Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Highly Productive Orchard With Fruit The First Year
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 січ 2017
- In this video you will see how we planted our orchard and you will gain a lot of knowledge from our experience and the difficulties we encountered.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CLICK 'SHOW MORE' FOR RESOURCES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We generally only try to reply to comments the first 24 hours after the video aired due to the amount of comments we receive. Feel free to get in touch with us via facebook or email.
Link to our Facebook Page: / swedishhomestead
Do you like what you see? You can make a donation to our channel here:
/ 117708921611213
_
You can support us for FREE by shopping on Amazon via this link: amzn.to/2iT3N3Q
_
Tools I use daily
Leatherman Surge: amzn.to/2jm6dbJ
Stanley Box Knife: amzn.to/2iOi3bG (I use a different brand that is not available on amazon)
Head Lamp Petzl Pixa 3: amzn.to/2iPEjjR (during winter time)
_
Clothes I use:
Merino wool / no smell long underwear: amzn.to/2iMl4Lr
Merino wool / no smell long sleeve shirt: amzn.to/2iOt904
www.pfanner-aus...
_
Other Tools We Use / Are Planning To Get
Axes:
Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe: amzn.to/2iSuXrm
Gränsfors Scandinavian Forest Axe: amzn.to/2hZUvU1
Gränsfors Carpenters Axe: amzn.to/2iOjFlK
Fiskars Splitting Axe: amzn.to/2j1ieA4
Battery Driven:
Hitachi 18V Drill: amzn.to/2iOrcku
Knifes & Pruning:
Mora Knife: amzn.to/2iSziuK
Felco Hand Pruner: amzn.to/2i3aQp9
Silky Handsaw: amzn.to/2iSC5Eo
Swiss Army Knife: amzn.to/2imOCfs
Garden Tools:
Dutch High Quality Garden Tools: www.sneeboer.co...
Fiskars Light Weight Rake: amzn.to/2iOxO2g
Wolf-Garten Hand Trowel: amzn.to/2iOALQb
_
Poultry Equipment
Bell Waterer: amzn.to/2iSwDBa (we use a different brand)
Electric Poultry Netting: amzn.to/2iSwP3m
Solar Energizer: amzn.to/2iSDXww
Poultry Leg Bands: amzn.to/2iMvFGn
Water Nipples: amzn.to/2iFC7Mm
Ceramic Infrared Heater: amzn.to/2jDjfle
Simeon, I have a good suggestion for a natural weed barrier - layers of brown cardboard covered with wood chips! I use this combination all of the time in my perennial garden because It blocks the weeds and decomposes over time. The best part is that the earthworms LOVE it because it fosters the growth of the bacteria they eat. Just be sure that the cardboard is not glossy because that type contains chemicals that are toxic. It doesn’t matter if the brown cardboard has some printing on it as long as there is no glossy coating.
chicken tunnels is such a creative idea! I like that one
You have done an amazing job.
Yeah, I would say...fence the tree area in and let the chickens keep the weeds at bay. Good luck. Your orchard looks amazing! Blessings, -katrina
This is turning into a fantastic channel this one 👍 I have so many of the same thought and ideas- but not the place to make it happens... 🇩🇰
The growth speaks for itself- but I thought that so much wood chips would make the ground sour? I am looking forward to here about what you will be doing around the edges 👍👍😉🇩🇰🌲
I love your vids , and your English is just fine bro.
looking forward to the pruning video!
I'm in Australia - so a very different climate to yours! The chicken tunnel is a great idea, and maybe a living fence of coppiced trees could keep the weeds at bay too. I know here in Australia we can use clumping grasses or bulb-type plants (agapanthas etc) which create a dense root ball to hold back the weeds and grass from areas we want to garden - if you can find equivalents for your climate perhaps they can be used too.
Pour on the wood chips!! Phenominal!
I have been using wood chips as well, I believe leaves are better than wood chips though. I added a roller to the back of my box scraper and in the fall as a fire prevention method I use the box scraper with the blade about 1 inch off the ground to rake the leaves in the woods around my house. I have a video showing it.
