FANATEC Podium DD1 vs. DD2 - Which is best?
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
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The Fanatec Podium DD1 and DD2 Wheel Bases have been around for quite some time now, and without a doubt, one of the most commonly asked questions is "which offers better value for money".
So today I have both models here in the studio to not only compare from a feature set perspective, but pull them apart to compare the hardware internally and go for a drive back to back to see exactly what the differences are, and which offers the better value for money.
TIME STAMPS:
Intro: 0:00
Identical Motors?: 0:48
Warranty Differences: 1:37
Emergency Stop Button: 2:36
Other Cosmetic Differences: 5:09
Hardware Differences: 5:30
The Importance of Software & Firmware: 10:44
Consistency between Sim Titles: 12:18
DD1 vs. DD2 Driving Comparison - Part 1: 12:55
Dynamic Range Explained: 13:38
DD1 vs. DD2 Driving Comparison - Part 2: 21:41
Cooling Fan Operation: 23:22
Conclusions: 24:05
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I hope you all find this video helpful in making your decision. If you have decided to go ahead and buy either base, It's a huge help to me if you wouldn't mind using the following links to purchase. It sends a small portion of the profits my way without costing you anything extra. I greatly appreciate your support!
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Sure. First I would appreciate your feedback on the rest of my proposed setup. Fanatec DD1 w/Podium Wheel F1 + Clubsport V3 Pedals w/Brake Perf. Kit + Si-Lab TR1 Cockpit. I realize the larger Sim-Lab cockpits have added rigidity, but Sim-Lab assured me that the TR1 is designed to support DD and should be fine as is. I like the TR1 look and a smaller footprint. Would you recommend a different setup or adding other parts/accessories (like Kill Switch or mods) at this time? Thanks!
All sounds good mate. I don’t have experience with the TR1 though so cant comment on that.
@@boostedmedia Will, Thanks for your response. I viewed your excellent “Is Now a Bad Time to be Buying Sim Racing Gear”. I’m not a fan of the “Smurf” blue/yellow color scheme used in the Podium Racing Wheel F1 and hope Fanatec offers a color option and/or new wheel. With the upcoming PS5 release on Nov 12th, I feel something is brewing. Currently, Fanatec is lean in product offerings for PS4/5. From a marketing perspective, the ideal time to introduce new PS4/5 products would coincide with the new console’s release. Or at least for Sony to issue a statement to capture sim-racing mindshare and marketshare against a potential Microsoft announcement. Sony has to be cognizant of what Microsoft/Fanatec might be collaborating on (and vice-versa) for the release of the new Xbox on Nov. 10th. My intuition tells me we may see key press releases between now and the release day of each new console. What does your “spidey sense” tell you?
With the covid situation and so many timelines blowing out this really anyone’s guess. I’d tend to agree though under normal situations.
Saw link 2 weeks after getting dd2 ☹️
Video timestamped, super crispy video, and very informative. Getting very good at this Will!
Thanks Brian. There's about 50 hours of work in this video, so the videos will be a little less frequent now we're pushing out this quality. But I'm enjoying putting in the creative effort. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It means a lot to know the hard work is appreciated.
@@boostedmedia Absolutely worth the time nice!!!!
Haha! I was looking for this exact video yesterday, but ended up upgrading to the DD1 and today I feel confident with that decision. Cheers!
One Note: Holding Torque is a Marketing term when it comes to direct drive wheels (which is why you only see it with Fanatec).. In general with Force Feedback you will never have a situation where holding torque would become an issue as the FFB signal is constantly changing at minimum 60 times a second up to 360 times a second depending upon the sim. You could see the holding torque issue ONLY if you are set in clipping where as was set the signal flatlines and all you get is the straight force from the wheel.. I believe under testing as I have had both a DD1 and DD2 (Beta Tester for the DD2) it will de-rate to holding after about 3 seconds. So initially the Fanatec will always run to Peak as does any other DD wheel but after a certain amount of time the Firmware will derate the servo. This does protect the servo from overheating and you can actually Cause a DD1/2 to do this if you turn the wheel to the bump stop and then hold it under pressure.
other comments.. I haven't torn apart the two units myself but I can tell you that Most likely the hardware differences are in the Power FETs on the main circuit board with the DD1 having less capable versions which limit the power capability. Small change but makes a world of difference.
