at 28:00 or so, D3 is failed on the VRAM. NIIL and FAIL are similar; N -> F is +8, and I -> A is +8 also. So D3 is probably stuck high on the RAM. It isn't stuck high on the mobo (i.e. PPU, latch, etc) because you'd see vertical lines in the video. At 32:49 or so, one of the address lines appears to be shorted, open, or damaged causing the video to duplicate on the screen.
The answer to "Do we want to watch you do x, y, or z?" Is usually always yes. Troubleshooting, repairing, and testing. That's why I'm here and I've learned so much stuff just superficially watching you do mundane stuff like that, things I didn't know about because I just haven't come across those issues yet. I put your videos or EEVBlog videos on while I do other work as background noise and if something catches my interest I can easily watch you do whatever you're doing. But that's just me, I'm sure other people are here for other reasons.
Hey man i am new to your channel i stumble across one of your videos by accident watching you fix a 3ds power supply port I really enjoyed watching you fix it so quickly i just get a sense of satisfaction watching people repair things you have got yourself a new subscriber to you channel
Casual classic Gaming I have to agree with you, I stumbled across his channel 4 years ago when I saw his component video NES consoles he made before the NESRGB came out and it is very satisfying to watch these kinds of videos. I was trying to learn how to mod my SNES for component video output and that's how I found this channel. I've been subbed to it ever since.
Danny C. It is a good thing to see that old consoles can still hold up in this day and age when people like himself do this i just wish i had this sort of skills to do this because i have a master system 2 that I would like to get modified so it can output through a component this is why I enjoy videos like this
Also to answer your question at the end of the video, I really enjoy watching you actually repair stuff that doesn't work, especially front-loader stuff, because I'm in the middle of fixing one at the moment and can use all the help I can get
Hi, just wanted to say: I really appreciate your videos (not just this specific one). You also seem to be a cool guy. It is fun to watch all those trouble shooting and repair (attempt) videos. And even sometimes the little "flaws" (like leaving the Genesis on while playing around with the Sega CDs). The videos also increased my motivation to return to my little basement room and at least try to finish some of the projects on my mental list. (Some even already done by now). ;) Keep it up!
Hi, great video. I like to fix things myself. If you ever want to quickly test a chip to find out if it is good or bad, just spray the chip with nitrogen. If it is a bad chip, it will work while it is frozen. No need to take the chip out of the motherboard to test.
Just to add, It's old school but yes, reflow solder on the fingers, solder wick it and they work fine. Some really old PCB's I've worked on (not nes) didnt have soldermask, and all the traces were covered in solder to prevent oxidation. works fine.
pretty keen to see you work on those sharp nes units, seen your life get pretty hectic since the hi-def nes dropped, RGB modding commercial crt tv's seems too have been been kicking off lately
I know you also love TheGuruMeditation as much as I do too. I watched almost all of that Amiga live stream the other day, which went on for about 10 hours. lol
Another thing sellers sometimes don't realize when shipping bare PCBs is the bubblewrap they commonly use (the clear stuff) isn't anti static so you risk causing further ESD damage to the boards in shipping. Anyone who has opened a package with bubblewrap and packaging peanuts can see that the bubblewrap accumulates a pretty decent static charge that causes the peanuts to stick to it. The pink bubble wrap is static dissipative which while not perfect (if you have a static charge on you and touch it you can zap components right through the bubblewrap) it will at least not build up a static charge on it's surface.
Bubble wrap is really not that bad. EverDrives are sometimes shipped in bubble wrap. Yes, it should be in ESD bags to be completely safe, but they're not cheap, especially big ESD bags. This seller would have had to use 12 big ESD bags, upping the cost of the lot, a lot. If you want to be safe, just simply touch a grounded piece of metal before handling circuit boards and also avoid standing on carpets.
we bought RAM chips from jameco... they were remarked garbage. we had several of them explode when we put them on the board! Many of them worked but plenty didn't, and the markings rubbed off the top. Jameco wouldn't refund us either. So it's possible they sent you garbage like they sent us.
