Check below for time stamps and important links. This is a long one.... 00:00 Intro 00:33 Why a sump is beneficial 02:20 Normal sump set up 04:52 Filter Socks 06:07 Biogravel 08:15 Ceramic Rings (Chinese) 08:59 Sump Plate 09:58 More Chinese muck... 10:07 Pumice Block 11:03 White Pumice / Lava Rock 12:20 Biohome Ultra 13:03 Biohome Maxi Ultimate 13:25 Biohome Maxi Ultimate Marine 14:13 Shower Media / Supergravel 14:46 Alfagrog 15:40 Eheim Substrat Pro 16:14 Biohome Sump Brick 17:05 How are they still selling this crap? 18:12 K1 / K1 Micro Moving Bed Media 19:24 Gel Filter Starter Balls 20:29 Chemical Filtration 22:36 Final Chamber 22:58 Heater 1 23:26 Heater 2 23:48 Protein Skimmer 26:02 Outro Product Links: Biohome, Biogravel, Sump Bricks, Foams, Pumice, K1 etc. www.filterpro.co.uk Filter Socks: geni.us/XnWA8k Sump Plate: geni.us/N0ABQHw You know, the thing: geni.us/ZbA2 Pumice Block (no good as a filter media but good for cleaning a BBQ grill...) geni.us/OTRowc5 Alfagrog 15kg: geni.us/Il899 Alfagrog 2kg: geni.us/Xkf9 Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/Ikh3ld RP Ammonia Remover: ebay.us/lZ5Llf RP Nitrate Remover: ebay.us/gZ695R Aquarium heaters...It's a minefield so go for something decent like Eheim: ebay.us/frawnM Protein Skimmer example (another minefield): ebay.us/KTlX8p Sump Pump example (another minefield): ebay.us/Yaa2to The best video to complement this one is titled 'Looking Inside Filter Media' where I use a microscope to show what makes a good or poor choice for filter media: ua-cam.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/v-deo.html Sorry, I'm more or less shadow-banned from my own channel so UA-cam doesn't send me any notifications of comments or new uploads from channels I've subscribed to - if you want to get hold of me to ask anything it's best to use the phone - 07772848730 FILMING EQUIPMENT: Panasonic HC-VX870 HD camcorder geni.us/3UwE +Rode stereo microphone: geni.us/4OL +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover: geni.us/1pmn JVC Everio quad proof HD camcorder: geni.us/e09e +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover (opened up and held between tripod and camera base) geni.us/dee24 Zomei Z666 tripod: geni.us/1a1af3 Manfrotto MTPIXI-B PIXI mini tripod: geni.us/87f7 If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects. Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching. Upload this to your own channel if you want to - just leave the video description intact please. See you next time. Pondguru (Richard)
@@quantumsneak1773 I always recommend API stress coat as I've never heard of anyone having problems maturing a filter while using that one and it is very popular. Basically as long as you avoid any dechlorinators claiming to remove / bind ammonia, nitrate or nitrate you're good.
MOST informative video I have watched on you tube so far on how a sump actually works. Straight to the point without the boring nonsense and life stories. Very informative explanation. Super! Thank you! Amazing job sir.
I have my uses but there are definitely many more (better) channels out there - this has always been a hobby for me and always will be but it's still something I enjoy doing even after all these years on UA-cam.
Thank you for taking the time to go over each step and product for building a great sump. This is the best video that I have seen to help me with my first ever sump.
Glad I could help but I reckon I go into too much detail for UA-cam since most people now have a very short attention span. Well done for having a good attention span - it really makes a difference for information processing and understanding.
Good timing Richard, I’m right in the middle of setting up a DIY sump for my 210 gal. One point I picked up from the reefing community (BRS)- Never put the heater in the final pump compartment. If the overflow gets blocked or if there is a lot of evaporation (common with sumps without an ATO), the pump chamber will run dry and that heater will malfunction and possibly catch fire and/or melt an acrylic sump. Hope things are getting back to normal in the UK. Be well.
@@stevendiaz2257 Middle compartment that will remain full (to the top of the glass wall) when the tank overflow becomes blocked or evaporation has lowered the waterline below the weir (cut-outs in the overflow). The pump will empty out it's compartment and if the heater is in there you will get a melt down.
That is a very good point which I overlooked and as the final transit to the pump chamber is over the top that is where the water loss will be expressed so the heater should indeed be one chamber back. With regard to getting back to normal in the UK we have no chance of that as the people behind this nonsense are going all-in to destroy our country. It is like what Cuomo and Newsom have done to parts of the US x10. We certainly live in interesting times, lol
Great video but there I see one problem - it's best to not install a heater next to the return pump, because it's the only part of the sump that may get dry. Which would mean running the heater dry.
(my other channel) That's a great point and without an automatic top-up (which all sumps should have) the heater is better placed in the second to last chamber as you've suggested. Sorry, I forgot to mention an auto-top up since I never plan what I'm going to say in any of my videos.
