oil related failure in 30 years! This man is spot on with the information he is giving.
I have a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine where I deliberately have never changed the oil...for 30 years so far. I just tip more in when needed, and it's still going just fine😂 I don't do the same with my car, but on modern synthetics 10k miles is fine between changes. I've never had an engine failure in over 50 years either. Modern engines are built to far closer tolerances, so running in is less crucial, but I think it's still important to go steady on an engine in its early days. Changing the filter is as important as anything.
@@timhancock6626 the key thing you're missing is direct injection which causes more fuel to get into the oil (fuel dilution is the term). This lowers the viscosity of your oil and leads to it needing to be changed sooner. Turbocharging a direct injected motor further increases the need by cooking your oil at higher temperatures. On these motors, change at 5K miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.
Every car/gun/machine, no matter how fine made, needs some kind of break in which means to be used with a reasonable care and maintenance at the early stages. Needless to say, a proper maintenance in its whole life cycle, too. Thanks for your scientifically proven tests.
Nothing fake about Lake. He’s the real deal. I know some of the people he hangs with and they study motor oil inside and out. Get them all together and it’s a group of mad scientist creating something no one knew.
I took you advice. Went and changed my oil today at 700 miles. I just bought my 2024 tundra 2 weeks ago. The dealership looked at me like I'm crazy when I asked for an oil change. I also asked for an oil sample. Explaining to them its a new engine. It's breaking in. There will be micro metal particulate in the oil. Long story short. After they changed the oil and inspected the sample of the first 600 miles oil. They found that I was right and gave me a huge discount on that oil change. Anyways I'm glad I changed the oil. Cause regardless of what any manufacturer says I think a new engine needs that 600 miles oil change.
When I rebuild an engine, I let it run at a fast idle for an hour with SAE 10W, drain that and drive the car at fairly low speeds for 500 miles with SAE 10W or 20W depending on time of year, drive at moderate varying speeds, drain that at 1,000 miles, fill with SAE 20@ and drive at moderate varying speeds for the next 1,000 miles, then go to my usually 2,000 mile oil changes. In summer, SAE 30, in winter here in Northern Cal where it doesn't get very cold, SAE 20W. I change the filter at each of these changes. Many say overkill, but I have never had a lubrication-related failure and routinely got well over 100,000 miles on what would now be considered very poor quality oil, so I must have done something right.
1. How much does the testing & analysis of engine oil COST the typical car owner, in addition to all the oil changes being done? 2. When you substitute a lighter weight oil than the ones recommended by the factory, aren’t you doing things that could invalidate your factory warranty?
@@creiganderson You sure are! They will say that your poor choice is the reason for your problem, even if it isn't, knowing that you have no way to prove them wrong without spending thousands.
@@jamesbosworth4191 100,000 out of a modern car is the expected if you don’t ignore basic oil changes. That’s not really a testament to anything. Comment when you have 200-400k and we’ll be impressed that you’re not wasting time with a 2000 mile interval. Maybe you don’t drive often and are changing it because of time which makes sense.
Thanks to you I changed the oil in both my new vehicles at 700 and 1700 miles. It is a great piece of mind knowing its been changed twice before the 5000 miles "first change".
Same here. On our reconditioned turbo diesel I changed the run in oil at 400 kms, then again at 1500 klms. On the 5000 klms I started using Full Synthetic.
@joeblow-xy3oz Oil is cheap, Motors are not. 50 bucks is a small price to pay, especially considering the source wants to sell you cars. Have you seen what oil looks like after the recommend 10k miles? I'll believe my lyin' eyes.
Thanks, Lake! Love the science based look at oil instead of all the speculation based info on UA-cam and the web. As been said below, keep up the oil myth busting videos!
Have always believed in break in. Brother bought a brand new Jeep Wrangler in 1993. Drove it home 100 miles and changed the oil. Changed it again at about 1000 miles or so, and then normal after that. Engine lasted forever. Also changed the diff and trans (manual) fluids at 1000 miles with quality synthetic. Really liked that Jeep, and ran surprisingly well for a 4.0, 5 speed and 3.55 limited slip.
My son just bought a new Mazda CX30 and I was hesitant about changing the oil before 1,000 miles because it is new technology and I am old school, so I changed it. Based on your video... I think I made the right decision.
I get to pick up my RAV4 edge on Thursday. Because of your and the car care nut I’ve decided to properly run in the whole vehicle. Have bought two oil test kits I intend to do my first change at 500km second at 1500km third at 7000km then I will take it to Toyota for their first service at 1500 km. Will test at every change.
I’m in the group engine oil and lubrication tech on fb with you and Bryce. Love seeing yalls comments and information. Also greatly appreciate you making this channel to stop a lot of misinformation from these wannabe UA-cam experts.
I grew up working with my stepdad who had a machine shop and was a very good engine builder. He was always very strict about engine break in. When I started rebuilding engines for my own vehicles, I did the first oil change at 100 miles, the next one 500 miles, then another at 1,000 miles. Then every 3,000 after that. Some might consider that overkill, but there are a lot of contaminates during break in.
@@Alex-gx5mb Not exactly: Those very "modern" engines have much closer tolerances... so those require thinner viscosity oils, especially for their VVT or variable valve timing mechanisms. BUT, their cylinder walls are machined exactly like previous engines, and undergo the same cylinder wall and piston ring mating (Break-in) process, and require the same metal particle elimination at initial oil changes scheme.
Yes - 100 miles and throw away the cam lube, larger metal shavings and any machining residues from your "clean" rebuild. Put magnets on your oil filter to collect more iron.
Great Video, thank you for the content! A good friend of mine decieded around 8 years ago to sign a contract to work as an professional soldier for the swiss army. (In switzerland we have mandatory army service for at least 270 days. During this time we get trained by the professional „soldiers“). When he started his new job he and his 20 classmates recieved all together the exact same model of car with an 1.5 liter diesel engine and manual transmission. My friend told me that he was the only one reading the manual about how to treat the car during break in. So he broke the car in and never had any issues with the engine. Most other classmates just drove the car from the beginnin „normal“ or even quite agressiv. After 1 year some classmates said that they had to top of the oil between changing intervalls. My friend drove his car truble free without oil consumption for 4 years and 180‘000km (110‘000 miles) until he recieved a new car. I don‘t have exact data, but the opinion that it is necessary to brake in an ICE engine with an early oil change and to drive it as described in the owner manual.
Finally, finally, someone who actually knows something. I have been asked that same as I am a Techical Advisor in an engineering company, I have worked for a CAT dealer 40 years ago, and dealt with their SOS oil testing, and heard countless of times that modern engines do not need a break-in with an early oil and filter service. Here in Finland we have harsh weather that harms oil faster, and modern engines have so little piston ring tension that they use oil a lot if anything is wrong. So, as I remember aero piston engines having spesific oil for break in, and instructions how to break in the piston rings with enough intermittent power settings, it would be impossible to have them seated properly at factory, even if the boring and honing were made with stress plates. Thank You sir.
I absolutely love watching your videos. Incidentally they really do help out when I tell the missus we're using a certain type of oil in the car and why. Despite being an ASE tech she usually won't listen to my own experience so I just bring up the people I know are experts in their fields and show them to her.
Love the information you provide. I have bought a new vehicle since 1998 ! But i did always change my oil at 1k miles and then again at 2k miles. I had 3 New Dodge Ram trucks go 300k plus miles. 1983,1991 and 1999. I also changed the transmission , diffsand transfer case oils at 1k and 2 k miles.
Great information with actual scientific analysis. Next question though is what about lifetime fluids? I have had Toyotas and others and never changed the transmission fluid as they say it is a lifetime fluid and had no issues until the 180k mark when I got rid of it, but am still curious on the matter. Older mechanics will say change it regardless, newer mechanics say never touch it depending who you talk to. Also waterless coolant or lifetime coolant that Toyotas uses etc. Curious on the analysis of this.
That crazy guy Scotty says lifetime of those oils is the warranty period. He claimed that he argued with someone from some company and said he was gonna test the oil and they back tracked and said they’d change it
The car care nut explains the ATF very well. He wants you to change it every 60k I believe. Unless it's never been changed. Then don't touch it say, around 100k. He says he's seen more damage or trouble after a change. Weird I know. But check him out here on the YT
When I bought my 2022 Tacoma I brought my truck back at 1000 miles for an oil change and the service advisor said engines don't have to be broken in and more like 50 yrs ago. I told I'm old school (56 yes old.) and to do it anyway. I'm glad I did because this truck gets a lot of highway driving and an oil change every 5000 miles. Thanks for breaking the myth.
The dealer only cares about the warranty period. VW dropped it's warranty from 7 years to 4 years or 50,000 miles in 2021. You could probably run kerosene in your crankcase and make it through the warranty period.
I purchased a '24 Corolla LE hybrid in October soon after your Corolla video. I changed my oil at 1000 miles figuring since it runs in EV mode about half of the total run time, the engine really only has 500 miles on it. I noticed that Toyota is not spec'ing 0W8 anymore in the Corolla. The owner's manual and underhood sticker both said 0W16. Great videos!
Keep in mind lower weight oils have less weight, meaning the engine has to work less giving better mpg and power. However the wear is accelerated. I would recommend a higher weight oil if you want your car to last the longest.
Funny youtube recommends this to me now, I just changed the oil at 500 miles on my wife's new Mazda; it was very dark oil for that few miles, we'll see at 1500 but I'm guessing it will look a bit clearer, now you've given the science as to why.
My lady got lifetime oil changes from the Kia Dealership here in Vegas and 3 months in they call for first oil change.I think and suspect they know about the oil issues Kia has.I still pop in a bottle of Fuel Cleaner before that next change and she goes to California to see her mom.By the time she gets back oil change.Great Video,I saw the name and I'm like where do I know it,yup your dad 😂clicked like and subscribe i shall
I totally agree with you it is amazing how much material comes out of the first oil change when you do it quickly I would never wait a long time on the first oil change. You can see all the particles in the oil when you shine a bright light on the oil like a bright LED flashlight. It doesn’t matter what it is a car motorcycle lawnmower change the oil quickly on the first oil change.
@@themotoroilgeek I know what you mean it’s absolutely crazy how much material is in the oil pan that the filter does not catch. I am a machinist and mechanic by trade so I understand how things need to break in but it is still quite surprising how much material wears off the parts during break in. But after a few thousand miles it all settles down. I change my oil multiple times during this period to give my engine the best chance possible oil is cheap. None of my cars burn any oil and all run perfectly I think it is a worthwhile step to do when the car is new. For instance I just took a 4000 mile trip to Florida and back and did not burn a drop of oil in my V-8 tundra. By the way I love watching your channel keep up the great work I learn a lot.
We bought a 2024 Subaru Outback and they told me multiple times, no break in, 1st oil change at 10k. The manual showed inside 6k. I was suspicious and found you. So, after watching your video of changing the oil on your daughters Toy, I changed the oil on this Subbie at 700, 1200, and will again at 3k, before taking it to the dealer for their first 6k free oil change. I really appreciate you doing these vids. Big help. We are that weird type that only buys when the former is used up. I still have her '97 Cherokee, and '07 Sedona. My '00 Merc Grand Marquis land yacht still hums like new at 240k.
Company I work for bought new Ford Transit van. No break in, first and every oil change is at 25 000 miles interval says owners manual. Van was bought in Germany and it's start of life was max. speed on German autobahn straight from dealer showroom because it was empty. In it's first 20 miles on odometer it already clocked it's max. speed and max. governed revs 😂 Sad life of company owned fleet vehicles..
at 9:15 when he said "IT'S SCIENCE NOT SPECULATION." I felt that! Channels like this is why I'm consistently watching different videos of the same topic. . . too much speculation and not a whole lot of science. Love this.
@@themotoroilgeek It would be really cool to see a video on different types of oil brands and how they affect the engine you're testing them on. Chart the results to show how the oil impacts the engine components and the long-term effects. This way, if someone wants to focus on speed, they can choose a specific oil, and if someone wants fuel economy, they can choose another. I really liked the video you did on Valvoline; it made me realize I need to start taking preventative measures with my 2011 Nissan Rogue since it's starting to push 120k miles. One brand's oil affects the engine in a certain way, while another brand affects it differently. I think non-car people (like myself) tend to get lost in what is best, but as you put it, the best for you may not be the best for me. I'm definitely looking forward to more of your videos.
