Actual Tailor Explains Pad Stitching for Perfect Collars & Lapels | Barbara of Royal Black Couture

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  • Опубліковано 3 бер 2020
  • If you’re in a hurry: active pad stitching demo from 13:47.
    More of Barbara’s work: / royalblack_couture
    She also produces corsetmaking and general couture sewing tutorials on her Patreon page! / posts
    Want to get started with hand sewing?
    🧵
    🕯Check out my Skillshare original course, “Hand Sewing Basics: Working Wonders with Fabric, Needle & Thread”. To sign up for a free trial and take the class, visit skl.sh/bernadettebanner1
    This channel is made possible through the generous support of Patreon members. To become a patron, visit / bernadettebanner (although videos will remain free for you here regardless).
    Beyond UA-cam:
    IG @bernadettebanner / bernadettebanner
    Management contact for business enquiries:
    bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com
    bernadettebanner.co.uk/
    Music:
    “Incidental Encounter” by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com
    Local Forecast by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
    Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
    Artist: incompetech.com/
    “Gentle Waves” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com
    “Charmed Encounter” by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 1,4 тис.

  • @dantem.ginsey4608
    @dantem.ginsey4608 4 роки тому +3665

    Some UA-camrs use fairy lights to achieve an aesthetic background. Bernadette has Cathy Hay.

    • @AgnetaOhneH
      @AgnetaOhneH 4 роки тому +153

      I actually laughed out loud at this comment. So accurate.

    • @brenningestiehr8762
      @brenningestiehr8762 4 роки тому +72

      A far better aesthetic for my tastes!

    • @Missmori
      @Missmori 4 роки тому +72

      Cathy Hay is Ultimate Aesthetic goals.

    • @tupeloholisticcenter
      @tupeloholisticcenter 4 роки тому +54

      Hahaha! I love it! I'd rather have Cathy Hay than fairy lights any day.

    • @nicischmidt7572
      @nicischmidt7572 4 роки тому +62

      Watching through the video I kept thinking, "Bernadette is using Cathy like some people use pets!" I think that Cathy makes an excellent cat; I wish I was half as good.

  • @FlybyStardancer
    @FlybyStardancer 4 роки тому +1406

    This was a great look at pad stitching!
    I do have to admit that when I saw Cathy in the background, I was hoping for some peanut gallery commentary and she did not fail!
    I would not be unhappy if Barbara came back to talk about flat patterning. :)

    • @roefane2258
      @roefane2258 4 роки тому +51

      FlybyStardancer yes, please. She’s so sweet and very good at using simple language without talking down. (The women who taught me how to sew made it sound like rocket science, and another instructor sounded like he was in pain by teaching a workshop)

    • @2noranora2
      @2noranora2 4 роки тому +3

      Hear hear

    • @TheClari25
      @TheClari25 4 роки тому +10

      Agreed. I've never sewed clothing because it seems so daunting (im a self taught hand sewer). This explained a lot about something I've always been very curious about

    • @heathergroves4497
      @heathergroves4497 4 роки тому +1

      Yes please!

    • @trainjackson63
      @trainjackson63 4 роки тому +4

      Yesssss, flat patterningggg!
      Basically seems like everyone I watch on youtube is more of a draper. I /cannot/ drape to save my life, nor do I want to because I'm one of those super precise people (despite hating math).
      Moar flat pattern making!

  • @manitoumimi
    @manitoumimi 4 роки тому +1614

    I’m a 60 year old man that recently became disabled due to spinal degeneration.
    I did a lot of laying and sitting around in the beginning of this disease, and so I was inspired to find a hobby to keep me busy/distracted from the monotony of it all. Since I used to play with leather crafting I wanted to make myself a jacket.
    I don’t lay around as much now that I’ve had treatment, so I’ve watched as many videos as I could find about making jackets (not many at all), and then I found you and your dress, lol.
    I love history and so I decided to watch your dive into an historic dress making challenge.
    I figured you dreamed as big as me, so why not see where you go, lol.
    Now I see that more than just stumbling across your channel for amusement, I was directed to your channel for the education that I needed to move forward on that jacket.
    Thanks for sharing your path.
    P.s.; I enjoyed your physics demonstration so much.
    I knew straight away what you were getting at.

    • @m.maclellan7147
      @m.maclellan7147 4 роки тому +66

      Good for you for leaping in to making. Glad to hear your treatments are working !
      Who knows, perhaps you'll do your own videos someday ?! (Or at least improve your wardrobe! )

    • @manitoumimi
      @manitoumimi 4 роки тому +28

      Margaret MacLellan Lol, thank you. I love your comment.

    • @m.maclellan7147
      @m.maclellan7147 4 роки тому +63

      @@manitoumimi One of the delightful aspects of these videos is that the folks who comment, are generally positive & kind. We need more of that today ! (58 year old woman.)

    • @m.maclellan7147
      @m.maclellan7147 4 роки тому +31

      @@stevezytveld6585 I think waistcoats are the "entry drug" for fashion ! ;)
      Love them myself !

    • @ValkyrieTiara
      @ValkyrieTiara 4 роки тому +20

      @@m.maclellan7147 I can't say I would mind seeing a video series of someone teaching themselves to craft a leather jacket

  • @yogawarriorgirl
    @yogawarriorgirl 4 роки тому +298

    As soon as she got into "I just draft it out on paper" I had the same reaction you did. PLEASE DO ANOTHER VIDEO WITH HER ON THAT. I would watch it for HOURS to absorb her wisdom.

    • @sayuriando3379
      @sayuriando3379 3 роки тому +6

      Yes, I want to hear the German ways of figuring this stuff out. Will probably be a bit easier for my german brain than trying to watch a english video on it and trying to figure the german equivalent out.

