Glad to hear it Chris. Yes I think they went out of stock on Amazon quite soon after this vid. But the French co run a good efficient service a you say. It's a great little valve. Hope the install goes well
Charlie, to aid emptying, add a bin bag to the empty drum, drape over the edge, then fit the lid as usual, you'll be able to just pull the whole load out without pouring it out and getting mdf dust everywhere 👌🏻
@@hb4519 No, whilst there is negative (suction) pressure inside the bag, it's can't go anywhere because there's no way for air to get between the bag & and the bin. Stumpynubs shows it here ua-cam.com/video/oosMqnORR6k/v-deo.html
Would concur with this idea, anything that stops the spread of the dust is a great big plus. I think that time will show us just how dangerous this type of dust will be, it does contain known carcinogenic matterial.
Excellent idea to relieve the vacuum by using a relief valve! The only issue I have with it is your placement of the valve. Yes, it is the barrel that is collapsing, but it does so due to the vacuum being created in the cyclone due to the inlet to the cyclone being too obstructed. By placing a entrypoint for air into the barrel itself you allow a backflow of air from barrel up through cyclone and out into your filters. Instead, place the valve so it allows fresh air into the stream coming to the inlet side of the cyclone. This adds extra fresh air to avoid too high vacuum and the fresh air helps keep separation of dust through the cyclone as high as possible.
Having just bought my first wet/dry vac, I'm now excited to have a go at making one of these cyclone barrels! Also, I've lost count of the number of videos of yours that have been invaluable to me over the last few months since our buying our first property (though the DIY circular saw guide video and the ones about the relative strength of various plasterboard fixings spring to mind as especially useful recent examples), so the least I can do is chuck you a wee tip to show my appreciation for your work with this channel. It really has helped clear up so much of the mystery and intimidating sense of "unknown unknowns" that held me back from attempting DIY in the past, and has made it feel so much more accessible and (pun not intended) doable! Oh yeah, and just remembered the wheel gadget for carrying sheet wood... GENIUS. (Which has also reminded me about the portable workbench which I can't wait to attempt to make one day!)
Mate I'm blown away by that pledge. Thanks so much. Sorry only just seen your message - working on a pig of a video at the moment with a sponsorship (which is always tricky) so I'm a bit behind. So humbled you're watching so many of my vids and massively grateful you got in touch. It can be quite exhausting editing and recording 24/7 and people like you are invaluable in keeping my mojo up. 👌👊
It's a brilliant idea that solved same problem happened so many time, even one old bucket was totally broken. After watch this video, I made a similar little system. Problem solved. Thanks for sharing this video. 👍🏻👍🏻
I just bought that valve and it is already attached to my suction system. The truth is that yes, it perfectly solves the problem of crushing, but it must be recognized that a little suction power is lost. No matter how much the valve is regulated, you never get it to stay completely closed until it starts to collapse, but it still sucks perfectly. An idea that I contribute: I, instead of installing it in the lid of the barrel, I have placed it in a "T" of PVC, in the middle of the inlet hose. In that piece of PVC in the shape of a "T", in one of the inlets, I have put a blind plug, and there, I connect the valve (on one side inlet hose; on the other outlet hose, and in the center, in the blind cover, the valve) In this way, I can easily replace the barrel with another, and the valve will always be installed in the circuit.
Charlie - congratulations - that is the correct engineering solution for the plastic barrel and much better than incorporating internal stiffeners. In fact that is also the correct solution for the metal drum too, a more powerful vacuum will collapse it. I may well spring for the Big Dug and the valve - thanks for the heads up. 😀👍
Thanks Norman and good to hear from you - hope all's well. Yes quite a few of you have warned about the metal drum collapsing. I probably will install a valve on that one too. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Is it though? The air that enters through the valve travels through the reject port of the dust separator and picks up all the debree along the way straight into the vacuum. It completely defeats the purpose of having a cyclone in the first place. I think that the last option of getting a sturdier drum is the way to go.
Its nice to know there are other people out there that like to keep things the same because the connections/ adapters are a pain to get right. Another thing some dust collectors are made out of anti static properties to prevent nasty discharges and workshop bombs.
My wooden brace attempt also failed so used some left over woven roven and fibreglass and coated the inside of the drum with it. Perks of a boat project lol. Worked a treat. Thanks for the idea in the first place though. Never looked back👍👍
Thanks a lot for this content. Using the metal barrel without valve (was out of stock) it imploded with 1800W shopvac after a couple of uses. I tried again with the plastic barrel with the valve and unfortunately it did compress slightly, even with an 800W at minimum setting. I did not like the idea of the wooden ring so I used a 1 mm thick 14 cm by 1 m grid, placed in the barrel as central reinforcement attached with hot glue and and cable-ties to join the ends. So far plastic barrel + 1800W + valve + reinforcement works fine.
I had a plastic drum identical to the one in the video, it kept imploding so I inserted a brace midway, guess what, yes it imploded elsewhere. My solution I built my own out of laminate boards that I had lying around. Sealed all internal seams with silicone, fitted a rubber seal on the lid with 4 spring toggle clamps off eBay. Bingo works a treat.
Funnily enough Brian I was wondering if that happened. A single brace doesn't seem enough to me. Yes that's a great option. I was only put off doing that by the process of emptying it but it sounds like you've sorted that with the spring toggles 👏🏻👍🏻
Wow, sold! The Titan bags are horrendous. Split open every time. Will probably get the PRV kit as well though because it will reduce strain on the vacuum.
Karl, I agree. I had abandoned the Titan soon after I bought it as not only what you say but they didn't even fit over the inlet nozzle. The cyclone has given it a new lease of life though and made me realise that it's only really designed as a static shop vac. In that capacity it's actually rather good 👍🏻
Maybe stupid question but how do you empty the barrel? I have a 200lister barrel and have to shovel out when full and sometimes every 2nd or 3rd day is annoying
Thanks buddy. That sounds exciting. You might as a precaution install a pressure relief valve on the metal drum too as a lot of people are saying even these can collapse.👍🏻
I followed your original cyclone idea at the time and have used it since. Great thanks for that. The plastic barrel walls started sucking inwards in use today so I'm going to try a different option to your suggestions here. I don't fancy a pressure relief valve because it costs electricity to create the suction so the valve throws some of that effort away to stop the barrel collapsing. I looked at the metal drum to replace the plastic one but that's another £60 or so and a waste of the plastic barrel. I've ordered an 11 litre metal container from Oipps which will act as an insert to the plastic barrel. It'll come slightly above halfway and, at 24cm diameter, will set a limit to the wall movement. It would become a nuisance when emptying the barrel if I didn't follow Matthew Holland's great advice and use a bin bag as an internal collector. Talking of great advice, thanks for all your helpful videos.
You're welcome Steve. Thanks for comment. One point though - metal drums can collapse too so strengthening the drum or using the valve are definitely the way to go. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte True, entropy always wins but a metal inner cylinder (in the shape of a bucket) will delay the inevitable for at least a couple of years. Fingers crossed. Incidentally, I posted a comment on wasps nests saying that I was reluctant to use poison. That was before getting stung on the face and right foot when I was preparing for the solar panel guys to come in and do their stuff. The solar panel guys won't run that risk, 'nuff said. 🙂
I made a very simple dust extractor using a plastic bucket with a lid that I got for free when purchasing a big bag of dog food. On my very first use, the bucket collapsed. I just added a plywood ring inside. Never had any problem since.
Cut the top rings off of another bucket and drop your cyclone bucket into the 2/3 height cut bucket. It looks like it's still one bucket, but the added outside bucket keeps the inner bucket round. Found on another video on YT
I've been watching similar videos today, and one shows the metal bin collapsing as well. The best thing to do is buy whichever suits you best, but install the valve in all drums.
