It was good to see the problem with the brown fire. So many idiots do the jobs without testing. This is why I love these videos because everything is explained in normal English. No BS. In a way, it is good for me, as I have a lot of work LOL. I do not use scotch grips and I use a gas solder iron and use it to heat shrink too. But that is why I am a mechanic and not a fitter and get paid a lot more
I really love the videos from bodgit and leggit garage and so many are helpful. I love the way that it is not BS. Glad it is not raining as many of my call outs have been or needed to be done in rain or cold
Absolutely Brilliant Discourse on how to wire in a Canbus Relay to a 7 pin trailer Tow Bar. Professionaly, eloquently and precisely explained! What a God Send. Keep up the good work 😊👍
Stumbled across your video whilst trying to get an insight into tow bar electrics with Can Bus and PCT ZR2500 Relay.Unfortunately the van I have purchased has tow electrics in camper gas locker, noT standard practise and I need to move or isolate so no potential electric current is within box. I have chosen to isolate as don't intend to use the electrics on tow bar at this time. My intention is to remove 12V live from car battery going to relay, this I believe would prevent signal current going to tow bar plug, however I believe there would still be a small current going to the PCT Relay from the light cluster connections? My plan is to break these connections at PCT relay tape and put back into pillar column and seal entry hole, this I am hoping will remove any electric current in gas locker. I would appreciate your thoughts on my methodology. Thank you for these informative videos most helpful. Can you provide link for your can bus wiring tester. Thank you
You don't need to increase the car fuse size for the lights, that's the job of the 7 way relay. The relay only samples the voltage on each wire, the 7 way relay then powers the trailer lights
Yes and increasing the fuse rating risks a wiring fire. Bad advice. If by some stretch of the imagination the current draw was too much you’d just swap some of the bulbs to led on the trailer. Never change the fuse. The main positive to the bypass should be fused as close as possible to the battery or on an existing unused circuit.
p.s.. 16:40 You talk of needing a HIGHER rated fuse in the circuits your car uses for various functions. YET that canbus "box" is merely a relay box - fed DIRECTLY from the battery (fused at the battery) which itself POWERS the various RELAY operated lights on the trailer. The RELAY for each circuit it controls - draws extremely low current from the "control" circuit .. ie: If the side/tail lamp circuit is powered ON (in the vehicle) and the canbus see's that 2 amp is drawn "normally' - it will NOT see the extra 20 mA that the relay coil draws. It will ALSO NOT see whatever amperage the trailer side marker lamps draw - as THEY draw current directly from the battery - via the relay contacts. That is the same for EACH of the six other circuits in the 7 pin flat plug. NO TRAILER LAMP CIRCUIT - draws any current from it's identical vehicle circuit - as ONLY a relay coil - draws current from them. Putting say a 15 A fuse on a normally 10A circuit - may cause a future problem to BURN OUT THE WIRING, long before the higher rated fuse blows. The "can-bus trailer BOX - is merely a box containing 6 relays for each of the six "control" circuits - the relays FEED directly into the trailer - via the battery fused wired.
first time i really got impress by you , the way you teach its fantastic and explained all ups and down so well in detail cant thanks to you , but really really good teacher , thanks a lot
I didn’t really see the part we’re you got the power source from the battery to the canbus box, so do you have to run a separate wire through the car to the battery?
Enjoy watching your video's thanks Going to give this a try myself. If my car has already got the harness as factory but I've already brought the universal kit. Can you power the harness with a 15a fuse and get the power supply form there instead of running the cable to the battery?
How can i know if my car has canbus? I have renault clio 2 (2002), and i bought used towbar, now i dont know if i can just directly connect the wires or do i need that extra electric box u showed
Great Video, Thanks for sharing!! Can I ask you what kind of tester you are using to see which wires are live? Is it something special because of the canbus system? Thanks again,Jim.
thanks bod for showing us all this right the way through from fitting towbar its really helpfull ive recently got a focus and it will be one of the jobs ,just prpping for mot all new front suspension done .rear brakes to do and when mot gonna source a cheap towbar ,keep up the good work Ant from sunny Wales
Hi , on my grand cmax ive got a fuse box near the left rear lights and a big red permanet live feed there, could i put the inline fuse red wire to this instead of going to the battery ?