Excellent!!!!!;; My dad was a mechical engineer in the early days of the US aerospace programs...... He always said...facts 1st probabilities 2nd... Too many people base their decisions on PR docs versus science
Just bought a brand new Outback. Have another Outback with 95K miles. I bought into the “lifetime fluid” BS on the transmission and now I know I am an idiot. Very important to realize that the car owner and the car manufacturer have very different goals. I’ll change the new car religiously on oil at 5K and the transmission at 10K and then every 30K. Live and learn. Great channel. Just subbed.
We used to change ATF every time we did the brakes. If it never gets sludge and grime building up in it, changing it won't knock much, if anything loose. Now, they are "never have to change it". Yeah.. about that... ;)
Would like to see some analysis on how much wear there is in an engine based on the oil analysis. Like if there is a high amount of wear metals in your oil, what's the actual consequence of that and how big of a consequence is it. I see the oil analysis numbers and understand the trends, I just don't have the context for the impact on the engine
In the owners manual it states the break-in period. Every car I've owned and family members cars all stated that. There were discrepancies between brands/engines but they all were fairly similar. ~500 miles was the typical break-in period and some stated to drive a certain way. Non however stated to change the oil early. We have always done the first oil change at 1k miles for new cars. Additionally, we've always used the heavier weight optional oil. As an example spec is 0w20, however 5w20 can substitute according to the manufacturer. So on so forth for the other cars. It's not cold in my regain so there's no reason to use the ultra thin oil.
I just bought a 2024 accord. When I asked about the break in period they said no need to break it in and change the oil at the recommend interval 7500. Seemed like BS to me. Your test proves that the engines are not broken in and that the filter is not removing all the junk from the break in. I will be definitely change the oil at < 1000. Thanks so much!
Through the magick of interweb, let me express my THANKS for your videos and approach in general. I've got to admit I found you, Lake, when looking for some updated deepdive into LSPI (found a vid from AERA) and then followed you to Motor Oil Geek, looking for exactly this type of content. Kudos!
We bought 2023 Toyota Sienna new 12 months ago. 2-3k miles in I checked the oil and found deposits on the dip stick. I immediately had it changed at the dealership. Service writer asked why and seemed to have no knowledge of other people reporting any issues. Many don't check their oil on new vehicles thinking all is well. You were wise to change yours early. Wish I had mine done at 500 or 1k miles too.
I change my oil sooner than the owner's manual recommends, but like most Toyota owners living in the rustbelt, the frame will fail long before my motor will.
Yep. If you live in such an area, buy in the summer, and immediately take it to a place that does coatings and get the entire frame shot with bedliner or that thick black undercoating stuff they used to use on cars from Europe. If the thing is sealed and water-tight, then all the salt in the world won't matter. The issue is new cars and trucks are shipping with just a coat of paint to protect them, and often the bolts and so on aren't even painted. So guess where the rust starts and then some flimsy paint won't stop it at that point.
I remember many decades ago there were companies like Rusty Jones and others that would undercoat your car. I don't know if similar companies are around or not to do that type of undercoating
This is truly wonderful! I am one of those people that, if I get a brand new car or I'm breaking in a rebuilt engine, I will do a 3000 mile break-in process (500 mile, 1000 mile, 1500 mile) with break-in oil specifically. It has proven to me as being the proper way to break-in an engine for the sake of longevity. Like you detailed, the wear in metals do change during that initial break-in period. This also helps to limit piston ring early wear/degradation. Thank you for this!
Every new car I've purchased over the past 40 years says to essentially "take it easy for the first 1,000 miles and keep the speed and engine rpm's low", to allow the engine to break-in. Honda even used to say not to drive at a constant speed for a long period of time. Over time those warnings have disappeared, or moved to the fine print. I think most people with a technical mindset would understand that makes perfect sense. And change your oil often!! Great video. Glad to see the FACTS.
It doesn't make "perfect sense" to me. The key thing you are "breaking in" are the piston rings; they're meant to be abraded by the hone on the cylinder walls, so they'll become a matched set. This is why you regularly see little/no bearing wear on high-mileage engines despite fact they consume oil. So if getting the rings seated is the key goal of break-in - should that be done by gentle, easy driving? I'd argue it shouldn't. It's not just the outward springiness of the rings that forces them into the cylinders - it's combustion pressure acting against the back side of the ring forcing it outward. Thus, to generate some good force to press those rings into the cylinder, you need high combustion pressure - which mean lots of throttle. Not necessarily high rpm, but high throttle - which implies high torque. My break-in advice (which is worth exactly what you paid for it): Warm up the new engine, ensure no leaks or problems. Manually select a medium gear - 3rd or 4th works well. Get rolling around 1500rpm. Floor it (don't let an automatic downshift), allow rpm to climb 1000rpm or so. Release throttle and engine brake back to initial rpm. Floor it again, allow rpm to climb 2000rpm. Release throttle and engine brake back to initial rpm. Repeat process until you've hit redline a couple times. Bring her home and change the oil. Done.
@@GroovesAndLands100% agree. Seat the rings and also heat cycles. Most motors that are compression tested after a few years, the best measurements come off motors people would consider "abused" at the start. Changing oil is a must. Most new oil filters weigh a ton after a ring break in. Even the second filter.
@@mr2_mike I used to do endurance tests on the dyno for GM. Several laps of rpm vs time and throttle position vs time data from the factory stock racecar running @ Virginia International Raceway were uploaded into the dyno and the engine was put on test for 72 hours non-stop. Basically the engine sounded like a racecar out on the track. Anyway, we were measuring everything. Both the LS2 and LS3 engines would make MORE power, MORE torque, LESS blowby and LESS crankcase pressure as the test progressed. Literally, throughout the entire test, the engine was getting better the whole time.
Thank you! I went from a 7,500k oil-changes, to a 5,000k oil-changes!! "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive".---Scotty Kilmer. Now I have two automotive heroes in UA-cam! Oh, and BTW, I only use Purolator filters!
You should have a video on start stop and cylinder deactivation. Glad I watch your video. My 2023 Ridgeline has 800 miles. There's no way I was going to go 10k on a oil change. But now I will change it before 1k miles.
If you find yourself stationary for a longer period of time, the system is designed to start the engine automatically before lubricant temperatures drop too dramatically. I know people get worried about engine damage with the start/stop but most mfg's have taken into consideration the impacts on the engine.
When I bought a new truck back in 2015, I took it in to get the oil changed at the dealership at 3,000 miles and they almost wouldn’t change it because the light wasn’t on. I had to argue with them about wanting my oil changed in my truck. I had to tell them “fine, I can go pay someone else to change my oil if you don’t want my money.”. They changed my oil after that with no more questions. Also, I kept changing the oil regularly around 3,000 miles and now have almost 200,000 miles on it and it is still running great.
Super informative and data-backed, which I really appreciate (as opposed to all the conjecture and opinionated pseudo-experts out there). I was wondering about this, and actually asked my new car dealer about any break-in procedure, to which I was told it wasn't necessary. I was dubious, and I'm glad I came across your video. I'll be getting my oil changed next week as a result. Keep up the great work!
My wife & I bought a new Japan built Toyota RAV4 Limited Hybrid this summer. I've been a huge proponent of early and frequent oil changes. I changed the oil in our new RAV @ just under 1,500 miles and then again last week @ 4,930 miles. I didn't send oil in for an analysis, but I'm sure if I had, the results would have been very similar to the oil in your daughter's car. I subscribed to your channel after watching your first video of this vehicle and will continue watching. I'd be interested in your ideas of running higher viscosity oil in these new engines. Our RAV4 calls for 0W16, but I wonder if 0W20 would be better. Either way I'll be sticking with 5,000 mile oil changes just like I have in all of our vehicles in the past 20 years.
Hi Lake, I'm gonna tell certain people about this video so they will quit tellin me I'm wasting money and good oil. I have been doing what you're doing all my life, I don't think I know everything even though I am a retired Auto Mechanic (tech) after 50+ yrs. This field is evolving daily and you will not ever know everything, but I do have a clue as to whats going on! Automatic transmission I do the same thing Everything wears in and you have to get rid of the wear materials, but I still got to butt heads with some people! Thanks Lake for all you do!!👍👍👍👍
As an automotive engineer with a background in tribology (I even have presented at a few STLE conferences), I can say I truly appreciate the oil and engine related content you put out. You cover the minute details in pedestrian language that is easy for everyone to understand. It's nice to be able to refer friends and family to a well made video than to try to cover the details in conversation. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to share your knowledge on UA-cam!
Thanks for letting us know your credentials: You’re now one of my more trusted car guys. New subscriber! Just bought a new car and already made my appointment with the dealer to change oil at 750 miles. Somebody posted to your video mark to the oil filter. Yep. 👍
I grew up around cars, my dad had a small Fiat dealership in the late 70s then a small Mazda dealership in the 80s when I was a kid. Back then, everyone knew that engine break-in was a thing and buyers were instructed to watch their driving at first and come back for an early oil change, it was just something you’d do with a new car. In the early 2000s I was a new car salesman, I sold Saturn, Saab, Isuzu, then Volkswagen. The majority of new car were leased. I’ve attended manufacturers trainings and asked them all what the break-in period was. All of them said there was no break-in period anymore, that was a thing of the past, modern engines were machined better, used better metallurgy and were broken in on test beds at the factory before being installed in cars on the assembly line. I always suggested to my customer to drive easy at varying RPMs the first 300 km and not go over 3,000 RPMs the first 1,000 km, then follow the manufacturer’s recommended schedule for oil changes as the first couple of oil changes were free. I did that too with my own new cars, but knowing what I know now thanks to this channel, I’d change it earlier and even more regularly. My last non-turbo 2.0L Volkswagen started burning oil quite early.
My older JD mower with a brigs engine said 8 hour break in oil change. Newer JD mower with Kawasaki engine said no break in, run it like normal for 100 hours and don’t change the filter till 200… Needless to say I changed it early and do a filter swap with each oil change.
@@leonkloonsner Whoa I never knew that. I had two cars with this engine from new. The first one, a 1999 New Beetle, overheated and was repaired under warranty, I forget what the issue was, the car was leased. The second car was a 2002 Golf GLS I bought new and kept for 13 years and about 220,000 km. It had a rough idle since new and burned quite a bit of oil, but I checked often and topped it up when needed, it was still going strong when I got rid of the car.
Oddly enough the last four vehicles I bought all still say in the manual to not push the engine hard during the first 1500km (I’m Canadian) and to vary rpm, and still talk about the break in period. Those are 04 Corolla, ‘08 Camry Hybrid, ‘13 RAV4 and 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid for reference. The Maverick manual even says it comes with break in oil from the factory. The day I listen to the salesmen or service advisor at the dealership for advice on this is the day I stop caring if my vehicle survives past the warranty.
Most new motorcycles still have a break in service. Usually around 500-600 miles. Mostly involves an oil change and checking torques on key nuts and bolts. But, as stated, most new motorcycles are still purchased and not leased. And a lot of motorcycle riders care more about maintenance than many car buyers. Some modern bikes also have an rpm limiter that isn’t lifted until the break in service is completed and cleared in the maintenance minder system.
Most bikes also have a pretty short warranty. And sadly a bunch don't even make it to first oil change. I worked at a dealer for 3 months as a tech, 5 bikes came back totaled with dealer tags still on them. Most junk in a bikes oil is from the clutch too. Rings are seated from the factory though.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Yes, it might not short term, but it will. Like if you are in the middle of nowhere and low on oil anything is better than nothing, but it's best to stick with a JASO MA/MA2 oil for the clutch. Shell rotella t4 and t6 are JASO rated and available pretty cheap almost everywhere. Might not be the best, but my triumph tiger 800 made itto 110k miles before I sold it with that oil.
