I got mine printed two months ago and still didn’t installed it on the base i’m a bit scared of doing it... did any of you guys head breaking issue of the ring or some thing like it??
Have to say Barry , you always give a good, honest review , I recently purchased a Leo Bodnar wheel after your review and I’m very happy. But each item you review has passion and honesty , I enjoy each episode you make , Fanatec, Leo Bodnar etc , all have pro’s and cons, I also purchased the V8 Supercar sequential shifter after your review , thanks for all the great videos , keep up the good work Barry 🏁🇬🇧
The remaining flex is actually a flaw on the wheel side of the qr system. The spring is not pushing hard enough against the aluminium and allowing some movement of the steel balls. You will find that the flex is gone when you push and hold the red aluminium part of the qr towards the base, basically simulating a stronger spring. On my DD1 the play is completely gone with this method, even with the original rubber on the qr.
So a ‘fix’ for Fanatec’s design flaw is to replace a beautifully machined piece of hardware with a piece of plastic.....maybe Fanatec should remachine a new piece to match and send out to all their podium customers.
Fuzzwah ...and the brass fitted washer..two piece design to one....Fanatec should fab a new part and send it to its podium customers...having that kind of movement (flex) is just not acceptable and I can only imagine the inevitable damage to come under the stresses of SiM racing.
dirquist just do a google/UA-cam search. I think as time goes on the reports will rise....and appears to be specific to quick release rims...@ $3000 you’d just think the fitment would’ve been more... German like😀. I think it’s a physics thing, there are weak points, and a decent amount of leverage. The point is, Fanatec should’ve seen this coming imho, announcing a fix and fab a part free of charge.
Hey Barry. I know this is a while ago but I only just got the DD1 a couple of weeks ago. I found a way to make the wheel absolutely rock solid. All I did was replace the Fanatec locking screw with an allen socketed M4x15mm bolt. I had to open up the slot in the quick release to clear the head of the bolt but other than that it works perfect. Just snug the bolt down and there is Zero movement in the quick release.
Thanks Barry, the last 2 fanatic vids that you have done have made up my mind. OSW with a Q1R and convert any Fanatec wheels I have to USB. I’m leaving through the Fire Exit of the Fanatec ecosystem.
David Earthy After hours and hours of reading reviews and comments I will also get out of the Fanatec ecosystem. Will get a SC2 Pro( when available unfortunately) and convert my current 4 wheels. I cannot rely solely on Fanatec’s decisions, good or bad
Why doesn’t Fanatec just redesign their quick release and offer an adapter for anyone with an old rim? Seems like a huge ask for users to spend this kind of money and get that lack of robustness out of the box.
They are... That is why they have made the QR changeable on newer wheels and the podium base's... But far the most does not have any flex - so I don't think Fanatec have had it as a high priority - but it will come.
@@02semiata Sure - if you don't like/trust their products, then go simucube, nobody will hate you for that. :) But all products has faulty units, upsides and downsides - it is up to the individual to figure out what fits them.. I'm happy with fanatec though - my wheel's ain't "faulty" like Barry's, so don't really have a problem with play. Mine is actually more solid out of the box, than Barry's with the Z-ring. For me there is a lot of upsides with Fanatec that I appreciate, why I got no reasons to go simucube, bodnar or elsewhere. But we all got our own taste ;)
To be honest, I think I would reverse the gold locking collar, so that instead of the standard smaller spigot connection to the PLA, you would have the full surface of the collar locking onto the PLA, will probably stop it loosening so readily.
This is bananas. It doesn't have to have play in the connection. My V2 quick release doesn't, my quick release on our race car doesn't ether and it's the same design. I just don't get why so many people have this problem and then there's a bunch of us that don't. The only thing im sure of is that this is unacceptable for all of you that are suffering through this at the price point we are paying.
5 років тому
Barry thanks so much for your work. We simracers can't thank enough for your work on youtube. I have a special request. Can you please do a comparison between DD1, DD2 and SC2. Especially DD1 vs DD2. It is almost impossible to find a useful comparison between latest direct drive solutions. Your previous direct drive base comparison was a godsend; so all of us will be very happy with such a video.
Brummie Deano Seems I’m a bit late to the party then mate! 😂 I’ve only just got into sim racing the last couple months and I just watched Barry’s DD2 review yesterday. I’m trying to decide weather to get a Fanatec DD2 or simucube 2 pro.
at this point I guess the flex is on the clubsport type qr. I hope for Podium owners that Fanatec will come out with a new qr system, to get rid of those ball bearings. ps. please Barry never stop doing those videos, I could watch you reviewing anything in the world :) cheers from Italy!
Good point. I tried that after the video was released. I didn't notice any difference in performance. But it makes sense that it will provide extra support for the Z-ring by having more surface area on the back of it. So that's the way it will stay.
