Ray, you did that drivers side the hard way. Lift the floor mat/ carpet on drivers side, rubber grommet, pull out, you have access to the top nut on the shock. Deep 15 mm on swivel impact will take it right out. Had a ford full-size for 20 yrs How I know
If you're ever in a pinch for shock bushings for that style stud mount shock and nobody has a set, order a sway bar end link for a W-body Impala. Nothing special about those links in particular other than they're usually cheap and in-stock just about everywhere, and each one comes with 4 bushings and washers that work perfectly fine as shock bushings most of the time.
The bushings for the shocks were the bottom ones they are tapered, the top ones are like swaybar link ends, or a cookie. The customer might come back complaining about a knocking noise in a bit.
@@alainmarcoux4156 Yes, pretty obvious. Those bushings won't hold the stud centered in the hole. The van will be back with disintegrated bushings shortly.
Brought back memories of my van up in the air in your shop. The ole Ford E250 ext. van is doing just fine. And, BTW, she just turned over 344,000 orig. miles. (Other than filter change and added fluid that you did for me), untouched trans and 5.4, 2 valve eng. doing just fine. Thanks again for your good workmanship.
Because of your words of wisdom and tool use . I now own a set of pry bars, wobbly sockets, impact wrench and electric ratchet. Life is much easier for this home mechanic
Absolutely agree. The construction methods to bind the aggregate into the disc are different. And yes you can get a special discount that can do both but if you are not doing a lot of both grinding and cutting on the job it is hardly worth the costs of the combination disc.
Look I'm pretty sure Ray knows all this. He is doning something that he knows isn't recommended but like he said in the video he didn't have any 4 inch cutoff wheel, so he used what he had at hand. Now some people live and breath angle grinders and have a wall full of them loaded with all kinds of wheels. For other's it's a last resort tool, and they have one and swap out the wheel depending on what they are doing. It seems Ray belong in the later group. Also note that even with real cutoff wheels explosions do happen. That's the nature of these kinds of tools. I don't have any data on how common it is to be seriously wounded by shattering wheels, but I've blown up several, and have the brown pants to prove it. Even so I haven't got a serious wound by one of these yet. I have a feeling the serious wounds are more likely to be caused by cutting yourself on the wheel rather than by flying fragments from a wheel that splinters. Note that I AM NOT CLAIMING THAT IT'S SAFE. Just that I think Ray knows what he is doing, and that while a splintering cutoff or grinding wheel is scary as all F... it's usually less dangerous than for instance dropping the grinder, slipping, or just do something totally stupid like trying to grab something you are cutting as it starts to move. And that last part is disturbingly easy to to do.
Living in Canada, it always amazes me how easy it is to work on vehicles in Florida. Even a 30 year old van with no rust protection just comes apart with mostly wrenches.
@@dennislippert8875 LOL ME too. I just did this job on my 1995 ford bronco, same system as this except it has quad shocks in the front. 2 on each side. I had to take the fender well out to cut the top of the studs. There was literally no bolt head at all. And even when I got something to fit over it it would just spin, and the area below to put the wrench on to stop spinning was just completely round. This thing is in amazing shape... my studs didn't even look like a bolt anymore.
Yeah, same here. I live in Wisconsin. I got the old CB7. You know it's a great car because it's never money pit and it's old school (most of the time). And I just imagine I wonder how nice the car would look if it didn't have any rust. Then I go to the old CB7 forum. Where people are very happy with those old 90 to 93 honda accords. And they love to get those old cars. But they never would buy a car (I can't blame them) from our region because of the rust. It's very terrible. It's almost like if I want to buy another car. I feel like I should travel to the south and just buy one without any rust. I mean I have done jobs on the car and the rust makes every little thing a hassle from time to time. Even like sensor connectors on metal brackets that literally wont disconnect because they are rusted in. You have to actually cut a piece of plastic on the little holder. Being careful not to damage it. It just eats up so many hours. I just kind of want to buy another used car just in case so if something goes wrong I can just switch out cars while I'm working on another. But it's like technically I have the space for it but not really. And it's like where I live you have to be sneaky when you work on your car. Got some landlord renting out land and space. And I don't really understand at all how this person says you can't work on your cars. I mean not every mechanical is available 24/7 at your wind to just work on your car when something goes wrong. I don't know. It's kind of weird. There is more to the story. This person is trying to say that oil damages the driveway (I mean if your car is already leaking oil and you are trying to fix it and you have cardboard and oil pans to catch it (it's not a big deal, you are actually maintaining a car so it doesn't like more oil). It's one of those drive ways that are black topped. I mean you go to a parking lot at a private business. There is oil stains all over the place.
@@raidkoastas another Canadian...I feel your pain. I do like that our transportation department also uses a mix of salt and sand. That way you can get that pesky paint protection off the frame right away. Get that salt right in there, no point waiting for rust to form.