@@gregorymalchuk272 Can’t speak to the specifics of how automotive oil interacts with a wet clutch, but best to use a motorcycle specific oil (for wet clutch applications). JASO MA (several different specs). The bike manufacturers generally have branded oils. Mobil 1 has a couple that are usually available at Walmart. I prefer Motul motorcycle oils.
Thanks for your content. I just bought a new 2024 Equinox last month. It's at 390 miles. I will be changing the oil and filter around 500 miles, as I did with my 2016 Equinox and my 2004 Harley-Davidson. When I traded in the 2016 Equinox at 67,000 miles, I never had to add oil in between oil changes. Same with my Harley at almost 80,000 miles.
@hid3nax were you born yesterday? That's how it's been for decades 2024 model cars come out around late summer early fall of 2023 just like how it's been for decades. So when you got a 2016 car it's actually manufactured in 2015
@hid3nax it's not a year older car it's a current car. 24 can either be a 2023 or a 2024, depending on the time you bought it. Their's no confusion it's been like this since the 70s or even before.
I’m not sure about other manufacturers but GM states in the owners manual that the engine needs to go through a break in period and recommends not to drive at single speed for long periods (cruise control) etc. although, they don’t recommend an altered only oil change interval. As the owner of your vehicle I think it’s really up to you to do your own research and be informed on your vehicle. If you’re not sure I would error on the side of caution and change the oil sooner rather than later
I used a little bit of varying cruise control during the first 500mi's of my new 2024 Colorado and now I am paranoid that I did it wrong. Only used it for about 200 miles and the RPMS / speeds were changing.
Thank you for taking your free time to inform us laymen! I hate when people complain about things that wouldn't hurt anything. Even if the engine was broken in, it wouldn't HURT anything changing it once at 1k... I change my oil at 5k, my mower every 20 hours. Oil is cheap! Engine are not.
On my last deployment in 2009 i spent 14k on a fully built 2 valve for my 1998 mustang. Everything under the hood was new. I did conventional oil and filter at 50, 100, 250, 500, amd 1k. Then i switched to royal purple. I even had my rev liniter turned down to 3500 with spark being the cut off. I can say every oil change up to the 250 had a little metal in it. After that i could go 4k miles, and the oil was still purple. Man miss that car. Even whem i got my 2004 nissan titan April 4th of that year i wemt easy untill 1k milea. Changed the oil at 100, 250, 500, and 1k them to syn.
I was confident that manufacturers were not breaking in engines, but I figured that cleaner and closer manufacturing techniques might eliminate the need for older break in procedures. NOT SO! Thanksfor the facts. I wish zip had known this a few months ago when zip bought a new truck. You did good doing this with a Toyota. They are very highly trusted by U.S. drivers, who might not trust a similar test on a domestic vehicle! Well done!
Thank you very much for the very clear and concise explanation. So far you are the only person who actually explained why there’s disconnect between manufactures’ and mechanics’ oil change recommendations. Cheers!
Good info Lake. I'll have to look to see when I changed my oil for the first time in my new 2010 Chevy. I still own it. I had used Mobil 1 for the first 150K miles or so. Then I did a Amsoil and then to Pennzoil Platinum. I used to go by the oil life monitor. Those were usually 6 to 7K miles but as we've seen on DI engines oil needs to be changed more often. I'm now doing 4K miles on the Pennzoil Platinum. I'm at 174K miles and it doesn't eat oil so I'm happy about that.
When i changed the oil on my 2020 F150 3.5 at 2000 miles i sent it in to Blackstone Labs. Good thing I did. Second oil change at 4200 miles showed a big difference. Good idea to change early.
I own a 2023 Prius and I also did my first oil change at 725 miles. I am following The Motor Oil Geek's footsteps because I want to drive it until the wheels fall off.
Thank you for all the incredible information and effort you put into these videos! I have a question I hope you can answer: I'll be getting a new replacement engine in my car shortly, and I'm wondering whether I should get a specific break-in oil to replace the factory fill as soon as I get it, or will changing out the factory oil after 500 miles be sufficient? Its a gasoline direct injection, naturally aspirated, and specifies 5W-20. What oil should I get for break in? The only specifically break-in oil I can find is Amsoil's sae30. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Thanks for the kind words and generous gift. Use the Driven BR30 for breaking-in your engine. Check out the Total Seal channel for some videos on how to do the break-in.
I just drain the oil at about 1000 km on every new vehicle i buy just to get rid of any contaminates that may have entered the engine during assembly . I think break in oil was a thing 50 years ago. In my diesels i would run Dino oil for the first year just to guarantee good break in as i put a half million kms on my work trucks . I would switch to a high quality full synthetic after a year. Petro Canada Duron UHP 10w40 was my go to.Love your content , im a oil geek too lol
wow im so glad you post this video, thank 😊 🙏 I'm going to change my oil this weekend for my 2023 tacoma I'm call the dealer to request for the oil change at 3500 miles they said wait until 10k 😢.
As someone who has built engines both professionally and privately I know that a new engine will generally be made with tight tolerances in many areas. An engine is made of 100s of parts and these parts will suddenly be expected to move on bearing surfaces at varying temperatures at speed. I always run a brand new engine very gently statically to start. Then check tolerances and change the oil. And I will get particles. I then drive gently at operating temperature retorque and change the oil again. And then check carefully during service. Result is perfect compression and combustion. But I do know many manufacturers are not this fussy. Oil is cheap
This is a pretty confusing issue to me. I hope my version of clarification is correct. In my new LX 600, I did the first oil change at 500 miles and at 5k since then. The dealership thought I'd lost my mind, but I feel better now, although I didn't send it off for analysis. Great channel and explanation based on facts and science, I just sent it to my wife as she too thought I was "OCD." Thanks for the vindication, Mr. Lake.
Thanks Mate. Another great video backed by science, not just peoples opinions. I'll be changing the oil and filter in my new Subaru Outback Xt at about 1500klms.
Thanks Lake, this is most interesting. I'm glad to see that my choice in doing several early, starting at 300 miles, oil changes on my 370Z was a good thing to do. My hunch was that in using the specially formulated oil, Nissan ester oil for its very low friction, as recommended by Nissan would result in a prolonged break in period. This seemed to be confirmed by the progressively decreasing amounts of oil consumption between oil changes over the first 15k miles. I think that limiting acceleration and revs over the first 5k miles also contributed to the slow breakin. I think this was a good thing to do for achieving maximum longevity, along with using short oil change intervals. I plan on doing some used oil analyses on different oils at different oil change intervals to see what will work well. The Nissan ester oil has problems in coping with the high thermal and mechanical stresses generated by the engine's variable valve timing machinery. The oil basically shears down from a 5W-30 to something like a 5W-20 after about 3k miles, hence my 3k oil change interval. I've been using the Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter ever since the OEM Nissan filter that came on the car. I'm using a 50% taller filter that was designed for larger engines for the increased filtration area and reduced pressure drop, to compensate for the fact that the filter is more restrictive because of its denser filtration material. Keep up the good work. I've loved your work with Total Seal and all the information you've given us.
Back in 2004 a German automotive technician told me when you first buy a Mercedes or any other car the breaking process is somewhere between 3000 to 5000 miles that first oil change but he also told me when you first buy a car read the tachometer on your vehicle and try not to rev over 3000 RPMs. he said it gives that engine oil enough time to lubricate the engine well.
As a German auto specialist myself, most of them indicate right in your owner's manual to adhere to a break-in period. That said, they do a preliminary break-in at the plant. At least, VW did. Who I was employed by for almost a decade.
@@LynxStarAuto i remembered watching a video where they said in the past factory break in was extremely harsh (i think they redline it up to 20km max depending on the brand SOP) and these days they only drive less than 4km and it's only to move the car to and fro the facility and do some minimal testing. could you confirm if that's the case or had i remembered completely wrong?
I'm currently watching this video. My two cents before the ending, is that no they're not broken in at factory. I had bought a 2014 ram 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi. Enjoyed the truck thoroughly. The only oil I was supposed to use was penzoil ultra 0w40. We could discuss more on what I did run for oils instead of the recommendation but my deal on the breakin was simple ... the truck gave a little puff of blue smoke on start up for the first 30,000km and after that, no more puff of oil smoke. So it was easy to tell the engine was still breaking in for that amount of time. I also believe (without hard evidence) that synthetic oils make for a longer breakin period though I could be wrong. Great video man! Thank you
Excellent video Lake! In the late 80s I started working for a SAAB dealer. The first oil change service was at 1,000 miles and was of no charge to the owner. The engines were equipped with a small break in filter from the factory. When properly serviced, these engines would perform well into the 300K mile range with minimal wear. Hone marks were still visible in the cylinders. I don't believe in this nonsense of extended oil intervals. I think manufacturers are taking "orders from above" for environmental purposes. These extended oil changes are about the 3 Rs. Reduce, Recycle, Reuse. All these extended oil changes do is cause excess engine wear which ultimately goes against environmentalist principals. With extended OCIs engines are worn just outside the warranty period. Considering the cost of purchasing a new vehicle in this day and age, not many people can afford to buy a new vehicle every 3-5 years. 3K-5K oil changes will extend the life of these modern engines.
I have owned only 1 new car. It is a 2005 Scion XB with a 1.5 VVT 4 cylinder, which is basically a rebadged Toyota. I did an early oil change around 500 miles and used conventional oil until 3000 miles. From there on I used Mobil 1 oil and filter with oil change intervals of 10-12,000 miles. I still have the car but rust has taken it off the road with around 205,000 miles. It never consumed oil between oil changes. I never had to service anything on the engine other than a water pump, belts and spark plugs. Best car I have ever owned. I do believe extended oil services with the right oil and filter is acceptable for the right applications. I do not think it’s wise on turbo engines or diesel’s though due to higher stress and heat. I’m completely against the “lifetime fluid” bs that the manufacturers claim though. I changed coolant, power steering and transmission fluid at what I feel are reasonable intervals.
You're preaching to the choir! I'm an auto service professional, and I tell this almost verbatim to all my customers. Sadly, some ppl are drinking the koolaid and think I'm just trying to make a killing off oil changes. You ever seen a rich lube tech? You know what does pay tho? Timing chains, cylinder re-sleeving, camshafts and rockers, etc, etc, etc.
Wish I would have known this before! Wife's Pacifica lost a lifter and took out the cam at less than 20k miles! Oil had been changed twice before that happened due to the 9k ish recommended interval and I have gone back to 5k ish oil changes. When I buy a new truck it WILL DEFINITELY change the oil at less than 1k, then again at 3k ish. Appreciate your knowledge and "warning"!!!
I should also add that I used, and still to this day, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic 0w20 oil. The numbers do not lie and the dealer uses Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 full synthetic for the $100 oil Change. When I do it myself, and don't have to wait over an hour plus waiting for the appointment, costs me about $40 for factory oil filter and Pennzoil jug.
I thought putting in synthetic oil too soon would hinder break in and perhaps cause issues because the rings wouldn’t seat properly. And I’m asking only because it’s what I’ve come to understand from many others explaining proper break in on new engines. Thanks in advance for answering
Many cars come from the factory with full synthetic oil and trans fluid now. Toyota runs 0W-20 in half their stuff and they don't make anything but synthetic 0W-20.
Trend is definitely toward full synthetics. Exxon is working on a synthetic gasoline in South America, which should reduce wear. They will use it first in racing. The process involves using water, carbon dioxide and generally wind generated electricity. More details on Exxon website. Not being done in US (at least no plans at this time). Believe initial site is somewhere near Venezuela. Toyota is also working with Exxon on this program. Should make engines last longer (maybe less friction from sulfur and other elements). Much cleaner than the German process used in the 1940s (which used coal). Heard several South American countries use very high levels of ethanol instead of gasoline, even some of the countries that export large amounts of gasoline. I've been using 0w20 full synthetic for about 7.5 years, with a 2k-5k change interval (about 6 months, usually time expires for me before miles). Unsure what prior owner of 3.5 years did. No significant oil use between changes (level ok for full 6 months). People have had trouble with some engines if they use heavier oil (does not always lubricate top of the engine fast enough to prevent wear around the camshaft and valves, I've heard). Brake and transaxle fluid will be changed in 2024 (around 64k miles). Transaxle is "lifetime" according to Toyota. I interpret that as meaning the lifetime expected is decreased if you do not change the fluid around every 10-12 years or 60,000-80,000 miles. Dislike the trend of fewer dipsticks and gauges. Prefer old-school cable driven parking brakes.