Also I had two peach trees that a deer decided to use to scrape the velvet off its new antlers and tore up the peach trees pretty badly. A lot of the bark was removed and I did not want to leave it exposed to rot, so I figured what the heck. I took some gasket sealer "Permatex the Right Stuff" and smeared it on the exposed wood and I am here to tell you it worked out fantastic. In one year they grew the new bark and completely covered the damage and pushed off the sealer.
The other idea I would have you do, is take a bucket and collect your urine and dilute it with 10 parts water and pour it in the wood chips around the trees. It is great fertilizer if diluted, check out the book called "Liquid Gold" at Amazon
Cheers
Thank You for another fine video, very informative.
The pear tree that you showed at 11:00 is ready for you to make more pear trees. Those 2 root sprouts can be cut off and vegetatively propagated if you didn't prune them already. You need the root stock which is more hardy, then the fruit stock which is less hardy grafted on to it from the same tree. Lots of youtube posts telling you how. This is the same for all of the other trees in your orchard for expansion that you are thinking about.
Nice orchard will be fun to watch over the years.
Yes. I can't wait until we have plenty of fruit.
loved this back to Eden...great ideas...
Take a page from some permaculture tricks where you plant a border that isn't invasive around the orchard. It would effectively snuff out weeds, attract bees for pollination and deter animals from entering depending on what plants you choose. 2 layers of dense flowers, berries and smaller greens should do. Do it properly and all you have to do is tend the new growth once or twice a year to add as an active compost.
In short: Take inspiration from how wild apples grow and what environment doesn't steal nutrients from them and mimic that environment. Trying to control nature is usually harder than promoting it to do the work for you.
Great video my brother. Praying for your family and for beautiful Sweden, From Michigan. =]
Another great video, keep them coming.
A couple of wee points:
Near the end there were new branches growing from very low on the tree. If you have grafted/budded trees, these are from the root stock and will take over the tree to produce random, rubbish fruit. Make sure you prune these off.
Also, you may need to look at thinning your fruit while small. Heavy cropping of some types of fruit tree can turn the tree to biannual cropping, good one year, none the next and so on.
It’s amazing trees that in autumn are ugly and misshapen within a few months are totally different have produced lots of new growth and given you the opportunity to prune them into a more pleasing shape
Well that was enlightening. Now I know how mulch I don't know.
I planted my trees 10 degrees into the predominant wind direction, which is usually from the west. This way the tree will grow straight as it matures.
Simeon, when the deer come into the garden, they are actually looking for the freezer. Lol
Yes. But they come at night time. ;)
Thank you for your wonderful videos! When you mentioned the tree leaning because of the weight of the fruit, it made us think of Yahweh's Law, where He tells us not to eat (discard or remove young fruit) the fruit of a newly planted tree for 3 years. In the 4th year, it was to be given to Yahweh (given to priesthood). The 5th year was for everyone! If we follow YHWH's instruction, it would allow the root system to grow and support the weight of a tree that was not burdened with growing fruit before becoming large and strong. Lev. 19:23-25
Things I need to know! Thanks
I'm always scared of pruning my apples! I get over zealous and my husband laughs and says I'm going to Bonsai the things! lol.
Enjoy your videos, looks like winter there is similar to your winter in New England.
It is very mild this year. Usually we have it colder and more snow right now.
Our orchard story is exactly the same as yours, exactly. We bought our fruit trees in Feb and planted them a few weeks later. We had the arborist who brought the tree chips in dig the whole for 23 fruit trees. We have very compacted red clay soil in the Shenandoah mountain area of Va. Our trees are in their third season. The only battle I have is with the Japanese beetle who invades the fruit trees in June. Last summer I covered them which worked. This season I will cover them again after they bloom and pollinate. We too are in the same position with figuring out a border temporarily. I've decided to lay cardboard down and place straw bales on top of the cardboard for right now. Yes, it is a lot of bales but much cheaper for us until we figure what exactly we want to do for the border...Paul Gautchi of Back to Eden said that the railroad ties don't leak creosote so we are considering a semi truck load which would gives us 287 of them. We have 50 acres. Anyway, I just wanted to share.
