Couple of things I wish I would have addressed during filming: The drums in the rear have adjusters to pull the shoes in to make drum removal easier, and I didn't show that, but it doesn't always help on old drums with grooves worn in. The reason the seal being stuck was interesting was because the bearing got hung up and the seal wouldn't give. Usually the seal and bearing pop right off. I didn't think that was clear enough in the vid. The reason I am reusing the front leafs for now is because the lift springs are still delayed in shipping and I needed to be able to roll the chassis around.
I put the Dana 60 front in my 1970 ford f250 and am having a heck of a time figuring out how the brake lines attach to the caliber. Do you have any pictures?
Bad ass I just scored on a 1979 f250 supercab 4x4 XLT ranger with factory Dana 60 front axle. California truck zero rust and straight got it from original owner. I would love to do all these upgrades. Thanks for the video
@@AustinCoulson yeah and I got it for $3500 😂 the owner passed away RIP but the brother didnt care and just wanted to get rid of it so thank God I got that deal and thats hard to find at that price from what I’ve been researching
"Somebody's been in here" Bro it's a 40+ year old axle, I'd be stunned if somebody HADN'T. Good vid though, super informative. I have a '79 dodge rear 60 that I'm gonna convert to disks with the Lugnut kit 🤘🤘
Austin you did an amazing job on this video talking us through all the steps. Im working on my own 79 F-350 and this will be very helpful when doing my brakes & bearings. Thank you & I look forward to following this build.
I Kno I'm super late on commenting lol but super cool video super informative.ive been needing a video like this 2 do rear break conversion on my 78 Ford f250.tgank u so much! 😎
Spent several years working on dump trucks and frequently had to replace wheel studs. A good air hammer with a tapered punch is way easier than wrestling those big heavy hubs onto a press. If you do have to use a hammer be careful when re-installing the studs it's pretty easy to screw up the snap ring groove in the end of the hub.
Manual locking hubs are locked before needing to engage 4Hi. When the hubs are locked, shifting into and out of 4Hi can be done at any speed. In the mid '80s I lived in the Chicago area and I had a '78 IH Scout II. I would lock the hubs on Thanksgiving and unlock them around Easter. On my way to work around sunrise I had to drive over a mile long bridge on US 45 over the Sanitary and Ship Canal. If the temperature was below freezing, that bridge would be frozen, while the rest of the road was dry. I would just pull the Transfer Case lever into 4Hi before crossing the bridge and push it back to 2Hi after crossing. I didn't need 4 wheel drive going home in the late afternoon. Guy Franks
I work on semi's for a living so I wish i only had to torque the inner to 50 ftlbs haha. The inners I do have a set torque to 200 then you back it up and then go 50. And the outer locking nut is between 200-400ftlbs (depending on the style). To answer your question the hub rides on what's called the spindle so you were right.
That would explain why one in the front and one in the rear are different, except that the different studs are on opposite sides. I have been confused by LHT on Internationals, but I don't remember Ford trucks using them.
My 1963 oldsmobile 98 also had left hand studs on the drivers side . And I think late 1960s early 1970s Plymouth dusters had left handed on the passenger side. There has sure never been good reasoning other than I read once they thought the left hand thread should keep the nuts tighter. Yet why different cars and different sides makes no sense
Yeah only a few years on f350's. They had a brainwave and thought it might help with them somehow reversing out with the torque lol. I had the same issue with my single cab 350. I guess they got tired of apprentices in workshops firing them further in and snapping them! Awesome build, and in my eyes you're doing it just right, especially with the subtle repairs. Are you on IG? I've done some similair things with mine reference dent pulling. I pulled the 460 out for something else though lol.
Nice work, you should never hit a hammer with another hammer however as the hardened surfaces can break off when struck. Learned this years ago in a aviation maintenance hand tools class.
Easy-Peasy... Use a torque wrench for the right hand thread, and use a breaker bar with the same force for left hand threads, or buy a torque wrench that uses a indicator rather than a click type. They are much less expensive and easy to calibrate with an old set of weights on the handle to see where the pointed indicator stops, or catch SnapOn and use the calibrator which is mounted in the truck. If I ever drop a torque wrench, it got a calibration check next week.
Sometimes you have to back off the brake adjuster w/a screw driver reaching through backing plate to ratchet self adjuster to be shorter. U may have reach in w/ second small screw driver to push self adjuster away from self adjuster, then brake drum will slide off if the shoes have worn grooves in drum..