Power setting and Headroom is an interesting thing and can get VERY Complex depending upon the game/Title and the Most complex is iRacing but it is also the most accurate when you understand it and it does take complete advantage of the additional headroom of the DD2 (if you allow it too).
For my comments on the difference between the two I would say Feel Wise there is NONE, The Motors are the Same the Firmware is the same, and for all basics they are the same. running at the SAME at the wheel strength (which is different than max strength and more to the effect of what was shown with the last line in the graph) the two wheels run identically with the difference being how much clipping you might get from certain titles. So basically your purchase would come down to if you want to run at more realistic strength levels or not (and yes that is a hard question as in many cases you don't know what you will run at) however, If you have any thought that you might want to have high at the wheel strengths or that you might grow into them then the DD2 would be the one to get otherwise the DD1 would be fully useable.. In iRacing you can run a DD1 to what I would consider realistic forces with all significant fidelity on cars up to the GT/GTE level, Indy P1, and other heavy steering cars would need the DD2 to be at the same at the wheel force.. So buying the DD2 over the DD1 if you are just looking for higher fidelity and response from the wheel is probably not going to yield any benefit.. (but seriously thing hard about what you r are wanting as I know MANY who have actually increased their power beyond what they thought as they got used to the wheels.
and yes e-Stops are a good thing but the way the Fanatec one works honestly is not proper and I would not really suggest buying the ir e-Stop.. The manner in which it works is when you hit the estop it pulls all power from the Basewhich means you can no longer drive the car and when you disable it the wheel has to go through the phasing routine.. In the newer firmwares Fanatec has updated the power button function to allow for torque off if you hit the power button but REALLY that should be the e-Stop itself.. (WARNING blatant plug) I have developed through my company Penguin r/c an eStop for the Fanatec Units that reduces the power of the DD1/2 instead of cutting all power which is the way the thing should work (in reality it should cut all power but ( I couldn't do that one based on the way the Fanatec System works).. The other option is to build your own which is fully possible but yes it is a good thing to have.
Anyway enough of my yammering.. as always good videos on the subject.
@Fierocean Gaming It really depends on what you are looking to achieve as far as immersion/Gaming/Realism/ect.. all DD wheels are quite smooth however stepper based units like the Accuforce or SimMagic do tend to have a little more notchiness. The Accuforce Software does an excellent job at compensating though..
If you are looking for Gaming feel you will tend to be someone who would like a more active style wheel without huge amounts of force.. With this what you should probably be looking at are the Fanatec, Accuforce, Low Power Simplicity Units (SW13), Possibly the SimMagic unit (though I have NO experience with it).
If you are looking for a balanced unit where you can get somewhere in between active and Natural then you would probably want to look at the VRS DFP, SC2 Sport, Fanatec's, Simplicity SW20, SC1 Small Mige (Used or DIY). These do still range in their base feel profiles as the Fanatec's are more active than the others but they can generally be tuned to fall within a balanced feel pretty easily.
To get the closest to realistic you would would probably want to look at the SC2 Pro, Ultimate, Simplicity SW30, SC1 Large Mige (used or DIY), Bodnar. These units generally can be tuned to give a more active feel BUT can NOT get as active as the ones above listed as being more active so they will always have a more dampened realistic feel to them.
There is some crossover in feel as these units can be tuned.. One thing to note is that you generally gain power the more realistic you want to go and that is mainly due to the fact that as you get the system more dampened and natural it usually comes with using a bigger heavier servo.. That bigger and heavier servo generally always will provide more power along with its size.
Tldr
I’ve been running my DD1 for PS4 for almost a year now and I think it’s a great unit. The fact that it’s a down tuned DD2 motor just means that you’re not pushing this unit overly hard and to me that might have a little more longevity.
Every once in a while she needs a restart after booting up sometimes it freezes. Also very rarely during gameplay it bugs out and goes to one side completely at the steering lock and it needs to be restarted.
I get plenty enough power out of this unit to get out of my rig with my shoulders just burning after a long session.
Relatively new to the sim community but can already tell you are the MKBHD of this community. Excellent reviews, informative, unbiased and clearly trustworthy. Really hope you get what you deserve out of this channel.