I worked on them for over 20 years. Ford front suspension design was always horrible. The twin-I-beam design is durable, but hard on tires. The steering geometry is beyond ridiculous. Built-in bump steer and engineered wander.
If I'm reading the code on those tires correct, they are dated back in 2012. They are long overdue for replacement. Had to replace the tires on my truck after I bought it because they were dated for 2011. Despite have good treads, that truck would get real sketchy when the roads got a little wet.
I believe Ray deserves a moment of praise for his excellent cameraman skills. Somehow he manages to provide unobstructed views of his progress along with a narrative explaining the procedures. (Also appreciated the ratchet strap demonstration).
Good shocks are critical on Twin I-Beam suspension. Without good shocks the suspension cycles up and down excessively and wears the tires out prematurely because of the scrubbing action due to the constant camber changes. It's all in the Geometry.
@@stevewhiting556 No. Just an explanation about the dynamics of Twin I-Beam Suspension for those that care to know and for current owners of Ford vehicles that have it. And BTW , Ford still uses this suspension system. I suggest you study up before putting out lame comments.
Ray, a recommendation for cut off wheels for a 4 1/2" angle grinder: Walter Zipone ZA-60-Zip 1/32" wheels p/n 11-t-642. Because they are so thin they cut very quickly and I found they last a long time. I also use the Metabo Original Slicer in 6" but they make a 4 1/2" also. They are slightly thicker at 0.040". I would certainly recommend that you do not drive that van on the highway with that tire - it is a may-pop(it may pop at any time)!
Two points, I love it when the mounting bolt goes up so high it locks the socket on, and when the cutting blade jumps and cuts the brake line. But that's difference between me and a professional...lol.
Ray you should write yourself up one of those exemption of liability waivers for people who refuse to fix tires like that. That's an accident waiting to happen, and a signed form is great evidence if someone wants to start pointing fingers.
An oscillating tool is one of the best inventions since the ratchet. Buy high quality blades and you’ll use it all the time. They’re loud as hell, but they’re lifesavers.
In case the owner asks about the tires, you can let them know that in addition to the large chunk missing from the sidewall, they are also 11 years old according to the DOT stamp. The last four digits of that stamp (in the circled part) indicate the week (first part of June) and year (2012) of manufacture. In this case it is the 26th week of 2012. Shown on the tire as 2612.
Lets not forget that the huge chunk missing from that tire is what threw the tire out of balance causing the shock to get overworked and most likely stripped the nut straight out the top of the bolt.... And a rebalance, even though it might work, is still keeping a dangerous tire on the vehicle, and not a smart thing to do....
I know the frustration of hardware, even on big equipment, you have to order part plus all necessary hardware and bushings and hope that they all come. It is frustrating. Good job, loved seeing Wife Unit in back ground. Take care and God bless
Sometimes you use what you have. I appreciate mechanic's because cars and trucks are not easy to repair. They stress and strain body and mind trying to get things to work safely on your vehicles.
I did that same job on my 2003 e350.....I had more room on the top of the shocks but had the bottom shock mount snap off the radius arm.....even with a liberal amount of PB blaster. Was a one step forward and three steps sort of a day.
This broke shock and tire thing reminds me of a neighbor who never serviced his vehicles in accordance to the owner manual. Only when something broke would he get it fixed. Inevitably, he came knocking on my door for tools and help...Inevitably, I told him I do not work on automobiles, I do not have tools, therefore I cannot nor will I offer any assistance...So he said "well what the hell am I supposed to do"...I said "call 911" 🤣
Hello Ray. The condition of those shocks and especially that tire makes me wonder how wonderful a ride that van had 🤔. The squeaking bushings on those shocks remind me of dad’s old Ford Maverick. You could here his car coming a half mile away. 😅😂
I do recall my fathers ford XB falcon in about 1975 had very squeaky shocks, not sure what era your dads car was from? Highly likely similar time and components even though I’m from Australia 👍
I have learned, though thankfully not destructively, that tires have a limited lifespan, even if never mounted on rims. And their lifespan can be shortened by UV exposure. So yeah, it's not just how much tread is left, it is how much dry rot your sidewalls get. And having this information, also be sure to check your spare(s)!
In Florida, at least if I remember correctly, Ray can have his customer sign a waiver that absolves him of any liability in the event that the tire fails. I lived down there for a while and the cars still look to be in great shape, but are death traps due to dry rotting components. We had a Suburban that came from Georgia and the spare was put on due to a flat. It went approximately 25 miles and basically exploded from dry rot. The tire had never been used. I think safety inspection is a good thing. Condemning a 20 year old car because it needs $2500 in emissions parts is a bit much.
@@stevewhiting556 Pretty much goes for anywhere. They’ll sign saying this vehicle is not road worthy until such and such is repaired or replaced. Good way to cya
I messed up a drive axle seal while installing the CV axle for my PT. Went to fill the transaxle and it was pouring out one of the two seals. I have new ones coming, no one has any locally. I want to remove everything, since the seal issue is the last thing remaining to get the PT front end replacement project back up and running. But the heat index is over 100 and so I will instead sit here and watch you work.