Thank u so much. I know nothing about a sump pump, but i ordered a 125 gallon aquarium that has holes pre drilled (i will definitely figure it out i said lol). I always wanted one anyways in case i wanted salt water. Your video was very informative, n i love how u explain the purpose of one in the beginning:). I will probably put just enough water at first to make sure nothing is leaking lol
Fantastic video as always Richard I always point other fishkeepers in your direction, since I discovered your videos, and your biohome media about 4 years ago I have never had any trouble in my tanks reguarding water quality or fish health, no fish deaths no problems with the fish where as before I was always having to treat them with meds for something, cure one prob another crops up. But since watching your videos and learning how to set the filter up properly, and using the bio home media the fish haven't even flicked/flashed they have been spot on for 4 years straight now and the tanks cycle is super strong now I just swapped out the gravel in one of my tanks that has about 5kg of bio home in the filter and it didnt even twitch the water parameters, in any other tank that would be an instant crash!
Great Video Pondguru... But I would advise people not to put the Heater in the same section as the pump.. As if there is a drain issue or power outage the pump could leave the heater dry causing heater failure.. Great advise on what media to use..
I made something you might like. I started building my own invisible filters with a twist. I got a large sponge filter reccomended for upto 300l then I got loads of lava rock and carefully glued it all the way around the sponge. So my theory is after enough time has passed and the sponge is all clogged the slow flow of the sponge drawing through the lava rock enables the nitrate cycle. I have a canister on the same tank. While I should get round to testing the water I still havnt because I set this up on a tank I setup at my mums house. Anyway 8 months in and her tank has gone from 4 kribensis and 2 turtles to about 100 kribs and 2 large turtles. No issues whatsoever on a tank that is a little neglected because I'm the only one to do anything to it.
The water level looks like its a bit high on the 1st chamber not allowing much room for overflow when the pump is switched off , but for a smaller style sump it looks good 👌👍, that's the basics covered lol , wtf he's a fountain of easy listening knowledge and very comprehensive
Great video chief, clear and concise, and fantastically informative. I watched a few 'US' takes on this, and just couldn't follow what they were saying, they seem so intent on being 'cool and entertaining', keep jumping from subject to subject, and always start with, WOTS UP UA-camRS! Thank you, liked and subbed.
No worries and I'm glad the videos were useful as I put them out to help. I will never say "Wots up UA-camrs" - you have my word on that. Also I will never go onto Google and put in a search t erm then make a video based on the top 3 results like 99% of 'UA-camrs' do. I do not consider myself a 'UA-camr' or an 'Influencer' since things are either true or they are not and no amount of money will get me to sell my soul and parrot some crap from a company wanting me to be their 'ambassador'. That is pure horse shit and not for this channel. Welcome aboard. P.S. I will never be cool or entertaining, lol
Very interesting.. i used seachem purigen for 2 years on my 9ft cichlid tank. Always recharged it with bleached but then had it sat in a bath of water/seachem prime for a day before adding back to the tank.. never had any problems
For the price it’s just easier to buy new again!!!all it takes is for you to leave the littlest of bleach on the stuff by mistake and bang everything dead…
one of my favourite medias atm is the boxtech aquarium filter media off amazon £30 for a 5L bag and it absorbs amazingly i tested it out they way you did with food colouring and its very good..
The filter media won't affect the fish that way unless it is in a biorb or similar tank where fish can damage themselves directly on sharp media like alfagrog but a treatment like Melafix is great for cloudy eyes.
always enjoy your videos. been watching for a while but usually not logged in, but finally subscribed. have a question that i can't find and answer for. understand the order of mechanical, then bio, and last chem in media order but what about the order of bio. have a sump that i am fed up with and gonna rebuild. currently using k1 and it is very effective but my nitrates are always high. although the plants outside love the when i do a water change, looking to incorporate some anaerobic media. the question is should the anaerobic media come before the k1 or after? i've spent a lot of time trying to rationalize the ratio on most products i've seen; wondering how so little would be so effective, but after watching your video i'm assuming the more the better, but with the amount of air i pump into the sump for the k1, i'm wondering if placement would even matter.
Ideally every pump which is moving water through a filter would operate 24/7 since the bacteria living inside the filter (foams and media) wants to be exposed to as much 'food' as possible. When a filter runs 24/7 it creates much more stable water conditions.
Another nice informative video Richard. One question how do you prevent the tank draining into the lower sump and making a catastrophe? Is there an air inlet along the way to aid this?
The Tank overflows into the sump so will only feed back to the sump when the pump is working. As soon as the pump is turned off the tank does not overflow any more so the sump can't overflow. As long as the last compartment in the sump has enough capacity for the small amount of water which will overflow from the tank and other sections of the sump it will be fine. Hope that makes sense.
pondguru could you please make a video about upgrading the Amtra filtering box 150? It has some really wide intake holes that could potentially suck in fry and I can’t find any way of prefiltering to stop this!
Hey mate, I am very keen to find out where you can buy the rippled bio foam mats. I am in Australia and am finding it very difficult to source them. You use them in most of your videos, and I am very keen to get them into my canister :) - and thank you for the amazing videos. They have been extremely helpful
(my other channel) Mostly fr marine, yes. However if you have large freshwater fish eating high protein food or is they are messy feeders (e.g. Piranha) a protein skimmer can be useful.
Hi Scott! Because Richard wrote above, he hardly receives any comments and feedback from YT, I like to give you the answer, if you don't mind :-) The biological filter media is made by Biohome. You can purchase it at filterpro.co.uk Cheers, Dieter
That is the Biohome Maxi Marine - The link in video description takes you to my site (FilterPro) www.filterpro.co.uk and if you're not in the UK just click your nearest country flag at the top of any page for your local main distributor.