Hi, I enjoy your videos and thanks for posting. I am about to wire a towbar on my 2011 Toyota Avensis which has the Canbus wiring. My concern is I have a car trailer ( 1 year old ) with LED lighting and I also tow a boat trailer with the old conventual wiring. Do I need to have any additional fittings to cater for old and new trailer wiring systems being hooked up to my 7 pin socket. Thanks in advance.
that thing you drilled a hole for is a rivnut,if you have a 12 volt socket in the boot why not use that instead of running a cable all the way to the battery?
If the live feed is direct from the battery why do you need to start to car to check it’s got power ?. Surely it will be under constant load ?. (I ask as I’m trying to get my head around wether it needs to be switched )
Hi can you tell me why my relay makes a constant buzzing when I switch it on is it because I’ve not got the other wires from relay to the lights yet cheeer
Hi mate ,have question urgently. The tail light wire on my picasso has 2 wires ,so do I need to connect to both or just one. Also my brake light has 2 wires ,so do I need to connect both to the relay or just one wire. Also I read that the battery should be disconnected whilst connecting everything in ? And do I need to disconnet the minus of the battery when connecting in a fuse and positive wire to it.
Hi mate are you sure they are both positive wires? Are they left and right as long as you've got one good connection that's all that really matters just make sure you connect the right wire to the right pin it's like everything always best to disconnect the battery but this can cause other problems with radio codes and functions
Very interesting job well-done the tool you cannot remember the name of it called "Rivet Gun". You need to explain the tools you are using and it is very important. Wonderful explanation. Thanks ! The boring job taking the wire from back to the battery is more important for learners.
Hi, what is that electrical tester? I can't find anything like it on amazon. They all seem to be for AC circuits or require an earth connection as well, whereas yours just looks like it has one connection to the wire.
Daniel Moore the one I was using in this video I have done it all review on it it does have a wire connected to it ua-cam.com/video/CPRJX7Hc6SM/v-deo.html I also have one with no wires connected to it but that's not what I use in this video
first of all great videos pal. i have been avoiding fitting towbars to can bus wired cars di you no what this box does and do these boxes work on all cars with can bus? keep the great videos coming!!!
Mark harriers hi mates whatever you get it from just ask them if it is compatible with your vehicle there are some differences and some vehicles need special ones if you are getting it from your local Motor Factors just give him your number plates and they will advise you which is the best one to get as regards fitting them they're all more or less the same hope this helps thanks for watching
Mark harriers I know it's annoying hiding the wires from the back to the front book trust me it is best direct to the battery to the box you will have no problem doing it this way
hi mate I would only get it from the battery if I was you I know it's may be annoying friend in the wires through but honestly it is the best way to do you will not have any problems if you do it this way I can only advise you to get it on the battery but it's up to you what you want to do hope this helps thanks for watching don't forget get your hands dirty
There is more than likely no power to the 12v aux unless ignition is on, so if you were to stop on road and wanted to park with trailer/caravan leaving side or park lights on for safety, the 12v would have no power to it therefore no lights through relay to whatever is being towed.
Hi...can I pick Your brain?! My trailer lights, indicators, brake lights and side lights all work when I plug it up to the 7 pin socket on my car. When I attach the trailer on to the tow ball and still plugged in, the side and rear lights on the trailer flicker and go out, however brake and indicators still work. I have noticed the towbar is a bit rusty. Would you have an idea what the problem may be? Thanks
Tony Potter hi mate you're gonna have to go through the whole trailer there's obviously a bad Earth somewhere on the trailer all the wires are a thing of the body somewhere
Because the most modern cars all these units are controlled by the BCM if they see any voltage spikes high current drawers or anything like that they would just shut down this unit has to be powered completely separately to make it work properly like I explained in the video you can cause a lot of damage by doing this incorrectly the safest and best way is to come straight from the battery with the correct size wire
I have received a much thinner red wire with my relay, that looks to be fitted to the same fatter fuse wire and holder as seen in video. Do you advise that the thin wire should be fine for this application or should go with the thicker 2 core 17.5 amp wire?
You dont upgrade the fuses when using this canbus box. The box is a bunch of relays and this negates the need to change the fuse. Heat shrink soldered connecters are tidier and make a better, weather proof connection. The name of the threaded rivet is "threaded inserts".
