Watching you rip out all the rubbish and getting stuck in gives me heart to tackle the little jobs on my moggie which i thought were bid ! great video and waiting for more , keep em coming
Thanks guys, do you follow us on Facebook and Instagram? Links are in the description. Thanks for watching its really nice being part of the moggy community
Great vid. Some naughty holes there mate! People do what they need go do to keep their cars going. Luckily you're going to be able to do things properly now. Chances are it'll never need doing again if you use the right rust prevention
Don’t throw the door posts away. Inside they have the threaded plates for the door hinges to secure too. You will need to clean and re use them in your new door pillars. Nice work 👍
dont cut out too much at once. your sills as rusty as they r will stop the body from twisting. once that happens, the car is scrap. make up a brace across the sides and back to front of the car, to keep the body straight and true
You’re a brave man taking on such a task! It’s cool to see the Morris alive and well in the world. Also, a tip on the video production; if it’s possible turn off autofocus on your camera and just preset the focus manually for your shot beforehand. That way it won’t keep going in and out of focus on your shots. Keep cracking on!
Well done sir, absolute coincidence I was trying to remove old underseal off my mini subframe and found those twisted wire wheels just smear it all around. Somone told me the petrol technique and that worked for me. Great video, keep up the good work and I hope to catch up soon
I had a saloon moggie and a estate back in the mid 1970's, great concept cars, but rust was a major problem even after 10 years, lots of water traps with few drains on the sills and door posts, it was designed to rot. When the MOT came around you scraped and cleaned off the rust, stuffed the holes with mesh inside and anything else which came to hand, yes plastic bags too, and a liberal stuffing of polyester filler, rubbed down, primer and finish paint and trust to luck that the MOT tester was only checking with a small screwdriver and did not have a magnet to get your MOT ticket. Aghh, happy days. So to see restoration done with steel replacement sections the same water traps are reintroduced made from the same carbon steel sheet, albiet it a bit thicker as a retro part, ok, it's great and looks good, but in 15 years it will need to be done all over again if it sees water.
Those cheeky mice have used plastic bags as bedding. I’ve had them nesting in my Traveller, and my Sprinter camper, in the bonnet insulation, and the felt air duct! Can’t leave anything laying the little rotters. Thanks for the vids, keep em coming. Is sandblasting that expensive? Cheers.
hi ive also just opend up the chassis rail at the front by the tie plate and they have been nesting there to. sand blasting would cost nearly £500 all in, just not in the budget
Amazing just how much rot you are finding as the work progresses. Just one thought. I've never tackled anything like this let alone attempted to do any welding on a vehicle but having watched so many of the restoration shows on TV I just wondered if there was enough integrity left in those sill areas not to warrant fitting tubular braces across the door openings?
Project Mildred. I’m the first to admit that I am far from an expert but I do think it would be a good idea to weld a brace across those doorways before you cut out any more. I’m sure you have many expert followers and they will know far better than me. Keep safe and keep up the good work, can’t wait to see the finished shell repainted!
@@rivaest38 yes I agree, if you’re removing the sills, you should weld a brace between the a and b posts - if not the vehicle can distort as there is no support to stop it sagging.
Don’t use the heat gun on any areas you will have visible on the finished car. The heat will warp and distort the metal. Use coarse discs on a random orbital. A grinder will also cause too much heat if used to remove paint.
thanks for the heads up. the whole car is going to get sanded down and probably a skim of filler over it before paint but thanks for the advice, I'm new to all this so it helps
Project Mildred you may find your abrasives don’t go far once you touch metal. If you want something that lasts get some 3m cubitron 2. Much harder and longer lasting and they don’t clog like others. When you get to filling use rage ultra. Seems expensive but it’s so much easier to sand you’ll get better results faster. As for blocking abrasives get some sia net in 80 / 180/ 320. You can make blocks from softwood or if you want some flexible ones for all the compound curves use 9mm thick upvc from facia.
Real nice to see someone doing what i have been doing through covid , i am working on a Corsa cabriolet and its full of rot funny but had some plastic bags too shoved into the rear Axel assembly ... Please check out my channel and Corsa videos .. Richard (sofa warrior )
Watching you rip out all the rubbish and getting stuck in gives me heart to tackle the little jobs on my moggie which i thought were bid ! great video and waiting for more , keep em coming
yer get stuck in fella
i am doing up a morris van as we speak ---i thought mine was bad ----i feel better now
Wow that’s some proper ginger dust isn’t it!
Great job ! Just goes to show what you can do with a few basic tools ! Keep up the good work
yer thanks, I'm learning all the time, so really enjoying the refurb
thanks for watching
Great work Pete keep it up. You're a braver man than me. I enjoy watching your progress. 😊😊👍👍
Thanks guys, do you follow us on Facebook and Instagram? Links are in the description. Thanks for watching its really nice being part of the moggy community
Great vid. Some naughty holes there mate!