I just need to ask a basic question…How can oxygenated water suddenly get deoxygenated inside the sump while it pass through the biohome media…The water will ofcourse have dissolved oxygen in it along with dissolved nitrates that reach the bacteria inside and as water has oxygen how can anaerobic bacteria grown in it
I am setting up my biocube to a freshwater tank. I want to use Biohome Ultimate Filter Media in it. How and where do I put it or how do I set up my biocube as far as a sump? thank you very much
Could I do a video on a sump for a 5' tank? I don't have my shop now so I only have access to whatever I have lying around or whenever people send me as part of the PImp My Filter series of videos. The set up is basically the same for all filters - Mechanical to Biological to Chemical and a sump offers way more filtration that you'll ever need.
Hi Pondguru, I am planning to get a 5ft tank, i am getting a 5ft trickle shower filter with 4 layers of boxes. After watching this video i am thinking of changing my plan to build a sump tank instead due as it seems neater and can hold much more filter media. Planning to fill my aquarium with goldfish btw. in terms filtering capability and efficiency, which type would you recommend? also in removing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, Trickle vs sump? And also the ease of maintenance, i believe trickle would be easier? because sump u have to tank out all the stuff inside to clean the tank where as trickle u can open the trays which is smaller and easier to clean. Really not sure if i should go with sump or trickle... help....
The size of the tank and what you're putting in it will dictate the size of the pump(s) in the sump and I don't know of any formula to work that out. If you have a decent sized tank 200-300 litres and would normally go for a 1500 lph canister filter pick a sump pump which will shift a similar amount.
(my other channel) That would work no problem - it can either go before or after the biological media - I just has it before since I was working with a small sump and it was not as easy to get clear water around the skimmer in that scenario.
Yes, I couldn't remember the name as I have so many products for other hobbies from similar sounding manufacturers but I linked to it in the video description. I remembered the name just after I cleared all the gear away after filming the video, lol
It is a special pump designed for use in hydroponic growing systems. The air is dragged in and shredded into tiny bubbles by the impeller then spat out as a 'fizzy' water jet. They are available in 320 lph and 450 lph versions - I have them on the FilterPro site and they're available from places which sell hydroponics gear too.
If acrylic was more widely used the price would surely come down but glass is readily available and easy to work with so the price is way lower. Making sumps from acrylic would definitely make sense since a glass sump is so heavy compared to acrylic. Acrylic is so easy to drill and alter too compared to glass.
I’d ask how to send a filter to you to fill. But I live in the US. So how would you fill a sicce whale canister filter? Or can you do a video showing it? I’m considering upgrading my tank and will need to upgrade my filter from an internal one and am considering a canister filter.
(my other channel) While acoustic and furniture foam would work to strain out particles from the water the foam sold for indoor (dry) use is treated with flame retardant chemicals so is not suitable for use in aquariums or ponds. The proper aquarium / pond foam is not treated with anything so is safe for fish.
It will be supporting aerobic bacteria and if it is 6 months old or older it will be well set up with bacteria. It's certainly not something you need unless the other filtration on the tank is minimal.
Due to the limited size, compact nature of the sump it would probably only service a 200-300 litre tank. Ideally a sump would be longer than this but the sump in this video was from a foot spa so needed to be very compact.
It is very hit-and-miss with the 'matrix' - sometimes it is mostly good quality and sometimes it is very poor and filled with grey rock and obsidian which isn't much good as a filter media. The unfortunate thing is that the base cost of good quality white pumice is pennies more than the lower grades so I can't understand why they don't pick the better grade which is so obviously better than the variable stuff they supply. Surely the profits on it can't be worth the lives of fish?
Yes, and that's how the majority of shop systems are set up. Ideally you'd have a UV fitted in the sump or in the return pipe from the pump to the tanks to prevent cross-contamination between the tanks. If you're operating a sump on a single tank there is no need for a UV.
@pondguru thanks for your reply. I would like to watch a video on this. Could you share a video with me where a similar sort of setup is being used. It would be a lot more helpful for me before I build the setup.
@@rohithricky8275 There are a nation of videos online showing sump set ups but it is no substitute to seeing what different systems shops have set up. I'm assuming that you will be stocking the tanks with fish, plants or corals so at some point you'll have to visit a shop to pick that stock. Visit several shops and ask them to show you their sump filters and how they are linked to multiple tanks - you'll get a good idea of the fittings, pump, UV, lighting etc. etc. which you could probably see in several videos but that is nowhere near as useful as seeing the systems in person. Shop staff or owners will be all too happy to show you their systems and talk through your proposals.
The reduction of nitrate in a fish only system when using the biohome is down to anaerobic activity inside the media and that only happens in a 'normal' filter set up when the structure of the media allows for anaerobic activity (slow flow zones / dead ends inside the media). If you've got a specific test in mind just let me know no worries.
The media in the bags is the Biogravel - it's basically a gravel shaped form of Biohome so it's perfect for bacteria to grow on / in and has a very good accessible surface area.
Please do not ever put your heater in the same area as your output pump. You are asking for trouble if that area ever dried up for whatever reason. Always keep your heater in the middle section where there is always going to be water no matter what happens.
That is a good point which a few other people have pointed out - I always used to have auto-top up systems on ponds, sumps etc. so I neglected to mention that.
If you use charcoal it would go towards the end of the filter so that the order was Mechanical, Biological then Chemical (Charcoal is classed as 'chemical' media).