Modify the HF press into a desk top press, then get a higher capacity press for the floor. 90% of the time you will appreciate the desktop version as you can set it at a usable work height.
I'm willing to bet the reason why the studs were different on the drivers side is because these trucks left the factory with left hand threaded wheel studs on the driver's side. At some point in this truck's life, the drivers side studs were switched over to right hand thread.
Thank you Austin can you direct me into the right direction on what you used in that hole disc break system. I would like do the same to y 1976 f350. Thank you so much Robert stiles ps the best video I've seen in a long time thank you again.
Hey Austin great video on The rear Disc brake conversion. I just did the same thing on my 1971 Ford F250. My question for you is did you ever get the parking brake to work? My rear brakes work great but the parking brake does not hold my truck. I’m wondering what your results were.
E-stopp makes an electric parking brake that works really well if you can't get enough force out of the stock brake lever. I used it on the pizza truck I built and loved it.
I had another question I have a 1977 Ford F-250 and it has a proportioning valve and I’m interested in doing the disc brakes conversion did you use the proportioning valve?
Cool deal. Just a FYI the GM style calipers with the parking brake function is kind of a crappy design. They tend to drag if not adjusted properly. I don’t want to rain of your parade but the drums actually work better for parking. Big rigs still use them. The better version would be swapping a dana or sterling from a super duty. Thanks.
I agree on the parking brake setup being better on the drums. I always use the example of big rigs when people question the abilities of drums overall, but in this case we were willing to drop the capabilities of the parking brake in order to have the reduced weight and overall efficiency of discs out back. We just didn't want to be without any parking brake feature at all.
I intend to use a “hydraulic lock” for my parking brakes. Will route rear brake line to valve in cab where parking brake release lever is currently installed. Will get rid of parking brake cables entirely as well as removing foot release pedal from cab interior. Push brake pedal, turn valve, brakes are hydraulically locked on. Release lever, brakes are off. Simple and clean set up. Only issue is routing of lines but with good tube bender you can get the job done.
That's a great question, and we did look into that but they didn't use left hand threads that year, and to make it even stranger, the longer studs were on opposite sides of the front and rear.
I show it in the next episode, but it's the 8" Summit PB and the Summit MC that looks like the Wilwood one with the built in adjustable proportioning valve.
I have used those before, but didn't have the ability to add a parking brake as the rotors were designed with the inner drum parking brake. Is there a way to add a parking brake with that setup?
Couple of things I wish I would have addressed during filming:
The drums in the rear have adjusters to pull the shoes in to make drum removal easier, and I didn't show that, but it doesn't always help on old drums with grooves worn in.
The reason the seal being stuck was interesting was because the bearing got hung up and the seal wouldn't give. Usually the seal and bearing pop right off. I didn't think that was clear enough in the vid.
The reason I am reusing the front leafs for now is because the lift springs are still delayed in shipping and I needed to be able to roll the chassis around.
I put the Dana 60 front in my 1970 ford f250 and am having a heck of a time figuring out how the brake lines attach to the caliber. Do you have any pictures?
Bad ass I just scored on a 1979 f250 supercab 4x4 XLT ranger with factory Dana 60 front axle. California truck zero rust and straight got it from original owner. I would love to do all these upgrades. Thanks for the video
Dang, what a find
@@AustinCoulson yeah and I got it for $3500 😂 the owner passed away RIP but the brother didnt care and just wanted to get rid of it so thank God I got that deal and thats hard to find at that price from what I’ve been researching
This is one fantastic video brother. You really show it all. Now I cab put the rear disc brake conversion on my 19 Ford.
"Somebody's been in here"
Bro it's a 40+ year old axle, I'd be stunned if somebody HADN'T.
Good vid though, super informative. I have a '79 dodge rear 60 that I'm gonna convert to disks with the Lugnut kit 🤘🤘
Austin you did an amazing job on this video talking us through all the steps. Im working on my own 79 F-350 and this will be very helpful when doing my brakes & bearings. Thank you & I look forward to following this build.
Love your vids, Great😊 little on the light side with the bearing grease thou😊
Thank you so much. I have been trying to find a vid for this axle. Perfect level of detail!
Thanks for putting me on to death toll racing. Also, if this was a crew cab it be my dream truck. Either way I'm watching this build
This thing is coming along! Client is going to have a bad ass truck.
Brake studs lead-ins are for single wheel - dual-wheels no lead in for more engagement. I did equipment maintenance for an oil field service company.