2023 Z06 Corvette, LT6 engine. Recommended first oil change - 1 year or 7500 miles. I did an easy break in and then changed oil & filter at 550 miles and again at 2365 and 3995 miles. All major wear metals continue to trend down. Too many believe they have only to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. However, science and data tell the truth! No matter how good the metallurgy and manufacturing process is, friction surfaces still need to wear into each other - and you need to get that crap out of the engine if it is to live a long life.
I have always changed the first oil change way early for exactly that reason break in, I remember when they told you to very your speed and not drive over 55 mph for the first 500 miles to break it in better , now they say you don't need to,you just proved that wrong, change early and don't go 10,000 miles between changes.
Wish you would show a video on extending oil changes with regards to time. I collect vehicles and most of their oils chronologically time-out way before I hit the recommended 3000/5000 mile OCI.
Oil aside, i really couldn’t agree more about statement “without data, it’s just another opinion”. That’s why i tend to watch overseas videos just like yours, because youtube contents in my country (indonesia) usually (if not always) use an opinion instead of data. Words like “usually” “in my experience”, “i did use diesel oil in my motorbike and it’s fine” etc will come up in those contents, and that’s crazy because many people will think that’s the right thing to do. And I don’t know why but western people (US and Europeans) tend to use scientific data, and i have to admit that we indonesians are still pretty behind in using datas in every aspects of our lives. We need more scientific contents like you, because oil is pretty simple maintenance and yet so tricky to understand.
I totally agree! New cars today are not broke in. When I bought a new 2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3, It sayed in the manual not to tow, let the engine idol or drive at steady speeds to much of a length of time, and to gradually accelerate for the first 500 miles, I know it's hard to believe but that's exactly what I did just to see if this was for real, and if it really made difference, and I gotta say, it seemed to have really worked. I've change the engine oil around every 6500 miles using Mobil 1 5w30 and AC Delco filters. So far, I've only had to add less than a half a quart of oil between oil changes and it now has over 214,000 miles now. This Engine has the AFM with Cylinder deactvation also. Early on when I had less than 50,000 miles on the truck, i had discovered that some of these engines had lifter problems, So I decided to get a Power programmer and disable the cylinder deactivation so that it stays in V8 mode and have never had a problem since, and get same MPG,s as before, plus at the same time I added an oil catch can. I think this has made a huge impact on the longevity, and you woulded believe how much contaminated crank case condensation and sludge I have stopped from going into the combustion chambers, and coaking up the intake valves, this Idea about the catch can, I had read about where the Corvettes and Camaros were having problems on the race track at around 20,000 miles on the engines with direct injection and had to have the intake pulled and manually clean the intake ports because there is not gas flowing into the ports to help keep the oil washed down and from sticking to the valve seats and stems causing performace problems. I know this turned into a long winded reply, but I figure it may help since it's oil related and can effect the moving parts of the engine. I really enjoy your videos 👍
The Chevy manuals still recommend you break the car in slowly.I purchased a Malibu Premier last year and did as they recommended.The service rep did think I was a little nuts for getting an oil and filter change at 700 miles though.What is $90 with the cost of engines and transmissions these days.Been doing this since 1973 when I bought my first new car.Never an engine or trans failure.
I'm one that's for the changing the oil often sooner when new. But I always run semi hard. That seats the rings. They have to wear in. The bearings I don't worry. If there is wear, then the tolerance was not set for the oil to have a film between the parts.
Enjoy your videos, I do have a question though. I've read that when the engine is new you should use non-synthetic oil instead of synthetic oil for the first however many miles. The reasoning is that it helps speed up the break-in due to not being as slippery, after that switch back to synthetic for the remainder of the engine's life.
Lake, you said toward the end that you showed that changing oil early reduces wear. That is certainly intuitive, but could you elaborate on the science that shows that? Where have you done a comparison of engines with and without early oil change intervals? It seems intuitive that getting rid of oil with a lot of little particles in it would be beneficial to the engine over the long term, and I always do an early oil change myself on new engines, but I’m not sure you’ve actually shown long term benefit anywhere. If so, please provide a link. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/xNVvGYUu29c/v-deo.htmlsi=fdsPwHGmANTupOvO There is a video of two BMW M2 tested in Korea, take a look. I think the problem is that if the oil is not changed early during the break-in process, more wear will occur when using high RPM.
@@themotoroilgeek Hey, You haven't put out a video in a while. 😒 I was going to ask if you had any information on Marvel Mystery Oil, and how to find WIX Filters. I have been to several O'Reilly's, and they have nothing in stock. Is amazon legit? Or, do You use an outside vendor? Thank You in Advance
Sir, this was truly helpful information. I recently had to replace the motor in a 2013 Buick Regal turbo. I replaced it with OEM/GM same motor and replaced with new OEM/GM turbo as well. Master mechanic at the performance shop said I would be better off. Long story short. The motor came with “Break-In” oil in it. They told me to drive it for 500 miles and be kinda easy on it , then change it out. I’m one of those off individuals that enjoys researching oil and oil filters to see what is honestly the very best to utilize in my vehicle. Whether it be a everyday driver or performance race engine. I can tell sir you are highly knowledgeable when it comes to oil and all the detergents and additives that come from each manafacture. I currently run AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL AND AMSOIL EA OIL FILTERS in everything I personally own. I am not sponsored by Amsoil or anyone else for that matter. Just a blue collar working man. In your opinion sir what is the very best fully synthetic oil and the best oil filter on the market? We also just purchased a new Kia Forte with a little N/A 4 cylinder. I will take the advice from this video and do the same on both my 2013 Buick Regal Turbo(engine&turbo replaced) and 2024 Kia Forte. People anymore could care less about taking pride in maintencing their vehicle. Keeping the oil topped off and using quality parts. Doing preventive Maintence. They think the cheapest oil is just as good as high priced oil. That’s simply not the case . But if you can’t afford or don’t want to spend the money on premium oil. That’s each persons choice. GREAT CHANNEL!!!
We had a 2003 Grand Marquis come into the shop, knocking, oil light on..the 87 year old lady was a nervous wreck...we had one of the females give her a ride home, 136,000 miles, oil pan full of sludge, no liquid oil...the oil filter was dated Nov 2001, car made April 02..we pulled the engine and cleaned the pick up tube, $800 and it's running like new again...she said the car has never had an oil change...this was in 2017 and I still see it in her car port and moved occasionally....
Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and questions. I appreciate them (even though the volume is quite overwhelming).
Just a few points to clarify…
I didn’t say these new engines are not run at the factory. I know they are started and checked for leaks, etc…, but that is not breaking in the engine.
Also, this car was built in Japan. I am not speculating that because it is a Toyota. I know it was built in Japan because all of the paperwork with the car said it was built in Japan. Also, the 0W-8 is an indication it was built in Japan because that is what Toyota recommends in Japan. Here in the US, 0W-8 was still not available when she got the car.
I hope that clears up any confusion.
I would still avoid using any 0w8 oil, there is literally zero tolerance to shearing and fuel dilution.
I miss being a kid, and watching your dad race. I'm from Martinsville va by the way 😁
A HUGE debate online is the weight war. One debate in the VB WRX community is the 0w20 vs 5w30 crew. Subaru was recommending 0w20 when the 2022 WRX was released but now Im hearing they are switching back to 5w30. As you probably know Ford switched back to 5w30 from 0w20 a couple years ago. I do all my own oil changes and I changed mine out (2022 WRX) at 1k miles with 5w30.
@@chrischarles9218 for Mustang Coyote 5.0L V8, Ford specifies from 5w20 all the way to 5w50 for "track" use. So it's easy to get the point. IIRC, there is a video here that describes the relation of engine oil operating temperature and viscosity. Modern cars lacking oil temp gauge (apart maybe from a few VW/Audi TSI cars) makes this whole thing even more frustrating.
@@xynostasos9022 I was actually referring to their Eco Boost engines as Ford found out 0w20 was a little light for a turbo vehicle. Oh Im happy to say my 2022 wrx does come with an oil temp gauge.
I bought a new 2005 Camry 2.4. The dealer had some gimmick of "the first one is on us" oil change at 3500 miles. I asked about the 500 - 700 mile "break-in" oil change. They told me that was "old fashioned technology." I changed the oil myself at 700 miles and when I held my trouble light over the 700 mile oil in the drain pan...there were millions of tiny metal particles floating in the oil. I felt good about getting rid of all that metal at an early life of the engine. I owned the car for 15 years and racked up 218,000 miles before I sold it. The engine ran like it was "brand new" for all those miles. Fast forward to 2020...I bought a new Camry 2.5. I did the same thing but, this time I didn't see millions of metal particles in the oil. Still...I felt good about that first oil change. I totally agree with the first early oil change. BTW...while purchasing my new 2020 Camry the financing clown told me they break in the engines at the factory. I knew it was total bullshit because...how can they have the time and resources to break in millions of engines at the engine factory? Many of these dealership clowns will lie to anyone about anything...even their own mother!
Thanks for sharing. I agree!
Nothing new. The automakers have been making that ridiculous claim since the 30s.
It would be impractically impossible to break in all those engines. They'd need to actually drive the cars for the break-in period. Even if they were able to run the engines for all those hours, it's not the same as the engines being under load.
😂 I was told the same thing total BS ,change oil at 10k the toyota engine already breaks down from the factory 😅 what a Maroon!
Absolutely. In my experience the financing person is the least trustworthy person in that building. They will willfully and knowingly lie to you for their benefit and to your detriment, dig in further when presented with evidence that contradicts them, and have no qualms about any of it whatsoever.
"It's not because I'm smarter than Toyota, it's because we have different objectives." You just won the automotive internet.
I’ve been saying that about modifications for years. Yes the engineers are smarter than me. They are constrained by different rules and have to please a wider variety of people. I only have to please me.
Thanks!
Bro that was a mic drop if I have ever seen one. That was beautiful and earned my subscription.
@@wagz_madness
Engineers often have to deal with the accountants. $0.02 I'm production cost is far more important than having to drop the entire drivetrain out of the car to do timing belts every 30,000 mi.
Absolutely. The dealers k ow most engines will last past the warranty and have most of its problems after it has expired. Most people want their motor to last.
My man, breaking myths left and right. Thank you for your content.
Glad to help
@@themotoroilgeekhello could you explain “reversion” oil burning
That’s a myth
😂
I just got a new Ford Maverick (Fx4 and tow package). The dealership did not tell me about break-in. When reading the owners manual I found that a 1,000 mile break-in period with a mix of highway and in-town driving is recommended before off-roading, towing, or "aggressive driving".
I really hope you did some research on the engine in those before buying one. I can’t understand why people keep buying the (newer) Ford products with all of the content provided out there on the tremendous issues they are having. Pray you don’t have the engine with an oil soaked timing belt turning the oil pump. Steel vs Rubber wins every time. You could change the oil every 1000 miles and it won’t matter as in time and from what I’ve seen as early as 20k miles the belt is shredding itself and clogging up the oil pick up tube and you know the rest of that story.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 another round of applause to Ford for taking the cheap route.
@@chrisurban2866 I think we all hope that our cars are reliable when we purchase them. Engine problems in mid-size and small pickups seems to be common to many manufactureres right now (Toyota, Nissan, GM, and Ford) Wasn't into the Santa Cruz or the Jeep Patriot. Apparently there is a company called Ineos making a mid-size pickup for North America, but I don't know anything about them and was not willing to get a truck I may have trouble getting serviced later if I moved away from their HQ. Thos are all the mid-size and compact pickups I compared. It seems that if you are looking for a reputation of reliability for modern builds, there are no real options.
I've always done my first oil change at 500 mile, 1000 miles and then 3000 miles from then on. I've never had an oil related failure in 30 years! This man is spot on with the information he is giving.
Thanks!