@@simracinggarage3026 Barry I don't think you need to loosen up the locking ring and Z-Ring every time before you put the steering wheel on. I think you can tighten the locking ring and Z-Ring without steering wheel and then put the steering wheel on the shaft. Otherwise the new shaft with integrated QR for DD1/2 which EKSIMRACING have designed would be pointless. I'll appreciate it if you try it :)
I have a DD2. Everytime I say what I’m about to say the fan boys come out the woodwork and insult me. Buy something else. For $1500 we shouldn’t have to put up with this. This is a very important area when it comes to rigidity. Backwards compatibility wasn’t worth the design compromises. If anything the DD1 should have been the backwards compatible product while the DD2 a completely new line. I think anyone willing to spend $1500 on just a motor would be willing to pay the expense to convert our current wheels or buy a new “Podium DD2 wheel” with proper QR. Bluetooth or USB. You’d still be benefiting from the eco system in many ways. I keep hearing people keep say “mine doesn’t flex” Thats either cause they’re to afraid to apply the pressure necessary to see it or enough time hasn’t passed. It will eventually flex. Until I see people proving it on You Tube I won’t be convinced Barry’s just unlucky and got a bad wheel. I’m also not happy with the performance but that’s another story.
@@OhItsThat they compromised on the flex just to make more sales because they knew there were people out there who will want to use the current rim. The amount of flex in the DD1 and 2 is crazy. My simucube is amazing and zero flex. Dont get me wrong I pre ordered the Fanatec Dd wheel the DD1 but cancelled when the delay happend and now I'm so happy I did. typical Fanatec, make a product almost amazing but skimp on a major component and that's there story has been for years
Not sure why you say the Simucube is cheaper? Based on online pricing I'm looking at the SC2 Pro with an almost comparable wheel is approximately $2,300. The DD2 base with CS V2 wheel is $1,870. And if you don't think the extra 5 nm is worth it, the DD1 with the F1 wheel looks like a real bargain at $1,600. Prove me wrong, cause I'm gonna buy something soon...........
PLA is definitively one of the best materials for this purpose. It is significantly more rigid than all common 3d-printing materials. It is also has one of the highest tensile strengths, however it has worse impact resistance than other materials. For this purpose impact resistance is not at all important though. I've also found it to be surprisingly abrasion resistant, especially compared to ABS (ABS feels like butter in comparison).
@@diogoafonso7506 PETG and PLA are quite different materials. IIRC PETG is typically 1/3-1/2 the stiffness of of PLA. I don't think this is advantageous for this purpose, but it may not make a big difference either. PETG has better layer adhesion, which is often advantageous, however since this part is only in compression, I don't think it matters at all I n this particular case. The only real benefit of using PETG I can see here is that it might have less friction lower friction, making it easier to slide on and off. I don't see any reason PETG would not work, but I don't see much reason to use it over PLA either. In fact pretty much all filaments that are not considered flexible would probably work just fine.
You could eliminate the remaining flex by filling in each of the ball-bearing divots with a slight shim (something like electrical tape). Seems like they made the ball-bearing divots too deep in the base shaft or the ball-bearings themselves to small. That would probably eliminate more flex than this collar since the stable pivot point of the wobble is at the retainer bolt with most of the movement at ball-bearing end.
Thanks, Barry, for the solution review. I think I could fabricate it on turning machine at work, and keep it for time when flex will become notable for me 👍 At the moment it doesn't bother me at all 💆
lockring, and shim under should be greased. That will give greater clamping force. Without grease that bolt can be over-torqued without actually giving greater grip. I have seen many similar situations at people bicycle seat tubes
The term flex in the sim world is the most over abused and over reacted to term in the industry. 99% of the time flex is minimal and a non issue. Go out to any actual race car and do this same test and you will find the same play. Great video though and I agree it’s a success!
I have a dd1 and Mclaren rim. I don’t get any flex what so ever. Love the Fanatec equipment to. Can’t fault their customer service and help they’ve given me
I have also a DD1 and a mclaren rim and BMW, no problems with the mclaren, with the BMW is a whole diferent story... Its much heavier. Its a real turn of when in mid corner and the wheel suddendly moves, it feels like a toy!
@@diogoafonso7506 I have a DD1 with a new BMW rim , i have a movement but nothing compared to the barry review, then if i use the bolt, 0 flex. Imposible to do any flex.
Hey Barry, can I ask if you have ever run into a fanatec quick release that will not release? I have a Podium DD2 with the BMW wheel. I want to update firmware which is going to require me to remove the wheel so i can do the motor calibration. The wheel comes off most of the way but it hits something and stops. Do you have a trick or have you heard of this?
I have the clubsport porsche & BMW wheel, the nascar wheel with podium adapter and the podium porsche wheel. The podium wheels have no discernible flex, the clubsports have a little. It looks to me like the flex, at least on mine, is on the wheel side. Even on my clubsport wheels, its certainly not bad and nobody would notice if they weren't really inspecting/trying to replicate the issue. Only other Direct drive base i have is the accuforce v2 and it has some movement in the QR as well albeit minimal as well, probably about the same as my dd2 with clubsport wheels attached. Maybe I got lucky but its my opinion that Barrys DD2 "slop" prior to the Z ring, while worse than any I've seen, isn't horrible. Also its an easy fix and we've seen major improvement from those that do have this slop with either a ring like this or simply some adjustments as theres various how to's on available right now.
If we were driving a Bop-cat I would be concerned about the sideways movement , but since we are steering left and right in a circular motion it seems irrelevant. imo of course.