Thanks a lot Brayden. That means a lot. Marques has been a big inspiration lately with the increase in production value on my channel :)
@@boostedmedia Hey Mate, Dont know If you remember, but you helped me decide what monitors to go for a few weeks back. (The BenQ EX3203r). I have now all 3 and also bought a Fanatec DD1, pedals, shifter via your link and I have a P1-X. so basically copied you in every way...Hehe. I was hoping you also could help me whit the PC im getting to run all this. I will also stream a bit, but the main use will be playing ACC, IRacing, DR2, F-12020, and big racing games like that. I have an EVGA 2080ti FWT3 GPU...And Im thinking of pairing it whit a Ryzen 3900X, Is this a good choice of CPU for my use? I know the INTELS I5-10600K is crowned to be the best CPU for only gaming, (The I9-10900K is a small bit better but 300 euros more). So finally to my question: What CPU would you pair your 2080ti whit if you had my needs...AMD 3900X or Intel 10600K? Would I even notice a difference when playing? Also If you could recommend a solid MB I would be super happy. What is your CPU/GPU/MO? Ps: im getting the CPU tonight, so a rapid response would be appreciated::). Love your videos, and thanks for all the help, mate. Cheers Kenneth (Spain)
After literally 5 months of trying to figure out which DD wheel I want and sticking with my CSL Elite, you’ve helped me decide. DD1 over the DD2. The extra spending for torque I probably don’t need would be useless. DD1 it is! Thank you!!
dd1 is more then ennough i have it set up to 60 percent most of the time and its already killing me after a race csl elite only peaks at 6nm and the clubsport peak at 7nm your basicaly 3x the current power you have its more then enough infact i would argue that a direct drive unit that is able to peak at 15nm is more then enough for 99 percent of user.
finally got time to watch this, great video and on point for all I thought too... I was a pre-release DD2 order person and went that way because back then it had the stronger motor... if I were to do again today I'd prolly go the DD1 and make the emergency stop button... found a doco to dyi ur own at a fraction of the cost. Thanks Will!
A massive thank you for this review ! 👍🎊
Really love your videos ✌️
I was about to pre-order a CSL DD but you changed my mind 😁 now i NEED a podium DD1 !
Great video Will, especially describing the dynamic range.
Oh heck yeah! I've been waiting for a video like this. I ended up going with the DD1 cause it was in my budget and I really didn't find the e-stop and 5nm extra worth it
Great vid!! Answered majority of the questions I had! 👍🏿
Been using DD1 for a few weeks now and very happy with it, did have some issues with drivers for the F1 Wheel Base which took some time to sort out.
I was on the fence about which one of the fanatec bases to buy but your breaking it down the way you did convinced me to go DD1. Thank you very much.
Will, you're great! Love this channel. DD1 owner here.
Wow! This was extremely detailed which is exactly what I needed to make my decision! Thank you so much!!!!
The best explanation about wheel forces and dynamic range! Thank you!
Thanks! you definitely make me took a decision! You're so kind bud
Love ur content so much man please keep it up. You are amazing!❤️
Great video. I've been trying to decide on which Fanatec wheel base would be best for me. This video review is probably the best structured one I've seen and has answered pretty much all of the questions I had.
Great to hear it. Thanks mate.
Awesome explanation of dynamic range, I finally understand why dd1 is worth the extra cash over a csl dd
Honestly you basically confirmed what I tell most Sim Racers. You dont need the 25nm or even 20nm in most situations. That is the reason I bought the Accuforce v2 because is 16nm peak and 13nm sustained and most of the time I run it at 65% max. Anything above and you are fighting the wheel which adds more inconvenience. By the way amazing review!
I have also an Accuforce V2, I agree with you 100%. I never use it more than 70%.
I will consider the Accuforce V2 as my CSW 2.5 replacement as Fanatec is not playing fair with german customers.
I used to think the same thing but sometimes the sustained cornering force with things like the rsr will cause clipping
Him: Comparing amazingly expensive DD wheels.
Me with a TMX: *Interesting*
Very informative and well executed vid. Thanks
Hoping to take advantage of this years Black Friday sale on the dd2 and upgrade from the csl dd. Glad I didn’t jump on the podium f1 set up as I already have the 2.5x with podium set up. Thanks for the great videos.