Great solution Charlie - I built my cyclone with a flimsy fermentation bucket and guess what it failed pretty quickly - prior to that astonishingly efficient and well worthwhile so I think I will be adding the pressure relief valve you have used.
To prevent my plastic bucket from collapsing I winded a bit of aluminum or copper heat pipe in a coil and let it expand in the center of the bucket. Sorted.
My metal drum imploded. Got plastic with the relief valve. One advantage not mentioned for metal bucket is easier static discharge. I got a hell of a belt from the inside of my plastic drum after a few hours sanding on a dry sunny day.
I think that's very wise Kevin, and given how easy it is to install I would have done the same if I'd known about it earlier. Just get a 28mm drill bit though 😉👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte good old Amazon have just delivered it, the next thing will be trying to get time to fit it 🙈. Got a patio and a garden to finish before I get to play in my workshop
Either your vacuum is not as powerfull as mine or that drum is thicker gauge steel but you can certainly implode a steel drum as I found out when making the same thing. The relief valve you have there is the same one I ended up getting to resolve my issues. No harm is sticking another relief valve on your nice new steel drum just incase.
I have the Triton system. It is a filtered bucket that relys on the weight of shavings falling to the bottom of the bucket but it blocks as quickly as a vacuum would with dust. I'm sure it would work with a saw, no good with RO sander.
Thanks Tan, that's good to know. I so nearly bought it and wouldn't have gone through this interesting process. I really recommend you build yourself a cyclone.
In part 4 of this series, Charlie adds a caster wheeled platform for his drum. In part 5 of the series Charlie uses the offcuts from the wardrobe build to make an all in one unit on wheeled casters for both the drum and the vacuum to sit on so he can easily move it around. P.S. there are some good examples of this on UA-cam. Great little upgrade, though be wary if you ever move to a much more powerful vacuum that you could still collapse the metal drum.
You guys will always be one step ahead 👍🏻 Yes a few people have said you can still collapse a drum. I'll keep an eye on that. Castor wheels will be a bit of a luxury for that tented workshop although the wheel I use to wheel in each sheet of MDF has been a game changer! bit.ly/3r89Bpm
@@CharlieDIYte I thought about taking an angle grinder to an old calor gas bottle (or beer keg if you had one). I doubt that would clapse. But you could also have glued wood strips to the outside of the plastic barrel, so an external eco-skeleton instead of internal. Also a slight warning the the metal barrel could be dangerous if for example you cut aluminium, as the sparks can be highly explosive. keeping such a lot of MDF dust is very explosive too! press into bricks wrapped and paper and you can burn it safely.
Excellent timing Charlie: just as I've been considering my vacuum options. I'm about to buy a table saw. I have the household ducted vacuum machine in the garage (near said saw). And I feel that this is the very solution I need to connect all three!!
You're very welcome Jonathan. Check out my first video bit.ly/3fssYHn for details of the additional hose attachments I bought although actually, the 5m hose from the vacuum to cyclone is a bit long.
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you Charlie. I've just discovered your channel, and your earlier video was one of the first I watched yesterday. All very interesting and clear. I thought I'd have to fork out for a workshop vac, but with this solution I think not. As an inveterate perfectionist, I wonder whether you have discovered a 'Y' connector to bring the blade and bottom outlets into one hose to the vacuum. Or, as I suppose, is a 'T' is perfectly adequate?
Yep, I use a 40 Gallon Steel Drum, nice and clean….which I obtained from a company near me that has powder coating paint delivered in the drums…and bought it from them for £15… I use the Axminster Cyclone (little bigger than yours), with 1.5 horse power motor on an Axminster craft dust filter… I do have a smaller plastic cyclone, that is set up with another old vacuum metal drum, and serves other tools in my workshop via vacuum dust gates…
@@CharlieDIYte Not really, just expensive… I couldn’t believe the money they charge for dust extraction hose, but I got 10 metres of 100mm diameter, to serve the whole set up, and 75mm for the rest, that serves the two machines I have fixed in place, another two I can connect as required, with reducers… tip…always keep any old hoover/vacuum tubes and connectors you can get hold of…I found them invaluable when trying to connect various hand tools to the dust collection system, and even made a few bodged-up connectors that work too… I also have a home-made workshop dust collector for collecting airborne dusts…I used a fairly cheap but powerful fan I bought new from an agricultural company, that are used to ventilate hot houses etc…and filters cut from filter bags over a cut-out thin plywood frame that simply slides into a slot in front of the box housing the fan…works a treat…and is suspended from the roof of the small workshop - so sets up a circling pattern of air movement around the shop, and towards the filter….seems to work judging by the dusts that build up on the filter….
Wish I’d seen this before my plastic container collapsed - I’d watched a number of videos recommending a cyclone but none of them mentioned a release valve … not very clever when you think about it … so thanks!
Brilliant. I was going to make one after watching your first video but then it mentioned it imploded so I didn’t get the stuff. I’m going to order a metal barrel and get cracking
Wish you’d posted this a day earlier before mine crumpled like newspaper!! I’ve bought an air admittance valve from Toolstation as, like you say, it was difficult to find a ready made valve. Now that I’ve seen this I’ll be getting one of those bad boys though. Thanks 😊
@@CharlieDIYte They’re used to stop a vacuum occurring on soil pipes, letting air in, but not out. Ended up buying the dust commander valve that you recommended so currently waiting on Amazon to arrive.
@@CharlieDIYte It's really brilliant, I don't understand why people think it's expensive when it solves such a big problem, people complains about everything nowadays.
Wooden box I used with sash window clamps to hold lid and rubber draft seal makes it air tight. I actually used a £2 car boot bread box. Ha. Toppling over is not a problem for me. I'm looking at wireless switches for none power takeoff vacs at the moment like the festool upgrades to their vacuums. I pass big dug most days and they sell some great stuff and like the metal barrel. .
I built the same as you and the same thing happened. My solution was the same too. Although my suction relief valve is in the tube going to the cyclone so the cyclone keeps spinning even when the inlet is blocked. This is the same solution Dyson use on their vacuums As a tech teacher we had an extraction system that sucked the dust into a plastic bag supported on the inside by a mesh cage. But the bags kept popping inwards through the holes. So we used a steel dustbin instead and omitted the steel cage. Have you ever seen a steel dustbin sucked flat? I have.
Hi Charlie have you tried using the cyclone when sucking up liquids. I assume no water gets to the vacuum so if you are carefull the henry could be used for licuids
Still love mine, as I warned you when you set yours up they WILL implode :) had I seen the metal drum I would have definitely gone with that option. In fact I'm tempted to buy a steel drum anyway as it's shorter so will fit easier under my workbench.
As I was watching the video I thought I must get a pressure relief valve for mine, but then the shorter metal drum I thought maybe I should go for that, as it too will then fit under the workbench! The plastic drum with the fittings on top is just too tall when it’s in the mobile cart
Excellent video, thank you. Not all metal drums are equal however 😕, I bought a cyclone and metal drum from Amazon, the drum collapsed on the first test! Thanks for the tip about the pressure relief valve, I will be fitting one to my metal drum.
@@CharlieDIYte Yes, you are probably right, my vacuum is quite powerful. I've drawn up and 3D printed a valve, it's probably a bit too small as the drum still collapses a little. I might roll some thin steel hoops and rivet them inside the drum to reinforce it slightly. All an interesting experiment......😀
They make pressure relief valves for inflatable boats, to stop them bursting when the sun comes out. They may have done the job too. Great video, thanks.