Check the 4 digit date code on your tires or ones you plan on buying. They are on the sidewall. The first two numbers are the week it was made and the last two are the year it was made. So for example 1021 means it was made the 10th month (October) of 2021. Tires get dry rotted over time so avoid buying tires that are more than 5 years old.
@@desotosky1372 Really no legit tire seller is selling tires more than a few months old...places like Tire rack etc sell millions, they ain't sitting around that long, and it's most likely another CRIME to actually sell one that old, to unsuspecting consumers
@@desotosky1372I was talking about used tires. Some people leave their tires to rot in the elements and think they're ok to sell cuz the tread looks good.
That’s why I cut through the bushing on mine. Think. Think. You cut through the rubber it just falls out. Did that couple of times sway links shocks etc. oh and hf cut wheels dirt cheap 8 bucks warrior works fine
Metal blade in the Sawzall cut through the lower bushing on the top mount works rvery time. Here in Michigan i dont even try most times. Just go straight for the saw.
29:43 Get a little bit of torque wrench action?! The van will go down the road have a blow out, roll over and over, land in a ditch and when they get it out the only thing good will be the wheel nuts torqued to spec! 😂 Dave Birmingham England
I saw that chunk of rubber missing from the tire and think some Shoe Goo might make a nice cosmetic patch-that will go flying entertainingly when the tire blows out. Take that workers on strike. It is almost July 4th. If you must fire guns in celebration, please use rubber bullets.
I lost my wrench My bushings squeak The shock done broke My springs got rust My hardware's soft... I got dem service bay blues Ooooo baby! These are the makings of a hit record, Ray!
The ratchet strap is much better as it only affects the suspension, a jack would affect the whole van and, if not careful, could cause the van to come off the rack.
@@johncooper4637We use floor jacks, if working on ground level, and transmission jacks, when on a lift, anytime we change shocks. You place it right under the hub, that he attached strap to, and lift it up the same way. If you are just lifting the suspension up you are not risking raising the entire vehicle unless you lift it up "A LOT" More than necessary. I like the strap idea because it eliminates working around another jack.
Truck drivers know all about the uses of ratchet straps - I once used two ratchets straps to pull an empty tractor trailer rig out of a ditch on a snowy mountain in Italy. Took me hours but it worked, although my arms and shoulders ached for days afterwards. Cell phone coverage was non existent and I didn’t speak Italian anyway. You can use a ratchet strap to pull an agricultural tractor engine and transmission back together after you’ve replaced the clutch too. Best of all you can hook the ends on either side of a horse trailer and "ratchet" and uncooperative horse inside - you do need a couple of good strong guys to hold the horse in position while you readjust the ratchet - but it does work! 😂😂🍷😂
You are a great mechanic and a little better than a bitter mechanic lol. I'm a 74 year old mechanic and I worked on cars and trucks in the 60s and didn't have the equipment that you have nowadays 😢 God bless you and your beautiful wife and family 🙏
every shop should have an oxyacetylene torch set. they are cheap(ish) and are great for stuck parts, cutting steel, and removing broken bolts. Just keep the cutting head on all the time. we call it a hot wrench for a reason... 😂
And the steering wheel nut holds the entire front suspension in the vehicle. Remember the sales jingle from that era? Ford had a better idea, but they didn't use it.
Some time ago I worked as a go for in a heavy vehicle repair shop and we had a motor home come in it was a E450 V10 and everything that we had to replace had to be imported from the USA including the rear drums what a pain!!
Wow I found a chunk of sidewall in our dump trailer that looks like the missing part of that tire. How it got into the trailer is still a mystery as the truck and trailer tires do not have any missing parts.
One of the first times that I learned wrenching on my vehicles when I was 16, I snapped off the lower stud of the shock mount on the front passenger side using a breaker bar. Whoopsie 😂
I never understood why they beat the crap out of those vans and never care for them! It's your money maker... Give your ride love and care it needs to serve you long time
Morning Raymond, good job to help out some folks that can't or won't go to the banks to borrow ungodly amounts of money to drive a fancy work vehicle. Being keen on watching my surroundings while on the road,(not staring at the phone) this type of vehicle I would stay away from. If it looks not very well serviced, it probably isn't. Our freedoms in this country do not guarantee safety, that is incumbent on each of us to assess and act as we see necessary, no amount of regulations will keep stupidity out of the equation. I love what freedoms we still have here in the USA. And have a great day Ray !!!
In the new shop space, I would consider moving the large hoist there and installing the other one in the old spot. This would make it easier to pull in the larger vehicles by not having to take the Slauson Cutoff. Small cars like the PT Cruisers and their like will fit there better. I don't want a crunch to happen, but I see one in the future.