Thanks for sharing. That's awesome.
Just because someone says it won't leach into ground, I would do my own research. I was going to do raised garden boxes with RR ties but unless you line boxes with plastics, your plants will absorb the toxins from the ties and it will still leach into soil. Funny all my RR ties I lined my cow pasture with has bleached from sun and water over ten years and also have dark oily dirt around them, I'm not a rocket scientist but this can't be good but do last a long time from what there treated with. Just my experience. Good day, good luck
I suggest a hugal mound on the borders of the mulched area. It will require less fence on top to keep the deer out. The grass will have to grow up and over to spread into the mulch but bee easier to pull out of the hugle. Plus you will have more micro climats to plant in around the orchard.
I'm having a permaculture orchard festival, apparently. I went to the library to check out the movie yesterday, but the dvd stopped. So, now, I Have to return it to the library. And this morning I get to watch more! (your orchard)
Haha. Nice.
Thanks for the measurement of your wood chips around the trees and the ground. I just planted four new apple trees on "virgin" land (grass). I used a lot of compost and ground leaves as a soil mulch... a decent start.
22k redan! sjukt vad fort ni har växt, grattis :)
Tack. Jag vet. Galet!
An idea for you to try to keep deer out of your orchid. I learned this from someone living in the country who had fruit trees. They ran a string around the area a few feet off of the ground. The tied tin foil pie pans to the string and let them dangle in the breeze. It keeps elk out and may work for deer.
SettingBrushfires look at what Sep Holzer recommends his famous bone sauce... he claims it keeps deer and rabbits off.
You asked for ideas on keeping the encroaching weeds out. You could plant a border of any kind of hedge that suits your fancy.....lilacs, boxwood, own-root roses, pygmy barberry, etc. Maybe others have good suggestions for hedges....It would also make your orchard even more attractive.
I seem to remember a video of Paul Gauchi (the Back to Eden guru) suggesting digging a small trench around the garden and pouring concrete.
Great idea for your orchard trees. We will have to try that for our Rocky Mountain Homestead Orchard...
We've been clearing some cutover for an orchard. It's a lot of work but an excavator helps! I'll look into bringing the chipper in. Good idea.
Great! Hope it goes well.
Hey Simion, We had a similar issue with our woodchips. We went with a 36" strip of black plastic weed barrier around the edge of the garden. That seemed to provide a good buffer of protection and kept the grass from growing into our beds.
Untreated Sweet Chesnut was used for fencing in the UK. Chesnut Paling was the traditional form. It has a reputation for lasting outdoors for a very long time (if memory serves, paling fences with chesnut were repouted to last 20-25 years in the South UK). It's also - if you have the climate - fast growing, coppices well, and grows straight in competition.
Not sure how well it does in contact with the ground though.
You could also use a type of straw bale garden to delineate your border. The straw bale sits with the cut side up. You water ot for two weeks to ferment it, adding nitrogen. Plant fruit and veg into the bale. The bale composts after 1/2 years and you can add as compost to your orchard. And the bale can sit on mulchmat or old feed bags/newspaper to suppress weeds at the border. People do this with hay too, less commonly, but that might just add to your weed problem...
What a difference between the covered and uncovered ground in the tree growth rate. I saw a comment that mentioned using vinegar Epsom salt and soap as a good top growth killer for weeds/grass infiltration, much better than roundup. You will soon have apples to make not only apple cider but vinegar from the cider.
I'd bet it takes lots of time to chip then move and spread the chips to the depth you want and need. Last year I didn't reapply woodchips between my mounds I grow my annual vegetables and the weeds/grass did great. I don't use wood to contain the beds but instead I mound the soil into 3'-4'/1 meter wide beds with 1/2 meter between the beds. Old carpet is what I used between my beds but you need to rake and hoe the weeds every year in the winter/early spring. If I had a source for wood chips I would reapply yearly.