Hi bought a second hand unit and someone supplied with a canbus relay system I have wired it all into lighting for each colour and tap into brown wire on car for ground and a 12v power but seems the relay isnt going anything. Why??
hi mate you're going to have to go through all your wiring connections again and if you are concerned just get a 12-volt power source and directly power it up out of the car and see if it works but second-hand units like this is never a good idea
hi mate you need to go to the Volts section and select 20 volts as you're only working on 12 volts this will be perfect for what hope that helps thanks for watching don't forget to get your hands dirty
+bodgit and leggit garage sorry just a quick question again sorry. when working out which wire is for what. where do I put the black and red probes? (sorry stupid question, I know :( )
+kai brown hi mate no such thing as a stupid question just stupid people lol the black probe goes on the Earth and the red probe goes on the wire you are testing so in other words why you are trying to find which is live
Scotchloks in damp environments are so prone to failure or even fail before first use. Put them in the bin. Solder and heat shrink instead then you can forget that blue rats nest!!!
everything has their place I always solder and heat shrink and use vulcanising tape as well as liquid tape when I'm doing solar joints on wires however when you are doing trailers there is really no need to do this I have been doing this for a long time and never once have I had any come back in over 15 years on any Scottish lochs I have done on trailer tow bars it all depends where you are in the world I suppose but I've never had an issue with doing it where I am
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Fair comment - You must be using the correct colour coded Scotchlok for the size of wire. Over the decades when I complained to 3M their findings were that a lot of users simply used the blue ones and fitting kit suppliers tended to issue them without considering the wire size. I'm not having a go.. I think your vids are good hearted and informative!!
hi as far as I'm concerned you don't need to remove the rear lights you can get the connections for both lights on the left hand side inside the boot you seem to make it much harder than it is ive been fitting tow bars on cars for years my way is much easier and better i would check this out it will be easier for you the tool you used is called a rivet nut tool i use these always if possible
They`re ok as is, if in an area devoid of damp/humidity.To use externally you can use a tiny paintbrush to cover with petroleum jelly...or some-such similar protection. I`ve run motorcycles for donkey`s years and although I don`t use Scotchlocks? on them,the wiring is much more exposed as you can imagine.Even though I`ve run several Italian bikes that were/are always touted as having bad electrics,I never had a problem because I used petroleum jelly(oo-er missus)
I was told many years ago that it would cause problems using petroleum jelly by actually insulating electrical connections,but I`ve found that not to be so.Have assembled many motorcycle handlebar switches,and multi-pin connectors with it,the spring pressure and sliding action and friction connection with male-female connectors,maintain electrical contact. Last month I stripped out the wiring and connectors on a 1992 trail bike that had a misfire and other electrical issues.. Replaced badly corroded wires and connectors and cleaned up remaining male&female connectors within large plastic connector blocks,assembled with petroleum jelly and all`s well....and should be for many years.
Scotchlocks... The work of the devil. Also you should have taken the two tail light feeds separately from each side so that when you leave parking lights on the trailers parking lights work properly and not light both sides.
I can't belive you have used scotchlock's, they are about as reliable to use as just twisting the wires together!! why not solder and heat shrink the joints and do the job properly
not in a can bus wired car you can do a lot of damage if you put heat into can bus wiring and these are inside not outside so they're not too bad I would never use Scotch locks outside
+bodgit and leggit garage Can't see any reason why you'd have heat problems with heat in CAN bus wiring, unless they were really hefty cables and you were putting lots of heat into them near a plastic connector. If anything I'd say you're more likely to short something out if you're using an earthed soldering iron. That or the system doesn't like the wires being disconnected.
+ben hunter that's why I use Scotch locks better to be safe than sorry you never know Anything Could Happen Cross or anything and then you're in the shit
I think if it was me, I'd disconnect the battery and work backwards from the light clusters to work out which wire is which and solder and heatshrink with glue tube to make it waterproof. I've had nothing but trouble with scotchlocks causing intermittent connections. One nice thing about my Vectra is that it's got a heavy power cable and fuse box already in the boot for the body control module, so you can just take light power from that. There's a blank fuse holder and connection specifically for tow-bar electrics.
