Thanks a bunch for making this video. I'm pretty basic when it comes to being handy around the house. This was simple enough that I replaced my outlet today and now my dryer is running fine.
Always a good idea to check outlets with a meter before working on them even if you've shut off the breaker. You never know who installed the last one or wired the house. Wouldn't risk my safety on an assumption that others always do shit correctly. Thanks for the video.
That’s probably why the clamps in the original receptacle became too loose. They were strained because of the orientation of the receptacle and the plug.
All i needed to see.... Damn old house has 2 hot wires and ground no neutral... So it's up to code as long as you use a 3 prong cord... But you have to use a 3 prong outlet... They wired it to a 4 prong outlet, I just wanted to double check before i replaced it with the same one you have... Thanks for the video...
I really appreciate the effort, brother, but this video would be been much more useful if the camera would have been focused better. You may also want to consider that many people watching this aren't not versed in electrical theory, so more details about the wiring -- and color-coding in particular -- would decrease the risk to a novice attempting to perform this electrical work.
I've noticed some of the comments confusing neutral and ground, here's some interesting facts. A dryer is a 120/240 V appliance, the heating element runs off 240v, the timer, motor, electronic controls on many of the newest dryers, and the drum light (if equipped) run off 120V. Therefore the "ground" in that 10/2 NM is acting as a neutral. On the back of the dryer where the cord connects, there is a strap or jumper wire that connects the chassis to neutral, as sort of a "legal bootleg ground" In the old days, before the 1996 NEC, the standard for dryers was a NEMA 10-30 receptacle, 120/240V nongrounding, 30A.(hot - hot - neutral) The neutral was also used to ground the chassis. The codes of the day required the neutral to be insulated, or may be bare if part of a SE cable assembly, and shall be minimum 10 awg, and the circuit shall originate from service equipment, meaning the main panel, it was not allowed to be fed from a subpanel. 10/2 NM using the ground as a bare neutral was never allowed per the NEC, however I've seen it a handful of times doing renovations in homes built in the 70s and 80s, and older electricians who were in the trade when 3 wire dryer and ranges were acceptable, who I've talked to, say they've worked in jurisdictions where the inspector aka Authority Having Jurisdiction, allowed for the used of 10/2 and 8/2 or 6/2 with the ground serving as neutral, for dryers and 40 or 50 amp ranges respectively, likely on the theory the neutral in SEU cable is bare, so the ground in 2 wire NM cable is no different. Existing installations are permitted to remain in service, but if you modify the circuit in any way, such as relocating the receptacle on the opposite wall during a renovation, the circuit is now considered a new installation, and therefore must be brought up to current codes, so a 3 wire plus ground cable must be ran, with a 4 prong outlet, and the strap or jumper wire connecting the chassis to neutral on the dryer or range must be removed 2 wire plus ground cable is allowed for appliances that require 240 volts only, such as a water heater, baseboard heater, or central air conditioner/heat pump. In this situation the white wire must be re-coded as a hot, with a piece of black or red tape at the receptacle/appliance and breaker panel, as well as the junction box if the cable was spliced along the way. Hope this was helpful and clears any confusion.
Typical wiring color coding is green for neutral red is for positive just as black is negative. Always use a voltage tester.the wiring colors do not represent the wiring but it does tell you how it is to be installed.cheers
He should have simply flipped the new receptacle so that the ground (L shape hole) was now on top. If you will notice at the beginning of the video the dryer plug is inserted with the wiring looping upward, placing unnecessary stress on it. If he had flipped the new receptacle, the dryer plug/cable would hang neatly with no stress on the wiring.
🌹Hi! I pray that you're well and very, very blessed! 🌹I watched your video. I have an Enerlites dryer outlet; and the instruction manual tells me where to put a white, black, and red wire. But the wires in my wall are white, black, and copper. There is NO red wire. So, I put the copper wire in the slot where the manual tells me the red goes. It didn't work. Plus, when I tighten the screw over the white wire, the wire slides to the side inside the slot. I can't get it to stay in the middle.
How would you wire that if they ran a 10/3 cable from a sub panel? Red and black for power, but what about the neutral and ground? Do you not use the neutral or the ground?
My dryer plug (4 prong)melted and stuck to the receptacle.It threw the breaker and after pulling it out of receptacle it melted the side hole slightly..should I replace the outlet?