I just checked yesterday and thought oh sweet Black Friday and everything is out of stock but You definitely will this year I picked the DD2 up for 1.199,95€ instead of the 1.499,95€
Thanks 4 this Video. Before this Video, i never knew the differences.
Informative reviews ! 🏁💯
Great video Will.Well done. 👍
Ive come to love this channel! No other channel provides the in depth and honest reviews and responses that the sim-racing community can rely on.
I currently own a thrustmaster TMX Pro, and have been planning an upgrade. Im curious to hear if you think a belt driven CSW V2.5 is worth the money, or a direct drive option like the DD1 is the next "step up" from a basic thrustmaster set up? Thanks Will in advance for the response and work you've put into the channel!
Tha is a lot Austin. The CSW2.5 is a great product. I don’t have any person experience with Thrustmaster though so I can’t offer a direct comparison. However it’s a big step up from the CSL elite which I imagine is more similar to thrustmaster.
DD is another big step up again of course, but you’ll also need a solid mount to take full advantage
Very well done video... Superb! Imo
I had iracing crash on me which sent my DD2 nuts - had to use the emergency stop button. Felt like it nearly broke my wrists it snapped so hard till I could hit the switch!
Very useful review. Great job overall with your reviews. You and Barry are my goto reviewers. Speaking of reviews: are you planning to review VRS’ new DD wheelbase?
Thanks mate. Yep they're going to send me one as soon as they start shipping internationally.
I wish I could afford one of those man. Ty for keeping my dream alive and the videos are great thank you man. Your so lucky to be able to have multiple set ups.
It‘s less luck but more hard work Will has done. :)
Great video! I started off watching videos about how great the CSL Elite is... then the CSL DD... now I'm thinking I should just raise the budget after seeing how good these are lol
Great video, Will. I run my DD1 between 50%-60% and ingame 100% and have never once thought i need more torque than that. I also bought a foot operated switch extension lead from Amazon instead of the emergency stop button.
Note that in Game gain of 100 is not good with a DD wheel. You should use a max gain of 70 for example in ACC, otherwise you will get software Clipping.
@@momorious Please provide evidence. Link to source.
@@SmokeyStoner this has been discussed hundreds of times, just Google a bit. It was also mentioned directly by Fanatec that in ACC a gain of over 70 WILL clip on DD wheels, this was even confirmed by Aris, the Kunos Physics Developer himself in one of his TL;DW videos where he even recommended to use in Game gain of 30-50 because at 100 you will get intended Software Clipping with a DD... So yeah, plenty of prove available online ^^ It's actually best to get a good mix between lower in Game gain and good FF, which is in Game gain 60 combined with DD2 Tuning Menu FF 60 for example (or DD1 Tuning Menu FF of around 85)
@@momorious ya I second that. Use 100 FFB and FEI of like 60-70. Then set the game to something like 60 saturation.
Another great review. I guess Fanatec not having any stock of either makes the buying decision easy. Cheers Will.
Great video will!!!!
DD1 owner here. 100% agree on the bit about beta drivers. I love my DD1, but the driver/firmware situation around the DDx bases is borderline absurd.
DD1 owner here. What don't you like about it? I feel they have okay software and firmware.
Can you give us update?
@@edo7283 it's ok. Not great. They haven't released an update for months. Speculation is due to the dev team prepping the new CSL DD. But I still get jolts and whatnot, even on the Fanatec default screen (they claim this shouldn't happen). That said, they're at least less frequent.
Is this sorted now?
@@aoaaron6166 yep, it actually is. They rewrote it all from scratch (reportedly). Can't really fault any of it now. Highly recommend.
OOOH NICE! An Australian Sim Racing UA-camr! Lets Go
also hi from melbourne australia :D
Very interesting comparison Will. I'm still quite happy with my ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 though, bang for the buck wise anyway. 😎
Can you get your ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 to work on PS4?
@@jewulo Sorry, I don't have a PS4. Will should know.
Not compatible natively. But there’s a 3rd party device called a DriveHub you can use.
Thank you for that video that was great I have bought a DD one with a F1 wheel great video thank you
I have had my SC2 pro spinning uncontrollably after a system freeze one time. The stop button is something I was glad to have.