I have a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine where I deliberately have never changed the oil...for 30 years so far. I just tip more in when needed, and it's still going just fine😂 I don't do the same with my car, but on modern synthetics 10k miles is fine between changes. I've never had an engine failure in over 50 years either. Modern engines are built to far closer tolerances, so running in is less crucial, but I think it's still important to go steady on an engine in its early days. Changing the filter is as important as anything.
@@timhancock6626 the key thing you're missing is direct injection which causes more fuel to get into the oil (fuel dilution is the term). This lowers the viscosity of your oil and leads to it needing to be changed sooner. Turbocharging a direct injected motor further increases the need by cooking your oil at higher temperatures. On these motors, change at 5K miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.
What ever you want to do I just do the first oil at 1k
what a waste to change oil that much
Every car/gun/machine, no matter how fine made, needs some kind of break in which means to be used with a reasonable care and maintenance at the early stages. Needless to say, a proper maintenance in its whole life cycle, too. Thanks for your scientifically proven tests.
Thanks!
Finally someone who knows his stuff. I was getting tired of fake gurus and overconfident ignorance to fake knowledge
Thanks!
Nothing fake about Lake. He’s the real deal. I know some of the people he hangs with and they study motor oil inside and out. Get them all together and it’s a group of mad scientist creating something no one knew.
I took you advice. Went and changed my oil today at 700 miles. I just bought my 2024 tundra 2 weeks ago. The dealership looked at me like I'm crazy when I asked for an oil change. I also asked for an oil sample. Explaining to them its a new engine. It's breaking in. There will be micro metal particulate in the oil. Long story short. After they changed the oil and inspected the sample of the first 600 miles oil. They found that I was right and gave me a huge discount on that oil change. Anyways I'm glad I changed the oil. Cause regardless of what any manufacturer says I think a new engine needs that 600 miles oil change.
Right on! Thank you for sharing your experience.
When I rebuild an engine, I let it run at a fast idle for an hour with SAE 10W, drain that and drive the car at fairly low speeds for 500 miles with SAE 10W or 20W depending on time of year, drive at moderate varying speeds, drain that at 1,000 miles, fill with SAE 20@ and drive at moderate varying speeds for the next 1,000 miles, then go to my usually 2,000 mile oil changes. In summer, SAE 30, in winter here in Northern Cal where it doesn't get very cold, SAE 20W. I change the filter at each of these changes. Many say overkill, but I have never had a lubrication-related failure and routinely got well over 100,000 miles on what would now be considered very poor quality oil, so I must have done something right.
1. How much does the testing & analysis of engine oil COST the typical car owner, in addition to all the oil changes being done?
2. When you substitute a lighter weight oil than the ones recommended by the factory, aren’t you doing things that could invalidate your factory warranty?
@@creiganderson You sure are! They will say that your poor choice is the reason for your problem, even if it isn't, knowing that you have no way to prove them wrong without spending thousands.
@@jamesbosworth4191 100,000 out of a modern car is the expected if you don’t ignore basic oil changes. That’s not really a testament to anything. Comment when you have 200-400k and we’ll be impressed that you’re not wasting time with a 2000 mile interval. Maybe you don’t drive often and are changing it because of time which makes sense.
Thanks to you I changed the oil in both my new vehicles at 700 and 1700 miles. It is a great piece of mind knowing its been changed twice before the 5000 miles "first change".
Great job!
Same here. On our reconditioned turbo diesel I changed the run in oil at 400 kms, then again at 1500 klms. On the 5000 klms I started using Full Synthetic.
I'll trust Toyota
@joeblow-xy3oz Oil is cheap, Motors are not. 50 bucks is a small price to pay, especially considering the source wants to sell you cars. Have you seen what oil looks like after the recommend 10k miles? I'll believe my lyin' eyes.
@@joeblow-xy3ozmarketing or engineers? I trust the engineers which would agree with this man here.
Thanks, Lake! Love the science based look at oil instead of all the speculation based info on UA-cam and the web. As been said below, keep up the oil myth busting videos!
Thank you!
Have always believed in break in. Brother bought a brand new Jeep Wrangler in 1993. Drove it home 100 miles and changed the oil. Changed it again at about 1000 miles or so, and then normal after that. Engine lasted forever. Also changed the diff and trans (manual) fluids at 1000 miles with quality synthetic. Really liked that Jeep, and ran surprisingly well for a 4.0, 5 speed and 3.55 limited slip.
My son just bought a new Mazda CX30 and I was hesitant about changing the oil before 1,000 miles because it is new technology and I am old school, so I changed it. Based on your video... I think I made the right decision.
Glad to help!
I have found that if you want to avoid an oil consuming engine it's best to change the oil after the first few hundred miles. I'm with you!
Thanks!
Thanks!
I get to pick up my RAV4 edge on Thursday.
Because of your and the car care nut I’ve decided to properly run in the whole vehicle.
Have bought two oil test kits I intend to do my first change at 500km second at 1500km third at 7000km then I will take it to Toyota for their first service at 1500 km. Will test at every change.
Right on!
I’m in the group engine oil and lubrication tech on fb with you and Bryce. Love seeing yalls comments and information. Also greatly appreciate you making this channel to stop a lot of misinformation from these wannabe UA-cam experts.
Awesome thank you!
I grew up working with my stepdad who had a machine shop and was a very good engine builder. He was always very strict about engine break in. When I started rebuilding engines for my own vehicles, I did the first oil change at 100 miles, the next one 500 miles, then another at 1,000 miles. Then every 3,000 after that. Some might consider that overkill, but there are a lot of contaminates during break in.
Absolutely! Thanks for sharing.
Eu também acredito que o amaciamento é importante para uma boa vida útil de qualquer motor.
Seu padastro e você estão corretos.
I think modern engines are a different animal altogether. Especially a Toyota or other highly engineered engines.
@@Alex-gx5mb Not exactly: Those very "modern" engines have much closer tolerances... so those require thinner viscosity oils, especially for their VVT or variable valve timing mechanisms. BUT, their cylinder walls are machined exactly like previous engines, and undergo the same cylinder wall and piston ring mating (Break-in) process, and require the same metal particle elimination at initial oil changes scheme.
Yes - 100 miles and throw away the cam lube, larger metal shavings and any machining residues from your "clean" rebuild. Put magnets on your oil filter to collect more iron.
Great Video, thank you for the content!
A good friend of mine decieded around 8 years ago to sign a contract to work as an professional soldier for the swiss army. (In switzerland we have mandatory army service for at least 270 days. During this time we get trained by the professional „soldiers“).
When he started his new job he and his 20 classmates recieved all together the exact same model of car with an 1.5 liter diesel engine and manual transmission.
My friend told me that he was the only one reading the manual about how to treat the car during break in. So he broke the car in and never had any issues with the engine. Most other classmates just drove the car from the beginnin „normal“ or even quite agressiv.
After 1 year some classmates said that they had to top of the oil between changing intervalls.
My friend drove his car truble free without oil consumption for 4 years and 180‘000km (110‘000 miles) until he recieved a new car.
I don‘t have exact data, but the opinion that it is necessary to brake in an ICE engine with an early oil change and to drive it as described in the owner manual.
Thanks for sharing!
I would be very curious for your thoughts and perhaps an video analysis on what, if any effects letting your engine warm up before driving has.
Finally, finally, someone who actually knows something. I have been asked that same as I am a Techical Advisor in an engineering company, I have worked for a CAT dealer 40 years ago, and dealt with their SOS oil testing, and heard countless of times that modern engines do not need a break-in with an early oil and filter service. Here in Finland we have harsh weather that harms oil faster, and modern engines have so little piston ring tension that they use oil a lot if anything is wrong. So, as I remember aero piston engines having spesific oil for break in, and instructions how to break in the piston rings with enough intermittent power settings, it would be impossible to have them seated properly at factory, even if the boring and honing were made with stress plates.
Thank You sir.
Thank you for watching and sharing!
I absolutely love watching your videos. Incidentally they really do help out when I tell the missus we're using a certain type of oil in the car and why. Despite being an ASE tech she usually won't listen to my own experience so I just bring up the people I know are experts in their fields and show them to her.
You are so welcome!
Love the information you provide. I have bought a new vehicle since 1998 ! But i did always change my oil at 1k miles and then again at 2k miles. I had 3 New Dodge Ram trucks go 300k plus miles. 1983,1991 and 1999. I also changed the transmission , diffsand transfer case oils at 1k and 2 k miles.
Thanks for sharing
Great information with actual scientific analysis. Next question though is what about lifetime fluids? I have had Toyotas and others and never changed the transmission fluid as they say it is a lifetime fluid and had no issues until the 180k mark when I got rid of it, but am still curious on the matter. Older mechanics will say change it regardless, newer mechanics say never touch it depending who you talk to. Also waterless coolant or lifetime coolant that Toyotas uses etc. Curious on the analysis of this.
It all depends on what you consider a lifetime to mean. For manufacturers, lifetime is simply the warranty period.
That crazy guy Scotty says lifetime of those oils is the warranty period. He claimed that he argued with someone from some company and said he was gonna test the oil and they back tracked and said they’d change it
The car care nut explains the ATF very well. He wants you to change it every 60k I believe. Unless it's never been changed. Then don't touch it say, around 100k. He says he's seen more damage or trouble after a change. Weird I know. But check him out here on the YT
We are going to change the transmission fluid at 10k as well.
Mazda cx5 per manufacturer life time fluid is 90k miles!
When I bought my 2022 Tacoma I brought my truck back at 1000 miles for an oil change and the service advisor said engines don't have to be broken in and more like 50 yrs ago. I told I'm old school (56 yes old.) and to do it anyway. I'm glad I did because this truck gets a lot of highway driving and an oil change every 5000 miles. Thanks for breaking the myth.
I have found that the Dealership Service advisors are young now and most have no clue about much..
Thanks!
The dealer only cares about the warranty period. VW dropped it's warranty from 7 years to 4 years or 50,000 miles in 2021. You could probably run kerosene in your crankcase and make it through the warranty period.
I purchased a '24 Corolla LE hybrid in October soon after your Corolla video. I changed my oil at 1000 miles figuring since it runs in EV mode about half of the total run time, the engine really only has 500 miles on it. I noticed that Toyota is not spec'ing 0W8 anymore in the Corolla. The owner's manual and underhood sticker both said 0W16. Great videos!
Thanks for sharing!
Interesting. I bought a '24 regular Corolla in October as well. My manual and under hood labeling call for 0w-8.
Keep in mind lower weight oils have less weight, meaning the engine has to work less giving better mpg and power. However the wear is accelerated. I would recommend a higher weight oil if you want your car to last the longest.
Funny youtube recommends this to me now, I just changed the oil at 500 miles on my wife's new Mazda; it was very dark oil for that few miles, we'll see at 1500 but I'm guessing it will look a bit clearer, now you've given the science as to why.
Did my 2024 Corolla at 1000 miles and observed the same dark oil.
My lady got lifetime oil changes from the Kia Dealership here in Vegas and 3 months in they call for first oil change.I think and suspect they know about the oil issues Kia has.I still pop in a bottle of Fuel Cleaner before that next change and she goes to California to see her mom.By the time she gets back oil change.Great Video,I saw the name and I'm like where do I know it,yup your dad 😂clicked like and subscribe i shall
I totally agree with you it is amazing how much material comes out of the first oil change when you do it quickly I would never wait a long time on the first oil change. You can see all the particles in the oil when you shine a bright light on the oil like a bright LED flashlight. It doesn’t matter what it is a car motorcycle lawnmower change the oil quickly on the first oil change.
Absolutely. The flashlight on the oil pan can give you a heart attack!
@@themotoroilgeek I know what you mean it’s absolutely crazy how much material is in the oil pan that the filter does not catch. I am a machinist and mechanic by trade so I understand how things need to break in but it is still quite surprising how much material wears off the parts during break in. But after a few thousand miles it all settles down. I change my oil multiple times during this period to give my engine the best chance possible oil is cheap. None of my cars burn any oil and all run perfectly I think it is a worthwhile step to do when the car is new. For instance I just took a 4000 mile trip to Florida and back and did not burn a drop of oil in my V-8 tundra. By the way I love watching your channel keep up the great work I learn a lot.