People do what they need go do to keep their cars going. Luckily you're going to be able to do things properly now. Chances are it'll never need doing again if you use the right rust prevention
yer thats it, if a jobs worth doing !
Don’t throw the door posts away. Inside they have the threaded plates for the door hinges to secure too. You will need to clean and re use them in your new door pillars. Nice work 👍
yes mate I'm keeping all the bits as reference anyway, but yes the hinge plates are safe
Another brilliant video Pete keep them coming
Thanks, will do! new one up tomorrow, and our weekly tool review video up on fridays
Another great job Peter. Keep’em coming!
cheers mate
dont cut out too much at once. your sills as rusty as they r will stop the body from twisting. once that happens, the car is scrap. make up a brace across the sides and back to front of the car, to keep the body straight and true
That was good, you are staying positive so keep it up.👍
it can be a bit scary cutting out so much but it does get worse haha
You’re a brave man taking on such a task! It’s cool to see the Morris alive and well in the world. Also, a tip on the video production; if it’s possible turn off autofocus on your camera and just preset the focus manually for your shot beforehand. That way it won’t keep going in and out of focus on your shots. Keep cracking on!
hey thanks for watching, yes the videos i now record are without the auto focus and also the sound is better.
Well done sir, absolute coincidence I was trying to remove old underseal off my mini subframe and found those twisted wire wheels just smear it all around. Somone told me the petrol technique and that worked for me. Great video, keep up the good work and I hope to catch up soon
yer heat gun works well / ish, i could really do with my blow torch that would really burn it off, thanks fore watching mate, meet up soon
I had a saloon moggie and a estate back in the mid 1970's, great concept cars, but rust was a major problem even after 10 years, lots of water traps with few drains on the sills and door posts, it was designed to rot. When the MOT came around you scraped and cleaned off the rust, stuffed the holes with mesh inside and anything else which came to hand, yes plastic bags too, and a liberal stuffing of polyester filler, rubbed down, primer and finish paint and trust to luck that the MOT tester was only checking with a small screwdriver and did not have a magnet to get your MOT ticket. Aghh, happy days. So to see restoration done with steel replacement sections the same water traps are reintroduced made from the same carbon steel sheet, albiet it a bit thicker as a retro part, ok, it's great and looks good, but in 15 years it will need to be done all over again if it sees water.
yer thats it, im planning on adding a few drain holes to try and stop this
Those cheeky mice have used plastic bags as bedding. I’ve had them nesting in my Traveller, and my Sprinter camper, in the bonnet insulation, and the felt air duct! Can’t leave anything laying the little rotters. Thanks for the vids, keep em coming. Is sandblasting that expensive? Cheers.
hi ive also just opend up the chassis rail at the front by the tie plate and they have been nesting there to. sand blasting would cost nearly £500 all in, just not in the budget
tedious surgery, all cancer parts discarded ;)
stay safe
yep thats it all rot must go !
I have a rotten chassis section near engine and front inner wheel it needs cutting out and new welded in can u advise
Amazing just how much rot you are finding as the work progresses. Just one thought. I've never tackled anything like this let alone attempted to do any welding on a vehicle but having watched so many of the restoration shows on TV I just wondered if there was enough integrity left in those sill areas not to warrant fitting tubular braces across the door openings?
yer its inteteresting, i am fitting new floor pans and sills etc, but i have thought of adding a bit more support in the future
Project Mildred. I’m the first to admit that I am far from an expert but I do think it would be a good idea to weld a brace across those doorways before you cut out any more. I’m sure you have many expert followers and they will know far better than me. Keep safe and keep up the good work, can’t wait to see the finished shell repainted!
@@rivaest38 yes I agree, if you’re removing the sills, you should weld a brace between the a and b posts - if not the vehicle can distort as there is no support to stop it sagging.
Don’t use the heat gun on any areas you will have visible on the finished car. The heat will warp and distort the metal. Use coarse discs on a random orbital. A grinder will also cause too much heat if used to remove paint.
thanks for the heads up. the whole car is going to get sanded down and probably a skim of filler over it before paint but thanks for the advice, I'm new to all this so it helps
Project Mildred you may find your abrasives don’t go far once you touch metal. If you want something that lasts get some 3m cubitron 2. Much harder and longer lasting and they don’t clog like others. When you get to filling use rage ultra. Seems expensive but it’s so much easier to sand you’ll get better results faster. As for blocking abrasives get some sia net in 80 / 180/ 320. You can make blocks from softwood or if you want some flexible ones for all the compound curves use 9mm thick upvc from facia.
morrys were born with rust
You appear to be cutting an awful lot of metal out in one go..
Real nice to see someone doing what i have been doing through covid , i am working on a Corsa cabriolet and its full of rot funny but had some plastic bags too shoved into the rear Axel assembly ... Please check out my channel and Corsa videos .. Richard (sofa warrior )
will do mate thanks for watching
I love watching this, but please get rid of the music, it would be better with silence.