I hope you didn't have a USB wheel connected!
Boosted Media sure did ;/
My DD wheel was hitting 16NM today and that was more than enough for me thank you very much. Maybe the DD2 is the equivellent of the better binned product.
Great advice, thanks mate.
Great Video!
good vide as always :)
8-10 with a max of 15-20 is what you get in a real life GT-3 car with power steering which is what I primarily drive that and GTE cars that also have power steering. So I went with the DD1 and cant wait to test it and improve my lap times and get more consistent
atother great piece, and informative - what i would like to know, is your ingame and fanalabsettings for different games/sims - Me im racing iracing. Really like the way the dd1 works and feels now - but maby im doing something stupid and lack some info from track..
Just ordered dd1 after watching many of your videos. These are great. Thanks for all the info. Really pumped to try dd1. Do you have any cube control wheels? I am interested in their csx 2 but don't know how will the purchasing experience be.
Great vid again. I was concidering one of these but will go with simucube now. I would have had to modify that crap rubber ring anyway by adding a aluminium taper washer to run up behind the wheel boss after it locates, to take out the play that the rubber can't do.
Older video but figured it wouldn't hurt to chime in on the explanation of how the wheels get their ffb. Instead of belts or gears its magnets wrapped in alternating routes of copper wire. Based on the amount of current passing through the passages will control the poles of the magnets either pushing or pulling the magnets that are on the wheel shaft. Very similar design to a cars starter motor with the only exception being that it can alternate rotations.
Just bought the DD1 Podium Bundle Lets goooo!
Great video, very informative - Im thinking of upgrading from my TX to a DD1 but then i would also have to get the simlabs p1-x rig too as my homemade wooden rig probably wouldn't hold up to the forces, opens up a can of worms but i know it would be so worth it
If your rig is torsionally stable then it will work fine I use High Forces on my DD and I am just using an IKEA Desk.. unfortunately my monitors make a lot of noise though as they are suspended and attached to the desk as well
@@brionsohn2705 Yes my rig is built into a old pc desk and is stable but the front of my wheel deck is angled downward to allow my tx to sit more straight on so i would have readjust it and it would be a ball ache with the amount of screws i used on it to make it sturdy
ive also been meaning to raise up my pedal deck which would be the same amount of hassle and a proper rig at this stage would also take up much less space - i would also suffer from the monitor moving around if bolted up and it would drive me crazy
Some very nice straight drawn lines there 😌
Nice review
Excellent video
Great video
Will- I Ordered a DD1 a few days ago and forgot to use your affiliate link. Is there a way to retroactively apply it so you get your commission? You’re the reason I made the upgrade.
Have you links to your settings for the DD1 in iRacing? Interesting video!
I know I want a DD base but that’s gonna have to wait, Simworx pedals need to be paid for! 😁
Showing those Red Bull DD1 stickers made me pull my wallet faster than Ferrari crashed out at Styria
Lol!
Where did you get the track decorations on the wall?
WOW!! thanks so much.
it would have been nice to talk about prices and where in Australia to buy them?
Hey mate, I'm a fellow Aussie and a beginner to Sim racing so I would really value your advice and opinion on beginners setup as the market for sim racing gear is very limited here in Australia. A lot of research is required and I've already spent countless hours looking up things, but as a beginner it's hard to know which way to go and it's actually starting to burn me out and frustrate me before I even begin.
Firstly do you think the Podium F1 racing wheel for PS4 is safe for a beginner? Unfortunately the CSL DD hasn't come to PS4 which I'd prefer so this is the next best thing on PS4. It looks so great but I don't want to have an injury after every crash. Would it be wise to put the FFB down to 10 torque power or below until I become more experienced? Or should I stick to a lower grade wheel instead?
Secondly I saw a UA-cam stream where the next level wheel stand DD had a bit of flex once holding this DD wheel. Can you please recommend a wheel stand that won't have flex and can be upgraded to a cockpit? I was looking into the Sim Lab P1-X but the postage cost for that from Europe almost amounts to a basic next level stand price available here so it's unrealistic for me as I don't really have the room or kind of money for that kind of postage nor a full cockpit in general.