WOW?? 1) the "squeaky" bushings upon tightening are supposed to have silicone around them--SOP 2) those so-called upper replacement bushings you got from Dorman are for the lower bolt; the upper ones are supposed to have a protrusion for the correct size of the hole they go through(look at the 2nd upper one you cut off and you will notice that) Those upper ones will now have the bolt banging around in that opening and cause wallowing of that hole if not replace immediately
right front is 2012 week 24 so would be replace if you went to tyre shop. Not to mention side wall missing. front left looks a bit newer couldn't see date code. nice work with the daily grind. I would use ultra thin cutting wheel with you grinder but understand that your time is precious and plan b has to work. great work as always.
The top shock is supposed to be installed first. That way both the upper and lower bushings are collapsed in unison, and therefore, when finished, the same. This also centers the bushing and shock correctly. The bottom is put on last because there is nothing to collapse, just torque to required spec.
Here in the rust belt you get the hardware with the motocrap stuff packaged in from any 3rd party retailer simply because your PB blaster more often than I'd like to admit is simply just not enough for these older work vehicles.
Ray, you did that drivers side the hard way. Lift the floor mat/ carpet on drivers side, rubber grommet, pull out, you have access to the top nut on the shock. Deep 15 mm on swivel impact will take it right out. Had a ford full-size for 20 yrs How I know
If you're ever in a pinch for shock bushings for that style stud mount shock and nobody has a set, order a sway bar end link for a W-body Impala. Nothing special about those links in particular other than they're usually cheap and in-stock just about everywhere, and each one comes with 4 bushings and washers that work perfectly fine as shock bushings most of the time.
this....this is an excellent tidbit to have in ones toolbox mind to makee-makee all fixiee-fixiee
this is the kind of stuff i joined this channel for! Thank you for that tip!
The bushings for the shocks were the bottom ones they are tapered, the top ones are like swaybar link ends, or a cookie. The customer might come back complaining about a knocking noise in a bit.
Something i suspected. 🤔
@@alainmarcoux4156 Yes, pretty obvious. Those bushings won't hold the stud centered in the hole. The van will be back with disintegrated bushings shortly.
Brought back memories of my van up in the air in your shop. The ole Ford E250 ext. van is doing just fine. And, BTW, she just turned over 344,000 orig. miles. (Other than filter change and added fluid that you did for me), untouched trans and 5.4, 2 valve eng. doing just fine. Thanks again for your good workmanship.
The 2 valve 5.4 wasn't full of power but was a way better choice in reliability compared to the 3 valve
Because of your words of wisdom and tool use . I now own a set of pry bars, wobbly sockets, impact wrench and electric ratchet. Life is much easier for this home mechanic
I've now got everything you listed except the wobbly sockets, and am strongly considering those as well. I wish I had done so years ago.
I got the prybars as well! So nice.
You cutting the shock off brought back memories. My Dad would use a cutting torch to remove old shocks.
I wanted to yell "TORCH"... But... Alas... Ray doesn't have one.
Sometimes, the blue-tip wrench is the only tool that will work.
Blue Flame socket set required for rusty shock replacement
RAY, dont use a grinding disk as a cut-off wheel. It can come apart and throw large chunks at high speed toward soft body parts.
Sait abrasives makes dual purpose disc ; cut & grind called “pipeliner”
Absolutely agree. The construction methods to bind the aggregate into the disc are different. And yes you can get a special discount that can do both but if you are not doing a lot of both grinding and cutting on the job it is hardly worth the costs of the combination disc.
Look I'm pretty sure Ray knows all this. He is doning something that he knows isn't recommended but like he said in the video he didn't have any 4 inch cutoff wheel, so he used what he had at hand.
Now some people live and breath angle grinders and have a wall full of them loaded with all kinds of wheels. For other's it's a last resort tool, and they have one and swap out the wheel depending on what they are doing. It seems Ray belong in the later group.
Also note that even with real cutoff wheels explosions do happen. That's the nature of these kinds of tools. I don't have any data on how common it is to be seriously wounded by shattering wheels, but I've blown up several, and have the brown pants to prove it. Even so I haven't got a serious wound by one of these yet. I have a feeling the serious wounds are more likely to be caused by cutting yourself on the wheel rather than by flying fragments from a wheel that splinters.
Note that I AM NOT CLAIMING THAT IT'S SAFE. Just that I think Ray knows what he is doing, and that while a splintering cutoff or grinding wheel is scary as all F... it's usually less dangerous than for instance dropping the grinder, slipping, or just do something totally stupid like trying to grab something you are cutting as it starts to move. And that last part is disturbingly easy to to do.
Make sure it’s recorded!
You've been watching too much tiktok
Even without the big chunk out of the sidewall, I'd say that tyre is well past its' use-by date
Illegal to drive in the UK.
@@AlexanderWright1 illegal anywhere with regular inspections.