Great video as always! I went there there site and there showing two different Z rings. A standard one and a !mm deeper one. Which one are you using for the video?
A similar problem occurred with my CSW2.5. But the reason is that the four screws in the shaft are loose. It is not clear whether the DD is also the same reason?
With the podium hub and stock rubber I still get a little flex, but when I put the locking screw in and tighten it the flex is gone. The flex on that fanatec non-podium wheel+hub looks pretty bad.
Wow, thanks for doing this video and bringing this to my attention! I'm gonna print it right now... or I would, if my printer was working... sigh... time to bug Prusa chat again...
Sadly, for me this actually increased the amount of movement in the wheel.. I had to go back to the rubber ... I am not sure if it amplified the issue within the housing on the wheel itself. I tried on 3 wheels. The new porsche wheel on the poduim hub was so bad it worried me to the point of going back to the rubber piece. edit - the longer the connected (like the podium hub) the more the movement.. So the F1 wheels have less movement once I installed the flex - longer extension like the the gt3 porsche wheel actually create more movement. This on my DD2
@@momorious If you look at your own poll you will see that atleast 15% have this flex which is much more then " just a very few" www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/999/dd2-review-of-barry-from-srg/p1
DD1 with BMW rim, I dont have a flex like that - maybe 10% of it, which is totally expected on parts that are not solidly connected. Something's wrong with that rim.
My v2 formula wheel on DD1 does not flex this much. There is a little flex, like barely anything and that is if your using lots of force to to make it flex. I'm not sure if this is just the XHub or what. I'm wondering if you are putting the wheel on correctly. The nut should be tight against the rubber before you put the wheel on. If it's loose then it will flex because there is play in the rubber from sliding the wheel on with room for movement.
my problem is its so tight I have trouble removing the wheel so definitely dont need this but I guess Fanatech will make them up and sell them for a $100
Good point. I tried that after the video was released. I didn't notice any difference in performance. But it makes sense that it will provide extra support for the Z-ring by having more surface area on the back of it. So that's the way it will stay.
just having a think about the flex and the problems I have with removing the wheel from the base.....has Fanatec reduced the size of the male part ( well we cant say penis ) in later runs so that wheels can come of easier?
I would be more worried about the wires all twisted up when you pulled the shaft off. Looks like there just twisting with the wheel rotation. Probably wrong but looks that way.
It's a wireless connection between the shaft and the electronic board ;) So the wires in the shaft are free (because connected to a transmitter) and turn with the wheel (PS: i'm not English so i try to be clear as possible :) )
@@kuroyami6289 Then it becomes even less of a QR..I used that bolt on my CSW V2 and McLaren wheel for the last 6 months. I was so excited to not need it anymore when I got the DD2. The idea of having to use it again almost sends me into a rage. Its just an inferior product next to "ALL" dd system on the market. Lets face it.
have you realize this is not DD2 problem but wheel problem which is really chip for what it is...I hade that little flex on my OSW wen I put my Porsche wheel but didn't blame Simucube for that! be happy there is competition on the market because without Simucube ,Fanatec, and all OSW models most of you ware never gonna spend 5k for a wheel from Bodnar,
Hi! How did you solve it? Mine is two month and Fanatec says it should be flex/play on the wheel..... i dont really think so, it feels it becoming worse each race i drive.
Was considering this hub before watching both your videos. No chance I’m paying over 2k for something that is top of the line and yet still needs a 3d printed mod to perform. Shame on you fanatec. My money will be going somewhere else. Thanks Barry. Not to mention their wheels are a tad overpriced imo.
Looks to me like this option has the potential to push the rim out and off the pins as you tighten - which could lead to improper engagement of the bearings, maybe damage to the pins... Not sure its the best solution. The stock Fanatec rubber expander expands inside the QR. I'm sticking with the stock as I don't have anywhere near that much movement in my QR with my rims....
remove the rubber is contraproductive. cause the rubber fill the gaps when he is compressed by the screw. i have absolute zero flex on my 2 wheels on the dd1. absoute zero^^
Makes you wonder why Fanatec didn't figure this out. I bet with a good quality Polyethylene Rubber version, it would be tighter and easier. Looking at you Fanatec. Replace all DD bushings........ Although my DD2 doesn't have this problem. So as Barry has stated, must be a case by case basis.
Wonder what the percentage of owners bitching about this issue is compared to the ones that don’t actually own a Fanatec DD unit... Probably the normal “I hate Fanatec” crowd... Since the original review I never noticed it... Honestly I thought it was flex in my v2 rim as my BMW GT2 doesn’t move as much... Still to decide if it’s worth printing this mod up...
It makes me think that Thrustmasters not so quick release system ain't so bad after all, even having to tighten that stupid old screw, but it's solid enough
I do not have the original flex as seen in this video... not even close... rather the same as with the fabricated 3d-printer piece (exact same wheel/base)
Why you do a video about a Problem which doesnt exist. Nobody except of you Berry have flex in his DD. So I think this is only your problem but your video make it look like this is a common issue which isnt true. I have a DD too from Fanatec and I have zero flex in all my wheels.