  • @seamlyshenanigans861
    @seamlyshenanigans861 4 роки тому +1914

    Insights into couture tailoring, a miniature TED talk, and bonus Cathy Content from the peanut gallery! Pad stitching is incredible!
    This video is 10/10!
    By the way, your hand demonstrations of the stitch placement were actually useful! I didn’t get it until you did that.

  • @dukeofhp
    @dukeofhp 4 роки тому +652

    I feel like I should pay for watching this video. Did I click on a Master Class video?

    • @olgahein4384
      @olgahein4384 4 роки тому +42

      Yeah, I totally second that. And Barbara IS a master, she got all the classical education and just take a look at her works on her website. She made this battle armor outfit for Floor Jansen, the (back then new) vocalist of Nightwish for live events. She makes whole outfits and dresses that are like out of the craziest fantasy fairytales. Her neck corsets are also exemplary.

    • @lapvona
      @lapvona 4 роки тому +5

      DukeofHaphazard I GOT A MASTERCLASS AD BEFORE THIS CIDEO STARTED

    • @francesca5295
      @francesca5295 4 роки тому +9

      well now...I think I should plead Bernadette to make a sewing master class ... like from the very basic.. that I'd buy it fast and would be so much useful

  • @beauchamp90
    @beauchamp90 4 роки тому +794

    As a guy who is trying to learn how to sew and how to make his own suit, this is really interesting and helpful. Most people on youtube that are into sewing are women who focus on women's fashion which is cool and inspiring to me, even as a guy (I'm actually subscribed to a lot of women who are sewing enthusiasts/costume makers/vintage fashion aficionados etc), but it's nice to find something like this that I can definitely apply to one of my own projects. 😊

    • @adorabell4253
      @adorabell4253 4 роки тому +18

      Emrys if you’re on FB check out the Self Sewn Wardrobe group. We’ve got a bunch on men in it and it’s a great community.

    • @BMB6482
      @BMB6482 4 роки тому +21

      If you decide to make videos of your sewing I'd love to watch ans sub, my son wants to leaen how ro sew and I'm sure he'd LOVE to see your progress.

    • @gracer2989
      @gracer2989 4 роки тому +35

      Sion-Dafydd Locke I avoid expensive mistakes by using old bedsheets to make mock-ups. Or at least I have for my only two finished projects.

    • @sion-dafyddlocke9913
      @sion-dafyddlocke9913 4 роки тому +23

      Grace R I’m impressed you know about mock ups starting out. I’m a big believer in that when I teach or develop patterns although I usually just order 108” muslin at $8/yd because I go through so much. But with traditional bespoke tailoring, there’s a lot of shaping done by stretching or shrinking the wool with dry or wet irons and unfortunately, that only works with wool. So when I’m teaching it, I start with smaller projects, less yardage, and keep it to $10-20/yd instead of the $50/yd suiting. I do the same with haircoat, use hymo instead of the $30+/yd stuff. Unfortunately, there’s no cheaper equivalent to French collar canvas, but you use so little, it doesn’t really hurt to bad if you have to recut.

    • @TanyaItkin
      @TanyaItkin 4 роки тому +9

      @@sion-dafyddlocke9913 Thanks, I was digging through the comment section for book recommendations

  • @lilibetp
    @lilibetp 4 роки тому +419

    Simple trick for remembering warp and weft, although it might only work if you're a Star Trek fan.
    Warp goes up and down (like warp speed goes up and down or higher and lower). Weft goes from "weft" to "wight."

    • @joannecarroll5504
      @joannecarroll5504 4 роки тому +21

      Thank you so much. Live long & prosper.

    • @millerlkme01
      @millerlkme01 4 роки тому +4

      Elizabeth Phillips this is great thank you!!

    • @JustSaralius
      @JustSaralius 4 роки тому +11

      I always think you "weave the weft", which makes sense to me (the word "weft" shares the same origin as "weave", although it's slightly more apparent in Swedish so that's probably why it makes sense in my Swedish head lol), but I don't know if it helps anyone else. XD
      The warp speed trick is good though. Gonna try to remember that too!

    • @dropdeaddork23
      @dropdeaddork23 4 роки тому +4

      Thank you so much Elizabeth! This is extremely helpful as I am a trekkie myself and I have a hard time with remembering which way the grain of fabric runs.

    • @veritas88n4
      @veritas88n4 4 роки тому +5

      Not even a Star Trek fan, but that placed that straight into my head. Thanks!

  • @emilyhunt8853
    @emilyhunt8853 4 роки тому +513

    Me ten seconds in- is that a wild Cathy Hay hiding in the background?? 😉

    • @kathleenwest1463
      @kathleenwest1463 4 роки тому +17

      Same! Hark, is that a wild Cathy Hay?

    • @danhurl1349
      @danhurl1349 4 роки тому +5

      SAME THOUGH

    • @jen360100
      @jen360100 4 роки тому +3

      Lol me too

    • @robertdelfavero6552
      @robertdelfavero6552 4 роки тому +9

      I was pleased just seeing her there. Then she spoke up!

    • @morningrose428
      @morningrose428 4 роки тому +6

      SAME. So happy to see more of our favorite sewing fairy godmother!!

  • @WayToVibe
    @WayToVibe 4 роки тому +650

    When you were going into physics and saying, "I'm so not explaining this well!" Yes, you were. I understood you clearly. The words were correct and your hand demonstrations were on point. Bernadette, you are s mart cookie! Not everyone can reduce sewing to physics and use it to explain couture tailoring. Anyone who has ever stitched a curve EVER is going to know exactly what you are talking about. Give yourself more credit

    • @MagnusMoerkoereJohannesen
      @MagnusMoerkoereJohannesen 4 роки тому +17

      "Anyone who has ever stitched a curve EVER is going to know exactly what you are talking about" being the operative sentence here, I think. I didn't understand a single thing until I saw Barbara in action :)

    • @alessandrahayes8544
      @alessandrahayes8544 4 роки тому +24

      Having never stitched a curve before I also understood what she was saying :) but having both the visual and verbal explanations in the video really helps!