We have started to create our orchard (about 80 plum trees) about 25 years ago. Distance between the tree is 6 meters and between each tree we have planted 3 currants brushes. The trees are in two long lines, today it looks like long alley. First we have planted in the middle of the alley all sorts of vegetables, today only grass. Trees are large, there is no more space and enough sun.
there r weed eating Ducks ,that r quiet n don't bother with anything else except weeds n don't need but drinking water n some to clean their noses with ...other than that ive used a cheap black bag cut along side n bottom to make it bigger n layed that down ( did 2 areas one with plastic on too n the other with it just under top surface of thin layer of chips ....both worked pretty good.I've also cut open feed bags n dog food bags n layed them out on ground n put boards on top to hold down from wind. hope this helps or maybe gives u better idea ,but these did work for me ...they say to put roof flashing, Metal in different widths n length s works or even untreated wood or rubber strips ....but I couldn't afford them that's why I used what i already had !!!
Another fine video. We are removing an old pear tree this spring. After watching the video we have decided to use your method of planting. Space is limited so the mulch area will cover about ten feet in diameter. Also we have been controlling our weed and grass problems with a Red Dragon propane torch. We don't have chickens and do not want to use any sprays. Just have to be careful how close you get to other plantings. I use an old coal shovel as a heat shield.
If there are just a few weeds boiling water works miracles. It breaks the cells of the leafs and the plant will die.
I don't know if you have access to cardboard boxes, but laying them flat and keeping them in place with wood chips or rocks would be a temporary fix for your edges.
I am actually eating bunny stew right now, =]
depending on your hunting regulations, you could turn your deer and rabbit problem into a freezer filler
To establish a border around your orchard dig a trench around it 6 to 8 inches deep by 4 inches wide. Once established the maintenance required is not too difficult. use a flat edged spade to maintain the edges.
I am excited to see your progress with your method of growing the fruit trees.. I grew some that didn't make became I was busy working at time. For taking care of my plants and I thought my gardener would advise me. He had a degree in Horticulture Poly Tech University which is top notch! I don't think he had a passion for his work and we had to let go sadly. I did learn a valuable lesson I wait until I could gather more knowledge and care of them myself if I am able. Have blessed day😇👍👍.
Hope it works out next time.
I had amazing luck (fast and effective) with a combination of 30% horticultural vinegar, epson salt (cup or so per gallon) and a bit of dish-washing soap. Most weeds and grass died within one spray in a day or two. It's organic and not detrimental to bacteria, bees or beneficial insects. We're zone 5 in Illinois... a bit warmer than you. I'm interested in how you avoid the apple associated diseases...fungus etc. Ooh... use a ditch to create an open air barrier to discourage future weed incursion. (It may become a a nice swale for watering the orchard as well!
Interesting study
Chickens will eat the grass as well, I have also had good luck with 2-3 ducks running around, the ducks won't scratch up the chips and they will eat slugs that collect in chips. We also like guinea hens because they also don't scratch and dart thru garden without harming plants, but they won't eat much grass
I use aluminum roll flashing and a flat edged hoe - make slices into the soil where I want a border to keep grasses/weeds out and push the aluminum deep into the soil. You can get a roll of aluminum roll flashing, and cut it to your measurements. I was given a 3 foot high by 50 foot long roll of aluminum flashing for free. And I cut it in half to 18 inches high. So I had enough to cover 100 feet. I put it 8 inches into the ground. Having 10 inches sticking up keeps the thick wood chips inside the area. Aluminum never rots. good luck with the orchard.
I would add a few cherry trees to your orchard. I am learning so much from your channel. I'm hoping to move soon to a house with a large olive grove here in Tuscany. I didn't know about the Back to Eden method of gardening until your videos so I watched the Back to Eden film. Wow, it's amazing and I can't wait to create a vegetable garden next to the olive grove. I'm thinking that since pruning of olive trees happens annually in February, that there will be a lot of wood from more than 100 trees that can be chipped. I could hire someone to bring a chipper each year and get that done. I'm getting very inspired from your videos and I'm sure that God led me to your channel. Bless you and keep up the good work!