Sometimes it is good and often it is mediocre, sometimes it is 50/50 decent and no good - it's just so variable and I can't work out why they don't buy a good grade of pumice as it would cost pennies more per kilo. I probably just answered my own thought there....
Definitely - but have you ever broken one down to see what is in it? It's like all the litter from a building site has been swept up and formed into a block, lol
@@pondguru Cut one in half with a saw they are very uniform without all the matter as you suggest, I have been looking into this as a cheap media for my sump. My only concern atm is the longevity of structure. Celcon light blocks go buy one and try it. I would love to see your views on these as they are so cheap and maybe an alternative to those who can not afford your bio home media
@@DiscusRussell The lighter the block the better they are for sure. I have some here which certainly look the part but since they are held together with lime based materials they would need soaking for months to make them safe for use in a sump. I'd be well up for hearing back if / when you try one and see how it goes.
I agree I never understood why anybody ever thought it would be safe to use bleach in your aquarium or media that houses living creatures and living bacteria. Let's be real bleach kills bacteria on surfaces, it contains chlorine we use chlorine remover for a tap water so it don't kill our fish. So why would you think it's safe to use on anything that's in your aquarium or your aquarium itself.. when the goal of our hobby is to grow living bacteria so we can keep our living fish alive in our boxes of water, or we could just dump some poison in there to clean it LOL not really, bad idea. Say for alternative easier to rinse off his vinegar.
Check below for time stamps and important links. This is a long one....
00:00 Intro
00:33 Why a sump is beneficial
02:20 Normal sump set up
04:52 Filter Socks
06:07 Biogravel
08:15 Ceramic Rings (Chinese)
08:59 Sump Plate
09:58 More Chinese muck...
10:07 Pumice Block
11:03 White Pumice / Lava Rock
12:20 Biohome Ultra
13:03 Biohome Maxi Ultimate
13:25 Biohome Maxi Ultimate Marine
14:13 Shower Media / Supergravel
14:46 Alfagrog
15:40 Eheim Substrat Pro
16:14 Biohome Sump Brick
17:05 How are they still selling this crap?
18:12 K1 / K1 Micro Moving Bed Media
19:24 Gel Filter Starter Balls
20:29 Chemical Filtration
22:36 Final Chamber
22:58 Heater 1
23:26 Heater 2
23:48 Protein Skimmer
26:02 Outro
Product Links:
Biohome, Biogravel, Sump Bricks, Foams, Pumice, K1 etc. www.filterpro.co.uk
Filter Socks: geni.us/XnWA8k
Sump Plate: geni.us/N0ABQHw
You know, the thing: geni.us/ZbA2
Pumice Block (no good as a filter media but good for cleaning a BBQ grill...) geni.us/OTRowc5
Alfagrog 15kg: geni.us/Il899
Alfagrog 2kg: geni.us/Xkf9
Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/Ikh3ld
RP Ammonia Remover: ebay.us/lZ5Llf
RP Nitrate Remover: ebay.us/gZ695R
Aquarium heaters...It's a minefield so go for something decent like Eheim: ebay.us/frawnM
Protein Skimmer example (another minefield): ebay.us/KTlX8p
Sump Pump example (another minefield): ebay.us/Yaa2to
The best video to complement this one is titled 'Looking Inside Filter Media' where I use a microscope to show what makes a good or poor choice for filter media: ua-cam.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/v-deo.html
Sorry, I'm more or less shadow-banned from my own channel so UA-cam doesn't send me any notifications of comments or new uploads from channels I've subscribed to - if you want to get hold of me to ask anything it's best to use the phone - 07772848730
FILMING EQUIPMENT:
Panasonic HC-VX870 HD camcorder geni.us/3UwE
+Rode stereo microphone: geni.us/4OL
+Rode 'deadcat' mic cover: geni.us/1pmn
JVC Everio quad proof HD camcorder: geni.us/e09e
+Rode 'deadcat' mic cover (opened up and held between tripod and camera base) geni.us/dee24
Zomei Z666 tripod: geni.us/1a1af3
Manfrotto MTPIXI-B PIXI mini tripod: geni.us/87f7
If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects.
Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching.
Upload this to your own channel if you want to - just leave the video description intact please.
See you next time.
Pondguru (Richard)
Can you recommend some dechlorinators please.
I can't find just plain dechlorinators, they all say they stop metals too :(
@@quantumsneak1773 I always recommend API stress coat as I've never heard of anyone having problems maturing a filter while using that one and it is very popular. Basically as long as you avoid any dechlorinators claiming to remove / bind ammonia, nitrate or nitrate you're good.
Hi. Thanks for this, the timing couldn't be better as I am about to sump a 450l. I always rate your advice highly. Thanks.
@@nospoon4799 No worries and best of luck with the tank.
MOST informative video I have watched on you tube so far on how a sump actually works. Straight to the point without the boring nonsense and life stories. Very informative explanation. Super! Thank you! Amazing job sir.
Don't sell yourself short, You are excellent at what you do.
I have my uses but there are definitely many more (better) channels out there - this has always been a hobby for me and always will be but it's still something I enjoy doing even after all these years on UA-cam.
humble i like that
Thank you for taking the time to go over each step and product for building a great sump. This is the best video that I have seen to help me with my first ever sump.