    • @spacewolfcub
      @spacewolfcub 4 роки тому +10

      I was thinking plate tectonics, but the movement of her hands is what triggered recognition of the concept for me. 10/10 on multi-sensory explanations! 🥰

    • @daalelli
      @daalelli 3 роки тому +5

      As someone who has never stitched a curve, I understood the physics bit right off. I've seen pad stitching before and it made sense to my brain as soon as I saw it, but I also know the inside of a curve has less length than the outside of a curve .

    • @stacirizner4461
      @stacirizner4461 Рік тому

      Turn of Cloth is what this is called.

  • @sinswept
    @sinswept 4 роки тому +133

    Love Cathy Hay just hanging out in the background going "Been there, pad stitched that, got the structured t-shirt".
    And I love Royal Black Couture! Her corsets are exquisite.

  • @susanrussell8195
    @susanrussell8195 3 роки тому +104

    When I took a sewing class in college, the professor had us cut the undercollar of our shirt about an 1/8” to 3/16” smaller than the over collar. The smaller size helped the collar roll over. It was the best class ever - sewing for non clothing construction majors.

  • @sugarcoatedgoggles
    @sugarcoatedgoggles 4 роки тому +204

    How did you know that I just cracked open a book on Elizabethan tailoring and needed this video so bad? This video was excellent, thank you!

    • @alskarmode
      @alskarmode 4 роки тому +6

      Sugar's Shameless Shapes Ooo what is the book called? How do you like it?

    • @sayuriando3379
      @sayuriando3379 3 роки тому

      The next time I'm in the libary I will be checking some sewing books out.

  • @sparklinggrey3
    @sparklinggrey3 4 роки тому +507

    I swear this is withcraft! It was magical seeing that bulge appear after only a few rows of pad stitching

    • @yasmineafifi4514
      @yasmineafifi4514 4 роки тому +24

      sparklinggrey3 sewing is witchcraft... 🔮

    • @taritangeo4948
      @taritangeo4948 4 роки тому +27

      @@yasmineafifi4514 creative, enjoyable amd beneficial to all parties involved exept mass manifacturers - truly witchcraft

    • @riz3310
      @riz3310 4 роки тому +16

      There are few things more witchy than embodying your personality into an object through work.

    • @cynthiabrogan9215
      @cynthiabrogan9215 4 роки тому

      sparklinggrey3 as a witch I can confirm that sewing is not witchcraft. You really think I can sew? Oh hell naw hun waayyyy to hard!

  • @naomijoy8288
    @naomijoy8288 4 роки тому +10

    I came to youtube to start some music up, but my 3 yo daughter saw your video in the suggested titles and said "berdette! That one, that one!" I asked if she liked your videos and she said "me love her, she happy". Needless to say, your videos are intriguing to all in this house

    • @bernadettebanner
      @bernadettebanner  4 роки тому +3

      😭❤

    • @naomijoy8288
      @naomijoy8288 4 роки тому +2

      I can just barely sew together a tear in a stuffed animal and don’t plan on making any wardrobes, but we have all learned quite a few things from your videos. Well, that and they are soothing and respectable. Too many drama filled channels with disguised harmful content on here, yours has been a breath of fresh air 💜💚

  • @LindzChannel
    @LindzChannel 4 роки тому +128

    Here I am, making clothing for my senior capstone with no training, just using the internet and some old books to learn techniques...videos like this help me soooooo much to understand WHY I'm being told to do certain things. I do not have the time to redo my notched collar coat before next month but this does give me dreams on how to do it better in the future!

  • @thecadaver
    @thecadaver 4 роки тому +248

    Royal Black AND Bernadette!! This is incredibly relevant to my interests before the sewing talk has even begun.

    • @MoniqueAO888
      @MoniqueAO888 4 роки тому +1

      I have the impression that Barbara is the REAL artist. :-)

  • @tracymaybrown2261
    @tracymaybrown2261 4 роки тому +353

    A priceless tutorial, thank you both. Hand stitching is so therapeutic and calming for me, and wearing something I know I’ve put so much time and care into is just incredibly satisfying. However, Cathy plays a poor Cesario 🤭

    • @bernadettebanner
      @bernadettebanner  4 роки тому +185

      😂😂😶
      Sometimes she squeaks tho

    • @jollyjeangiant
      @jollyjeangiant 4 роки тому +33

      ... And I just spilled coffee on myself from laughing so hard. This is why I wear a very thick robe!

    • @alisonbufarale3406
      @alisonbufarale3406 2 роки тому

      I love hand stitching too! My coworker thinks I’m crazy. She HATES it and avoids it at all cost. ❤️ 🪡

  • @pheart2381
    @pheart2381 4 роки тому +451

    Its like boning a fish fillet but in reverse. You put the bones back in.

    • @rudetuesday
      @rudetuesday 4 роки тому +15

      This is an intriguing idea, and I think I'll have to come up with a way to use this imagery/idea. Thanks!

    • @spacewolfcub
      @spacewolfcub 4 роки тому +34

      I love this fishy comment comes with a side of Cat profile pic. 😄

    • @sewpunny6789
      @sewpunny6789 4 роки тому +22

      Fabric is just a boneless suit

    • @annonimooseq1246
      @annonimooseq1246 4 роки тому +10

      Sewpunny I hate this, thank you so much

    • @Sage-qd6tf
      @Sage-qd6tf 3 роки тому +1

      Indeed

  • @9nineofhearts9
    @9nineofhearts9 4 роки тому +47

    Bernadette: Now I need to redo all the pad-stitching I've ever done
    Me, holding my WIP Keystone waistcoat in trembling hands: Same.