That is great. Just remember. Something that is not clear enough in the Back to Eden film is that the wood chips need to contain a lot of leafs. It they don't you need to add manure or compost. The wood chips Paul Gautschi uses are just freshly chipped up branches with leafs. He also applies it once it is composted more. I will be making more video on this.
Hey, in regards to your boarders being lost. Try using cardboard. I place it over the top of where weeds encroach, then weight it down with additional wood chips. Not sure how plentiful cardboard is in your country, but here it can be had behind any business, and in many housing dumpsters or recycling bins. It's free, all you need is to buy a couple of box cutters to break it down quickly with. I'd stick to cardboard with the least amount of print on it, I'm highly doubtful that small amount even matters, but just in case. How's the worm population under that orchard? I'm guessing its CRAWLING with them, lol
What I would do is rent a rototiller and loosen the soil and (after the ground thaws) then go to your wood chip and or compost piles and throw some into the lose soil and some sand if you can and it doesn't take much sand and then run the rototiller just lightly (Just to mix things up) stay at least 3' feet away from the base of each tree One other thing I noticed is "do not" pile anything against the trunk. The bark has to stay dry so that it will prevent fungus and Decay ! It's Okay to take some wood chips around the base creating a Dam and if you do keep it @ least 12" inches from the base or where the trunk comes out if the ground this will create a wall to retain watering or good rain and make sure after a good rain that it doesn't wash a run in on the base if so make sure you pull it back out. This also will prevent suffering from decay and making it easy for insect to penetrate ! Your FB Buddy in Kentucky ! Oh ! and for your relief...this has to be done once "1" your trees will love you back with lots of good fruit !
We in Manassas Va, USA are having a very mild winter. the extreme cold came and left from Nov to about Christmas . typically 50 or 40 degree F. but got down to 14 to 8 degree F. After Christmas it gets really cold like 30 to 20 degrees but this year since Christmas temperature has been 30 to as high as 55 degress Fahrenheit
Tractor Supplies,in USA,sells 100 feet by 7 feet high. deer fencing for 15.00 n i put it up all around my tree area that was 400 foot by 150 foot area,n its still working after 2 years n it keeps out snakes ,deer,rabbits,dogs,cats,n even smaller critters if u have some bunched up at the bottom like about 4inches or so ...karen
I have used 6-8" logs of any species for my bordering .They last about 4-5 years. Then heavily mulch inside the border.
Market gardeners use landscape fabric (3/4 ft). Cardboard would work but has to be replaced at least once a year, worms love it. A good way to recycle cardboard. Miracle farms in Canada uses plastic.
take old bill board tarps and cut one up and lay it on the ground around the boarder it will kill the weeds with very little time or effort put in and it will save some plastic from going to waste
The biggest benefit of the mulch other than weed control is it retains so much moisture. Nice looking orchard, with your brother being an Arborist you have a good resource in proper trimming and maintenance throughout the orchards life. Simeon did you say that you planted them bare root?
Unfortunately we couldn't get ahold of the bare root. That is the only way I want to go in the future though.
Increase the amount of compost on the edges again... perhaps every spring.
I enjoyed your video. I'm very interested in doing something similar. You might be interested in the documentary, " Back to Eden", which highlights, Paul Gaustchi's use of wood chips in his garden and orchard.
That's where we got the idea. I have visited Paul.
This has worked for our garden borders: minimum 2 layer thick plain cardboard (we find it at the back of McDonald's fast food place), then wood chips on top or firewood to weigh down the cardboard if wood chips not available at that time. Someone recommended wetting cardboard first to remove any tape (we try to get tapeless cardboard) and to help with it staying down if there is wind during install. Homemade earth staples could also help in pinning down the wet or dry cardboard. This works so good it is an easy, affordable way to continually expand the perimeter.
the cardboard has chemicals that are dangerous for plants
Name them.