I'm glad that the video was helpful for you - thanks for watching and best of luck with the tank.
A favorite aquarium channel but that "you know the thing" bit puts you in pure gold status . 🏆👍
To be fair any speech from that clown could be clipped for comedy effect, lol
your the best nobody explains it in detail like you. they all leave you asking questions still. Thank you i have a much better understanding now.
Glad I could help but I reckon I go into too much detail for UA-cam since most people now have a very short attention span.
Well done for having a good attention span - it really makes a difference for information processing and understanding.
Good timing Richard, I’m right in the middle of setting up a DIY sump for my 210 gal. One point I picked up from the reefing community (BRS)- Never put the heater in the final pump compartment. If the overflow gets blocked or if there is a lot of evaporation (common with sumps without an ATO), the pump chamber will run dry and that heater will malfunction and possibly catch fire and/or melt an acrylic sump.
Hope things are getting back to normal in the UK. Be well.
So where do you recommend to place the heater? I’m thinking of building one
@@stevendiaz2257 Middle compartment that will remain full (to the top of the glass wall) when the tank overflow becomes blocked or evaporation has lowered the waterline below the weir (cut-outs in the overflow). The pump will empty out it's compartment and if the heater is in there you will get a melt down.
That is a very good point which I overlooked and as the final transit to the pump chamber is over the top that is where the water loss will be expressed so the heater should indeed be one chamber back.
With regard to getting back to normal in the UK we have no chance of that as the people behind this nonsense are going all-in to destroy our country. It is like what Cuomo and Newsom have done to parts of the US x10.
We certainly live in interesting times, lol
I've just ordered my first sumped aquarium. I'm upgrading my 5foot tank and joining the big boys 🤣. This is super helpful!
Perfect timing as I am just about to turn a salt water tank I bought second hand into a tropical tank.
Informative as ever
Good stuff and best of luck with the changes.
Another great video from the
GURU. Great to watch all on point.
Great video but there I see one problem - it's best to not install a heater next to the return pump, because it's the only part of the sump that may get dry. Which would mean running the heater dry.
(my other channel) That's a great point and without an automatic top-up (which all sumps should have) the heater is better placed in the second to last chamber as you've suggested.
Sorry, I forgot to mention an auto-top up since I never plan what I'm going to say in any of my videos.
Amazing video mate thank you! Have always had canisters and now upgrading to a 10x2.5x2.5 with my first sump. Appreciated!
Thank u so much. I know nothing about a sump pump, but i ordered a 125 gallon aquarium that has holes pre drilled (i will definitely figure it out i said lol). I always wanted one anyways in case i wanted salt water. Your video was very informative, n i love how u explain the purpose of one in the beginning:). I will probably put just enough water at first to make sure nothing is leaking lol
(my other channel) Good one - I'm glad you found the video useful and best of luck with the tank.
Media brick is awesome. Been running it in my sump now for almost 1year. Always purchase your media products. Keep up the good work
Nice one and I'm glad it's working well for you. Have a good Christmas.
This video is awesome. ive watched so may videos debating if i want to set one up, but this one put it nice and straight forward
Keeps my 20 gal tank between 76° F& 77° F 24/7. I like it!
Fantastic video as always Richard I always point other fishkeepers in your direction, since I discovered your videos, and your biohome media about 4 years ago I have never had any trouble in my tanks reguarding water quality or fish health, no fish deaths no problems with the fish where as before I was always having to treat them with meds for something, cure one prob another crops up.
But since watching your videos and learning how to set the filter up properly, and using the bio home media the fish haven't even flicked/flashed they have been spot on for 4 years straight now and the tanks cycle is super strong now I just swapped out the gravel in one of my tanks that has about 5kg of bio home in the filter and it didnt even twitch the water parameters, in any other tank that would be an instant crash!
Awesome to hear that and I'm glad it's going well for you. Filtration is everything.
Great Video Pondguru... But I would advise people not to put the Heater in the same section as the pump.. As if there is a drain issue or power outage the pump could leave the heater dry causing heater failure.. Great advise on what media to use..
Great video as usual. The older you get the more you regret not setting up more sumpfiltryers instead of cannisters. 😃
For sure - the first few times you maintain a canister it is novel and relatively quick then it soon becomes a hassle, lol
I made something you might like.
I started building my own invisible filters with a twist. I got a large sponge filter reccomended for upto 300l then I got loads of lava rock and carefully glued it all the way around the sponge. So my theory is after enough time has passed and the sponge is all clogged the slow flow of the sponge drawing through the lava rock enables the nitrate cycle. I have a canister on the same tank. While I should get round to testing the water I still havnt because I set this up on a tank I setup at my mums house.
Anyway 8 months in and her tank has gone from 4 kribensis and 2 turtles to about 100 kribs and 2 large turtles.
No issues whatsoever on a tank that is a little neglected because I'm the only one to do anything to it.
Sounds good to me, man.
your explanatory is very comprehensive!!!
GREAT JOB!!👏🏻
The water level looks like its a bit high on the 1st chamber not allowing much room for overflow when the pump is switched off , but for a smaller style sump it looks good 👌👍, that's the basics covered lol , wtf he's a fountain of easy listening knowledge and very comprehensive
11:24 about made me choke on my water...wasn't expecting that at all!!
I was gong to work the 'hairy legs' quote in too but I'll save that for another video.
Great video chief, clear and concise, and fantastically informative.