Yeah, looks like 2512 Tyre (Week 25 Year 2012), so 11 years old
Should be condemned. No regulations in Ron's Flo-Rida.
Yeah that one tire was well and truly done. The rubber had got to an age where it is no longer rubbery instead it is now hard and crumbly.
Living in Canada, it always amazes me how easy it is to work on vehicles in Florida. Even a 30 year old van with no rust protection just comes apart with mostly wrenches.
He cut off the shock because the stud was so rusty ... then he pulled it out, and I was expecting it to be really rusty. It wasn't!
@@dennislippert8875 LOL ME too. I just did this job on my 1995 ford bronco, same system as this except it has quad shocks in the front. 2 on each side. I had to take the fender well out to cut the top of the studs. There was literally no bolt head at all. And even when I got something to fit over it it would just spin, and the area below to put the wrench on to stop spinning was just completely round. This thing is in amazing shape... my studs didn't even look like a bolt anymore.
Yeah, same here. I live in Wisconsin. I got the old CB7. You know it's a great car because it's never money pit and it's old school (most of the time). And I just imagine I wonder how nice the car would look if it didn't have any rust. Then I go to the old CB7 forum. Where people are very happy with those old 90 to 93 honda accords. And they love to get those old cars. But they never would buy a car (I can't blame them) from our region because of the rust. It's very terrible. It's almost like if I want to buy another car. I feel like I should travel to the south and just buy one without any rust. I mean I have done jobs on the car and the rust makes every little thing a hassle from time to time. Even like sensor connectors on metal brackets that literally wont disconnect because they are rusted in. You have to actually cut a piece of plastic on the little holder. Being careful not to damage it. It just eats up so many hours.
I just kind of want to buy another used car just in case so if something goes wrong I can just switch out cars while I'm working on another. But it's like technically I have the space for it but not really. And it's like where I live you have to be sneaky when you work on your car. Got some landlord renting out land and space. And I don't really understand at all how this person says you can't work on your cars. I mean not every mechanical is available 24/7 at your wind to just work on your car when something goes wrong. I don't know. It's kind of weird. There is more to the story. This person is trying to say that oil damages the driveway (I mean if your car is already leaking oil and you are trying to fix it and you have cardboard and oil pans to catch it (it's not a big deal, you are actually maintaining a car so it doesn't like more oil). It's one of those drive ways that are black topped. I mean you go to a parking lot at a private business. There is oil stains all over the place.
As a Swede, I feel the same.
Mild winters are hell... Why? Because salt... So god damn much salt.
@@raidkoastas another Canadian...I feel your pain. I do like that our transportation department also uses a mix of salt and sand. That way you can get that pesky paint protection off the frame right away. Get that salt right in there, no point waiting for rust to form.
That whole front end setup looks like one of FORD'S infamous "better ideas".
I worked on them for over 20 years. Ford front suspension design was always horrible. The twin-I-beam design is durable, but hard on tires. The steering geometry is beyond ridiculous. Built-in bump steer and engineered wander.
If I'm reading the code on those tires correct, they are dated back in 2012. They are long overdue for replacement. Had to replace the tires on my truck after I bought it because they were dated for 2011. Despite have good treads, that truck would get real sketchy when the roads got a little wet.
or hot, becomes Titan on the toad.
Them bushings are lower shock mount bushings Your installing on the Bayonetta Side of the shock @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I believe Ray deserves a moment of praise for his excellent cameraman skills. Somehow he manages to provide unobstructed views of his progress along with a narrative explaining the procedures. (Also appreciated the ratchet strap demonstration).
Good shocks are critical on Twin I-Beam suspension. Without good shocks the suspension cycles up and down excessively and wears the tires out prematurely because of the scrubbing action due to the constant camber changes. It's all in the Geometry.
You think this customer is worried about wearing out his tires?
@@stevewhiting556 No.
Just an explanation about the dynamics of Twin I-Beam Suspension for those that care to know and for current owners of Ford vehicles that have it. And BTW , Ford still uses this suspension system. I suggest you study up before putting out lame comments.
I had a mix of SAE and metric on a 79 Cadillac and my 84 Firebird. Usually painted blue.
Good to see troy being kept busy keep up the good work
Atleast this job wasn't to bad to get done Little prying and grinding and she got some new shocks @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray, a recommendation for cut off wheels for a 4 1/2" angle grinder: Walter Zipone ZA-60-Zip 1/32" wheels p/n 11-t-642. Because they are so thin they cut very quickly and I found they last a long time. I also use the Metabo Original Slicer in 6" but they make a 4 1/2" also. They are slightly thicker at 0.040".
I would certainly recommend that you do not drive that van on the highway with that tire - it is a may-pop(it may pop at any time)!
13:05 The sounds of a Ray Clock.
Have a great day Ray good video as always @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Two points, I love it when the mounting bolt goes up so high it locks the socket on, and when the cutting blade jumps and cuts the brake line.