To keep grass from mulch bed you could use thick layers of newspapers coverd by a low lay field stone wall . plant some sun tolerant hasta. they come back evry year and can be dug up evry 3 years and spread out acroos your stone boarder.
I think you should ad a new layer of wood chips every year. Just 5 or 10 cm should be enough to keep the layer 15 to 20 cm thick. If you do this, it should also smother the weeds ad the edges. Weeds that grow at the edges should be really easy to weed/pluck from the ground, root and all.
I attempted to grow a plum last year and it died. I want to try it again. Thanks again for a great video.
Dirtpatchheaven recently had a video that showed a lovely fence very cheaply made with the small trees that were bring removed from forested areas as part of a forest cleanup kind of thing. It was super cheap, really nice looking and effective. You should go check it out!
Excellent video. My apple saplings look more like your first year ones in grass. I knew about the back to Eden method but finding woodchips is tough for us too in this area. But seeing the difference in the growth spurs me to think about buying chips this spring. I'm amazed that you didn't add any amendments either. We lost our first apple tree planted from deer stripping the bark ...I didn't even think about rabbits doing it too! I'll have to try some wire. Thanks for sharing.
Mice are really bad on the trees too sometimes. And moose here in AK. You don't have any tree service companies there to get woodchips from?
I have to admit I haven't aggressively sought out the city to see if they give away mulch, but since we don't have a truck we'd have to have it delivered. I bought one truckload for 35.00. Maybe I'll advertise a free dumping site.
Create paddocks for goats and move them along the perimeter in the same way as your chicken tractors followed by your pigs !
Would like to see a new orchard video in spring or early summer.
Yes. There will be.
Hi Simeon, greetings from Finland. It would be nice to get an update on your orchard. Especially as it is "the" time of the year for apple trees also here in southern Finland. I was hugely impressed on the amount of growth you had in those trees, maybe because of the deep bedding. It might be something for even professional apple farmers to think about.
Building a root cellar may be a good idea and a great video.
In the UK we have lots of ditches, put the dug out earth on the inside perimeter, at a height to deter the deer from jumping the ditch. Also creates a windbreak for the orchard. Ditches also slow down the invading weeds to some extent, but a good green fertilizer cover crop should prevent weeds. Boundary hedges like hawthorns, are invaluable as a snow break, (we have them alongside roads/lanes to cut down on the snowdrifts, keeping the roads 'snow free' to some extent). Weave them together as they grow like a living fence. No need for wires. You can plunge green 'spring' pruned branches back into the soil, to root again like willow sticks. its not always successful , as conditions need to be right.. Do you have these in Sweden?
Just before pruning time in your area, visit with your local farmers in your area of this world who are also interested in increasing their orchards and offer to exchange your clippings with them if you are growing varieties they don't have. Take a list of your varieties with you. It is my understanding you can prepare for newly rooted trees using a 1 gallon bucket, 3 to 4 inches of wood chips, 6 to 7 inches of your growing medium which should contain some well rotted compost containing aged chicken manure, by sticking a freshly cut 4 to 6 in cutting from your fruit tree, as long as it has a node on it from which The Roots will form. Top off with an inch of protective wood chips,, and water well, and set it aside. Let me refer you to a UA-cam channel called edible Acres. I'm not an expert, by any means, but this guy has performed wonders. I think you'd enjoy watching his Orchard themed videos. Have a great weekend. Hope this helps. If you. Feel my comments are out of line, please forgive my good intentions.
Thank you for all, including description, ideas to exchange and the channel!
try planting a 3 foot wide border of chop and drop nitrogen fixer around your orchard. when weeds start invading chop the whole border and leave it for mulch. comfrey would be ideal
PT does not contain arsenic anymore, just copper compounds
Maybe try a cover crop like clover. That will feed bees if you have them, and increase pollinators, work as a weed bed ,recycle nitrogen ,share it with the trees, and you can cover them in wood chips at a later date (at your convenience ) making them a nice fertilizer .May even work as a sacrificial for the rabbits and deer.
chicken tunnels are brilliant idea.. or bricks.. rubble bricks..