If at 1st you can't succeed. Don't worry ... Put your whole body between the work & the camera lens and just "talk" about what you are doing. Oh - you wanted to SHOW people what you were doing? Well fat lot of good that video is then isn't it.. Your body is mostly "always" between the lens & the work.
obviously I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about that's why this car is still working absolutely perfectly let me watch your expert video on how to do it oh no wait you're just another UA-cam comment wanker who thinks he knows what he's talking about an has absolutely no idea I'm really looking forward to your response I bet it's going to be something like well I've been trained by the best I've been doing this for years I've been doing this typical response from people like you
It was good to see the problem with the brown fire. So many idiots do the jobs without testing. This is why I love these videos because everything is explained in normal English. No BS. In a way, it is good for me, as I have a lot of work LOL. I do not use scotch grips and I use a gas solder iron and use it to heat shrink too. But that is why I am a mechanic and not a fitter and get paid a lot more
Hi do you need to run separate 2.0mm cables to the battery 1 for the caravan side and one for the bypass relay?
Thanks
I really love the videos from bodgit and leggit garage and so many are helpful. I love the way that it is not BS. Glad it is not raining as many of my call outs have been or needed to be done in rain or cold
Thanks for the video mate. Really helpful, especially for a Cavan man who doesn't want to pay a mechanic!
Joel Marcus lol glad it help you mate
Absolutely Brilliant Discourse on how to wire in a Canbus Relay to a 7 pin trailer Tow Bar. Professionaly, eloquently and precisely explained! What a God Send. Keep up the good work 😊👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Stumbled across your video whilst trying to get an insight into tow bar electrics with Can Bus and PCT ZR2500 Relay.Unfortunately the van I have purchased has tow electrics in camper gas locker, noT standard practise and I need to move or isolate so no potential electric current is within box. I have chosen to isolate as don't intend to use the electrics on tow bar at this time. My intention is to remove 12V live from car battery going to relay, this I believe would prevent signal current going to tow bar plug, however I believe there would still be a small current going to the PCT Relay from the light cluster connections? My plan is to break these connections at PCT relay tape and put back into pillar column and seal entry hole, this I am hoping will remove any electric current in gas locker. I would appreciate your thoughts on my methodology. Thank you for these informative videos most helpful. Can you provide link for your can bus wiring tester. Thank you
You don't need to increase the car fuse size for the lights, that's the job of the 7 way relay. The relay only samples the voltage on each wire, the 7 way relay then powers the trailer lights
Yes and increasing the fuse rating risks a wiring fire. Bad advice. If by some stretch of the imagination the current draw was too much you’d just swap some of the bulbs to led on the trailer. Never change the fuse. The main positive to the bypass should be fused as close as possible to the battery or on an existing unused circuit.
And if you know your increasing the load, why wouldn't you wire the left and right circuits separately???
Correct, you should never increase the rating of the fuse. Its easy to test the current draw at the fuse, but the channel is called Bodgit and Leggit.
p.s..
16:40
You talk of needing a HIGHER rated fuse in the circuits your car uses for various functions.
YET that canbus "box" is merely a relay box - fed DIRECTLY from the battery (fused at the battery) which itself POWERS the various RELAY operated lights on the trailer.
The RELAY for each circuit it controls - draws extremely low current from the "control" circuit ..
ie:
If the side/tail lamp circuit is powered ON (in the vehicle) and the canbus see's that 2 amp is drawn "normally' - it will NOT see the extra 20 mA that the relay coil draws.
It will ALSO NOT see whatever amperage the trailer side marker lamps draw - as THEY draw current directly from the battery - via the relay contacts.
That is the same for EACH of the six other circuits in the 7 pin flat plug.
NO TRAILER LAMP CIRCUIT - draws any current from it's identical vehicle circuit - as ONLY a relay coil - draws current from them.
Putting say a 15 A fuse on a normally 10A circuit - may cause a future problem to BURN OUT THE WIRING, long before the higher rated fuse blows.