But that's difference between me and a professional...lol.
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
Ray you should write yourself up one of those exemption of liability waivers for people who refuse to fix tires like that. That's an accident waiting to happen, and a signed form is great evidence if someone wants to start pointing fingers.
I totally agree with this! "I notified the customer of the condition of the tire, but they refused to fix the issue."
Try an M18 Fuel oscillating tool with carbide teeth for cutting bolts with no clearance. Worked great on my trailer! Loud Noises! Gravity!
An oscillating tool is one of the best inventions since the ratchet. Buy high quality blades and you’ll use it all the time. They’re loud as hell, but they’re lifesavers.
Didn’t look like Troy’s legs pushing mop bucket 😎
13:11 wait 4 it ! PreMature Droppage!!!; )😂😅
In case the owner asks about the tires, you can let them know that in addition to the large chunk missing from the sidewall, they are also 11 years old according to the DOT stamp. The last four digits of that stamp (in the circled part) indicate the week (first part of June) and year (2012) of manufacture. In this case it is the 26th week of 2012. Shown on the tire as 2612.
Lets not forget that the huge chunk missing from that tire is what threw the tire out of balance causing the shock to get overworked and most likely stripped the nut straight out the top of the bolt....
And a rebalance, even though it might work, is still keeping a dangerous tire on the vehicle, and not a smart thing to do....
Another "Shocking" RainmanRay UA-cam sensation
shock to me when he remount that death trap tire so the van can kill.
thankyou Ray,another straight forward repair completed,,,👍👍
Good morning! That van has been well used!
That double wrench trick was absolutely brilliant 🎉
I know the frustration of hardware, even on big equipment, you have to order part plus all necessary hardware and bushings and hope that they all come. It is frustrating. Good job, loved seeing Wife Unit in back ground. Take care and God bless
So pick yourself up an air chisel for those hard to get to removals.
Allways a good thing to have Oxy/Acetline in hand
Sometimes you use what you have. I appreciate mechanic's because cars and trucks are not easy to repair. They stress and strain body and mind trying to get things to work safely on your vehicles.
As our friend, Eric O would say, "Fire up the torch"
Diz AAAMM!!! I thought the flex head was so that it fit in the tool box more easily !!!!
I did that same job on my 2003 e350.....I had more room on the top of the shocks but had the bottom shock mount snap off the radius arm.....even with a liberal amount of PB blaster. Was a one step forward and three steps sort of a day.
This broke shock and tire thing reminds me of a neighbor who never serviced his vehicles in accordance to the owner manual. Only when something broke would he get it fixed. Inevitably, he came knocking on my door for tools and help...Inevitably, I told him I do not work on automobiles, I do not have tools, therefore I cannot nor will I offer any assistance...So he said "well what the hell am I supposed to do"...I said "call 911" 🤣
a downside of constant use of power tools is getting noodle arm when you have to use an old fashioned wrench...
Troy has bigger arms.
Hello Ray. The condition of those shocks and especially that tire makes me wonder how wonderful a ride that van had 🤔. The squeaking bushings on those shocks remind me of dad’s old Ford Maverick. You could here his car coming a half mile away. 😅😂
It's a heavy ford. Likely unnoticed.
I do recall my fathers ford XB falcon in about 1975 had very squeaky shocks, not sure what era your dads car was from?
Highly likely similar time and components even though I’m from Australia 👍
1973 Ford Maverick with a 302.
I have learned, though thankfully not destructively, that tires have a limited lifespan, even if never mounted on rims.
And their lifespan can be shortened by UV exposure.
So yeah, it's not just how much tread is left, it is how much dry rot your sidewalls get.
And having this information, also be sure to check your spare(s)!
Love the safety first attitude you employ in your shop, Ray!
Your videos are the best
What safety, this guy is a walking accident in the making.
You must be referring to the owner of the vehicle I hope.
@@thk7513but did anyone die?
@@One-Crazy-Cat He should have supported the suspension. And no, nobody die and he was luck he was not injured.
Thank god your'e still alive Ray. I love your channel.
What an absolute deathtrap on the works again... Good idea to cut the old one straight away and not fight the stud. Great work again Ray!
death factory, lawyers heaven.
In Florida, at least if I remember correctly, Ray can have his customer sign a waiver that absolves him of any liability in the event that the tire fails. I lived down there for a while and the cars still look to be in great shape, but are death traps due to dry rotting components. We had a Suburban that came from Georgia and the spare was put on due to a flat. It went approximately 25 miles and basically exploded from dry rot. The tire had never been used. I think safety inspection is a good thing. Condemning a 20 year old car because it needs $2500 in emissions parts is a bit much.
@@stevewhiting556 Pretty much goes for anywhere. They’ll sign saying this vehicle is not road worthy until such and such is repaired or replaced. Good way to cya
Morning Ray, hope you had a good weekend, and soon to be holiday.❤ Happy Early Fourth!