We bought a 2024 Subaru Outback and they told me multiple times, no break in, 1st oil change at 10k. The manual showed inside 6k. I was suspicious and found you. So, after watching your video of changing the oil on your daughters Toy, I changed the oil on this Subbie at 700, 1200, and will again at 3k, before taking it to the dealer for their first 6k free oil change. I really appreciate you doing these vids. Big help.
We are that weird type that only buys when the former is used up. I still have her '97 Cherokee, and '07 Sedona. My '00 Merc Grand Marquis land yacht still hums like new at 240k.
I'm glad to help!
Company I work for bought new Ford Transit van. No break in, first and every oil change is at 25 000 miles interval says owners manual. Van was bought in Germany and it's start of life was max. speed on German autobahn straight from dealer showroom because it was empty. In it's first 20 miles on odometer it already clocked it's max. speed and max. governed revs 😂
Sad life of company owned fleet vehicles..
at 9:15 when he said "IT'S SCIENCE NOT SPECULATION." I felt that! Channels like this is why I'm consistently watching different videos of the same topic. . . too much speculation and not a whole lot of science. Love this.
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek It would be really cool to see a video on different types of oil brands and how they affect the engine you're testing them on. Chart the results to show how the oil impacts the engine components and the long-term effects. This way, if someone wants to focus on speed, they can choose a specific oil, and if someone wants fuel economy, they can choose another. I really liked the video you did on Valvoline; it made me realize I need to start taking preventative measures with my 2011 Nissan Rogue since it's starting to push 120k miles. One brand's oil affects the engine in a certain way, while another brand affects it differently. I think non-car people (like myself) tend to get lost in what is best, but as you put it, the best for you may not be the best for me. I'm definitely looking forward to more of your videos.
Excellent!!!!!;; My dad was a mechical engineer in the early days of the US aerospace programs...... He always said...facts 1st probabilities 2nd... Too many people base their decisions on PR docs versus science
Thanks!
Just bought a brand new Outback. Have another Outback with 95K miles. I bought into the “lifetime fluid” BS on the transmission and now I know I am an idiot.
Very important to realize that the car owner and the car manufacturer have very different goals.
I’ll change the new car religiously on oil at 5K and the transmission at 10K and then every 30K.
Live and learn.
Great channel. Just subbed.
Thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear about your experience, but we appreciate you sharing it.
We used to change ATF every time we did the brakes. If it never gets sludge and grime building up in it, changing it won't knock much, if anything loose.
Now, they are "never have to change it". Yeah.. about that... ;)
@@josephoberlander that’s a great way to look at it. Thanks. Brakes = ATM change
Would like to see some analysis on how much wear there is in an engine based on the oil analysis. Like if there is a high amount of wear metals in your oil, what's the actual consequence of that and how big of a consequence is it. I see the oil analysis numbers and understand the trends, I just don't have the context for the impact on the engine
Thanks!
THANK YOU!!!
In the owners manual it states the break-in period. Every car I've owned and family members cars all stated that. There were discrepancies between brands/engines but they all were fairly similar. ~500 miles was the typical break-in period and some stated to drive a certain way. Non however stated to change the oil early. We have always done the first oil change at 1k miles for new cars.
Additionally, we've always used the heavier weight optional oil. As an example spec is 0w20, however 5w20 can substitute according to the manufacturer. So on so forth for the other cars. It's not cold in my regain so there's no reason to use the ultra thin oil.
Right on!
I just bought a 2024 accord. When I asked about the break in period they said no need to break it in and change the oil at the recommend interval 7500. Seemed like BS to me. Your test proves that the engines are not broken in and that the filter is not removing all the junk from the break in. I will be definitely change the oil at < 1000. Thanks so much!
I’m happy to help!
Through the magick of interweb, let me express my THANKS for your videos and approach in general. I've got to admit I found you, Lake, when looking for some updated deepdive into LSPI (found a vid from AERA) and then followed you to Motor Oil Geek, looking for exactly this type of content. Kudos!
Thanks!
We bought 2023 Toyota Sienna new 12 months ago. 2-3k miles in I checked the oil and found deposits on the dip stick. I immediately had it changed at the dealership. Service writer asked why and seemed to have no knowledge of other people reporting any issues. Many don't check their oil on new vehicles thinking all is well. You were wise to change yours early. Wish I had mine done at 500 or 1k miles too.
Thanks for sharing
I change my oil sooner than the owner's manual recommends, but like most Toyota owners living in the rustbelt, the frame will fail long before my motor will.
Yep. If you live in such an area, buy in the summer, and immediately take it to a place that does coatings and get the entire frame shot with bedliner or that thick black undercoating stuff they used to use on cars from Europe. If the thing is sealed and water-tight, then all the salt in the world won't matter. The issue is new cars and trucks are shipping with just a coat of paint to protect them, and often the bolts and so on aren't even painted. So guess where the rust starts and then some flimsy paint won't stop it at that point.
Fluid film , diy project for a few hundred bucks. There’s a million yt videos on this. Yw
I remember many decades ago there were companies like Rusty Jones and others that would undercoat your car. I don't know if similar companies are around or not to do that type of undercoating
Yes same on.my 2003 Ford explorer rusted quickly and motor blew at 100,000 and I used Mobil 1 faithfully
Just got the frame rust repaired on my tacoma. 240,000 miles. Oil changes every 10,000 at best.
And NOW, all filters are not created equal!!!
Excellent detailed video.
Thanks for confirming my opinions!
I only use wix xp oil filters
This is truly wonderful!
I am one of those people that, if I get a brand new car or I'm breaking in a rebuilt engine, I will do a 3000 mile break-in process (500 mile, 1000 mile, 1500 mile) with break-in oil specifically.
It has proven to me as being the proper way to break-in an engine for the sake of longevity. Like you detailed, the wear in metals do change during that initial break-in period. This also helps to limit piston ring early wear/degradation.
Thank you for this!
Your welcome glad you enjoyed it
Every new car I've purchased over the past 40 years says to essentially "take it easy for the first 1,000 miles and keep the speed and engine rpm's low", to allow the engine to break-in. Honda even used to say not to drive at a constant speed for a long period of time. Over time those warnings have disappeared, or moved to the fine print. I think most people with a technical mindset would understand that makes perfect sense. And change your oil often!! Great video. Glad to see the FACTS.
Thanks for sharing
Drive it like you stole it. Get the motor hot and let it heat cycle.
Babying your motor does nothing FYI except half seat rings, etc.
It doesn't make "perfect sense" to me. The key thing you are "breaking in" are the piston rings; they're meant to be abraded by the hone on the cylinder walls, so they'll become a matched set. This is why you regularly see little/no bearing wear on high-mileage engines despite fact they consume oil.
So if getting the rings seated is the key goal of break-in - should that be done by gentle, easy driving? I'd argue it shouldn't. It's not just the outward springiness of the rings that forces them into the cylinders - it's combustion pressure acting against the back side of the ring forcing it outward. Thus, to generate some good force to press those rings into the cylinder, you need high combustion pressure - which mean lots of throttle. Not necessarily high rpm, but high throttle - which implies high torque.
My break-in advice (which is worth exactly what you paid for it): Warm up the new engine, ensure no leaks or problems. Manually select a medium gear - 3rd or 4th works well. Get rolling around 1500rpm. Floor it (don't let an automatic downshift), allow rpm to climb 1000rpm or so. Release throttle and engine brake back to initial rpm. Floor it again, allow rpm to climb 2000rpm. Release throttle and engine brake back to initial rpm. Repeat process until you've hit redline a couple times. Bring her home and change the oil. Done.
@@GroovesAndLands100% agree. Seat the rings and also heat cycles.
Most motors that are compression tested after a few years, the best measurements come off motors people would consider "abused" at the start.
Changing oil is a must. Most new oil filters weigh a ton after a ring break in. Even the second filter.
@@mr2_mike I used to do endurance tests on the dyno for GM. Several laps of rpm vs time and throttle position vs time data from the factory stock racecar running @ Virginia International Raceway were uploaded into the dyno and the engine was put on test for 72 hours non-stop. Basically the engine sounded like a racecar out on the track.
Anyway, we were measuring everything. Both the LS2 and LS3 engines would make MORE power, MORE torque, LESS blowby and LESS crankcase pressure as the test progressed. Literally, throughout the entire test, the engine was getting better the whole time.
This is exactly the channel i didn't know i needed for years now
Thanks!
Thank you! I went from a 7,500k oil-changes, to a 5,000k oil-changes!! "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive".---Scotty Kilmer. Now I have two automotive heroes in UA-cam! Oh, and BTW, I only use Purolator filters!
You should have a video on start stop and cylinder deactivation.
Glad I watch your video. My 2023 Ridgeline has 800 miles. There's no way I was going to go 10k on a oil change. But now I will change it before 1k miles.
If you find yourself stationary for a longer period of time, the system is designed to start the engine automatically before lubricant temperatures drop too dramatically.
I know people get worried about engine damage with the start/stop but most mfg's have taken into consideration the impacts on the engine.
Thanks for the suggestion!
When I bought a new truck back in 2015, I took it in to get the oil changed at the dealership at 3,000 miles and they almost wouldn’t change it because the light wasn’t on. I had to argue with them about wanting my oil changed in my truck. I had to tell them “fine, I can go pay someone else to change my oil if you don’t want my money.”. They changed my oil after that with no more questions. Also, I kept changing the oil regularly around 3,000 miles and now have almost 200,000 miles on it and it is still running great.
Thanks for sharing
And if you still do that engine will last
Super informative and data-backed, which I really appreciate (as opposed to all the conjecture and opinionated pseudo-experts out there). I was wondering about this, and actually asked my new car dealer about any break-in procedure, to which I was told it wasn't necessary. I was dubious, and I'm glad I came across your video. I'll be getting my oil changed next week as a result. Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
My wife & I bought a new Japan built Toyota RAV4 Limited Hybrid this summer. I've been a huge proponent of early and frequent oil changes. I changed the oil in our new RAV @ just under 1,500 miles and then again last week @ 4,930 miles. I didn't send oil in for an analysis, but I'm sure if I had, the results would have been very similar to the oil in your daughter's car. I subscribed to your channel after watching your first video of this vehicle and will continue watching. I'd be interested in your ideas of running higher viscosity oil in these new engines. Our RAV4 calls for 0W16, but I wonder if 0W20 would be better. Either way I'll be sticking with 5,000 mile oil changes just like I have in all of our vehicles in the past 20 years.
Thanks for sharing
Hi Lake, I'm gonna tell certain people about this video so they will quit tellin me I'm wasting money and good oil. I have been doing what you're doing all my life, I don't think I know everything even though I am a retired Auto Mechanic (tech) after 50+ yrs. This field is evolving daily and you will not ever know everything, but I do have a clue as to whats going on! Automatic transmission I do the same thing Everything wears in and you have to get rid of the wear materials, but I still got to butt heads with some people! Thanks Lake for all you do!!👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
As an automotive engineer with a background in tribology (I even have presented at a few STLE conferences), I can say I truly appreciate the oil and engine related content you put out. You cover the minute details in pedestrian language that is easy for everyone to understand. It's nice to be able to refer friends and family to a well made video than to try to cover the details in conversation. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to share your knowledge on UA-cam!
Thanks for the very kind words. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for posting this! Looking forward to more motor oil myth busting.
More to come!
Great video as always.
I know someone else mentioned a catch can in the comments. Have you ever considered making a video about them?
Ron
Thanks for watching and the suggestion.
Thanks for letting us know your credentials: You’re now one of my more trusted car guys. New subscriber! Just bought a new car and already made my appointment with the dealer to change oil at 750 miles. Somebody posted to your video mark to the oil filter. Yep. 👍
Awesome!
I grew up around cars, my dad had a small Fiat dealership in the late 70s then a small Mazda dealership in the 80s when I was a kid. Back then, everyone knew that engine break-in was a thing and buyers were instructed to watch their driving at first and come back for an early oil change, it was just something you’d do with a new car.