The "can-bus trailer BOX - is merely a box containing 6 relays for each of the six "control" circuits - the relays FEED directly into the trailer - via the battery fused wired.
first time i really got impress by you , the way you teach its fantastic and explained all ups and down so well in detail cant thanks to you , but really really good teacher , thanks a lot
Absolutely Brilliant Discourse, professional, detailed and eloquently
thanks mate
your vw golf cam belt fitting instructions made the job so much easier i never done one before but i managed it was so helpful with video
thx mate
I didn’t really see the part we’re you got the power source from the battery to the canbus box, so do you have to run a separate wire through the car to the battery?
Enjoy watching your video's thanks Going to give this a try myself. If my car has already got the harness as factory but I've already brought the universal kit. Can you power the harness with a 15a fuse and get the power supply form there instead of running the cable to the battery?
How can i know if my car has canbus? I have renault clio 2 (2002), and i bought used towbar, now i dont know if i can just directly connect the wires or do i need that extra electric box u showed
Great Video, Thanks for sharing!! Can I ask you what kind of tester you are using to see which wires are live? Is it something special because of the canbus system?
Thanks again,Jim.
thanks bod for showing us all this right the way through from fitting towbar its really helpfull ive recently got a focus and it will be one of the jobs ,just prpping for mot all new front suspension done .rear brakes to do and when mot gonna source a cheap towbar ,keep up the good work Ant from sunny Wales
Thanks a lot mate much appreciated I'm glad it's helped you that's what it's all about
Hi , on my grand cmax ive got a fuse box near the left rear lights and a big red permanet live feed there, could i put the inline fuse red wire to this instead of going to the battery ?
Excellent video very helpful.
Answers all the questions
Hi, I enjoy your videos and thanks for posting. I am about to wire a towbar on my 2011 Toyota Avensis which has the Canbus wiring. My concern is I have a car trailer ( 1 year old ) with LED lighting and I also tow a boat trailer with the old conventual wiring. Do I need to have any additional fittings to cater for old and new trailer wiring systems being hooked up to my 7 pin socket. Thanks in advance.
Hi I have a 2008 mondeo titanium x estate. I’ve been told I need a Ford trailer module. Would you know if that’s true ?
Hi mate no you do not you just need one compatible with your vehicle you can get them from any motor factors
How do I know if my car need can bus box for the tow bar wires?
that thing you drilled a hole for is a rivnut,if you have a 12 volt socket in the boot why not use that instead of running a cable all the way to the battery?
If the live feed is direct from the battery why do you need to start to car to check it’s got power ?. Surely it will be under constant load ?.
(I ask as I’m trying to get my head around wether it needs to be switched )
Hi can you tell me why my relay makes a constant buzzing when I switch it on is it because I’ve not got the other wires from relay to the lights yet cheeer
Hi mate ,have question urgently. The tail light wire on my picasso has 2 wires ,so do I need to connect to both or just one. Also my brake light has 2 wires ,so do I need to connect both to the relay or just one wire. Also I read that the battery should be disconnected whilst connecting everything in ? And do I need to disconnet the minus of the battery when connecting in a fuse and positive wire to it.
Hi mate are you sure they are both positive wires? Are they left and right as long as you've got one good connection that's all that really matters just make sure you connect the right wire to the right pin it's like everything always best to disconnect the battery but this can cause other problems with radio codes and functions
Could you not use the 12v socket as your 12v supply to the relay
The special thing is called a rivnut or thats what I call them anyway 😉
Great helpful video cheers👍
Keep bodging
Very interesting job well-done the tool you cannot remember the name of it called "Rivet Gun". You need to explain the tools you are using and it is very important. Wonderful explanation. Thanks ! The boring job taking the wire from back to the battery is more important for learners.
Syed Tauseef Abbas thanks mate and thanks for watching thank you for the comments I will certainly put this to use
So we’re do you run the wire to the battery?
CanBus box?? When were the CANBUS wires connected? Seen the video 3 times and can´t find it.
What does the canbus module do?
After installing my towbar electrics, I have no indicator light on the dash, any ideas?
What length wire would I need from battery? I have a Citroen C3 Picasso 2011.
You know your stuff,I wouldn't know where to start with electrics well done good video both parts
Thanks mate thanks for watching
Hi, what is that electrical tester? I can't find anything like it on amazon. They all seem to be for AC circuits or require an earth connection as well, whereas yours just looks like it has one connection to the wire.