This is a really nice solution to a very minor problem. There will always need to be some tolerance, Fanatec don't need to engineer a new QR, just a more durable Z ring type solution and send it out free to all DD owners! One day I will have to buy a DD base and seeing as I have Fanatec rims I nned them to be able to work on new bases or its wasted money.
it is absurd to have to make a change to a base that costs € 1,500 to adapt a Fanatec steering wheel. otherwise you have a game that is really annoying as well as affecting losing feedback. I love Fanatec and I have the complete Fanatec workstation but here they made a stupid mistake
In a few months Fanatec will bring out a new QR and adaptor to stop the flex only £299 😂😂 jokers. I will stick with my simucube 20nm mige motor thank you lol
You're right! Fanatec should still improve this, buy definitely not enough of a problem to sacrifice backwards compatibility. Would have been nice if this was mentioned more clearly in the video. Someone could easily think this was a big issue.
I would die inside if I owed Fanatec - they should be ashamed of themselves... it would be bad enough if they sent customers this mod for free, but the fact customers are having to fix itself is a joke... much like Fanatec themselves really.
I just got around to installing the Z ring and I agree that its a big improvement. still a small amount of flex but its vastly improved, thanks Barry!
I got mine printed two months ago and still didn’t installed it on the base i’m a bit scared of doing it... did any of you guys head breaking issue of the ring or some thing like it??
Have to say Barry , you always give a good, honest review , I recently purchased a Leo Bodnar wheel after your review and I’m very happy.
But each item you review has passion and honesty , I enjoy each episode you make , Fanatec, Leo Bodnar etc , all have pro’s and cons,
I also purchased the V8 Supercar sequential shifter after your review , thanks for all the great videos , keep up the good work Barry 🏁🇬🇧
After watching this, all the engineers at Fanatec shrink when Barry puts out a new video.....
The remaining flex is actually a flaw on the wheel side of the qr system. The spring is not pushing hard enough against the aluminium and allowing some movement of the steel balls. You will find that the flex is gone when you push and hold the red aluminium part of the qr towards the base, basically simulating a stronger spring. On my DD1 the play is completely gone with this method, even with the original rubber on the qr.
This is interesting. Would be nice to 3d print a clamp that tightens the aluminium part closer towards the shaft and see if that eliminates the flex.
@@akupsys Or you could just print a spacer ring to precompress the spring more??
These are my thoughts as well, a stronger spring would help a lot
Your explanation is exactly correct. Install properly and there’s no issue.
I installed my Podium racing wheel F1 PS4/5 DD1 as per Fanatec quick guide manual. No flex at all. I don’t need any plastic rings.
A 20 minutes video on this channel feels like a 3 minutes video elsewhere
i think it's the oposite.
So a ‘fix’ for Fanatec’s design flaw is to replace a beautifully machined piece of hardware with a piece of plastic.....maybe Fanatec should remachine a new piece to match and send out to all their podium customers.
It replaces a bit of rubber....
Fuzzwah ...and the brass fitted washer..two piece design to one....Fanatec should fab a new part and send it to its podium customers...having that kind of movement (flex) is just not acceptable and I can only imagine the inevitable damage to come under the stresses of SiM racing.
@@canadiankrispybacon If they do you know it wont be free. At least $100 and it'll be called "The Podium Enhanced QR HUB"
Not everyone, haven't seen a single other person yet with this problem.
dirquist just do a google/UA-cam search.
I think as time goes on the reports will rise....and appears to be specific to quick release rims...@ $3000 you’d just think the fitment would’ve been more... German like😀.
I think it’s a physics thing, there are weak points, and a decent amount of leverage.
The point is, Fanatec should’ve seen this coming imho, announcing a fix and fab a part free of charge.
Hey Barry. I know this is a while ago but I only just got the DD1 a couple of weeks ago. I found a way to make the wheel absolutely rock solid. All I did was replace the Fanatec locking screw with an allen socketed M4x15mm bolt. I had to open up the slot in the quick release to clear the head of the bolt but other than that it works perfect. Just snug the bolt down and there is Zero movement in the quick release.
Thanks Barry, the last 2 fanatic vids that you have done have made up my mind. OSW with a Q1R and convert any Fanatec wheels I have to USB.
I’m leaving through the Fire Exit of the Fanatec ecosystem.
David Earthy After hours and hours of reading reviews and comments I will also get out of the Fanatec ecosystem. Will get a SC2 Pro( when available unfortunately) and convert my current 4 wheels. I cannot rely solely on Fanatec’s decisions, good or bad
Vimamipri have paid up for my SC2 now. Hopefully arriving within the next 2 weeks according to SimTechRacing. 😄
I think I am right behind you....my quick release will not release at all
Why doesn’t Fanatec just redesign their quick release and offer an adapter for anyone with an old rim? Seems like a huge ask for users to spend this kind of money and get that lack of robustness out of the box.
They are... That is why they have made the QR changeable on newer wheels and the podium base's...
But far the most does not have any flex - so I don't think Fanatec have had it as a high priority - but it will come.
they make most there money selling individual wheels, pedals, "upgrades", etc) They milk their customers for everything they can get.
@@trigger_me_timbers if you don't like their products - that's a way to see it...
easier to just buy another dd wheel lol
@@02semiata Sure - if you don't like/trust their products, then go simucube, nobody will hate you for that. :)
But all products has faulty units, upsides and downsides - it is up to the individual to figure out what fits them..