I could never get the 0.1" pitch board edge connectors to work well on my test board. I even fried one of my games using it. It would look similar to a bad PPU when the pins would line up wrong. I looked everywhere for an edge connector with the correct pitch but couldn't find one. I ended up having to sacrifice a game genie to find one.
The idea of sending out Hi-Def kits pre-installed sounds like a good idea. Maybe set something up where you work a deal with the customer to swap boards so you can salvage parts or offer a small discount only if trading in a working motherboard.
Oh damn dude I had that ad saved in my Ebay and was waiting for paypal to freaking release my funds so I could snag up a couple. Good for you though at least these boards are gonna get some much needed repair and use, I'll hope for better luck next time.
stupid question would you ever consider using clone chp replacements like umc ua6527/ua6528 in place of oryginal cpu/ppu in your restoration toploaders? they still sells them (used) on ealiexpress for 1$ a chip For repairing clone system they are great, but i wonder how you feel abut them in the oryginal systems
bridge rectifiers if they break on the one of the main diodes, it uses four, AC or DC might not find a path from source to ground. but if one of the AC side ones does fail DC could still work. as long as one positive side and one negative side diode survives DC would work and AC wouldnt. although i thought deck loading nes' ran on a DC wallwart, the rectifying is done in the wallwart. unless you can plug in 5V AC or DC into that jack. perhaps the rectifying on the NES is to prevent backwards polarity on the dc jack.
Do you have any suggestions for a meter that reads mF uF without breaking the bank? I don't have to mess with caps often but it would be nice to have a meter for when I do.
Are the AV/power modules completely interchangeable? I have an Alps module from a rev 10 board. I de-soldered it and replaced all the capacitors, and soldered it on to a different board that originally had a Mitsumi module and it still doesn't work. Before, it had a blinking light, as I tried to clean the 72 pin connector, the blinking sped up but I couldn't get a picture. Now I don't even get power. Any ideas?
Yes they are all interchangeable as far as I know. I did lots of other troubleshooting vids with the top loader that might point you in the right direction for your issue. Too hard to diagnose via messages.
NES-CPU-05, they're the earliest ones and are the best kind because they have great composite video output and the 10NES chips on them are more easily defeated by unlicensed games compared to later boards, so it's more likely for all unlicensed games with lockout chip defeat circuitry to play on the CPU-05.
Quick question i just had a nes with a flashing green screen i cleaned the whole console and disabled the 10 Nest chip what does it mean what does the green screen mean
A burned rectifier will not transmit current. That's the only scenario where passing in DC instead of AC will not work. DC input on a 7805, loves it, it doesn't care. A 9V battery should do the trick.
OK, HELP. I bought the rebuild kit and the cap kit. Perfect video. Plug in the audio rca and vid dies for good. Coax (the one that needs the grey inline box) still works. SECOND MACHINE THIS HAPPENS TO! Is there a fix or im stuck with fuzzy vid from vhf ish method?
i'm looking to convert my pal nes to ntsc and i need a pair of CPU PPU, i know a website that use to sell them at a pretty fair price but they have not been in stock for ages.. maybe i should buy some junk famicoms or something..
Well i cn't wait to see your upcoming video to fix those motherboards. While in most cases there're only minor issues,but sadly 1 is corroded here & there and sanded there wich gonne be really really hard to repair ,probably not worth unless it's a rare unique motherboard. But you can alway's swap those chips unless they're sadly fryed dead!!!!
I thought it was a joke. Don't tell me you're another one of those people that want the lockout chip intact? Ugh. It's better off non-functional in my opinion.
No, I don't care about its integrity but sometime there are boards totally without that chip and fixing that problem change from board to board. I don't know how it works for a Mattel version, so the lockout chip (any version) without the fourth pin would solve the problem immidiately.