  • @JaleaWard
    @JaleaWard 4 роки тому +63

    I find pad-stitching equal parts relaxing and stressful! Thankyou for the master-class, I've only ever learned out of books, so seeing it done by the lovely Barbara is fantastic. I didn't know about the pressing after stitching bit, that's so useful , thankyou!

    • @bernadettebanner
      @bernadettebanner  4 роки тому +21

      Neither did I--definitely going to help for future pad stitching endeavors!

  • @jessicafroelich6813
    @jessicafroelich6813 4 роки тому +82

    The subtitles at 5:09 made me laugh. Seeing the description "Britishly" made my day.
    Cathy: [Britishly] Carry on.

  • @ShapeShifterKibayo
    @ShapeShifterKibayo 4 роки тому +76

    The culture which I have grown up in, we for the most part create all our own garments. However I have never enjoyed it. We use the modern day sewing machines of course. Ever since I have stumbled upon your channel and tried hand sewing myself rather than relying on the machine I have discovered to my delight that I very much enjoy hand sewing. Even when it takes much longer. I don't know what it is about it that makes me enjoy it over something as quick as the sewing machine. Yet I love it so! Thank-you for helping me discover something I never dreamed I would enjoy!

    • @KaidaMizu
      @KaidaMizu 4 роки тому

      Can I ask what culture?

    • @ShapeShifterKibayo
      @ShapeShifterKibayo 4 роки тому +8

      @@KaidaMizu Mennonite. There are many different kinds. From super conservative types to you wouldn't even guess that they are mennonite. I would say my family is kinda in the middle of the spectrum. We don't hold to tradition but we don't hide it either. I love wearing a good ol' straight model dress that I know I have fashioned.

    • @CassandrasCreativeConcoctions
      @CassandrasCreativeConcoctions 2 роки тому +2

      I used to hate hand sewing, and tried to avoid it as much as possible. However in recent years I have done some projects that required hand stitching, and the more I do, the more connected I feel to past generations of wonderful ladies in my family, who didn't have all the modern tools of today. I was blessed to learn sewing from both my Mother and Grandmother, wish I had paid attention better, as I am still , and always learning. Loving these videos, thank you!

    • @ChestersonJack
      @ChestersonJack 2 роки тому +3

      Frankly I get nervous with a sewing machine, they confuse and overwhelm me and I like being able to have greater control of each stitch by using my hands. Now if only I had the time lil

  • @kathrynwarren4092
    @kathrynwarren4092 4 роки тому +8

    Peanut gallery was an amazing addition. It’s surprisingly soothing to see Cathy in the background just havin a good time and doin her thing.

  • @mmw55122
    @mmw55122 4 роки тому +76

    This is a fantastic tutorial! I always assumed that pad stitching was useful for holding different fabrics together so they could be sewn without significant shifting. But this vid introduces (to me) an even greater use! Now, hopefully, my collars and lapels will look and act better! Yes, please, more tutorials like this--and thank you!

  • @the-shadowed-gallery
    @the-shadowed-gallery 4 роки тому +89

    17:13, Bernadette's "Listen well, children" look made me immediately go and turn on my iron. #youshouldbepressing

  • @Lovely7606
    @Lovely7606 4 роки тому +3

    who else would watch a video of just her hand stitching? asmr style no fancy mics no talking just a compliation of a close up of her hands and all the hand stitching she does. idk why but it calms me watching her craft

  • @elizabethcalvert5844
    @elizabethcalvert5844 4 роки тому +25

    I love this! So many patterns skim over the details that elevate a well sewn garment to that next level.
    Also, Bernadette tossing her phone off the table is a MOOD and I so empathize! 🤣

  • @berkleypearl2363
    @berkleypearl2363 4 роки тому +282

    This makes me want to take all the floppy lapels and collars off my cheap jackets and fix them according to these instructions

    • @storytellingsnek5255
      @storytellingsnek5255 4 роки тому +15

      I mean... No one's stopping you? Do a few practice runs and go for it. I have to agree with the other reply though, pockets first. Pockets are always first regardless the garment.

    • @mariahhenderson1470
      @mariahhenderson1470 4 роки тому +2

      @@storytellingsnek5255 why pockets first?

    • @veritas88n4
      @veritas88n4 4 роки тому +1

      @@stevezytveld6585 Sí!

    • @mariahhenderson1470
      @mariahhenderson1470 4 роки тому +2

      @@stevezytveld6585 reasonable

    • @dcinrb8538
      @dcinrb8538 3 роки тому +4

      In a later video, Bernadette Banner resews a coat she had made from a modified commercial pattern. She incorporated the padding and pressing lessons to improve the fit of the coat. As for myself, I've mostly re-done buttonholes, linings and hems on my older coats and jackets. I hated sewing welt pockets, so none of my current wardrobe has any to repair. Take care and be safe 😷

  • @Chibihugs
    @Chibihugs 4 роки тому +42

    This is fascinating. Barbara, thank you for this wonderful introduction into pad stitching. By the way Bernadette, your explanation of how the physics of it did make sense. So neat. Also Yay for a Cathy cameo

  • @wonderwend1
    @wonderwend1 4 роки тому +16

    Barbara is so generous in teaching us!
    She has THE most beautiful nails too.
    Cathy in the background always adds that extra bit of love and class 💖

  • @espere_
    @espere_ 4 роки тому +19

    I love the way Barbara explains things! I saw her in one of the free Foundations Revealed videos when enrollment was open and she seems so knowledgeable and detail-oriented. Such a treat to see her here! Also pad stitching is witchcraft. So much shape!