@@CharlieDIYte maybe on the bigger ones? An example here: www.ribstore.co.uk/products/leafield-marine-a6-pressure-relief-valve-prv?_pos=1&_sid=ec43289fa&_ss=r
I built aThein baffle to sit on top of a clear plastic bin and looked everywhere for a suitable pressure relief valve, but couldn't find one. Eventually the bin imploded so I built my own wooden circular(ish) bin with a Plexiglas window. It works a treat, but I wish I'd seen this a year ago.
Thanks Carl. Yes I'm really pleased with it. Some people say the steel drums can still implode so for belt and braces you could install a valve on this too, but I don't think my vacuum set up would be strong enough to implode it 👍🏻
I'll add that to the list Kieran. I've got a Stanley Promobile Jobchest like this amzn.to/2RD2gCf - which I affectionately refer to as "the Beast". This contains all my hand tools, but everything else is a bit randomly stored on shelves in my recently tidied cellar bit.ly/3u4XUAP I like to have power tools like circular saws/ plunge saws, sanders and routers in their own bags along with all the bits and bobs that you need for them. Some of these bags are repurposed from the combi kits they came with. Screws and wall plugs are in metal boxes with dividers. You used to be able to buy them empty from Screwfix but now you can only get them with all the screws inside. Stanley do some quite good plastic screw boxes like this amzn.to/2RzpQjf which are good for fixings. Finally I have an Antler suit case that contains my 18v power tools like drills, drill drivers, lamps etc - which is a throw back to my old day job as it was much easier to carry then round this way. People used to think I was moving in, when I arrived at the door with my suitcase 🤣 Those Amazon links are affiliate links btw.
Well worth it mate. Apparently even the metal drums can implode so I've now got one for that but haven't got round to fitting it yet. Great channel btw. 👊
You mention the holes hard to mark with a pen, have a look at tracer pen and pencil set designed to mark in deep holes idea for when a standard sharpie dosnt fit!
Hi Richard. The cyclone gives you a much larger drum to collect the dust/ wood shavings, and is a game changer for that Titan which is if I'm honest hopeless with vacuum bags as they don't fit properly as discussed here ua-cam.com/video/cWlXOrnZpp4/v-deo.html I think this vac was always designed as a static shop vac intended to be attached to a cyclone. Not sure how a regular extractor works but the cyclone leaves very little going back into the vacuum.
Round top cyclones are said to be better as don't get stuff stuck at the top although I have not found that with mine that's a flat top. Also now selling with breaker bar at the top inside that will give 20% more suction with greater air flow through. I want to build another cyclone and may look to try that type if I can find one for sale. Yet again you made a brilliant instruction video. I wonder if I could use your valve on a festool systainer with a cyclone fitted then it would clip on festool vac? Cheaper option vs festool version. :)
Thanks buddy, yes I did wonder about those curved top cyclones. Not sure about your Festool question but someone commented below that they've put the valve in a T piece attached to the hose, so it's not limited to use on the drum. By the way, a lot of people have said even the metal drums can collapse, so you'd need a valve on there too.
Charlie, please be aware that any amount of air leakage below the cyclone will reduce (or stop) dust separation in the cyclone and the dust will travel towards your air handler. To avoid having debris jamming your blower, it is essential to have a secondary dust bin.
Great instructional video Charlie. I built mine today using a 25 litre metal drum purchased from Amazon. Hooked it up to my circular saw and proceeded to do a number of random cuts (enough to generate a decent amount of sawdust) Worked a treat! No dust in the shop vac. However, I decided to test this a bit further by blocking the airflow with the palm of my hand (as you demonstrated in the video) and unfortunately the drum imploded (slightly but noticeable). So not as ‘foolproof’ as I was expecting. Why do you reckon that happened ? The shop vac I’m using is a Titan 1300w 16ltr wet & dry vac.
You definitely need a pressure relief valve, even with the metal drum. A number of people have commented to say that, since I posted this video. I haven't fitted one to mine yet but I will be doing so.
@@CharlieDIYte Yeah I like the idea of having a more stable drum so I'll opt for a steel drum with the valve I think. The BigDug one is out of stock atm so I'll hang on for now (I know you can buy other steel drums but they seem more expensive and I don't have a project on the go or one coming up imminently so I don't mind waiting). Unrelated question, I've been considering buying a table saw because I always have such a pain getting nice clean, straight long cuts with my circular saw and some sort of diy workbench and jig with clamps that always seem to get in the way. Have you ever tried this option before? Any advice would be good because a decent enough table saw would set me back a few ££. (Open question to anyone else reading this comment also)
HI Charli love you video you explain it great can you you tell me could i use the bigger type of blue tube there like 50 galleons as i get a lot of wood from my planer & the small tube id have to empty every 15 minutes would using a bigger tub make any different to sucks ion & is £16.00 ABOUT THE RIGHT PRICE for cyclone to pay thank you for your time
If you want to reinforce a plastic drum rather than buy a new metal drum, I would create a wooden ring that fits the outside of the plastic drum and then drive screws from the inside of the plastic drum and goes into the wooden ring around the outside. You get the benefit of the additional support without making it any more difficult to empty the drum. As a bonus if you shape the outer ring correctly it gives you an additional grab point on the barrel.
@@CharlieDIYte I have a right angle drill that fits well inside of a barrel that size (DeWalt DCD740B). If you don't have one then I would use a sharp awl to punch through the plastic of the barrel and mark the wood ring in six or so evenly spaced places around the barrel. I would then remove the wood ring and pre-drill the wood ring and drill out the awl holes in the plastic barrel. Then you could use a shorter screwdriver and drive the screws by hand.
Contact Commercial Painters, most are happy to give you similar empty metal paint drums which are ideal and have the lock ring and seal as per the new blue one. I got 3 for free recently.
I haven't got any experience of it but someone commented that is not a proper cyclone and quickly clogs so you'd be better making your own cyclone as it's so easy to do 👍🏻
Thanks Jamal - really appreciate your support 🙏👊🏻 I'm doing a final push on the wardrobes with a video hopefully at the end of this week or possibly next. I'll be so glad to get that project out of the way so I can get back to normal and my weekly videos.
Great video Charlie as always. Is it a coincidence that the 26 litre metal drums are out of stock at BigDug or is it that your channel is so popular that we all want to buy the same kit as you? Keep up the good work. Look forward to your review of you plunge saw you mentioned in part four of your wardrobe build after the wardrobes series is finished.
Thanks Adrian. Not sure but I guess a few orders out of the ordinary can quickly eradicate stock. And unfortunately the relief valve at Amazon is also out of stock! Try out this link bit.ly/2S7akLm It's also a BigDug company. It's days 25litre but I'm pretty sure it's the same drum.
I was looking at building one of these, my idea was similar to yours but I was going to put 3 inches of quick set concrete in the bottom for weight and stability. I'd also put 4 x 3 inch screws 1.5 inches up from the bottom to hold the concrete in place when emptying, hope this makes sense :)
Putting the valve at that location makes the relief air go up the cyclone and into the vacuum, taking any debris in the cyclone with it. A relief valve on the hose or connector just before the cyclone avoids this.
Great vid as always Charlie, I've been struggling along with my partially collapsed plastic bucket for a few years. Have to wedge it so it doesn't fall over. I made it from a plastic bucket that contained a load of shower tanking kit, and have been put off by the "jam jar lid" solutions. Will be ordering a PRV! I've been meaning to repurpose the bottom of an old large wet&dry vacuum too, as it's made to be used under vacuum. With a metal drum (or any metal pipework) in a dust extraction system, need to be careful of static build up. Can either give you a minor shock (like you sometimes get from a car door), or more seriously catch fire/go bang if you collect any metal shavings. Probably not serious if all you cut is timber, but don't know how it will react to hot weather. Just be careful when cleaning up if you've been trimming metal bars etc. or if you're connecting this to other workshop equipment.