I'm happy with fanatec though - my wheel's ain't "faulty" like Barry's, so don't really have a problem with play. Mine is actually more solid out of the box, than Barry's with the Z-ring.
For me there is a lot of upsides with Fanatec that I appreciate, why I got no reasons to go simucube, bodnar or elsewhere. But we all got our own taste ;)
Damn Barry reviews everything. Bloody love this channel 😅🙌🏻🙌🏻
To be honest, I think I would reverse the gold locking collar, so that instead of the standard smaller spigot connection to the PLA, you would have the full surface of the collar locking onto the PLA, will probably stop it loosening so readily.
This is bananas. It doesn't have to have play in the connection. My V2 quick release doesn't, my quick release on our race car doesn't ether and it's the same design. I just don't get why so many people have this problem and then there's a bunch of us that don't. The only thing im sure of is that this is unacceptable for all of you that are suffering through this at the price point we are paying.
Barry thanks so much for your work. We simracers can't thank enough for your work on youtube.
I have a special request. Can you please do a comparison between DD1, DD2 and SC2. Especially DD1 vs DD2. It is almost impossible to find a useful comparison between latest direct drive solutions. Your previous direct drive base comparison was a godsend; so all of us will be very happy with such a video.
the rims is still moving relative to the motor, so it's not as tight as a Xero play , or Q1R or racing QR. So , better, not perfect.
That’s why he titled the video flex reducer, not remover.
Can you attach a zero play or q1r to the wheel and have it work on the dd1?
Fanatec should be embarrassed by this...seriously.
They should, but give them a break, they have a very good batting average, remember even the best cook burns toast once and a while.
Very fast reaction, Barry!
Nice but still Simucube is the way to go xP
cant wait for mine
What model Simucube and what wheel are you using?
Man! how did i missed the this video and the DD2 Review? hahahaha!
Thank you!
Only took a couple days and a solution has been sorted. Gotta love modern technology, great work guys 👍🏼
this problem has been there since release of DD from fanatec musco666
Brummie Deano Seems I’m a bit late to the party then mate! 😂
I’ve only just got into sim racing the last couple months and I just watched Barry’s DD2 review yesterday.
I’m trying to decide weather to get a Fanatec DD2 or simucube 2 pro.
Can you print me one on your 3D printer please? I don’t have one.
at this point I guess the flex is on the clubsport type qr. I hope for Podium owners that Fanatec will come out with a new qr system, to get rid of those ball bearings.
ps. please Barry never stop doing those videos, I could watch you reviewing anything in the world :) cheers from Italy!
You are lightning fast Barry!
A little note: the locking ring should be put in revers.
Theoretically that would be even more stable, as the printed part would be flat with the locking nut!
Good point. I tried that after the video was released. I didn't notice any difference in performance. But it makes sense that it will provide extra support for the Z-ring by having more surface area on the back of it. So that's the way it will stay.
@@simracinggarage3026 Barry I don't think you need to loosen up the locking ring and Z-Ring every time before you put the steering wheel on. I think you can tighten the locking ring and Z-Ring without steering wheel and then put the steering wheel on the shaft. Otherwise the new shaft with integrated QR for DD1/2 which EKSIMRACING have designed would be pointless.
I'll appreciate it if you try it :)
Still leaning towards the Simucube 2 Pro. It's even a little bit cheaper!
But the Fanatec wheel rims are very nice for the price!
Stefan G so just buy Simucube and buy fanatec rims and convert them to work on Simucube that's what I did
I have a DD2. Everytime I say what I’m about to say the fan boys come out the woodwork and insult me.
Buy something else. For $1500 we shouldn’t have to put up with this. This is a very important area when it comes to rigidity.
Backwards compatibility wasn’t worth the design compromises. If anything the DD1 should have been the backwards compatible product while the DD2 a completely new line.
I think anyone willing to spend $1500 on just a motor would be willing to pay the expense to convert our current wheels or buy a new “Podium DD2 wheel” with proper QR. Bluetooth or USB. You’d still be benefiting from the eco system in many ways.
I keep hearing people keep say “mine doesn’t flex” Thats either cause they’re to afraid to apply the pressure necessary to see it or enough time hasn’t passed. It will eventually flex. Until I see people proving it on You Tube I won’t be convinced Barry’s just unlucky and got a bad wheel.
I’m also not happy with the performance but that’s another story.
@@OhItsThat they compromised on the flex just to make more sales because they knew there were people out there who will want to use the current rim. The amount of flex in the DD1 and 2 is crazy. My simucube is amazing and zero flex.
Dont get me wrong I pre ordered the Fanatec Dd wheel the DD1 but cancelled when the delay happend and now I'm so happy I did. typical Fanatec, make a product almost amazing but skimp on a major component and that's there story has been for years
Not sure why you say the Simucube is cheaper? Based on online pricing I'm looking at the SC2 Pro with an almost comparable wheel is approximately $2,300. The DD2 base with CS V2 wheel is $1,870. And if you don't think the extra 5 nm is worth it, the DD1 with the F1 wheel looks like a real bargain at $1,600. Prove me wrong, cause I'm gonna buy something soon...........