In the early 2000s I was a new car salesman, I sold Saturn, Saab, Isuzu, then Volkswagen. The majority of new car were leased. I’ve attended manufacturers trainings and asked them all what the break-in period was. All of them said there was no break-in period anymore, that was a thing of the past, modern engines were machined better, used better metallurgy and were broken in on test beds at the factory before being installed in cars on the assembly line. I always suggested to my customer to drive easy at varying RPMs the first 300 km and not go over 3,000 RPMs the first 1,000 km, then follow the manufacturer’s recommended schedule for oil changes as the first couple of oil changes were free. I did that too with my own new cars, but knowing what I know now thanks to this channel, I’d change it earlier and even more regularly. My last non-turbo 2.0L Volkswagen started burning oil quite early.
Thanks for sharing!
My older JD mower with a brigs engine said 8 hour break in oil change. Newer JD mower with Kawasaki engine said no break in, run it like normal for 100 hours and don’t change the filter till 200…
Needless to say I changed it early and do a filter swap with each oil change.
Some 2.0’s had the piston rings installed upside down, so those drank oil pretty heavily.
@@leonkloonsner Whoa I never knew that. I had two cars with this engine from new. The first one, a 1999 New Beetle, overheated and was repaired under warranty, I forget what the issue was, the car was leased. The second car was a 2002 Golf GLS I bought new and kept for 13 years and about 220,000 km. It had a rough idle since new and burned quite a bit of oil, but I checked often and topped it up when needed, it was still going strong when I got rid of the car.
Oddly enough the last four vehicles I bought all still say in the manual to not push the engine hard during the first 1500km (I’m Canadian) and to vary rpm, and still talk about the break in period. Those are 04 Corolla, ‘08 Camry Hybrid, ‘13 RAV4 and 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid for reference. The Maverick manual even says it comes with break in oil from the factory. The day I listen to the salesmen or service advisor at the dealership for advice on this is the day I stop caring if my vehicle survives past the warranty.
Wow! Thank you for clearing those myths up. I appreciate the science and your explanations!
I’m glad we could help!
Most new motorcycles still have a break in service.
Usually around 500-600 miles.
Mostly involves an oil change and checking torques on key nuts and bolts.
But, as stated, most new motorcycles are still purchased and not leased.
And a lot of motorcycle riders care more about maintenance than many car buyers.
Some modern bikes also have an rpm limiter that isn’t lifted until the break in service is completed and cleared in the maintenance minder system.
Most bikes also have a pretty short warranty. And sadly a bunch don't even make it to first oil change. I worked at a dealer for 3 months as a tech, 5 bikes came back totaled with dealer tags still on them.
Most junk in a bikes oil is from the clutch too. Rings are seated from the factory though.
@@randombuilds8336Does friction modifier mess with bike wet clutches?
@@gregorymalchuk272 Yes, it might not short term, but it will. Like if you are in the middle of nowhere and low on oil anything is better than nothing, but it's best to stick with a JASO MA/MA2 oil for the clutch. Shell rotella t4 and t6 are JASO rated and available pretty cheap almost everywhere. Might not be the best, but my triumph tiger 800 made itto 110k miles before I sold it with that oil.
@@gregorymalchuk272
Can’t speak to the specifics of how automotive oil interacts with a wet clutch, but best to use a motorcycle specific oil (for wet clutch applications).
JASO MA (several different specs).
The bike manufacturers generally have branded oils.
Mobil 1 has a couple that are usually available at Walmart.
I prefer Motul motorcycle oils.
Thanks for your content. I just bought a new 2024 Equinox last month. It's at 390 miles. I will be changing the oil and filter around 500 miles, as I did with my 2016 Equinox and my 2004 Harley-Davidson. When I traded in the 2016 Equinox at 67,000 miles, I never had to add oil in between oil changes. Same with my Harley at almost 80,000 miles.
It's still 2023 in the yard. How could you have already bought a "2024" car? Clown :D
@@hid3nax The Chevy 2024 Model year started a couple months ago.
@hid3nax were you born yesterday? That's how it's been for decades 2024 model cars come out around late summer early fall of 2023 just like how it's been for decades. So when you got a 2016 car it's actually manufactured in 2015
@@whereswaldo9089 So in fact, what you call "2024" is actually one year older car. I don't get americans - what's the point of doing such confusion
@hid3nax it's not a year older car it's a current car. 24 can either be a 2023 or a 2024, depending on the time you bought it. Their's no confusion it's been like this since the 70s or even before.
I’m not sure about other manufacturers but GM states in the owners manual that the engine needs to go through a break in period and recommends not to drive at single speed for long periods (cruise control) etc. although, they don’t recommend an altered only oil change interval. As the owner of your vehicle I think it’s really up to you to do your own research and be informed on your vehicle. If you’re not sure I would error on the side of caution and change the oil sooner rather than later
I used a little bit of varying cruise control during the first 500mi's of my new 2024 Colorado and now I am paranoid that I did it wrong. Only used it for about 200 miles and the RPMS / speeds were changing.
Thank you for taking your free time to inform us laymen! I hate when people complain about things that wouldn't hurt anything. Even if the engine was broken in, it wouldn't HURT anything changing it once at 1k... I change my oil at 5k, my mower every 20 hours. Oil is cheap! Engine are not.
On my last deployment in 2009 i spent 14k on a fully built 2 valve for my 1998 mustang. Everything under the hood was new. I did conventional oil and filter at 50, 100, 250, 500, amd 1k. Then i switched to royal purple. I even had my rev liniter turned down to 3500 with spark being the cut off. I can say every oil change up to the 250 had a little metal in it. After that i could go 4k miles, and the oil was still purple. Man miss that car. Even whem i got my 2004 nissan titan April 4th of that year i wemt easy untill 1k milea. Changed the oil at 100, 250, 500, and 1k them to syn.
This is the most intense break in oil schedule I've ever heard of. And I'm positively impressed. Good job. I like it
I was confident that manufacturers were not breaking in engines, but I figured that cleaner and closer manufacturing techniques might eliminate the need for older break in procedures. NOT SO! Thanksfor the facts. I wish zip had known this a few months ago when zip bought a new truck. You did good doing this with a Toyota. They are very highly trusted by U.S. drivers, who might not trust a similar test on a domestic vehicle! Well done!
Thank you!
Just discovered your channel and want to thank you for your efforts! Also a big fan of your Dad.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you very much for the very clear and concise explanation. So far you are the only person who actually explained why there’s disconnect between manufactures’ and mechanics’ oil change recommendations. Cheers!
Thanks Lake. Science proves a lot of things.
Always like when you post a new video. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Good info Lake. I'll have to look to see when I changed my oil for the first time in my new 2010 Chevy. I still own it. I had used Mobil 1 for the first 150K miles or so. Then I did a Amsoil and then to Pennzoil Platinum. I used to go by the oil life monitor. Those were usually 6 to 7K miles but as we've seen on DI engines oil needs to be changed more often. I'm now doing 4K miles on the Pennzoil Platinum. I'm at 174K miles and it doesn't eat oil so I'm happy about that.
Thanks for sharing.
When i changed the oil on my 2020 F150 3.5 at 2000 miles i sent it in to Blackstone Labs. Good thing I did. Second oil change at 4200 miles showed a big difference. Good idea to change early.
I own a 2023 Prius and I also did my first oil change at 725 miles. I am following The Motor Oil Geek's footsteps because I want to drive it until the wheels fall off.
Thanks!
Common sense and science. Lovin’ these videos Lake!
Thanks!
Thank you for all the incredible information and effort you put into these videos! I have a question I hope you can answer: I'll be getting a new replacement engine in my car shortly, and I'm wondering whether I should get a specific break-in oil to replace the factory fill as soon as I get it, or will changing out the factory oil after 500 miles be sufficient? Its a gasoline direct injection, naturally aspirated, and specifies 5W-20. What oil should I get for break in? The only specifically break-in oil I can find is Amsoil's sae30. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Thanks for the kind words and generous gift. Use the Driven BR30 for breaking-in your engine. Check out the Total Seal channel for some videos on how to do the break-in.
@@themotoroilgeek Awesome! I'll look into that. Thanks again!
Thanks Lake! We all appreciate these videos and quality information!
I appreciate that!
I just drain the oil at about 1000 km on every new vehicle i buy just to get rid of any contaminates that may have entered the engine during assembly . I think break in oil was a thing 50 years ago. In my diesels i would run Dino oil for the first year just to guarantee good break in as i put a half million kms on my work trucks . I would switch to a high quality full synthetic after a year. Petro Canada Duron UHP 10w40 was my go to.Love your content , im a oil geek too lol
Right on!
Would be great to see a fact video about oil additives, that "reduce wear and friction by xx%". Lots of opinions in the net about those...
wow im so glad you post this video, thank 😊 🙏 I'm going to change my oil this weekend for my 2023 tacoma I'm call the dealer to request for the oil change at 3500 miles they said wait until 10k 😢.
As someone who has built engines both professionally and privately I know that a new engine will generally be made with tight tolerances in many areas. An engine is made of 100s of parts and these parts will suddenly be expected to move on bearing surfaces at varying temperatures at speed. I always run a brand new engine very gently statically to start. Then check tolerances and change the oil. And I will get particles. I then drive gently at operating temperature retorque and change the oil again.
And then check carefully during service. Result is perfect compression and combustion. But I do know many manufacturers are not this fussy. Oil is cheap
Thank you for sharing
This is a pretty confusing issue to me. I hope my version of clarification is correct. In my new LX 600, I did the first oil change at 500 miles and at 5k since then. The dealership thought I'd lost my mind, but I feel better now, although I didn't send it off for analysis. Great channel and explanation based on facts and science, I just sent it to my wife as she too thought I was "OCD." Thanks for the vindication, Mr. Lake.
Everyone here has OCD.
You are proving me right I never trust I always change oil sooner then when it is dead!
Right on!
Thanks Mate. Another great video backed by science, not just peoples opinions. I'll be changing the oil and filter in my new Subaru Outback Xt at about 1500klms.
Thanks!
Thanks Lake, this is most interesting.
I'm glad to see that my choice in doing several early, starting at 300 miles, oil changes on my 370Z was a good thing to do. My hunch was that in using the specially formulated oil, Nissan ester oil for its very low friction, as recommended by Nissan would result in a prolonged break in period. This seemed to be confirmed by the progressively decreasing amounts of oil consumption between oil changes over the first 15k miles. I think that limiting acceleration and revs over the first 5k miles also contributed to the slow breakin.
I think this was a good thing to do for achieving maximum longevity, along with using short oil change intervals. I plan on doing some used oil analyses on different oils at different oil change intervals to see what will work well. The Nissan ester oil has problems in coping with the high thermal and mechanical stresses generated by the engine's variable valve timing machinery. The oil basically shears down from a 5W-30 to something like a 5W-20 after about 3k miles, hence my 3k oil change interval.
I've been using the Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter ever since the OEM Nissan filter that came on the car. I'm using a 50% taller filter that was designed for larger engines for the increased filtration area and reduced pressure drop, to compensate for the fact that the filter is more restrictive because of its denser filtration material.
Keep up the good work. I've loved your work with Total Seal and all the information you've given us.
Thanks!
Took your advice and changed oil of my brand new Range Rover early. Thank you
Back in 2004 a German automotive technician told me when you first buy a Mercedes or any other car the breaking process is somewhere between 3000 to 5000 miles that first oil change but he also told me when you first buy a car read the tachometer on your vehicle and try not to rev over 3000 RPMs. he said it gives that engine oil enough time to lubricate the engine well.
Thanks for sharing!
As a German auto specialist myself, most of them indicate right in your owner's manual to adhere to a break-in period.
That said, they do a preliminary break-in at the plant. At least, VW did. Who I was employed by for almost a decade.
@@LynxStarAuto i remembered watching a video where they said in the past factory break in was extremely harsh (i think they redline it up to 20km max depending on the brand SOP) and these days they only drive less than 4km and it's only to move the car to and fro the facility and do some minimal testing.
could you confirm if that's the case or had i remembered completely wrong?