  • @lollingaround
    @lollingaround 4 роки тому +38

    Barbara reminds me of Edna Mode, and I will die for them both

  • @immortalbloodd
    @immortalbloodd 4 роки тому +42

    the part where you were trying desperately to explain the physics of stitching was relatable on such a personal level. Wow

  • @lagranmariachi
    @lagranmariachi 4 роки тому +21

    So, I didn't notice Kathy on the back... Then I did and my heart just melted with even more mush. I love these ladies!

  • @tori8646
    @tori8646 4 роки тому +4

    I got so excited to watch when I saw you had uploaded and audibly gasped in suprise and happiness to see Cathy in the background

  • @Noel.Chmielowiec
    @Noel.Chmielowiec 4 роки тому +42

    Finally I get it, that's how you make collars and stuff not laying awkward! Thanks Bernadette and Barbara, my life is complete now :D
    I love Cathy casually stitching in the background, like nothing is going on, but let's be honest, she's The Cathy Hay and she can sew wherever the hell she wants :D And Bernadette throwing phone away, it was priceless :D

  • @leila_h_photography
    @leila_h_photography 4 роки тому +49

    Love the stealth-Cathy in the background! 😁

  • @maeganschaefer8217
    @maeganschaefer8217 4 роки тому +18

    This makes sense thank you for explaining it more in-depth. Also love how Cathy Hay is just seeing in the background and pipes in occasionally with comments. Made my morning, thank you for all the time and energy that went into making this.

  • @w26240
    @w26240 4 роки тому +18

    The content on UA-cam does not get any better than this. A real masterpiece, Thank You Bernadette.

  • @sarahrobargemassagetherapy7592
    @sarahrobargemassagetherapy7592 4 роки тому +45

    I have been trying to learn how to do this on my own, and I've been so frustrated. Thank you for elaborating on this technique.

  • @aerolb
    @aerolb 4 роки тому +19

    Great video! Love Royal Black Couture's creations and it's nice to listen to her talk! And you match outfits! ^_^ Nice to see Cathy in the background!

  • @SuziSmartPhoto
    @SuziSmartPhoto 4 роки тому +7

    Wow! Pad stitching demystified in one great video. Great hand demonstration regarding the physics... as others mention don't underestimate yourself. And Cathy's timely demonstration of the final position of the piece was perfect. Thank you! ♥️ I look forward to future videos on all things tailoring, most especially pressing and flat patterning
    And now, please excuse me while I go acquire the materials for my dream wool coat.

  • @jaythebookfiend1541
    @jaythebookfiend1541 9 місяців тому +4

    Holy curves, Batman! I’ve never liked fusing interface, time-saving notwithstanding, and now that someone’s explained what’s going on with the fabric manipulation, I have justification to leave it behind forever. This is such a lovely collaboration! Bernadette knows what just which questions to ask Barbara for her audience, and they strike a really warm tone; it makes for some of the most accessible sewing instruction I’ve seen.

  • @tetrahedric9217
    @tetrahedric9217 4 роки тому +19

    Graduated with a BA in fashion design and was never taught this! Thank you so much for sharing I'm excited to start using these techniques in my future projects

  • @caitlinwright8585
    @caitlinwright8585 4 роки тому +242

    Phone: *buzzes
    Bernadette: Oh, hush. *yeets phone
    lmao! Me every time my phone goes off when I'm working on something fun.

    • @honeybrained
      @honeybrained 4 роки тому +1

      timestamp for this?

    • @danim3738
      @danim3738 4 роки тому +2

      @that stupid tardis noise, it's right at the end in the bloopers

    • @cherylwiglover8400
      @cherylwiglover8400 4 роки тому +4

      That was *almost* the best part! RFLMAO

    • @cruelcimmcia859
      @cruelcimmcia859 4 роки тому +9

      Looks calm but the action itself was *savage*

    • @BobSuzanne
      @BobSuzanne 4 роки тому

      @@honeybrained Very end of the video

  • @dawngable4622
    @dawngable4622 4 роки тому +8

    Omg ...I just went to Barbara's page and just WOW...her work is breathe taking. I wish I could do that level of work...
    Love you Bernadette...and hello to Cathy.

  • @lakelili
    @lakelili 4 роки тому +6

    Fascinating. Thank you! Just realized that Barbara was the couture that made the corset Floor Jansen of Nightwish wore on their Decades tour.

  • @mariem.c.9193
    @mariem.c.9193 4 роки тому +153

    Wonderful to meet Barbara. How did you find her? Does she do all her sewing my hand or does she also use a sewing machine? Hi Cathy! What are you working on? Are you both in the New York or London? 🧵🧵🧵

    • @bernadettebanner
      @bernadettebanner  4 роки тому +138

      This was filmed whilst I was in London--Cathy, Barbara and I were shooting a little thing for the upcoming Foundations Revealed enrolment period, as Barbara is one of the mentors! No, she doesn't do *all* of her stitching by hand--but there is a lot of hand work required in traditional tailoring, and as she is a couture tailor, a lot of her precision work is done by hand.:)

    • @System-zu7np
      @System-zu7np 4 роки тому +22

      @@bernadettebanner Such a delightful video and I adore her accent it's adorable. Thankfully most of my projects don't require pad stitching but the insights were really interesting, maybe one day I'll take on something where I can apply the information in the video.
      Thank you so much for your videos, I squeal a little whenever I see a new upload. They are so well done

    • @meghannplummer14
      @meghannplummer14 4 роки тому +9

      Bernadette Banner ooooh- any info you can share on when the next enrollment period opens?