Thanks for this vid. I bought a drum cheaper than the one in the vid as the big dug has doubled in price since this video was made. Sadly it crumpled like a coke can on the first use 😂 off to buy the big dug one now. Will I ever learn?!
Hi Charlie, thank you for showing your upgrade. I bought one drum for my vacuum cleaner in my shed that I use to collect dust & wood shavings when I use my Circular Saw/Planer/Router/etc., but as the hoover fills up so quick and to ask my better half to empty for me. I am disabled, so woodworking is just something I do to keep myself occupied and hobbyist DIYer. So, simple jobs seems too much at times, so I made (and making) various jigs to help me. I was wondering do you think I should get the pressure release valve as well for just to be on the same side? Please let me know. I will upload some videos of all the jigs I am making with the help from you all PRO UA-camrs here on YT (Obviously). I believe, "Our World is a Shared Experience"... Remember *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* ... 🖖 Thank you....
Hi Charlie I have fitted valve to the same plastic bin as yours, however bin is still collapsing? Any ideas I am using a 1200 watt SIP dust extractor, could it be too powerful>???
I guess previous collapses have weakened it too much. Have you adjusted the spring to its weakest setting? Maybe get a new metal drum and add the valve to that.
I still wince watching anyone use sandpaper directly pressed on with their fingers to go over the edges of metal sheet: a few years ago I did just this, but the metal sliced straight through the paper and cut all 4 of my fingers that were pressing on quite deep! Be careful doing that!
@@CharlieDIYte Wrap the paper around some off cut broom handle or the like. Also worth buying a pair of cut proof gloves. Ultimate Handyman's UA-cam channel has a video on them if you search for it.
The thing is if you go too small you might as well just rely on the vacuum's own drum. Cyclones are kinds of meant to be used in a static environment attached to a shop vac. That metal drum I'm using isn't too big though.
@@CharlieDIYte you think maybe 15 litres might be the minimum? I think the triton one I have is 20l. It's awful for air leakage around the lid which is a shame because it could be really really good.
Hi Charlie, I’m building a cyclone vac like yours using a cheapo wet vac and the cyclone you suggested. Given the storm rain last night, and my now flooded garage, I wondered if it would separate water, instead of dust, into the bucket. Have you tried sucking up water with yours? Thanks. Great content BTW!
Thanks 👊 Hi there. It's an interesting question that. Honest answer is I don't know but you'd want to take out any hepa filter as I suspect this would be ruined if used in wet mode.
Hey @charlie any tips on fitting tongue and groove to an exiting ceiling (artex). Tongue and groove you scream. Before you start that its Dird Basil and I'm going for a provincial country feel with some finishing touches. I thought adhesive but it needs to hand and will pall off. Now I am thinking adhesive and small dry wall screws into the exiting lathes. Making a feature of them and or putting thin strips over to span the room criss cross decorative, and or doing criss cross and cutting the pin at 45 degree angles to fill the spaces like a marque but not. It will be the wood panelled ceilings of ceilings. I just have to attach the buggers
What I would do is what my mate Gerard did in this vid bit.ly/2TSnz3v Bash a few holes in the ceiling like Gerard did, periodically to find out exactly where the joists are. Doesn't matter you're making a mess because the T&G will cover it up. Buy a chalk line and ping it across the ceiling to mark each joist, and then attach each plank with tongue-tite screws like I did in this video bit.ly/2MLnWGH That way the screws will be hidden, and the ceiling totally secure. You'll get into a terrible mess if you try and glue it. 👍🏻
Used your link for the French supplier. Orders amfor 6 euro plus postage came within a few days. Excellent. Cheers for the help.
Glad to hear it Chris. Yes I think they went out of stock on Amazon quite soon after this vid. But the French co run a good efficient service a you say. It's a great little valve. Hope the install goes well
Charlie, to aid emptying, add a bin bag to the empty drum, drape over the edge, then fit the lid as usual, you'll be able to just pull the whole load out without pouring it out and getting mdf dust everywhere 👌🏻
Thanks Matthew. That's a great tip 👍🏻
Won't the bin bag get sucked up?
@@hb4519 No, whilst there is negative (suction) pressure inside the bag, it's can't go anywhere because there's no way for air to get between the bag & and the bin.
Stumpynubs shows it here
ua-cam.com/video/oosMqnORR6k/v-deo.html
Would concur with this idea, anything that stops the spread of the dust is a great big plus. I think that time will show us just how dangerous this type of dust will be, it does contain known carcinogenic matterial.
@@molland8 mine sucks the bag right into the cyclone. Had to add a hose running from the vac hose to the bottom of the van to hold the bag down.
Excellent idea to relieve the vacuum by using a relief valve! The only issue I have with it is your placement of the valve.
Yes, it is the barrel that is collapsing, but it does so due to the vacuum being created in the cyclone due to the inlet to the cyclone being too obstructed.
By placing a entrypoint for air into the barrel itself you allow a backflow of air from barrel up through cyclone and out into your filters. Instead, place the valve so it allows fresh air into the stream coming to the inlet side of the cyclone. This adds extra fresh air to avoid too high vacuum and the fresh air helps keep separation of dust through the cyclone as high as possible.
Thanks 👌
Having just bought my first wet/dry vac, I'm now excited to have a go at making one of these cyclone barrels!
Also, I've lost count of the number of videos of yours that have been invaluable to me over the last few months since our buying our first property (though the DIY circular saw guide video and the ones about the relative strength of various plasterboard fixings spring to mind as especially useful recent examples), so the least I can do is chuck you a wee tip to show my appreciation for your work with this channel. It really has helped clear up so much of the mystery and intimidating sense of "unknown unknowns" that held me back from attempting DIY in the past, and has made it feel so much more accessible and (pun not intended) doable!
Oh yeah, and just remembered the wheel gadget for carrying sheet wood... GENIUS. (Which has also reminded me about the portable workbench which I can't wait to attempt to make one day!)
Mate I'm blown away by that pledge. Thanks so much. Sorry only just seen your message - working on a pig of a video at the moment with a sponsorship (which is always tricky) so I'm a bit behind. So humbled you're watching so many of my vids and massively grateful you got in touch. It can be quite exhausting editing and recording 24/7 and people like you are invaluable in keeping my mojo up. 👌👊
Cheers Charlie! Brilliant little addition to the system. I agree; it's a no-brainer if you already have the plastic barrel! 👍
I regularly recommend your content to my customers. I know at least a handful that said “it’s bloody great”.
Thanks so much mate. I really appreciate that. What line of work after you in, out of interest?
It's a brilliant idea that solved same problem happened so many time, even one old bucket was totally broken. After watch this video, I made a similar little system. Problem solved. Thanks for sharing this video. 👍🏻👍🏻
Good work. Glad you've sorted it!
I made mine from a metal drum from an old ash vac and some 40mm waste pipe and a couple of elbows works great
Great work, Mark 👍🏻
Bought that valve before the video was over. Thank you for the instruction!!
I just bought that valve and it is already attached to my suction system. The truth is that yes, it perfectly solves the problem of crushing, but it must be recognized that a little suction power is lost. No matter how much the valve is regulated, you never get it to stay completely closed until it starts to collapse, but it still sucks perfectly.
An idea that I contribute: I, instead of installing it in the lid of the barrel, I have placed it in a "T" of PVC, in the middle of the inlet hose. In that piece of PVC in the shape of a "T", in one of the inlets, I have put a blind plug, and there, I connect the valve (on one side inlet hose; on the other outlet hose, and in the center, in the blind cover, the valve) In this way, I can easily replace the barrel with another, and the valve will always be installed in the circuit.
That's ingenious, thanks for sharing 👍
Charlie - congratulations - that is the correct engineering solution for the plastic barrel and much better than incorporating internal stiffeners. In fact that is also the correct solution for the metal drum too, a more powerful vacuum will collapse it.