Daniel Moore the one I was using in this video I have done it all review on it it does have a wire connected to it ua-cam.com/video/CPRJX7Hc6SM/v-deo.html
I also have one with no wires connected to it but that's not what I use in this video
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Thats not the one you used here. 19:55
Yup, I was about to ask the same. 'Been meaning to for a week or so now. The one you used at the 19:55 mark.
On the video it shows one fused wire at the battery. But in the boot you connect two from the front!
Have I missed a part on this video?
Great tow bar videos man, made it look easy.
+James Mullen thanks mate and thanks for watching
where abouts are you located i though UK but then you said Euros but cars are RHD , confused lol it is Gibraltar ?
cagmito76 hi mate I am in ireland
ah that explains is , thanks mate .
first of all great videos pal. i have been avoiding fitting towbars to can bus wired cars di you no what this box does and do these boxes work on all cars with can bus?
keep the great videos coming!!!
Mark harriers hi mates whatever you get it from just ask them if it is compatible with your vehicle there are some differences and some vehicles need special ones if you are getting it from your local Motor Factors just give him your number plates and they will advise you which is the best one to get as regards fitting them they're all more or less the same hope this helps thanks for watching
Many thanks pal is it best to wire 12s plug straight ti battery and how bout the fridge wire? Loads of my m8s been watching ur videos :)
Mark harriers I know it's annoying hiding the wires from the back to the front book trust me it is best direct to the battery to the box you will have no problem doing it this way
You make an easy job look hard mate Jesus
thank you, very well explained.
thanks mate
Love whatching your videos, well documented, great guy, Thanks
Gary Cooper thanks a lot mate much appreciated
I found this a bit late. Cheers mate!
THAT TOOL IS ALMOST LIKE A THREADED NUT RIVETER LEON.NOT A LOVER OF SCOTCH LOCKS BUT IT GOT THE JOB DONE. WOW (LIKE IM SHOUTING LOL )
I know I don't like Scotch locks either Catch 22 really thanks for watching mate
Can i not take the power from the 12v ciggy light above where your fitting it as trying to feed the wire from the battery is driving me nuts!!!
hi mate I would only get it from the battery if I was you I know it's may be annoying friend in the wires through but honestly it is the best way to do you will not have any problems if you do it this way I can only advise you to get it on the battery but it's up to you what you want to do hope this helps thanks for watching don't forget get your hands dirty
Hi great video very clear
Does the ecu need to be reprogramed after fitting the tow bar electrics ?
no mate it's just wiring and forget about it on these type of cars thanks for watching
Why not use the back 12V aux connection right in front of you for power to the can box ? It's not switched as far as I know .... I could be wrong ....
There is more than likely no power to the 12v aux unless ignition is on, so if you were to stop on road and wanted to park with trailer/caravan leaving side or park lights on for safety, the 12v would have no power to it therefore no lights through relay to whatever is being towed.
If you used a standard phase tester to begin why did you need a can bus combatible tester later
what part of the vid did i swap tester
@@bodgitandleggitgarage hi it was at 24 mins wiring the fog light
@@wahey70 that is not a different tester to what I was using I explained in the first part of the video this was a canbus safe tester
True but did you not say that about the blue one the small one with the red light is just a standard one 🤔
@@wahey70 no I did not say that at all
Hi...can I pick
Your brain?!
My trailer lights, indicators, brake lights and side lights all work when I plug it up to the 7 pin socket on my car. When I attach the trailer on to the tow ball and still plugged in, the side and rear lights on the trailer flicker and go out, however brake and indicators still work. I have noticed the towbar is a bit rusty. Would you have an idea what the problem may be? Thanks
Tony Potter hi mate you're gonna have to go through the whole trailer there's obviously a bad Earth somewhere on the trailer all the wires are a thing of the body somewhere
Do you need electric harness to wire a tow bar on a Peugeot 206s registered 2006April
You would need a Cambus Relay if that is what you mean.
Thanks for the vid but what if I have LED lights what do I do with the C2?
Hi mate you just need to get the correct box for your car if you go into any tow bar specialist they will give you what you need
Why didn't you use the 12v plug in the boot for your power supply?
