Trouser construction Extended | Guide to a Bespoke Suit
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- Опубліковано 27 лис 2024
- This is an extended version of my trouser making video. It's the same but I leave in more sewing of seams to help illustrate what to do.
If you need trimmings I'd like it if you checked out my eBay shop: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/thecaffeinatedtailor
New? Start here - Intro and Hand Sewing: • Start here - Intro and...
/ thecaffeinatedtailor Follow for updates and stuff, I guess
What an exceptionally thorough tutorial ~ ie: a “Labor of Love” I was glued to my tv watching your every move. Thank you for this incredibly detailed video on constructing trousers. I learned so much !
I’m an aspiring tailor and I must say, your channel is absolutely GodSent!
I cannot thank you enough for bringing to light all of the tiny little details that make bespoke what it is, an extremely fine artisanship that requires enormous attention to detail, as well as feeling, for it is the most human way of making clothing.
Every stitch has a character, especially the bastings, and it is an absolute pleasure watching you work. Again, thank you!
Congratulations on your work good Sir
Vlad Pawlowsky
I watch the whole video and I must say you have a lot of patients but thanks
Am already a Taylor and did learn a few things from your video thank you
One of the things I hate is bassing
Wish I could of had one on one talk with you but thank you
@@alricmurray5490 well you're certainly patient to watch all of it.
I find basting less essential in certain cases as time has gone on and I've gotten better at stitching without it.
Glad to have been of some help
Fantastic video. Thank you. Perfectly crispy whispy!
You have given tailoring the touch of magic that makes the final outcome the allure it deserves.
Never seen anything like it on the net before.
Thanks for being awesome.
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you.
Awesome video. Thank you so much
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 😅
Hi, i just discover your tutorial and i find it very interesting. You described the basic process ( universal laws) of a trouser construction.I f you are to design a Tom Ford Trousers or a Dolce&Gabanna trosuers with a specific design how would you operate? What would you modify?
Are you able to realise a pattern starting from a Tom Ford trousers for example instead of the measurements?
I'm trying to learn this process.Do you have some books or atciles that can help learn these things? Best regards from France
I don't really understand the question. Is there a certain cut/silhouette to TF and DG trousers that you are looking to replicate? Or a construction method, or just the features of the trouser. Like a particular shape of the side strap.
If it's the shape and you wanted to replicate that, then since we don't know How the patterns are drafted then yes, I think you could try taking the measurements from a TF trouser.
@@caffeinatedtailor Hi, thanks for your reply.Let's say you took the measurements from a person to make a jacket and you draw on a piece of paper according to th a pattern you found on a book. You would like to modifiy the form of the lapel.Instead of the notched lapel you would like a shawl lapel or one of your own design or you would like to imitate one of a TF jacket..How would you do that on the piece of paper? First question
Suppose now, you have a client who do fitness and who have huge back muscles and you need to add some space in the back how would you do that in the piece of paper where you put the measurements? second question
Hope it's more clear now. Thanks
Thank you the clarification helps. The second question is more difficult for me because I don't have much/any training in fitting at the moment. Though I am aware that Savile Row Tales and Tom Mahon are actively working on a fitting series. Ideally that will help us all with fitting patterns.
First question, when your initial pattern is fitted and you know it's correct at that point you can start playing with it. It's mostly a case of preference or what you think is best.
At the moment, I prefer to copy the pattern onto new paper to keep the original and make the new shape and design.
I'm aware Redmayne prefer to have the one pattern and change it on the cloth, but they make rather common changes.
That's about as much as I can communicate. I hope it adds some clarity at least.
Thank you for your detailed video. A lining question for you: if the outer fabric is tweed (slightly itchy to skin), can lining be added to the back trouser pieces as well? If so, is the lining added to the back pieces in a similar manner as to the front pieces?
Do you think zippers are more classic than buttons on a trousers?
I'd venture that buttons were the classic option since they're older.
30:01 You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
I’m curious: Why is only the front leg ( and not the back leg) lined? Is it to reduce friction on the thigh fabric as one walks?
@@NadoCrowFriend I might get back with a more historically accurate answer later, but there are about 3 levels of lining: half (this one); full, where the front and back are lined as far down as the hem in the same basic method; and dropped in, where a second trouser is basically made of lining and attached on the inside of the waistband.
My assumption is that half lining is fastest and cheapest for cutters, so barring specific client needs the trouser will have half lining, or no lining at all.
Since it is the common feature/ method, for whatever reason, I included it in my guide
@@caffeinatedtailor Thank you for the explanation.
Is iron with steam enough to get all the shrinkage, some other videos suggest to soak the material in water to all foe the shrinkage?
Probably not, but it must do something.
You want to avoid getting lining wet at all. Steam is fine, but water won't come off. It's only canvas that is generally suggested to be soaked.
What were you rubbing on to the waistband at 1:21:38?
Cloth soap, or tailors soap if you like. I elaborate on its use in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cNiBZ6g3NMQ/v-deo.html
(Setting the fabric)
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
Great job
Thank you for the detailed video ☺️
12:05 12:05
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you
30:01 You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you.
30:01 You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you.
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you. 23:43
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you.
You are a great tailor, young and very talented, I am a tailor as well in USA, if I go to England I would like to meet you.