    • @janeilglazier7586
      @janeilglazier7586 4 роки тому +4

      Cathy Hay Oh my!! Added to calendar!!👍🏻

    • @wynterraine4278
      @wynterraine4278 4 роки тому +2

      Barbara does fantastic work with making custom made corsets. I follow her on Facebook, Royal Black corset.

  • @larkmacgregor3143
    @larkmacgregor3143 4 роки тому +45

    Another reason to love my grandmother's tailor ham: shaping pad stitched collars. :-) Thank you, Barbara, for the demonstration, and Bernadette for bringing her to us!

  • @xtremely04
    @xtremely04 4 роки тому +14

    I love how Cathy Hay is just chilling there in the background until her actual cameo

  • @moleary42
    @moleary42 4 роки тому +24

    Is it just me who loves the look of pad stitching? Honestly it's kind of a shame that it's hidden, especially when done so beautifully ❤️❤️❤️

  • @wren_roeglass
    @wren_roeglass 4 роки тому +25

    THAT YEET KILLED ME. So relatable.

  • @bengtevandenvegte
    @bengtevandenvegte 4 роки тому +19

    I just love how Cathy is calmly working in the background😂

  • @carolann811
    @carolann811 4 роки тому +6

    I watched this twice through with a glass of Marsala because an explanation of pad stitching by an expert, whist being interviewed by an expert with an expert peanut gallery deserved more than one viewing.
    I so wish I could sew. I so wish I could create the ball gown in my mind's eye and go to Bath. But arthritis has said that's not going to happen. So, Bernadette, I live vicariously through your needle and thread. I bleed when you prick your finger. I grow frustrated at unpicking stitches. With you I dither in equal parts exquisite indecision and happy exhalation in fabric choices, and rejoice in that moment when everything comes together in perfect harmony.
    That was a little over done but I'm a writer at heart, not a seamstress. Carry on with the wonderfulness that is your channel.

  • @ello_verity7667
    @ello_verity7667 4 роки тому +21

    I’m living for these Cathy Cameos 🥰
    And also for the rest of the fantastic people and content appearing in a Bernadette(TM) video. You are wonderful! And this was so helpful, thank you to your guest!!

  • @amysakovich8555
    @amysakovich8555 4 роки тому +12

    This is UA-cam gold. Thank you both for sharing your brilliance

  • @Wildevis
    @Wildevis 4 роки тому +9

    Thats was great and I will defintely try this when I do a jacket/coat again as I have never done it before. Cathy;s little smirks at the back was very amusing and she did not fail to photo bomb lol

  • @elaniarkady7351
    @elaniarkady7351 4 роки тому +3

    I enjoy watching Cathy be the helpful peanut gallery. :) I've never seen this done before. This is fabulously helpful.

  • @hattierensberry2526
    @hattierensberry2526 4 роки тому +1

    Oooooo! I love this content! Cathy Hay, Bernadette Banner, the lovely Barbara, and so much well-explained and pertinent information!

  • @shoshimp1309
    @shoshimp1309 4 роки тому +84

    Last time I was this early, tailors rioted Barthelemy Thimonnier's factory

  • @lizhart81
    @lizhart81 4 роки тому +10

    This is wonderful, thank you both!
    It's always a treat to see a master craftsperson at work.

  • @jennilumikettu7466
    @jennilumikettu7466 4 роки тому +13

    Trying to concentrate on learning new technique while trying to see what Cathy's doing on the background. 👀 Thank you for this video! It'll come handy when I start my waistcoat try-outs..

  • @darkiee69
    @darkiee69 4 роки тому +86

    Two beautiful victorian maidens, under the watchful eye of their aunt, chatting about sewing.

    • @bluewaterpines8323
      @bluewaterpines8323 4 роки тому +7

      Cathy Hay is not that old. Even if she appears as older Aunt, believe me she is very young. Holler back when she has her 80th, make that 85th birthday.

    • @darkiee69
      @darkiee69 4 роки тому +2

      @@bluewaterpines8323 She's 63, so she's old enough in years (though not in heart and mind) to be their aunt.

    • @thebookwyrmslair6757
      @thebookwyrmslair6757 4 роки тому +8

      @@darkiee69 that's not at all possible! I'd peg Cathy as MAYBE her early 40s, tops.

    • @thebookwyrmslair6757
      @thebookwyrmslair6757 4 роки тому +7

      @@darkiee69 Yay!! I guessed it! SHE is 45. One of her commenters is 63. :) Thank you!

    • @xiola
      @xiola 4 роки тому +11

      @@thebookwyrmslair6757 45 is plenty old enough to be an aunt of people in their late 20's though; if you're the youngest child and your much-older sister has a child you're still their aunt; being an "aunt" has fairly little to do with one's own age. I'm 38 and got carded last time I bought liquor but I wouldn't mind being someone's aunt. I think many of us think of aunts as "old enough to be a supportive mentor, young enough to be a friend" but I suppose it depends what kind of aunts you've met lol.

  • @apollonianeumer3094
    @apollonianeumer3094 4 роки тому +18

    Wonderfully helpful! Now I really want to sew something that needs padstitching :D

  • @nauci
    @nauci 4 роки тому +5

    Haven't even watched the video and I'm already having fan spasms. Barbara is THE most amazing and talented AND the sweetest person to ever pick up a sewing needle

  • @karisap
    @karisap 4 роки тому +8

    I would love to hear more about her patterning technique! I prefer drafting patterns flat rather than draping since I don't have a dress form (and I just find it comes more naturally). However I then tend to make a lot of mockups with trial and error, and that is not the most efficient.