I may well spring for the Big Dug and the valve - thanks for the heads up. 😀👍
Thanks Norman and good to hear from you - hope all's well. Yes quite a few of you have warned about the metal drum collapsing. I probably will install a valve on that one too. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Is it though? The air that enters through the valve travels through the reject port of the dust separator and picks up all the debree along the way straight into the vacuum. It completely defeats the purpose of having a cyclone in the first place. I think that the last option of getting a sturdier drum is the way to go.
Its nice to know there are other people out there that like to keep things the same because the connections/ adapters are a pain to get right. Another thing some dust collectors are made out of anti static properties to prevent nasty discharges and workshop bombs.
My wooden brace attempt also failed so used some left over woven roven and fibreglass and coated the inside of the drum with it. Perks of a boat project lol. Worked a treat. Thanks for the idea in the first place though. Never looked back👍👍
Thank you for making my day. Have been looking for a valve for a long time. Greetings from Sweden
Mats, you have in turn made my day! Thanks mate. Really glad you found it useful 👊🏻
Thanks a lot for this content. Using the metal barrel without valve (was out of stock) it imploded with 1800W shopvac after a couple of uses. I tried again with the plastic barrel with the valve and unfortunately it did compress slightly, even with an 800W at minimum setting. I did not like the idea of the wooden ring so I used a 1 mm thick 14 cm by 1 m grid, placed in the barrel as central reinforcement attached with hot glue and and cable-ties to join the ends. So far plastic barrel + 1800W + valve + reinforcement works fine.
Good work. Glad it's fixed the problem. If you ever buy another one I can massively recommend that valve though.
I had a plastic drum identical to the one in the video, it kept imploding so I inserted a brace midway, guess what, yes it imploded elsewhere. My solution I built my own out of laminate boards that I had lying around. Sealed all internal seams with silicone, fitted a rubber seal on the lid with 4 spring toggle clamps off eBay. Bingo works a treat.
Funnily enough Brian I was wondering if that happened. A single brace doesn't seem enough to me. Yes that's a great option. I was only put off doing that by the process of emptying it but it sounds like you've sorted that with the spring toggles 👏🏻👍🏻
Wow, sold! The Titan bags are horrendous. Split open every time. Will probably get the PRV kit as well though because it will reduce strain on the vacuum.
Karl, I agree. I had abandoned the Titan soon after I bought it as not only what you say but they didn't even fit over the inlet nozzle. The cyclone has given it a new lease of life though and made me realise that it's only really designed as a static shop vac. In that capacity it's actually rather good 👍🏻
Maybe stupid question but how do you empty the barrel? I have a 200lister barrel and have to shovel out when full and sometimes every 2nd or 3rd day is annoying
Thanks Charlie, got the dust collector waiting for the drum. Sent you a small gift.
Thanks buddy. That sounds exciting. You might as a precaution install a pressure relief valve on the metal drum too as a lot of people are saying even these can collapse.👍🏻
Back to your video, then. Thanks for the tip
I followed your original cyclone idea at the time and have used it since. Great thanks for that. The plastic barrel walls started sucking inwards in use today so I'm going to try a different option to your suggestions here.
I don't fancy a pressure relief valve because it costs electricity to create the suction so the valve throws some of that effort away to stop the barrel collapsing.
I looked at the metal drum to replace the plastic one but that's another £60 or so and a waste of the plastic barrel.
I've ordered an 11 litre metal container from Oipps which will act as an insert to the plastic barrel. It'll come slightly above halfway and, at 24cm diameter, will set a limit to the wall movement.
It would become a nuisance when emptying the barrel if I didn't follow Matthew Holland's great advice and use a bin bag as an internal collector.
Talking of great advice, thanks for all your helpful videos.
You're welcome Steve. Thanks for comment. One point though - metal drums can collapse too so strengthening the drum or using the valve are definitely the way to go. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte True, entropy always wins but a metal inner cylinder (in the shape of a bucket) will delay the inevitable for at least a couple of years. Fingers crossed.
Incidentally, I posted a comment on wasps nests saying that I was reluctant to use poison. That was before getting stung on the face and right foot when I was preparing for the solar panel guys to come in and do their stuff. The solar panel guys won't run that risk, 'nuff said. 🙂
Just installed one of these on my cyclone. Great find and suggestion!
It's a great bit of kit isn't it and the peace of mind knowing your bin won't implode - which people are saying also happens on the metal bins 👍🏻
Had never thought of installing a prv. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome 👍🏻
I made a very simple dust extractor using a plastic bucket with a lid that I got for free when purchasing a big bag of dog food. On my very first use, the bucket collapsed. I just added a plywood ring inside. Never had any problem since.
Cut the top rings off of another bucket and drop your cyclone bucket into the 2/3 height cut bucket. It looks like it's still one bucket, but the added outside bucket keeps the inner bucket round. Found on another video on YT
That's a great idea, thanks for sharing 👊
I've been watching similar videos today, and one shows the metal bin collapsing as well. The best thing to do is buy whichever suits you best, but install the valve in all drums.
Agreed 👌
Great solution Charlie - I built my cyclone with a flimsy fermentation bucket and guess what it failed pretty quickly - prior to that astonishingly efficient and well worthwhile so I think I will be adding the pressure relief valve you have used.
It's well worth it Mat, particularly given the price 👍🏻
To prevent my plastic bucket from collapsing I winded a bit of aluminum or copper heat pipe in a coil and let it expand in the center of the bucket. Sorted.
Nice work 👌
Necessity is the mother of invention. Adapt evolve,and build us diy ers are always inventing 👍👍
Exactly 👊🏻👍🏻
Thanks Charlie, built it today and it worked a dream. Only issue was that I purchased black sealant and it went everywhere. Love the channel
My metal drum imploded. Got plastic with the relief valve. One advantage not mentioned for metal bucket is easier static discharge. I got a hell of a belt from the inside of my plastic drum after a few hours sanding on a dry sunny day.
I meant to mention the static.🤦 So metal drum with the relief valve is the to go.
Nice video, have just ordered the valve for my set up. Barrel has never collapsed yet but better safe than sorry 👌
I think that's very wise Kevin, and given how easy it is to install I would have done the same if I'd known about it earlier. Just get a 28mm drill bit though 😉👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte good old Amazon have just delivered it, the next thing will be trying to get time to fit it 🙈. Got a patio and a garden to finish before I get to play in my workshop
Great info. Subscribed after I saw how you linked to all the resources. Thanks for being truly helpful!
Thanks Justin, I really appreciate the sub 👍🏻
Either your vacuum is not as powerfull as mine or that drum is thicker gauge steel but you can certainly implode a steel drum as I found out when making the same thing. The relief valve you have there is the same one I ended up getting to resolve my issues. No harm is sticking another relief valve on your nice new steel drum just incase.
You're right, Lee. There's no harm in doing that 👍🏻
1atm (negative gradient) across the steel drum will definitely resulting implosion. I agree, PRV is still essential.
6:29 Grab yourself a 'Pica deep hole marker' marking out those awkward bolt holes. Cant stress enough how useful its been.
YES, I definitely need one of those, Luke. Thanks so much for that. I'm on it 👊🏻
I have the Triton system. It is a filtered bucket that relys on the weight of shavings falling to the bottom of the bucket but it blocks as quickly as a vacuum would with dust. I'm sure it would work with a saw, no good with RO sander.
Thanks Tan, that's good to know. I so nearly bought it and wouldn't have gone through this interesting process. I really recommend you build yourself a cyclone.
BTW, thank you Charlie, enjoying your well thought out insights into your solutions :)
@@CharlieDIYte I'm convinced its the way forward! Thank you Charlie.