Are the wires black, white and a ground. If so does the ground wire go to ground while black and white serve as hot. Just asking because I'm trying to figure that part out in my home
Kings Kidd Do not let conductor colors guide what they are. In this case, the black and white are connected to a two pole circuit breaker thus 240 volts. The bare copper conductor is an equipment ground, and in this case(because it is used for 120 volts for controls and lights) also a grounded conductor(neutral).
pat mutzel If you have 2 colored, 1 white, and a green or bare ground, then it should have a four prong receptacle. If not, someone probably changed it.
Baltazar Cerda The correct answer is the receptacle is 120/240 volts. So it is both. If you look up a NEMA receptacle chart, you can see all the different receptacle configurations.
The white wire is neutral not phase! Black and Red are hot wires. You are confusing people here. At min 3:29 you said your white is going to be your ground and then you put the white wire in the top left. I have a black and red for hot wires and white for ground.
Before 1996, there requirement for 220 v was : one 110 hot and one 110 hot of opposite phase and a ground - there was no neutral if the ground was 10 ga wire. The white wire in the cable had to be marked with red paint or tape to indicate that is actually a hot wire.
After 1996 the requirements change and large appliances have 4 wires now : 110 v (black), 110 v of opposite phase (red), a neutral (white) a ground (bare wire).
Replacing an outlet from the 50's or 60's. Have 2 hot, red & black, 1 neutral white & a bare (ground) wire. There isn't a place to attach the ground - so i just let it hang? Should i cut it shorter so it doesn't touch anything?
I had to use my stove outlet to plug in my dryer, luckily the stove, which has been here for years according to the landlord, is wired on a 30 amp breaker even though it should be on a 50 amp, the dryer takes a 30. So the outlet is a 3 pronged with the 3rd prong being straight. Well the chord on my dryer is 3 pronged but the 3rd prong is an L shape, so my hubby got his dremmel tool out and cut half of the L prong out {the long way} to make it a straight prong and now it works just fine. Hopefully we dont die until I can buy the correct chord.........
@@thomasmarable6818 neutral carries current back to transformer when things are working properly. Ground carries no current (unless there is a problem). Neutral is white in your house and can be bare leaving box.
Look it up only a neutral (grounded) conductor can be in insulated at the service. Once you leave the panel for a branch circuit it has to be insulated per NEC.
Gentlemen, you are both kind of correct. Back in the old days, stoves and dryers were connected to three conductors. The heating elements and the motor in a dryer were and still are 240 volt. But the controls and the lights are 120 volts. Therefore, the controls and lights are connected to the case as well as the bare copper conductor. So, in these situations, the ground and the grounded conductor(neutral) are one in the same.
@@KevinCoop1 most of the old dryers I had and worked on had 250 volt lamps in them . Didn't have the electronic control as they do today just switches and thermostat. Most of today's dryers only the heating elements are 240 volts the motors are even 120. Whatcha the large capacity dryers in higher quality units , those motors ore 240 volt.
WE HERE CUZ WE DONT WANT TO HIRE A PROFESSIONAL
Hahahahahaha
First you gotta learn English...
Exactly!
ON THE WHOLE HOOD
Thanks a bunch for making this video. I'm pretty basic when it comes to being handy around the house. This was simple enough that I replaced my outlet today and now my dryer is running fine.
Always a good idea to check outlets with a meter before working on them even if you've shut off the breaker. You never know who installed the last one or wired the house. Wouldn't risk my safety on an assumption that others always do shit correctly. Thanks for the video.
Plus, in an older home, there may be stray voltage coming from another circuit and you may end up having to shut off the main breaker.
AMEN to this!! I had a 30amp breaker to a bedroom, and I have two breakers for my dryer. I wonder what else is on the circuit
He did check it lol
This video is my proper training thank you very much
Super helpful, thanks dude!
You may want to give the outlet a 180 degree turn, so that the wire would go from the plug nice and down.
I agree
@@dylanlink1243 i agree with you agreeing with him
That’s probably why the clamps in the original receptacle became too loose. They were strained because of the orientation of the receptacle and the plug.
Thank you ,this video really help me 🤝
thanks for help bro it helped alot
All i needed to see.... Damn old house has 2 hot wires and ground no neutral... So it's up to code as long as you use a 3 prong cord... But you have to use a 3 prong outlet... They wired it to a 4 prong outlet, I just wanted to double check before i replaced it with the same one you have... Thanks for the video...
I really appreciate the effort, brother, but this video would be been much more useful if the camera would have been focused better. You may also want to consider that many people watching this aren't not versed in electrical theory, so more details about the wiring -- and color-coding in particular -- would decrease the risk to a novice attempting to perform this electrical work.
TBF, its kinda hard to mess up as long as you have the power off.....