Ah ok, my mistake. You're right, the chip does need to still be there, just have pin 4 cut. So it's not even present at all on the Mattel version? I remember there was a multi-cart with a CIC chip in it that says it does not work on the Mattel version of the NES. Is it because there's no lockout chip on it? Is there an empty socket for where it's supposed to go?
and tape itself generated tons of static when it was wrapped + can generate more when ripping off. Peeling Sticky Tape Produces X-rays, Im always worried when I receive chinese electronic junk wrapped in tons of tape :(
Bubble wrap is not full of static, it's simply not static proof from us humans. Just simply touch a grounded piece of metal (like a metal PC case) before handling circuit boards and also avoid standing on carpets.
at 28:00 or so, D3 is failed on the VRAM. NIIL and FAIL are similar; N -> F is +8, and I -> A is +8 also. So D3 is probably stuck high on the RAM. It isn't stuck high on the mobo (i.e. PPU, latch, etc) because you'd see vertical lines in the video. At 32:49 or so, one of the address lines appears to be shorted, open, or damaged causing the video to duplicate on the screen.
The answer to "Do we want to watch you do x, y, or z?" Is usually always yes. Troubleshooting, repairing, and testing. That's why I'm here and I've learned so much stuff just superficially watching you do mundane stuff like that, things I didn't know about because I just haven't come across those issues yet. I put your videos or EEVBlog videos on while I do other work as background noise and if something catches my interest I can easily watch you do whatever you're doing.
But that's just me, I'm sure other people are here for other reasons.
Hey man i am new to your channel i stumble across one of your videos by accident watching you fix a 3ds power supply port I really enjoyed watching you fix it so quickly i just get a sense of satisfaction watching people repair things you have got yourself a new subscriber to you channel
Casual classic Gaming I have to agree with you, I stumbled across his channel 4 years ago when I saw his component video NES consoles he made before the NESRGB came out and it is very satisfying to watch these kinds of videos. I was trying to learn how to mod my SNES for component video output and that's how I found this channel. I've been subbed to it ever since.
Danny C. It is a good thing to see that old consoles can still hold up in this day and age when people like himself do this i just wish i had this sort of skills to do this because i have a master system 2 that I would like to get modified so it can output through a component this is why I enjoy videos like this
Also to answer your question at the end of the video, I really enjoy watching you actually repair stuff that doesn't work, especially front-loader stuff, because I'm in the middle of fixing one at the moment and can use all the help I can get
Hi, just wanted to say: I really appreciate your videos (not just this specific one). You also seem to be a cool guy. It is fun to watch all those trouble shooting and repair (attempt) videos. And even sometimes the little "flaws" (like leaving the Genesis on while playing around with the Sega CDs). The videos also increased my motivation to return to my little basement room and at least try to finish some of the projects on my mental list. (Some even already done by now). ;)
Keep it up!
Hi, great video. I like to fix things myself. If you ever want to quickly test a chip to find out if it is good or bad, just spray the chip with nitrogen. If it is a bad chip, it will work while it is frozen. No need to take the chip out of the motherboard to test.
Just to add, It's old school but yes, reflow solder on the fingers, solder wick it and they work fine. Some really old PCB's I've worked on (not nes) didnt have soldermask, and all the traces were covered in solder to prevent oxidation. works fine.
you could resurface the contacts by dragging some flooded solder wick across all the pins.
You should do live stream of live board repair. I know people would watch you diagnose and fix these boards up in real time.
pretty keen to see you work on those sharp nes units, seen your life get pretty hectic since the hi-def nes dropped, RGB modding commercial crt tv's seems too have been been kicking off lately
Great =D We do look forward to your videos!
Man, you're like the haunter of retro channels. lol :p
LMAO =D Right back at ya! You're always there too!!!!
Weren't you on Micah's live stream as well the other day? hehe
I know you also love TheGuruMeditation as much as I do too. I watched almost all of that Amiga live stream the other day, which went on for about 10 hours. lol
GadgetUK164 ftw =D
Another thing sellers sometimes don't realize when shipping bare PCBs is the bubblewrap they commonly use (the clear stuff) isn't anti static so you risk causing further ESD damage to the boards in shipping.