I watched a few 'US' takes on this, and just couldn't follow what they were saying, they seem so intent on being 'cool and entertaining', keep jumping from subject to subject, and always start with, WOTS UP UA-camRS!
Thank you, liked and subbed.
No worries and I'm glad the videos were useful as I put them out to help.
I will never say "Wots up UA-camrs" - you have my word on that.
Also I will never go onto Google and put in a search t erm then make a video based on the top 3 results like 99% of 'UA-camrs' do. I do not consider myself a 'UA-camr' or an 'Influencer' since things are either true or they are not and no amount of money will get me to sell my soul and parrot some crap from a company wanting me to be their 'ambassador'.
That is pure horse shit and not for this channel.
Welcome aboard.
P.S. I will never be cool or entertaining, lol
Very interesting.. i used seachem purigen for 2 years on my 9ft cichlid tank. Always recharged it with bleached but then had it sat in a bath of water/seachem prime for a day before adding back to the tank.. never had any problems
For the price it’s just easier to buy new again!!!all it takes is for you to leave the littlest of bleach on the stuff by mistake and bang everything dead…
It would have been so helpful to see the thing in action to see where it's placed in relation to the tank etc.
Agreed! Would love to see it work!
😃👍
Best vid I have seen so far regarding a Sump! Thank you. New sub!
Hi.Great instructive video.Thank you so much.👍🇵🇷✌🐟
(my other channel) No worries, I'm glad you found it useful - thanks for watching.
one of my favourite medias atm is the boxtech aquarium filter media off amazon £30 for a 5L bag and it absorbs amazingly i tested it out they way you did with food colouring and its very good..
You were amazing at explaining! Thank you!
I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.
Your a very likable fella Richard.
Excellent video, thanks for posting.
The Maxspect’s Nano-Tech Bio-Blocks gets very good reviews. They work best if placed vertically as absorbs water better
Haha glad your keeping an eye on foreign affairs. I use alfagrog, could that be causing my goldfish opaque eye?
The filter media won't affect the fish that way unless it is in a biorb or similar tank where fish can damage themselves directly on sharp media like alfagrog but a treatment like Melafix is great for cloudy eyes.
NEVER put the heater in the return chamber. Without an ATO or with an ATO malfunction. That's the first chamber to go low.
Great video, thank you very much and the accent makes me hit the subscribe button right away
Excellent Mr Guru 👍
I'm glad you found it useful - thanks for watching.
always enjoy your videos. been watching for a while but usually not logged in, but finally subscribed. have a question that i can't find and answer for. understand the order of mechanical, then bio, and last chem in media order but what about the order of bio. have a sump that i am fed up with and gonna rebuild. currently using k1 and it is very effective but my nitrates are always high. although the plants outside love the when i do a water change, looking to incorporate some anaerobic media. the question is should the anaerobic media come before the k1 or after? i've spent a lot of time trying to rationalize the ratio on most products i've seen; wondering how so little would be so effective, but after watching your video i'm assuming the more the better, but with the amount of air i pump into the sump for the k1, i'm wondering if placement would even matter.
Great video Ritch 👍👍
Glad you found it useful.
How’d that go when the stone sucked up the blue water? 😊 Thank you for a very informative video.
Started with external, moved on to sumps and returned to external... ;-) freshwater this is!
Great video. Thank you.
Where to buy the small balls extreemly porus)? Thx.
If that was the Biogravel then it is on my website www.filterpro.co.uk
Hi,
Can u please make a video on Dymax Bio- glass media ? They claim the porosity of the media as close to loose soil and perfect for denitrification.
How long per day should have to run the sump pump. There is sponge filter running all day.
Ideally every pump which is moving water through a filter would operate 24/7 since the bacteria living inside the filter (foams and media) wants to be exposed to as much 'food' as possible.
When a filter runs 24/7 it creates much more stable water conditions.
From my understanding, K1 media, and especially the micro one, is supposed to be very effective
I like that filter media nice to see you mate
No worries and I'm glad you found it useful.
Another nice informative video Richard. One question how do you prevent the tank draining into the lower sump and making a catastrophe? Is there an air inlet along the way to aid this?
The Tank overflows into the sump so will only feed back to the sump when the pump is working. As soon as the pump is turned off the tank does not overflow any more so the sump can't overflow.
As long as the last compartment in the sump has enough capacity for the small amount of water which will overflow from the tank and other sections of the sump it will be fine.
Hope that makes sense.
@@pondguru Thank you. Makes sense Richard. So the main tank must have a hole drilled to allow for pipework to enable it to overflow, correct?
@@ironix1 Yes there would be a hole drilled in the bottom of the tank and that would have a riser pipe fitted up to the water level.
The best sump filter is a fluidized k-1 sump
pondguru could you please make a video about upgrading the Amtra filtering box 150? It has some really wide intake holes that could potentially suck in fry and I can’t find any way of prefiltering to stop this!
Great information thanks for sharing ✌️💗💯👍
No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful,
Can we get an update on the bid pond and big filter I'm really interested in that.
He already have, he changed it 😁
Hey mate, I am very keen to find out where you can buy the rippled bio foam mats. I am in Australia and am finding it very difficult to source them. You use them in most of your videos, and I am very keen to get them into my canister :) - and thank you for the amazing videos. They have been extremely helpful
Never used a protein skimmer. I always thought it was something used strictly in a marine system.