Thirdly a seat. Where could I get a good sparco seat? Or can you please recommend me something?
I have an email address if you prefer to email me as this is already very long. I'm a subscriber we've chatted previously not that long ago. Cheers!
Love this thnak you and the dd1 is plenty for me I would never even use more then 15 nm peak I would stick around 10nm holding
On the DD2, do you get any 'clicking' under loaded/heavy turning conditions? I've checked Reddit, see a few things here-and-there, but nothing specific. It's nothing major, it's just a click or two, then it stops.
So if you run your wheel below the maximum holding torque do you still hit peak torque limits for certain things or do you bring the whole scale down?
Hey mate ... nice stuff! Any chance of a DD-1 vs CSW2.5 comparison? I'm wondering if it is worth stepping up ... 🤔
Going from cswv2 to the superior vrs was big leap in detail
any DD is better in detail than a belt or Gear drive.. I was the person to set up the fanatic 20th anniversary party DD stand which they then took to SimExpo and they had the CSW on it and there is honestly no comparison Side By Side.. The CSW feels extremely muted in comparison
So do you run the wheel FFB at 100% and then make adjustments in the game or do you set the wheel base to, say 80%
do You have any plans for competition or giveaway for DD1? :D
Where did you get the track layout decals on the wall? Awesome………
I am getting into SIM Driving and have PS5 (as there are exclusives like GT7), Xbox X, and PC. Which Fanatec will you recommend for the best experience?
I'm so confused what GT3 rim to buy. Any recommendations? Im buying the F1 rim with dd1 bundle but for those GT3 cars I wanted something. Something in the middle in terms of pricing
Getting your hands on a Simucube 2 Pro would be awesome. To compare with the DD1/DD2 since the ultimate is kind of out of the league of these wheelbases.
Simucube is definitely better, I'd be a lot less worried about it bricking out of warranty also...
After looking at my bank account, it's seems I should stick with my t80😢. Great video btw really informative
Are you telling me unemployment benefits haven't fatten your wallet?
It would be nice in Fanatec's payment system worked so I could order one of their DD2 bases.
Will this work on a Playseat F1? (I know it will fit, but will it be rigid enough?)
Hello,
Thanks for the great review. I just purchased one with the intention of mounting it on my power wheel chair. I should have asked if I can assign the throttle and brake to the analog paddles before I purchased it! Is this possible? I am paralyzed and became very excited about sim racing the moment I stumbled onto your channel. I have some ideas about building a motion rig that would attach to my power wheel chair and I was wondering if you do consulting? If so, maybe I could bounce my ideas off of you before starting the build. Anyway, Thanks for the videos.
YES you can
Excellent review :) Q: For the belt/gear bases, is the advertised torque of the motor or motor plus gearing multiplier.
There's no universal standard but it's usually the motor's strength I believe. When you use cogging or pullies to artificially increase the delivered torque, that comes at the cost of speed.
Motor plus gearing multiplier.
If the difference between the DD1 and DD2 is the same as the difference between the torque key in/out on the DD2(DD2, with torque key out, has the same torque as the DD1), then there is definitely a gap in performance/feel between the two bases. The DD2, in torque mode, is significantly more sharp and responsive, than being without the torque key inserted. Also, not sure how that's a surprise, because more torque just means more acceleration, given that everything else is equal.
Wow seeing the detail you are getting is insane lol
What is your experience with communicating to Fanatec and did your order came on the date they said it was coming. On the fanatec forum I see a lot of negative reactions.
Where did you get those track layout that u have on the wall?
What firmware version for the DD1 did you get to work?
What Fanalab version are you using? i’m using 1.24Beta. Is there anything newer? Thanks in advanced
That's still the most recent one.
I'm plenty happy to stay with my CSL Elite
Hi and thanks for you video. Got a question. When i crash with the DD1 for exemple into a wall the wheel make a big clap. Is that normal ? best regards.
Yes both the DD1 and DD2 I have do the same thing.
Yes, that’s normal (as already confirmed several times in the forum) ;)
@@boostedmedia Thanks a lot for your quick answer 👌 Best
Love my DD1 but sometimes the sustained force is a bit low in something like the RSR or oval driving. It causes bumps to be lost in the mid corner.