I have a possible solution for your border. RoundUp is what farmers use over here. It kills all vegetation but does not penetrate the soil where it becomes neutralized if it does. It's cheap and very effective but it is chemical.
The other is natural but a bit more pricey. Make a dog run. Of course you'll have to get dogs and feed them (the pricey part) but nothing will grow in the area that the dogs continuously walk over.
Also as for the wood chips used around the trees, to make it last longer, don't put it as thick but add some every year. you should have enough.
another great video, about fencing, you have forrest and a great saw so why not build a wooden fence
If I ever plant a fruit tree, I'll try what you did and put the wood chips around the roots. Does the wood mulch type matter? Pine, cedar, etc.?
I think you have it right my friend, chicken tunnels
Are you planning on adding more chips now that the first batch of wood chips has decomposed to such an extent?
No. There is still plenty of covering. I will add more to the areas where there is just gras.
Be careful to protect the trunks where the bunnies have eaten the bark. I have several older pear trees that were damaged the same way and they are rotting on the inside and will eventually fall over in a windstorm
Check out Planting by the Blueprint.
You should check Bill Mollison Permaculture,foodforest cold climate,and Geof Lawton.
What about a border of landscape fabric covered with wood chips.
Which other more fruit trees or bushes you can grow in Sweden climate besides your mentioned apples,pears and plums? We in Slovakia can grow these: walnut, hazelnut, chestnut, cherry, black cherry, apricot, peach, greengage, sea buckthorn, quince, medlar (mespilus), blackberry, currant, gooseberry, raspberry, strawberry, chokeberry. Between larger trees can grow middle size trees and bushes as a understory.
Maybe an idea for the deer , we used to hang nylon stockings with human hair in it in between the fruit trees and we have no deer coming in it anymore . maybe you can try that
Greetings from Denmark
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
your welcome hope it helps keep me posted :D
just cover circles around the trees (2m radius) and fill the gaps between this circles later. after doing this the trees dont have to compete with gras.
Use a larger logs for your boarder barrier.
You should grow maple trees for syrup
If I were you with a forest at hand I would simply trench it out a bit and lay long logs end to end for a border. Sure the logs will decay over time but they will be easy to replace when needed. As for deer fencing. Some people swear by fencing in the area with fishing line! Google it.
Thanks.
Do you have dwarf trees or regular sized?
Are you considering building a root cellar ? Before refrigeration my grandpa had a root cellar in a hillside where you store up to 20 bushels of fruit + vegetables. They , the apples would last into the next summer. The walls where hand laid Rock in the beginning. That provides right humidity & temperature. Would this be a consideration ? Takes no electricity. Thoughts ?
those evil bunnies. my solution is a .22 and a crock pot lol
Nice one.
You didn't mention if you do any grafting of your trees. Which varieties have been the most Successful?
Can you show your blacksmith shop at some point please?
I the first 'Touring the Homestead' video I show it real quick. Not much left from the original blacksmith. Check it out.
Very interesting. Thanks for the video, I've really enjoyed your channel.
Off-topic do you have a generaror you use on the homestead? I'm going to need one.
Yes. We have a little 4 stroke Honda generator. I think it only has 2,1kw.
have you thought about growing mushrooms?
According the size of your orchard trees at first you have planted low strain trees. These types are good for quick onset of harvest and checking the taste, but for large quantity in high quality you need to extend your orchard with high strain trunk trees. While your tree are small you can plant between lines of trees everythink, after 10 or more year when the trees will stay high probably only grass and graze your herds.
The mesh or spiny thorns around the small tree trunk is good enough for protection, just since they grown. Fence is fully useless costs.
How do you identify which trees will be "high strain" trees.
Before buying you need to decide which type do you need. If small, middle, or tall trunk. Selling companies label it, just read or ask for information. Original root without cutting can tell a lot. Tall trunk trees use to have root as tall as the tree.
Thanks much. I guess in the states we label them differently according to their root stocks: standard, semi-dwarf, and dwarf. I understand now.