@@Simlife101 good idea, but as far as I know, not all wheels are convertible? Or are they now?
PLA is definitively one of the best materials for this purpose. It is significantly more rigid than all common 3d-printing materials. It is also has one of the highest tensile strengths, however it has worse impact resistance than other materials. For this purpose impact resistance is not at all important though. I've also found it to be surprisingly abrasion resistant, especially compared to ABS (ABS feels like butter in comparison).
neistridlar in zappadoc site they mention to print in petg not PLA. Is it the same? Also would the project of z ring be suited to print in PLA?
@@diogoafonso7506 PETG and PLA are quite different materials. IIRC PETG is typically 1/3-1/2 the stiffness of of PLA. I don't think this is advantageous for this purpose, but it may not make a big difference either. PETG has better layer adhesion, which is often advantageous, however since this part is only in compression, I don't think it matters at all I n this particular case. The only real benefit of using PETG I can see here is that it might have less friction lower friction, making it easier to slide on and off.
I don't see any reason PETG would not work, but I don't see much reason to use it over PLA either. In fact pretty much all filaments that are not considered flexible would probably work just fine.
Thank you for your insight!
You could eliminate the remaining flex by filling in each of the ball-bearing divots with a slight shim (something like electrical tape). Seems like they made the ball-bearing divots too deep in the base shaft or the ball-bearings themselves to small. That would probably eliminate more flex than this collar since the stable pivot point of the wobble is at the retainer bolt with most of the movement at ball-bearing end.
Thanks, Barry, for the solution review. I think I could fabricate it on turning machine at work, and keep it for time when flex will become notable for me 👍 At the moment it doesn't bother me at all 💆
lockring, and shim under should be greased. That will give greater clamping force. Without grease that bolt can be over-torqued without actually giving greater grip. I have seen many similar situations at people bicycle seat tubes
The term flex in the sim world is the most over abused and over reacted to term in the industry. 99% of the time flex is minimal and a non issue. Go out to any actual race car and do this same test and you will find the same play. Great video though and I agree it’s a success!
Agreed. Fanatec needs to address this in a real way. For the amount of $Jack$ one spends for a podium wheel this is definitely a shabby solve.
I have a dd1 and Mclaren rim. I don’t get any flex what so ever. Love the Fanatec equipment to. Can’t fault their customer service and help they’ve given me
I have also a DD1 and a mclaren rim and BMW, no problems with the mclaren, with the BMW is a whole diferent story... Its much heavier. Its a real turn of when in mid corner and the wheel suddendly moves, it feels like a toy!
@@diogoafonso7506 I have a DD1 with a new BMW rim , i have a movement but nothing compared to the barry review, then if i use the bolt, 0 flex. Imposible to do any flex.
Thank you Barry, you are the MAN! Definately going to try this one!
Hey Barry, can I ask if you have ever run into a fanatec quick release that will not release? I have a Podium DD2 with the BMW wheel. I want to update firmware which is going to require me to remove the wheel so i can do the motor calibration. The wheel comes off most of the way but it hits something and stops. Do you have a trick or have you heard of this?
The locking nut for the rims doesn’t solve that problem?
This would be best printed in ASA.
It's an incredibly tough and strong engineering material.
I have the clubsport porsche & BMW wheel, the nascar wheel with podium adapter and the podium porsche wheel. The podium wheels have no discernible flex, the clubsports have a little. It looks to me like the flex, at least on mine, is on the wheel side. Even on my clubsport wheels, its certainly not bad and nobody would notice if they weren't really inspecting/trying to replicate the issue. Only other Direct drive base i have is the accuforce v2 and it has some movement in the QR as well albeit minimal as well, probably about the same as my dd2 with clubsport wheels attached. Maybe I got lucky but its my opinion that Barrys DD2 "slop" prior to the Z ring, while worse than any I've seen, isn't horrible. Also its an easy fix and we've seen major improvement from those that do have this slop with either a ring like this or simply some adjustments as theres various how to's on available right now.
If we were driving a Bop-cat I would be concerned about the sideways movement , but since we are steering left and right in a circular motion it seems irrelevant. imo of course.
Great video as always! I went there there site and there showing two different Z rings. A standard one and a !mm deeper one. Which one are you using for the video?
I used the original one. But not sure which one they are calling standard. I'm sure either one will work.
A similar problem occurred with my CSW2.5.
But the reason is that the four screws in the shaft are loose. It is not clear whether the DD is also the same reason?
With the podium hub and stock rubber I still get a little flex, but when I put the locking screw in and tighten it the flex is gone. The flex on that fanatec non-podium wheel+hub looks pretty bad.
im amazed at how many adapters u managed to fit onto that
Wow, thanks for doing this video and bringing this to my attention! I'm gonna print it right now... or I would, if my printer was working... sigh... time to bug Prusa chat again...
This real innovation. I know Fanatec is coming out with a QR2. Constructive criticism can be helpful.
Has Fanatec updated their design to include a piece like this?
No.