I Kno I'm super late on commenting lol but super cool video super informative.ive been needing a video like this 2 do rear break conversion on my 78 Ford f250.tgank u so much! 😎
I highly recommend this kit, the stopping power is vastly improved over stock
Spent several years working on dump trucks and frequently had to replace wheel studs. A good air hammer with a tapered punch is way easier than wrestling those big heavy hubs onto a press. If you do have to use a hammer be careful when re-installing the studs it's pretty easy to screw up the snap ring groove in the end of the hub.
Manual locking hubs are locked before needing to engage 4Hi. When the hubs are locked, shifting into and out of 4Hi can be done at any speed. In the mid '80s I lived in the Chicago area and I had a '78 IH Scout II. I would lock the hubs on Thanksgiving and unlock them around Easter. On my way to work around sunrise I had to drive over a mile long bridge on US 45 over the Sanitary and Ship Canal. If the temperature was below freezing, that bridge would be frozen, while the rest of the road was dry. I would just pull the Transfer Case lever into 4Hi before crossing the bridge and push it back to 2Hi after crossing. I didn't need 4 wheel drive going home in the late afternoon. Guy Franks
I work on semi's for a living so I wish i only had to torque the inner to 50 ftlbs haha. The inners I do have a set torque to 200 then you back it up and then go 50. And the outer locking nut is between 200-400ftlbs (depending on the style). To answer your question the hub rides on what's called the spindle so you were right.
If remember correctly f350s of that time frame had left hand wheel studs on one side. So someone replaced them with right hand studs
My thought too.
I was going to mention that.
That would explain why one in the front and one in the rear are different, except that the different studs are on opposite sides. I have been confused by LHT on Internationals, but I don't remember Ford trucks using them.
My 1963 oldsmobile 98 also had left hand studs on the drivers side . And I think late 1960s early 1970s Plymouth dusters had left handed on the passenger side. There has sure never been good reasoning other than I read once they thought the left hand thread should keep the nuts tighter. Yet why different cars and different sides makes no sense
Yeah only a few years on f350's. They had a brainwave and thought it might help with them somehow reversing out with the torque lol. I had the same issue with my single cab 350. I guess they got tired of apprentices in workshops firing them further in and snapping them!
Awesome build, and in my eyes you're doing it just right, especially with the subtle repairs. Are you on IG? I've done some similair things with mine reference dent pulling. I pulled the 460 out for something else though lol.
Nice work, you should never hit a hammer with another hammer however as the hardened surfaces can break off when struck. Learned this years ago in a aviation maintenance hand tools class.
Awesome informative Video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya Prayers 🙏
If someone complains about using a torque wrench in reverse, ask them how they torque something with a left hand thread.
Easy-Peasy... Use a torque wrench for the right hand thread, and use a breaker bar with the same force for left hand threads, or buy a torque wrench that uses a indicator rather than a click type. They are much less expensive and easy to calibrate with an old set of weights on the handle to see where the pointed indicator stops, or catch SnapOn and use the calibrator which is mounted in the truck. If I ever drop a torque wrench, it got a calibration check next week.
Good point. I never thought about that.
damn this is a great video, thanks man
Thats always fun work, sooooo heavy,
I think the studs are different because ones left hand thread and the other is right hand thread. I could be wrong tho
Sometimes you have to back off the brake adjuster w/a screw driver reaching through backing plate to ratchet self adjuster to be shorter. U may have reach in w/ second small screw driver to push self adjuster away from self adjuster, then brake drum will slide off if the shoes have worn grooves in drum..
Thanks. I have a 75 d200 w 360 n Dana 60.
Modify the HF press into a desk top press, then get a higher capacity press for the floor. 90% of the time you will appreciate the desktop version as you can set it at a usable work height.
That would save my knees...
I did the same Brake change to my 77..works great..Rear Drums sucked..always broke the return spring to pull the shoes away from the drums.
I'm willing to bet the reason why the studs were different on the drivers side is because these trucks left the factory with left hand threaded wheel studs on the driver's side. At some point in this truck's life, the drivers side studs were switched over to right hand thread.
I bet you are right. I did not think of that
Will it clear 16inch wheels whith the parking brake calipers for the rear axle?
Awesomeness
23:12 It's called a keyed washer
Thanks!
Thank you Austin can you direct me into the right direction on what you used in that hole disc break system. I would like do the same to y 1976 f350. Thank you so much Robert stiles ps the best video I've seen in a long time thank you again.
rswstiles@gmail.com
Hey Austin great video on The rear Disc brake conversion. I just did the same thing on my 1971 Ford F250. My question for you is did you ever get the parking brake to work? My rear brakes work great but the parking brake does not hold my truck. I’m wondering what your results were.