Anyone who has opened a package with bubblewrap and packaging peanuts can see that the bubblewrap accumulates a pretty decent static charge that causes the peanuts to stick to it.
The pink bubble wrap is static dissipative which while not perfect (if you have a static charge on you and touch it you can zap components right through the bubblewrap) it will at least not build up a static charge on it's surface.
Bubble wrap is really not that bad. EverDrives are sometimes shipped in bubble wrap. Yes, it should be in ESD bags to be completely safe, but they're not cheap, especially big ESD bags. This seller would have had to use 12 big ESD bags, upping the cost of the lot, a lot. If you want to be safe, just simply touch a grounded piece of metal before handling circuit boards and also avoid standing on carpets.
@@DannyCD a year later but paper bags are static free and a good place to start.
we bought RAM chips from jameco... they were remarked garbage. we had several of them explode when we put them on the board! Many of them worked but plenty didn't, and the markings rubbed off the top. Jameco wouldn't refund us either. So it's possible they sent you garbage like they sent us.
If I could ask, what would cause squiggly lines on the composite video?
I could never get the 0.1" pitch board edge connectors to work well on my test board. I even fried one of my games using it. It would look similar to a bad PPU when the pins would line up wrong. I looked everywhere for an edge connector with the correct pitch but couldn't find one. I ended up having to sacrifice a game genie to find one.
+GameTechUS I just checked my nes motherboard. It's says CPU- 004. Is that rare?
I must admit that playing 'Yakkety Sax' from 5:03 to 6:05 made the unpacking pretty entertaining! :D
The idea of sending out Hi-Def kits pre-installed sounds like a good idea. Maybe set something up where you work a deal with the customer to swap boards so you can salvage parts or offer a small discount only if trading in a working motherboard.
No offense but if I only get a small discount trading in a WORKING motherboard why would I even trade it in for that discount
Don't ask! Make the videos and we will watch them!
Oh damn dude I had that ad saved in my Ebay and was waiting for paypal to freaking release my funds so I could snag up a couple. Good for you though at least these boards are gonna get some much needed repair and use, I'll hope for better luck next time.
Have you tried something like scotchbrite on the fingers?
It's interesting how the CRT displays the picture about one frame before the LCD does.
How does boot Rom 1.2 on the powerpak differ from 1.1?
stupid question
would you ever consider using clone chp replacements like umc ua6527/ua6528 in place of oryginal cpu/ppu in your restoration toploaders?
they still sells them (used) on ealiexpress for 1$ a chip
For repairing clone system they are great, but i wonder how you feel abut them in the oryginal systems
New to your videos. Loving them!! What are you testing the board's with? And how do I get one? Thanks
bridge rectifiers if they break on the one of the main diodes, it uses four, AC or DC might not find a path from source to ground. but if one of the AC side ones does fail DC could still work. as long as one positive side and one negative side diode survives DC would work and AC wouldnt. although i thought deck loading nes' ran on a DC wallwart, the rectifying is done in the wallwart. unless you can plug in 5V AC or DC into that jack. perhaps the rectifying on the NES is to prevent backwards polarity on the dc jack.
Have you ever repaired a Sony cd-I portable?
Do you have any suggestions for a meter that reads mF uF without breaking the bank?
I don't have to mess with caps often but it would be nice to have a meter for when I do.
Are the AV/power modules completely interchangeable? I have an Alps module from a rev 10 board. I de-soldered it and replaced all the capacitors, and soldered it on to a different board that originally had a Mitsumi module and it still doesn't work. Before, it had a blinking light, as I tried to clean the 72 pin connector, the blinking sped up but I couldn't get a picture. Now I don't even get power. Any ideas?
Yes they are all interchangeable as far as I know. I did lots of other troubleshooting vids with the top loader that might point you in the right direction for your issue. Too hard to diagnose via messages.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into it.