I messed up a drive axle seal while installing the CV axle for my PT. Went to fill the transaxle and it was pouring out one of the two seals.
I have new ones coming, no one has any locally.
I want to remove everything, since the seal issue is the last thing remaining to get the PT front end replacement project back up and running.
But the heat index is over 100 and so I will instead sit here and watch you work.
WOW DUDE!! on the shock removal. Were you just still asleep? I can just imagine all the "Dude just..........." on the other end. Ha!
One of the first things I learned from Ray is, “More pry bar!”
I've got a fever, and the only prescription is MORE PRY BAR!
Really? Mine was "more lumens"
Also, More Speed !!
It’s amazing how you brought that can back to life compared to how it came in for the first time.👍Great work.
Check the 4 digit date code on your tires or ones you plan on buying. They are on the sidewall. The first two numbers are the week it was made and the last two are the year it was made. So for example 1021 means it was made the 10th month (October) of 2021. Tires get dry rotted over time so avoid buying tires that are more than 5 years old.
I'd be pissed if a new tire was already 5 years old. I replace my trailer tires between 7 and 10.
@@desotosky1372 Really no legit tire seller is selling tires more than a few months old...places like Tire rack etc sell millions, they ain't sitting around that long, and it's most likely another CRIME to actually sell one that old, to unsuspecting consumers
@@desotosky1372I was talking about used tires. Some people leave their tires to rot in the elements and think they're ok to sell cuz the tread looks good.
That’s why I cut through the bushing on mine. Think. Think. You cut through the rubber it just falls out. Did that couple of times sway links shocks etc. oh and hf cut wheels dirt cheap 8 bucks warrior works fine
well done again Ray these things do come to try us ,thanks for the video
It 5:11 am here you post early.
BEEP< BEEP. Horn for safety. Great video Ray. Those tires scare me.
Metal blade in the Sawzall cut through the lower bushing on the top mount works rvery time. Here in Michigan i dont even try most times. Just go straight for the saw.
Good morning Mr Ray hope y'all have a great day
29:43 Get a little bit of torque wrench action?! The van will go down the road have a blow out, roll over and over, land in a ditch and when they get it out the only thing good will be the wheel nuts torqued to spec! 😂 Dave Birmingham England
so tight they might be seared off and he has to defend involuntary manslaughter charges,
I saw that chunk of rubber missing from the tire and think some Shoe Goo might make a nice cosmetic patch-that will go flying entertainingly when the tire blows out.
Take that workers on strike.
It is almost July 4th. If you must fire guns in celebration, please use rubber bullets.
Thats same year as my f250 great old trucks those like never die
I lost my wrench
My bushings squeak
The shock done broke
My springs got rust
My hardware's soft...
I got dem service bay blues
Ooooo baby!
These are the makings of a hit record, Ray!
for a deceased man you sure do make an entertaining video.
Great tip on the rachet strap. I would've ended up using a floor jack.
The ratchet strap is much better as it only affects the suspension, a jack would affect the whole van and, if not careful, could cause the van to come off the rack.
@@johncooper4637We use floor jacks, if working on ground level, and transmission jacks, when on a lift, anytime we change shocks. You place it right under the hub, that he attached strap to, and lift it up the same way. If you are just lifting the suspension up you are not risking raising the entire vehicle unless you lift it up "A LOT" More than necessary. I like the strap idea because it eliminates working around another jack.
Truck drivers know all about the uses of ratchet straps - I once used two ratchets straps to pull an empty tractor trailer rig out of a ditch on a snowy mountain in Italy. Took me hours but it worked, although my arms and shoulders ached for days afterwards. Cell phone coverage was non existent and I didn’t speak Italian anyway. You can use a ratchet strap to pull an agricultural tractor engine and transmission back together after you’ve replaced the clutch too. Best of all you can hook the ends on either side of a horse trailer and "ratchet" and uncooperative horse inside - you do need a couple of good strong guys to hold the horse in position while you readjust the ratchet - but it does work! 😂😂🍷😂
You are a great mechanic and a little better than a bitter mechanic lol. I'm a 74 year old mechanic and I worked on cars and trucks in the 60s and didn't have the equipment that you have nowadays 😢 God bless you and your beautiful wife and family 🙏
every shop should have an oxyacetylene torch set. they are cheap(ish) and are great for stuck parts, cutting steel, and removing broken bolts. Just keep the cutting head on all the time. we call it a hot wrench for a reason... 😂
Just like Eric O
Gas axe here in west Michigan. You just put up with the smell of burning bushings.
And the steering wheel nut holds the entire front suspension in the vehicle. Remember the sales jingle from that era? Ford had a better idea, but they didn't use it.
Ray, my son got me that Mountain ratcheting wrench set for Father's Day. I love them! Great set of wrenches!!!