Sadly, for me this actually increased the amount of movement in the wheel.. I had to go back to the rubber ... I am not sure if it amplified the issue within the housing on the wheel itself. I tried on 3 wheels. The new porsche wheel on the poduim hub was so bad it worried me to the point of going back to the rubber piece.
edit - the longer the connected (like the podium hub) the more the movement.. So the F1 wheels have less movement once I installed the flex - longer extension like the the gt3 porsche wheel actually create more movement. This on my DD2
I had the exact same experience. I tried the v15 version, and I did both the regular size and the 1mm longer one, still the same outcome :(
Barry what kind of camera Do you use
Canon HF G10, I have 3 of them. It's pretty old, but a very good for it's time.
The problems been solved there's no issue the wheel works perfectly every time
Glad i just bought SC2 sport. At this price point consumers should not accept this. Does everybody with a DD1/2 have this problem or just a few?
Obviously just a very few.
@@momorious If you look at your own poll you will see that atleast 15% have this flex which is much more then " just a very few"
www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/999/dd2-review-of-barry-from-srg/p1
FYI my first one lasted a few months or about 60+ hours before things got loose again
The big screw on the shaft always gets loose, when driving. a solution would be to replace the weak spring inside the QR adapter
DD1 with BMW rim, I dont have a flex like that - maybe 10% of it, which is totally expected on parts that are not solidly connected. Something's wrong with that rim.
Exactly my thought this morning under the shower
My v2 formula wheel on DD1 does not flex this much. There is a little flex, like barely anything and that is if your using lots of force to to make it flex. I'm not sure if this is just the XHub or what. I'm wondering if you are putting the wheel on correctly. The nut should be tight against the rubber before you put the wheel on. If it's loose then it will flex because there is play in the rubber from sliding the wheel on with room for movement.
THANKS !!!
What if that Z-ring will be printed from some elastic material? With locknut you could tighter connection.
My DD2 do not flex at all with Formula v1 and Bmw rim, do you check the inner screw of the QR?
I have zero play on my DD1 when i tighten the rubber. I have Mclaren wheel with aluminum quick release.
Hi there could you please tell me where a can get Replacement Quick Release Modified Kit For Fanatec Podium DD1 / DD2 Repair Parts
my problem is its so tight I have trouble removing the wheel so definitely dont need this but I guess Fanatech will make them up and sell them for a $100
But then you get a golden anodizing:)
Will Sutton ...... on a Black Friday Sale if you ´re lucky...😂
Funny I have the same problem. Its not easy to remove but im fine with that. Better then this problem....
@@johntaylor2971 not nice but to much truth in it :-)
ATL RIOT lube up the rubber collar with rubber grease, and it will then be quite easy
My DD1 with the Formula V2 wheel has virtually no flex at all... Weird, must be down to tolerances in production.
The locking nut should be installed in reverse!
Good point. I tried that after the video was released. I didn't notice any difference in performance. But it makes sense that it will provide extra support for the Z-ring by having more surface area on the back of it. So that's the way it will stay.
Jesus your qr has a ton more play than mine.
Can’t download stl file from site
just having a think about the flex and the problems I have with removing the wheel from the base.....has Fanatec reduced the size of the male part ( well we cant say penis ) in later runs so that wheels can come of easier?
I would be more worried about the wires all twisted up when you pulled the shaft off.
Looks like there just twisting with the wheel rotation. Probably wrong but looks that way.
It's a wireless connection between the shaft and the electronic board ;)
So the wires in the shaft are free (because connected to a transmitter) and turn with the wheel
(PS: i'm not English so i try to be clear as possible :) )
I wonder what is barrys at home go to wheel now after all the reviews.....
The Bodnar.
why dont you use the screw? it stops it from moving
I did have the screw in during the DD2 review. Still had movement. ua-cam.com/video/R-Qd6Hl4IZ0/v-deo.html
Barry why do you test the QR without using the bolt to tighten the QR? That had a bigger effect for me then this mod.
He did said he used it in his last video but did not get much benifit.
@@kuroyami6289 Then it becomes even less of a QR..I used that bolt on my CSW V2 and McLaren wheel for the last 6 months. I was so excited to not need it anymore when I got the DD2. The idea of having to use it again almost sends me into a rage. Its just an inferior product next to "ALL" dd system on the market. Lets face it.
@@OhItsThat Why are you telling me that then? I never said anything about it.
Konme Sorry, that was meant for @pollpox12.
@@OhItsThat lol
There is another video of someone showing how to properly tightening the hub. So I don’t think this plastic thing is necessary
have you realize this is not DD2 problem but wheel problem which is really chip for what it is...I hade that little flex on my OSW wen I put my Porsche wheel but didn't blame Simucube for that! be happy there is competition on the market because without Simucube ,Fanatec, and all OSW models most of you ware never gonna spend 5k for a wheel from Bodnar,
I Think it could be youre v2 rim thats loose? I Think in wrong but idk
Nice modification design.
I have this issue on my brand new DD2. Fanatec are denying the problem and trying blame me for not fitting the wheel correctly. I’m fuming.
Hi! How did you solve it? Mine is two month and Fanatec says it should be flex/play on the wheel..... i dont really think so, it feels it becoming worse each race i drive.