Did you use the same kit with the eldorado calipers?
@@AustinCoulson I bought my kit from ruff stuff.
Yes eldorado calipers
@@toddhoffmann2174 the only thing I can think of is that the cables aren't tight enough. Those usually hold really well
E-stopp makes an electric parking brake that works really well if you can't get enough force out of the stock brake lever. I used it on the pizza truck I built and loved it.
I’m pretty sure where that bearing goes is just a spline of some type? Correct me if I’m wrong?
I'm not sure which bearing you are talking about
I had another question I have a 1977 Ford F-250 and it has a proportioning valve and I’m interested in doing the disc brakes conversion did you use the proportioning valve?
I used a Summit Racing master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve.
@@AustinCoulson do you have a link to it?
@@andrewfilms4492 www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760113/
I want to upvote, but you are at "420" and it'd be a sin to mess that up!
Totally fair
Just wondering why you didn't replace the u joints on the front axle?
They were in great shape.
Where did you get your disc brakes and the emergency brakes kit at
lugnut4x4.com
Cool deal. Just a FYI the GM style calipers with the parking brake function is kind of a crappy design. They tend to drag if not adjusted properly. I don’t want to rain of your parade but the drums actually work better for parking. Big rigs still use them. The better version would be swapping a dana or sterling from a super duty. Thanks.
I agree on the parking brake setup being better on the drums. I always use the example of big rigs when people question the abilities of drums overall, but in this case we were willing to drop the capabilities of the parking brake in order to have the reduced weight and overall efficiency of discs out back. We just didn't want to be without any parking brake feature at all.
Best out come of all weight much better stopping distances as well its a must have system thanks again Robert
I intend to use a “hydraulic lock” for my parking brakes. Will route rear brake line to valve in cab where parking brake release lever is currently installed. Will get rid of parking brake cables entirely as well as removing foot release pedal from cab interior. Push brake pedal, turn valve, brakes are hydraulically locked on. Release lever, brakes are off. Simple and clean set up. Only issue is routing of lines but with good tube bender you can get the job done.
@@petersims7996 Good, but only classifies as a parking brake and not emergency brake. That being said I see you point.
Did ford's in that year do the driver's side left-hand threads? Could explain the difference in studs side to side
That's a great question, and we did look into that but they didn't use left hand threads that year, and to make it even stranger, the longer studs were on opposite sides of the front and rear.
Well it was a thought still kinda weird 😃😁
I'm guessing someone stripped or broke a stud, and that side had work done on it.
What did you use for brake booster and master cylinder
I show it in the next episode, but it's the 8" Summit PB and the Summit MC that looks like the Wilwood one with the built in adjustable proportioning valve.
Looking to purchase that kit, where would I buy it?
lugnut4x4.com/
If you're not supposed to use a torque wrench in reverse, why do all of them have the selector?
That's my argument as well...
Why not clean up and paint the flanges?
👍😎👍
Can you link all the parts?
good call on the mask since up until the 2000's asbestos was still used in brakes among other things for automobiles
You can address sun damaged plastic like that hub lock with a little heat... Just "dust" it with a torch
I would have used the rear rotors off 99 e350 . Slip right ove the hub . Plus it looks better
I have used those before, but didn't have the ability to add a parking brake as the rotors were designed with the inner drum parking brake. Is there a way to add a parking brake with that setup?
@@AustinCoulson Just in case you didn't know you can still the Eldorado rear caliper with parking brake with that setup .
I once had a pretty German girlfriend that was named Gutentite!
I hate those Eldo calipers. Never had any luck with them. Personally I would have used a t case parking brake.
Caliper works fine, the service brake not so much.
👍🏽🐒🇺🇸
1st rule with grease , DO NOT MIX GREASES
Trying to understand why he put grease on the bearings? I might be wrong, but doesnt the gear lube in the rear end lube the bearings?
13:07
Don't buy a new press, just get an air over hydraulic bottle jack and put it on that press
okay
Need update!
Next one is out with more to come on a regular basis
Or you can cry because everyone doesn’t have the money for fancy tools you got be able to use what you have
Not to be a bastard, but those masks are for dust n don't seal. Half face respirator with 3m 2097 filters...
I was using it for the dust. I have the half face respirators for if they were asbestos lined.
first
You R Second
14th
@@darinmbicknell no