I'm currently watching this video. My two cents before the ending, is that no they're not broken in at factory. I had bought a 2014 ram 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi. Enjoyed the truck thoroughly. The only oil I was supposed to use was penzoil ultra 0w40. We could discuss more on what I did run for oils instead of the recommendation but my deal on the breakin was simple ... the truck gave a little puff of blue smoke on start up for the first 30,000km and after that, no more puff of oil smoke. So it was easy to tell the engine was still breaking in for that amount of time. I also believe (without hard evidence) that synthetic oils make for a longer breakin period though I could be wrong. Great video man! Thank you
Excellent video Lake! In the late 80s I started working for a SAAB dealer. The first oil change service was at 1,000 miles and was of no charge to the owner. The engines were equipped with a small break in filter from the factory. When properly serviced, these engines would perform well into the 300K mile range with minimal wear. Hone marks were still visible in the cylinders.
I don't believe in this nonsense of extended oil intervals. I think manufacturers are taking "orders from above" for environmental purposes. These extended oil changes are about the 3 Rs. Reduce, Recycle, Reuse. All these extended oil changes do is cause excess engine wear which ultimately goes against environmentalist principals. With extended OCIs engines are worn just outside the warranty period. Considering the cost of purchasing a new vehicle in this day and age, not many people can afford to buy a new vehicle every 3-5 years. 3K-5K oil changes will extend the life of these modern engines.
Thanks for sharing!
I have owned only 1 new car. It is a 2005 Scion XB with a 1.5 VVT 4 cylinder, which is basically a rebadged Toyota. I did an early oil change around 500 miles and used conventional oil until 3000 miles. From there on I used Mobil 1 oil and filter with oil change intervals of 10-12,000 miles. I still have the car but rust has taken it off the road with around 205,000 miles. It never consumed oil between oil changes. I never had to service anything on the engine other than a water pump, belts and spark plugs. Best car I have ever owned. I do believe extended oil services with the right oil and filter is acceptable for the right applications. I do not think it’s wise on turbo engines or diesel’s though due to higher stress and heat. I’m completely against the “lifetime fluid” bs that the manufacturers claim though. I changed coolant, power steering and transmission fluid at what I feel are reasonable intervals.
You're preaching to the choir! I'm an auto service professional, and I tell this almost verbatim to all my customers.
Sadly, some ppl are drinking the koolaid and think I'm just trying to make a killing off oil changes.
You ever seen a rich lube tech?
You know what does pay tho? Timing chains, cylinder re-sleeving, camshafts and rockers, etc, etc, etc.
1980s..its 2024,no point in 3000 Mike changes...oils have improved...join it. Stop the nonsense.
It's 2024,join it. Oils have improved,join it. Rotary phones don't exist
Wish I would have known this before! Wife's Pacifica lost a lifter and took out the cam at less than 20k miles! Oil had been changed twice before that happened due to the 9k ish recommended interval and I have gone back to 5k ish oil changes. When I buy a new truck it WILL DEFINITELY change the oil at less than 1k, then again at 3k ish. Appreciate your knowledge and "warning"!!!
I should also add that I used, and still to this day, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic 0w20 oil. The numbers do not lie and the dealer uses Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 full synthetic for the $100 oil Change. When I do it myself, and don't have to wait over an hour plus waiting for the appointment, costs me about $40 for factory oil filter and Pennzoil jug.
Sorry to hear that!
I thought putting in synthetic oil too soon would hinder break in and perhaps cause issues because the rings wouldn’t seat properly. And I’m asking only because it’s what I’ve come to understand from many others explaining proper break in on new engines. Thanks in advance for answering
Many cars come from the factory with full synthetic oil and trans fluid now. Toyota runs 0W-20 in half their stuff and they don't make anything but synthetic 0W-20.
Trend is definitely toward full synthetics. Exxon is working on a synthetic gasoline in South America, which should reduce wear. They will use it first in racing. The process involves using water, carbon dioxide and generally wind generated electricity. More details on Exxon website. Not being done in US (at least no plans at this time). Believe initial site is somewhere near Venezuela. Toyota is also working with Exxon on this program. Should make engines last longer (maybe less friction from sulfur and other elements). Much cleaner than the German process used in the 1940s (which used coal). Heard several South American countries use very high levels of ethanol instead of gasoline, even some of the countries that export large amounts of gasoline.
I've been using 0w20 full synthetic for about 7.5 years, with a 2k-5k change interval (about 6 months, usually time expires for me before miles). Unsure what prior owner of 3.5 years did. No significant oil use between changes (level ok for full 6 months). People have had trouble with some engines if they use heavier oil (does not always lubricate top of the engine fast enough to prevent wear around the camshaft and valves, I've heard). Brake and transaxle fluid will be changed in 2024 (around 64k miles). Transaxle is "lifetime" according to Toyota. I interpret that as meaning the lifetime expected is decreased if you do not change the fluid around every 10-12 years or 60,000-80,000 miles.
Dislike the trend of fewer dipsticks and gauges. Prefer old-school cable driven parking brakes.
2023 Z06 Corvette, LT6 engine. Recommended first oil change - 1 year or 7500 miles. I did an easy break in and then changed oil & filter at 550 miles and again at 2365 and 3995 miles. All major wear metals continue to trend down. Too many believe they have only to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. However, science and data tell the truth! No matter how good the metallurgy and manufacturing process is, friction surfaces still need to wear into each other - and you need to get that crap out of the engine if it is to live a long life.
Right on! Thanks for sharing!
I have always changed the first oil change way early for exactly that reason break in, I remember when they told you to very your speed and not drive over 55 mph for the first 500 miles to break it in better , now they say you don't need to,you just proved that wrong, change early and don't go 10,000 miles between changes.
Thanks man! Nice to see science still the same. Without collecting any data, we can't assume nothing!
Exactly!
Wish you would show a video on extending oil changes with regards to time. I collect vehicles and most of their oils chronologically time-out way before I hit the recommended 3000/5000 mile OCI.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Oil aside, i really couldn’t agree more about statement “without data, it’s just another opinion”. That’s why i tend to watch overseas videos just like yours, because youtube contents in my country (indonesia) usually (if not always) use an opinion instead of data. Words like “usually” “in my experience”, “i did use diesel oil in my motorbike and it’s fine” etc will come up in those contents, and that’s crazy because many people will think that’s the right thing to do. And I don’t know why but western people (US and Europeans) tend to use scientific data, and i have to admit that we indonesians are still pretty behind in using datas in every aspects of our lives. We need more scientific contents like you, because oil is pretty simple maintenance and yet so tricky to understand.
Thanks for watching!
Your credentials are impressive Dude! Thx.
I appreciate that!
Please, could you make a video explaining what's the difference of the wet belt engines oil please?
I totally agree! New cars today are not broke in. When I bought a new 2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3, It sayed in the manual not to tow, let the engine idol or drive at steady speeds to much of a length of time, and to gradually accelerate for the first 500 miles, I know it's hard to believe but that's exactly what I did just to see if this was for real, and if it really made difference, and I gotta say, it seemed to have really worked. I've change the engine oil around every 6500 miles using Mobil 1 5w30 and AC Delco filters. So far, I've only had to add less than a half a quart of oil between oil changes and it now has over 214,000 miles now. This Engine has the AFM with Cylinder deactvation also. Early on when I had less than 50,000 miles on the truck, i had discovered that some of these engines had lifter problems, So I decided to get a Power programmer and disable the cylinder deactivation so that it stays in V8 mode and have never had a problem since, and get same MPG,s as before, plus at the same time I added an oil catch can. I think this has made a huge impact on the longevity, and you woulded believe how much contaminated crank case condensation and sludge I have stopped from going into the combustion chambers, and coaking up the intake valves, this Idea about the catch can, I had read about where the Corvettes and Camaros were having problems on the race track at around 20,000 miles on the engines with direct injection and had to have the intake pulled and manually clean the intake ports because there is not gas flowing into the ports to help keep the oil washed down and from sticking to the valve seats and stems causing performace problems. I know this turned into a long winded reply, but I figure it may help since it's oil related and can effect the moving parts of the engine. I really enjoy your videos 👍
Thanks!
The Chevy manuals still recommend you break the car in slowly.I purchased a Malibu Premier last year and did as they recommended.The service rep did think I was a little nuts for getting an oil and filter change at 700 miles though.What is $90 with the cost of engines and transmissions these days.Been doing this since 1973 when I bought my first new car.Never an engine or trans failure.
I'm one that's for the changing the oil often sooner when new. But I always run semi hard. That seats the rings. They have to wear in. The bearings I don't worry. If there is wear, then the tolerance was not set for the oil to have a film between the parts.
Changing a new car's engine oil ahead of the recommended duration, is a hugh + for the car, & as a matter of fact it is a + for any car.!
Enjoy your videos, I do have a question though. I've read that when the engine is new you should use non-synthetic oil instead of synthetic oil for the first however many miles. The reasoning is that it helps speed up the break-in due to not being as slippery, after that switch back to synthetic for the remainder of the engine's life.
Thank you!
Snap-solutely. That's standard practice for serious car people.
Data will not lie. You are really helpful in that.
Lake, you said toward the end that you showed that changing oil early reduces wear. That is certainly intuitive, but could you elaborate on the science that shows that? Where have you done a comparison of engines with and without early oil change intervals? It seems intuitive that getting rid of oil with a lot of little particles in it would be beneficial to the engine over the long term, and I always do an early oil change myself on new engines, but I’m not sure you’ve actually shown long term benefit anywhere. If so, please provide a link. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/xNVvGYUu29c/v-deo.htmlsi=fdsPwHGmANTupOvO
There is a video of two BMW M2 tested in Korea, take a look.
I think the problem is that if the oil is not changed early during the break-in process, more wear will occur when using high RPM.
Good Stuff.
Too many people think that taking the "advice" of the manufactures (via the owner's manual), make them experts.
We know better.
Well said!
@@themotoroilgeek I have new questions.
Have You ever heard of xcelplus? And, does it work?
Thank You
@@themotoroilgeek Hey, You haven't put out a video in a while. 😒
I was going to ask if you had any information on Marvel Mystery Oil, and how to find WIX Filters.
I have been to several O'Reilly's, and they have nothing in stock.
Is amazon legit? Or, do You use an outside vendor?
Thank You in Advance
Thanks Lake, always enjoy your videos,love the approach. Take care.
Thanks 👍
Sir, this was truly helpful information. I recently had to replace the motor in a 2013 Buick Regal turbo. I replaced it with OEM/GM same motor and replaced with new OEM/GM turbo as well. Master mechanic at the performance shop said I would be better off. Long story short. The motor came with “Break-In” oil in it. They told me to drive it for 500 miles and be kinda easy on it , then change it out. I’m one of those off individuals that enjoys researching oil and oil filters to see what is honestly the very best to utilize in my vehicle. Whether it be a everyday driver or performance race engine. I can tell sir you are highly knowledgeable when it comes to oil and all the detergents and additives that come from each manafacture. I currently run AMSOIL SIGNATURE SERIES FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL AND AMSOIL EA OIL FILTERS in everything I personally own. I am not sponsored by Amsoil or anyone else for that matter. Just a blue collar working man. In your opinion sir what is the very best fully synthetic oil and the best oil filter on the market? We also just purchased a new Kia Forte with a little N/A 4 cylinder. I will take the advice from this video and do the same on both my 2013 Buick Regal Turbo(engine&turbo replaced) and 2024 Kia Forte. People anymore could care less about taking pride in maintencing their vehicle. Keeping the oil topped off and using quality parts. Doing preventive Maintence. They think the cheapest oil is just as good as high priced oil. That’s simply not the case . But if you can’t afford or don’t want to spend the money on premium oil. That’s each persons choice. GREAT CHANNEL!!!
We had a 2003 Grand Marquis come into the shop, knocking, oil light on..the 87 year old lady was a nervous wreck...we had one of the females give her a ride home, 136,000 miles, oil pan full of sludge, no liquid oil...the oil filter was dated Nov 2001, car made April 02..we pulled the engine and cleaned the pick up tube, $800 and it's running like new again...she said the car has never had an oil change...this was in 2017 and I still see it in her car port and moved occasionally....
Wow, the legendary 4.6L truly lives up to its reputation. That's a crazy long oil interval!
Lol. Wow
WOW!!!! That's freaking too hard to believe