10:30 on your LCD TV there is vertical lines. I was seeing those on a NES I am working on as well using an LCD. Is this normal?
I would love to swap a working board for a pre-set up HiDefNES board!
I look forward to seeing the desoldering and testing
Would love to see Part 2.
Or if they do want to wrap it entirely... Clingwrap? Not even adhesive. It'd work well I think.
my other NES's PPU is broken, i think. is there any way to tell for sure?
i heard you say bad video ram, perhaps thats my issue instead. im not sure
Which front loader board revisions are rare(er)?
NES-CPU-05, they're the earliest ones and are the best kind because they have great composite video output and the 10NES chips on them are more easily defeated by unlicensed games compared to later boards, so it's more likely for all unlicensed games with lockout chip defeat circuitry to play on the CPU-05.
Greetings from Russia! Love your videos, thanks and good luck!
Quick question i just had a nes with a flashing green screen i cleaned the whole console and disabled the 10 Nest chip what does it mean what does the green screen mean
A burned rectifier will not transmit current. That's the only scenario where passing in DC instead of AC will not work. DC input on a 7805, loves it, it doesn't care. A 9V battery should do the trick.
OK, HELP. I bought the rebuild kit and the cap kit. Perfect video. Plug in the audio rca and vid dies for good. Coax (the one that needs the grey inline box) still works. SECOND MACHINE THIS HAPPENS TO! Is there a fix or im stuck with fuzzy vid from vhf ish method?
Hello
Wondered if you do mods? Or still do mods? Or if youd work on an nes?
You should use a box cutter to cut it open then you can easily reuse the bubble wrap ....
i'm looking to convert my pal nes to ntsc and i need a pair of CPU PPU, i know a website that use to sell them at a pretty fair price but they have not been in stock for ages.. maybe i should buy some junk famicoms or something..
That was a fun 35 minutes.
Hey man do you repair Original Xbox consoles? I have 2 that are broken maybe you can help me please???
The Classic Gamer Dude red ring?
Well i cn't wait to see your upcoming video to fix those motherboards.
While in most cases there're only minor issues,but sadly 1 is corroded here & there and sanded there wich gonne be really really hard to repair ,probably not worth unless it's a rare unique motherboard.
But you can alway's swap those chips unless they're sadly fryed dead!!!!
Hello Friend!! congratulations for your work!!! Do you have a Sega Genesis CDX in perfect working conditions perfectly to sell ??
Do you sell the lockout chip?
Lol
???
I thought it was a joke. Don't tell me you're another one of those people that want the lockout chip intact? Ugh. It's better off non-functional in my opinion.
No, I don't care about its integrity but sometime there are boards totally without that chip and fixing that problem change from board to board. I don't know how it works for a Mattel version, so the lockout chip (any version) without the fourth pin would solve the problem immidiately.
Ah ok, my mistake. You're right, the chip does need to still be there, just have pin 4 cut. So it's not even present at all on the Mattel version? I remember there was a multi-cart with a CIC chip in it that says it does not work on the Mattel version of the NES. Is it because there's no lockout chip on it? Is there an empty socket for where it's supposed to go?
The Bubble wrap is also static full....
and tape itself generated tons of static when it was wrapped + can generate more when ripping off.
Peeling Sticky Tape Produces X-rays, Im always worried when I receive chinese electronic junk wrapped in tons of tape :(
Bubble wrap is not full of static, it's simply not static proof from us humans. Just simply touch a grounded piece of metal (like a metal PC case) before handling circuit boards and also avoid standing on carpets.
Sadly, at 7:08 my ears started bleeding :(
Next time i'll use painters tape. :P
i need a loose mother board
There's a joke there somewhere.
Joe Snes why would there be i have a nes with no board
why would you suspect a coiled up piece of wire, makes no sense
review tech usa brother
unhappy if packed bad, unhappy if packed good...it's bubble wrap go spend a dollar and buy it lol
Try scissors ;)
First