(my other channel) Mostly fr marine, yes. However if you have large freshwater fish eating high protein food or is they are messy feeders (e.g. Piranha) a protein skimmer can be useful.
Great video, legend of the Koi game 👍
wow dude been so long i forgot all about it lol!!! great setup's man!!
Sorry for taking so long with it, man - if you ever want it back it's here no worries.
Hay, could you do a review on the eden 501, its a small cheap external canister filter
Thanks for the info...
Again, another great video Pondguru.
Glad you liked it!
Good info, thank you!
😃👍
Loved this video mate. Could be because I have a marine tank. Any idea where I could get some of that media the 3 types one was marine. ?
Hi Scott! Because Richard wrote above, he hardly receives any comments and feedback from YT, I like to give you the answer, if you don't mind :-) The biological filter media is made by Biohome. You can purchase it at filterpro.co.uk
Cheers, Dieter
That is the Biohome Maxi Marine - The link in video description takes you to my site (FilterPro) www.filterpro.co.uk and if you're not in the UK just click your nearest country flag at the top of any page for your local main distributor.
Could you do a review of the AquaEl BioCeraMAX 1600 biomedia. It's fairly new to the market and I can't find any real reviews and comparisons on it
I just need to ask a basic question…How can oxygenated water suddenly get deoxygenated inside the sump while it pass through the biohome media…The water will ofcourse have dissolved oxygen in it along with dissolved nitrates that reach the bacteria inside and as water has oxygen how can anaerobic bacteria grown in it
I am setting up my biocube to a freshwater tank. I want to use Biohome Ultimate Filter Media in it. How and where do I put it or how do I set up my biocube as far as a sump? thank you very much
Hi mate...Could you do one for 5' discus tank please.
Could I do a video on a sump for a 5' tank?
I don't have my shop now so I only have access to whatever I have lying around or whenever people send me as part of the PImp My Filter series of videos.
The set up is basically the same for all filters - Mechanical to Biological to Chemical and a sump offers way more filtration that you'll ever need.
Hi Pondguru, I am planning to get a 5ft tank, i am getting a 5ft trickle shower filter with 4 layers of boxes. After watching this video i am thinking of changing my plan to build a sump tank instead due as it seems neater and can hold much more filter media. Planning to fill my aquarium with goldfish btw.
in terms filtering capability and efficiency, which type would you recommend? also in removing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, Trickle vs sump? And also the ease of maintenance, i believe trickle would be easier? because sump u have to tank out all the stuff inside to clean the tank where as trickle u can open the trays which is smaller and easier to clean.
Really not sure if i should go with sump or trickle... help....
So can I use the Supergravel in a sump that doesn't have a shower? Just overflow.
great video
I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.
Good morning I have a question in the sump, the sponge goes then the k1 and then the matrix or what would be the correct order for its best operation
I miss the videos about the giant pond filter
I had an update in that long gardening video I out out recently - first chapter covered the filter.
Very informative. 👍 How do you work out the pump size / flow rate for one?
The size of the tank and what you're putting in it will dictate the size of the pump(s) in the sump and I don't know of any formula to work that out. If you have a decent sized tank 200-300 litres and would normally go for a 1500 lph canister filter pick a sump pump which will shift a similar amount.
Thank you
Wouldn't the protein skimmer be better before all the bio-media? Not sure how much excess nutrient will remain after filtering through all that.
(my other channel) That would work no problem - it can either go before or after the biological media - I just has it before since I was working with a small sump and it was not as easy to get clear water around the skimmer in that scenario.
That's a maxspect brick that repels water.
Yes, I couldn't remember the name as I have so many products for other hobbies from similar sounding manufacturers but I linked to it in the video description. I remembered the name just after I cleared all the gear away after filming the video, lol
Maxspect blocks do get good reviews
This was awesome
(my other channel) I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.
Hi I saw you did a pimp my filter video for the fluval g6 could you do one for the g3?
Hi Pondguru :) is Biogravel works the same as Biohome Ultimate? Can we achieve full cycle using only Biogravel? Thanks
Are protein skimmers suitable for freshwater sumps?
Question about the waterpump your using. It seems like you modified the pump and connect a air hose. Can you explain how that works? Thanks!
It is a special pump designed for use in hydroponic growing systems. The air is dragged in and shredded into tiny bubbles by the impeller then spat out as a 'fizzy' water jet. They are available in 320 lph and 450 lph versions - I have them on the FilterPro site and they're available from places which sell hydroponics gear too.
Why're sumps made of glass though? Wouldn't they be cheaper in Acrylic?
If acrylic was more widely used the price would surely come down but glass is readily available and easy to work with so the price is way lower.
Making sumps from acrylic would definitely make sense since a glass sump is so heavy compared to acrylic. Acrylic is so easy to drill and alter too compared to glass.
What happened to the Mega filter for your pond?
You can see it in the garden video I did recently - the first chapter is about the filter.
I’d ask how to send a filter to you to fill. But I live in the US. So how would you fill a sicce whale canister filter? Or can you do a video showing it? I’m considering upgrading my tank and will need to upgrade my filter from an internal one and am considering a canister filter.
Hi, can any type of form or sponge be use in aquarium? Like the form use for sound proofing? Thanks
(my other channel) While acoustic and furniture foam would work to strain out particles from the water the foam sold for indoor (dry) use is treated with flame retardant chemicals so is not suitable for use in aquariums or ponds. The proper aquarium / pond foam is not treated with anything so is safe for fish.