I've noticed some of the comments confusing neutral and ground, here's some interesting facts. A dryer is a 120/240 V appliance, the heating element runs off 240v, the timer, motor, electronic controls on many of the newest dryers, and the drum light (if equipped) run off 120V. Therefore the "ground" in that 10/2 NM is acting as a neutral. On the back of the dryer where the cord connects, there is a strap or jumper wire that connects the chassis to neutral, as sort of a "legal bootleg ground"
In the old days, before the 1996 NEC, the standard for dryers was a NEMA 10-30 receptacle, 120/240V nongrounding, 30A.(hot - hot - neutral) The neutral was also used to ground the chassis. The codes of the day required the neutral to be insulated, or may be bare if part of a SE cable assembly, and shall be minimum 10 awg, and the circuit shall originate from service equipment, meaning the main panel, it was not allowed to be fed from a subpanel.
10/2 NM using the ground as a bare neutral was never allowed per the NEC, however I've seen it a handful of times doing renovations in homes built in the 70s and 80s, and older electricians who were in the trade when 3 wire dryer and ranges were acceptable, who I've talked to, say they've worked in jurisdictions where the inspector aka Authority Having Jurisdiction, allowed for the used of 10/2 and 8/2 or 6/2 with the ground serving as neutral, for dryers and 40 or 50 amp ranges respectively, likely on the theory the neutral in SEU cable is bare, so the ground in 2 wire NM cable is no different.
Existing installations are permitted to remain in service, but if you modify the circuit in any way, such as relocating the receptacle on the opposite wall during a renovation, the circuit is now considered a new installation, and therefore must be brought up to current codes, so a 3 wire plus ground cable must be ran, with a 4 prong outlet, and the strap or jumper wire connecting the chassis to neutral on the dryer or range must be removed
2 wire plus ground cable is allowed for appliances that require 240 volts only, such as a water heater, baseboard heater, or central air conditioner/heat pump. In this situation the white wire must be re-coded as a hot, with a piece of black or red tape at the receptacle/appliance and breaker panel, as well as the junction box if the cable was spliced along the way.
Hope this was helpful and clears any confusion.
Thank you for your informative comment.
Super helpful
My three prong dryer outlet has a green wire also which I believe is ground. Where would this green wire be connected to. Thank you. Great video
Typical wiring color coding is green for neutral red is for positive just as black is negative. Always use a voltage tester.the wiring colors do not represent the wiring but it does tell you how it is to be installed.cheers
Would it be better if i just power off the fusebox ?
He should have simply flipped the new receptacle so that the ground (L shape hole) was now on top. If you will notice at the beginning of the video the dryer plug is inserted with the wiring looping upward, placing unnecessary stress on it. If he had flipped the new receptacle, the dryer plug/cable would hang neatly with no stress on the wiring.
Ground on the bottom is code so that the ground prong is the last thing to leave to plug.
Wy you put the neutral insted of ground?
🌹Hi! I pray that you're well and very, very blessed!
🌹I watched your video. I have an Enerlites dryer outlet; and the instruction manual tells me where to put a white, black, and red wire. But the wires in my wall are white, black, and copper. There is NO
red wire. So, I put the copper wire in the slot where the manual tells me the red goes. It didn't work. Plus, when I tighten the screw over the white wire, the wire slides to the side inside the slot. I can't get it to stay in the middle.
The milk crate still makes me smile.
But it would be better for the viewer if he had everything he planned on using laid out instead of digging for it.
First thing you want to do is find and secure the breaker, and check for voltage to ensure you dont shock yourself.
How would you wire that if they ran a 10/3 cable from a sub panel? Red and black for power, but what about the neutral and ground? Do you not use the neutral or the ground?
220 doesn't use a neutral for the 3 prong setup just two hots and a ground
@@theniagarafallsgaragegarde4561. Wrong
What about if it has a neutral & a ground??
My dryer plug (4 prong)melted and stuck to the receptacle.It threw the breaker and after pulling it out of receptacle it melted the side hole slightly..should I replace the outlet?
yes, definitely. but watch a video on how to install a 4 prong outlet, it's a little different than the 3 prong one.
That's my issue. Crazy that the thing just started smoking and melting.
Who else bends one of the prongs to make it fit tighter? LOL
Are the wires black, white and a ground.
If so does the ground wire go to ground while black and white serve as hot.
Just asking because I'm trying to figure that part out in my home
Kings Kidd Do not let conductor colors guide what they are. In this case, the black and white are connected to a two pole circuit breaker thus 240 volts. The bare copper conductor is an equipment ground, and in this case(because it is used for 120 volts for controls and lights) also a grounded conductor(neutral).
Aren’t there manufacturers torque specifications for the wire terminals?