The tyre looked old and yet it looks like it had plenty of tread. Abundant amounts of tread.
The looked like mine when I hit a piece of rebar on the road.Had to buy 4 tires because of A.W.D & dry rot.Have a great day
28:26 if you look carefully you can see the date stamp on that tire...2612, so July of 2012 😮
Greetings: So much 4 charging a 1 hour job. I hope U added the Ford and rusty charges. Thx 4 the share.
Happy independence Day Eve Ray and All!! 🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇
I've used a grinding wheel as a cut off. Don't worry, you are not alone.
Some time ago I worked as a go for in a heavy vehicle repair shop and we had a motor home come in it was a E450 V10 and everything that we had to replace had to be imported from the USA including the rear drums what a pain!!
Good morning👋🏻 Raymond from Chicago😁, let this day be prosperous🤑 and bountiful♥️ for you and your family👍 BROTHER! 🧰🫡
Wow I found a chunk of sidewall in our dump trailer that looks like the missing part of that tire. How it got into the trailer is still a mystery as the truck and trailer tires do not have any missing parts.
Owned two of those. One Diesel one V-10. BOTH were a massive pain in the ass to work on. Do not miss those one bit LOL
One of the first times that I learned wrenching on my vehicles when I was 16, I snapped off the lower stud of the shock mount on the front passenger side using a breaker bar. Whoopsie 😂
I never understood why they beat the crap out of those vans and never care for them! It's your money maker... Give your ride love and care it needs to serve you long time
8:04 “Have no fear Rainman is here” 😎
Good job 👍🏻
Morning Raymond, good job to help out some folks that can't or won't go to the banks to borrow ungodly amounts of money to drive a fancy work vehicle. Being keen on watching my surroundings while on the road,(not staring at the phone) this type of vehicle I would stay away from. If it looks not very well serviced, it probably isn't. Our freedoms in this country do not guarantee safety, that is incumbent on each of us to assess and act as we see necessary, no amount of regulations will keep stupidity out of the equation. I love what freedoms we still have here in the USA. And have a great day Ray !!!
Ford started metric fasteners in 1985. my 1986 F350 has a mix, like my 1978 Oldsmobile Delta 88.
Always start my day with Ray.
Sorry that people have to give you a difficult time with what you do. I like that you do it to yourself. Have a great day!
In the new shop space, I would consider moving the large hoist there and installing the other one in the old spot. This would make it easier to pull in the larger vehicles by not having to take the Slauson Cutoff. Small cars like the PT Cruisers and their like will fit there better. I don't want a crunch to happen, but I see one in the future.
I use a jack stand under the front axle and no need for the ratchet straps.
As long Ford and Jeep are rolling on the road, slowly, slowly, straight to repair shop, Ray has steady source of income.
By the way. That tire with hole will be safe if you reinstall hole inside. Nobody will see it and this makes it safe.
WOW??
1) the "squeaky" bushings upon tightening are supposed to have silicone around them--SOP
2) those so-called upper replacement bushings you got from Dorman are for the lower bolt; the upper ones are supposed to have a protrusion for the correct size of the hole they go through(look at the 2nd upper one you cut off and you will notice that)
Those upper ones will now have the bolt banging around in that opening and cause wallowing of that hole if not replace immediately
I love it when you say why ! It’s funny.
The grinding off of that shock made me realize my day wasn't half bad after all.
I always use a post jack under the spring to keep it in its place
27:33 Yes! Put her on the Internet! She is beautiful with her crown 😍
That tire with the chunk out of it was made in the 26th week of 2012. 11 years in the Florida sun has cooked that bad boy!
Wrong bushings, wrong washers. Those were for the lower mount.
My great grandmother replaced the front shocks on her E350 while sipping tea in her sundress 😎 but she’s a big fan and said you did a better job.
Headlights could need some polishing too. 😞
right front is 2012 week 24 so would be replace if you went to tyre shop. Not to mention side wall missing. front left looks a bit newer couldn't see date code. nice work with the daily grind. I would use ultra thin cutting wheel with you grinder but understand that your time is precious and plan b has to work. great work as always.
The top shock is supposed to be installed first. That way both the upper and lower bushings are collapsed in unison, and therefore, when finished, the same. This also centers the bushing and shock correctly. The bottom is put on last because there is nothing to collapse, just torque to required spec.
I did all 4 shocks on my 98 e250 that way
Ray does not believe in torque wrenches.
That tire should not be on the road
Well, that was "SHOCKING!"
Dad joke of that day 🤣🤣
Here in the rust belt you get the hardware with the motocrap stuff packaged in from any 3rd party retailer simply because your PB blaster more often than I'd like to admit is simply just not enough for these older work vehicles.
Here they would move the shot tire to the back, to have two best tires in the front with the beat tire to be front left.
The burned out tow truck can still be seen on Google Earth parked outside your shop on the road before it went on fire . I enjoy watching your videos.