Because the most modern cars all these units are controlled by the BCM if they see any voltage spikes high current drawers or anything like that they would just shut down this unit has to be powered completely separately to make it work properly like I explained in the video you can cause a lot of damage by doing this incorrectly the safest and best way is to come straight from the battery with the correct size wire
what size cable is used from the battery to the 7 way bypass
hi mate I use 2 core 17.5 amp wire hope this helps thanks for watching get your hands dirty
I have received a much thinner red wire with my relay, that looks to be fitted to the same fatter fuse wire and holder as seen in video. Do you advise that the thin wire should be fine for this application or should go with the thicker 2 core 17.5 amp wire?
you make it look easy :) thank you
thanks mate
Great presentation. Good clear instructions, Competent Diyer cant go wrong, Save yourself a fortune, Well done. *************
wow thanks mate
Legend thanks 😊
the pct box , c2 for led lights ??? how connect
How do I tell if the wiring is canbus on my car?
what are the easiest ways to do it is just Google it or ask your local garage
You dont upgrade the fuses when using this canbus box. The box is a bunch of relays and this negates the need to change the fuse. Heat shrink soldered connecters are tidier and make a better, weather proof connection.
The name of the threaded rivet is "threaded inserts".
I was really impressed until the scotch locks came in to play 😂 thanks for the video anyway
🤣🤣😁😘
very well explained tks
Thanks mate and thanks for watching
+bodgit and leggit garage are you on fb
+Jim Goose yes check the description
+bodgit and leggit garage going to ask you about a car
+Jim Goose I pm.ed on fb
do you need a fuse between the battery and the relay box?
andy0p0 you need to watch Part1 and 3 it explains everything
yes
Hi bought a second hand unit and someone supplied with a canbus relay system I have wired it all into lighting for each colour and tap into brown wire on car for ground and a 12v power but seems the relay isnt going anything. Why??
hi mate you're going to have to go through all your wiring connections again and if you are concerned just get a 12-volt power source and directly power it up out of the car and see if it works but second-hand units like this is never a good idea
@@bodgitandleggitgarage
Sure it's an Astra H. Unsure if it's a faulty power supply or the relay unit as second hand
Very helpful top man
Glad it helped
how would i do this using a multi-meter.
hi mate you need to go to the Volts section and select 20 volts as you're only working on 12 volts this will be perfect for what hope that helps thanks for watching don't forget to get your hands dirty
+bodgit and leggit garage hi mate. thanks for the reply :) ok buddy will do.. thank you. :)
+kai brown anytime mate glad I can help
+bodgit and leggit garage sorry just a quick question again sorry. when working out which wire is for what. where do I put the black and red probes? (sorry stupid question, I know :( )
+kai brown hi mate no such thing as a stupid question just stupid people lol the black probe goes on the Earth and the red probe goes on the wire you are testing so in other words why you are trying to find which is live
Scotchloks in damp environments are so prone to failure or even fail before first use. Put them in the bin. Solder and heat shrink instead then you can forget that blue rats nest!!!
everything has their place I always solder and heat shrink and use vulcanising tape as well as liquid tape when I'm doing solar joints on wires however when you are doing trailers there is really no need to do this I have been doing this for a long time and never once have I had any come back in over 15 years on any Scottish lochs I have done on trailer tow bars it all depends where you are in the world I suppose but I've never had an issue with doing it where I am
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Fair comment - You must be using the correct colour coded Scotchlok for the size of wire. Over the decades when I complained to 3M their findings were that a lot of users simply used the blue ones and fitting kit suppliers tended to issue them without considering the wire size. I'm not having a go.. I think your vids are good hearted and informative!!
can you not try flexi conduit to put the cabling in , electrician speaking ha
Hi where can I get the box from ?
Can anyone Tel me if I can run power from the box to a light instead of going all the way to the battery cheers
Bit late, but no! The point is to avoid drawing power from the car ligjts as it can mess things up
@@partiallyt660 already done it used it quite a few times and had no problem cheers
hi as far as I'm concerned you don't need to remove the rear lights you can get the connections for both lights on the left hand side inside the boot you seem to make it much harder than it is ive been fitting tow bars on cars for years my way is much easier and better i would check this out it will be easier for you the tool you used is called a rivet nut tool i use these always if possible
Have you got a video?
cant find part one?