You're welcome 👍🏻
My 25 ltr heavy duty tin plate drum collapsed the third time of use. Will go back to plastic with relief v/v. Thanks for the tip.
Sorry to hear that Peter. Yes a few people have said that - I wish I had caveated my vid with these experiences. Relief valves are the way forward.
In part 4 of this series, Charlie adds a caster wheeled platform for his drum.
In part 5 of the series Charlie uses the offcuts from the wardrobe build to make an all in one unit on wheeled casters for both the drum and the vacuum to sit on so he can easily move it around.
P.S. there are some good examples of this on UA-cam.
Great little upgrade, though be wary if you ever move to a much more powerful vacuum that you could still collapse the metal drum.
You guys will always be one step ahead 👍🏻 Yes a few people have said you can still collapse a drum. I'll keep an eye on that. Castor wheels will be a bit of a luxury for that tented workshop although the wheel I use to wheel in each sheet of MDF has been a game changer! bit.ly/3r89Bpm
@@CharlieDIYte I thought about taking an angle grinder to an old calor gas bottle (or beer keg if you had one). I doubt that would clapse. But you could also have glued wood strips to the outside of the plastic barrel, so an external eco-skeleton instead of internal. Also a slight warning the the metal barrel could be dangerous if for example you cut aluminium, as the sparks can be highly explosive. keeping such a lot of MDF dust is very explosive too! press into bricks wrapped and paper and you can burn it safely.
Excellent timing Charlie: just as I've been considering my vacuum options. I'm about to buy a table saw. I have the household ducted vacuum machine in the garage (near said saw). And I feel that this is the very solution I need to connect all three!!
You're very welcome Jonathan. Check out my first video bit.ly/3fssYHn for details of the additional hose attachments I bought although actually, the 5m hose from the vacuum to cyclone is a bit long.
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you Charlie. I've just discovered your channel, and your earlier video was one of the first I watched yesterday. All very interesting and clear. I thought I'd have to fork out for a workshop vac, but with this solution I think not. As an inveterate perfectionist, I wonder whether you have discovered a 'Y' connector to bring the blade and bottom outlets into one hose to the vacuum. Or, as I suppose, is a 'T' is perfectly adequate?
Yep, I use a 40 Gallon Steel Drum, nice and clean….which I obtained from a company near me that has powder coating paint delivered in the drums…and bought it from them for £15… I use the Axminster Cyclone (little bigger than yours), with 1.5 horse power motor on an Axminster craft dust filter… I do have a smaller plastic cyclone, that is set up with another old vacuum metal drum, and serves other tools in my workshop via vacuum dust gates…
That's an awesome set up 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Not really, just expensive… I couldn’t believe the money they charge for dust extraction hose, but I got 10 metres of 100mm diameter, to serve the whole set up, and 75mm for the rest, that serves the two machines I have fixed in place, another two I can connect as required, with reducers… tip…always keep any old hoover/vacuum tubes and connectors you can get hold of…I found them invaluable when trying to connect various hand tools to the dust collection system, and even made a few bodged-up connectors that work too… I also have a home-made workshop dust collector for collecting airborne dusts…I used a fairly cheap but powerful fan I bought new from an agricultural company, that are used to ventilate hot houses etc…and filters cut from filter bags over a cut-out thin plywood frame that simply slides into a slot in front of the box housing the fan…works a treat…and is suspended from the roof of the small workshop - so sets up a circling pattern of air movement around the shop, and towards the filter….seems to work judging by the dusts that build up on the filter….
Wish I’d seen this before my plastic container collapsed - I’d watched a number of videos recommending a cyclone but none of them mentioned a release valve … not very clever when you think about it … so thanks!
As always, a very good video, much appreciated. Thanks charlie
Thanks Val 🙏
Brilliant. I was going to make one after watching your first video but then it mentioned it imploded so I didn’t get the stuff. I’m going to order a metal barrel and get cracking
Very wise. That would be my option 👍🏻
Wish you’d posted this a day earlier before mine crumpled like newspaper!! I’ve bought an air admittance valve from Toolstation as, like you say, it was difficult to find a ready made valve. Now that I’ve seen this I’ll be getting one of those bad boys though. Thanks 😊
Go for it Kyle. I'm very impressed with it, but get a 28mm hole saw 👍🏻
I must have missed those. Does it work in a similar way?
@@CharlieDIYte They’re used to stop a vacuum occurring on soil pipes, letting air in, but not out. Ended up buying the dust commander valve that you recommended so currently waiting on Amazon to arrive.
im going with the valve, got plenty of plastic drums lying around this old house im renovating, the previous owner used them to collect rain water
thanks btw for the tips xoxoxoxo
Just installed it and worked perfectly!
It's brilliant isn't it. Can't believe there are so few people making these.
@@CharlieDIYte It's really brilliant, I don't understand why people think it's expensive when it solves such a big problem, people complains about everything nowadays.
Wooden box I used with sash window clamps to hold lid and rubber draft seal makes it air tight. I actually used a £2 car boot bread box. Ha.
Toppling over is not a problem for me.
I'm looking at wireless switches for none power takeoff vacs at the moment like the festool upgrades to their vacuums.
I pass big dug most days and they sell some great stuff and like the metal barrel. .
I built the same as you and the same thing happened. My solution was the same too. Although my suction relief valve is in the tube going to the cyclone so the cyclone keeps spinning even when the inlet is blocked. This is the same solution Dyson use on their vacuums
As a tech teacher we had an extraction system that sucked the dust into a plastic bag supported on the inside by a mesh cage. But the bags kept popping inwards through the holes. So we used a steel dustbin instead and omitted the steel cage. Have you ever seen a steel dustbin sucked flat? I have.
Thanks Donald. Very interesting. Yes, after everyone's comments, I'm thinking a valve on the steel bin too would be a wise idea.
Hi Charlie have you tried using the cyclone when sucking up liquids. I assume no water gets to the vacuum so if you are carefull the henry could be used for licuids
That's an interesting question John. No I haven't, but I agree it should work in theory
Still love mine, as I warned you when you set yours up they WILL implode :) had I seen the metal drum I would have definitely gone with that option.
In fact I'm tempted to buy a steel drum anyway as it's shorter so will fit easier under my workbench.
Yes I remember you saying that 😬 Yes that steel drum is a tidy bit of kit 👍🏻
As I was watching the video I thought I must get a pressure relief valve for mine, but then the shorter metal drum I thought maybe I should go for that, as it too will then fit under the workbench! The plastic drum with the fittings on top is just too tall when it’s in the mobile cart
Excellent video, thank you. Not all metal drums are equal however 😕, I bought a cyclone and metal drum from Amazon, the drum collapsed on the first test! Thanks for the tip about the pressure relief valve, I will be fitting one to my metal drum.
Yep a lot of people have said that. I think it's more about the power of the vac than the drum strength. Definitely worth buying a valve.
@@CharlieDIYte Yes, you are probably right, my vacuum is quite powerful. I've drawn up and 3D printed a valve, it's probably a bit too small as the drum still collapses a little. I might roll some thin steel hoops and rivet them inside the drum to reinforce it slightly. All an interesting experiment......😀
They make pressure relief valves for inflatable boats, to stop them bursting when the sun comes out. They may have done the job too. Great video, thanks.
I've not seen those Geoff. The inflatable boats I'm familiar with (we had an Avon Searider once) just got harder and harder in the sun. 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte maybe on the bigger ones? An example here: www.ribstore.co.uk/products/leafield-marine-a6-pressure-relief-valve-prv?_pos=1&_sid=ec43289fa&_ss=r
I built aThein baffle to sit on top of a clear plastic bin and looked everywhere for a suitable pressure relief valve, but couldn't find one.