Mmm, this explains a lot,,, thanks G
Happy to help
Hey pondguru!! Please make a pimp my filter edition for sunsun hw 5000 and aquaone nautilus 2700uv!! Specially the aquaone 2700uv
I will if anyone n the UK sends me one, no worries - they are 2 filters I'd definitely like to take a look at.
@@pondguru ❤️
Hi Richard, I have one of those 2 litre bottle K1 micro things in my tank. Is it doing anything beneficial? or should I get rid? Thanks.
It will be supporting aerobic bacteria and if it is 6 months old or older it will be well set up with bacteria. It's certainly not something you need unless the other filtration on the tank is minimal.
What size tank litre wise would a sump of 5his size be suitable for please
Due to the limited size, compact nature of the sump it would probably only service a 200-300 litre tank. Ideally a sump would be longer than this but the sump in this video was from a foot spa so needed to be very compact.
I understand that Seachem Matrix is not a good filter medium? :(
It is very hit-and-miss with the 'matrix' - sometimes it is mostly good quality and sometimes it is very poor and filled with grey rock and obsidian which isn't much good as a filter media.
The unfortunate thing is that the base cost of good quality white pumice is pennies more than the lower grades so I can't understand why they don't pick the better grade which is so obviously better than the variable stuff they supply. Surely the profits on it can't be worth the lives of fish?
Thanks
Can I use a single sump for two fish tanks at once?
Yes, and that's how the majority of shop systems are set up.
Ideally you'd have a UV fitted in the sump or in the return pipe from the pump to the tanks to prevent cross-contamination between the tanks.
If you're operating a sump on a single tank there is no need for a UV.
@pondguru thanks for your reply. I would like to watch a video on this. Could you share a video with me where a similar sort of setup is being used. It would be a lot more helpful for me before I build the setup.
@@rohithricky8275 There are a nation of videos online showing sump set ups but it is no substitute to seeing what different systems shops have set up.
I'm assuming that you will be stocking the tanks with fish, plants or corals so at some point you'll have to visit a shop to pick that stock.
Visit several shops and ask them to show you their sump filters and how they are linked to multiple tanks - you'll get a good idea of the fittings, pump, UV, lighting etc. etc. which you could probably see in several videos but that is nowhere near as useful as seeing the systems in person.
Shop staff or owners will be all too happy to show you their systems and talk through your proposals.
@@pondguru Thanks for the info. That would be better.
I’ve never seen anyone test media for internal water flow and anaerobic activity.
The reduction of nitrate in a fish only system when using the biohome is down to anaerobic activity inside the media and that only happens in a 'normal' filter set up when the structure of the media allows for anaerobic activity (slow flow zones / dead ends inside the media). If you've got a specific test in mind just let me know no worries.
Lovely
I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.
what is the meadia in the bags please
The media in the bags is the Biogravel - it's basically a gravel shaped form of Biohome so it's perfect for bacteria to grow on / in and has a very good accessible surface area.
Please do not ever put your heater in the same area as your output pump. You are asking for trouble if that area ever dried up for whatever reason. Always keep your heater in the middle section where there is always going to be water no matter what happens.
That is a good point which a few other people have pointed out - I always used to have auto-top up systems on ponds, sumps etc. so I neglected to mention that.
What about charcoal?
If you use charcoal it would go towards the end of the filter so that the order was Mechanical, Biological then Chemical (Charcoal is classed as 'chemical' media).
That’s a $1000. Of media in Canada lol 😳
That is a mighty high price but I did pack a ridiculous amount in this small sump.
you forgot a uv light
Low grade is matrix?
Sometimes it is good and often it is mediocre, sometimes it is 50/50 decent and no good - it's just so variable and I can't work out why they don't buy a good grade of pumice as it would cost pennies more per kilo. I probably just answered my own thought there....
Sorry i Need the name of 13kg of ball in the basket thank👍👍
(my other channel) That is the Biogravel and I have it on the FilterPro website (Biohome media page) www.filterpro.co.uk
Builders Breeze blocks soak up water
Definitely - but have you ever broken one down to see what is in it?
It's like all the litter from a building site has been swept up and formed into a block, lol
@@pondguru Cut one in half with a saw they are very uniform without all the matter as you suggest, I have been looking into this as a cheap media for my sump. My only concern atm is the longevity of structure. Celcon light blocks go buy one and try it. I would love to see your views on these as they are so cheap and maybe an alternative to those who can not afford your bio home media
@@DiscusRussell The lighter the block the better they are for sure. I have some here which certainly look the part but since they are held together with lime based materials they would need soaking for months to make them safe for use in a sump.
I'd be well up for hearing back if / when you try one and see how it goes.
I agree I never understood why anybody ever thought it would be safe to use bleach in your aquarium or media that houses living creatures and living bacteria. Let's be real bleach kills bacteria on surfaces, it contains chlorine we use chlorine remover for a tap water so it don't kill our fish. So why would you think it's safe to use on anything that's in your aquarium or your aquarium itself.. when the goal of our hobby is to grow living bacteria so we can keep our living fish alive in our boxes of water, or we could just dump some poison in there to clean it LOL not really, bad idea. Say for alternative easier to rinse off his vinegar.