As of the latest there are. Sort of 20-25 lbs/in.
36 lb/in to be exact.
I only have two wires black and white
what would you do if you have ground? Does the ground or the white go in
the outlet?
pat mutzel If you have 2 colored, 1 white, and a green or bare ground, then it should have a four prong receptacle. If not, someone probably changed it.
What gage wire was that? 10 0r 12???
Lisa Albarras
It should be 10
Never use 12 for a 30 amp dryer
It’ll cause a fire
@@miltonnegron65 Thankyou
Milton Negron Are you sure about your comment it will cause a fire? NEC310.15.
I'm no sparky(electrician) so here I go!
I seecopper wire on the white wire
White wire is neutral?
No
So. The connection is 110+110+ ground?
Yes, but the 110 v are opposite phase though.
Vasîle Single phase means "one" phase.
a dummy question bro, is that a 110v or 220v outlet?
110 x 2 to be technical. each wire, "black/white" carry's a 110v load which gives you 220v at the outlet.
Baltazar Cerda The correct answer is the receptacle is 120/240 volts. So it is both. If you look up a NEMA receptacle chart, you can see all the different receptacle configurations.
That's a 10 /2 wire the ground wire is not a conductor it dose not carry current
I used to date a girl that had worn out clamps. ☺️☺️
Lmfao 😂
😂😂🤣 I wasn’t ready for this comment lmfaooo naaaw hahaha
sorry about that, i used to get rough on her!
She needs a replacement
Arent you supposed to disable the 220 outlet before plugging in or unplugging?
He did. he even tested it and showed u it had no power.
What are you doing? I wish you would just explain. Where are you sticking the wires instead of trying to tell me the colors.!!!!
The white wire is neutral not phase! Black and Red are hot wires. You are confusing people here. At min 3:29 you said your white is going to be your ground and then you put the white wire in the top left. I have a black and red for hot wires and white for ground.
240v breaker no neutral needed white and black will be hot wires with the ground...
Before 1996, there requirement for 220 v was : one 110 hot and one 110 hot of opposite phase and a ground - there was no neutral if the ground was 10 ga wire. The white wire in the cable had to be marked with red paint or tape to indicate that is actually a hot wire.
After 1996 the requirements change and large appliances have 4 wires now : 110 v (black), 110 v of opposite phase (red), a neutral (white) a ground (bare wire).
Replacing an outlet from the 50's or 60's. Have 2 hot, red & black, 1 neutral white & a bare (ground) wire. There isn't a place to attach the ground - so i just let it hang? Should i cut it shorter so it doesn't touch anything?
Red and black on top and whit on bottom?
“If we don’t have the proper training”.. then what’s the point of posting a “DIY”? Lol
I had to use my stove outlet to plug in my dryer, luckily the stove, which has been here for years according to the landlord, is wired on a 30 amp breaker even though it should be on a 50 amp, the dryer takes a 30. So the outlet is a 3 pronged with the 3rd prong being straight. Well the chord on my dryer is 3 pronged but the 3rd prong is an L shape, so my hubby got his dremmel tool out and cut half of the L prong out {the long way} to make it a straight prong and now it works just fine. Hopefully we dont die until I can buy the correct chord.........
no update... you're probably dead
fortunately i wasnt watching this to learn anything
Ground up.
Soooo blurry
3 prong has no ground, it has 2 hots and a neutral. Don't confuse ground and neutral!
Since when, it has no neutral just 2 hots and a ground. If what you said is true all wires would have to be insulated and no bare wire.
@@thomasmarable6818 neutral carries current back to transformer when things are working properly. Ground carries no current (unless there is a problem). Neutral is white in your house and can be bare leaving box.
Look it up only a neutral (grounded) conductor can be in insulated at the service. Once you leave the panel for a branch circuit it has to be insulated per NEC.
Gentlemen, you are both kind of correct. Back in the old days, stoves and dryers were connected to three conductors. The heating elements and the motor in a dryer were and still are 240 volt. But the controls and the lights are 120 volts. Therefore, the controls and lights are connected to the case as well as the bare copper conductor. So, in these situations, the ground and the grounded conductor(neutral) are one in the same.
@@KevinCoop1 most of the old dryers I had and worked on had 250 volt lamps in them . Didn't have the electronic control as they do today just switches and thermostat. Most of today's dryers only the heating elements are 240 volts the motors are even 120. Whatcha the large capacity dryers in higher quality units , those motors ore 240 volt.
This was awful
out off focus .did not say wich cable goes where . to dark ... dduuummmaasssss
You installed the ground where you said install white.