Eventually the bin imploded so I built my own wooden circular(ish) bin with a Plexiglas window.
It works a treat, but I wish I'd seen this a year ago.
Thanks for this Peter. Yes it's perplexing that there aren't more relief valves available.
Great feature charlie I plan something similar for my dust extraction system soon and try and show on my small youtube channel "Eire Workshop"
Great video Charlie
The steel drum is the dog’s Bo!!ocks mate I think I’ll have to make one now …. Bullet-proof 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carl. Yes I'm really pleased with it. Some people say the steel drums can still implode so for belt and braces you could install a valve on this too, but I don't think my vacuum set up would be strong enough to implode it 👍🏻
Can you do a video review on the trend 4 piece storage system. Also what your storage system is for all your tools/screws
I'll add that to the list Kieran. I've got a Stanley Promobile Jobchest like this amzn.to/2RD2gCf - which I affectionately refer to as "the Beast". This contains all my hand tools, but everything else is a bit randomly stored on shelves in my recently tidied cellar bit.ly/3u4XUAP I like to have power tools like circular saws/ plunge saws, sanders and routers in their own bags along with all the bits and bobs that you need for them. Some of these bags are repurposed from the combi kits they came with. Screws and wall plugs are in metal boxes with dividers. You used to be able to buy them empty from Screwfix but now you can only get them with all the screws inside. Stanley do some quite good plastic screw boxes like this amzn.to/2RzpQjf which are good for fixings. Finally I have an Antler suit case that contains my 18v power tools like drills, drill drivers, lamps etc - which is a throw back to my old day job as it was much easier to carry then round this way. People used to think I was moving in, when I arrived at the door with my suitcase 🤣 Those Amazon links are affiliate links btw.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks I love your Chanel it’s an inspiration to me as a DIY er.
Im defiantly going to add one to my next cyclone
Well worth it mate. Apparently even the metal drums can implode so I've now got one for that but haven't got round to fitting it yet. Great channel btw. 👊
Very nice video, great tips..
Buying my valve right now. =)
You mention the holes hard to mark with a pen, have a look at tracer pen and pencil set designed to mark in deep holes idea for when a standard sharpie dosnt fit!
Thanks Max. That's a great tip 👍🏻
What s the reason for a cyclone as opposed to just a regular dust extractor? Thanks for your videos.
Hi Richard. The cyclone gives you a much larger drum to collect the dust/ wood shavings, and is a game changer for that Titan which is if I'm honest hopeless with vacuum bags as they don't fit properly as discussed here ua-cam.com/video/cWlXOrnZpp4/v-deo.html I think this vac was always designed as a static shop vac intended to be attached to a cyclone. Not sure how a regular extractor works but the cyclone leaves very little going back into the vacuum.
@@CharlieDIYte Excellent. Thanks.
Round top cyclones are said to be better as don't get stuff stuck at the top although I have not found that with mine that's a flat top.
Also now selling with breaker bar at the top inside that will give 20% more suction with greater air flow through. I want to build another cyclone and may look to try that type if I can find one for sale. Yet again you made a brilliant instruction video.
I wonder if I could use your valve on a festool systainer with a cyclone fitted then it would clip on festool vac? Cheaper option vs festool version.
:)
Thanks buddy, yes I did wonder about those curved top cyclones. Not sure about your Festool question but someone commented below that they've put the valve in a T piece attached to the hose, so it's not limited to use on the drum. By the way, a lot of people have said even the metal drums can collapse, so you'd need a valve on there too.
How do you supposed attaching a few supports to the outside would have helped? Maybe some pvc pipes or scrap woood.
Charlie, please be aware that any amount of air leakage below the cyclone will reduce (or stop) dust separation in the cyclone and the dust will travel towards your air handler. To avoid having debris jamming your blower, it is essential to have a secondary dust bin.
Thanks Richard. I think that's overkill in my rather heath robinson DIY set up but I hear what you say 👍🏻
Is it possible to hook up the George wet and dry vacuum up to a cyclone kit?
I just used two pieces of 2x1 made an X in the barrel, scrap wood, very low cost, and quick to do.
Doesn't that make it a bit of a pain to empty?
Great Video Charlie
Great instructional video Charlie. I built mine today using a 25 litre metal drum purchased from Amazon. Hooked it up to my circular saw and proceeded to do a number of random cuts (enough to generate a decent amount of sawdust) Worked a treat! No dust in the shop vac. However, I decided to test this a bit further by blocking the airflow with the palm of my hand (as you demonstrated in the video) and unfortunately the drum imploded (slightly but noticeable). So not as ‘foolproof’ as I was expecting. Why do you reckon that happened ? The shop vac I’m using is a Titan 1300w 16ltr wet & dry vac.
You definitely need a pressure relief valve, even with the metal drum. A number of people have commented to say that, since I posted this video. I haven't fitted one to mine yet but I will be doing so.
@@CharlieDIYte Thought I’d need one. Thanks for responding mate.
Another great video Charlie, well done
Thanks Ben 👍🏻
Just watched again as my drum gave in with this warm weather. Relief valve ordered from France 👍. Still only 6 euros (10 quid including shipping)
Yep, mine collapsed in the hot weather too Christopher. You won't get it - great value as you say!
This is excellent. Thanks Charlie!
Thanks Chris. From the comments, I think the consensus is, even with a metal drum it's wise to install a valve.
@@CharlieDIYte Yeah I like the idea of having a more stable drum so I'll opt for a steel drum with the valve I think. The BigDug one is out of stock atm so I'll hang on for now (I know you can buy other steel drums but they seem more expensive and I don't have a project on the go or one coming up imminently so I don't mind waiting).
Unrelated question, I've been considering buying a table saw because I always have such a pain getting nice clean, straight long cuts with my circular saw and some sort of diy workbench and jig with clamps that always seem to get in the way. Have you ever tried this option before?
Any advice would be good because a decent enough table saw would set me back a few ££.
(Open question to anyone else reading this comment also)
HI Charli love you video you explain it great can you you tell me could i use the bigger type of blue tube there like 50 galleons as i get a lot of wood from my planer & the small tube id have to empty every 15 minutes would using a bigger tub make any different to sucks ion & is £16.00 ABOUT THE RIGHT PRICE for cyclone to pay thank you for your time
Thank you so much for this video.
Very during the time you showed this whole process ... :)
Take care of yourself there.
Thanks buddy. You too 👊🏻
I would still fit the relief valve . If you were to ding or dent the side of the drum that may be enough to start a colapse . Good video though
Yes, you and a few other people have suggested that. I think you're probably right 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte watch the video of the oil drum 🛢 imploding by having a vacuum created inside by cooling it
If you want to reinforce a plastic drum rather than buy a new metal drum, I would create a wooden ring that fits the outside of the plastic drum and then drive screws from the inside of the plastic drum and goes into the wooden ring around the outside. You get the benefit of the additional support without making it any more difficult to empty the drum. As a bonus if you shape the outer ring correctly it gives you an additional grab point on the barrel.
How are you driving in the screws? With an offset bit?
@@CharlieDIYte I have a right angle drill that fits well inside of a barrel that size (DeWalt DCD740B). If you don't have one then I would use a sharp awl to punch through the plastic of the barrel and mark the wood ring in six or so evenly spaced places around the barrel. I would then remove the wood ring and pre-drill the wood ring and drill out the awl holes in the plastic barrel. Then you could use a shorter screwdriver and drive the screws by hand.
Need some big washers on that, otherwise the plastic will just impolde anyway and pull over the screw heads.
Contact Commercial Painters, most are happy to give you similar empty metal paint drums which are ideal and have the lock ring and seal as per the new blue one. I got 3 for free recently.