  • @jollyjeangiant
    @jollyjeangiant 4 роки тому +11

    Don't get me wrong, I love your solo videos Bernadette, but you are such an excellent interviewer. You don't seem to trust your own skill in this, but you are great at drawing out your guest, and getting them to nerd out on their topic. 😎 Thank you Barbara!

  • @LadyBama
    @LadyBama 4 роки тому +196

    Okay. Now, I realize why I only crochet and knit, and the Grandmother’s sewing machine is silent.😜

    • @maryblaylock6545
      @maryblaylock6545 4 роки тому +27

      Oh, please don't give up! Do simple projects until your confidence level rises and then try something a little more challenging and when you have questions don't be afraid to ask! Asking reduces your frustration. Hand-stitching is a peaceful occupation. Almost zen-like.

    • @alexataglance0303
      @alexataglance0303 4 роки тому +4

      Same 🤣 I’ve made scrunchies and heat therapy bags and that’s about all the sewing I’m capable of. That stuff is too complicated 🤣🤣

    • @KoriEmerson
      @KoriEmerson 4 роки тому +11

      Honestly , I do both of those as well. And machine stitching makes me cry. But hand stitching... I bet you would LOVE IT. It's like when you get going with knitting in the round and you have memorized the main pattern for the body of a sweater and you just get in this groove. It is so lovely to do . Just so relaxing.

    • @Nikki-tx6kh
      @Nikki-tx6kh 4 роки тому +1

      My Gran was also the one who taught me to knit. She had also an old sewing machine I was fascinated as a kid, but it got broken down way before I was born and she could never got into fix it. Thinking in get my own machine now tho.

    • @vivianc.c.3379
      @vivianc.c.3379 4 роки тому +6

      Well I find crochet and knitting much more difficult to catch than sewing 🤣🤣

  • @silverlightx6
    @silverlightx6 4 роки тому +63

    Also, minor geek over realizing that Barbara made Floor Jansen's amazing corsets/costumes. Odd crossover between Symphonic Metal and History bounding/sewing witchery.. but I'm enjoying it.

  • @piccolo4di
    @piccolo4di 4 роки тому +4

    I learned to pad stitch from family before the invention of fusible interfacing, which may be why I never use it. This is a wonderful tutorial for newbies and a fabulous refresher for those with more experience. Thank you for yet another great video. I look forward to your next one.

  • @sachdevalamin3174
    @sachdevalamin3174 4 роки тому +1

    You three women are absolutely precious! Kathy's demonstration of the under collar was timely. I'm grateful to you for immortalizing these techniques as well as historical dress.

  • @elisabetfinlayson8539
    @elisabetfinlayson8539 4 роки тому +21

    Oh I love pad stitching, but thank you Barbara for explaining what the hell I was doing in a detail so that I now fully understand. 😂 Thank you Bernadette. Also the phone throw. 😂

  • @frankyboy4409
    @frankyboy4409 4 роки тому +103

    Me like "wait I know that accent" ... looks at insta profile ... "Vienna / Austria". Eeeey fellow Austrian represent :D

    • @barbarablack5586
      @barbarablack5586 4 роки тому +4

      :D

    • @bookworm7393
      @bookworm7393 4 роки тому +1

      I knew it! :D Hi from Tyrol ^^

    • @frankyboy4409
      @frankyboy4409 4 роки тому +1

      @@bookworm7393 Servus :)

    • @bookworm7393
      @bookworm7393 4 роки тому +1

      @@frankyboy4409 Griaß di ^^

    • @butterblumeimtopf
      @butterblumeimtopf 4 роки тому +8

      I was scrolling through the comments looking if someone already said it. I did the exact same thing. Fellow Austrian here as well. :D

  • @ashleyalexwallace
    @ashleyalexwallace 4 роки тому +1

    Not only was I excited to learn something new and understand the stitch, I got to see some of my favorite ladies! Bernadette and Cathy!!!!
    (No joke I squealed when I saw both of you lovely ladies in a video together.)

  • @k2lar
    @k2lar 4 роки тому +1

    Barbara is delightful. Thank you for having her on the channel!!!

  • @dymphygoossens
    @dymphygoossens 4 роки тому +20

    I loved this video. I will give it a try on a future coat that I will make... when I have time.
    Thank you for making these videos! I recently started getting back into sewing and I started with an easy project to get back into it - a bag for my airbedpump. It is incredibly relaxing, useful to practice my stitches and sometimes wonky because I could not be bothered to even mark down the seams. Little things do matter.

  • @rauha38
    @rauha38 4 роки тому +4

    I find myself in the Land of AWE and don't even want to find the way out. The amount of skill Ms. Barbara has is incredible!

  • @lindaliang3825
    @lindaliang3825 9 місяців тому +1

    I am watching her stitch the horsehair canvas to the wool. Her hands are so experienced. She doesn't even look at the underside to see the tiniest stitch of catching one thread. Very impressive! And yes, it is very soothing and relaxing when you know what you're doing.

  • @a_sterling4514
    @a_sterling4514 4 роки тому +2

    Yes, please, please, please make a video on pattern drafting. It is the greatest bane of my sewing attempts.

  • @reysg6132
    @reysg6132 4 роки тому +114

    All hail thimbles, the saviours of our fingers

    • @AM-os4ty
      @AM-os4ty 4 роки тому +6

      Honestly, it shocks me sometimes how much hand sewing I see on UA-cam without thimbles. Any sewer should know how to use them.

    • @SG41372
      @SG41372 4 роки тому +1

      Amen !

    • @reysg6132
      @reysg6132 4 роки тому +2

      @@AM-os4ty just thinking of someone who does see often enough to be putting it on youtube go through it without a thimble makes my finger ache. Is it people who usually sew via machine or is there really people who go by hand and dont know the wonders of a thimble I wonder

    • @elizabethcalvert5844
      @elizabethcalvert5844 4 роки тому +6

      In my experience, most people forgo thimbles because they've only ever tried metal ones that don't fit them properly. They try to use one too big and it just falls off so they don't bother.