Was considering this hub before watching both your videos. No chance I’m paying over 2k for something that is top of the line and yet still needs a 3d printed mod to perform. Shame on you fanatec. My money will be going somewhere else. Thanks Barry. Not to mention their wheels are a tad overpriced imo.
it's funny he have so loose wheel.
my DD1 and F1 v2 wheel is not loose or jerking a round.
Fanatec has left the chat
I think you know more about Fanatec stuff more then Fanatec does...lol
Spending that much money on fanatecs dd just to spend more to try to reduce the flex, they're other options out there with no flex
And it’s been noted that the majority of people has no flex. I don’t. But if you do, now there’s a quick fix now.
il wait for dd3. flex no ty
Looks to me like this option has the potential to push the rim out and off the pins as you tighten - which could lead to improper engagement of the bearings, maybe damage to the pins... Not sure its the best solution. The stock Fanatec rubber expander expands inside the QR. I'm sticking with the stock as I don't have anywhere near that much movement in my QR with my rims....
remove the rubber is contraproductive. cause the rubber fill the gaps when he is compressed by the screw. i have absolute zero flex on my 2 wheels on the dd1. absoute zero^^
Makes you wonder why Fanatec didn't figure this out. I bet with a good quality Polyethylene Rubber version, it would be tighter and easier.
Looking at you Fanatec. Replace all DD bushings........
Although my DD2 doesn't have this problem. So as Barry has stated, must be a case by case basis.
Probably because most DD1 an DD2 don't flex nearly as much as Barry's does. Guessing his Formula V2's QR was machined to the wrong spec.
@@TheBrennanSchafer Could also be combination of both tolerances adding up in the wrong direction.
Wonder what the percentage of owners bitching about this issue is compared to the ones that don’t actually own a Fanatec DD unit... Probably the normal “I hate Fanatec” crowd... Since the original review I never noticed it... Honestly I thought it was flex in my v2 rim as my BMW GT2 doesn’t move as much... Still to decide if it’s worth printing this mod up...
if ur unit is like mine just atatch de bolt and you wont have any flex.
It makes me think that Thrustmasters not so quick release system ain't so bad after all, even having to tighten that stupid old screw, but it's solid enough
I do not have the original flex as seen in this video... not even close... rather the same as with the fabricated 3d-printer piece (exact same wheel/base)
I'm the same, hardly any flex at all. Maybe they fixed mine before sending.
Yup, no flex, so far, with the DD1 and V2.
Yup, I have a pre-order DD1 and Formula V2, and I have pretty much no flex at all.
@@descent575 damn, you must be comfortable if youre buying multiple sim DDs
Blotted thx a lot, Your post really makes my day......😂
With the podium hub, there is absolutely zero flex whatsoever on a dd1 - I don’t even know how you are able to move the wheel like that.
My only concern would be if this voids your warranty and I suspect it would.
Why you do a video about a Problem which doesnt exist. Nobody except of you Berry have flex in his DD. So I think this is only your problem but your video make it look like this is a common issue which isnt true. I have a DD too from Fanatec and I have zero flex in all my wheels.
To all the dudes hating on Fanatec ,
Watch this tutorial ua-cam.com/video/u2slxjJBcZA/v-deo.html
It works :)
A product that cost that much its a shame that it needs a mod
My cheapo logitech G920 has less flex than even the improved version. I mean, I'd rather have the Fanatec for other reasons, but that's pretty bad.
This is a really nice solution to a very minor problem. There will always need to be some tolerance, Fanatec don't need to engineer a new QR, just a more durable Z ring type solution and send it out free to all DD owners!
One day I will have to buy a DD base and seeing as I have Fanatec rims I nned them to be able to work on new bases or its wasted money.
Because the rubber is the issue
it is absurd to have to make a change to a base that costs € 1,500 to adapt a Fanatec steering wheel. otherwise you have a game that is really annoying as well as affecting losing feedback. I love Fanatec and I have the complete Fanatec workstation but here they made a stupid mistake
Luscious locks of hair hahah (-8
In a few months Fanatec will bring out a new QR and adaptor to stop the flex only £299 😂😂 jokers. I will stick with my simucube 20nm mige motor thank you lol
It’s not important to solve this problem.
There isn't any slack in the turning direction.
You're right! Fanatec should still improve this, buy definitely not enough of a problem to sacrifice backwards compatibility. Would have been nice if this was mentioned more clearly in the video. Someone could easily think this was a big issue.
Joop exactly
Anyone that sells these Z-Ring's? 3D printers aren't exactly household items.
Get the .STL file from these guys and then send it to one of many sites to print it for you.
Send the file to Shapeways for printing - www.shapeways.com/
Already done - have a look here www.etsy.com/uk/listing/734569137/fanatec-z-ring-by-eksimracing?ref=shop_home_active_1
Had 2 of them printed, by 3d printshop here in Denmark. The Z-Ring works fantastically well!
Yea this is bad by Fanatec 😒 id be annoyed paying out for this and finding out about this flex
put some hair on it
R Parker 😂
Almost bought the DD2, this looks miserable
I would die inside if I owed Fanatec - they should be ashamed of themselves... it would be bad enough if they sent customers this mod for free, but the fact customers are having to fix itself is a joke... much like Fanatec themselves really.