Thanks Greg. Great thinking 👍🏻
Smart on both! Thanks for sharing.🙂👍
I really need this...Thank You
You're welcome 👍🏻
You could brace the plastic barrel with screwed rod nuts and washers, I wonder if that would work
fantastic video thank you just wondering what are your thoughts on Triton dust collectors bucket ?
I haven't got any experience of it but someone commented that is not a proper cyclone and quickly clogs so you'd be better making your own cyclone as it's so easy to do 👍🏻
Big fan, hope for more videos soon👍
Thanks Jamal - really appreciate your support 🙏👊🏻 I'm doing a final push on the wardrobes with a video hopefully at the end of this week or possibly next. I'll be so glad to get that project out of the way so I can get back to normal and my weekly videos.
Great video Charlie as always. Is it a coincidence that the 26 litre metal drums are out of stock at BigDug or is it that your channel is so popular that we all want to buy the same kit as you? Keep up the good work. Look forward to your review of you plunge saw you mentioned in part four of your wardrobe build after the wardrobes series is finished.
Thanks Adrian. Not sure but I guess a few orders out of the ordinary can quickly eradicate stock. And unfortunately the relief valve at Amazon is also out of stock! Try out this link bit.ly/2S7akLm It's also a BigDug company. It's days 25litre but I'm pretty sure it's the same drum.
I was looking at building one of these, my idea was similar to yours but I was going to put 3 inches of quick set concrete in the bottom for weight and stability. I'd also put 4 x 3 inch screws 1.5 inches up from the bottom to hold the concrete in place when emptying, hope this makes sense :)
The concrete setting may exude temperatures which may possibly melt or weaken the plastic drum
I don't think I'd bother with the concrete.
Make a little dolly for it to sit on, have a shelf beneath that you can put some bricks etc in if you want to add some ballast to stop it tipping.
@@dan7777 Hmm, I'll sit it in water possibly? I'll see how stable it is first tbh. If it doesn't fall over I won't bother 😁
Added to my to do wishlist! :)
Putting the valve at that location makes the relief air go up the cyclone and into the vacuum, taking any debris in the cyclone with it. A relief valve on the hose or connector just before the cyclone avoids this.
Great vid as always Charlie, I've been struggling along with my partially collapsed plastic bucket for a few years. Have to wedge it so it doesn't fall over. I made it from a plastic bucket that contained a load of shower tanking kit, and have been put off by the "jam jar lid" solutions. Will be ordering a PRV! I've been meaning to repurpose the bottom of an old large wet&dry vacuum too, as it's made to be used under vacuum.
With a metal drum (or any metal pipework) in a dust extraction system, need to be careful of static build up. Can either give you a minor shock (like you sometimes get from a car door), or more seriously catch fire/go bang if you collect any metal shavings. Probably not serious if all you cut is timber, but don't know how it will react to hot weather. Just be careful when cleaning up if you've been trimming metal bars etc. or if you're connecting this to other workshop equipment.
Thanks mate. Yes, I meant to talk about the static issue. Presumably if it's sat on the ground it will be self earthing 🤔
Another excellent video
Thanks Garviel 👊🏻
@CharlieDIYte Do you know what the drill bit you used to enlarge the hole is called? I'd love to get one of those. Thanks.
Thanks for this vid. I bought a drum cheaper than the one in the vid as the big dug has doubled in price since this video was made. Sadly it crumpled like a coke can on the first use 😂 off to buy the big dug one now. Will I ever learn?!
Hi Charlie, thank you for showing your upgrade. I bought one drum for my vacuum cleaner in my shed that I use to collect dust & wood shavings when I use my Circular Saw/Planer/Router/etc., but as the hoover fills up so quick and to ask my better half to empty for me. I am disabled, so woodworking is just something I do to keep myself occupied and hobbyist DIYer. So, simple jobs seems too much at times, so I made (and making) various jigs to help me. I was wondering do you think I should get the pressure release valve as well for just to be on the same side? Please let me know.
I will upload some videos of all the jigs I am making with the help from you all PRO UA-camrs here on YT (Obviously). I believe, "Our World is a Shared Experience"... Remember *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* ... 🖖 Thank you....
Hi Dawid, yes the valve just gives you peace of mind that the drum isn't going to implode. 👊
Hi Charlie I have fitted valve to the same plastic bin as yours, however bin is still collapsing? Any ideas I am using a 1200 watt SIP dust extractor, could it be too powerful>???
I guess previous collapses have weakened it too much. Have you adjusted the spring to its weakest setting? Maybe get a new metal drum and add the valve to that.
Amazon were sold out so got it from their website even with postage was only about 70p more so still very cheap to stop the barrell collapsing.
Well done. Yes, it's pretty efficient getting it from the website. 👍
I still wince watching anyone use sandpaper directly pressed on with their fingers to go over the edges of metal sheet: a few years ago I did just this, but the metal sliced straight through the paper and cut all 4 of my fingers that were pressing on quite deep! Be careful doing that!
Yikes. Good point Cliff 😬
I was doing the same having done the same!
@@CharlieDIYte Wrap the paper around some off cut broom handle or the like. Also worth buying a pair of cut proof gloves. Ultimate Handyman's UA-cam channel has a video on them if you search for it.
Luckily using that power file had taken off the sharp edges but I'll do that next time. 👍🏻
Nice Charlie, that marxsman ? Green spray marker helps for holes you can’t get your marker through
How small can the container be do you think. Would a 10 litre one work? Reason being I want a portable one that I can take with me on jobs.
The thing is if you go too small you might as well just rely on the vacuum's own drum. Cyclones are kinds of meant to be used in a static environment attached to a shop vac. That metal drum I'm using isn't too big though.
@@CharlieDIYte you think maybe 15 litres might be the minimum? I think the triton one I have is 20l. It's awful for air leakage around the lid which is a shame because it could be really really good.
Great Job buddy
Thanks 👍
Hi Charlie,
I’m building a cyclone vac like yours using a cheapo wet vac and the cyclone you suggested.
Given the storm rain last night, and my now flooded garage, I wondered if it would separate water, instead of dust, into the bucket. Have you tried sucking up water with yours?
Thanks.
Great content BTW!
Thanks 👊 Hi there. It's an interesting question that. Honest answer is I don't know but you'd want to take out any hepa filter as I suspect this would be ruined if used in wet mode.
Hey @charlie any tips on fitting tongue and groove to an exiting ceiling (artex). Tongue and groove you scream. Before you start that its Dird Basil and I'm going for a provincial country feel with some finishing touches. I thought adhesive but it needs to hand and will pall off. Now I am thinking adhesive and small dry wall screws into the exiting lathes. Making a feature of them and or putting thin strips over to span the room criss cross decorative, and or doing criss cross and cutting the pin at 45 degree angles to fill the spaces like a marque but not. It will be the wood panelled ceilings of ceilings. I just have to attach the buggers
What I would do is what my mate Gerard did in this vid bit.ly/2TSnz3v Bash a few holes in the ceiling like Gerard did, periodically to find out exactly where the joists are. Doesn't matter you're making a mess because the T&G will cover it up. Buy a chalk line and ping it across the ceiling to mark each joist, and then attach each plank with tongue-tite screws like I did in this video bit.ly/2MLnWGH That way the screws will be hidden, and the ceiling totally secure. You'll get into a terrible mess if you try and glue it. 👍🏻
Is it positive to use as fireplace ash collecting?? Did someone try it?
I have a different barrel and found a large steel waste paper bin that drops almost perfectly inside. Also, the weight stops it falling over.
You should put a fill alarm on the new drum. It will save you from opening it up many times to look inside to see how full it is...
DIY should involve a traffic cone to make cyclone! But hey ho we all have different interpretations. Enjoy you YT product