That sounds like a possible settings issue where if you have turned down the DD1 at the Wheelbase you may be clipping the car your are driving for the at the wheel force you are using which loses detail (assuming iRacing by the RSR and Oval together)
@@brionsohn2705 FFB is 90 and FEI is also pretty high. It's just not that much force unfortunately.
Recieved my dd1 and formula v2 wheel yesterday! Just waiting on the playseat sensation pro and I’m cooking with gas.
Did u go with it for the looks? an Rseat is better with the looks. But if u want the best cockpit, the Simlab P1-X is much better than any but looks are subjective. Trust me, the level of difference in how rigid both of these is significant
Danyal Reyaz to be honest I kinda jumped in quickly with the playseat sensation. After seeing other rigs I’m a bit disappointed I didn’t do more research.
I'm going to mount my dd1 on a Gt Omega Apex wheel stand for now. P1-X isn't available.
So I have a DD1 and when I first got it the recommended setting felt way too strong. Now that I have had it for a while I realize the consistent cornering force or NM is too low and kinda wish I had a DD2
That is the unfortunate thing is that most of the time the DD's feel like overkill at first but then you get used to it and realize there is so much more.. Do you have the DD1 already up to FF = 100? and are you on iRacing
Better to have it and not need it, than to want it and not have it. For that reason take the DD2 and turn down the strength as wanted, up for when you have become complacent.
I race on PC and PS4 so it has to be the DD1 for me. It's on my wish list!
holding back on a full DD2 set until I know what's up with next Gen compatibility, as I play GT Sport primarily.
DD2 has never been officially licensed and compatible with PS4 so I don't know why you expect it to be compatible with PS5.
@@1027hristo right, it may very well not be. The DD1 does have a PS4 model, though.
I have a Drivehub so if I wished to buy the DD2 now it would work with most functionality on PS4. But I'd rather wait and see.
@@XNINEZERO Why not buy a PC and save that extra $300 or whatever the "Ps4" version of DD2 will cost.
i was gonna get a DD1 but it was out of stock so i ended with a DD2 and selected it over simucube because you can change the torque while driving no need to change it in software Jimmi Broadbent race partner in Le Mans 24 hour had it stuck in 100% i never want to experience that in a official race
hello I have seen the video until the end I would be interested in moving from my Podium DD1 to an SC2 PRO My question is this: the SC2 Pro has a maximum peak of 25NM but I have not found anywhere it has sustained (always in NM) While Fanatec is simple 20NM with 15NM Thanks a lot for the answer.
Sustained torque means nothing in the world of DD wheels unless you are holding the wheel in clipping. it is a marketing thing with Fanatec.
Is there software you can run to tell how many Nm is being sent to the wheel while driving (either logging it or putting an overlay over a game)? Sorry if I missed that in the video; it was a bit too long to watch through its entirety.
It’s shown on the DD1 and DD2s display. But yeah o believe it’s part tod the temerity data that’s outputted via UDP for many sims, so can be logged.
@@boostedmedia perfect, thanks for the response! I'll take off my VR and look for it on the display :)
im a bit late on this video. haha none the less great video will, just a thought did you ever try put the dd2 torque key into the dd1 to try unlock full power? assuming its not that simple but could be worth a shot.
No it’s not that simple unfortunately. The torque key is just a bridge that tells the base to unlock high torque mode.
Good luck to anyone purchasing from Fanatec right now. Seems like every time I check my pre-order the availability date its been rolled back. Should have been arriving this coming week but now its the end of August. Customer service seems to be almost non-existent. The patience of a Saint and the nerve of a pro-gambler helps a lot when handing over the big hard earned $ to Fanatec.
Edit: Yeah I came back after watching all the way through and quite a bit of replaying. Bloody excellent video! Never thought I'd say it, but the part with the graph was really interesting. Congrats on scoring a quality content goal. And thanks.
Oh and btw. I’m on a budget and have the Ferrari F1 wheel from thrustmaster. Do u believe that the thrustmaster tx servo base is a good buy??
I haven't used one so can't really comment. Sorry.
Boosted Media its fine I appreciate it😁
PS DD owners I have the R300 rim with the endurance button module and have had my thumb nearly ripped off a couple of times while driving. A DD kill switch isn't a terrible idea.