They are all in a playlist very easy to find
ua-cam.com/play/PLqGZyNJMI5DBacyP6rqvDLgUDVKq-SvVo.html
SCOTCH LOCKS ...NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .NO NO .
They`re ok as is, if in an area devoid of damp/humidity.To use externally you can use a tiny paintbrush to cover with petroleum jelly...or some-such similar protection.
I`ve run motorcycles for donkey`s years and although I don`t use Scotchlocks? on them,the wiring is much more exposed as you can imagine.Even though I`ve run several Italian bikes that were/are always touted as having bad electrics,I never had a problem because I used petroleum jelly(oo-er missus)
I was told many years ago that it would cause problems using petroleum jelly by actually insulating electrical connections,but I`ve found that not to be so.Have assembled many motorcycle handlebar switches,and multi-pin connectors with it,the spring pressure and sliding action and friction connection with male-female connectors,maintain electrical contact.
Last month I stripped out the wiring and connectors on a 1992 trail bike that had a misfire and other electrical issues.. Replaced badly corroded wires and connectors and cleaned up remaining male&female connectors within large plastic connector blocks,assembled with petroleum jelly and all`s well....and should be for many years.
They should be banned
@@Clicksystems they are fine soldering wire messy to permanent if you ever want to remove ie rental car
What instead then please?
Scotchlocks... The work of the devil. Also you should have taken the two tail light feeds separately from each side so that when you leave parking lights on the trailers parking lights work properly and not light both sides.
I turned off when he took out scotch locks 😂 imagine paying a garage to use those 😮
Not a fan of scotch locks. They just go in the bin.
Just like everything they have their use video's 5 years old car still going strong absolutist no problem whatsoever
off to this job tomorrow, thank you Big Man!
Glad you enjoyed the video glad it's going to help you have fun mate
bodgit and leggit garage hi can I not run a wire from the box to a light power instead of going all the way to the bat thanks
What is that box?
electrical things lol
It's called a "rivnut"
I can't belive you have used scotchlock's, they are about as reliable to use as just twisting the wires together!! why not solder and heat shrink the joints and do the job properly
not in a can bus wired car you can do a lot of damage if you put heat into can bus wiring and these are inside not outside so they're not too bad I would never use Scotch locks outside
+bodgit and leggit garage Can't see any reason why you'd have heat problems with heat in CAN bus wiring, unless they were really hefty cables and you were putting lots of heat into them near a plastic connector. If anything I'd say you're more likely to short something out if you're using an earthed soldering iron. That or the system doesn't like the wires being disconnected.
+ben hunter that's why I use Scotch locks better to be safe than sorry you never know Anything Could Happen Cross or anything and then you're in the shit
I think if it was me, I'd disconnect the battery and work backwards from the light clusters to work out which wire is which and solder and heatshrink with glue tube to make it waterproof. I've had nothing but trouble with scotchlocks causing intermittent connections. One nice thing about my Vectra is that it's got a heavy power cable and fuse box already in the boot for the body control module, so you can just take light power from that. There's a blank fuse holder and connection specifically for tow-bar electrics.
It’s a riv nut
Scotchlok connectors - really????
A threaded rivit tool for www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/threaded-rivet-insert-tool as an exabple
That tool is a rivnut gun
The dreaded scotchlock I hate those thing and I’m a diy guy
Think it’s called a rivnut in the uk
rive nuts
If at 1st you can't succeed.
Don't worry ...
Put your whole body between the work & the camera lens and just "talk" about what you are doing.
Oh - you wanted to SHOW people what you were doing?
Well fat lot of good that video is then isn't it..
Your body is mostly "always" between the lens & the work.
Rivnuts
Rivnut
38:45 I thought that noise was sparks from the live.
lol
Clearly no idea what you are doing or what you are talking about...
Not even talking about you combining the left and right taillight!
obviously I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about that's why this car is still working absolutely perfectly let me watch your expert video on how to do it oh no wait you're just another UA-cam comment wanker who thinks he knows what he's talking about an has absolutely no idea
I'm really looking forward to your response I bet it's going to be something like well I've been trained by the best I've been doing this for years I've been doing this typical response from people like you
Can I use a multi meter with can bus wiring ?
Yes mate all I can say is use a good quality multimeter
Rivnut
Yes yes yes yes lol