    • @reysg6132
      @reysg6132 4 роки тому +2

      @@elizabethcalvert5844 I get that. I used to struggle with the big thimble for ages until I was made aware that they are sized. True eye opener

  • @dancooper-jones
    @dancooper-jones 4 роки тому +9

    This came at just the right time for me! I'm making my husband a victorian inspired overcoat from a pattern I found (it was a linked one to the keystone jacket and dress). I've tackled the mock up, and tomorrow I'm dealing with the collar and lapel mock up, so this was superbly timed! Thanks to you both, and to the brief cathy hay appearance. (Love how she's just I'm the background doing her own thing). Hope you had a great time in England, and our storms didn't cause you too much travel disruption.

  • @antoinetteaniton7583
    @antoinetteaniton7583 4 роки тому +7

    Very informative and I liked that there was close up of her actually doing the stitch. Would like to see other tailoring stitches she mentioned demo'd.

  • @DaveTpletsch
    @DaveTpletsch 4 роки тому +1

    What a delight! There's nothing more pleasant to me than seeing a craftsperson teaching something they are passionate about. Thank you for this.

  • @SerenityVonSavage
    @SerenityVonSavage 4 роки тому +4

    I'm pad stitching a 17th century doublet this week and needed the refresher. Thank you.

  • @FlorianReichardt
    @FlorianReichardt 4 роки тому +13

    Correct me if I’m wrong but I think Cathy has made a huge progress with her voice. And she’s a good addition to the background too😂

  • @rescueumbrella
    @rescueumbrella 2 роки тому +1

    The subtle aspects of what this woman knows mind-blowing! I will definitely be watching this again with a new way of assimilating what she is teaching.

  • @wizardrobez
    @wizardrobez 4 роки тому +1

    This is going to be super useful when I make my 1860s waistcoat. I also loved watching Cathy stitching away in the peanut gallery!

  • @giacomomontanari4985
    @giacomomontanari4985 4 роки тому +6

    "When you want to appear professional and life happens" truest words were never spoken

  • @alyseblend7622
    @alyseblend7622 4 роки тому +4

    I needed this so badly!!!! Wonderful information! Much thanks to the most wholesome people I know of!!! Best wishes and stitches to all of you!❤️

  • @agypsycircle
    @agypsycircle 4 роки тому +1

    Starts to talk about complex German formulas used in pattern drafting...Bernadette gives a look of complete Math panic and changes the subject back to pad sticking! Too adorable! And the Cathy Hay quietly doing things in the background is completely adorable as well!

  • @ShethTora
    @ShethTora 4 роки тому +18

    I’m still working on making a simple skirt and heat pack, I can’t imagine how long it would take me to get to the point of this skill... yet I’m still watching this at 1am.

    • @woodenkat8971
      @woodenkat8971 4 роки тому +2

      I have a simple sew pants pattern. I'm scared of the stupid elastic that I haven't touched it for a week. Courage! We will get there if we want it! Also, please get some sleep! Sewing is much easier with sleep!

    • @ShethTora
      @ShethTora 4 роки тому +1

      @@woodenkat8971 You will get there.
      Also while sewing is easier with sleep, youtube is good at 1am.

    • @woodenkat8971
      @woodenkat8971 4 роки тому +1

      @@ShethTora Very true. But work at six kinda screws that up.

  • @rburns8083
    @rburns8083 4 роки тому +11

    Oh my goodness, thank you for this! I can not describe how confused I was from descriptions I've seen before this.
    And bonus a bonus Kathy appearance, too!

  • @melissacoleman2380
    @melissacoleman2380 4 роки тому +5

    This is Amazing! Thank you for introducing us to Barbara and teaching about pad stitching. Please have her back on sometime

  • @mouseluva
    @mouseluva 4 роки тому +1

    I'm not at the stage of sewing where I am making anything with enough shape for pad stitching to be useful, but I'm definitely storing it away in the back of my mind for when it becomes useful!
    However, you will be pleased to know that while watching this I became inspired to start work switching the rushed top stitch on the hem of my kirtle to proper felling! I finished it hurriedly for an event and spent the entire day with the indented line of top stitching catching my eye and making me scream internally, so now I am felling it instead to get that wonderful period appropriate dent that only felling can bring.
    WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO ME BERNADETTE BEFORE I FOUND YOUR CHANNEL IN LATE 2018 I HAD NEVER HEARD OF ANYONE DOING HISTORICAL METHOD SEWING AND NOW I AM FELLING THE HEM OF MY KIRTLE WITH A DEEP CONTENTMENT IN MY SOUL

  • @kateparker8546
    @kateparker8546 4 роки тому +2

    Its mind-blowing to me that someone so young can have that level of mastery! Just wonderful!

  • @gardengirl4718
    @gardengirl4718 4 роки тому +7

    Wow! Excellent information! Thank you for this one Bernadette!

  • @gaslitworldf.melissab2897
    @gaslitworldf.melissab2897 4 роки тому +4

    When you post, it's like smelling coffee first thing. I can't wait to watch.

  • @skellyvee
    @skellyvee 4 роки тому +2

    Barbara's voice is so relaxing... I'm learning so much, I would love to hear more from her. I'm so interested in tailoring but it seems like such a hard place to start. Meanwhile, I am watching and listening and darning socks simultaneously... Thanks Benadette! xx

  • @treemerryweather
    @treemerryweather 4 роки тому +1

    thank you for this demonstration. I don't think i've been more impressed by stitchery magic.